Canada (part-4)

BUDGET

The park has three Parks Canada vehicle-accessible campgrounds, none of which take reservations. Backcountry campsites are limited and should be reserved through the visitor center.

Crandell Mountain Campground (Red Rock Pkwy; tent & RV sites $21; mid-May–Sep; ) For a more rustic camping experience, head out to this secluded camping spot a few minutes’ drive from the park gates. Expect to see wildlife among the wildflower-choked meadows, birds riding the thermal updrafts and postcard views of the surrounding peaks. Even if you aren’t staying out this way, the drive along the Red Rock Parkway is spectacular and well worth the trip.

Waterton Townsite Campground (Hwy 5; tent & RV sites from $26; mid-May–mid-Oct; ) Dominating the southern end of Waterton village, the town campground isn’t ideal, but it’s a means to an end. Consisting mainly of an enormous gopher hole–infested field aimed at RVers, it has all the charm of a camping area at a music festival. There are some treed sites near the edges, but by mid-summer you’ll be lucky to get anything. Book ahead for this one.

HI-Waterton (403-859-2151, 888-985-6343; http://www.hihostels.ca; Cameron Falls Dr at Windflower Ave; dm from $31, r from $93, mid-May–Nov; ) If you want a cheap place to stay in the park that isn’t under canvas, the hostel is your sole option. Small dorms that sleep four weary travelers are clean and come with adjoining bathrooms, and there is a small communal kitchen.

MIDRANGE & TOP END

Crandell Mountain Lodge (403-859-2288; www.cradellmountainlodge.com; Mount View Rd; r from $130; ) Just as you enter town and slightly out of the action, this small hotel has a nice feel to it. Small rooms contrast with a big deck out front. Check out the Bear’s Den themed room, a real mountain man honeymoon suite complete with rough timber bed and Jacuzzi.

Kilmorey Lodge (403-859-2334; www.kilmoreylodge.com; 117 Evergreen Ave; r from $130; ) For over 70 years, Kilmorey has been taking guests and is still sans TV. Antique-filled rooms are all individually dressed and full of character, the friendly staff is a bonus and the winding steps to the upstairs rooms are a great workout.

Bayshore Inn (403-859-2211, 888-527-9555; www.bayshoreinn.com; 111 Waterton Ave; r $164; Apr–mid-Oct; ) Taking the prize as the biggest hotel in the downtown area, the Bayshore is nothing if not centrally located. With rooms that back right onto the lake and only a couple of steps away from the shops, this is a popular option. The lake views are great, but be sure to book early if you want to see them.

Waterton Glacier Suites (403-859-2004, 866-621-3330; www.watertonsuites.com; 107 Windflower Ave; r from $190; wi-fi) With amenities aplenty, these suites have two fireplaces, whirlpool tubs, microwaves and fridges. The rooms are spotless and the rock-and-log exterior looks the part, too. It’s open all year round – come winter you’ll appreciate those dual fireplaces.

Prince of Wales Hotel (in season 403-859-2231, other times 406-756-2444; www.princeofwaleswaterton.com; Prince of Wales Rd; r from $265; mid-May–Sep; ) You can’t come to Waterton and not check out this iconic alpine landmark. Situated to take full advantage of the best view in town, this hotel is nothing short of spectacular. When seen from a distance, the serene scene is perhaps the most photogenic in all the Canadian Rockies. Up close, the old girl is starting to show her age but she is aging like a fine wine. The grand lobby is illuminated with a chandelier worthy of a Scottish castle and the elevator is the oldest working example in North America. The rooms are small but retain the classic feel of this historic hotel. Antique porcelain in the bathrooms and views that are worth every penny.

Eating

Big Scoop Ice Cream (403-859-2346; Main St; ice cream $3-5; 10am-10pm) No matter what you did today you’ve earned one of these decadent ice creams. With heaps of flavors to choose from and scoops the size of bowling balls, it’s the place to be on a warm day.

Lamp Post (403-859-2334; 117 Evergreen Ave; mains $7-37; 7:30am-10pm) A Waterton institution and the nicest place in town to grab a bite. Seafood, pasta and game dominate the menu that’s large enough to please most tastes. Go for the buffalo tenderloin – the whiskey, berry and chocolate sauce gives it a zing that the home on the range never even considered.

Pizza of Waterton (403-859-2660; 103 Fountain Ave; mains from $13; noon-midnight) Locals flock to this converted house for, not surprisingly, delectable pizzas. The chilled-out atmosphere makes everyone feel at home as they tuck into a great meal among the mountains.

Drinking & Entertainment

Thirsty Bear Saloon (403-859-2111; Main St) The great melting pot of the only bar in town. Visitors and townsfolk mix together and groove to the thumping tunes. There’s a pool table and a reasonably sized dance floor to really get to know the local crew. It heats up after 10pm.

Getting There & Away

Waterton lies in Alberta’s southwestern corner, 130km from Lethbridge and 156km from Calgary. The one road entrance into the park is in its northeast corner along Hwy 5. Most visitors coming from Glacier and the USA reach the junction with Hwy 5 via Hwy 6 (Chief Mountain International Hwy) from the southeast. From Calgary, to the north, Hwy 2 shoots south toward Hwy 5 into the park. From the east, Hwy 5, through Cardston, heads west and then south into the park.


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CROWSNEST PASS

West of Fort Macleod the Crowsnest Hwy (Hwy 3) heads through the prairies and into the Rocky Mountains to Crowsnest Pass (1396m) and the British Columbian border. The Pass, as it’s known, is a string of small communities just to the east of the BC border. Of note is the story of the town of Frank. In 1903, Frank was almost completely buried when 30 million cubic meters (some 82 million tons worth) of nearby Turtle Mountain collapsed and killed around 70 people. The coal mine dug into the base of the mountain was to blame, some say. But the mining didn’t stop; this black gold was the ticket to fortune for the entire region some hundred years ago. Eventually the demand for coal decreased, and after yet more tragedy below the earth, the mines shut down for good.

Frank Slide Interpretive Centre (403-562-7388; www.frankslide.com; adult/child $6.50/3; 9am-5pm), 1.5km off Hwy 3 and 27km east of the BC border, overlooks the Crowsnest Valley. It’s an excellent interpretive center that helps put a human face on the tragedy of the Frank landslide, with many interesting displays about mining, the railroad and the early days of this area. There’s also a fantastic film dramatizing the tragic events of 1903. Most of the staff can trace their roots to the area and thus the slide.


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NORTHERN ALBERTA

Hello? Is anyone out there? You may find yourself saying that a fair bit in the northern section of Alberta. Once you travel north of Edmonton, the population drops right off and the sense of remoteness is a tangible feeling.

If it’s solitude you seek, then this is paradise found. Endless stretches of pine forests seem to go on forever, nighttime brings aurora borealis displays that are better than any chemical hallucinogens you’ll ever find, and it is here you can still see herds of buffalo.

This is also where the engine room of the Alberta economy lives. The oil sands near Fort McMurray are one of the largest oil reserves in the world. This helps to import workers from every corner of Canada and export oil earning the province millions of dollars – per hour.

The Cree, Slavey and Dene were the first peoples to inhabit the region, and many of them still depend on fishing, hunting and trapping for survival. The northeast has virtually no roads and is dominated by Wood Buffalo National Park, the Athabasca River and Lake Athabasca. The northwest is more accessible, with a network of highways connecting Alberta with northern BC and the Northwest Territories.

PEACE RIVER & AROUND

If it’s Alaska you seek, then this is the way to go. Heading northwest along Hwy 43 leads to the town of Dawson Creek, BC, and mile zero of the Alaska Hwy. Dawson is a whopping 590km from Edmonton, so it’s a long way to go to check out this isolated section of northern Alberta. Along the way you’ll pass through Grande Prairie, the base of operations for the local agricultural industry and home to chuckwagon legend Kelly Sutherland (Click here). If you decide to spend the night, most of the accommodations are centered on 100th St and 100th Ave.

Peace River is so named because the warring Cree and Beaver Indians made peace along its banks. The town of Peace River sits at the confluence of the Heart, Peace and Smoky Rivers. It has several motels and two campgrounds. Greyhound Canada buses leave daily for the Yukon and NWT. West out of town, Hwy 2 leads to the Mackenzie Hwy.


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MACKENZIE HIGHWAY

The small town of Grimshaw is the official starting point of the Mackenzie Hwy (Hwy 35) north to the NWT. There’s not much here except for the mile-zero sign and a few shops. The relatively flat and straight road is paved for the most part, though there are stretches of loose gravel or earth where the road is being reconstructed.

The mainly agricultural landscape between Grimshaw and Manning gives way to endless stretches of spruce and pine forest. Come prepared as this is frontier territory and services become fewer (and more expensive) as the road cuts northward through the wilderness. A good basic rule is to fill your tank any time you see a gas station from here north.

High Level, the last settlement of any size before the NWT border, is a center for the timber industry. Workers often stay in the motels in town during the week. The only service station between High Level and Enterprise (in the NWT) is at Indian Cabins.


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LAKE DISTRICT

From St Paul, more than 200km northeast of Edmonton, to the NWT border lies Alberta’s immense lake district. Fishing is popular (even in winter, when there is ice-fishing) but many of the lakes, especially further north, have no road access and you have to fly in.

St Paul is the place to go if you are looking for little green people. The flying-saucer landing pad, which is still awaiting its first customer, is open for business. Residents built the 12m-high circular landing pad in 1967 as part of a centennial project and as a stunt to try to generate tourism (it’s billed as the world’s largest, and only, UFO landing pad) to the remote region. It worked: UFO enthusiasts have been visiting ever since.

Highway 63 is the main route into the province’s northeastern wilderness interior. The highway, with a few small settlements and campgrounds on the way, leads to Fort McMurray, which is 439km north of Edmonton. Originally a fur-trading outpost, it is now home to one of the world’s largest oilfields. The town is pretty rough and the accommodations are aimed at unhoused oilfield workers, so it’s not really a prime holiday spot. The story of how crude oil is extracted from the vast tracts of sand is told at the Oil Sands Discovery Centre (780-743-7167; junction of Hwy 63 & MacKenzie Blvd; adult/child $3/2; 9am-5pm mid-May–early Sep, 10am-4pm Tue-Sun early Sep–mid-May).


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WOOD BUFFALO NATIONAL PARK

This huge park is best accessed from Fort Smith in the NWT. For more information, Click here.

In Alberta, the only access is via air to Fort Chipewyan. In winter, an ice road leads north to Peace Point (which connects to Fort Smith), and another road links the park to Fort McMurray.




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British Columbia





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VANCOUVER

HISTORY

ORIENTATION

INFORMATION

DANGERS & ANNOYANCES

SIGHTS

ACTIVITIES

WALKING TOUR

VANCOUVER FOR CHILDREN

OFFBEAT VANCOUVER

TOURS

FESTIVALS & EVENTS

SLEEPING

EATING

DRINKING

ENTERTAINMENT

SHOPPING

GETTING THERE & AWAY

GETTING AROUND

LOWER MAINLAND

NORTH VANCOUVER

WEST VANCOUVER

HORSESHOE BAY & BOWEN ISLAND

BURNABY

RICHMOND

STEVESTON

Fort Langley

SEA TO SKY HIGHWAY

SQUAMISH & AROUND

GARIBALDI PROVINCIAL PARK

BRANDYWINE FALLS PROVINCIAL PARK

WHISTLER

ORIENTATION & INFORMATION

ACTIVITIES

FESTIVALS & EVENTS

SLEEPING

EATING

DRINKING & ENTERTAINMENT

GETTING THERE & AROUND

SUNSHINE COAST

GIBSONS

ROBERTS CREEK

SECHELT

POWELL RIVER

VANCOUVER ISLAND

VICTORIA

SOUTHERN VANCOUVER ISLAND

COWICHAN VALLEY

NANAIMO

OCEANSIDE & AROUND

PORT ALBERNI

PACIFIC RIM NATIONAL PARK RESERVE

TOFINO & AROUND

UCLUELET

DENMAN & HORNBY ISLANDS

COMOX VALLEY

CAMPBELL RIVER

QUADRA & CORTES ISLANDS

STRATHCONA PROVINCIAL PARK

GOLD RIVER

NORTH VANCOUVER ISLAND

SOUTHERN GULF ISLANDS

SALT SPRING ISLAND

NORTH & SOUTH PENDER ISLANDS

SATURNA ISLAND

MAYNE ISLAND

GALIANO ISLAND

FRASER & THOMPSON VALLEYS

EC MANNING PROVINCIAL PARK

FRASER RIVER CANYON

KAMLOOPS

AROUND KAMLOOPS

OKANAGAN VALLEY

OSOYOOS

AROUND OSOYOOS

OLIVER

OLIVER TO PENTICTON

PENTICTON

KELOWNA

BIG WHITE SKI RESORT

VERNON

NORTH OF VERNON

THE KOOTENAYS & THE ROCKIES

REVELSTOKE

MT REVELSTOKE NATIONAL PARK

GLACIER NATIONAL PARK

GOLDEN

YOHO NATIONAL PARK

MT ASSINIBOINE PROVINCIAL PARK

KOOTENAY NATIONAL PARK

RADIUM HOT SPRINGS

RADIUM HOT SPRINGS TO FERNIE

FERNIE

KIMBERLEY

CRANBROOK

CRANBROOK TO ROSSLAND

ROSSLAND

NELSON

NELSON TO REVELSTOKE

CARIBOO, CHILCOTIN & COAST

WILLIAMS LAKE TO PRINCE GEORGE

BARKERVILLE & AROUND

BOWRON LAKE PROVINCIAL PARK

WELLS GRAY PROVINCIAL PARK

CHILCOTIN: HIGHWAY 20

BELLA COOLA VALLEY

THE NORTH

PRINCE RUPERT

QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS (HAIDA GWAII)

PRINCE RUPERT TO PRINCE GEORGE

PRINCE GEORGE

PRINCE GEORGE TO ALBERTA

STEWART-CASSIAR HIGHWAY

ALASKA HIGHWAY



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Canada’s third-largest province; bigger than any US state except Alaska; more than four times the area of the UK: it’s not hard to find superlatives about the vastness of British Columbia. But although visitors are moved by the sheer enormity of the towering mountains, dense forests and uncountable kilometers of crenulated coastline, it’s often the smaller details that make a trip here magical. From Zen-calm ferries sliding across glassy inlets to quirky island communities, where fresh-caught seafood beats five-star restaurants, BC is much more than Canada’s most scenic province. History fans can indulge in some fascinating aboriginal and colonial heritage, while outdoors types can enjoy a whale- or bear-watching trek.



Challenging the province’s nature-hugging tag, cosmopolitan Vancouver is a fascinating mélange of international fusion, mixing cuisines and cultures from Asia and beyond, while vibrant smaller communities like Victoria and Kelowna are increasingly driven by their student-backed populations, ensuring they don’t just rely on the past.



With the 2010 Olympic and Paralympic Winter Games just around the corner, it’s worth recalling that BC has also long been a hotbed of activity. Olympic co-host Whistler is a world-renowned ski and snowboarding resort; Vancouver Island’s west coast is a surf dudes’ capital; and hikers, cyclists and kayakers can be kept blissfully occupied around the region for weeks.



But the province’s jewel-like natural setting will frame everything you do here. Adjust your camera setting to вЂ˜panoramic’ and shoot life-enhancing images of snow-crowned mountains, shimmering lakes, sparkling waterfalls, lush rain forests and tree-covered islands. And when you finally return home, you’ll remember just what Mother Nature is all about.



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HIGHLIGHTS



Stretch your legs with a seawall stroll around Vancouver’s Stanley Park and stop for a picnic at Third Beach

Scoff lip-smacking Asian hawker food at the summertime Richmond Night Market and come away with some spicy takeout

Ski the slopes at Whistler and enjoy a warming aprГЁs beverage while you rub your aching muscles

Sample some fruity tipples on an impromptu Okanagan Valley winery tour

Drink in the wild, untamed beauty of Cape Scott Provincial Park on Vancouver Island’s remote northern tip

Explore the ancient and ethereal rainforest of the Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve and kayak the coastline for a fish-eye view of the region





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History

Setting up camp here at least 15,000 years ago, BC’s Aboriginal settlers likely arrived from Asia via a land bridge across the Bering Strait. With abundant animal, marine and plant life available, coastal tribes like the Haida and Nisga’a thrived, developing sophisticated cultures and intricate trade networks. Inland, the Salish and Chilcotin people led more nomadic existences, relying on migratory caribou and salmon.

These early civilizations prospered for centuries until avaricious 18th-century European explorers appeared. The Russians and Spanish sailed in first, followed in 1778 by Britain’s Captain James Cook. He sparked a stampede of вЂ˜fur prospectors’ from the Old World and, by the 1820s, the Hudson’s Bay Company – still around today – was operating fortified trading posts across the region. A few years later, Britain declared Vancouver Island a crown colony.

The discovery of Fraser River gold in 1858 resulted in a massive new wave of European and American economic migration, with thousands arriving in search of instant fortunes. Britain swiftly claimed the rest of the province, naming riverfront New Westminster as capital. After the gold rush lost its shine, many of these speculators stayed to form permanent settlements.

Uniting mainland BC and Vancouver Island in 1866, the Brits named Victoria as their new regional capital. Five years later, the fledgling province joined Canada, agreeing to confederation on condition that a railroad be extended from the east. The first trans-Canada train chugged across to the west coast in 1886.

While BC lumber soon began flowing across the world, fuelling the region’s growth for the next few decades, WWI and the Wall Street Crash triggered a slow and protracted depression in the province. Prosperity only returned when WWII sparked shipbuilding and armaments manufacturing, diversifying the economy away from logging.

By the 1990s, global tourism and Asian migration had become major influences on the regional balance sheet, with Vancouver particularly enjoying a huge surge in development. A second development peak was triggered when the city won hosting rights to the 2010 Olympic and Paralympic Winter Games. It’s a boom mirrored across the province, with projects mushrooming in communities from Prince Rupert to Port Alberni. The first gold rush may be over, but for BC’s developers the second one is in full swing.

Local Culture

While BC has a strong reputation as a hardy outdoor wonderland, not everyone here kayaks to work and hikes to the shops on the weekend. While Vancouver is as urban and consumer-oriented as any city, it has a world-fusion culture that’s driven by an impressively international population. Outside this metropolis, though, less cosmopolitan cities like Victoria and Kelowna combine healthy lifestyles with an artsy focus and a decidedly laid-back feel.

Beyond the main population concentrations, communities throughout the province – from waterfront Prince Rupert to the quirky Sunshine Coast and remote North Vancouver Island – often have a singular, independent spirit: you don’t have to live on an island to have an island mentality in BC. And alongside all this pioneer-like fortitude, the First Nations – with a far longer presence in the area than anyone else – remain a strong foundation. Almost wiped out by colonization, the region’s Aboriginal communities have enjoyed a cultural renaissance in recent years, often driven by the curiosity of visitors who want to find out more about these ancient, intriguing people.



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BRITISH COLUMBIA FACTS



Population 4.11 million

Area 944,735 sq km

Provincial capital Victoria

Nickname Beautiful BC

Birthplace of Emily Carr (1871–1945), Terry Fox (1958–1981), Douglas Coupland (b 1961) Pamela Anderson (b 1967).

Home to Hollywood North, World’s Largest Hockey Stick, 2010 Olympic and Paralympic Winter Games.

Best beer Hermann’s Dark Lager from Vancouver Island Brewing.





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Whether your visit brings you to the heart of bustling cities or to remote villages with just a few dozen locals, you’re almost guaranteed a warm welcome. BC residents are proud of their beautiful region; they will offer you an instant list of must-see places (some will likely take you there themselves) and – especially in smaller settlements – they may well invite you to grab a beer with them or join in at the next community event. If you’re invited to a pancake breakfast, one-day street festival or local BC Day celebration, don’t turn it down: scoffing or supping with the locals is the best way to find out what really makes this province tick.





Land & Climate

Rural BC can justly claim to be one of the world’s great natural wonders; an immense wilderness of verdant forests, craggy peaks and remote islands that can easily overwhelm city slickers. Prominent features include at least 7000km of crenulated western coastline, the immense Rocky Mountains range shadowing the eastern border, and the mighty Fraser River, which starts in the Rockies and snakes 1400km to the Pacific Ocean near Vancouver.

BC’s varied climate is influenced by latitude, elevation and ocean proximity but it’s generally warmer in the south and cooler in the north. Winters are mild in Vancouver and Victoria, with only brief snowfalls, while other regions – especially the north and the interior – are subject to freezing temperatures and heavy snow from November to March.

Spring and fall are often warm and pleasant but rainfall can be heavy, particularly on the coast. Summers (June to September) are mostly dry and sunny with warm temperatures, but the interior is hot in July and August, with temperatures surpassing 30В°C. Check www.weatheroffice.pyr.ec.gc.ca for online forecasts.

Parks & Wildlife

For many visitors, BC is a rugged wilderness paradise. Its seven national parks include snow-capped Glacier and the Unesco World Heritage sites of Kootenay and Yoho. The newer Gulf Islands National Park Reserve protects a fragile coastal region. Contact Parks Canada (888-773-8888; www.pc.gc.ca) for more information.

The region’s 850 provincial parks offer 3000km of hiking trails and many have great visitor facilities. Notables include Strathcona and remote Cape Scott on Vancouver Island, as well as the Cariboo’s canoe-friendly Bowron Lake and the Kootenays’ Matterhorn-like Mt Assiniboine. Check the BC Parks (www.bcparks.ca) website for information.



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BRITISH COLUMBIA ITINERARIES

Three Days

After fully exploring the cosmopolitan sights and sounds of downtown Vancouver, hop in the car, via Hwys 99 and 17, to the Tsawwassen ferry terminal and enjoy a languid boat trek to Swartz Bay on Vancouver Island. Roll-off and continue your drive to Victoria, spending an overnight exploring the pretty capital and its landmark buildings. Next day, drive north up the island on Hwy 1, stopping off at Chemainus, a former logging settlement that’s reinvented itself as an вЂ˜art town.’ Continue north for a late lunch and an overnight in Nanaimo then, next morning, catch the ferry back to the mainland’s Horseshoe Bay terminal. It’s a short drive from here back to your Vancouver starting point.



One Week

Follow the three-day itinerary to Nanaimo then continue north on Hwy 19 to the quaint seaside towns of Qualicum Beach and Parksville. Drive on to Comox and take a ferry back to the mainland, arriving at Powell River on the Sunshine Coast. Wind south along the coast and forest road here, taking a short-hop ferry at Earl’s Cove to continue your drive, and stopping off at quirky communities like Sechelt and Roberts Creek along the way. Save time to wander around the charming waterfront village of Gibsons, before boarding the 45-minute ferry back to Horseshoe Bay near West Vancouver. If there’s no need to hurry back downtown, take a short diversion to North Vancouver and the nature-hugging Grouse Mountain and Capilano Suspension Bridge attractions.



In the Wild North

Northern BC’s coast is a raw and wonderful place where you’ll shrink in significance next to the forces and beauty of nature. Begin at surprising Prince Rupert, with its cultural attractions that bring this rugged land, pounding sea and intense culture to life. Then take the ferry out to Haida Gwaii, also known as the Queen Charlotte Islands, home of totem poles, lost villages, enormous cedars, amazing kayaking and the resurgent culture of the Haida people. Finally, return to Prince Rupert and drive four hours north to tiny Stewart. As you near this remote outpost, you’ll pass all manner of bear, moose and roadside glaciers. Cross over to the adjoining and idiosyncratic village of Hyder, Alaska, where it’s a short drive to the Salmon Glacier, a vast and jaw-dropping icefield that covers the region and gives the air a permanent chill as it pushes mountains aside.





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Camping, kayaking, skiing and mountaineering are popular park activities and you’ll also likely spot some amazing wildlife. Plucked from more than 500 indigenous fowl, the black-and-blue Steller’s jay is BC’s provincial bird. Ocean visitors should keep an eye out for Pacific gray whales, while BC’s large mammals – including elk, moose, wolves, grizzlies and black bear – will have most scrambling for their cameras.

Information

Tourism BC (250-387-1642, 800-435-5622; www.hellobc.com) is a valuable initial resource for anyone planning a trip to the province. Its website has maps, transportation information and blogs from far-flung regions, as well as attractions listings and an accommodations booking engine.

Getting There & Around

See town and city listings for specific information on getting to and around the province. Check the Transportation chapter Click here for general information.

Most travelers arrive via Vancouver International Airport, with smaller gateway airports like Victoria and Kelowna servicing domestic and US routes. Click here for more details.

Driving – from across Canada or via the US border – is also popular, although US border crossings often have weekend and holiday queues. The province’s Ministry of Transportation runs a handy website called Drive BC (www.drivebc.ca) where you can check regional road conditions before you set off on a trek.

Greyhound Canada buses arrive in BC from across Canada, with US services connecting via Vancouver. US Amtrak trains arrive in Vancouver via Seattle, while homegrown VIA Rail locomotives trundle into the province from Alberta and points east.

Travelers are well-served within BC by planes and long-distance bus routes, while the BC Ferries (250-386-3431, 888-223-3779; www.bcferries.com) network plies the province’s waters. Driving is the best way to reach many far-flung areas. Some regional road distances:



Kamloops to Vancouver 355km

Prince George to Prince Rupert 772km

Vancouver to Victoria (via BC Ferries) 110km




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VANCOUVER

pop 578,000

It’s Western Canada’s largest city, a magnet for 8.7 million annual visitors and host of the 2010 Olympic and Paralympic Winter Games, but Vancouver is best known around the world as a utopia of laid-back joie de vivre ringed by dense waterfront forest and looming snow-topped mountains. But while the visual appeal is undeniable, there’s much more to this glass-towered metropolis than meets the eye.

Although international studies often put the city at the top of those infamous вЂ˜best places to live’ rankings, hand-wringing locals frequently ask themselves whether or not Vancouver really is world-class. The solution to this conundrum is not to make futile comparisons with older, larger and more heavily populated capitals like London or Paris but to search for what makes this particular city tick. Luckily, Vancouver turns out to be a delight for travelers hungry to combine outdoor pursuits with a little urban exploration.

Circumnavigating Stanley Park’s sea-to-sky vistas, straining your neck as you stroll among ancient Douglas fir trees, skiing atop a mountain overlooking the downtown sprawl and kayaking along the crenulated coastline with its glimpses of mirrored tower blocks are activities most city dwellers can usually only dream of. And for downtown wanderers who like dipping into heart-and-soul neighborhoods, Vancouver is an urban adventurer’s delight.

From the student-chic shopping district of SoMa to the yoga-ready former hippy community of Kits, from the loft-living yuppies of Yaletown to the bohemian coffee-suppers of Commercial Dr; and from the gay-friendly streets of the West End to the clamorous thoroughfares of Chinatown, the city is a smorgasbord of explorable areas, all easily accessible to visitors and best encountered on foot.

This diversity is Vancouver’s main strength and a major reason why some visitors keep coming back for more. If you’re a first-timer, soak in the breathtaking vistas and hit the verdant forests whenever you can, but also save time to join the locals and do a little exploring off the beaten track; it’s in these places that you’ll discover what really makes this beautiful metropolis special.

HISTORY

Historians claim that First Nations people thrived in this area for as long as 16,000 years before Spanish explorers arrived and claimed the region in the late 1500s. When Captain George Vancouver of the British Royal Navy sailed up in 1792, he met a couple of Spanish captains who informed him of their country’s longstanding claim. But although the beach they met on is now called Spanish Banks, it was Britain’s desire for the area that eventually won out; by the early 1800s, as settlers began to arrive from Europe, the British crown had an increasing stranglehold.

A burgeoning fur trade, accompanied by a feverish gold rush, soon redefined the west coast as a resource-filled Aladdin’s cave. By the 1850s thousands of fortune seekers had arrived, prompting the Brits to officially claim the area as a colony. Local entrepreneur вЂ˜Gassy’ Jack Deighton seized the initiative in 1867 by opening a bar on the forested shores of Burrard Inlet. This triggered a rash of development nicknamed вЂ˜Gastown’ that became the forerunner of modern-day Vancouver.

But not everything went to plan for the fledgling city. While Vancouver rapidly reached a population of 1000, its buildings were almost completely destroyed in an 1886 blaze – quickly dubbed the Great Fire, even though it only lasted 20 minutes. A prompt rebuild followed and the new downtown core soon took shape. Buildings from this era still survive, as does Stanley Park. Originally the town’s military reserve, it was opened as a public recreation area in 1891.





Relying on its port, the growing city quickly became a hub of industry, importing thousands of immigrant workers to fuel its economic development. The Chinatown built at this time is one of the largest and most historic in North America. But WWI and the 1929 Wall Street Crash brought deep depression and mass unemployment. The economy only recovered during WWII, when both shipbuilding and armaments manufacturing added to the traditional economic base of resource exploitation.

Growing steadily throughout the 1950s and 1960s, Vancouver added an NHL (National Hockey League) team and other accoutrements of a mid-sized North American city. Finally reflecting on its heritage, Gastown – by now a slum – was saved for gentrification in the 1970s, becoming a popular history-flavored tourist area.

In 1986 the city hosted a highly successful Expo world’s fair, sparking a massive wave of new development and adding the first of the mirrored skyscrapers that now define Vancouver’s downtown core. It’s anticipated that the 2010 Olympic and Paralympic Winter Games will have a similar positive effect on the region.


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ORIENTATION

Downtown Vancouver occupies a narrow peninsula bounded on three sides by Burrard Inlet, English Bay and False Creek, with Stanley Park at the tip. Key downtown attractions and neighborhoods are all easily accessible on foot and streets are organized on an easy-to-follow grid system. Robson St and Georgia St are the main downtown east–west thoroughfares, while Granville St is the main north–south artery.


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INFORMATION



Bookstores



Barbara-Jo’s Books to Cooks (Map; 604-688-6755; 1740 W 2nd Ave; 9:30am-5pm Mon-Sat) Foodie bookstore with menu of cooking classes.

Book Warehouse (Map; 604-683-5711; 552 Seymour St; 10am-9pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun) Vancouver’s favorite independent bookseller.

Travel Bug (Map; 604-737-1122; 3065 W Broadway; 10am-6pm Mon-Wed & Sat, 10am-7:30pm Thu & Fri, noon-5pm Sun) Extensive travel guides, maps and accessories.



Internet Access



Electric Internet CafГ© (Map; 604-681-0667; 605 W Pender St; per 30min $1.50; 7am-3am Mon-Fri, 8am-3am Sat & Sun) Dozens of terminals plus good food specials.

Star Internet CafГ© (Map; 604-685-4645; 1690 Robson St; per hr $2; 10am-11pm) Favored haunt of online gamers.

Vancouver Public Library (Map; 604-331-3600; 350 W Georgia St; free; 10am-9pm Mon-Thu, 10am-6pm Fri & Sat, noon-5pm Sun) Maximum 30 mins, with limited terminals for nonmembers.





Media & Internet Resources



CKNW 980 AM (www.cknw.com) News, traffic and talk radio station.

Discover Vancouver (www.discovervancouver.com) General online visitors guide.

Georgia Straight (www.straight.com) Free listings newspaper.

Tourism Vancouver (www.tourismvancouver.com) Official online visitor site with downloadable maps.

Tyee (www.thetyee.ca) Local online news source.

Vancouver 2010 (www.vancouver2010.com) Official online info for 2010 Winter Olympics.

Vancouver Magazine (www.vanmag.com) Glossy local trend mag.

Vancouver Sun (www.vancouversun.com) City’s main daily newspaper.



Medical Services



Shoppers Drug Mart (Map; 604-669-2424; 1125 Davie St; 24hr) Pharmacy chain.

St Paul’s Hospital (Map; 604-682-2344; 1081 Burrard St; 24hr) Downtown accident and emergency.

Ultima Medicentre Plus (Map; 604-683-8138; Bentall Centre, 1055 Dunsmuir St; 8am-5pm Mon-Fri) Walk-in clinic, appointments unnecessary.



Money

ATMs abound in Vancouver with bank branches congregating around the business district bordered by Burrard, Georgia, Pender and Granville Sts.



American Express (Map; 604-669-2813; 666 Burrard St; 8:30am-5:30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat) Full-service Amex branch.

Vancouver Bullion & Currency Exchange (Map; 604-685-1008; 800 W Pender St; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri) Best exchange rates in town.



Post

Postal outlets are often tucked at the back of drugstores – look for the blue and red signs.



Canada Post Main Outlet (Map; 604-662-5723, 349 W Georgia St; 8am-5:30pm Mon-Fri)

Georgia Post Plus (Map; 604-632-4226; 1358 W Georgia St; 9:30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat)

Howe Street Postal Outlet (Map; 604-688- 2068; 732 Davie St; 7am-8pm Mon-Fri, 8am-7pm Sat)



Tourist Information



Tourism Vancouver Tourist Info Centre (Map; 604-683-2000; www.tourismvancouver.com; 200 Burrard St; 8:30am-6pm Jun-Aug, 8:30am-5pm Mon-Sat Sep-May) Free maps, city and wider BC visitor guides, automated currency exchange and a half-price theater ticket booth. Also has an outlet at the airport.




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DANGERS & ANNOYANCES

Persistent street begging is an increasing issue for visitors; just say вЂ˜Sorry’ and pass on if you’re not interested. In the city’s Downtown Eastside area – a depressing ghetto of lives wasted by drugs and prostitution – crime against visitors is not common but you are advised to be vigilant and stick to the main streets.


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SIGHTS

Vancouver’s most popular attractions are in several easily walkable neighborhoods, especially hotspots like Gastown, Chinatown, Stanley Park and Granville Island. Chichi Yaletown attracts hipster window-shoppers, while the real bohemians are more likely to be found cruising Commercial Dr or South Main (SoMa). Laid-back Kitsilano enjoys great beach access and leads out towards the tree-lined University of British Columbia (UBC) campus, a minitown on its own.

Downtown

Bordered by water to the north and south and Stanley Park to the west, downtown Vancouver combines shimmering glass apartment and business towers with the shop-lined attractions of Robson St, the city’s central promenade.

Once a disappointing regional gallery with nothing more than a clutch of Emily Carr canvases to recommend it, the Vancouver Art Gallery (Map; 604-662-4719; www.vanartgallery.bc.ca; 750 Hornby St; adult/youth/child $19.50/14/6.50, after 5pm Tue admission by donation; 10am-5:30pm, to 9pm Tue & Thu) – housed in an old courthouse but rumored to be moving to a new downtown location soon – has undergone a sweeping renaissance in recent years, becoming a much more vital part of the city’s cultural scene. Combining edgy contemporary exhibitions with blockbuster traveling shows, the gallery comes into its own on select Fridays for FUSE (admission $15), a late-night party with music, performance and chin-stroking arties.

Canada Place (Map; 604-775-7200; www.canadaplace.ca; 999 Canada Place Way) is a legacy of Expo 86 that’s now a convention center and cruise-ship terminal and is like a modern-day pier. This waterfront landmark resembles a series of soaring white sails. It’s worth strolling along its length for some picture-perfect views of Stanley Park and the mountains, punctuated by the regular splash of floatplanes out front. Inside, there’s the CN IMAX Theatre and the kid-friendly Port Authority Interpretation Centre (Map; 604-665-9179; admission free; 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat & Sun), a hands-on exploration of the city’s maritime trade.

With a recent (and long-overdue) renovation, Vancouver Lookout (Map; 604-689-0421; www.vancouverlookout.com; 555 W Hastings St; adult/youth/child $13/9/6; 8:30am-10:30pm May–mid-Oct, 9am-9pm mid-Oct–Apr) is still a pricey way to get a birds-eye view of the city and its environs. Entry includes an optional guided tour of the scenery – that’s Burnaby shimmering in the haze to the east – and your ticket is valid all day so you can return for a twinkly nighttime viewing.



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VANCOUVER ITINERARIES

One Day

Begin with a heaping breakfast at the Templeton before heading to the Vancouver Art Gallery. Next, take a window-shopping stroll along Robson St, then cut down towards the waterfront for some panoramic sea and mountain vistas. Walk west along the seawall, grabbing a coffee along the way, and make for Stanley Park (below). Spend the afternoon exploring the beaches, totem poles and Vancouver Aquarium (below) here before ambling back downtown for dinner.



Two Days

Follow the one-day itinerary then, the next morning, take a taxi to clamorous Chinatown (opposite). Stop at the Millennium Gate (opposite) and duck into the nearby Dr Sun Yat-Sen Classical Chinese Garden. If you’re feeling peckish, head up to Hon’s Wun-Tun House for a dim-sum brunch. Next, stroll along Main St towards Science World then hop on the Sky Train at the nearby station. Head to Waterfront Station and take the scenic SeaBus ride to North Vancouver. On your way back, drop in at Gastown’s Steamwork’s Brewing Co for a beer and pizza.





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The Teflon-domed BC Place Stadium (Map; 604-669-2300; www.bcplacestadium.com; 777 S Pacific Blvd) is home of the BC Lions Canadian Football League (CFL) team Click here and also a 2010 Winter Olympics venue. Sports fans can visit the BC Sports Hall of Fame & Museum (Map; 604-687-5520; www.bcsportshalloffame.com; Gate A; adult/child $10/8; 10am-5pm), complete with regional and national historic memorabilia. There’s also a guided behind-the-scenes stadium tour (604-661-7362; Gate H; adult/child $8/7; 11am & 1pm Tue mid-Jun–Aug).

Christ Church Cathedral (Map; 604-682-3848; www.cathedral.vancouver.bc.ca; 690 Burrard St; admission free; 10am-4pm Mon-Fri), the biggest and best Gothic-style church in the city, is nestled in the shadows of Vancouver’s looming glass towers. Hosting regular choir and organ recitals as well as Shakespeare readings, it offers free tours by appointment. Check out the basement’s lovely William Morris stained-glass window.

Stanley Park

Vancouver’s undoubted highlight is this magnificent edge-of-downtown park (Map) that combines excellent attractions with a mystical natural aura. Don’t miss a jog, stroll or cycle (rentals near the Georgia St entrance) around the seawall – still partly closed on our visit due to a massive storm – and consider a picnic stop at Lumberman’s Arch (off Map) or the sunset-hugging Third Beach (off Map).

If you don’t fancy walking all the way round, a free shuttle bus operates around the park from mid-June to mid-September, or you can take a plodding horse-drawn Carriage Ride (604-681-5115; www.stanleyparktours.com; adult/child $25/15; Mar-Oct). You’ll likely be fighting the tour groups for photos at the eight bright-painted totem poles (off Map) but you might also want to stop off at the nearby artist market for a painterly souvenir of your visit.

After you’ve spotted your first wild park raccoon, it’s worth checking out the Rose Garden (off Map) and Rhododendron Garden (Map) then dropping by Lost Lagoon Nature House (Map; 604-257-6908; www.stanleyparkecology.ca; admission free; 10am-7pm Tue-Sun May-Sep) to learn about the region’s varied ecology. There are also four restaurants in the park if you need a fuel-up.

Those traveling with kids could easily spend a full day in the park. Arrive early and grab your spot at the popular Second Beach swimming pool (Map; 604-257-8370; adult/youth/child $5.35/4/2.65; May-Sep) or drop by the giggle-making water park (off Map; admission free; May-Sep) at Lumberman’s Arch. You can dry the kids off on the Miniature Railway (off Map; 604-257-8531; adult/youth/child $5.50/4/3.75; 10:30am-5pm mid-May–Aug, 10:30am-5pm Sat & Sun Feb–mid-May & Sep) or at the Children’s Farmyard (off Map; 604-257-8531; adult/youth/child $5.50/4/3.75; 11am-4pm mid-May–Aug, 11am-4pm Sat & Sun Feb–mid-May & Sep).

You don’t have to be a kid to enjoy the park’s biggest draw, though. The Vancouver Aquarium (Map; 604-659-3474; www.vanaqua.org; adult/youth/child $19.95/14.95/11.95; 9:30am-5pm Sep-Jun, 9:30am-7pm Jul & Aug) is home to 9000 watery creatures, including sharks, dolphins, beluga whales and Amazonian caimans. Look out for the iridescent jellyfish tank and the two playful sea otter as well as the stroll-through butterfly environment. If you have time, consider a behind-the-scenes trainer tour (from $25).

West End

A dense nest of low-rise older apartment buildings occupying a tangle of well-maintained residential streets, the West End is the city’s chatty heart. Dripping with wooden heritage homes and lined on one side by a clamorous seawall promenade, it has plenty of dining and shopping options and is also the center of Vancouver’s gay community.

Whether it’s a languid early evening in August with buskers, sunbathers and volleyballers sharing the beach, or a cold, blustery day in November with just you and a dog-walker staring at the waves, English Bay (Map; cnr Denman & Davie Sts) is a key West End highlight. Just a few steps from the city bustle and a 10-minute walk from the center of downtown – Stanley Park beckons next door if you also fancy adding a seawall hike – this is the home of the annual Celebration of Light fireworks festival Click here.

For a glimpse of what pioneer town Vancouver looked like before the glass towers, drop by Roedde House Museum (Map; 604-684-7040; www.roeddehouse.org; 1415 Barclay St; admission $5; 10am-5pm Tue-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat, 2-4pm Sun). This handsome 1893 mansion is one of several attractive timber-framed old homes lining Barclay Heritage Sq. It’s packed with period antiques and is a superb recreation of how well-heeled Vancouverites used to live. Sunday entry, including tea and cookies, costs $1 extra.

Yaletown

An old brick-warehouse district transformed into chichi apartments, swanky bars and bling-bling boutiques, pedestrian-friendly Yaletown – Vancouver’s вЂ˜little Soho’ – is where the city’s beautiful people come to be seen, especially at night when the restaurants are often packed with designer-trendies and visiting celebs.

Roughly bordered by Nelson St, Homer St, Drake St and Pacific St, the area has not completely abandoned its grungy industrial past: old railway tracks remain embedded in the roads and the Roundhouse Community Arts & Recreation Centre (Map; 604-713-1800; www.roundhouse.ca; 181 Roundhouse Mews, cnr Davie St & Pacific Blvd), home of eclectic theater productions and cultural events, occupies a revamped train shed complete with a restored steam locomotive.

Check out the Contemporary Art Gallery (Map; 604-681-2700; www.contemporaryartgallery.ca; 555 Nelson St; admission free; noon-6pm Wed-Sun) for a glimpse of what local modern artists are up to. And, if you’re here in October, the annual Taste of Yaletown event offers well-priced three-course tasting menus at area restaurants. The city’s annual Jazz Festival also colonizes the David Lam Park here every July for free outdoor performances. See www.yaletowninfo.com for maps and additional insights on the ’hood.

Gastown & Chinatown

Vancouver’s most historic district, the cobbled streets of Gastown is where the city began – look out for the jaunty bronze of early resident Gassy Jack Deighton teetering on his beer barrel. It’s a former skid row area that’s slowly been restored since the 1970s. The heritage buildings are mostly still here but they now house souvenir shops, popular tourist restaurants and a growing clutch of trendy clothing stores. The landmark hissing steam clock (Map) is halfway along Water St. A snapshot favorite, it’s actually powered by electricity. For local info and events – including the annual Tour de Gastown cycle race – check www.gastown.org.



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WHAT THE…?

Stories abound about Vancouver’s alleged plethora of secret tunnels. Chinatown is said to be crisscrossed with them – road crews sometimes unearth them in the area – and there’s definitely another running from the Canada Post building on W Georgia St. The disused tunnel was once used by mail employees for a subterranean Halloween party.





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The nearby Chinatown – one of North America’s largest – is one of the city’s most enticing areas. An explosion of sight, sound and aromas, this bustling district teems with shops hawking exotic fruits, ancient remedies and the occasional bucket of live frogs. Check out the towering Chinatown Millennium Gate (Map; W Pender &Taylor Sts), the area’s new entry point, and don’t miss the bustling summer night market. For information on area attractions and events – including the two-day summer festival and the annual New Year parade – visit www.vancouverchinatown.ca.



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HOT TOPIC: VANCOUVER’S DOWNTOWN EASTSIDE TRAGEDY

While Vancouver is not the only North American metropolis with a large vagrant population, visitors to what is often described as the world’s most livable city are usually shocked to find themselves accosted by persistent, sometimes aggressive panhandlers. While it’s easy to sneer and dismiss these shuffling beggars, they are indicative of a decades-long failure to come to grips with the city’s biggest social problem.



The issue can be traced back to the creation of Vancouver’s own ghetto in the infamous Downtown Eastside area, frequently described as Canada’s poorest neighborhood. Bordered by Gastown, Chinatown and East Vancouver, the area – once a thriving business district – began its graceless decline in the 1940s, when city and provincial policies started concentrating the destitute here. It’s since become a breeding ground for tragedy, exponentially increasing its population of destitute, vulnerable and mentally disturbed residents.



The area’s squalid rooming houses reside above sketchy pawnshops and dodgy pubs, where the cheapest beer is always the most popular. Drugs are offered openly on the streets – peddlers whisper the words as they pass – and prostitution is a way of life: bone-rack women with heavy make-up loiter in short skirts on even the coldest nights.



With the 2010 Winter Olympics due to throw the international spotlight on Vancouver once again, many locals are asking city, regional and national politicians for a dramatic intervention to address the city’s deepest scar.





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Dr Sun Yat-Sen Classical Chinese Garden (Map; 604-662-3207; www.vancouverchinesegarden.com; 578 Carrall St; adult/child $8.75/7; 10am-6pm May–mid-Jun & Sep, 9:30am-7pm mid-Jun–Aug, 10am-4:30pm Oct-Apr) is a tranquility break from clamorous Chinatown. This intimate вЂ˜garden of ease’ reveals the Taoist symbolism behind the placing of gnarled pine trees, winding covered pathways and ancient limestone formations. Entry includes a fascinating guided tour – look out for lazy turtles bobbing in the water – and concerts are held here on summertime Friday evenings.

Charting the city’s murky criminal past – complete with confiscated weapons, counterfeit currencies and a mortuary exhibit that’s not for the faint-hearted – the excellent little Vancouver Police Centennial Museum (Map; 604-665-3346; www.vancouverpolicemuseum.ca; 240 E Cordova St; adult/child $7/5; 9am-5pm Mon-Sat) is one of the best historic attractions around. If you have time, its gripping Sins of the City walking tour ($12) escorts curious visitors around the dodgy Downtown Eastside, exploring some eye-popping vice- and crime-fighting history along the way.

Science World at TELUS World of Science (Map; 604-443-7443; www.scienceworld.bc.ca; 1455 Quebec St; adult/youth/child $16/13/11; 10am-6pm) is a great place to bring the kids. Science World occupies the mirrored geodesic вЂ˜Golf Ball’ that was built for Expo ’86. It’s a high-tech playground of interactive exhibits and live presentations on nature, space, physics and technology and there’s enough to keep parents occupied, too. The on-site OMNIMAX Theatre (tickets $10) shows large-screen documentary movies if you need a sit down.

South Main (SoMa) & Commercial Drive

Eschewing the fake tans of the Robson St shoppers, Vancouver’s indie crowd has colonized an area of town that used to be a byword for down-at-heal. Starting at the intersection of Main St and Broadway, South Main (Map) – now known as SoMa – is home to a clutch of alternative shops and designers. Bohemian coffee bars, vegetarian-friendly eateries, one-of-a-kind boutiques and bold little artist-run galleries are blooming in this area.

Jump back on Main St bus 3 from downtown until you hit Main and 48th and you’ll find yourself in the Punjabi Market area. Also known as вЂ˜Little India,’ this enclave of sari stores, Bangra music shops and some of the region’s best-value curry restaurants is a good spot for a spicy all-you-can-eat lunch followed by a restorative walkabout.

Culinary adventurers should also consider trekking along funky Commercial Dr, where decades of European immigrants – especially Italians, Greeks and Portuguese – have created a United Nations of restaurants, coffee bars and exotic delis. This is the best spot in town to watch international soccer games among the city’s most passionate fans, and it’s also a promenade of espresso-supping patio dwellers on languid summer afternoons when it becomes the city’s alternative promenade for young bohemians and student types.

Granville Island

Fanning out under the giant iron arches of Granville Bridge, this gentrified former industrial peninsula – it’s not actually an island – is one of the best spots to spend a lazy afternoon in the city. Combining restaurants, bars, theaters and artisan businesses, it’s usually crowded here on summer weekends, as visitors chill-out with the buskers and wrestle the seagulls for their fish and chips. For information on happenings, check www.granvilleisland.com.

Granville Island’s highlight is the covered Public Market (Map; 604-666-6477; Johnson St; 9am-7pm), a multisensory deli specializing in gourmet fish, cheese, fruit and bakery treats. It has an international food court (eat lunch early or late to avoid the rush) and a kaleidoscope of cool craft stalls. Popular three-hour tasting tours of the market are offered by Edible BC (604-662-3606, 888-812-9660; www.edible-britishcolumbia.com; tours $55; 8:30am Wed & Sat).

You can also take a tour at nearby Granville Island Brewing (Map; 604-687-2739; www.gib.ca; 1441 Cartwright St; tours $9.75; noon, 2pm & 4pm). The guides here walk you through the tiny brewing room (production has mostly shifted to larger premises) before depositing you in the taproom for samples including Cypress Honey Lager and the recommended Kitsilano Maple Cream Ale.

A visit to the three public galleries at the highly regarded Emily Carr Institute of Art & Design (Map; 604-844-3800, 800-832-7788; www.eciad.ca; 1399 Johnson St; admission free; 10am-6pm) is also recommended; it offers an eye-opening glimpse into the minds of up-and-coming artists. There’s also an excellent art bookstore on site.

Once you’ve finished trawling the shops and attractions, hop aboard the Downtown Historic Railway (www.trams.bc.ca; adult/child $2/1; 12:30-5pm Sat, Sun & holidays May-Oct), which runs two clackety old streetcars between the entrance to Granville Island and Science World.

Kitsilano

A former hippy haven where the counter-culture flower children grew up to reap large mortgages and professional jobs, вЂ˜Kits’ is a pleasant neighborhood of pricey heritage homes, cozy coffee bars and highly browsable shops. Recommended for a lazy afternoon of street strolling – especially along store-lined W 4th Ave. It also has a couple of great waterfront stretches at Jericho Beach Park and Kitsilano Beach Park (Map), both lovely sunset spots.

A short waterside walk from Granville Island, Vanier Park hosts the stripy tents of the annual Bard on the Beach Festival and is also home to a clutch of small, family-friendly museums.

Among these, Vancouver Museum (Map; 604-736-4431; www.vanmuseum.bc.ca; 1100 Chestnut St; adult/child $10/6.50; 10am-5pm Tue-Sun, to 9pm Thu) has some unique aboriginal artifacts – although they’re not as well presented as those at the Museum of Anthropology. Recent history is also on offer, with colorful displays covering 1950s pop culture and 1960s hippy counter-culture.

The adjacent HR MacMillan Space Centre (Map; 604-738-7827; www.hrmacmillanspacecentre.com; 1100 Chestnut St; adult/child $15/10.75; 10am-5pm, Jul & Aug, 10am-5pm Tue-Sun Sep-Jun) is popular with kids, who hit the hands-on exhibits with maximum force. There’s an additional free-entry stand-alone observatory (open weekends, weather permitting) and a planetarium that runs weekend laser shows (tickets $10.50) with music by the likes of Pink Floyd.

The final member of the triumvirate, the Vancouver Maritime Museum (Map; 604-257-8300; www.vancouvermaritimemuseum.com; 1905 Ogden Ave; adult/child $10/7.50; 10am-5pm May-Aug, 10am-5pm Tue-Sat, noon-5pm Sun Sep-Apr) combines dozens of intricate model ships with some detailed re-created boat sections and a few historic vessels. Highlight exhibits here include the St Roch, an arctic patrol vessel that was the first to navigate the Northwest Passage in both directions.

University of British Columbia

West from Kits on a 400-hectare forested peninsula, UBC (604-822-2211; www.ubc.ca) is the province’s largest university. Its concrete campus is surrounded by the University Endowment Lands, complete with accessible beach and forest areas and a smattering of recommended visitor attractions.



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LOCAL VOICE

Christopher Gaze, actor and artistic director of Bard on the Beach, Vancouver’s waterfront Shakespeare festival.



What makes Bard on the Beach a uniquely Vancouver festival? The exquisite beauty of the sea, the mountains and the sky becomes the backdrop of a great production of classical theater, bringing the two worlds of stage and nature together.



How do you think Shakespeare would react to seeing his plays performed in waterfront tents? I think he would be delighted! Essentially he wrote his plays for the Globe Theatre in London, which was open above a portion of the audience. Our theater is open behind the stage, so everyone is dry.



Vancouver has a strong вЂ˜outdoorsy’ reputation but how would you define the city’s cultural scene? The cultural scene in Vancouver is at an exciting precipice right now. Professional production companies are providing outstanding seasons, while emerging artists are bringing a new energy and cultural growth to the city.



Personally, what are some of your favorite Vancouver cultural pursuits? The Vancouver Symphony Orchestra, the opera and all of the theater productions in Vancouver.



Outside Bard, what other festivals do you personally enjoy visiting? Festival Vancouver, the Folk Festival and the Jazz Festival: there is a festival for everyone in this city.



Any tips for first-time visitors on how to make the most of their Bard experience? Buy your tickets early! Once you have your tickets, plan to come down early and have a picnic in beautiful Vanier Park. Don’t forget to bring something warm as it does tend to cool down once the second act gets going.



Over the years, what have been the most requested plays among Bard fans? A Midsummer Night’s Dream, Romeo and Juliet etc. But Shakespeare has such a wonderful canon that we have been able to offer a little of everything to fans. With the addition of our Studio Stage in 1999 it allowed us to bring more of the rarely performed works to the stage.



What is your own favorite Shakespeare part and what is your favorite Shakespeare play? I love Dream, and I really enjoyed playing Richard III. Playing Shakespeare is always a passion and a constant delight.





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With Canada’s best display of northwest coast aboriginal artifacts, the Museum of Anthropology (Map; 604-822-3825; www.moa.ubc.ca; 6393 NW Marine Dr; adult/child $9/7, after 5pm Tue admission by donation; 10am-5pm Wed-Mon, 10am-9pm Tue mid-May–mid-Oct, 11am-5pm Wed-Sun, 11am-9pm Tue mid-Oct–mid-May) is a must-see museum. The totem poles alone – displayed against a wall of glass overlooking the coastline – are worth the admission. Ask about the free, twice-daily gallery tours to get the most from your visit. Designed by Arthur Erickson, the museum building mirrors the post-and-beam construction of early aboriginal structures.

Green-thumbed visitors will enjoy the UBC Botanical Garden (Map; 604-822-9666; www.ubcbotanicalgarden.org; 6804 SW Marine Dr; adult/child $7/free; 10am-6pm mid-Mar–mid-Oct, 10am-3pm mid-Oct–mid-Mar), a renowned 28-hectare clutch of themed gardens, which includes Canada’s largest collection of rhododendrons, an apothecary garden and a winter garden of plants that bloom outside spring and summer. Combined entry with the nearby Nitobe Memorial Garden is $10.

Designed by a top Japanese landscape architect, the lovely Nitobe Memorial Garden (Map; 604-822-6038; www.nitobe.org; 6804 SW Marine Dr; adult/child $5/free; 10am-6pm mid-Mar–mid-Oct, 10am-2:30pm Mon-Fri mid-Oct–mid-Mar) is a perfect example of the Asian nation’s symbolic horticultural art form. Aside from some traffic noise and summer bus tours, it’s a tranquil retreat, ideal for quiet meditation. Combined entry with the UBC Botanical Garden is $10.

Follow Trail 6 into the woods then head down the steps to the waterfront to find Wreck Beach (Map; www.wreckbeach.org), a naturist haven of counterculture locals, independent vendors and in-the-know visitors sharing this 7.8km stretch of sand. The regulars are in a continuing battle with the university over the building of residential towers that threaten their privacy, so be sure to offer your support as you peel off. There’s no need to bring lunch: wandering food sellers here range from Stormin’ Norman’s buffalo burgers to Marco’s organic fruit juices.

West Side

With sports fields, manicured lawns and formal botanical gardens, the 53-hectare Queen Elizabeth Park (Map) – located between Cambie and Ontario Sts near 33rd Ave – also serves up some of Vancouver’s best city views. Cresting the park’s hill is the triodetic dome of the Bloedel Floral Conservatory (Map; 604-257-8584; adult/child $4.50/2.25; 9am-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-9pm Sat & Sun Apr-Sep, 10am-5pm Oct-Mar) where tropical birds and plants populate three climate-controlled environments.

If you want to be taken out to the ball game, the park’s recently-restored old-school Nat Bailey Stadium is a popular summer afternoon destination for fans of the Vancouver Canadians baseball team Click here.

Four blocks west of the park, VanDusen Botanical Garden (Map; 604-878-9274; www.vandusengarden.org; 5251 Oak St; adult/youth/child Apr-Sep $7.95/6/4.50, Oct-Mar $5.70/4.25/2.75; 10am-4pm Nov-Feb, 10am-5pm Mar & Oct, 10am-6pm Apr, 10am-8pm May, 10am-9pm Jun-Aug, 10am-7pm Sep) offers a highly ornamental confection of sculptures, Canadian heritage flowers, rare plants from around the world and a popular hedge maze. The garden is one of Vancouver’s top Christmastime destinations, complete with thousands of twinkling fairy lights.

If you fancy an enjoyable window-shopping stroll, South Granville (www.southgranville.org) – an 11-block stretch of galleries, restaurants and browsable shops between 5th and 16th Aves on Granville St – is worth an afternoon of anyone’s time.



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TOP FIVE VANCOUVER PICNIC SPOTS



Third Beach Spectacular sea and sunset views in Stanley Park.

Vanier Park Laid-back grassy knoll with languid sea and mountain vistas.

Lumberman’s Arch Stanley Park’s other great picnic spot, with views of passing cruise ships.

Kitsilano Beach Giant sandy expanse with nearby swimming pool to help you work up an appetite.

Wreck Beach (opposite) UBC’s naturist enclave, complete with its own wandering food vendors.





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ACTIVITIES

With a reputation for outdoorsy locals who like nothing better than an early morning 10km jog and a lip-smacking feast of rice cakes for breakfast, Vancouver is all about being active. Popular pastimes here include running, biking and kayaking, while you’re also just a short hop from some serious winter sport action in North Vancouver and West Vancouver.

Hiking and Running

For arm-swinging strolls or heart-pounding runs, the 9km Stanley Park seawall is mostly flat – apart from a couple of uphills where you might want to hang onto a passing bike. A devastating late-2006 storm affected many of the forested trails within the park – even the seawall was still being cleared on our visit – but most are expected to be restored, including the popular 4km trek around Lost Lagoon. UBC is another popular running spot with trails marked throughout the University Endowment Lands. Visit North Vancouver for the Grouse Grind, an uphill slog that’s a rite of passage for many locals.

If you want to hook up with some Vancouver joggers, drop by the Nike Runner’s Lounge (Map; 778-786-7463; www.nikerunning.ca; 510 Nicola St; 4-8pm Mon-Thu, 8am-1pm Sat & Sun) on the Coal Harbour side of Stanley Park. You can check your bags, collect an area running map and borrow an iPod for your trek.

Cycling

Joggers share the busy Stanley Park seawall with cyclists (and in-line skaters), necessitating a one-way traffic system that also acts to prevent bloody pile-ups. The sea-to-sky vistas are breathtaking, but the exposed route can be hit with crashing waves and icy winds in winter. Since slow-moving, camera-wielding tourists crowd the route during summer peaks, it’s best to come early in the morning or later in the evening.

After circling the park to English Bay, cyclists with energy to spare can continue along the north side of False Creek towards Science World, where the route heads up the south side of False Creek towards Granville Island, Vanier Park, Kitsilano Beach and, finally, UBC. This extended route, including Stanley Park, is around 25km. Olympic Village construction was affecting parts of this route on our visit, so watch out for diversions.

There are several bike and blade rental outlets near the park around the Georgia and Denman Sts intersection. One of these, Spokes Bicycle Rentals (Map; 604-688-5141; www.vancouverbikerental.com; 1798 W Georgia St) offers 90-minute guided tours around the seawall.

Kayaking & Windsurfing

It’s hard to beat the joy engendered by a sunset paddle around the coastline here, with the sun sliding languidly down the mirrored glass towers that forest the city like modern-day totem poles. With its calm waters, Vancouver is a popular spot for both veteran and novice kayakers.

Headquartered on Granville Island, the friendly folk at Ecomarine Ocean Kayak Centre (Map; 604-689-7575, 888-425-2925; www.ecomarine.com; 1668 Duranleau St; rentals 2hr/day $34/59, tours from $54; 10am-6pm Jan-May, 9am-6pm Sun-Thu, 9am-9pm Fri & Sat Jun-Aug, 10am-6pm Sep-Dec) offer guided tours and equipment rentals – Tuesday is two-for-one rental day. The Jericho Beach branch (Map; 604-222-3565; Jericho Sailing Centre, 1300 Discovery St; 10am-dusk Mon-Fri, 9am-9pm Sat & Sun May-Aug, 10am-dusk Sep) in Kits also organizes events and seminars where you can rub shoulders with local paddle nuts.

For those who want to be at one with the sea breeze, Windsure Adventure Watersports (Map; 604-224-0615; www.windsure.com; Jericho Sailing Centre, 1300 Discovery St; surf board/skim board rentals per hr $17.55/4.39; 9am-8pm Apr-Sep) specializes in kiteboarding, windsurfing and skimboarding and offers lessons and equipment rentals from its Jericho Beach base.

Once you’ve finished your watery shenanigans here, grab a beer and some pub grub at the Jericho Sailing Centre (Map; 1300 Discover St). Try to find a seat on the patio for what may turn out to be the best sunset view of your life.

Swimming

Vancouver’s best beaches – English Bay, Kitsilano Beach, Jericho Beach and Stanley Park’s Second Beach and Third Beach – bristle with ocean swimmers in summer. For the nakedly inclined, Wreck Beach is the city’s popular naturist haven.

Popular with families, there’s an excellent outdoor swimming pool near Second Beach in Stanley Park. Alternatively, Kitsilano Beach has a large heated outdoor saltwater pool (Map; 604-731-0011; 2305 Cornwall Ave; adult/youth/child $5.35/4/2.65; 7am-8:45pm mid-May–mid-Sep). If it’s raining, you’ll likely prefer the indoor Vancouver Aquatic Centre (Map; 604-665-3424; 1050 Beach Ave; adult/youth/child $5.35/4/2.65; 6:30am-9:30pm Mon-Fri, 8am-9pm Sat & Sun), which has a sauna, whirlpool and diving tank.


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WALKING TOUR

Overlooking the glassy waters of Coal Harbour (1), follow the curving seawall path to the Stanley Park Information Centre (2), picking up a map (and maybe an ice cream) for your trek. Pull out your camera for some photos of the nearby totem poles (3), then turn around and shoot the downtown towers and maybe a floatplane or two landing in False Creek. Continue on towards the Nine O’clock Gun (4), which still booms across the city every night, then wind north to Brockton Point (5) with its little white lighthouse. The adjoining downhill stretch will bring you to the oft-photographed Girl in a Wetsuit (6) sculpture and the undercarriage of the towering Lions Gate Bridge (7). You’ll get a blast of sea breeze as you round Prospect Point (8) as well as some spectacular sea-to-sky vistas; pause to reflect on the late-2006 storm that uprooted many of the old trees in this area. Take out your camera again for some shots of Siwash Rock (9), an offshore outcropping that’s part of First Nations legend. If your legs are feeling wobbly, you can pick up the free shuttle bus here to return you to the park entrance. But it’s certainly worth pushing on to Third Beach (10), where you can rest on a log and unpack a picnic to enjoy the panoramic sea views. Pick up the pace after your break, stroll past the swimming pool at Second Beach (11) and hit the home stretch to English Bay (12), where coffee shops and restaurants abound.



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STANLEY PARK SEAWALL

Start point Coal Harbour



End point English Bay



Distance 9.5km



Duration Two hours





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VANCOUVER FOR CHILDREN

If you’re dragging kids around with you, luckily Vancouver has plenty of options to keep both you and your sprogs happy. Check www.kidsvancouver.com for ideas or pick up a free copy of Kids’ Guide Vancouver from the visitor center.

Stanley Park can keep most families occupied for a full day. If it’s hot, make sure you hit the water park at Lumberman’s Arch or try the swimming pool at Second Beach; also consider the miniature railway and children’s farmyard here. The park is a great place to bring a picnic and its beaches – especially Third Beach – are highly kid-friendly. Make sure you save time for the Vancouver Aquarium and, if your kids have been good, consider a behind-the-scenes trainer tour.

The city’s other educational family-friendly attractions include Science World and the HR MacMillan Space Centre. If it’s raining, you can also duck inside at downtown’s Canada Place for the hands-on Port Interpretation Centre and the large-format CN IMAX Theatre.

Sporty kids will enjoy the plethora of exertive activities at the BC Sports Hall of Fame & Museum. If the sun comes back out, they’ll also have a swaying good time over at the North Shore’s Capilano Suspension Bridge.

If you time your visit right, the city has an array of family-friendly festivals, including the Pacific National Exhibition, the Vancouver International Children’s Festival and the fireworks fiesta known as the Celebration of Light.


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OFFBEAT VANCOUVER

For curious visitors tired of the predictable tourist haunts or well-worn neighborhood areas, it’s worth scratching beneath the surface in Vancouver to find a few activities that only the locals seem to know about.

While strong вЂ˜BC Bud’ usually appears at a certain time of night at most city house parties – you’ll likely also catch a whiff of it as you walk around the streets – many visitors are still mildly shocked to see hemp shops and hydroponics stores openly selling the required paraphernalia (although not the weed itself). For arguments in support of legalization, duck into the shop and offices of the BC Marijuana Party at Cannabis Culture Headquarters (Map; 604-682-1172; www.bcmarijuanaparty.ca; 307 W Hastings St; 10am-7pm Mon-Thu, 10am-8pm Fri & Sat, noon-6pm Sun). It also houses the Vapour Lounge, where you can chill-out with some like-minded new buddies.

You can strikeout in a more wholesome way at one of the last remaining downtown bowling alleys in Canada. Like stepping back in time, the subterranean Art Deco Commodore Lanes (Map; 604-681-1531; 838 Granville St; per game from $4; 11am-midnight Sun-Thu, 11am-1am Fri & Sat) hides underneath the downtown shops on Granville St. Nostalgic oldsters and kitsch-loving Japanese language students pretending they’re in an Archie comic hog the lanes on weekend nights here – pool tables and local beer at the bar will keep you busy if you have to wait.

Some visitors might have more fun losing their shirts at Hastings Racecourse (Map; 604-254-1631, 800-677-7702; www.hastingspark.com; Hastings & Renfrew Sts; Apr-Nov), which offers a recipe for an unusual day out just 10 minutes from downtown. Novice betters are welcome and, when you’re not watching the gee-gees, there are some great views of the mountains – although this probably won’t console you when you’re down to your final dollar.

You’ll have to lose more than your shirt if you want to hit UBC’s Wreck Beach, the city’s naturist stretch that’s also a wrinkled reminder of Vancouver’s once-dominant counterculture past. There are several good food vendors here if you’re keen on having a naked lunch.

If you’re inspired by some of the bodies languishing around you, check out Art of Loving (Map; 604-742-9988; www.theartofloving.ca; 1819 W 5th Ave; 10am-7pm Mon-Wed & Sat, 10am-10pm Thu & Fri, noon-7pm Sun), a tasteful sex shop for the non–dirty-mac brigade. Among its popular products are the Love Swing (ask for a demo) and glow-in-the-dark condoms (don’t ask for a demo). The store also hosts classes with titles like вЂ˜the Joy of Flirting.’

If you prefer to woo your object of desire with old-fashioned methods, drop by the Regional Assembly of Text (Map; 604-877-2247; www.assembleyoftext.com; 3934 Main St; 11am-6pm Mon-Sat, noon-5pm Sun) shop, where you can join the hipsters for a monthly letter-writing club (7pm, first Thursday of every month), complete with stationery, tea, cookies and encouragement. This highly quirky store is also brimming with handmade journals, T-shirts and lexicographic paraphernalia – staff might even let you try one of the vintage typewriters if you ask nicely.


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TOURS

Bike Tours



City by Cycle Tours (604-730-1032, 888-599-6800; www.citybycycle.com; adult/child $69/59; 9am & 2pm) Offering excellent four-hour guided rides around the city’s highlights, including Stanley Park, English Bay, Chinatown and Granville Island. Rates include bikes and helmets.



Boat Tours



Accent Cruises (604-688-6625; www.dinnercruises.com; 1676 Duranleau St; dinner cruise $60; May–mid-Oct) Popular sunset cruise with salmon buffet option. Departs from Granville Island.

Harbour Cruises (604-688-7246, 800-663-1500; www.boatcruises.com; adult/youth/child $25/21/10; mid-Apr–mid-Oct) View the city – and some unexpected wildlife – from the water on a 75-minute Harbour Tour, which departs from the north foot of Denman St.



Bus Tours



Big Bus (604-299-0700, 877-299-0701; www.bigbus.ca; adult/youth/child $35/30/17) Two-day hop-on-hop-off ticket covering 20 attractions.

Gray Line West (604-879-3363, 800-667-0882; www.graylinewest.com; adult/child $62/42) Four-hour Deluxe City Tour, including Chinatown, Stanley Park and Granville Island.

Vancouver Trolley Company (604-801-5515, 888-451-5581; www.vancouvertrolley.com; adult/child $35/18.50) Red replica trolley buses offering one-day hop-on-hop-off transportation around 24 popular stops.





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GAY & LESBIAN VANCOUVER

Vancouver’s West End district, complete with its pink-painted bus shelters, houses Western Canada’s largest вЂ˜gayborhood.’ Pick up a free copy of Xtra! West here for a crash-course on the local scene, and check www.gayvancouver.net and www.superdyke.com for pertinent listings and resources.



With its rainbow flags and hand-holding locals, Davie St is the vibrant heart of the West End’s gay culture. It’s scattered with friendly cafés, bars, stores and the city’s best resource center for gay and lesbian visitors: Little Sisters Book & Art Emporium (Map; 604-669-1753; 1238 Davie St; 10am-11pm). With a giant selection of specialist literature, an active bulletin board and a hyper-knowledgeable staff, it’s a good first stop for Vancouver first-timers. Pick up a free copy of the glossy Gay & Lesbian Business Directory while you’re there for an exhaustive list of other relevant local enterprises, then head down to Denman St and read it at Delany’s (Map; 604-662-3344; 1105 Denman St), a laid-back neighborhood coffee bar that’s a popular hangout for local scenesters.



If you arrive early enough to find a seat, this is a good spot to catch the mammoth Pride Week (opposite) parade, staged every August – although you might have to stand on your chair for a better view. Along with this family-friendly street fiesta, there are dozens of pre- and post-parade events covering all kinds of interests and desires.



Among the city’s most popular gay-friendly nightlife options are the Pump Jack (Map; 604-685-3417; 1167 Davie St), a loud and proud pub with a noisy patio, and the Odyssey (Map; 604-689-5256; 1251 Howe St), the city’s number-one gay nightclub, combining regular drag nights on Wednesdays and Sundays with a host of ever-changing special events. New kid on the block 1181 (Map; 604-687-3991; 1181 Davie St) combines a cool cocktail-lounge ambiance with Saturday night’s DJ-led dance party.



For support of all kinds, the Centre (Map; 604-684-5307; www.lgtbcentrevancouver.com; 1170 Bute St) provides discussion groups, a health clinic and legal advice for lesbians, gays, bisexuals and the transgendered. These friendly folk also staff the Prideline (604-684-6869; 7-10pm), a telephone peer support, information and referral service.





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Guided Walking Tours



Edible BC (604-662-3606, 888-812-9660; www.edible-britishcolumbia.com; Granville Island Public Market; tours $55) Colorful three-hour foodie treks around Chinatown, Commercial Drive or Granville Island.

Gastown Historic Walking Tours (604-683-5650; www.gastown.org; tours free; 2pm mid-Jun-Aug) A 90-minute tour on the history and architecture of Vancouver’s birthplace. Departs from Gassy Jack Statue.




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FESTIVALS & EVENTS



Chinese New Year (604-632-3808; www.vancouver-chinatown.com) Festive kaleidoscope of dancing, parades and great food held in January or February.

Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival (604-872-6622; www.playhousewinefest.com) The city’s oldest and best annual wine celebration takes place in late March.

Vancouver International Children’s Festival (604-708-5655; www.childrensfestival.ca) Storytelling, performance and activities in the tents at Vanier Park in mid-May.

Bard on the Beach (604-739-0559; www.bardonthebeach.org) A season (June to September) of four Shakespeare-related plays in the Vanier Park tents.

Vancouver International Jazz Festival (604-872-5200; www.coastaljazz.ca) City-wide cornucopia of superstar shows and free outdoor events from mid-June.

Alcan Dragon Boat Festival (604-688-2382; www.adbf.com) In the third week of June, a two-day splashathon of boat racing shenanigans.

Canada Day (604-775-8025; www.canadaday.canadaplace.ca) Exhibits, food and live performances help Canadians celebrate the nation on July 1.

Vancouver Folk Music Festival (604-602-9798; www.thefestival.bc.ca) Folk and world music shows at Jericho Beach in mid-July.

Celebration of Light (604-641-1193; www.hsbccelebrationoflight.com) Free international fireworks extravaganza in English Bay from late July.

Pride Week (604-687-0955; www.vancouverpride.ca) From late July, parties, concerts and fashion shows culminating in giant pride parade.

Festival Vancouver (604-688-1152; www.festivalvancouver.bc.ca) Showcasing of choral, opera, classical, jazz and world music performances in mid-August.

Pacific National Exhibition (604-253-2311; www.pne.bc.ca) Family-friendly shows, music concerts and a fairground from mid-August.

Vancouver International Fringe Festival (604-257-0350; www.vancouverfringe.com) Wild and wacky theatricals at mainstream and unconventional Granville Island venues in mid-September.

Vancouver International Film Festival (604-685-0260; www.viff.org) Popular two-week showcase (from mid-September) of Canadian and international movies.

Vancouver International Writers Festival (604-681-6330; www.writersfest.bc.ca) Local and international scribblers populate literary seminars, galas and public forums in mid-October.

Santa Claus Parade Christmas procession in mid-November, complete with the great man himself.




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SLEEPING

With around 25,000 Greater Vancouver hotel, hostel and B&B rooms available, the city has plenty of options to suit all tastes and budgets. While rates peak in the summer months, there are some great deals available in fall and early spring when the weather is often amenable and the tourist crowds mercifully reduced. The website of Tourism Vancouver (www.tourismvancouver.com) lists options and packages and the province’s Hello BC (604-663-6000, 800-663-6000; www.hellobc.com) service provides further information and bookings. Be aware that many hotels charge $10 to $15 for overnight parking.

Downtown

SameSun Backpackers Lodge (Map; 604-682-8226, 877-972-6378; www.samesun.com; 1018 Granville St; dm/r $25/65; wi-fi) Expect a party atmosphere at this lively hostel in the heart of the Granville nightclub area – there’s also a hopping on-site bar if you don’t quite make it out the front door. The dorms, complete with funky paint-jobs, are comfortably small and there’s a large kitchen plus a strong line-up of social events.

HI Vancouver Central (Map; 604-685-5335, 888-203-8333; www.hihostels.ca/vancouvercentral; 1025 Granville St; dm/r $27.50/66; wi-fi) Opposite the Samesun, this labyrinthine former hotel building has a calmer ambience, small dorms with sinks and lots of private rooms – some with en suites. If you’re new to the city, ask about taking a tour with the legendary Erik, HI volunteer extraordinaire. Rates include continental buffet breakfast.

Bosman’s Hotel (Map; 604-682-3171, 888-267-6267; www.bosmanshotel.com; 1060 Howe St; d from $109; wi-fi) Clean, comfortable and good-value, heart-of-the-action Bosman’s is a city-center motel with large, slightly faded rooms heavy on the pink decor. The front-desk staff is adept at helping with your day-out plans, there’s a popular on-site restaurant serving comfort-food classics and, like all good motels, there’s a small, kidney-shaped pool to cool-off after your long drive.

Moda Hotel (Map; 604-683-4251, 877-683-5522; www.modahotel.ca; 900 Seymour St; d from $119; wi-fi) The old rough-and-ready Dufferin Hotel has been reinvented as this white-fronted, designer-flecked boutique property one block from the Granville St party area. The new rooms have loungey flourishes like mod furnishings and bold paintwork and the bathrooms have been given a swanky makeover. The flat-screen TVs are a nice touch if you decide to have a night in.

Comfort Inn Downtown (Map; 604-605-4333, 888-605-5333; www.comfortinndowntown.com; 654 Nelson St; d/tw $129/149) With a great central location, the Comfort Inn’s rooms are bright and jazzy, combining cheetah-print curtains with wall prints of old Vancouver. The corner suites, with fireplaces and Jacuzzi tubs, are the best rooms. Continental breakfast and access to a nearby health club are included and there’s a popular Irish bar on site if you need to wave your shillelagh around.

Kingston Hotel (Map; 604-684-9024, 888-713-3304; www.kingstonhotelvancouver.com; 757 Richards St; s/d/tw $115/145/160) While some recent revamping has taken place, most rooms at this Euro-style pension property are still basic and a bit worn – except for the recommended en-suite rooms, which have new furniture, flat-screen TVs and fresh floral bedspreads. Rates include continental breakfast and there’s a popular on-site patio bar: you’re also walking distance from most of the city’s main action.

Wedgewood Hotel & Spa (Map; 604-689-7777, 800-663-0666; www.wedgewoodhotel.com; 845 Hornby St; r from $350; ) The last word in boutique luxury, this elegant place is dripping with top-hatted charm. The friendly staff is second to none, the rooms are stuffed with reproduction antiques and the balconies enable you to smirk at the grubby plebs shuffling past below. Steam up your monocle with a trip to the spa where a Shiatsu massage should work off those sore shopping muscles.

Stanley Park & West End

HI Vancouver Downtown (Map; 604-684-4565, 888-203-4302; www.hihostels.ca/vancouverdowntown; 1114 Burnaby St; dm/r $27.50/66; wi-fi) Actually located in the West End, close to Davie St’s pubs and clubs, this purpose-built hostel has a more institutional feel than its Granville St brother. It’s also quieter and more popular with families. The dorms are all small and added extras range from bike rentals to internet-access computers. Rates include continental breakfast.

Buchan Hotel (Map; 604-685-5354, 800-668-6654; www.buchanhotel.com; 1906 Haro St; r from $72) This cheerful, tidy and good-value heritage sleepover near Stanley Park combines cheaper rooms – many with shared bathrooms, elderly furnishings and older blankets – with higher quality and pricier en suites. The smiley front-desk staff is excellent and there are storage facilities for bikes and skis.

Tropicana Suite Hotel (Map; 604-687-6631; www.tropicanavancouver.com; 1361 Robson St; s/d $129/139; ) Best of the three self-catering hotels crowding the corner of Robson and Broughton Sts, rooms at the Tropicana combine faded pink-trimmed walls and clashing green comforters. While it will never be cool, it’s good-value and has a great location. Most suites have full kitchens with stoves and large refrigerators and there’s a heated indoor pool and sauna.

Blue Horizon Hotel (Map; 604-688-1411, 800-663-1333; www.bluehorizonhotel.com; 1225 Robson St; d from $164; wi-fi) Sleek and comfortable, this slender tower-block property offers quality rooms with the kind of business-hotel furnishings common in pricier joints. All rooms are corner suites and each has a balcony – the top floors look across to English Bay or the North Shore. The on-site restaurant has a street-side patio and serves up West Coast reinventions of traditional breakfasts – look out for the blueberry pancakes.

Sylvia Hotel (Map; 604-681-9321; www.sylviahotel.com; 1154 Gifford St; s/d/ste from $110/165/195) This charming, ivy-covered landmark is an old-school English Bay hangout that’s never forgotten what good service means. With the lobby of a Bavarian pension – stained-glass windows and dark wood paneling – there’s a wide array of comfortable, home-style room configurations. The best rooms are the 12 apartment suites, each with full kitchens and panoramic waterfront views. Book ahead and you’ll have a front-row seat for the fireworks festival Click here.

Listel Vancouver (Map; 604-684-8461, 800-663-5491; www.listel-vancouver.com; 1300 Robson St; d from $179; wi-fi) A self-described вЂ˜art hotel’, the Listel attracts grown-up sophisticates with its on-site installations and package deals with local art galleries. There’s also original artwork including some aboriginal creations in the rooms, which all have a relaxing, mood-lit West Coast ambiance. Adding to the artsy appeal, the hotel’s on-site O’Doul’s restaurant hosts nightly jazz performances.

O Canada House B&B (Map; 604-688-0555, 877-688-1114; www.ocanadahouse.com; 1114 Barclay St; d from $210; wi-fi) The home where Canada’s national anthem was penned is now an immaculate, adult-oriented B&B packed with antiques and Queen Anne flourishes. Its seven elegant rooms are a haven from the city bustle – the wrap-around veranda is a popular spot to watch the world go by – and there’s a guest pantry with sherry and baked goodies if you can’t wait for your next meal.

Yaletown & Gastown

YWCA Hotel (Map; 604-895-5830, 800-663-1424; www.ywcahotel.com; 733 Beatty St; s/d/tr $64/77/102; ) One of Canada’s best Ys, this popular tower near Yaletown is a useful option for those on a budget. Accommodating men, women, couples and families, it’s a bustling place with a communal kitchen on every other floor and rooms ranging from compact singles to group-friendly larger quarters. All are a little institutionalized – think student study bedroom – but each has a sink and refrigerator.

Victorian Hotel (Map; 604-681-6369, 877-681-6369; www.victorianhotel.ca; 514 Homer St; r with/without bathroom from $129/99; wi-fi) Housed in a couple of expertly renovated older properties, high-ceilinged rooms at the Victorian combine glossy hardwood floors, a sprinkling of antiques and bags of heritage charm. Most are en suite with summer fans, TVs and robes provided but the best rooms are in the extension, complete with its marble-floored bathrooms. Rates include continental breakfast.

St Regis Hotel (Map; 604-681-1135, 800-770-7929; www.stregishotel.com; 602 Dunsmuir St; r from $149; wi-fi) Upgraded in recent years from its previous down-at-heel incarnation, this well-located heritage hotel combines fairly pokey standard rooms with swankier quarters on its higher floors. Rates include continental breakfast, access to a small on-site business center and entry to the gym across the street. It’s a busy part of town, so ask for a back room if noise is an issue.

Georgian Court Hotel (Map; 604-682-5555, 800-663-1155; www.georgiancourt.com; 773 Beatty St; r from $195; wi-fi) A recent makeover for this discreet, European-style property hasn’t changed its classic approach to high service levels and solid, dependable amenities. The spruced-up standard rooms have new carpets and curtains but the apartment-style corner suites, with their quiet, recessed bedrooms, are recommended. There’s a small on-site fitness room and the Swiss-flavored William Tell Restaurant draws plenty of outside diners.

Opus Hotel Vancouver (Map; 604-642-6787, 866-642-6787; www.opushotel.com; 322 Davie St; d/ste from $340; wi-fi) While the city’s hotly anticipated Lodon and L’Hermitage hotels had yet to open during the research period for this book, the Opus was still clinging on as Vancouver’s best contemporary boutique property. Not quite ready to surrender its title as the city’s most talked-about sleepover, this stylish Yaletown spot combines designer esthetics with loungey west coast comforts. The rooms – especially the corner suites with their feng-shui bed placements – offer laid-back coziness, mod furnishings and earth-tone bedspreads.

Granville Island & Kitsilano

HI Vancouver Jericho Beach (Map; 604-224-3208, 888-203-4303; www.hihostels.ca; 1515 Discovery St; dm/r $27/71; May-Sep; ) A waterfront retreat that’s a bus ride from downtown, this giant HI sleepover attracts beach bums and activity nuts in equal measure. Outdoors types can rent bikes and sports equipment on site or stroll to the nearby kayaking and surfing operators. The large, basic dorm rooms are fine if you like a crowd – book ahead if you want one of the private rooms.

Maple House B&B (Map; 604-739-5833; www.maplehouse.com; 1533 Maple St; d $130; wi-fi) Although located in an old heritage property close to Kits Beach, this cozy little B&B is less about antique knick knaks and more about home comforts. Fusing elegant old flourishes with modern chintz touches, each of the three rooms has a private bathroom – the hardwood-floored blue room is our favorite. Your cooked breakfast is served in the high-ceilinged dining room downstairs.

Mickey’s Kits Beach Chalet (Map; 604-739-3342, 888-739-3342; www.mickeysbandb.com; 2142 W 1st Ave; d $120-160; wi-fi) This Whistler-style chalet property has three rooms and a hedged-in garden terrace. Behind its slender, chimney-dominated exterior, its quarters – including the gabled, top-floor York Room – are decorated in a comfortable contemporary style, although only the York Room has an en suite. Family-friendly, the hosts can supply toys, cribs and even babysitters. Rates include continental breakfast.

Granville Island Hotel (Map; 604-683-7373, 800-663-1840; www.granvilleislandhotel.com; 1253 Johnston St; d from $215; wi-fi) Hugging the waterfront on the quiet eastern tip of Granville Island, this laid-back hotel is characterized by its tranquil west coast ambiance. The rooms have exposed beams and earth-toned walls – the suites with their floor-to-ceiling waterfront views are recommended – and there’s a good on-site brewpub with beers like Johnston Pilsner and Cartwright Pale Ale.

UBC & West Side

Douglas Guest House (Map; 604-872-3060, 888-872-3060; www.dougwin.com; 456 W 13th Ave; r/ste from $75/145) A bright orange-painted home-style B&B in a quiet character neighborhood near City hall, the Douglas offers good rates (especially in winter). Its six rooms – comfortable and traditional rather than antique-lined – include two flowery singles with shared bathrooms, two larger doubles with en suites and two family-friendly suites. The top-floor penthouse has a nice private balcony while the downstairs Garden Suite has a kitchenette.

Shaughnessy Village (Map; 604-736-5511; www.shaughnessyvillage.com; 1125 W 12th Ave; s/d $78.95/88.95; ) Like staying in a 1950s Vegas hotel, this uniquely kitsch sleepover – think pink carpets, flowery sofas and maritime memorabilia – describes itself as a tower-block вЂ˜B&B resort.’ Where else can you find a petrified rock display, a gym with a bum-shaking belt machine and a tree-lined garden with crazy golf? Despite the retro approach, the hotel is perfectly ship-shape, right down to its clean, well-maintained rooms. Like boat cabins, they’re lined with wooden cupboards and include microwaves, refrigerators and tiny en suites. Extras include cooked breakfasts, an outdoor pool, large laundry and an on-site hairdresser where you can book that beehive hairdo you always wanted.

Vancouver School of Theology, Iona Hotel (Map; 604-822-9031, 888-822-9031; www.vst.edu/housing/hotel.php; 6000 Iona Dr; d/ste $85/170; wi-fi) This historic college building on the UBC campus has been recently renovated and now offers good-value accommodations suitable for everyone from singles to small families. The standard rooms, complete with IKEA-esque furnishings, all have fridges and en suites, while the larger two-bedroom suites have handy kitchenettes. The building has a coffee shop and a coin-operated laundry and there are several UBC restaurants within walking distance.


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EATING

Celebrated for an international diversity that even rival foodie cities like Toronto and Montréal can’t match, Vancouver visitors can fill up on great ethnic dishes before they even start on the region’s flourishing west coast cuisine. To sample the best, just combine both approaches: try some of North America’s finest sushi for lunch, then sample Fraser Valley duck or Vancouver Island lamb for a sophisticated dinner. Whatever you choose, don’t miss the seafood – it’s BC’s greatest culinary asset.

With the city in the midst of a restaurant renaissance – barely a week goes by without a new eatery launching itself on the scene – you can tap into the latest vibe with the online reviews at www.urbandiner.ca or pick up a free copy of either Eat Magazine or City Food.

Downtown

Templeton (Map; 604-685-4612; 1087 Granville St; mains $6-11; 9am-11pm Mon-Wed, 9am-1am Thu-Sun) A funky chrome-and-vinyl 1950s diner with a twist, Templeton chefs up organic burgers, fair trade coffee, vegetarian sausages and perhaps the best breakfast in town (served until 3pm). Sadly, the mini jukeboxes on the tables don’t work but you can console yourself with a waistline-busting chocolate ice-cream float.

Culinaria Restaurant (Map; 604-639-2055; 609 Granville St; mains $8-24; 11:30am-2pm Mon-Fri, 5:30-10pm Tue-Sat) The training restaurant for the Dubrulle Culinary Arts program, this dining spot in the center of the downtown shopping district focuses on west coast cuisine. Support the cooking and wait staff students as they try to learn the tricks of the trade: the menu changes every week and, if you don’t want to gamble on dinner, the lunch menu is a good deal with sandwiches, pastas and salads mostly under $10.

Sanafir (Map; 604-678-1049; 1026 Granville St; mains from $14; 5pm-midnight) A beacon among Granville’s grubby sex shops, Sanafir is a loungey, Bedouin-themed eatery dripping with North African style. But it’s not all about looks. The menu’s small plates are designed for sharing and range from wine-braised short ribs to Indian-spiced scallops. Head to the decadent mezzanine level where you can lie down and feed like a king.

Metro (Map; 604-662-3463; 200 Burrard St; mains $14-38; 11am-10pm) This new eatery near the foot of Burrard St offers a galloping romp through contemporary Canadian fusion cuisine but its unusual pay-by-the-ounce approach to dishes can be pricey if you want to try a few different flavors. If you’re put off by the giant 50-item selection, head to the oyster bar and shuck your way through a few, complemented by a fruity bottle of BC wine.

Nu (Map; 604-646-4668; 1661 Granville St; mains $16-24; 11am-1am Mon-Fri, 10:30am-1am Sat, 10:30am-midnight Sun) An attractive waterfront location and a funky 1970s interior makes this feel like the set of an old Cinzano Bianco advert. Encouraging diners to be adventurous and share the unfamiliar French-influenced dishes with their friends, highlights here include tempura-battered olives and duck confit with liquefied foie gras. Don’t forget to try a few cocktails as well, preferably on the sunset-viewing deck.

C Restaurant (Map; 604-681-1164; 1600 Howe St; mains $18-46; 5:30-11pm) This pioneering west coast seafood restaurant overlooking False Creek isn’t cheap but its revelatory approach to fish and shellfish makes it probably the city’s best seafood dine-out. Scallops wrapped in octopus bacon and served with foie gras is a signature, deceptively uncomplicated dishes of side stripe prawns and Queen Charlotte scallops are highly recommended. Chef Rob Clark spearheads a local drive against farmed salmon and only uses superior-tasting wild sockeye.

West End

Asahi-Ya (Map; 604-688-8777; 1230 Robson St; mains $6-10; 11:30am-10pm) You’ll be rubbing shoulders with Asian language students who know a good deal when they see one at this friendly and decidedly unpretentious Japanese diner. Good-value sushi and sashimi classics are fresh and well presented but it’s the hearty cooked combo meals – especially the sizzling chicken teriyaki – that will bring you back for more.

Spice Alley (Map; 604-685-4468; 1333 Robson St; mains $8-14; 5pm-2am) Another popular language-student hangout – especially due to its late-night hours – this chatty Korean eatery often has a line-up winding along Robson. The animated youngsters come for the laid-back vibe and ever-popular spicy chicken stir-fry signature but the squid alternative is also recommended if you fancy something different.

Lift Bar & Grill (Map; 604-689-5438; 333 Menchions Mews; mains $17-23; 11:30am-midnight Mon-Fri, 11am-midnight Sat & Sun) Hanging over the seawall in Coal Harbour near Stanley Park, Lift serves unrivalled views of the verdant rainforest and mist-cloaked mountains from its wraparound windows and heated deck. If you can pull yourself away from the vistas, dip into gourmet comfort dishes like bison strip loin and prosciutto-wrapped salmon.

Raincity Grill (Map; 604-685-7337; 1193 Denman St; mains $20-30; 11:30am-2:30pm, 5-10pm Mon-Fri, 10:30am-2:30pm & 5-10pm Sat & Sun) This excellent English Bay restaurant was sourcing and serving unique BC ingredients long before the fashion for Fanny Bay oysters and Salt Spring Island lamb took hold. It’s a great showcase for fine west coast cuisine: the $30 three-course tasting menu (served between 5pm and 6pm) is an absolute bargain and the weekend brunch here is a local legend. If you’re on the move, drop by the takeout window and pick up a gourmet $10 sandwich for your jaunt around nearby Stanley Park.

Cin Cin Ristorante (Map; 604-688-7338; 1154 Robson St; mains $22-36; 5-11pm) Tuscan ambience fused with west coast sophistication means a host of homesick Hollywood movie stars keep coming back to this convivial high-end Italian eatery. If they’re not gorging on alder-smoked wild salmon pizza, they’re salivating over local fish and game prepared in a simple yet always elegant manner. Reservations recommended, especially if you want to sit on the patio with the likes of Halle Berry and Robin Williams.

Yaletown

Gorilla Food (Map; 604-722-2504; 422 Richards St; mains $4-7.50; 11am-6pm Mon-Fri) More guerrilla than gorilla, this tiny hole-in-the-wall takeout is a pilgrimage spot for raw-food devotees. Mimicking the diet of its namesake, nothing is cooked, leading to innovative treats like crunchy lasagna (strips of zucchini substitute for pasta) and pizza made from a dehydrated-seed crust and topped with tomato sauce, tenderized zucchini and mashed avocado. Save room for an icy almond shake dessert.

La Bodega (Map; 604-684-8814; 1277 Howe St; mains $5-11; 4:30pm-midnight Mon-Fri, 5pm-midnight Saturday, 5-11pm Sun) It’s all about the tasting plates at this authentic, country-style Spanish tapas bar. Pull up a chair, order a jug of sangria and decide on a few shareable treats from the extensive menu – if you’re feeling spicy, the chorizo sausage hits the spot and the Spanish meatballs are justifiably popular. There’s a great atmosphere here so don’t be surprised if you find yourself staying for more than a few hours.

Glowbal Grill & Satay Bar (Map; 604-602-0835; 1079 Mainland St; mains $14-26; 11:30am-midnight Mon-Fri, 10:30am-midnight Sat & Sun) Hip but unpretentious, this often clamorous restaurant has a comfortable loungelike feel and a menu of classy dishes fusing west coast ingredients with Asian and Mediterranean flourishes. The grilled halibut, served with scampi butter, Dungeness crab and roasted tomato risotto, is hard to beat but save room for some finger-licking satay-stick chasers or a strong QuГ©becois ale in the backroom lounge.

Goldfish Pacific Kitchen (Map; 604-689-8318; 1118 Mainland St; mains $14-30; 4-11pm) Don’t be blinded by the dazzling blue marble bar and bustling open kitchen at this bold new eatery; it’s the menu that should catch the eye. Fusing west coast seafood with gentle Asian nudges – delivering treats like roast halibut with pea leaf and coconut-pineapple sauce – this is worth a night out if you’re looking for an alternative to the regular Pacific Northwest salmon dinner.

Blue Water Café (Map; 604-688-8078; 1095 Hamilton St; mains $22-44; 5pm-midnight) Vancouver’s best oyster bar also serves excellent sushi and an array of lovingly simple seafood dishes in a warm brick-and-beam dining room. If you feel like an adventure, head straight to the semicircular raw bar and watch the chef’s whirling blades prepare delectable sushi and sashimi, served with the restaurant’s signature soya-seaweed dipping sauce.

Gastown & Chinatown

Mouse & the Bean Café (Map; 604-633-1781; 207 W Hastings St; mains $4-12; noon-6pm Mon-Thu, noon-8pm Fri & Sat) Tucked under the Dominion Building, you’ll find this great-value family-run Mexican joint. Everything – including the salsa and refried beans – is lovingly made in-house and the prices are eye-opening low, which probably explains why the floor is still unfinished concrete. With lots of vegetarian options, try the feastlike Plato Mixteco if you want to share.

Salt Tasting Room (Map; 604-633-1912; Blood Alley; mains $5-15; noon-midnight) Located along a darkened nook off Carrall St, this brick-lined wine bar and charcuterie is a protein-lover’s delight with a deceptively simple approach. Pull up a bar stool at the long table and choose from the blackboard of cured meats and local cheeses, accompanied by a glass or two of great wine. Restoring the social aspect to dining, the warm room is usually noisy with chat by the end of the night.

Hon’s Wun-Tun House (Map; 604-688-0871; 268 E Keefer St; mains $6-18; 11am-11pm Sun-Thu, 11am-midnight Sat & Sun) Vancouver’s favorite Chinese restaurant minichain, Hon’s flagship Chinatown branch is suffused with inviting cooking smells. Dishes range from satisfying dim sum to steaming wonton soup bowls, bobbing with juicy dumplings. Try the congee rice porridge: a fancy-free soul food dish that takes three hours to prepare and comes in seafood, chicken and beef varieties.

Wild Rice (Map; 604-642-2882; 117 W Pender St; mains $10-18; 11:30am-midnight Mon-Thu, 11:30am-1am Fri, 5pm-midnight Sat & Sun) A loungey, minimalist reinvention of the traditional Chinese restaurant, Wild Rice fuses classic dishes with unexpected culinary influences from around the world. Wild boar with jasmine rice and plantain chips is particularly recommended, as is the comprehensive martini list. This is a popular late-night hangout on Fridays and Saturdays.



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DON’T MISS



Fuel – seasonal regional cuisine Click here

Gastropod – creative, mostly organic fine dining Click here

Goldfish Pacific Kitchen – west coast, Asian-influenced seafood (left)

Metro – contemporary Canadian fusion cuisine Click here

Social at Le Magasin – Pacific northwest menu plus takeout (above)





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Social at Le Magasin (Map; 604-669-4488; 332 Water St; mains $22-28; 11am-midnight Mon-Fri, 10:30am-midnight Sat, 10:30am-10pm Sun) The downstairs oyster bar will entice you through the door but the upstairs dining room with its ornate tin ceiling is worth the climb. Recommended for brunch – try the duck-confit eggs Benedict – it’s also a comfortable dinner spot with west coast specials including a mouthwatering lamb shank. If you’re on the run, the on-site deli serves bulging gourmet sandwiches ($4 to $9) and heaping bowls of pulled-pork chili ($4).

South Main (SoMa) & Commercial Drive

Foundation (Map; 604-708-0881; 2301 Main St; mains $6-12; 5pm-1am) SoMa’s liveliest hangout, this funky vegetarian (mostly vegan) restaurant is the kind of place where artsy students and chin-stroking young intellectuals like to be seen. To fuel all that brainpower, dishes include adventurous treats like mango-and-coconut pasta and the beer comes from regional fave Storm Brewing, all served on the eatery’s signature mismatched Formica tables.

Charlatan (Map; 604-253-2777; 1446 Commercial Dr; mains $6-16; 11:30am-midnight) Reflecting a recent dine-and-drink resurgence on вЂ˜the Drive’, this laid-back pub-style hangout caters to myriad tastes. Sports fans can perch at the bar under the flat-screen TVs to catch a game; drinkers – the Big Rock Traditional Ale is recommended – can hit the patio to watch the buzzing streetscape; and diners can chow down upstairs on comfort food like crab cakes with avocado salsa and mussels in exotic broths.

Nyala (Map; 604-876-9919; 4148 Main St; mains $8-16; 5:30-11pm Tue-Sun) Served in traditional clay pots made by the owner, the signature dish at this colorful African eatery is mafe, a spicy Creole-style chicken-and-vegetable creation that features a warming fusion of tomato, okra, coriander and hot chili. If you’re feeling more adventurous, sample the Ethiopian slow-cooked goat stew and drop by on Thursday when live music fills the room.

Havana (Map; 604-253-9119; 1212 Commercial Dr; mains $10-20; 11am-11pm Mon-Thu, 10am-midnight Fri, 9am-midnight Sat & Sun) The granddaddy of Commercial Dr has still got it, hence its teeming patio on most summer nights. Combining a rustic Latin American ambiance with a roster of satisfying Afro-Cuban-Southern soul-food dishes, highlights range from yam fries to slow-roasted lamb curry and a shellfish platter of clams, mussels and oysters. Arrive early for dinner or you’ll be fighting the crowds.

Granville Island

Go Fish (Map; 604-730-5040; 1505 W 1st Ave; mains $8-13; 11:30am-6:30pm Wed-Fri, noon-6:30pm Sat & Sun) On the amble-friendly seawall between Granville Island and Vanier Park, this waterfront shack serves Vancouver’s best fresh-caught fish and chips, along with excellent wild salmon tacos, scallop burgers and ahi tuna sandwiches. Favored by in-the-know locals, hence the frequent line-ups, all dishes are made to order and include house-chopped coleslaw. There’s not much seating – although it’s nice to perch on a stool facing the waterfront towers of north False Creek – so take your grub to nearby Vanier Park for a sunset dine-out.

Dockside Restaurant & Dockside Brewing Company (Map; 604-685-7070; 1253 Johnston St; mains $14-26; 7am-10pm) Wood-grilled steaks and grilled wild salmon are among the highlights in the dining room here at the Granville Island Hotel, but you can also kick back and enjoy a more casual (and less pricey) meal in the adjoining microbrew lounge. Both rooms have an intimate, wood-lined feel with their shared waterfront patio becoming a chatty al fresco hangout on most summer evenings.

Sandbar (Map; 604-669-9030; 1535 Johnston St; mains $18-35; 11:30am-11pm Sun-Thu, 11:30am-midnight Fri & Sat) West coast seafood dominates at this adult-oriented, high-ceilinged view restaurant under Granville St Bridge. The oysters, best enjoyed on the rooftop deck, are recommended and the 1800-strong wine list is something to write home about. Live music is served up Thursday to Saturday when the urban professionals drop by and loosen their ties.

Kitsilano & West Side

Naam (Map; 604-738-7151; 2724 W 4th Ave; mains $7-14; 24hr) Luring city vegetarians for 30 years, this casual 24-hour Kits eatery still has the ambiance of a cozy hippy hangout. But the menu and weekend brunch queues show that these guys mean business, encouraging legions of repeat diners who keep coming back for stuffed quesadillas, hearty Farmers Breakfasts and sesame-fried potatoes with miso gravy. Live music is a nightly fixture and there’s a convivial covered patio.

Sophie’s Cosmic Café (Map; 604-732-6810; 2095 W 4th Ave; mains $6-14; 8am-9:30pm) A local legend for nearly 20 years, Sophie’s is one of Vancouver’s best breakfast and weekend brunch spots. The memorabilia-lined diner ambiance only adds to the taste of the great eggs Benedict but, if you’re not here early enough, you may have a long wait for your greasy hangover cure. Consider coming back later in the day for a slice of mountain-sized apple pie.

Gastropod (Map; 604-730-5579; 1938 West 4th Ave; mains $24-32; noon-2:30pm Wed-Sat, 5:30-10:30pm daily) Part of the new restaurant renaissance sweeping Kits, this striking wood-lined contemporary dining room is the prefect setting for a modern, French-tweaked menu. Surprisingly well priced despite its high-end flourishes, its highlights are delectable and mostly organic meat and fish dishes, including an unusual oyster-and-horseradish вЂ˜snow’ creation.

Fuel (Map; 604-288-7905; 1944 W 4th Ave; mains $27-34; noon-2:30pm Mon-Fri, 5:30-10:30pm daily) Despite the utilitarian name, this seminal Kits eatery sources exceptional regional ingredients and transforms them with a knowing cosmopolitan flair and expert service. Everything is seasonal, so expect regular menu changes – if you’re lucky, the crispy rainbow trout with sidestripe shrimp ravioli will be available. If not, console yourself with some Okanagan cherry tart.

LumiГЁre (Map; 604-739-8185; 2551 W Broadway; mains $18-45; 5:30-11pm Tue-Sun) A repeat offender in the вЂ˜best Vancouver restaurant’ stakes, this stylish eatery from Rob Feenie – the city’s most famed chef – deploys deceptively unfussy preparations to create an array of French-inspired, Asian-brushed masterpieces. Choose from mouthwatering mains like sake-and-maple-syrup–baked sablefish or loosen your belt and launch into one of the three multicourse tasting menus (from $110).

Tojo’s (Map; 604-872-8050; 1133 W Broadway; mains $16-26; 5-10pm Mon-Sat) Hidekazu Tojo’s legendary skill with the sushi knife has created one of North America’s most revered sushi restaurants. Among his exquisite dishes are favorites like lightly steamed monkfish, sautéed halibut cheeks and fried red tuna wrapped with seaweed and served with plum sauce. The maplewood sushi bar seats here are more sought-after than a couple of front-row Stanley Cup tickets, so reserve as early as possible and make sure you sample a selection or two from the sake menu.


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DRINKING

Distinctive new lounges and pubs are springing up in Vancouver like persistent drunks at an open bar. Wherever you end up drinking, check out some of the region’s excellent craft brews, including ales and lagers from Nelson, Granville Island and Crannóg breweries.

Bars & Nightclubs

Bar None (Map; 604-684-3044; 1222 Hamilton St; 9pm-2am Mon-Thu, 9pm-3am Fri & Sat) Yaletown’s favorite haunt for young professionals has a scrubbed beatnik appearance, but within its exposed-brick and beam shell the main topic of conversation is perfect cocktails and real-estate prices. The great and good come to sip alongside live soul music on Monday and Tuesday, while Thursday to Saturday combines house and Top 40 tunes on the dance floor.

Calling (Map; 604-801-6681; 1780 Davie St; 11am-2am Mon-Fri, 10am-2am Sat, 10am-midnight Sun) A small but swanky reinvention of the neighborhood pub – think silky hardwood floors, mod furnishings and black-clad wait staff. The main draw here is the slender covered patio overlooking English Bay: it’s perfect for sunsets and storm-watching. Serves gourmet pub grub like smoky-bacon-and-gorgonzola burgers alongside exotic European brews like Belgian cherry beer.

Honey (Map; 604-685-777; 455 Abbott St; noon-late) A refreshing alternative to the Granville St party rabble, this resto-lounge venue transforms into a club on weekends and is especially renowned for its Friday-night Mod Club, when a welcoming and pretense-free crowd of young coolsters dresses up for a night of pop-soul-and-everything-else partying. Good drinks specials, too.

Republic (Map; 604-669-3266; 958 Granville St; 6pm-3am Sun-Wed, 4pm-3am Thu-Sat) The city’s best new club combines a stylish high-ceilinged ground floor with a dramatic backlit bar and a hopping upstairs dance floor dripping with grinding bodies – especially on weekends when the Granville strip turns into a carnival of all-night partyers. You can watch over the anarchy unfolding outside from Republic’s glass-encased patio.

Shine (Map; 604-408-4321; 364 Water St; 9pm-2am) With music from electro to funky house and hip-hop, Gastown’s subterranean Shine attracts a younger crowd and is divided into a noisy main room and an intimate cozy cave with a 40ft chill-out sofa. The club’s Saturday night вЂ˜Big Sexy Funk’ (hip-hop and rock) is a local legend but Thursday’s 1990s retro night appeals to all those ancient 25-year-old hipsters out there (you know who you are).

Lounges

Afterglow (Map; 604-602-0835; 1082 Hamilton St; 11:30am-midnight) Tucked at the back of Yaletown’s Glowbal Grill & Satay Bar, the city’s tiniest lounge is an intimate, pink-hued room lined with naked women – at least, their silhouettes appear on the walls. Pull up a vinyl block stool and experiment with cocktails like You Glow Girl and Pink Pussycat or knock yourself out with a few bottles of ultrastrong Québecois beer – then try to remember where your hotel is.

Alibi Room (Map; 604-623-3383; 157 Alexander St; 5pm-midnight Mon-Thu, 4:30pm-2am Fri, 10am-2am Sat & Sun) It’s all about great conversation at this edge-of-Gastown spot, where the design and film industries crowds congregate at long tables or hunker down in the low-ceilinged basement to bitch about work. A comfort food menu perfectly matches the drinks selection of fortifying martinis.

George Ultra Lounge (Map; 604-628-5555; 1137 Hamilton St; 4pm-2am Mon-Sat) One of hedonistic Yaletown’s favorite haunts, the moodily-lit George attracts the laser-whitened-teeth crowd with its giant list of high-concept cocktails – anyone for a Sazerac, featuring bourbon in an вЂ˜absinthe-washed glass’? Work your way down the list, sink further into your comfy chair and try to figure out what the giant swirly glass thing above the bar is supposed to be.

Pubs

Irish Heather (Map; 604-688-9779; 217 Carrall St; noon-midnight) Vancouver’s best traditional pub, the Heather is an unpretentious labyrinth of brick-lined rooms and a cozy rear conservatory serving properly poured Guinness and great gourmet pub grub. Warm up in winter with a restorative Hot Irish, a concoction of whisky, lemon, cloves, sugar and boiling water, or head straight for the hidden Shebeen Whisky House out back, complete with the city’s largest malt selection. Both bars were planning a possible move across the street on our visit.

Seventy Two Sports Bar (Map; 604-646-4031; 1025 Robson St; 11:30am-11pm) Right in the heart of Robson St, you can pull up a patio chair on the 2nd floor here and still hear the chatty shoppers shuffling past below. Head inside if you want to catch a game at a booth with its own built-in TV or stay outside and combine good-quality pub grub (try the chicken quesadillas) with a full complement of local Russell Brewing beers – the cream ale is recommended.

Six Acres (Map; 604-488-0110; 203 Carrall St; noon-midnight Tue-Thu, noon-1am Fri & Sat) A convivial brick-lined nook capturing the spirit of what a chatty pub should feel like and fusing it with some knowing quirky flourishes – hence the menus enclosed by used book covers and the bathrooms playing old language tapes. Excellent beer selection – try the Draft Dodger from Phillips Brewing – and inspired pub grub like the Berlin, a shareable plate of cheese and sausage.

Steamworks Brewing Co (Map; 604-689-2739; 375 Water St; 11:30am-midnight Sun-Wed; 11:30am-1am Thu-Sat) A giant Gastown microbrewery in a cavernous converted brick warehouse. The signature beer here is Lions Gate Lager, a good summer tipple. A favorite place for the city’s after-work crowd, the pubby downstairs can get noisy while the upstairs is all about serene views across to the North Shore. The menu is packed with pub standards, but the pizzas are a stand-out.


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ENTERTAINMENT

Pick up the Georgia Straight or West Coast Life section of the Vancouver Sun – both out on Thursdays – to tap into local happenings. Tickets for many events are available from Ticketmaster (performing arts 604-280-3311, concerts 604-280-4444, sports 604-280-4400; www.ticketmaster.ca) but Tickets Tonight (Map, 604-684-2787; www.ticketstonight.ca) in the Tourism Info Centre also sells half-price day-of-entry tickets to many events.

Live Music

The city’s most authentic live music venue, the Railway Club (Map; 604-681-1625; www.therailwayclub.com; 579 Dunsmuir St; most shows $4-10; noon-2am Mon-Thu, noon-3am Fri & Sat, 4pm-midnight Sun) combines a grungy Brit-pub feel with an eclectic nightly roster of indie, folk, punk, soul and everything in between. Drafts from BC-favorites Granville Island Brewing and Okanagan Spring dominate the bar, served in traditional dimpled glasses.



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WHAT THE…?

A shimmering 18,000 neon signs illuminated Vancouver in the 1950s – one for every 19 residents. At the time, pilots considered it the best-lit city in North America. Head along Granville St and you’ll see that neon is making a comeback in the city’s traditional entertainment district.





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It’s a similar crowd over at the dark and intimate Media Club (Map; 604-608-2871; www.themediaclub.ca; 695 Cambie St; most shows $5-20), where acts range from indie to acoustic metal to rap.

The city’s best mid-sized venue, the Art Deco Commodore (Map; 604-739-4550; 868 Granville St; most shows $20-35) is an old but lovingly renovated upstairs ballroom. Complete with a bouncy dance floor, it showcases great visiting bands and the best in local talent.

Across the street, the Plaza Club (Map604-646-0064; www.plazaclub.net; 881 Granville St; most shows $5-25) has added an expanding roster of live music shows to its regular nightclub duties. The venue hosts a varied array of rising and smaller visiting talent.

Blues fans should head along Granville to the Yale (Map; 604-681-9253; www.theyale.ca; 1300 Granville St; most shows $10-25; 11:30am-2am Mon-Thu & Sun, to 3am Fri & Sat), a blowsy, unpretentious joint with a large stage, devoted clientele and a beer-sticky dance floor. Chin-stroking jazz nuts might instead find themselves drawn to the subterranean Cellar Restaurant & Jazz Club (Map; 604-738-1959; www.cellarjazz.com; 3611 W Broadway; most shows $5-15; 8pm-midnight Mon-Wed, 7pm-midnight Thu-Sun) where serious tunes are reverentially performed.

Theater & Cinemas

Mainstream live theater in the city is staged primarily at downtown’s Vancouver Playhouse (Map; 604-873-3311; www.vancouverplayhouse.com; cnr Hamilton & Dunsmuir Sts; tickets $40-55), which presents a six-play season at its large civic venue in the Queen Elizabeth Theatre complex.

Popular world classics and works by contemporary Canadian playwrights are also part of the mix offered by the Arts Club Theatre Company (604-687-1644; www.artsclub.com; tickets $30-60), which performs at the Granville Island Stage (Map; 1585 Johnston St) and Stanley Theatre (Map; 2750 Granville St).

Those looking for more challenging fare might prefer the Firehall Arts Centre (Map; 604-689-0926; www.firehallartscentre.ca; 280 E Cordova St; tickets $15-30), an intimate studio venue where вЂ˜difficult’ works are presented to an artsy crowd.

For multiplex movie fans, the Scotiabank Theatre (Map; 604-630-1407; www.cineplex.com; 900 Burrard St; tickets $11.95) is a magnet for the latest blockbusters. Mixing its own blockbuster offerings with festival flicks, Tinseltown Cinemas (Map; 604-806-0799; www.cinemark.com; 88 W Pender St; tickets $10.75) is another downtown favorite.

Alternative movie buffs can hit the Vancity International Film Centre (Map; 604-683-3456; www.viff.org; 1181 Seymour St; tickets $9.50) or the older Pacific Cinèmathéque (Map; 604-688-3456; www.cinematheque.bc.ca; 1131 Howe St; tickets $9.50). In contrast, Canada Place’s CN Imax Theatre (Map; 604-682-4629; www.imax.com/vancouver; 201-999 Canada Place; tickets $12) screens worthy documentaries and the occasional reformatted blockbuster.

Classical Music & Dance

Often setting up shop at the beautiful Orpheum Theatre (Map; 604-876-3434; 601 Smithe St; tickets $25-60), the city’s Vancouver Symphony Orchestra (www.vancouversymphony.ca) fuses complex and stirring recitals with crossover shows of movie music, opera and even Shakespearean sonnets.

The innovative Scotiabank Dance Centre (Map; 604-606-6400; www.thedancecentre.ca; 677 Davie St; tickets from $10) is the home of BC’s dance community, staging entertaining and often challenging recitals by professional and student dancers. Ballet BC (604-732-5003; www.balletbc.com) is headquartered here and frequently performs at the venue when not on tour.

Sports

The Vancouver Canucks (604-899-4600; www.canucks.com) NHL hockey team is the city’s leading sports franchise. Book your seat at their GM Place (Map; 604-899-7469; www.canucks.com; tickets $33-94; Oct-Apr) home way in advance – most games are sold to capacity.

If you’re out of luck with the Canucks, the Western Hockey League’s Vancouver Giants (604-444-2687; www.vancouvergiants.com; Pacific Coliseum, 100 N Renfrew St; tickets $21.50-23.50; Oct–mid-Mar) is a good-value alternative. They play at the Pacific Coliseum, east of downtown.

Canadian Football League (CFL) side BC Lions (604-589-7627; www.bclions.com; BC Place Stadium; tickets $27-70; Jun-Oct) strut their stuff at downtown’s covered BC Place Stadium (Click here). Tickets are generally easy to come by – unless they’re closing in on the Grey Cup, last won in 2006.

For a nostalgic (and cheap) afternoon of baseball and beer in plastic cups, it’s hard to beat a Vancouver Canadians (604-872-5232; www.canadiansbaseball.com; Nat Bailey Stadium; tickets $8-12.50; mid-Jun–mid-Sep) game at the recently renovated Nat Bailey Stadium (Map).

And if you want to see the Vancouver Whitecaps (604-669-9283; www.whitecapsfc.com; Swangard Stadium, Burnaby; tickets $16-35; May-Sep) Western League soccer team before they head to their proposed new downtown stadium, you’ll have to hit the Sky Train to Burnaby and their old Swangard Stadium venue (Map).


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SHOPPING

While Robson St is fine if you’re looking for chain fashion stores of the American Eagle and Banana Republic variety, its intersection with Granville St throws up some pricey designer boutiques from the likes of Puma and Adidas. If you prefer an edgier look, it’s hard to beat the quirky SoMa boutiques between 19th and 23rd Aves (Map). For window-shopping, Granville Island, South Granville (especially from Broadway onwards) and Kitsilano’s 4th Ave usually hit the spot. Gastown is increasingly joining the independent designer fray but it’s also dripping with souvenir stores if you really must buy that Steam Clock T-shirt or bag of chocolate вЂ˜moose droppings.’

Clothing

Eugene Choo (Map; 604-873-8874; 3683 Main St; 11am-5:30pm Mon-Sat, noon-6pm Sun) Behind the double-fronted, blue-painted exterior of this Main St favorite beats the heart of a store that reflects the emergence of this area as Vancouver’s hip-clothing capital. Once a grungy vintage store, it’s now a hotbed of local designer duds for the city’s pale and interesting slim-fit set.

John Fluevog Shoes (Map; 604-688-2828; 837 Granville St; 11am-7pm Mon-Wed & Sat, 11am-8pm Thu & Fri, noon-6pm Sun) While some of the footwear looks like Doc Martens on acid and others could poke your eye out from 20 paces, many of Fluevog’s funky shoes also have a reduced вЂ˜green footprint.’ Check out the synthetic vegetarian shoes and the completely biodegradable вЂ˜Earth Angels’ range.

Mountain Equipment Co-op (Map; 604-872-7858; 130 W Broadway; 10am-7pm Mon-Wed, 10am-9pm Thu & Fri, 9am-6pm Sat, 11am-5pm Sun) Outdoorsy visitors usually gravitate towards this gear-store mecca, stuffed with clothing, kayaks, sleeping bags, clever camping gadgets and a respectable array of regional and international travel books. You’ll have to be a lifetime member to buy, but that’s easy to arrange and only costs $5.

Smoking Lily (Map; 604-873-5459; 3634 Main St; 11am-5:30pm Thu-Sat, noon-5pm Sun & Mon) Quirky art-student cool is the approach at this SoMa store, where skirts, belts and halter tops are whimsically accented with prints of ants, skulls or the Periodic Table, making their wearers appear interesting and complex. Men’s clothing is slowly creeping in to the mix, with some fish-, skull- and bird-sketch T-shirts available. It’s a fun spot to browse and the staff is friendly and chatty.

Markets

Chinatown Night Market (Map; 604-682-8998; www.vcma.shawbiz.ca; 100-200 Keefer St; 6:30-11pm Fri-Sun mid-May–mid-Sep) This colorful downtown evening bazaar lures locals with its sensory combination of cheap trinkets, knock-off designer goods and aromatic hawker food – it’s like a walk-through buffet of noodles, fish balls and bubble tea. There’s also a live music stage on most nights.



* * *



OLYMPICS COUNTDOWN

During research for this book, Vancouver was feverishly renovating existing sites or building new venues for the 2010 Olympic and Paralympic Winter Games (www.vancouver2010.com). These sites include BC Place, which will host the opening and closing ceremonies as well as nightly medal presentations; Pacific Coliseum in Hastings Park, which will host figure skating, short-track and speed-skating; the UBC Winter Sports Centre, which will host hockey and Paralympic sledge hockey; Hillcrest Curling Centre, which will host curling and wheelchair curling; GM Place, which will host ice hockey; Cypress Mountain, which will host freestyle skiing and snowboard; and the Richmond Speed Skating Oval, which will be the home of long-track speed-skating. Other events will take place in and around Whistler.





* * *



Granville Island Public Market (Map; 604-666-6477; www.granvilleisland.com; Johnson St; 9am-7pm) Towering peaks of fruit and veg dominate at the city’s leading covered market, which also acts as a great picnic-foraging spot if you trawl the deli stands and tempting bakeries. There’s a good food court here if you don’t have time for a picnic, and there are also many temporary stalls hawking quirky arts and crafts.

UBC Farm Market (Map; 604-822-5092; 6182 South Campus Rd; 9am-1pm Sat mid-Jun–Sep) A tasty cornucopia of regional BC farm produce hits the stalls here in summer. Highlights can include crunchy apples, lush peaches and juicy blueberries; home-baked cakes and treats are frequent accompaniments. There are additional summer markets throughout the city at Nelson Park, Kitsilano Community Centre, Trout Lake and Nat Bailey Stadium – check www.eatlocal.org for info on these.

Vancouver Flea Market (Map; 604-685-0666; www.vancouverfleamarket.com; 703 Terminal Ave; admission 75c; 9am-5pm Sat & Sun) If sifting through boxes of dusty LPs or trying on authentic 1970s trucker baseball caps is your thing, the giant, musty-smelling Vancouver Flea Market is the place for you. Its barnlike venue near the Main St SkyTrain station houses dozens of semiprofessional and amateur hawkers, giving it the feel of a sprawling indoor garage sale.

Specialty Items

Coastal Peoples Fine Arts Gallery (Map; 604-685-9298; 1024 Mainland St; 10am-7pm Mon-Sat, 11am-6pm Sun) This sumptuous Yaletown store houses a fine selection of Northwest Coast and Inuit aboriginal jewelry, carvings and prints. Focusing on the arts-end of native crafts, you’ll find some exquisite items here that will likely have your credit card sweating within minutes.

Dream Designs (Map; 604-254-5012; 956 Commercial Dr; 10am-6pm Mon-Sat, 11:30am-5pm Sun) Visiting greenies will enjoy dipping into this small organic home store that sells everything from yoga knick knacks to linen pajamas and hemp bed-sheets. Check out the local pottery selection and enjoy a calming chat with the staff about your favorite natural spa treatments.

Meinhardt Fine Foods (Map; 604-732-4405; 3002 Granville St; 8am-9pm Mon-Sat, 9am-9pm Sun) There’s a great deli and a handy next-door takeout service at this South Granville cuisine-lover’s paradise – the culinary equivalent of a sex shop for fine-food fans. Check out the narrow aisles of international condiments, then start building your ideal picnic from the impressive bread, cheese and cold-cuts selection.

Mink Chocolates (Map; 604-633-2451; 863 W Hastings St; 8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun) Avoid the usual Canuck souvenirs of maple-syrup cookies and vacuum-packed salmon at this decadent designer chocolate shop in the downtown core. Trouble is, once you’ve selected a handful of choccy bonbons – little edible artworks embossed with prints of trees and coffee cups – you’ll be lured to the drinks bar for a velvety hot chocolate. Next stop: years of addiction therapy.


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GETTING THERE & AWAY

Air

Vancouver International Airport (Map; 604-207-7077; www.yvr.ca) is the main west coast hub for airlines from Canada, the US and international locales. It’s in Richmond, a 13km/30-minute drive from downtown.

Intra-Canada flights include regular Westjet (800-538-5696; www.westjet.com) services from Calgary ($160, 90 minutes) and Air Canada Jazz (514-393-3333, 888-247-2262; www.aircanada.com) services from Victoria (from $91, 25 minutes). Linked to the main airport by shuttle bus, the South Terminal receives BC-only flights from smaller airlines and floatplane operators.

Several handy floatplane services can also deliver you directly to the Vancouver waterfront’s Seaplane Terminal in 35 minutes. These include frequent Harbour Air Seaplanes (604-274-1277, 800-665-0212; www.harbour-air.com; $120) and West Coast Air (604-606-6888, 800-347-2222; www.westcoastair.com; $119) services from Victoria’s centrally-located Inner Harbour.

Boat

BC Ferries (250-386-3431, 888-223-3779; www.bcferries.com) services arrive at Tsawwassen – an hour outside downtown – from Vancouver Island’s Swartz Bay (passenger/vehicle $10.55/35, 90 minutes, eight to 12 daily) and Nanaimo’s Duke Point (passenger/vehicle $10.55/35, two hours, six to 10 daily). Services also arrive here from the Southern Gulf Islands.

Additional ferries arrive at West Vancouver’s Horseshoe Bay – 30 minutes from downtown – from Nanaimo’s Departure Bay (passenger/vehicle $10.55/35, 90 minutes, eight to 12 daily). Services also arrive here from Bowen Island (passenger/vehicle $7.10/22.40, 20 minutes, 13-16 daily) and from Langdale (passenger/vehicle $9.60/34, 40 minutes, eight to 12 daily) on the Sunshine Coast.

Bus

Most out-of-town buses grind to a halt at Vancouver’s Pacific Central Station (Map; 1150 Station St).

Greyhound Canada (800-661-8747; www.grey hound.ca) services arrive here from Whistler ($18.80, 2½ hours, eight daily), Kelowna (from $30, six hours, seven daily) and Calgary (from $70, 14 to 17 hours, six daily) among others. Traveling via the BC Ferries Swartz Bay–Tsawwassen route, frequent Pacific Coach Lines (250-385-4411, 800-661-1725; www.pacificcoach.com) services trundle in here from downtown Victoria ($37.50, 3½ hours).

Perimeter Tours (604-266-5386, 877-317-7788; www.perimeterbus.com) services arrive in the city from Whistler ($67, 2ВЅ hours, seven to 11 daily), while a similar winter-only service ($21, 2ВЅ hours, two daily) is operated by Snowbus (604-685-7669, 866-7669-287; www.snowbus.ca).

Quick Coach Lines (604-940-4428, 800-665-2122; www.quickcoach.com) runs an express shuttle between Seattle and Vancouver, departing from downtown Seattle (US$34.20, four hours, six daily) and the city’s Sea-Tac International Airport (US$46.55, 4½ hours, seven daily).

Car & Motorcycle

If you’re coming from Washington State in the US, you’ll be on the I-5 until you hit the border town of Blaine, then on Hwy 99 in Canada. It’s about an hour’s drive from here to downtown Vancouver. Hwy 99 continues through downtown, across the Lions Gate Bridge to Horseshoe Bay, Squamish and Whistler.

If you’re coming from the east, you’ll probably be on the Trans-Canada Hwy (Hwy 1), which snakes through the city’s eastern end, eventually meeting with Hastings St (Map). If you want to go downtown, turn left onto Hastings and follow it into the city center, or continue on along the North Shore toward Whistler.

If you’re coming from Horseshoe Bay, Hwy 1 heads through West Vancouver and North Vancouver before going over the Second Narrows Bridge into Burnaby. If you’re heading downtown, leave the highway at the Taylor Way exit in West Vancouver and follow it over the Lions Gate Bridge toward the city center.

All the recognized car rental chains Click here have Vancouver branches. Avis, Budget, Hertz, Lo-Cost and Thrifty also have airport branches.

Train

Trains trundle in from across Canada and the US at Pacific Central Station (Map; 1150 Station St).

VIA Rail (888-842-7245; www.viarail.com) trains arrive here from Kamloops North ($115, nine hours, three weekly), Jasper ($240, 17ВЅ hours, three weekly) and Edmonton ($325, 24 hours, three weekly) among others.

Amtrak (800-872-7245; www.amtrak.com) US services arrive from Eugene (US$56, 13ВЅ hours, two daily), Portland (US$42, eight hours, three daily) and Seattle (from US$28, 3ВЅ hours, five daily).

Note that only the first service of the day from Seattle is by train, with buses used for the remaining four services.


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GETTING AROUND

To/From the Airport

With the new SkyTrain rapid transit airport line not expected to open until late 2009, budget up to $35 for the 30-minute taxi ride from the airport to downtown Vancouver. Alternatively, the Vancouver Airporter (604-946-8866, 800-668-3141; www.yvrairporter.com; one-way/return $13.50/21; 5:30am-11:45pm) shuttle bus delivers passengers to many city-center hotels (operating hours are reduced in winter).

Bicycle

With routes running across town, Vancouver is a relatively good cycling city. Pick up a Greater Vancouver Cycling Map & Guide ($3.95) at convenience stores and bookshops for area information. Cyclists can take their bikes for free on SkyTrains, SeaBuses and rack-fitted transit buses.

Bike rentals:



Reckless Bike Stores (Map; 604-731-2420; www.rektek.com; 1810 Fir St; half/full-day $25/32.50; 9am-7pm Mon-Sat 10am-6pm Sun May-Aug, 10am-dusk Sep-Apr) Near entrance to Granville Island.

Spokes Bicycle Rental (Map; 604-688-5141; www.vancouverbikerental.com; 1798 W Georgia St; 1hr/6hr adult from $7/20; 9am-7pm May-Aug, 10am-dusk Sep-Apr) One block from Stanley Park’s main entrance.



Boat

Running mini vessels (some big enough to carry bikes) between the foot of Hornby St and Granville Island, Aquabus Ferries (Map; 604-689-5858; www.theaquabus.com; adult/child from $2.50/1.25) services spots along False Creek as far as Science World.

Its cutthroat rival is False Creek Ferries (Map; 604-684-7781; www.granvilleislandferries.bc.ca; adult/child from $2.50/1.25), which operates a similar Granville Island service from the Aquatic Centre, plus additional ports of call around False Creek.

Car & Motorcycle

The rush-hour vehicle line-up to cross the Lions Gate Bridge to the North Shore frequently snakes far up Georgia St. Try the alternative Second Narrows Bridge. Other peak-time hotspots to avoid are the George Massey Tunnel and Hwy 1 to Surrey.

Parking is at a premium downtown: there are few free spots available on residential side streets and traffic wardens are predictably predatory. Some streets have metered parking but pay-parking lots (from $4 per hour) are a better proposition – arrive before 9am at some for early-bird discounts. Underground parking at either Pacific Centre shopping mall or the Central Library will have you in the heart of the city.

Public Transportation

The website for TransLink (604-953-3333; www.translink.bc.ca) bus, SkyTrain and SeaBus services has a useful trip-planning tool, or you can buy the handy Getting Around route map ($1.95) from convenience stores.

A ticket bought on any of the three services is valid for 90 minutes of travel on the entire network, depending on the zone you intend to travel in. The three zones become progressively more expensive the further you journey. One-zone tickets are adult/child $2.50/1.75, two-zone tickets $3.75/2.50 and three-zone tickets $5/3.50. An all-day, all-zone pass costs $9/7. If you’re traveling after 6:30pm or on weekends or holidays, all trips are classed as one-zone fares and cost $2.50/1.75.

BUS

The bus network is extensive in the downtown area – especially along Granville St, Broadway, Hastings St, Main St and Burrard St. Many buses have bike racks and are wheelchair accessible. Exact change (or more) is required since all buses use fare machines and change is not given.

B-Line express buses operate between Richmond and downtown Vancouver (98 B-Line) and between UBC and the Broadway and Commercial SkyTrain stations (99 B-Line). These buses have their own limited arrival and departure points and do not use regular bus stops.

There is also a 12-route night bus system that runs every 30 minutes between 1:30am and 4am across the Lower Mainland. The last bus leaves downtown Vancouver at 3:10am. Look for the night-bus signs at designated stops.

SKYTRAIN

At the time of research for this book, the SkyTrain network consisted of two routes with a third Canada Line route from downtown to the airport due to open in 2009.

The original 35-minute Expo Line takes passengers to and from downtown Vancouver and Surrey, via stops throughout Burnaby and New Westminster. The newer Millennium Line alights near shopping malls and suburban residential districts in Coquitlam and Burnaby.

Trains depart every two to eight minutes between 5am and 1:30am Monday to Friday (6am to 12:30am Saturday, 7am to 11:30pm Sun). All SkyTrain services are wheelchair accessible.

SEABUS

The aquatic shuttle SeaBus (604-682-7887; www.translink.bc.ca) operates every 15 to 30 minutes throughout the day, taking 12 minutes to cross the Burrard Inlet between Waterfront Station and Lonsdale Quay. At Lonsdale there’s a bus terminal servicing routes throughout North Vancouver and West Vancouver. Services depart from Waterfront Station between 6:15am and 12:45am Monday to Saturday (8:15am to 11:15pm Sunday). Vessels are wheelchair accessible and bike-friendly.

TAXI

Flagging a downtown cab shouldn’t take too long, but it’s easiest to get your hotel to call you one. Operators include Vancouver Taxi (604-871-1111) and Black Top & Checker Cabs (604-731-1111). For green travelers, Yellow Cab (604-681-1111) has a large fleet of low-emission vehicles. Vancouver taxi meters start at $2.70 and add $1.58 per kilometer.


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LOWER MAINLAND

While downtown Vancouver and its accessible environs always get the lion’s share of attention from visitors, smart travelers with time on their hands usually explore a little further than the boundaries of their free Tourism Vancouver map. A drive or transit trek over the soaring Lions Gate Bridge will deliver you to the forest-fringed doorstep of North Vancouver and West Vancouver, complete with their outdoors attractions and waterfront views, while a short-hop ferry from Horseshoe Bay takes you over to Bowen Island for a rustic day excursion. Closer to town, Richmond is a bustling Asian-flavored metropolis; Burnaby houses the region’s biggest shopping attraction; and Fort Langley is a historic village that recalls the region’s colorful pioneer days.

NORTH VANCOUVER

pop 45,000

A commuter ’burb for downtown professionals, the multitreed city of вЂ˜North Van’ nevertheless has some of the Lower Mainland’s top visitor attractions. For information on what to do here, check out the municipal website (www.cnv.org) or pick up the free North Shore News paper.

Sights & Activities

The Lower Mainland’s most popular attraction is Capilano Suspension Bridge & Park (Map; 604-985-7474; www.capbridge.com; 3735 Capilano Rd; adult/youth/child $26.95/15.65/8.30; 9am-5pm Nov-Mar, 9am-6:30pm Apr, 9am-7:30pm May, 8:30am-8pm Jun & Sep, 8:30am-9pm Jul & Aug, 9am-6pm Oct). This 140m-long cabled walkway sways over the roiling waters of tree-lined Capilano Canyon: an awesome sight even for the most jaded traveler – especially when your legs turn to jelly halfway across. The grounds also include rainforest walks, totem poles and a swinging network of smaller cable bridges strung between the trees.

Calling itself the вЂ˜Peak of Vancouver,’ Grouse Mountain (off Map; 604-980-9311; www.grouse mountain.com; 6400 Nancy Greene Way; adult/youth/child summer $33/19/12, winter $45/35/20; 9am-10pm) offers some jaw-dropping views of downtown Vancouver. In summer, Skyride gondola passengers can access mountain restaurants, lumberjack shows, alpine hiking trails and a grizzly-bear refuge. You can also harden your calf muscles on the Grouse Grind, a steep 2.9km wilderness trek, which takes most people around 90 minutes. In winter, Grouse becomes the locals’ favorite snowy playground with its 25 ski and snowboard runs, outdoor ice-skating rink and large helping of Christmastime shenanigans.

Lynn Canyon Park (Map; 604-984-3149; Park Rd; admission free; 7am-9pm May-Aug, 7am-7pm Sep-Apr), the free alternative to Capilano, is a verdant North Van spot with its own slightly smaller suspension bridge. There are also plenty of excellent hiking trails and some great picnic spots. Check out the park’s Ecology Centre (604-981-3103; www.dnv.org/ecology; 3663 Park Rd; admission by donation; 10am-5pm Jun-Sep, 10am-5pm Mon-Fri & noon-4pm Sat & Sun Oct-May) for displays on the area’s rich biodiversity.

A popular nature escape from the city, Mt Seymour Provincial Park (Map; 604-986-2261; www.bcparks.ca; 1700 Mt Seymour Rd) is a tree-lined park space suffused with summertime hiking trails that suit walkers of all abilities. Like Grouse, the area transforms in winter, when Mt Seymour Resorts (604-718-7771; www.mountseymour.com; adult/youth/child $39/32/19; 9:30am-10pm Mon-Fri, 8:30am-10pm Sat & Sun Jan-Mar) runs three lifts to take you skiing or snowboarding on its 21 runs. There’s also a toboggan area ($7) and snow-tubing course ($15, two hours).

Sleeping & Eating

Grouse Inn (Map; 604-988-1701, 800-779-7888; www.grouseinn.com; 1633 Capilano Rd; s/d/ste from $99/109/145; ) While it looks like a small shopping mall from the outside, this family-friendly motel is favored by winter skiers and summer wilderness explorers and is stuffed with amenities. It has a playground, outdoor pool and free continental breakfast. Rooms have bright and breezy interiors – especially if you like busy, 1980s-style bedspreads – and come in a wide array of configurations, including Jacuzzi suites and larger rooms for groups.

Lonsdale Quay Hotel (Map; 604-986-6111; www.lonsdalequayhotel.com; 123 Carrie Cates Ct; d/ste $149/189; wi-fi) Steps from the SeaBus terminal and offering easy access to the mountains, the best rooms at this midsized hotel overlook the Burrard Inlet and Vancouver skyline. Interiors will be familiar to the business-traveler crowd but there are also two colorful family rooms with bunk beds and bath toys. There are plenty of shops and restaurants nearby to keep you occupied.

Tomahawk Restaurant (Map; 604-988-2612; 1550 Philip Ave; mains $6-14; 8am-9pm Sun-Thu, 8am-10pm Fri & Sat) This family-owned, blast-from-the-past local legend has been heaping its plates with hearty comfort food since 1926. The North Shore’s best weekend breakfast spot – if this place doesn’t kill your throbbing hangover, nothing will – it’s also great for a chatty lunch or dinner, when chicken potpies and organic meatloaf hit the tables.

Observatory (off Map; 604-980-9311; Grouse Mountain; mains $35-40; 5-10pm) Clinging gamely to the top of Grouse Mountain, this fine dining spot serves up dishes of seared scallops and beef tenderloin along with the region’s best views of nighttime Vancouver, twinkling in the valley far below.

Altitudes Bistro (off Map; 604-984-0661; mains $7-17; 11:30am-10pm) Adjoining the Observatory, here the views are almost as good and the atmosphere is decidedly more laid-back. Quality pub food in a ski-lodge setting.

Getting There & Around

SeaBus vessels arrive at Lonsdale Quay from Vancouver’s Waterfront Station ($3.50, 12 minutes) every 15 to 30 minutes throughout the day. From the bus terminal at the quay, bus 236 runs to Capilano Suspension Bridge then up to the base of Grouse Mountain.

Rocky Mountaineer Vacations runs its popular Whistler Mountaineer (604-606-8460, 888-687-7245; www.whistlermountaineer.com) train into North Vancouver from Whistler (from $105, three hours, once a day May to mid-October).

For a locals’ take on the area, consider the friendly folk at North Van Green Tours (604-290-0145; www.northvangreentours.com; adult/child $35/20). They run a four-hour guided trek of the North Shore’s natural treasures in an ecologically friendly biofuel van.


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WEST VANCOUVER

pop 42,000

Adjoining North Vancouver, the considerably more wealthy вЂ˜West Van’ is colored by the multilevel mansions that cling to the cliff tops here and look down – in more ways than one – across the region. It’s a stop-off point on the drive from downtown to the Horseshoe Bay ferry terminal and points north to Whistler. You can check out all the local information and parochial intrigue at the city council (www.westvancouver.ca) website.

Sights & Activities

Some of the region’s oldest and most spectacular trees live within the 75-hectare Lighthouse Park (Map; 604-925-7200; cnr Beacon Lane & Marine Dr), including a rare stand of original coastal forest and plenty of copper-trunked arbutus trees. About 13km of hiking trails crisscross the area, including a recommended trek that leads to Point Atkinson Lighthouse and some shimmering views across lovely Burrard Inlet. If you’re driving from downtown, turn left on Marine Dr after crossing the Lions Gate Bridge.

Around 8km north of West Van via Hwy 99, Cypress Provincial Park (off Map; 604-924-2200; www.bcparks.ca; Cypress Bowl Rd) offers great summertime hiking trails, including the fairly challenging Black Mountain Loop. In winter, the park’s Cypress Mountain (604-926-5612; www.cypressmountain.com; lift ticket adult/youth/child $47/40/21; 9am-4pm Dec, 9am-10pm Jan-Mar) attracts well-insulated sporty types with its 38 ski runs and popular snowshoe trails. As the snowboarding and freestyle skiing venue for the 2010 Winter Olympics, new facilities and upgrades are being added – including a new high-speed chair lift and eight new runs.

Head to the marina near Horseshoe Bay to book a seat on a rigid-hulled inflatable for your two-hour, high-speed ride out to sea with Sewell’s Sea Safari (off Map; 604-921-3474; www.sewellsmarina.com; 6409 Bay St; adult/youth/child $67/59/37; Apr-Oct). With the spray in your face and the wind rattling your sunglasses, keep your eyes open for possible whale-pod sightings – barking seal and soaring eagles are almost guaranteed.

Sleeping & Eating

Horseshoe Bay Motel (off Map; 604-921-7454; hbaymotel@telus.net; 6588 Royal Ave; s/d $99/119) Unless you can persuade one of the wealthy locals to offer you a spare room, this plain-Jane, nothing-to-write-home-about motel is one of the few options available for a West Van sleepover. Its 23 rooms are standard motel fare but if you have an early morning ferry to catch from nearby Horseshoe Bay, you’ll be happy with even the minimum home comforts.

Lighthouse Park B&B (Map; 604-926-5959, 800-926-0262; www.lighthousepark.com; 4875 Water Lane; ste $165) This elegant two-suite sleepover, complete with private entrances and a flower-decked courtyard, will have you feeling like a West Van aristo in no time. Each suite has a fridge and DVD player, as well as a decanter of sherry for that essential al fresco evening tipple. You can sober up with a stroll to nearby Point Atkinson Lighthouse.

Caspian (Map; 604-921-1311; 1495 Marine Dr; mains $10-18; 11:30am-10pm) One of the region’s rare Iranian restaurants, Caspian is a hidden gem that attracts a knowing local crowd. Proving just how authentic the food is, there are usually a few expat Iranians here, tucking into large platters of Barbary bread (with eggplant dip) and long-simmered stews. The recommended fish, chicken and beef kabobs dominate the menu.

Salmon House (Map; 604-926-3212; 2229 Folkestone Way; mains $24-30; 11:30am-2pm, 5-10pm) While its buttery-soft salmon dishes are always worthwhile, the landmark Salmon House also offers an ever-changing array of seasonal BC seafood treats, including delectable Fanny Bay oysters and Hecate Strait halibut. The cedar-lined, high-ceilinged dining area is packed with First Nations art and there’s an adjoining lounge area specializing in small plates for those who like to sample.


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HORSESHOE BAY & BOWEN ISLAND

Horseshoe Bay marks the end of the North Shore and the start of trips to Whistler, via the Sea to Sky Hwy (Hwy 99), or Vancouver Island and the Sunshine Coast via the ferry. You can also catch a 20-minute ferry ride to Bowen Island from here. For Horseshoe Bay information, check www.horseshoebaybc.ca. Bowen Island has its own Visitor Centre (604-947-9024; www.bowenisland.org; 432 Cardena Rd; 9:30am-4pm mid-May–mid-Oct, 10am-3pm Tue-Sat mid-Oct–mid-May).

West of Horseshoe Bay, Whytecliff Park (off Map; 604-925-7200; 7100 block Marine Dr) attracts scuba divers to its protected waters, hikers to its rocky trails and rock climbers to its granite cliffs. It’s also a fun place for families, who come for its picnic areas and marine views.

Hiking trails and picnic grounds similarly abound on Bowen. Scenic kayaking tours are offered by Bowen Island Sea Kayaking (604-947-9266, 800-605-2925; www.bowenislandkayaking.com; rentals 3hr/5hr/day $45/55/65, tours from $65), and its two-day Round Bowen tour ($375) is recommended, if you have the time.



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WHAT THE…?

Carrying 22 million passengers a year, the BC Ferries system has a few unusual stories to tell. There have been 21 on-board births, several weddings and a missing dog that disappeared from a boat in 2002, only to arrive bedraggled on Bowen Island two days later, following an exhausting doggy paddle.





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A stroll from the Bowen ferry dock, Lodge at the Old Dorm (604-947-0947; www.lodgeattheolddorm.com; 460 Melmore Rd, Bowen Island; r $90-140) is a character B&B dripping with art deco and arts and crafts accents and is a warm and convivial sleepover. The six rooms are bright and comfortable – the Lady Alexandra room with its own private garden is our favorite – and the continental buffet breakfast, served on a central counter in the kitchen, is full of yummy home-baked treats.

You can also fuel-up at Bowen’s Doc Morgan’s Inn (604-947-0808; mains $8-22; 11:30am-11pm) where the chatty patios overlook the park and the harbor. Pub grub is the main focus here and the fish and chips are recommended.

BC Ferries (250-386-3431, 888-223-3779; www.bcferries.com) plies the waters between Horseshoe Bay and Bowen Island (adult/child/vehicle $7.10/3.55/22.40, 20 minutes, 16 daily). The Bowen Island Community Shuttle (604-947-0229; single ticket $2.25) trundles locals and visitors around the area.


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BURNABY

pop 203,000

East of Vancouver, no-nonsense Burnaby is a residential suburb with a strip-mall feel. In addition, a handful of attractions aim to keep you away from the shops. For information, contact Tourism Burnaby (604-419-0377; www.tourismburnaby.com).

Offering a peaceful environment minus the hectic energy of downtown, the pathways of Deer Lake Park (Map) crisscross the meadows and woodlands, circling the lake where fowl and other wildlife hang out. The adjoining Burnaby Village Museum (Map; 604-293-6515; www.burnabyvillagemuseum.ca; 6501 Deer Lake Ave; adult/youth/child $10/7.50/5; 11am-4:30pm May-Aug) colorfully recreates a BC pioneer town, complete with replica homes, businesses and a handsome 1912 carousel. To get there, take the Sperling Ave exit off Hwy 1 and follow the museum signs.

An ever-expanding homage to materialism, Metropolis at Metrotown (Map; 604-438-4715; www.metropolisatmetrotown.com; 10am-9pm Mon-Fri, 9:30am-9pm Sat, 11am-6pm Sun) is the biggest shopping center you’ll ever need to visit. Savvy shoppers arrive early in the morning to beat the crowds then rest their weary credit cards at the sprawling food court – Indian, Japanese and Chinese cuisines are recommended here. The mall is a 20-minute SkyTrain ride from downtown Vancouver.


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RICHMOND

pop 174,000

The region’s latter-day Chinatown – spot the difference between Vancouver’s old-school version and this hopping, Hong Kong–style alternative – the city of Richmond combines bustling Asian malls and clamorous restaurants in a concrete-clad suburban setting. Easy to access from downtown Vancouver, most of the action lines the area’s neon-signed No 3 Rd. For information, drop into the Visitor Centre (Map; 604-271-8280, 877-247-0777; www.tourismrichmond.com; North East Plaza; 10am-4pm Tue-Sat Nov-Feb, 9:30am-5pm Mar-Apr & Sep-Oct, 9am-5pm May, 9am-8pm Jun-Aug).

Sights & Activities

Richmond Night Market (Map; 604-244-8448; www.richmondnightmarket.com; 12631 Vulcan Way; 7pm-midnight Fri & Sat, 7-11pm Sun mid-May–mid-Oct) is much bigger than downtown’s Chinatown version. Richmond’s 350 vendors offer a glimpse of what clamorous Asian bazaars are all about. Don’t eat before arriving and you can taste-trip among the 65 food stalls, including steaming Malaysian, Korean, Japanese and Chinese treats. At the time of writing, the market was considering a new location: check its website for location updates before you set off.

Kuan Yin Temple (Map; 604-274-2822; www.buddhisttemple.ca; 9160 Steveston Hwy; admission free; 9:30am-5:30pm) was modeled on the architecture of Beijing’s Forbidden City. The temple’s highlight is its sumptuous Gracious Hall, complete with deep-red and gold exterior walls and gently flaring orange porcelain roof. Don’t miss the calm-inducing classical garden and save time for a lip-smacking vegetarian lunch in the ground-floor cafeteria.

Sleeping & Eating

Stone Hedge B&B (Map; 604-274-1070; www.thestonehedge.com; 5511 Cathay Rd; s/d from $125/140; wi-fi) This surprisingly peaceful B&B is named after the large stone wall and formidable cedar hedge surrounding the property. Rooms are tastefully lined with reproduction antiques and landscape paintings. The best feature is the chintzy guest lounge, which opens directly onto a large, secluded swimming pool.

Fairmont Vancouver Airport (Map; 604-207-5200, 800-441-1414; www.fairmont.com/vancouverairport; Vancouver International Airport; r from $210; ) You can’t stay any closer to the airport than this luxury, amenity-laden hotel, reached via a walkway from the US departure hall. A great option for boarding your long-haul flight in trance-like state of calm. The rooms are elegantly furnished with high-end flourishes including remote-controlled drapes and marble-lined bathrooms.



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WORTH THE TRIP: BUNTZEN LAKE

If you’ve had your fill of city crowds, this dramatic, sigh-inducing natural retreat will remind you just why you came to BC in the first place. The giant, naturally occurring Buntzen Lake (off Map; 604-469-9679) reservoir is surrounded on three sides by steep, tree-covered mountains and on its fourth side by a gently curving beach, complete with picnic tables, old-growth trees and those ambling, ever-present Canada geese. There’s an array of well-marked hiking and mountain-bike trails through the forest and if you haven’t packed your own canoe there’s a handy rental store (604-469-9928; Sunnyside Rd) near the park entrance.



If you’re driving to Buntzen from Vancouver, follow Hastings St (Hwy 7A) east through the city to Burnaby and Coquitlam, where it becomes Barnet Hwy. Take the Ioco exit and follow Ioco Rd to the left. Turn right on First Ave and continue to Sunnyside Rd. Turn right again and continue to the Buntzen Lake entrance. The journey should take around an hour. It can get crowded here in summer, so arrive early if you want your pick of the picnic tables.





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Kelong Singapore Cuisine (Map; 604-821-9883; 130-4800 No 3 Rd; mains $8-18; 11am-10pm) Spicy Malaysian and Singapore approaches rule the roost in this bright and breezy restaurant. Vegetarians are also well served on a menu that stretches to almost 50 dishes. If you’re starving, tuck into the popular Hainanese chicken rice or dip into a yummy bowl of laksa, featuring spicy-broth noodles with fishcake, prawns and chicken.


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STEVESTON

A heritage fishing village in Richmond’s southeast corner, waterfront Steveston is a popular destination for sunset-viewing locals. It’s also a hot spot for great fish and chips. Drive here from Vancouver via the Steveston Hwy exit off Hwy 99 for an early-evening stroll along the boardwalk.

Once you’ve perused the boats hawking the day’s fresh catch, the main attraction here is the Gulf of Georgia Cannery (Map; 604-664-9009; 12138 4th Ave; adult/child $7.15/3.45; 10am-5pm Thu-Mon May & Sep, 10am-5pm daily Jun-Aug), a family-friendly National Historic Site and former fish-processing plant. Most of the machinery is still in place and you can learn all about what a horrible job it was working the production line here.

If that hasn’t put you off your dinner, head to the unassuming but nevertheless legendary Dave’s Fish & Chips (Map; 604-271-7555; 3460 Moncton St; mains $6-8; 11am-8pm) for great-value, melt-in-your-mouth treats like golden battered salmon and oysters and chips.


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Fort Langley

pop 2600

Little Fort Langley’s tree-lined streets and 19th-century storefronts make it one of the Lower Mainland’s most picturesque historic villages. Its undoubted highlight is the Fort Langley National Historic Site (604-513-4777; www.pc.gc.ca/langley; 23433 Mavis Ave; adult/child $7.15/3.45; 9am-8pm Jul & Aug, 10am-5pm Sep-Jun), one of BC’s most important landmarks, a fortified trading post since 1827. James Douglas announced the creation of BC here in 1858, giving Fort Langley a legitimate claim to being the province’s birthplace. With costumed re-enactors, re-created artisan workshops and a gold-panning area that’s very popular with kids – they also enjoy charging around the wooden battlements – this is an ideal place for families who want to add a little education to their trips. Fort Langley is 45 minutes southeast of Vancouver via Hwy 1.


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SEA TO SKY HIGHWAY

Otherwise known as Hwy 99, this picturesque cliff-top roadway links the communities between West Vancouver and Lillooet and is the main route to Whistler from Vancouver and the Lower Mainland. Undergoing a multiyear upgrade that aims for completion before the 2010 Winter Olympics, the winding route has several worthwhile stops – especially if you’re an outdoor-activity fan, history buff or lover of BC’s variegated mountain landscape. вЂ˜The Mountain’ radio station (107.1FM in Squamish; 102.1FM in Whistler) provides handy traffic and road-condition reports for the route.


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SQUAMISH & AROUND

pop 15,700

Situated midway between Vancouver and Whistler, Squamish sits at the meeting point of ocean, river and alpine forest. Originally just a grungy logging town, it’s now a popular base for outdoor activities, especially in summer. Head to the slick new visitor center, named the Squamish Adventure Centre (604-815-4994, 866-333-2010; www.adventurecentre.ca; 38551 Loggers Lane; 8am-8pm Jun-Sep, 9am-6pm Oct-May), to see what’s on offer: it has lots of good info and maps on area walks and bike trails.

Sights

Just before Squamish – turn off at the mammoth yellow truck – BC Museum of Mining (604-896-2233, 800-896-4044; www.bcmuseumofmining.org; adult/child $15/11.75; 9am-4:30pm mid-May–mid-Oct, 9am-4:30pm Mon-Fri mid-Oct–mid-May) was once the British Empire’s largest copper mine. Infamous more recently as a giant pollution clean-up project, it’s been saved and preserved with an impressive restoration. The underground train tour (May to October only) into the mines is a highlight, especially for kids who like a fright.

West Coast Railway Heritage Park (604-898-9336; www.wcra.org; 39645 Government Rd; adult/child $10/8.50; 10am-5pm) is the final resting place of BC’s legendary Royal Hudson steam engine – the team had the old gal out on the rails for her first excursion in years in 2007. This volunteer-driven outdoor museum has around 90 railcars, including 10 working engines. Weekend train trips are offered around the park and a main street of pioneer buildings was recently added to what has become western Canada’s largest train-spotter’s love-in.

A few minutes past Squamish, riverside Brackendale village is a fancy-free spot with a major claim to fame. The winter feeding ground for thousands of salmon-scoffing bald eagles, it draws legions of binocular-clad visitors, who flock around Thor Froslev, the eccentric owner of Brackendale Art Gallery (604-898-3333; www.brackendaleartgallery.com; 41950 Government Rd), as he coordinates the January bird count. An art installation in itself, his rustic gallery is lined with eagle-inspired paintings and photos and has a cafГ© and live theater that could double as a palatial Hobbit hole.

You’ll see Shannon Falls Provincial Park (604-986-9371; www.bcparks.ca) peeking through the trees off Hwy 99 just before Squamish but it’s worth turning back for one of BC’s largest waterfalls, which tumbles 335m down the rocks. It’s a short walk through from the parking lot to the fall’s deafening base. Consider stopping here for lunch: there are picnic tables around the area and a café across the street.

Activities

Home of a sheer, 652m granite rock face that attracts climbers from across the region, Stawamus Chief Provincial Park (www.bcparks.ca) dominates the approach into Squamish. But you don’t have to be geared-up to experience the breathtaking views from its craggy main peak: there are hiking routes up the back for anyone who wants to have a go. Call Squamish Rock Guides (604-815-1750; www.squamishrockguides.com; guided climbs half-day/full-day from $175/230) for climbing assistance or lessons.



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WORTH THE TRIP: POWER HOUSE AT STAVE FALLS

Head towards Mission on the Lougheed Hwy and you will eventually come upon this clever industrial interpretive center (604-462-1222; 31338 Dewdney Trunk Rd, near Mission; adult/child $6/5; 10am-5pm mid-May–Oct) housed in a BC Hydro power station built in 1912. Now a national historic site, it fuses physics, history and dozens of kid-friendly interactive games – there’s also a vivid movie presentation illuminating what it was like to live and work here in the early 1900s. The visually stunning old Generator Hall is the most impressive feature, though: it’s giant turbines and generator units are primed, cleaned and seemingly ready to spring into action.





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The 100 or so cycle trails around this area draw plenty of mountain-bike fans. The Cheekeye Fan trail near Brackendale has some relatively easy terrain, while downhill thrill-seekers will prefer the Diamond Head–Power Smart area with trail names like вЂ˜Icy Hole of Death.’ Drop in to Corsa Cycles (604-892-3331; www.corsacycles.com; 1200 Hunter Pl; 9:30am-6:30pm; rental per day $45) for rentals and a trail guide.

Known for its high wind quotient, Squamish Spit is a popular kiteboarding (and windsurfing) destination. The season runs May to October and the Squamish Windsports Society (604-892-2235; www.squamishwindsurfing.org; day pass $15) is your first point of contact for weather, water conditions and access to the Spit, which has change rooms and day storage – plus staffers with first-aid skills if you take an unexpected spill.

Sleeping & Eating

Alice Lake Provincial Park (800-689-9025; www.discovercamping.ca; campsites $22) A large, popular campground with more than 100 sites, this family-friendly spot is 13km north of Squamish. There are two shower buildings with flush toilets, and campers often indulge in activities like swimming, hiking and biking (rentals available). Consider an interpretive ranger tour through the woods (July and August only) to find out a little more about the region.

Squamish Inn on the Water (604-892-9240, 800-449-8614; www.innonthewater.com; dm/r/ste from $27.50/70/80; wi-fi) A short walk from town via a tunnel under the highway, this comfortable, lodge-style hotel is close to the visitor center. Rooms range from standards with two beds – most with sinks – that are good for families, to larger suites with their own exterior entrances. Some dorm rooms are also available and there’s a sunny patio overlooking the burbling river out back – an ideal spot for barbecuing.

Howe Sound Inn & Brewing Company (604-892-2603, 800-919-2537; www.howesound.com; 37801 Cleveland Ave; r $109; wi-fi) Quality rustic is the approach at this comfortable sleepover: rooms are warm and inviting with plenty of woodsy touches. There’s an outdoor climbing wall where you can train for your attempt on the nearby Stawamus Chief and a sauna where you can recover afterwards. The downstairs brewpub is worth a visit even if you’re not staying – yam fries and a Whitecap Ale are recommended.



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A SIX-PACK OF GREAT BC BEERS

On your travels around the province, make sure you sample a tipple or two from some of the region’s renowned craft brewers. These are among the best producers (and their recommended beers):





Dead Frog Brewery (www.deadfrogbrewery.com) Try the copper-colored Nut Brown Ale.

Granville Island Brewing (www.gib.ca) Sample the smooth Kitsilano Maple Cream Ale.

Phillips Brewing (www.phillipsbeer.com) The refreshing Phoenix Gold Lager is recommended.

Russell Brewing (www.russellbeer.com) The golden Russell Pale Ale is a popular choice.

Storm Brewing (www.stormbrewing.org) Taste-test the Irish-style Black Plague Stout.

Vancouver Island Brewery (www.vanislandbrewery.com) Indulge in the malty Hermann’s Dark Lager.





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Naked Lunch (604-892-5552; 1307 Pemberton Ave; mains $6-11; 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 8am-4pm Sat) Centrally located next to Save-On-Foods, this chatty diner is a hotspot for local gossip. The menu leans towards gourmet comfort food – check the halibut burger or hearty soups – and all is freshly prepared by a clutch of smiling staff.

Getting There & Away

Greyhound Canada (800-661-8747; www.greyhound.ca) buses arrive in Squamish from Vancouver ($8.35, 1ВЅ hours, eight daily) and Whistler ($8.35, one hour, eight daily). The slightly more salubrious Perimeter Squamish Shuttle (604-815-5084, 877-317-7788; www.perimeterbus.com) also arrives here from Vancouver International Airport ($40, 1ВЅ hours, three to seven times a day) and downtown Vancouver hotels ($40, one hour, between one and three a day).


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GARIBALDI PROVINCIAL PARK

Visiting outdoor types often make a beeline for the 195,000-hectare Garibaldi Provincial Park (604-898-3678; www.bcparks.ca), justly renowned for hiking trails colored by diverse flora, abundant wildlife and panoramic wilderness vistas. Summer hikers seem magnetic- ally drawn here but the trails also double as cross-country ski routes in winter. There are five main trail areas – directions to each are marked by the blue-and-white signs you’ll see off Hwy 99.

Among the park’s most popular trails, the Cheakamus Lake hike (3km) is relatively easy with minimal elevation. Also in this area and just outside the provincial park, the BC Forest Service’s 3000-hectare Whistler Interpretive Forest offers a variety of summer activities, including kayaking, fishing and mountain biking. The trailhead is 8.5km from Hwy 99, opposite Function Junction at the south end of Whistler.

The Elfin Lakes trail (11km) is a lovely and relatively easy day trek. For overnighters, the trail continues on to the extinct volcano of Opal Cone. There’s a first-come, first-served overnight shelter once you reach Elfin, and backcountry camping ($5) is available at Red Heather, 5km from the parking lot. The trailhead parking lot is 16km east of Hwy 99.

The Garibaldi Lake trek (9km) is an outstanding introduction to вЂ˜Beautiful BC’ wilderness, fusing scenic alpine meadows and breathtaking mountain vistas. The bright aqua hue of the undisturbed lake contrasts with the dark, jagged peak of Black Tusk rising behind it. Backcountry campsites ($5) are further up the trail at Taylor Meadows, on the lake’s western shoreline.


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BRANDYWINE FALLS PROVINCIAL PARK

A few kilometers north of Squamish and adjacent to Hwy 99, this tree-lined 143-hectare park (604-986-9371; www.bcparks.ca) is centered on a spectacular 70m waterfall. A short stroll through the forest leads to a leg-jellying platform overlooking the top of the falls, where water drops suddenly out of the trees like a giant faucet. There are also great vistas over Daisy Lake and the mountains of Garibaldi Provincial Park. A 7km looped trail leads further through the dense forest and ancient lava beds to Cal-Cheak Suspension Bridge. If you fancy staying, there are 15 drive-in campsites (800-689-9025; www.discovercamping.ca; campsite $14) here with picnic tables and pit toilets.


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WHISTLER

pop 9775

Named after the furry marmots that populate the surrounding mountains and whistle like deflating balloons, this pretty alpine village is one of the world’s most popular ski resorts. Co-hosting the 2010 Winter Olympics (www.winter2010.com) with Vancouver, Whistler is expanding its facilities and amenities to stage biathlon, bobsleigh, luge, alpine skiing and ski jumping events, so don’t be surprised to hear construction workers hammering outside your hotel window.

But it’s not all about winter activities here. Once little more than an off-season afterthought, the area has seen summer visitor numbers leaping in recent years, with many people dropping by to try mountain biking, alpine hiking and a full roster of adventurous outdoor activities. And if you still have time (and a serious amount of money) during your stay, pick up an ultraglossy real estate magazine and choose which multi-million-dollar gabled lodge you’d like to buy for your next visit.

ORIENTATION & INFORMATION

Approaching via Hwy 99 from the south, you’ll hit Creekside, the first of Whistler’s four main neighborhoods – the others are Whistler Village, Village North and Upper Village. Whistler Village, with the main hotels and businesses, is the area’s commercial hub and can be a confusing maze for first-timers. Luckily, there are plenty of street signs and lots of people around to snag directions from. Pick up The Pique or Whistler Question newspapers for further local insights.



Armchair Books (604-932-5557; 4205 Village Sq; 9am-9pm) Central bookstore with strong travel section.

Custom House Currency Exchange (604-938-6658; 4154 Village Stroll; 9am-5pm May-Sep, 9am-6pm Oct-Apr) Handy central exchange.

Cyber Web (604-905-1280; 4340 Sundial Cres; per 10 mins $2.50; 9am-10:30pm May-Sep, 8am-10pm Oct-Apr; wi-fi) Large internet cafГ©.

Post Office (604-932-5012; 106-4360 Lorimer Rd; 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 8am-noon Sat)

Town Plaza Medical Clinic (604-905-7089; 4314 Main St; 8:30am-7:30pm Oct-Apr, 9am-5:30pm Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm Sun May-Sep) Walk-in medical center.

Whistler Activity Centre (604-938-2769, 877-991-9988; 4010 Whistler Way; 9am-5pm) Recommendations and bookings for local activities.

Whistler Visitor Centre (604-935-3357, 877-991-9988; www.tourismwhistler.com; 4230 Gateway Dr; 8am-8pm) Flyer-lined visitor center with friendly staff.





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WHAT THE…?

Whistler was originally called Alta Lake and Whistler Mountain was named London Mountain in the 1860s by some evidently homesick British naval officers.





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ACTIVITIES

Once a determinedly winter-activity capital, with skiing and snowboarding especially drawing powder fans from around the world, Whistler is increasingly becoming a summer destination for thrill-seekers. They come particularly for the hiking and mountain biking – and often end up trying rafting and a spot of ziplining. Whatever season you arrive, head to the visitor center or Whistler Activity Centre for tips and recommendations.

Skiing & Snowboarding

Twin-mountain Whistler-Blackcomb (604-904-7060, 888-403-4727; www.whistlerblackcomb.com; 2-day lift ticket adult/youth/child $81/69/42) is one of North America’s largest ski areas with 200 runs to suit powder fans of all skill levels.

Recent years have seen record snowfalls and the region generally enjoys Canada’s longest resort season – November through June on Blackcomb and November through April on Whistler. There are dozens of lifts to transport skiers and snowboarders and a hotly anticipated 4.4km peak-to-peak gondola – linking both mountains for the first time – opens in 2008.

Ski and board fans can beat the crowded slopes with an early-morning Fresh Tracks ticket (adult/child $17/12). Book in advance at the Whistler Village Gondola and be there for a 7am start next day – rates include breakfast at the up-top Roundhouse Lodge. Night owls might prefer the Night Moves (adult/youth/child $16/13/11; 5-9pm Thu-Sat) program operated via Blackcomb’s Magic Chair lift.

If you didn’t bring you own gear, Mountain Adventure Centres (604-904-7060, 888-403-4727; www.whistlerblackcomb.com/rentals; 1-day ski or snowboard rental adult/child from $38/20) has several equipment rental outlets around town. They offer online reservations – you can choose your favorite gear before you arrive – as well as lessons for ski and snowboard virgins.





Cross-country Skiing & Snowshoeing

A short stroll or free shuttle bus away from the village, Lost Lake (604-905-0071; www.crosscountryconnection.bc.ca; day pass adult/youth/child $15/9/7.50; 8am-9pm Nov-Mar) is the hub for 32km of wooded cross-country ski trails, suitable for novices and experts alike. Lit at night, its вЂ˜warming hut’ provides rentals, lessons and maps. Snowshoers are also well served at Lost Lake: you can stomp off on your own on 10km of trails or rent equipment and guides.

Outdoor Adventures Whistler (604-932-0647; www.adventureswhistler.com; 4205 Village Sq; tours adult/child from $69/39) offers four snowshoeing tours, including a three-hour fondue excursion (adult/child $109/49), complete with a rewarding feast for all your work. Prices include equipment rentals and the company also offers a wide range of non-snowshoe tours and activities.



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WIRED FOR FUN

Stepping out into thin air 70m above the forest floor might seem like a normal activity for a cartoon character but ziplining turns out to be one of the best ways to encounter the Whistler wilderness. Attached via a body harness to the cable you’re about to slide down, you soon overcome your fear of flying solo. By the end of your time in the trees, you’ll be turning midair summersaults and whooping like a banshee. The cool, 10-line course operated by Ziptrek Ecotours (604-935-0001, 866-935-0001; www.ziptrek.com; adult/child $98/78) is strung between Whistler and Blackcomb mountains and operates in both winter and summer seasons. Its newer Treetrek (adult/child $39/29) course is a gentle web of walkways and suspension bridges for those who prefer to keep their feet on something a little more solid.





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Mountain Biking

Served by three lifts, the giant Whistler Mountain Bike Park (604-904-8134, 866-218-9690; www.whis tlerbike.com; lift access 1-day adult/youth/child $40/35/21; mid-May–mid-Oct) offers more than 1200m of vertical drops, plus plenty of ramps, high-octane jumps and 45 forested trails – pick up a free route map from the visitor center. There are more than 100km of additional bike trails throughout the region – visit the website of the Whistler off-Road Cycling Association (www.worca.com) for info on the local two-wheel scene.

Hiking

With more than 40km of flower-and-forest alpine trails, most accessed via the Whistler Village Gondola, this region is ideal for those who like nature of the strollable variety. Favorite routes include the High Note Trail (8km), which traverses pristine meadows and has stunning views of the blue-green waters of Cheakumus Lake. Pick up a route map from the visitor center for other trails.

Whistler Alpine Guides Bureau (604-938-9242; www.whistlerguides.com; 113-4350 Lorimer Rd; guided hikes adult/child from $89/69) organizes guided treks of the region – ask about their popular Musical Bumps hike – as well as rock climbing and rap jumping activities.

Rafting

Tumbling waterfalls, dense forest and a menagerie of local wildlife are some of the visuals you might catch as you lurch along the Elaho or Squamish rivers on an adrenalin-rushing half- or full-day rafting trip. Whistler River Adventures (604-932-3532, 888-932-3532; www.whistlerriver.com; Whistler Village Gondola; mid-May–Aug) offers five paddle-like-crazy excursions, including the popular Green River trip (adult/child $69/59), a white-water rollercoaster that’ll soon have you whimpering like a baby.


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FESTIVALS & EVENTS



Winter Pride (www.gaywhistler.com) A week of gay-friendly snow action and late-night partying in early February.

TELUS World Ski & Snowboard Festival In mid-April, a 10-day showcase of pro ski and snowboard competitions.

Kokanee Crankworx (www.crankworx.com) An adrenalin-filled celebration of bike stunts, speed and shenanigans in mid-July.

Cornucopia (www.whistlercornucopia.com) Bacchanalian mid-November food and wine fest.

Whistler Film Festival (www.whistlerfilmfestival.com) Four days of Canadian and independent movie screenings plus industry schmoozing in late November.




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SLEEPING

Hotel rates can double here in winter, when booking ahead is highly recommended. Specials are available the rest of the year, especially in fall’s shoulder season. Annoyingly, most hotels charge parking fees ($10 to $20 daily) and some also charge resort fees ($12 to $25 daily) – confirm these before you book. The visitor center has a handy accommodation reservation service (604-932-0606, 800-944-7853; www.whistler.com).

Budget

HI-Whistler Hostel (604-932-5492; whistler@hihostels.ca; 5678 Alta Lake Rd; dm/r $30/68) Teetering on the edge of Alta Lake, a 15-minute drive from the village (you can walk it in 45 minutes), this secluded hostel is ideal for those who don’t have to make it back from a wild night out on the town. Bike storage and rentals are available and there’s a sauna to soothe your hiked-out muscles. Dorms are predictably institutional, but private rooms are also available. Book ahead year-round.

Riverside RV Resort & Campground (604-905-5533; www.whistlercamping.com; 8018 Mons Rd; tent/cabin $35/165) A few minutes north of town via Hwy 99, this family-friendly recreational vehicle (RV) resort is popular with campers and there’s a free shuttle bus in summer. Aside from the tent-pitches, there’s a clutch of rustic, gable-topped wooden cabins, with porches, showers and full kitchens. The on-site restaurant serves great breakfasts (have the salmon eggs Benedict).

Also recommended:



UBC Whistler Lodge (604-822-5851; www.ubcwhistlerlodge.com; 2124 Nordic Dr; dm summer/winter $24/38) The bunks are built into the walls and the vibe is good. It’s 3km south of Whistler village.

Fireside Lodge (604-932-4545; www.firesidelodge.org; 2117 Nordic Dr; dm/r $30/80) Small dorms and private rooms in a homey lodgelike setting south of the village.



Midrange

Blackcomb Lodge (604-935-1177, 888-621-1117; www.blackcomblodge.com; 4220 Gateway Dr; r/ste from $109/139; ) Recently renovated, this boutique-style sleepover combines west coast lounge style with classy gentleman’s club flourishes: there’s plenty of chic rock in the lobby but the rooms are all about deep leather sofas, darkwood furnishings and black appliances. It offers lofts and studios with full kitchens, and a selection of cheaper but very comfortable standard rooms. You’re right in the heart of the Village Sq action here – you can almost shout your order to the liquor store across the way.

Alpine Lodge (604-932-5966; www.alpinelodge.com; 8135 Alpine Way; dm/r/ste $50/125/175; wi-fi) A colorful, wood-lined lodge just north of town, the centerpiece here is the cozy вЂ˜Great Room’ where your free coffee-and-croissants breakfast is served. While the rooms – including small dorms – are functional rather than palatial (most have private bathrooms and all have mountain views), there’s a handy shuttle bus to and from the lifts.

Crystal Lodge (604-932-2221, 800-667-3363; www.crystal-lodge.com; 4319 Main St; d/ste from $130/175; ) Not all rooms are created equal at the Crystal, a central sleepover forged from the fusion of two quite different hotel towers. Cheaper rooms in the South Tower are standard motel-style – baths and fridges are the highlight – but those in the Lodge Wing match the splendid rock-and-beam lobby, complete with small balconies. Both share excellent proximity to village restaurants and are less than 100m from the main ski lift.

Chalet Luise B&B Inn (604-932-4187, 800-665-1998; www.chaletluise.com; 7461 Ambassador Cres; r from $135) A five-minute trail walk from the village, this recently renovated Bavarian-look pension has eight bright and sunny rooms – think pine furnishings and white duvets – and a flower garden that’s ideal for a spot of evening wine-quaffing. Or you can just hop in the hot tub and dream about the large buffet breakfast coming your way in the morning.

Edgewater Lodge (604-932-0688, 888-870-9065; www.edgewater-lodge.com; 8020 Alpine Way; r from $150; wi-fi) A few minutes past Whistler on Hwy 99, turn right down a shady, tree-lined drive then wind towards the shoreline of Green Lake. It’s worth the drive because 12-room Edgewater Lodge is a haven for those who like to be close to nature without sacrificing comfort and great dining. Each room overlooks the glassy water through a large picture window – it’s common to sit in your padded window alcove watching ospreys and the occasional wandering bear – and you’ll find yourself sighing contentedly every few minutes. Peel yourself away for breakfast (included) in the magnificent glass-and-beam dining room or plan to be here for dinner: the outdoor seating on the lake’s edge is the perfect place for some juicy Queen Charlotte salmon.

Also recommended:



Whistler Village Inn & Suites (604-932-4004, 800-663-6418; www.whistlervillageinnandsuites.com; 4429 Sundial Pl; d/ste $119/139) Newly renovated twin-lodge sleepover with rustic chic rooms and a free breakfast buffet.

Pinnacle Hotel (604-938-3218, 888-999-8986; www.whistlerpinnacle.com; 4319 Main St; d $139-199; wi-fi) Friendly, well-established, adult-oriented lodge with Jacuzzi tubs in most rooms.



Top end

Adara Hotel (604-905-4665, 866-502-3272; www.adarahotel.com; 4122 Village Green; r from $160; wi-fi) Unlike all those Whistler lodges now claiming to be boutique hotels, the sophisticated Adara is the real deal, but with a quirky twist – hence the dramatic mod rooms and art-lined interiors. Fireplaces look like TVs, bathrooms are of the raindrop shower variety and faux fur throws make you feel like you’re in a 1970s Christmas card. The front desk loans iPods.



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WHISTLING FOR THE OLYMPICS

While Whistler was originally developed in the 1960s with the Olympics in mind, it has taken 40 years for the five-ringed circus to finally roll into town. The region hits the international spotlight when it joins Vancouver to host the 2010 Olympic and Paralympic Winter Games in February and March 2010.



The вЂ˜host mountain’ will have its own Athletes Village, Medals Plaza and Closing Ceremony plus – along with backcountry partner the Callaghan Valley – it’s the scheduled home of the following events:





Alpine skiing – Downhill, Super-G, Giant Slalom, Slalom, Combined

Nordic – Biathlon, Cross-country Skiing, Nordic Combined, Ski Jumping

Sliding – Luge, Skeleton, Bobsleigh

Paralympic – Alpine Skiing, Cross-Country Skiing, Biathlon



Visitors arriving before the Games can hit the alpine ski race runs for themselves or just drop by the Whistler 2010 Information Centre (877-408-2010; 4365 Blackcomb Way; 11am-5pm) for the latest Olympic news, including plans for legacy projects that will kick in once the famous flame is extinguished. Go to www.winter2010.com for the latest news and info.





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Le Chamois Whistler Resort Hotel (604-932-8700, 888-560-9453; www.lechamoiswhistlerhotel.com; 4557 Blackcomb Way; ste from $160; ) A breath of fresh air from the lodge approach, there’s an elegant, French heraldic theme at this well-maintained older property at the base of Blackcomb. Most of the rooms – lined with reproduction antiques – are much larger than standard and many have kitchens and separate bedrooms. Choose a room overlooking the slopes and you can watch from your balcony as the skiers slide home.

Fairmont Chateau Whistler (604-938-8000, 800-441-1414; www.fairmont.com/whistler; 4599 Chateau Blvd; r from $400; ) Standing sentinel near the base of Blackcomb, this modern-day baronial castle fits its natural surroundings perfectly. The hallways, lobbies and 550 rooms are adorned in rich hues and tastefully furnished with classic west coast elegance. Ask for a room with a mountain view and spend your time at the spa or the chichi aprГЁs ski lounge. Close enough to the lifts for you to enjoy ski-in/ski-out privileges.

Also recommended:



Sundial Boutique Hotel (604-932-2321, 800-661-2321; www.sundialhotel.com; 4340 Sundial Cres; r from $160; wi-fi) Revamped as a boutique property. Suites have full kitchens, heated bathroom floors and rooftop hot-tub access.

Legends (604-697-8965, 800-332-3152; www.legendswhistler.com; 2036 London Lane; r from $179; wi-fi) High-end, family-friendly Creekside apartment hotel with large suites, full kitchens and a movie room: ideal for longer stays.




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EATING

Beet Root Café (604-932-1163; 129-4340 Lorimer Rd; light mains $4-8; 7:30am-6pm) The best home-style hangout in town. The menu leans towards bulging breakfast burritos and huge packed sandwiches but it’s worth loitering in a corner until the baked treats are released from the oven. Fight your way to the counter and buy as many cookies and muffins as you can eat: smiling while stuffing your face has never been easier.

Sachi Sushi (604-935-5649; 106-4359 Main St; mains $8-18; 11:30am-10pm Tue-Fri, 5-10pm Sat-Mon) Whistler’s best sushi spot doesn’t stop at California rolls. Serving everything from crispy popcorn shrimp to seafood salads and stomach-warming udon noodles (the tempura noodle bowl is best), this bright and breezy eatery is a relaxing après hangout. Try a glass of hot sake on a cold winter day.

Citta’s Bistro (604-932-4177; 4217 Village Stroll; mains $8-22 10am-1am Mon-Fri, 9am-1am Sat & Sun) Pronounced вЂ˜cheetahs,’ this lively patio eatery on the edge of Village Sq serves up creative twists on comfort food classics – try the wild-salmon club sandwich. The loungey, sometimes raucous, bar will keep you occupied here until past midnight when you can stagger back to wherever your hotel might be.

21 Steps Kitchen & Bar (604-966-2121; 4320 Sundial Cres; mains $14-22; 5:30pm-1am Mon-Sat, 5:30pm-midnight Sun) With small plates for nibblers, the main dishes at this cozy upstairs spot have a high-end comfort-food approach. Not a great place for vegetarians – unless you like stuffed Portobello mushroom – steak, chops and seafood feature heavily. Check out the great attic bar, a locals’ favorite.

Araxi Restaurant & Lounge (604-932-4540; 4222 Village Sq; mains $30-45; 5-11pm) Whistler’s best splurge restaurant, exquisite Araxi combines a sophisticated menu with courteous service that immediately puts you at your ease. The inventive main dishes are all about superb, mostly Pacific Northwest ingredients, which can range from Queen Charlotte Islands cod to Cowichan Valley chicken – there’s also a 15,000-bottle wine cellar to tempt your wallet. Save room for dessert: the cheese menu is small but perfectly formed and the Okanagan apple cheesecake will have you licking the glaze off your plate.

Other recommendations:



Elements Urban Tapas Lounge (604-932-5569; 4359 Main St; mains $12-18; 8am-11pm) An array of small plates and mains, ranging from smoked salmon tarts to beef tenderloin medallions.

AprГЁs (604-935-0200; 103-4338 Main St; mains $18-35; 6pm-midnight) A contemporary French-influenced west coast bistro dripping with quality.

Trattoria di Umberto (604-932-5858; 4417 Sundial Pl; mains $20-35; 11:30am-2pm, 5pm-midnight) Classic high-end Italian cuisine in a stylish trattoria setting.




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DRINKING & ENTERTAINMENT

Amsterdam Café Pub (604-932-8334; Village Sq; 11am-1am) A brick-lined party joint with a neighborhood-pub vibe, this bar is in the heart of the village action and offers lots of drinks specials – the Alexander Keith’s Pale Ale is recommended. You can treat your hangover to a late breakfast the next day by coming in for a good-value fry-up.

Garibaldi Lift Company (604-905-2220; Whistler Village Gondola; 11:30am-11pm) The closest bar to the slopes – you can watch the powder geeks on Whistler Mountain slide to a halt from the patio – the GLC is a smashing, rock-lined cave of a place defining the essence of après ski. From its wrought-iron chandeliers to its stone hearth and giant picture windows, you can tell anyone who will listen here all about your daring escapades on the slopes. They might even believe you.

Longhorn Saloon & Grill (604-932-5999; 4290 Mountain Sq; 7am-11pm Sun-Thu, 7am-midnight Fri & Sat) Its sprawling patio splayed out at the base of Whistler Mountain, the Longhorn feels like it’s been around ever since the first skier turned up. The service can be slow and the pub food is nothing special but it’s hard to beat the atmosphere here on a hopping winter evening.

Whistler Brewhouse (604-905-2739; 4355 Blackcomb Way; 11:30am-midnight Sun-Thu, 11:30am-1am Fri & Sat) This lodge-like resto-bar crafts its own beer on the premises – the Twin Peaks Pale Ale is a favorite – but it’s also an ideal pub for catching the game on TV. The food, including pasta, pizza and great fish and chips, is superior to standard bar fare.

Garfinkel’s (604-932-2323; 1-4308 Main St) Mixing mainstream dance grooves with Monday-night live bands, Whistler’s biggest club has been a regional legend for years. Thursday is the best night of the week, attracting locals with indie and funk tunes, but be prepared to line up for weekend entry when everyone within a 25km radius seems to be trying to get in.

Moe Joe’s (604-935-1152; 4155 Golfer’s Approach) Locals in the know will point you to this place if they want to hang out with you. More intimate than Garfinkel’s, it’s the best place in town if you like dancing yourself into a drooling heap. Always crowded on Friday nights (Monday’s drum-and-base night is also popular), this is where you’re most likely to find the under-25 ski-bunny crowd.

Village 8 Cinema (604-932-5833; Village Stroll; adult/child $12.50/8.50) Shows first-run flicks.

MY Place (604-935-8410; www.myplacewhistler.org; 4335 Blackcomb Way) You can indulge in theater of the live variety here, where various plays and performances are staged.


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GETTING THERE & AROUND

While most visitors arrive by car from Vancouver via Hwy 99, you can also fly in on a Whistler Air (603-932-6615, 888-806-2299; www.whistlerair.ca) floatplane to Green Lake ($149, 30 minutes, two daily from May to September).

Greyhound Canada (800-661-8747; www.greyhound.ca) bus services arrive at Creekside and Whistler Village from Vancouver ($18.80, 2ВЅ hours, eight daily) and Squamish ($8.35, 50 minutes, nine daily).

Motor coach services from Perimeter Tours (604-266-5386, 877-317-7788; www.perimeterbus.com) also arrive from Vancouver ($67, 2ВЅ hours, seven to 11 daily) and Vancouver Airport ($67, three hours, nine daily) and drop-off at Whistler hotels. Snowbus (604-685-7669, 866-7669-287; www.snowbus.ca) operates a November to April service from Richmond ($29, three hours, two daily) and Vancouver ($21, 2ВЅ hours, two daily).

Train-spotters can trundle into town on Rocky Mountaineer Vacations’ Whistler Mountaineer (604-606-8460, 888-687-7245; www.whistlermountaineer.com), which winds along a picturesque coastal route from North Vancouver (from $105, three hours, once a day from May to mid-October).

Whistler’s WAVE (604-932-4020; www.busonline.ca; adult/child/one-day pass $1.50/1.25/4.50) public buses are equipped with ski and bike racks and are aiming to switch to a full hydrogen fuel cell fleet by 2010. In winter, buses are free between Marketplace and the Upper Village loop and in summer there’s a free service from the village to Lost Lake. Alternatively, you can grab a taxi from Resort Cabs (604-938-1515; www.resortcabs.com).


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SUNSHINE COAST

Stretching along the water from Langdale to Lund, the Sunshine Coast – separated from the Lower Mainland by the Coast Mountains and the Strait of Georgia – has an independent, islandlike mentality that belies the fact that it’s only a 40-minute ferry ride from Horseshoe Bay. With Hwy 101 linking key communities like Gibsons, Sechelt and Powell River, it’s an easy and convivial region to explore and there’s plenty of local rivalry to keep things colorful. Check the website of the Sunshine Coast Tourism Partnership (www.sunshinecoastcanada.com) for information and pick up a copy of the Sunshine Coast Recreation Map & Activity Guide ($3) for outdoors activities and operators around the region.

Getting There & Around

BC Ferries (250-386-3431, 888-223-3779; www.bcferries.com) services arrive at Langdale, 6km northeast of Gibsons, from West Vancouver’s Horseshoe Bay (passenger/vehicle $9.60/34, 40 minutes, eight daily). The Sunshine Coast Transit System (604-885-6899; www.busonline.ca; adult/child $2.25/1.75) runs bus services from the terminal into Gibsons, Roberts Creek and Sechelt.

Malaspina Coach Lines (604-886-7742; 877-227-8287; www.malaspinacoach.com) buses arrive twice daily (once a day off-season) from Vancouver, via the ferry, in Gibsons ($24, two hours), Roberts Creek ($27, 2ВЅ hours), Sechelt ($30, three hours) and Powell River ($51, five to six hours). This service is also handy for traveling up and down the highway between the Sunshine Coast communities.


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GIBSONS

pop 4350

This gateway town’s waterfront area (named Gibsons Landing) is a kaleidoscope of painted buildings perched over a marina – check out the flower-covered floating garden adjoining one of the houseboats. Walk up from the waterfront and you’ll hit the shops, the tiny Visitor Centre (604-886-2374, 866-222-3806; www.gibsonsbc.ca; 417 Marine Dr; 9am-5pm May-Sep, 9am-5pm Tue-Sat Oct-Apr) and Hwy 101.

Once you’ve finished wandering the town, kayak rentals and tours are available from the friendly folk at Sunshine Kayaking (604-886-9760; www.sunshinekayaking.com; Molly’s Lane; rentals 4hr/8hr $32/45; 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 8am-6pm Sat & Sun). The guided sunset ($60) and full-moon ($55) tours are recommended.

Your best bet for a bed is just out of town at Caprice B&B (604-886-4270, 866-886-4270; www.capricebb.com; 1111 Gower Point Rd; d $95-125; ). Nestled among the arbutus trees, it’s a large waterfront home (you can watch the cruise ships gliding by) with three suites – two have handy kitchenettes. Homemade bakery treats feature on the breakfast menu and there’s a small outdoor pool.

The locals’ favorite nosh pit, waterfront Molly’s Reach (604-886-9710; 647 School Rd; mains $7-12; 7am-9pm) is a great spot for a large greasy-spoon breakfast – try the stomach-expanding вЂ˜Constable Constable’ of two eggs, two sausages, two pancakes and two slices of bacon. Try for a window seat and you’ll be overlooking the water.


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ROBERTS CREEK

pop 3100

Roberts Creek Rd, off Hwy 101, leads to the center of this former hippy enclave that retains a distinctly laid-back vibe. Check www.robertscreek.com for local happenings. West of town, Roberts Creek Provincial Park (604-885-3714; www.bcparks.ca) is ideal for a beachfront picnic.

Exactly what a great hostel should be, Up the Creek Backpackers (604-885-0384, 877-885-8100; www.upthecreek.ca; 1261 Roberts Creek Rd; dm/r $23/69; ) has three small dorms, one private room and a predilection for recycling and organic breakfasts. The local bus stops just around the corner, so you’re encouraged to arrive here by transit – loaner bikes are offered to get you around once you’ve unpacked.

For something a little more upmarket, the Artist & the Quiltmaker B&B (604-741-0702, 866-570-0702; www.theartistandthequiltmaker.com; 3173 Mossy Rock Rd; d $99-150) is a three-room, Victorian-style property that’s well-worth a stop. Its large upstairs suite, complete with kitchenette, is popular with families but the lovely Renaissance Room is perfect for some romantic canoodling.

For sustenance, the ever-popular Gumboot Restaurant (604-885-4216; 1041 Roberts Creek Rd; mains $7-14; 8am-9pm) and its adjoining café are ideal for rubbing shoulders with the locals and scoffing a hearty dinner – check out those buffalo burgers and vegetarian-friendly Gumboot Garden sandwiches.


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SECHELT

pop 8900

A useful base for active travelers, with plenty of hiking, biking, kayaking and diving opportunities in the area, Sechelt is the second-largest town on the Sunshine Coast. It also has plenty of pit-stop amenities if you’re just passing through. For information, drop by the Visitor Centre (604-885-1036, 877-885-1036; www.secheltvisitorinfo.com; 5790 Teredo St; 9am-5pm May-Aug, 10am-4pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat Sep-Apr).

Pedals & Paddles (604-885-6440, 866-885-6440; www.pedalspaddles.com; Tillicum Bay Marina; 4hr/8hr $32/44) organizes kayak rentals and tours of the area’s tranquil waters, while On the Edge (604-885-4888; www.ontheedgebiking.com; 5644 Cowrie St; 4hr/8hr $20/34) rents bikes and also leads guided treks around the region.

For cold-water dive fans and those who’d like to learn, the friendly folk at Porpoise Bay Charters (604-885-5950, 800-665-3483; www.porpoisebaycharters.com; 5718 Anchor Rd; dive trips from $100) offer training and trips. Since this is one of BC’s best dive regions, you can check out giant wolf eels, steely-eyed blue sharks and hulking shipwrecks just off the coast.

Great waterfront views are part of the attraction at Sechelt Inlet B&B (604-740-0776, 877-740-0776; www.secheltinletbandb.com; 5870 Skookumchuck Rd; d $109-129), which has three intimate, colorfully decorated suites. The purple-hued Maple Suite is a favorite and there’s a hot tub overlooking the twinkling water.

If you feel like splurging, it’s worth continuing your drive along Hwy 101 past Sechelt to Rockwater Secret Cove Resort (604-885-7038, 877-296-4593; www.rockwatersecretcoveresort.com; 5356 Ole’s Cove Rd; r/ste/cabin/tent from $149/179/159/299) where the highlight accommodations are tent suites perched like nests on a steep cliff. About as far from camping as you can get, each luxurious canvas-walled cabin has a heated rock floor, Jacuzzi tub and a private deck overlooking the bay.



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IF YOU HAVE A FEW MORE DAYS

The next town north of Whistler on Hwy 99, Pemberton (www.pemberton.net) has a potato for a mascot, a population of 2500 and a welcoming vibe that encourages many to hang out here and sample some cowboy country charm.



Your first stop should be Pemberton Museum (604-894-5504; Prospect St; admission by donation; 10am-5pm Jun-Sep) where you can wander around a village of rescued pioneer shacks and imagine the Gold Rush sweeping through. Next, don your Stetson and saddle up with Adventures on Horseback (604-894-6269; www.adventuresonhorseback.ca; rides from $60) for a trot around the valley.



An even better way to see the area is from the air. Head to the Pemberton Soaring Centre (604-894-5776, 800-831-2611; www.permbertonsoaring.com; flights from $85; Apr-Oct) and climb into a two-person glider for a breathtaking swoop around the mountains. Tell the pilot you like rollercoasters and see what happens next.



If that doesn’t put you off your dinner, join the locals for Thursday night’s beer-and-pizza evening at the charming Pony Espresso (604-894-5700; 1392 Portage Rd; mains $8-14; 8am-10pm), a chatty neighborhood hangout. Finally, roll back to your cozy bed at the Whistler-style Pemberton Valley Lodge (604-894-2000, 877-894-2800; www.pembertonvalleylodge.com; 1490 Portage Rd; r/ste from $89/99; ).





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WORTH THE TRIP: SKOOKUMCHUCK NARROWS PROVINCIAL PARK

Located at the top of the Lower Sunshine Coast, Egmont is home to Skookumchuck Narrows Provincial Park (604-885-3714; www.bcparks.ca), where a 4km hike brings you to an inlet so narrow that when the water is forced through during high tide it causes 30km/h rapids. Hop aboard a steel-hulled water taxi operated by High Tide Tours (604-883-9220; www.hightidetours.com; Egmont Marina; trips $15) and take in the roiling, unpredictable waves first-hand. The boat crisscrosses the rapids like a dive-bomber – keep a lookout for the crazy kayakers who also come here for a little white-knuckle paddling. If you’re not feeling too queasy after your bouncy boat trip, the marina’s laid-back Backeddy Pub (604-883-3614; Egmont Marina; mains $6-12) is a good spot for a bulging вЂ˜Egmont burger’ and a restorative beer or two.





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The resort has a good west coast restaurant (mains $16 to $28), but if you’re dining in Sechelt the best eatery is the Old Boot (604-885-2727; 5330 Wharf St; mains $10-16; 11:30am-10pm Tue-Sun), a charming Italian nook with gourmet pizzas and well-prepared pasta dishes – the prawn linguini is recommended.


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POWELL RIVER

pop 13,830

A short ferry hop along Hwy 101 brings you to this vibrant former resource town, which has a strong claim to being the heart and soul of the Sunshine Coast. Funkier than Sechelt and busier than Gibsons, Powell River is well worth a sleepover and is a hotspot for outdoor activities – drop by the Visitor Centre (604-485-4701, 877-817-8669; www.discoverpowellriver.com; 111-4871 Joyce Ave; 9am-9pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun May-Sep, 9am-5pm Mon-Fri Oct-Apr) for information.

West of downtown, Willingdon Beach City Park is an ideal spot for a waterfront picnic. You can walk off your lunch with a guided walking tour (604-483-3901; tours $5; 7pm Wed, 10am Sat Jul & Aug) of the town’s historic quarter. Or you can hit the water with a kayak from Powell River Sea Kayak (604-483-2160, 866-617-4444; www.bcseakayak.com; 3hr rental $35).

For a quirky sleepover, the Old Courthouse Inn (604-483-4000, 877-483-4777; www.oldcourthouseinn.ca; 6243 Walnut St; s/d from $59/69) occupies the town’s former court chambers and police station. In keeping with the historic theme, the rooms are nicely decorated with antique furnishings. Nearby, the old Rodmay Heritage Hotel (604-483-7715; www.rodmayheritagehotel.com; 6251 Yew St; d/ste from $75/95) is undergoing a transformation and has added new furnishings and paintwork to its cavernous arts-and-crafts setting.

At the end of a long day of exploring, it’s hard to beat La Casita (604-485-7720; 4578 Marine Ave; mains $7-14; 11:30am-10pm Mon-Sat, 5-10pm Sun), an energetic Mexican eatery with some lip-smacking shrimp and scallop tacos and plenty of vegetarian-friendly options. If a beer and some pub grub is more your style, drop by the waterfront Shinglemill Pub & Bistro (604-483-3545; 6233 Powell Pl; mains $8-12; 11am-10pm) instead.


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VANCOUVER ISLAND

The largest populated landmass off the North American coast – it’s 450km long and 100km wide – Vancouver Island is laced with colorful, often quirky settlements, many founded on logging or fishing and featuring the word вЂ˜Port’ in their name.

Despite the general distaste among residents for the вЂ˜far too busy’ mainland – a distaste that often comes from people who have never actually left the island – the locals are usually a friendly and welcoming bunch, proud of their region and its distinct differences. If you want to make a good impression, don’t refer to the place as вЂ˜Victoria Island,’ an oft-repeated mistake that usually provokes involuntary eye-rolls and an almost imperceptible downgrading of your welcome.

While Victoria itself – the history-wrapped BC capital that’s stuffed with attractions – is the first port of call for many, it should never be the only place you visit here. Food and wine fans will enjoy weaving through the verdant Comox Valley farm region; outdoor activity enthusiasts shouldn’t miss the surf-loving Tofino area; and those who fancy remote forested beaches far from the madding crowds should make straight for the North Island region, an undiscovered gem that’s among the most rewarding wilderness areas in BC.

For an introduction to the island, contact Tourism Vancouver Island (250-754-3500, 888-655-3843; www.vancouverisland.travel) for listings and resources.


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VICTORIA

pop 78,000

With a district population approaching 350,000, the picture-postcard provincial capital was long-touted as North America’s most English city. This was a surprise to anyone who actually came from Britain, since Victoria promulgated a dreamy version of England that never really was: every garden (complete with the occasional palm tree) was immaculate; every flag pole was adorned with a Union Jack; and every afternoon was spent quaffing tea from bone-china cups.

Thankfully this tired theme-park version of Ye Olde England has been gradually superseded in recent years. Fuelled by an increasingly younger demographic, a quiet revolution has seen lame tourist pubs, eateries and stores transformed into the kind of bright-painted bohemian shops, wood-floored coffee bars and surprisingly innovative restaurants that would make any city proud. It’s worth seeking out these enclaves on foot but activity fans should also hop on their bikes: Victoria has more cycle routes than any other Canadian city.

Orientation & Information

Centered on the Inner Harbour landmarks of the Parliament Buildings and the Empress Hotel, downtown Victoria is compact and strollable. Stretching north from here, Government St is the main shopping promenade – especially for souvenirs – and the parallel Douglas St (otherwise known as Hwy 1 and the Trans-Canada Hwy) is one of the main driving routes into town. The other is the Patricia Bay Hwy (Hwy 17) which winds from the Swartz Bay ferry terminal.



Custom House Global Foreign Exchange (Map; 250-412-0336; 1150 Douglas St; 9:30am-6pm Mon-Sat, 11am-6pm Sun)

Downtown Medical Centre (Map; 250-380-2210; 622 Courtney St; 9am-6pm) Handy walk-in clinic.

Main Post Office (Map; 250-953-1352; 706 Yates St; 8am-5pm Mon-Fri) Near the corner of Yates and Douglas Sts.

Stain Internet CafГ© (Map; 250-382-3352; 609 Yates St; per hr $3.50; 10am-2am) Central and late-opening internet spot.

Visitor Centre (Map; 250-953-2033; www.tourismvictoria.com; 812 Wharf St; 9am-5pm) Busy, flyer-lined visitor center overlooking the Inner Harbour.



Sights

The province’s best museum is the Royal British Columbia Museum (Map; 250-356-7226, 888-447-7977; www.royalbcmuseum.bc.ca; 675 Belleville St; adult/child $18/12; 9am-6pm Jul–mid-Oct, 9am-5pm mid-Oct–Jun). You can stroll among prehistoric and latter-day dioramas here – check out the rainforest where deer and grizzlies eyeball you – then amble around a re-created indoor pioneer town. Don’t miss the 3rd-floor First Nations gallery and save time for the outdoor copse of totem poles and preserved historic homes. There’s also an on-site IMAX Theatre.

Parliament Buildings (Map; 250-387-1400; www.leg.bc.ca; 501 Belleville St; admission free; 8:30am-5pm May-Sep, 8:30am-5pm Mon-Fri Oct-Apr) is a handsome confection of turrets, stained glass and a grand entrance stairway. The BC legislature welcomes history-hugging visitors. Peek behind the facade on a colorful 30-minute tour (250-387-3046, 800-663-7867; admission free; 9am-4pm May-Sep, 9am-4pm Mon-Fri Oct-April) led by costumed Victorians who’ll tell you plenty of quirky stories. Consider stopping for lunch (Click here).

Chinatown (Map; Fisgard St) is one of Canada’s oldest Asian neighborhoods. This tiny strip of businesses is fronted by an incongruously large Chinatown gate. Neon signs add a dash of nighttime excitement to the restaurants and grocery stores, while Fan Tan Alley – a narrow passageway between Fisgard St and Pandora Ave – is a miniwarren of traditional and trendy stores hawking cheap and cheerful trinkets, cool used records and funky artworks. Consider a guided tour to learn all about days of opium dens and anti-Chinese sentiment.

Head east of downtown on Fort St and follow the gallery signs to find one of Canada’s best Emily Carr collections, at the Art Gallery of Greater Victoria (Map; 250-384-4101; www.aggv.bc.ca; 1040 Moss St; adult/child $12/2; 10am-5pm Fri-Wed, 10am-9pm Thu). There’s also an extensive array of Japanese art and regular temporary shows. Check the online calendar of events if you want to rub shoulders with the locals at lectures, presentations and even singles nights aimed at lonely arts fans.



The multiturreted Craigdarroch Castle (Map; 250-592-5323; www.thecastle.ca; 1050 Joan Cres; adult/child $11.75/3.75; 10am-5pm Sep–mid-Jun, 9am-7:30pm mid-Jun–Aug) is a handsome, 39-room landmark built by a 19th-century coal baron with money to burn. The elegant, wood-lined stone mansion is dripping with period architecture and antique-packed rooms. Climb the tower’s 87 steps (check out the stained-glass windows en route) for views of the snow-capped Olympic Mountains.

Fringed by the crashing ocean, Beacon Hill Park (Map) is a locals’ hangout and a great spot to weather a wild storm – check out the windswept trees along the cliff top. Enter the park via Douglas St. You’ll also find one of the world’s tallest totem poles, a Victorian cricket pitch and a marker for Mile 0 of the Hwy 1, alongside a statue of Terry Fox, the one-legged runner whose attempted cross-Canada trek gripped the nation in 1981.

Emily Carr House (Map; 250-383-5843; www.emilycarr.com; 207 Government St; admission by donation; 11am-4pm Jun-Aug, 11am-4pm Tue-Sat Sep-May) is the birthplace of BC’s best-known painter. The bright-yellow gingerbread house has plenty of period rooms and displays on the artist’s life and work. There’s an ever-changing array of local contemporary works on display but head to the Art Gallery of Greater Victoria if you want to see more of Carr’s paintings.

When you get to Victoria Bug Zoo (Map; 250-384-2847; www.bugzoo.bc.ca; 631 Courtney St; adult/child $8/5; 10am-6pm mid-Jun–Aug, 10am-5pm Mon-Sat, 11am-5pm Sun Sep-May) your critter-loving kids will thank you for bringing them to the city’s best child-friendly attraction, especially if they like ogling industrious leaf-cutter ants and glow-in-the-dark scorpions. That doesn’t mean you have to join them in the handling area, complete with a disturbingly large 400-leg millipede.

Bastion Square (Map), between Government and Wharf Sts, occupies the site of the old Fort Victoria. This clutch of scrubbed colonial strongholds is now home to the Maritime Museum of British Columbia (Map; 250-385-4222; www.mmbc.bc.ca; 28 Bastion Sq; adult/child $8/3; 9:30am-5pm mid-Jun–mid-Sep, 9:30am-4:30pm mid-Sep–mid-Jun), where 400 model ships illuminate the region’s salty heritage, as well as the summertime Festival of the Arts (250-885-1387; www.bastionsquare.ca; 10am-5pm Thu-Sat, 11am-4pm Sun Apr-Jun & Sep, 10am-5pm Wed & Thu, 11am-7pm Fri & Sat, 11am-4pm Sun Jul & Aug), a chatty street market of local artisans.



Activities

WHALE-WATCHING

Raincoat-clad tourists head out by the boatload from Victoria throughout the May-to-October viewing season. The whales don’t always show, so most excursions also visit the local haunts of elephant seal and sea lion.

Some operators:



Orca Spirit Adventures (Map; 250-383-8411, 888-672-6722; www.orcaspirit.com; 146 Kingston St; adult/child $89/59)

Prince of Whales (Map; 250-383-4884, 888-383-4884; www.princeofwhales.com; 812 Wharf St; adult/child $85/69)



KAYAKING

Ambling around the coast of Vancouver Island by kayak is the perfect way to see the region, especially if you come across a few soaring eagles, lolling seal and an occasional starfish-studded beach. You can rent equipment for your own trek or join a tour of the area’s watery highlights.

Some operators:



Ocean River Sports (Map; 250-381-4233, 800-909-4233; www.oceanriver.com; 1824 Store St; rental 2 hr/24hr $25/50; 9:30am-6pm Mon-Thu & Sat, 9:30am-8pm Fri, 11am-5pm Sun) Popular 2ВЅ-hour sunset tours ($59).

Sports Rent (Map; 250-385-7368; www.sportsrentbc.com; 1950 Government St; rental 5hr/24hr $29/45; 9am-5:30pm Mon-Thu & Sat, 9am-6pm Fri, 10am-5pm Sun)



SCUBA DIVING

The region’s dive-friendly underwater ecosystem includes popular spots like Ogden Point Breakwater, west of Beacon Hill Park, and 10 Mile Point near Cadboro Bay and the University of Victoria.

Some established equipment rental and guide operators:



Frank White’s Dive Stores (Map; 250-385-4713; 1620 Blanshard St; www.frankwhites.com; 9am-5:30pm)

Ogden Point Dive Centre (Map; 250-380-9119, 888-701-1177; www.divevictoria.com; 199 Dallas Rd; 9am-6pm)



Tours



Architectural Institute of BC (Map; 604-683-8588, 800-667-0753; www.aibc.ca; 1001 Douglas St; tours $5; 1pm Tue-Sat, Jul & Aug) Five great-value, building-themed walking tours covering angles from art deco to ecclesiastical.

Cycle Treks (Map; 250-386-2277, 877-733-6722; www.cycletreks.com; 450 Swift St; tours from $50; 9:30am-6pm Mon-Sat) Three- to four-hour seafront-themed cycling tour (bikes provided); one of the best ways to encounter Victoria.

Gray Line West (Map; 250-388-6539, 800-663-8390; www.graylinewest.com; 700 Douglas St; adult/child from $20.50/10.25) Offers 90-minute double-decker bus tours of the city starting from the Fairmont Empress Hotel.

Hidden Dragon Tours (Map; 250-920-0881, 866-920-0881; www.oldchinatown.com; 541 Fisgard St; adult/child $29/14.50) Fascinating three-hour, behind-the-scenes lantern tour of old Chinatown.



Festivals & Events



Victoria Day Parade Mid-May street fiesta shenanigans with dancers and marching bands.

Victoria SkaFest (www.victoriaskafest.ca) Canada’s largest ska music event, held in mid-July.

Victoria Jazzfest International (www.vicjazz.bc.ca) Ten days of jazz performance in late June.

Moss Street Paint-In In mid-July 100 artists demonstrate their skills at this popular one-day community event.

Symphony Splash (www.symphonysplash.ca) In early August, the Victoria Symphony Orchestra performs from an Inner Harbour barge.

Victoria Fringe Theatre Festival (www.victoriafringe.com) Two-weeks of quirky short plays staged throughout the city in late August.

Victoria Cycling Festival (www.victoriacyclingfestival.com) A mid-September weekend family-friendly fiesta of cycling races and bike events.



Sleeping

From heritage B&Bs to midrange motels and swanky high-end sleepovers, Victoria is stuffed with accommodations options for all budgets. Off-season sees some great sleepover deals and Tourism Victoria’s room reservation service (250-953-2033, 800-663-3883; www.tourismvictoria.com) can let you know what’s available.

BUDGET

Ocean Island Backpackers Inn (250-385-1788, 888-888-4180; www.oceanisland.com; 791 Pandora Ave; dm/s/d from $24/39/44; wi-fi) This funky, multicolored sleepover is a labyrinth of dorms and private rooms – ask for one with a window. There’s a communal kitchen and a licensed lounge for bands and DJs – avoid lower-floor rooms on show nights. A great place to meet fellow travelers. Daily guided excursions and tours include city, bike and history treks.

HI Victoria Hostel (Map; 250-385-4511, 888-883-0099; victoria@hihostels.ca; 516 Yates St; dm/d $25/60; wi-fi) A well-located, quiet hostel with two large single-sex dorms, three small co-eds and a couple of private rooms. While renos are on the cards, it’s currently a little institutionalized with basic dorms, a large games room and a book-lined reading area. Free weekly city tours are offered.

MIDRANGE

Paul’s Motor Inn (Map; 250-382-9231, 866-333-7285; www.paulsmotorinn.com; 1900 Douglas St; d $104-119) A copper-roofed downtown landmark, Paul’s is like two properties in one: a strip of traditional road-facing motel rooms and a clutch of much quieter courtyard rooms out back. Geometric bedspreads and pastel paintwork color most interiors but the courtyard suites are much larger and suitable for small groups. All rooms have a fridge and some have a microwave – you can request one from the front desk, if required.

Ocean Island Suites (Map; 250-385-1788, 888-888-4180; www.oisuites.com; 143 Government St; ste $120; wi-fi) This renovated heritage home in a quiet residential enclave is a great deal for groups of up to four ($15 extra per person after double occupancy). Each of the four suites has an individual look – request the Burma suite and you’ll get a claw-foot bathtub – but all have hardwood floors and full kitchens. There’s a shared laundry room ($1.50) in the basement plus a large deck for summertime wine quaffing.

James Bay Inn (Map; 250-384-7151, 800-836-2649; www.jamesbayinn.bc.ca; 270 Government St; r from $129) A few minutes from the Emily Carr House, this quirky charmer has a well-maintained, retro feel. The charm might wear off when you realize there’s no elevator but once you lug your bags up the stairs, you’ll find a vast array of room types: most have busy-patterned carpets and furniture that’s old but not quite antique. There are some kitchenettes but the downstairs neighborhood bar also serves good pub grub.

Dalton Hotel & Suites (Map; 250-384-4136, 800-663-6101; www.daltonhotel.ca; 759 Yates St; d/tw/ste $129/139/169; wi-fi) The once-haggard Dominion Hotel – Victoria’s oldest – has been completely renovated. While cheaper rooms remain small and large suites are almost palatial, all have new furnishings and colonial chintz flourishes – some even have chaise lounges. Add extra time for the painfully slow elevator to arrive.



Queen Victoria (Map; 250-386-1312, 800-663-7007; www.qvhotel.com; 655 Douglas St; d/ste from $133/152; ) An older tower block property that’s undergone a transformation. The rooms here have abandoned the floral bedspreads in favor of a smart business hotel feel. All have new bathrooms and fridges, some have kitchenettes and many overlook Beacon Hill Park from their little balconies. The two-bedroom suites are popular with small groups and there’s a good on-site restaurant.

Shamrock Suites (Map; 250-385-8768, 800-294-5544; www.shamrocksuites.com; 675 Superior St; d/ste $149/185; wi-fi) An immaculate, pea-green–painted motel overlooking Beacon Hill Park, the 16-unit Shamrock attracts couples and families with its spacious rooms, sunrise-facing balcony and free summer breakfast buffet. All rooms and one-bedroom suites have full kitchens and there’s a chill-out garden at the back. Call ahead for year-round room discounts.

Rosewood Victoria Inn (Map; 250-384-6644, 866-986-2222; www.rosewoodvictoria.com; 595 Michigan St; d from $150; wi-fi) This bright and breezy guesthouse has the outward appearance of a lace-lined B&B (check the teapot collection lining the lobby) but the superior rooms are immaculately maintained and the gourmet breakfast can run from spinach crГЄpes to coconut-and-almond scones. Bring your laptop to the library-like lounge for wireless access or hit the selection of board games.



Isabella’s Guest Suites (Map; 250-812-9216; www.isabellasbb.com; 537 Johnson St; ste from $150; wi-fi) A pair of immaculate, self-contained adult-oriented suites in the heart of downtown, this home-from-home sleepover delivers hardwood floors, elegant interiors and full kitchens. If you don’t fancy cooking, head downstairs to the brick-lined Willie’s Bakery with your gift voucher (included in your room rate) – eggs Benedict is recommended here.

Chateau Victoria Hotel & Suites (250-382-4221, 800-663-5891; www.chateauvictoria.com; 740 Burdett Ave; d/ste/penthouse from $152/202/400; wi-fi) This popular, locally-owned tower block hotel still has an ’80s feel in many of its rooms but all are clean and well maintained. Many rooms have kitchens and all are a decent size but there’s also a good deal on the giant penthouse suites if you’re traveling in a small group: spread out with two bedrooms, full kitchen and a large lounge or just hang out on your ample balcony. The hotel’s top-floor restaurant has the city’s best views.

TOP END

Spinnakers Guesthouses (Map; 250-384-2739, 877-838-2739; www.spinnakers.com; 308 Catherine St; r/ste $179/239; wi-fi) A short stumble from its own excellent brewpub Click here, this clutch of adult-oriented guesthouses combines luxury details with pampering home comforts. The Heritage House is a restored 1884 family home with antiques, fireplaces and private patios. The larger Garden Suites have a contemporary feel and a smattering of Asian design flourishes. Gourmet continental breakfast is included.

Swans Suite Hotel (Map; 250-361-3310, 800-668-7926; www.swanshotel.com; 506 Pandora Ave; d/ste $199/289) Across the street from the tiny railway station – you’ll hear the train toot into town twice a day – this former old brick warehouse has been transformed into a lovely, art-lined boutique sleepover. Most of the rooms are spacious loft suites where you climb upstairs to bed in a gabled nook, and each is decorated with a comfy combination of wood beams, rustic chic furniture and deep leather sofas. The full kitchens are handy but you’ll also want to spend some time in the brewpub bar and Pacific Northwest restaurant downstairs.

Oswego Hotel (Map; 250-294-7500, 877-767-9346; www.oswegovictoria.com; 500 Oswego St; d/ste from $220/300) Designer lounge hotels have finally made it to Victoria with the opening of this James Bay boutique property, combining west coast esthetics with a quiet residential location. Granite floors and cedar beams are much in evidence but the rooms aren’t just about good looks: all have kitchens (think stainless steel) and deep baths, and most have balconies, making them more like apartments than hotel suites. Cleverly, the smaller studio rooms have space-saving high-end Murphy beds.



Fairmont Empress Hotel (Map; 250-348-8111, 866-540-4429; www.fairmont.com/empress; 721 Government St; r from $249; ) Grand old lady of the Inner Harbour, this ivy-covered century-old edifice has been wowing visitors for decades. Most rooms are elegant but conservative and some are quite small but the overall effect – including an oak-beamed restaurant serving Raj-style curry and a high tea sipped while overlooking the waterfront – is regal and old-school classy. Even if you don’t stay, make sure you stroll through and soak up the ambience.

Eating

Formerly dominated by tourist traps serving nothing but poor quality fish and chips, Victoria’s dining scene has been transformed in recent years. Pick up Eat Magazine (free) to see what’s on the menu and keep in mind that hours are often extended ad hoc in summer.

BUDGET

Dutch Bakery (Map; 250-385-1012; 718 Fort St; mains $4-7; 7:30am-5:30pm Mon-Sat) This charming downtown institution has been packing them in for decades with its Formica countertops, old lady ambiance and simple light meals. Rub shoulders with the regulars and they’ll recommend a beef pie with potato salad followed by a fruit-pie chaser. Check out the handmade candies on display near the entrance and pick up some marzipan teeth for the road.

Pig BBQ Joint (Map; 250-381-4677; 749 View St; mains $5; 9am-7pm Mon-Fri) Vegetarians stay away in droves from this aptly-named Texas-style hole-in-the-wall, but that’s probably because they’re scared of being converted to the carnivore lifestyle. Hulking sandwiches of the melt-in-your-mouth pulled pork variety (beef brisket and smoked chicken variations are also offered) dominate the simple menu and you can wash that down with a pail of homemade ice tea. Expect lunchtime queues (better to arrive early or late) and consider perking up your order with a side of succulent cornbread or a fried-banana-and-peanut-butter sandwich dessert.

Sam’s Deli (Map; 250-382-8424; 805 Government St; mains $5-8; 7:30am-7pm Mon-Fri, 8am-7pm Sat, 9am-6pm Sun) It’s not just the nearby Inner Harbour that makes this fuel-up spot permanently popular: it also makes darn good sandwiches, although you’ll need a particularly large mouth to chomp down on some of them. Signature sarnies feature roast beef or pastrami but the bulging vegetarian sandwich is also popular. A good takeout spot, it’s a short stroll from here to picnic-friendly Beacon Hill Park.

MIDRANGE

Floyd’s Diner (Map; 250-381-5114; 866 Yates St; mains $6-11; 8am-5pm Mon-Fri; 9am-5pm Sat & Sun) A funky eatery with an ultrafriendly vibe, Floyd’s combines a sun-drenched patio, warming blood-red interior and a menu of serious comfort food – it’s the spot to recover from a throbbing hangover. Along with the all-day breakfast menu, there are some bulging burgers and sandwiches and a great lunch deal: a $5.50 bottomless bowl of soup.

Legislative Dining Room (Map; 250-387-3959; Room 606 Parliament Buildings; mains $6-16 9am-3pm Mon-Thu, 9am-2pm Fri) One of Victoria’s best-kept dining secrets, the Parliament Buildings has its own subsidized restaurant where MPs (and the public) can drop by for a silver-service menu of regional dishes, ranging from smoked tofu salads to velvety steaks and shrimp quesadillas. It’s cash only and entry is via the security desk just inside the building’s main entrance.

Demitasse (Map; 250-386-4442; 1320 Blanshard St; mains $7-11; 7am-4pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat & Sun) Where local grunge geeks come to sup endless cups of coffee and compare their latest vintage clothing purchases, laid-back Demitasse offers mismatched wooden tables and simple, hearty meals. Soups, wraps and sandwiches dominate the menu and there are plenty of vegetarian-friendly options.

John’s Place (Map; 250-389-0711; 723 Pandora Ave; mains $7-16; 7am-9pm Mon-Thu, 7am-10pm Fri, 8am-10pm Sat, 8am-9pm Sun) Victoria’s best weekend brunch spot, this wood-floored, high-ceilinged heritage room is lined with funky memorabilia and the menu is a cut above standard diner fare. Heaping Belgian waffles are served with homemade cream cheese, and those who come for dinner can choose from a medley of international comfort foods, from calamari to pierogies.

Noodle Box (Map; 250-384-1314; 818 Douglas St; mains $8-12; 11am-9pm Mon-Thu, 11am-10pm Fri & Sat, noon-7pm Sun) South East Asian cuisine is the approach at this buzzing business that started out as a street vendor. A great place for takeout (served in those funky boxes), it’s also a chatty eat-in spot. Try the Cambodian Jungle Curry for a spicy kick in the mouth and look out for additional outlets: they’re expanding around the town.

Lotus Pond (Map; 250-380-9293; 617 Johnson St; mains $8-16; 11am-3pm, 5-9pm Tue-Sat, noon-3pm, 5-8pm Sun) Behind the shabby, unassuming exterior of this downtown Chinese restaurant is an extensive, all-vegan menu of delights created using Buddhist principles. Even meat-eaters have been known to swoon here, as they tuck into surprisingly tasty spring rolls, dim sum and potstickers. Combo meals are the best option, since they offer an array of different flavors.

ReBar (Map; 250-360-2401; 50 Bastion Sq; mains $9-14; 8:30am-9pm Mon-Wed, 8:30am-10pm Thu-Sat, 8:30am-3:30pm Sun) A relaxing locals’ favorite, Rebar fuses colorful interiors with a clever, mostly vegetarian menu. Carnivores will be just as happy here, though, with hearty savory dishes like shitake-tofu potstickers and an array of dense fruit smoothies. Weekend brunch is popular and heavily patronized by hung-over students moaning quietly from the corners.

Möle (Map; 250-385-6653; 554 Pandora Ave; mains $10-18; 8am-3pm daily, 5:30-11pm Wed-Mon) Lined with funky local artworks, this laid-back, wood-floored joint is popular for breakfast – try the curry tofu scramble – but also attracts the hip art school crowd with its daytime menu of comfort classics and adventurous fusion dishes (think organic hamburgers, Mac n’ cheese and yam wraps). The excellent beer selection includes Phillips and Lighthouse craft brews.



* * *



TOP FIVE SUNDAY BRUNCH SPOTS



The fruit-topped Belgian waffles at John’s Place (left) are worth dying for.

Try the salmon-and-cream-cheese bagel melt at ReBar (above).

Möle (above) does a finger-licking curry tofu scramble.

Look for the вЂ˜Elton’, a heaping bowl of fruit, yogurt and honey, at Floyd’s Diner (left).

вЂ˜Jayne Mansfield’ ricotta cheese pancakes are served up at Pagliacci’s (above).





* * *



Pagliacci’s (Map; 250-386-1662; 1011 Broad St; mains $16-22; 11:30am-3pm Mon-Sat, 10am-3pm Sun, 5:30-10pm Sun-Thu, 5:30-11pm Sat & Sun) You’re almost guaranteed to make a couple of new friends at вЂ˜Pag’s’ since you’ll be sitting elbow-to-elbow with the diners at the next table. But it’s worth it for a menu of dishes such as Mae West Veal Medallions and Hot Transvestite SautГ©ed Chicken, each served with a heap of salad, vegetables and perfect pasta. Save room for dessert: a frightening array of giant cheesecakes.

TOP END

Camille’s (Map; 250-381-3433; 45 Bastion Sq; mains $18-26; 5:30-10pm Tue-Sat) The granddaddy of Victoria’s fine dining scene, adventurous Camille’s still challenges. Its charming subterranean dining room offers a lively, ever-changing menu reflecting whatever the chef can source locally: if wild strawberries are in season, they’ll appear in soups and savory dishes as well as desserts. With a great wine menu, this spot invites adventurous foodies.

Brasserie L’Ecole (Map; 250-475-6260; 1715 Government St; mains $19-28; 5:30-11pm Tue-Sun) Incongruously abutting Chinatown, this superb bistro offers country-style French cuisine in a warm, casual atmosphere. Locally sourced produce is de rigueur, so the menu constantly changes to reflect seasonal highlights like figs, salmonberries and heirloom tomatoes. We recommend the lamb shank, served with mustard-creamed root vegetables and braised chard.

Zambri’s (Map; 250-360-1171; 911 Yates St; mains $20-25; 11:30am-2:45pm, 5-9pm Tue-Sat) Run by a second-generation Italian chef, the menu here is far from traditional trattoria fare. Unassuming from the outside, the ever-changing dishes might range from a hearty squash soup with butter-fried sage to a mouth-melting sablefish, served with rapini and poached eggs. Savvy diners drop by on Saturdays, when a creative five-course tasting menu hits the blackboard.

Drinking

One of BC’s best beer towns, Victoria offers local craft brews and a frothy array of great watering holes. Look out for tipples by local lads Phillips Brewing – their Blue Truck Ale is recommended. Extensive first-hand research was undertaken for these reviews.

Spinnakers Gastro Brewpub (Map; 250-386-2739; 308 Catherine St; 11am-10:30pm) A pioneering craft brewer and local favorite, this wood-floored pub is a waterfront walk or taxi ride from the Inner Harbour but it’s worth it for the lip-smacking selection of tasty brews. Summer drinkers often enjoy the lighter Honey Blonde Ale, while those with darker palates should make for the Nut Brown. Save room for dinner: the menu of seasonal, locally-sourced dishes is superior to most pubs and includes some excellent seafood.

Canoe Brewpub (Map; 250-361-1940; 450 Swift St; 11:30am-midnight Sun-Thu, 11:30am-1am Fri & Sat) The cavernous brick-lined interior here is popular on rainy days but you can also enjoy the sun on a large waterfront patio. Another good spot for food, Canoe’s own-brewed beers – that’s the stuff in those giant cooper tanks – includes the hoppy Red Canoe Lager and the summer-friendly Siren’s Song Pale Ale.

Irish Times (Map; 250-383-7775; 1200 Government St; 11am-1am) Colonizing a former downtown bank building, this lively Celtic bar is a cut above standard Irish pubs. The interior is a pleasing fusion of high ceilings and dark wood finishes and the draft selection is a buffet of classics from Ireland, France and Belgium. The menu has daily specials (pizza and beer is $9.99 on Wednesdays) and there’s live Irish music every night.

Sticky Wicket (Map; 250-383-7137; 919 Douglas St; 11am-11pm Sun-Thu, 11am-midnight Fri & Sat) For a noisy night out with the locals, the Wicket’s main bar serves mainstream beers, while its menu offers heaped plates of standard pub grub – ranging from bulging burgers all the way to chicken strips. Live sports are pumped through the TVs and there’s a pool room upstairs if you need to exercise your cue arm. The complex’s highlight bar is Big Bad John’s, a tiny hillbilly nook with log-lined walls and a carpet of peanut shells.

Entertainment

LIVE MUSIC

Lucky Bar (Map; 250-382-5825; www.luckybar.ca; 517 Yates St; cover free-$10) A Victoria institution, downtown’s eclectic Lucky Bar offers an array of live music from ska and indie to electroclash. There are bands here at least twice a week, while the remaining evenings are occupied by dance-floor club nights, including Wednesday’s mod fest and Saturday’s mix night.

Logan’s Pub (Map; 250-360-2711; www.lo ganspub.com; 1821 Cook St; cover free-$15) A 10-minute walk from downtown in the Cook St Village area, this sports pub looks like nothing special from the outside, but its roster of shows is a main fixture of the local indie scene. Fridays and Saturdays are your best bet for performances but other nights are frequently also booked – check their online calendar to see what’s coming up.

Darcy’s Pub (Map; 250-380-1322; www.darcyspub.ca; 1127 Wharf St; cover free) This laid-back downtown bar offers free live acts every night, ranging from weekend cover bands to a Monday night open mic session. In between, it’s all about singer-songwriters beloved of the local student population. It’s a convivial spot to hang out, complete with half-price chicken wings on Mondays and Wednesdays and a beer menu centered on local brews from Vancouver Island Brewing.

NIGHTCLUBS

Conveniently located under the Sticky Wicket pub, Legends (Map; 250-383-7137; www.legendsnightclub.com; 919 Douglas St; cover free-$15) is a mainstream hangout known for its Saturday Top 40, hip-hop and R&B night. Friday is also popular and there are also regular live acts. A long-standing, popular alternative that’s only open a few days a week, two-floored Sugar (Map; 250-920-9950; 858 Yates St; cover free-$20; Thu-Sat) is also a mainstreamers haunt, with Top 40 sounds (under a giant disco ball) plus live events. The city’s raucous gay and lesbian hangout, Prism Lounge (Map; 250-388-0505; www.prismlounge.com; 642 Johnson St) hosts nightly events, including karaoke evenings and drag fests. The Friday and Saturday night dance parties here are the main attraction.

THEATRE

Victoria’s main stages, McPherson Playhouse (Map; 250-386-6121; www.rmts.bc.ca; 3 Centennial Sq) and Royal Theatre (Map; 250-386-6121; www.rmts.bc.ca; 805 Broughton St), each offers mainstream theater productions. The latter is also home of the Victoria Symphony (250-385-6515; www.victoriasymphony.bc.ca; tickets $19-60) and Pacific Opera Victoria (250-382-1641; www.pov.bc.ca; tickets $25-100 Apr-Oct). A 15-minute stroll from downtown, the city’s Belfry Theatre (Map; 250-385-6815; www.belfry.bc.ca; 1291 Gladstone Ave) showcases contemporary plays.

CINEMAS

The city’s main first-run cinema is Cineplex Odeon (Map; 250-383-0513; 780 Yates St; tickets $8.25). Art-house flicks hit the screen at the Vic Theatre (Map; 250-383-1998; 808 Douglas St; adult/child $8.50/5.50) and UVic’s Cinecenta (250-721-8365; www.cinecenta.com; University of Victoria; adult/child $6.75/4.75). The Royal BC Museum’s IMAX Theatre (Map; 250-953-4629; www.imaxvictoria.com; adult/child $10.50/8.25) shows larger-than-life documentaries.

Shopping

While Government St is a magnet for souvenir shoppers, those looking for more worthwhile purchases should head to the Johnson St stretch between Store and Government. Newly designated as вЂ˜LoJo’ (Lower Johnson), this old-town area is a hotbed of 40 independent stores.

Smoking Lilly (Map; 250-382-5459; 569 Johnson St; 11am-5:30pm Thu-Sat, noon-5pm Sun & Mon) LoJo’s signature shop is a tiny boutique stuffed with eclectic garments and accessories that define art-school chic. Tops and skirts with insect prints are hot items, but there are also lots of cute handbags, socks and brooches to tempt your credit card.

Silk Road (Map; 250-704-2688; 1624 Government St; 10am-6pm Mon-Sat, 11am-5pm Sun) A pilgrimage spot for regular and exotic tea fans. You can pick up all manner of tea paraphernalia here or sidle up to the tasting bar to quaff some adventurous brews. Surprisingly, there’s also a small on-site spa where you can indulge in oil treatments and aromatherapy.

Artisan Wine Shop (Map; 250-384-9994; 1007 Government St; 10am-9pm) Reflecting BC’s wine-producing expertise, this popular store showcases the tipples of Mission Hill, one of the Okanagan’s most celebrated producers. A minitheatre walks you through the process, a tasting bar serves those who like to quaff before buying and an impressive selection of vintages is offered for sale.

Rogers’ Chocolate (Map; 250-727-6851; 913 Government St; 9am-7pm Sun-Wed, 9am-9pm Thu-Sat) This museum-like confectioners has the best ice cream bars in town but repeat offenders usually spend their time guiltily hitting the menu of rich Victoria Creams, one of which is usually enough to substitute for lunch. Flavors range from peppermint to chocolate nut.

Government St Public Market (250-598-2593; 1600 Government St; Sun May-Sep) An eclectic mix of vendors and performers transform this stretch at the 1600-block of Government St into a bustling pedestrianized street market on summer Sundays. Expect lots of artsy trinkets and a handful of food stalls – try to arrive early to beat the crowds.

Getting There & Away

AIR

Victoria International Airport (off Map; 250-953-7500; www.victoriaairport.com) is 26km north of the city via Hwy 17. Air Canada Jazz (514-393-3333, 888-247-2262; www.aircanada.com) services arrive here from Vancouver (from $91, 25 minutes, up to 21 daily) while Westjet (800-538-5696; www.westjet.com) flights arrive from Calgary (from $180, 90 minutes, five daily). Both airlines offer connections across Canada.

Harbour Air Seaplanes (604-274-1277, 800-665-0212; www.harbour-air.com) arrive in the Inner Harbour from downtown Vancouver ($120, 35 minutes) throughout the day. Similar West Coast Air (604-606-6888, 800-347-2222; www.west coastair.com) services arrive from Vancouver ($119, 35 minutes) and from Whistler ($249, one hour).

BOAT

BC Ferries (250-386-3431, 888-223-3779; www.bcferries.com) arrive from mainland Tsawwassen (adult/child/vehicle $10.30/5.15/34.20, 90 minutes) at Swartz Bay, 27km north of Victoria via Hwy 17. Regular services also arrive from the Southern Gulf Islands.

Victoria Clipper (250-382-8100, 800-888-2535; www.clippervacations.com) services arrive in the Inner Harbour from Seattle (US$69, three hours, up to three a day). Black Ball Transport (250-386-2202; www.ferrytovictoria.com) boats also arrive from Port Angeles (passenger/vehicle US$11.50/$44, 90 minutes, up to four daily) and Victoria Express (250-361-9144; www.victoriaexpress.com) services arrive from Port Angeles (US$12.50, one hour, up to four daily) and the San Juan Islands (US$35, three hours, once a day).

BUS

Services terminating at the city’s main bus station (Map; 700 Douglas St) include Greyhound Canada (800-661-8747; www.greyhound.ca) routes from Nanaimo ($18.75, 2½ hours, six daily) and Port Alberni ($35.85, four to six hours, three daily), along with frequent Pacific Coach Lines (250-385-4411, 800-661-1725; www.pacificcoach.com) services from Vancouver ($37.50, 3½ hours) and Vancouver International Airport ($43, four hours).

CAR & MOTORCYCLE



Budget (Map; 260-953-5300, 800-668-9833; www.budgetvictoria.com; 757 Douglas St)

National (Map; 250-386-1213, 800-227-7368; www.nationalvictoria.com; 767 Douglas St)



TRAIN

The charming VIA Rail (888-842-7245; www.viarail.com) Malahat train arrives in the city near the Johnson St Bridge from Courtenay ($49, 4ВЅ hours, once a day), with additional up-island stops in Nanaimo, Parksville and Chemainus, among others.

Getting Around

TO/FROM THE AIRPORT

AKAL Airporter (250-386-2525; 877-386-2525; www.victoriaairporter.com) minibuses run between the airport and area hotels ($15, 30 minutes). The service meets all the airport’s incoming and outgoing flights. In contrast, a taxi to downtown costs around $45, while transit bus 70 (35 minutes, three to five a day) costs $3.

BICYCLE

Victoria is a great cycling capital with plenty of routes crisscrossing the city and beyond. Contact Greater Victoria Cycling Coalition (Map; 250-480-5155; www.gvcc.bc.ca; 12 Centennial Sq) for route maps and information. Bike rentals are available from Cycle BC Rentals (Map; 250-380-2453, 866-380-2453; www.cyclebc.ca; 747 Douglas St; per hr/day $7/24; 9am-5pm Nov-Feb, 9am-7pm Mar-Oct) and Sports Rent (Map; 250-385-7368; www.sports rentbc.com; 1950 Government St; per 2hr/day $12/25; 9am-5:30pm Mon-Thu & Sat, 9am-6pm Fri, 10am-5pm Sun).

BOAT

Victoria Harbour Ferry (Map; 250-708-0201; www.victoriaharbourferry.com; tickets from $4) covers the Inner Harbour, Songhees Park (for Spinnakers Brewpub), Reeson’s Landing (for the LoJo shopping area) and other stops along the Gorge Waterway with its colorful armada of bath-sized little boats.

PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION & TAXI

Victoria Regional Transit (250-382-6161; www.busonline.ca) buses – including some double-deckers – cover a wide area in and around the city. All routes require a one- or two-zone ticket ($2.25/3) and tickets are valid for up to 60 minutes of transfer travel. Day passes ($7) are also available from convenience and grocery stores.

Established taxi providers:



Blue Bird Cabs (250-384-1155; 800-665-7055)

Yellow Cab (250-381-2222; 800-808-6881)




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SOUTHERN VANCOUVER ISLAND

Not far from Victoria’s madding crowds, Southern Vancouver Island is a laid-back region of quirky little towns that are never far from tree-lined cycle routes, waterfront hiking trails and rocky outcrops bristling with gnarly Garry oaks. The wildlife here is abundant and impressive and you’ll likely spot bald eagles swooping overhead, sea otter cavorting on the beaches or perhaps the occasional orca sliding silently by just off the coast.

Saanich Peninsula & Around

Home of Vancouver Island’s main regional airport and its much busier ferry terminal, this peninsula north of Victoria has more to offer than just a way to get from here to there. Pick up a copy of the Peninsula Times for local stories and happenings or drop by the Saanich Peninsula Visitor Centre (250-656-0525; 10382 Patricia Bay Hwy; 8:30am-5:30pm Jun-Sep) near Sidney for tips and insights on the area.

SIDNEY

At the northern end of Saanich Peninsula, seafront Sidney is a relaxing excursion from Victoria. Drop by the Visitor Centre (250-656-3260; www.sidney.ca; 2295 Ocean Ave; 10am-2pm & 4-7pm Jun-Sep) on the west side of town for local info.

A self-proclaimed вЂ˜booktown’ (see www.sidneybooktown.ca), Sidney has an inordinate number of bookshops, including Tanner’s (250-656-2345; 2436 Beacon Ave; 8am-10pm), with its extensive travel section, and Beacon Books (250-655-5283; 2372 Beacon Ave; 10am-5:30pm Mon-Sat, noon-4pm Sun) with its vast array of used tomes guarded by a portly cat.

The Marine Ecology Centre (250-655-1555; www.mareco.org; 9835 Seaport Pl; adult/child $4/3; noon-5pm) illuminates the salty wildlife found just off the coast here. A floating barge in the marina on our visit, it was scheduled to move to swanky new premises in the Sidney Pier Hotel.

You can check out the sea critters for yourself at Sidney Spit. Accessed via a short ferry ride (250-655-4995; www.alpinemarineadventurecenter.ca; adult/child $12/10; 10am-5pm Jul & Aug, 10am-3pm Mon-Fri & 10am-5pm Sat & Sun May, Jun & Sep), this sandy island is perfect for swimming, beachcombing and bird-watching.

Dominating the waterfront, the new Sidney Pier Hotel and Spa (250-655-9445, 866-659-9445; www.sidneypier.com; 9805 Seaport Pl; d/ste $159/299) fuses west coast lounge cool with beach pastel colors. Many rooms have waterfront views – some side-on – and each has local artworks lining the walls. There’s an excellent restaurant down below, complete with its own tea sommelier, and an unmissable artifact in the lobby: a large chunk of the Sea Shepherd Greenpeace vessel.

Across the street, the more modest Sidney Waterfront Inn & Suites (250-656-1131, 888-656-1131; www.hotelsidney.com; 9775 First St; d/ste from $150) offers large, chintzy rooms, some with kitchenettes and sea views.

If you can’t wait for your fish-and-chips fix, head to the nearby Pier Bistro Restaurant (250-655-4995; 2550 Beacon Ave; mains $9-12; 8:30am-5pm Mon, 8:30am-8:30pm Tue-Sun), which serves stunning waterfront views and a seafood-dominated menu – the oyster burger is recommended.

Victoria Regional Transit (250-382-6161; www.busonline.ca) bus 70 trundles into Sidney from Victoria ($3, one hour) throughout the day.

BUTCHART GARDENS

Industrialist Robert Butchart spotted limestone deposits here and chose this site in 1904 for his cement factory, while his more esthetically-minded wife Jennie planted sweet peas and a single rose bush, despite knowing little about gardening. More than a century later, the cement operation is dust but the huge, elaborately manicured Butchart Gardens (250-652-5256, 866-652-4422; www.butchartgardens.com; 800 Benvenuto Ave; adult/youth/child $25/12.50/3; 9am-10:30pm mid-Jun–Aug, closes earlier at other times of year) has become one of BC’s leading visitor destinations.

With its year-round kaleidoscope of colors and textures, the immaculate grounds here are divided into separate garden areas – the tranquil Japanese Garden is our favorite. Summer is crowded with the usual tour bus hordes but daily afternoon and evening music performances and Saturday-night fireworks (July and August) make it all worthwhile. Yuletide-loving December visitors are treated to thousands of fairy lights draped among the wintering plants.

Victoria Regional Transit bus 75 arrives from Victoria at Butchart Gardens ($3, 50 minutes, 18 times daily) and at points around the area.

VICTORIA BUTTERFLY GARDENS

En route to the Butchart Gardens, consider dropping by this family-friendly collection of tropical aviaries (250-652-3822, 877-722-0272; www.butterflygardens.com; 1461 Benvenuto Ave; adult/child $11/5.75; 9:30am-4:30pm Mar-mid–May & Sep-Oct, 9am-5:30pm mid-May–Aug), complete with 35 different butterfly species swirling around in a free-flying environment. Apart from the thrill of watching the thousands of fluttery critters, visitors can learn about their life cycles, as well as eyeballing exotic birds, fish and plants – listen out for Spike, a cheeky Puna ibis bird that likes to chat to visitors.

CENTRE OF THE UNIVERSE

Since вЂ˜Headquarters of the NRC Herzberg Institute of Astrophysics’ doesn’t exactly trip off the tongue, the excellently named Centre of the Universe (250-363-8262; 5071 W Saanich Rd; adult/child before 7pm $9/5, after 7pm $12/7; 3-11pm Tue-Sat Mar-Oct, 3-11pm Sat Nov-Feb) interpretive center came into being. Perched atop Observatory Hill, this government facility houses the Plaskett Telescope (in use since 1918) along with several hands-on exhibits and a miniplanetarium for the astronomically inclined. Starry-eyed visitors can crash the Star Party on Friday or Saturday evenings (May to October), when the astronomers chill out, show off their equipment and tackle thorny themes from asteroids to zero gravity.

GOLDSTREAM PROVINCIAL PARK

About 16km from Victoria on the Island Hwy, this scenic park (259-474-1336; www.bcparks.ca) at the base of Malahat Mountain makes for a restorative nature-themed day out from the city. Dripping with ancient, moss-covered cedar trees and a moist carpet of plant life, it’s known for its chum salmon spawning season (late October to December). Hungry bald eagles are attracted to the fish and birdwatchers come ready with their cameras. You’ll also find good fishing and hiking here, along with natural history exhibits at the Visitor Centre (250-478-9414; 9am-4:30pm). There’s also a roster of occasional lectures on the region’s human history and ecological heritage.

Highway 14

Rounding the island’s south-western tip along Hwy 14 will thread you through this progressively rugged region of forested coastline, prompting local tourism chiefs to deploy the slogan вЂ˜Where the rainforest meets the sea.’ At least it’s descriptive: lined with tangled trees and craggy waterfronts, the road here is like a verdant nature-themed safari park. Aside from the drive-by communities where you can drop in and rub shoulders with the locals – many operating their own B&Bs – this is also the home of some great hiking trails, inviting you to stretch your legs after a long drive.

SOOKE & AROUND

Heading west around the end of Vancouver Island, the roads are soon flanked by towering trees and overgrown hedgerows. The houses – many of them artisan workshops – seem to skulk in the shadows of the forest but, despite the spooky feel, the area has plenty of hidden charms. Drop by the Sooke Region Visitor Centre (250-642-6351, 866-888-4748; www.sooketourism.bc.ca; 2070 Philips Rd; 9am-5pm) for information.

Sharing the same building (and contacts) as the visitor center, Sooke Region Museum houses forestry artifacts and illuminates the area’s tough pioneer days.

If you can’t wait to get outdoors, though, head to Sooke Potholes Provincial Park (www.bcparks.ca), a 5km drive from Hwy 14 (the turn-off is east of Sooke). With rock pools and potholes carved into the river base during the last ice age, it’s a popular spot for swimming and tube floating and is ideal for a summer picnic.



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GALLOPING GOOSE

Starting north of Sooke, the Galloping Goose Trail – named for a noisy 1920s gas railcar that ran between here and Victoria – is a 55km bike and walking path on abandoned railway beds. If you’re not wiped out by the end of your ride from Victoria, you can cycle another 29km up the Saanich Peninsula to Sidney on the Lochside Regional Trail. It’s long been said that some of the best scenery is seen from the window of a train, and that’s true here. This route goes a step further by getting cyclists off the highways and into some usually unseen backcountry. Getting on and off the trails is easy since bus lines along both routes are bike-rack equipped. You can download free maps and guides for both these routes from the Capital Regional District (250-478-3344; www.crd.bc.ca/parks).





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For hikers, East Sooke Regional Park has some great trails. With surf crashing against the bluffs and a dense canopy of Douglas fir trees, it offers short strolls to the beach as well as a tough 10km coastal trail.

Sooke is also the end of the line for the popular Galloping Goose cycling trail (see boxed text). Rent a bike from Sooke Cycle (250-642-3123; www.sookebikes.com; 6707 West Coast Rd; per hr/day from $5/20; 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat & Sun) and hit the trail peddling.

You’ll find B&Bs dotted along the route here but, for one of the province’s most delightful and splurge-worthy sleepovers, head to Whiffen Spit and Sooke Harbour House (250-642-3421, 800-889-9688; www.sookeharbourhouse.com; 1528 Whiffen Spit Rd; ste $399-479). Paintings, sculptures and carved wood line its interiors. Some of the 28 rooms have fireplaces and steam showers and all have views across the wildlife-strewn waterfront – look for gamboling sea otter and swooping cranes.

You can eat in the hotel’s regionally-biased, excellent restaurant or come back down to earth at the seasonal Smokin’ Tuna Café (250-642-3816; 241 Beecher Bay Rd; mains $8-16; 11am-6pm Mon-Wed, 11am-8pm Thu-Sun May-Oct), which serves up delectable fresh-caught treats along with great seafront views from its sunny patio.

JUAN DE FUCA PROVINCIAL PARK

The 47km Juan de Fuca Marine Trail (www.juande fucamarinetrail.com) in Juan de Fuca Provincial Park (250-474-1336; www.bcparks.ca) joins the popular West Coast Trail as a must-do trek for Vancouver Island’s outdoorsy visitors. From east to west, its trailhead access points are China Beach, Sombrio Beach, Parkinson Creek and Botanical Beach.

It takes around four days to complete the full route – the most difficult stretch is between Bear Beach and China Beach – but you don’t have to go the whole hog if you want to take things a little easier. Be aware that some sections are often muddy and difficult to hike and bear sightings are not uncommon.

The route has several backcountry campsites and you can pay your camping fee ($5) at any of the trailheads. The most popular is the family-friendly China Beach Campground (604-689-9025, 800-689-9025; www.discovercamping.ca; campsite $14), which has pit toilets and cold-water faucets but no showers. There’s a waterfall at the western end of the beach and booking ahead is recommended.

Booking is also required on the West Coast Trail Express (250-477-8700, 888-999-2288; www.trail bus.com) minibus that runs between Victoria, the trailheads and Port Renfrew (from $30, one daily in each direction).

PORT RENFREW

Handily nestled between the Juan de Fuca and West Coast trails, Port Renfrew is a great access point for either route. Quiet and often stormy during the off-season, it’s usually dripping with preparing or recuperating hikers in summer. It has several spots to stock up on supplies or just fraternize with other trekkers and it’s worth dropping by the Visitor Centre (www.portrenfrew.com; 10am-6pm May-Sep) on your left as you enter the town.

If you’ve had enough of your sleeping bag, try Renfrew’s Trailhead Resort (250-647-5468; www.trailhead-resort.com; 17268 Parkinson Rd; ste/cabin $110/225), complete with motel-style lodge rooms and some two-bedroomed cabins. An ideal place to wind down after a long hike, its facilities include barbecues and hot tubs.

For a break from campground mystery-meat pasta, the nearby Coastal Kitchen Cafe (250-647-5545; 17245 Parkinson Rd; mains $8-14; 5am-8pm) serves fresh salads and sandwiches, plus burgers and pizzas. The seafood is the star attraction – especially the Dungeness crab and chips. Hikers are often found lolling around outside on the picnic tables here.


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COWICHAN VALLEY

A swift Hwy 1 drive northwest of Victoria, the verdant Cowichan Valley region is ripe for discovery, especially if you’re a traveling foodie who likes visiting friendly farms and boutique wineries. Once dominated by forestry – most of the towns here were built on the logging industry – the area is home to the Cowichan First Nations and is a recommended area for multiday cycling treks. Contact Tourism Cowichan (250-746-1099, 888-303-3337; www.visit.cowichan.net) for maps and information on the area’s food and wine trails.

DUNCAN

pop 4900

An old logging industry outpost, latter-day Duncan has revitalized itself as a key regional hub. For visitors, it’s a place to stock up on supplies, grab a coffee with the locals or check out the 50 totem poles colorfully dotted around town. Visit the Visitor Centre (250-746-4636, 888-303-3337; www.duncancc.bc.ca; 381 Hwy 1; 9am-5pm mid-Apr–mid-Oct) for info on its free summertime guided pole walks.



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WHAT THE…?

Make your way to Duncan’s Cowichan Community Centre and you’ll come across the somewhat forlorn World’s Largest Hockey Stick, clinging improbably to its exterior like it might fall off and clunk you on the head at any moment. The 62m, 28,000kg stick, complete with its own monster puck, was commissioned for Vancouver’s Expo 86.





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If your First Nations curiosity is piqued, head to the Quw’utsun’ Cultural & Conference Centre (250-746-8119, 877-746-8119; www.quwutsun.ca; 200 Cowichan Way; adult/youth/child $13/11/2; 10am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun mid-Apr–Sep) to learn about carving, beading and traditional salmon runs.

Alternatively, drive 3km north to the BC Forest Discovery Centre (250-715-1113, 866-715-1113; www.discoveryforest.com; 2892 Drinkwater Rd; adult/child $11/6; 10am-5pm Jun-Aug, 10am-4:30pm Thu-Mon Apr-May & Sep), complete with its pioneer-era buildings, logging machinery and a working steam train.

Salivating curry fans should also save time to drop by the Spice Shack Eatery (250-701-4230; 248 Hwy 1; mains $4-8; 11:30am-9pm) for a dose of local Cowichan Valley ingredients transformed with traditional Pakistani flavors. Must-scoffs here include giant vegetable pakoras and the kind of cinnamon-infused rice that addictions are made of.

COWICHAN LAKE & AROUND

West of Duncan on Hwy 18, the waterfront town of Lake Cowichan is a good base for exploring the region. Drop by the Visitor Centre (250-749-3244; www.lakecowichan.ca; 125-C South Shore Rd; 9am-5pm Tue-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun & Mon) for tips on the area.

The nearby South Shore Motel (250-749-6482, 888-749-6482; www.cowichanlakemotel.com; 266 South Shore Rd; s/d $50/65) offers standard but comfortable rooms (some with kitchenettes) and you can indulge in some hearty sustenance at the Shaker Mill (250-749-6350; 72 Cowichan Lake Rd; mains $8-11; 8am-8pm) restaurant, which serves home-style specials and has a couple of patios where you can watch over the town.

COWICHAN BAY

Not to be confused with the town of Cowichan Lake, this clutch of bright-painted clapboard buildings perching on stilts over an ocean inlet includes artisan workshops, funky eateries and local characters. Drop by the shared premises of Hilary’s Cheese Company (250-748-5992; 1725 Cowichan Bay Rd; 8am-6pm Wed-Sat, 8am-5pm Sun) and Grain Bread (250-746-7664; 8am-6pm Wed-Sat, 8am-5pm Sun) for tasty treats.

For a swanky sit-down scoff, try Masthead (250-748-3714; 1705 Cowichan Bay Rd; mains $24-29; 5-10pm), where seafood treats like prosciutto-wrapped snapper combine with lovely views. After fuelling up, duck into the Maritime Centre (250-746-4955; www.classicboats.org; 1761 Cowichan Bay Rd; admission by donation; 9am-dusk) to chat with local artists about Coast Salish carving, culture and boat building.

CARMANAH WALBARN PROVINCIAL PARK

Home to some of BC’s most elderly residents, the old-growth spruce and cedar trees in this magnificent but remote park (250-474-1336; www.bcparks.ca) frequently top more than 1000 years. With an ancient and mythical ambiance, its trails are well maintained and easy to follow: once you’re there, it’s a half-hour walk down the valley to commune with the tallest trees.

It’s only accessible via active logging roads: you’ll have to drive to get to the trailhead. Follow South Shore Rd from Lake Cowichan to Nitinat Main Rd and bear left. Then follow Nitinat Main to Nitinat Junction and turn left onto South Main. Continue to the Caycus River Bridge and, just south of the bridge, turn right and follow Rosander Main for 29km to the park. Basic campsites are available here and there’s a phone and gas station on the Didtidaht Reserve at Nitinat Lake.

CHEMAINUS

pop 4500

After the last sawmill shut down in 1983, tiny Chemainus became the model for BC communities dealing with declining resource jobs. Instead of submitting to a slow death, town officials commissioned a giant wall mural depicting local history. People took notice, 34 more murals and 13 sculptures were ordered, and a new tourism industry was born. Check the Visitor Centre (250-246-3944; www.chemainus.bc.ca; 9796 Willow St; 9am-5:30pm May-Oct, 9am-5pm Mon-Fri & 10am-4pm Sat Nov-Apr) for mural maps and information.



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VANCOUVER ISLAND’S UNEXPECTED WINE COUNTRY

Eyebrows were raised when the Cowichan Valley region began proclaiming itself as Vancouver Island’s version of Provence a few years back, but the wine snobs have been choking on their words ever since.



Cowichan, which translates as вЂ˜warm land’ in the local First Nations dialect, has the longest grape-growing season in Canada and combines an ideal growing climate with rich clay soils. Visitors to the region – especially those with a designated driver – can often be found indulging in a few tipples at dozens of boutique wineries, making sure they stop off at the plethora of farm shops and rustic eateries along the way to soak up all that booze.



Favorite stops include Cherry Point Vineyards (250-743-1272; www.cherrypointvineyards.com; 840 Cherry Point Rd, Cobble Hill; 10am-5pm) with its lip-smacking blackberry port, Glenterra Vineyards (250-743-2330; 3897 Cobble Hill Rd, Cobble Hill; 11am-6pm May-Sep, noon-5pm Thu-Mon Oct-Apr) with its organic approach to production and Merridale Estate Cidery (250-743-4293, 800-998-9908; www.merridalecider.com; 1230 Merridale Rd, Cobble Hill; 10:30am-4:30pm), an inviting apple-cider producer offering six varieties as well as a new brandy-distilling operation.



If you can, time your visit for the three-day Cowichan Wine & Culinary Festival (888-303-3337; www.wines.cowichan.net) in late September, when regional producers showcase their wares in a series of tasty events.



For more information on the wineries of this area and across Vancouver Island, check www.wineislands.ca.





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Stroll the streets on a mural hunt and you’ll pass artsy boutiques and tempting ice-cream shops. In the evening, the surprisingly large Chemainus Theatre (250-246-9800, 800-565-7738; www.chemainustheatrefestival.ca; 9737 Chemainus Rd; tickets $29-36) stages professional productions – mostly popular plays and musicals.

Developed in partnership with the theater – ask about show packages – the Chemainus Festival Inn (250-246-4181, 877-246-4181; www.fes tivalinn.ca; 9573 Chemainus Rd; r $139-219; ) is like a midrange business hotel from a much larger town. Rooms are slick and comfortable and many include kitchens.

You can rub shoulders with the locals at the nearby Twisted Sisters Tea Room (250-246-1541; 9885 Maple St; mains $5-12; 11am-11pm; ), a lively hangout with light meals, vegetarian options, a smorgasbord of tea varieties and weekend music and movie nights.

LADYSMITH & YELLOW POINT

Once a buzzing hub for the island’s coal and forestry industries – hence the sturdy colonial buildings lining First Ave – steep-streeted, heritage-colored Ladysmith stretches languidly along its park-lined harbor-front. Its old Edwardian banks and trading houses are now occupied by artsy shops and coffee bars.

Drop by the Visitor Centre (250-245-2112, 877-245-2112; www.ladysmithcofc.com; 132-C Roberts St; 9am-4pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun Jun-Sep, 9am-4pm Mon-Fri Oct-May) and ask about the historic tours (by donation). And if you’re here in August, drop by the annual three-day Ladysmith Days (www.ladysmithdays.com) festival, a colorful community celebration of local people and heritage.

Downhill from the town hub, Transfer Beach Park attracts swimmers and picnickers and has summertime live music in its large amphitheater. You can also hit the water here with the help of Sealegs Kayaking Adventures (250-245-4096, 877-529-2522; www.sealegskayaking.com; 579 Hillview Ave; rentals per hr/day $15.50/48, tours from $39), which offers a recommended full-moon tour.

For an out-of-town excursion north of Ladysmith, head out on Yellow Point Road, through farmland and forested valleys, toward the Barton & Leier Gallery (250-722-7140; 3140 Decourcy Dr; admission free; 11am-5pm Thu-Sun Apr-Nov), a quirky menagerie of artworks created from garage-sale finds.

If you need sustenance after that, drop by the area’s Crow & Gate (250-722-3731; 2313 Yellow Point Rd; mains $8-12), a British-style pub with Guinness, meat pies and a relaxing garden for summertime quaffing.


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NANAIMO

pop 79,000

Maligned for years as Vancouver Island’s grubby second city, Nanaimo will never have the allure of tourist-friendly Victoria. But the вЂ˜Harbour City’ has undergone its own quiet renaissance since the 1990s, with the downtown emergence of some good hangout coffee shops, worthwhile indie stores and a smattering of great restaurants – having a scoff at the famed but ultrarich вЂ˜Nanaimo bars’ doesn’t have to be your only dining option here. With its own ferry service from the mainland, the city is a handy hub for exploring up-island.

Orientation & Information

Behind the inner harbor, the city center’s main shops line Commercial St and Terminal Ave, while the attractive but small Old City Quarter resides up the hill and is bordered by Fitzwilliam, Selby and Wesley Sts.

Nicol St leads south to Hwy 1 and the Duke Point ferry terminal. Heading north, Terminal Ave forks: the right fork becomes Stewart Ave (Hwy 1), leading to the Departure Bay ferry terminal, while the left fork becomes Hwy 19A (Island Hwy) and is the main up-island route.



Downtown Information Centre (250-754-8141; www.nanaimodowntown.com; 150 Commercial St; 8:30am-4:30pm Mon-Fri, 11am-3pm Sat) Centrally located.

Literacy Nanaimo Bookstore (250-754-8988; 19 Commercial St; per hr $1; 9am-5pm Mon-Sat) Cost-effective internet access.

Nanaimo Maps & Charts (250-754-2513; 8 Church St; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat) Bookstore with good maps and travel guides.

Nanaimo Regional General Hospital (250-754-2121; 1200 Dufferin Cres)

Post Office (250-267-1177; Harbour Park Mall; 8:30am-5pm Mon-Fri)



Sights & Activities

The windswept waterfront Piper’s Lagoon Park (3600 Place Rd) is one of Nanaimo’s undoubted outdoor highlights. Bring a picnic and check out the birds hanging around the lagoon, take a short hike through the gnarly Garry oak forest or give the climbing wall your best shot. Then head over to Shack Island – you can walk at low tide, but keep an eye on the water level or you might need a boat to get back. It houses a straggle of storied old fishermen’s sheds kept as unserviced cottages for those lugging their own sleeping bags.

Newcastle Island Marine Provincial Park (250-754-7893; www.bcparks.ca), offering picnicking, cycling, hiking and beaches, is a rustic idyll well worth an afternoon of anyone’s time. Walks or hikes range from 1km strolls to a 7.5km perimeter trek. Access is via a 10-minute ferry (250-708-0201, 877-297-8526; www.nanaimoharbourferry.com; adult/child $8/4; Apr–mid-Oct) from the inner harbor.

Overlooking downtown, the colorful Nanaimo District Museum (250-753-1821; www.nanaimomuseum.ca; 100 Cameron Rd; adult/youth/child $2/1.75/0.75; 10am-5pm mid-May–Aug, 10am-5pm Tue-Sat Sep–mid-May) explores the growth of the city, from its First Nations heritage to its Hudson’s Bay Company days. There are regular temporary exhibitions to keep the line-up fresh. A swanky new museum building in the city center was scheduled to open soon after our visit.

The Bastion (250-753-1821; cnr Front & Bastion Sts; adult/child $1/free; 10am-4pm Jun–Aug) was built by the Hudson’s Bay Company in 1853. This landmark fortified tower only fired occasional cannons to simmer down regional ruckuses. A brief but charming summer ceremony sees one of the cannons fired for tourists at noon – the polystyrene вЂ˜cannonball’ can still shake a few ribs.

Wild Play Element Parks (250-716-7874, 888-668-7874; www.wildplayparks.com; 35 Nanaimo River Rd; adult/youth/child $39/29/19; 10am-6pm Fri-Mon Mar–mid-Jun, 10am-6pm daily mid-Jun–Aug, 10am-6pm Fri-Mon Sep & Oct), a former bungee-jumping site, has reinvented itself with five obstacle courses strung between the trees. Once you’re harnessed, you can hit ziplines, rope bridges, tunnels and Tarzan swings, each aimed at different ability levels.

For scuba fans, the coastline off Nanaimo offers some great dives and the folk at Ocean Explorers Diving (250-753-2055, 800-233-4145; www.oceanexplorersdiving.com; 1690 Stewart Ave; dive excursions from $60) can help you get there. Popular excursions include the sunk-to-order HMCS Saskatchewan and the 134m Cape Breton, the world’s second-largest diver-prepared reef.

Sleeping

Painted Turtle Guesthouse (250-753-4432, 866-309-4432; www.paintedturtle.ca; 121 Bastion St; dm $24, r $45-70; wi-fi) This exemplary budget property in the heart of downtown combines four-bed dorms with family and private rooms. Hardwood floors and IKEAesque furnishings abound while facilities range from a large and welcoming kitchen to a laundry room and en-suite showers. You can book a wide range of local activities through the front desk.





Buccaneer Inn (250-753-1246, 877-282-6337; www.buccaneerinn.com; 1577 Stewart Ave; s/d/ste $70/90/160; wi-fi) Handy for the Departure Bay ferry terminal, this family-run motel has an immaculate white paint-job. The neat and tidy approach is carried over into the maritime-themed rooms, many with kitchenettes. Splurge on a spacious suite and you’ll have a fireplace, full kitchen and flat-screen TV.

Kennedy House B&B (250-754-3389; kennedyhouse@shaw.ca; 305 Kennedy St; r $85-125) One of the few Nanaimo B&Bs within walking distance of downtown, this restored 1913 heritage mansion is elegant, quiet and adult-oriented. It has two lovely rooms, combining antique and contemporary chintzy flourishes. The owners serve a good cooked breakfast – omelets are a house specialty.

Dorchester Hotel (250-754-6835, 800-661-2449; www.dorchesternanaimo.com; 70 Church St; r $109-160; wi-fi) Downtown’s signature hotel has an unbeatable location overlooking the harbor. It’s been refurbished in recent years – hence the new loungey look to the old rooms – but the hallways running at odd angles couldn’t be changed, nor could its historic character: it’s still got its Victorian moldings and sitting rooms on the southwest corners of each floor.

Inn on Long Lake (250-758-1144, 800-565-1144; www.innonlonglake.com; 4700 N Island Hwy; r/ste $159/219; wi-fi) A 10-minute drive north of the Departure Bay ferry terminal, this lakeside retreat offers a change of pace if you’ve been roughing it around the island. The large rooms, each with a balcony, have plenty of amenities and some have kitchenettes. It has a sauna, a fitness center and lake-bound canoes to keep you occupied, along with free continental breakfast.

Eating

Pirate Chips (250-753-2447; 1 Commercial St; mains $4-7.50; 11:30am-10pm Mon-Wed, 11:30am-midnight Thu, 11:30am-3am Fri & Sat, noon-9pm Sun) Locals originally came here for the best fries in town – the curry topping is recommended – but they keep coming back for the funky ambiance and quirky pirate-themed decor. It’s an excellent late-night hangout: you can even indulge in poutine and deep-fried chocolate bars here – although preferably not together.

Mrs Riches Dinner Club Café (250-753-8311; 199 Fraser St; mains $5-11; 11:30am-8pm Sun-Fri) Like stepping into a comic book about a carnival, this family-oriented spot is lined with an eclectic array of memorabilia (think giant stuffed toys and car fenders). The food is the main attraction, though. Heaping burger platters are hard to beat – tackle the Mountain Burger, if you dare – and the pasta dishes and milkshakes are hearty and lip-smacking.

Tina’s Diner (250-753-5333; 187 Commercial St; mains $6-9; 8am-3pm Wed-Fri, 8am-2pm Sat, 9am-2pm Sun & Mon) This chatty 1950s-style eatery serves up Nanaimo’s best breakfast. The menu runs from eggs Benedict to breakfast wraps and there are plenty of burgers, sandwiches and salads for those who can’t roll out of bed before noon. Drop by on Saturday and Sunday for live lunchtime music.

Penny’s Palapa (250-753-2150; 10 Wharf St H Dock; mains $7-12; 11am-9pm mid-Apr–Oct) A floating, flower-decked hut and patio bobbing among the boats in the harbor, this seasonal gem is well worth a look. Its inventive, well-priced menu of Mexican delights includes seafood specials – the signature halibut tacos are recommended – and some spicy vegetarian options.

Troller’s Fish & Chips (250-741-7994; 104 Front St; mains $8-13; 11am-10pm) A local legend, this long-established Nanaimo fish and chipery still delivers. There’s always a fresh catch of the day on offer – often salmon or prawns straight from the boats in the harbor. Occupying a dockside shack with good waterfront views, it’s an ideal spot to watch the maritime world float by.

Modern CafГ© (250-754-5022; 221 Commercial St; mains $9-19; 9am-11pm) A reinvented old coffee shop combining exposed-brick interiors and comfy booths. The patio is a magnet on languid sunny days. The menu rests on the kind of wraps, burgers and sandwiches that are a cut above standard diner fare and there are some tempting small-plate options for those who want to snack or share.

Wesley Street Restaurant (250-753-6057; 321 Wesley St; mains $15-29; 11:30am-2:30pm & 5:30-10pm Tue-Sat) Like a transplant from Victoria, this long-overdue west coast specialty restaurant combines a bright, art-lined dining room with the kind of delectable menu sophisticated Nanaimoites have been craving for years. The locally sourced ingredients mean ever-changing specials but the favorite on our visit was Pacific halibut with Dungeness crab potato salad.



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FASTEST BATH IN THE WEST

First run in 1967 to mark the city’s centennial, Nanaimo’s International World Championship Bathtub Race (250-753-7223; www.bathtubbing.com) is now the region’s biggest summer draw. In late July, the four days of marine-themed shenanigans include a street fair, a parade and a giant fireworks extravaganza, but the main event remains the big race where hundreds of salty sea dogs jump into customized bath-sized crafts and embark on a grueling 58km course. Whizzing around Entrance Island and Winchelsea Island, they finish – if they make it – at Departure Bay. Speedboat engines are de rigueur for the 90-minute sprint, with thousands of spectators lining the bay for the spectacular finish. A dip in the tub will never seem the same again.





* * *



Drinking & Entertainment

While the downtown core isn’t exactly a hive of nighttime activity, Nanaimo’s Old City Station Pub (250-716-0030; 150 Skinner St) is nevertheless a convivial and well-located spot for a beer or three. The impressive roster focuses on a significant proportion of Canadian tipples, including brews from Alexander Keith’s and Granville Island Brewing. The menu is also recommended and is a cut above standard pub grub.

If you’re more inclined to test your sea legs, catch the ferry (250-753-8244; round trip $4; 11am-midnight mid-May–Sep, 11am-11pm Oct–mid-May) from the harbor to the aptly-named Dinghy Dock Floating Pub (250-753-2373; 8 Pirates Lane), which bobs offshore near Protection Island. A good place to rub shoulders with salty locals, there’s live music on weekends and a menu of standard pub classics.

The city’s best live music and dance spot, the Queen’s Hotel (250-754-6751; www.thequeens.ca; 34 Victoria Cres) hosts an eclectic roster of live performances and club nights, ranging from indie to jazz and country. In contrast, the Port Theatre (250-754-8550; www.porttheatre.nisa.com; 125 Front St) presents local and touring live-theater shows.

Nanaimo’s favorite local movie house is the 10-screen Avalon Cinema Centre (250-390-5021; Woodgrove Centre, 6631 N Island Hwy; tickets $7.95).

Getting There & Away

AIR

Nanaimo Airport (250-245-2147; www.nanaimoairport.com) is 18km south of town via Hwy 1. Air Canada Jazz (514-393-3333, 888-247-2262; www.aircanada.com) flights arrive here from Vancouver (from $91, 25 minutes, up to seven times a day).

Frequent West Coast Air (604-606-6888, 800-347-2222; www.westcoastair.com) floatplane services arrive at the inner harbor’s Seaplane Terminal from downtown Vancouver ($67.50, 25 minutes) and Vancouver International Airport ($55, 20 minutes), while similar services (at almost identical prices) are provided by Harbour Air Seaplanes (604-274-1277, 800-665-0212; www.harbour-air.com).

BOAT

BC Ferries (250-386-3431, 888-223-3779; www.bcfer ries.com) from Tsawwassen (passenger/vehicle $10.55/$35, two hours) arrive at Duke Point, 14km south of Nanaimo. Services from West Vancouver’s Horseshoe Bay (passenger/vehicle $10.55/$35, 95 minutes) arrive at Departure Bay, 3km north of the city center via Hwy 1.

BUS

Greyhound Canada (800-661-8747; www.greyhound.ca) buses arrive from Victoria ($18.75, 2ВЅ hours, six daily), Campbell River ($24.95, three hours, three daily), Port Alberni ($16.65, 90 minutes, three daily) and Tofino ($35.85, 3ВЅ hours, twice a day).

TRAIN

The daily VIA Rail (888-842-7245; www.viarail.com) Malahat train arrives from Victoria ($26.50, 2ВЅ hours), Parksville ($16, 35 minutes) and Courtenay ($26.50, two hours), among other stops.

Getting Around

Downtown Nanaimo around the harbor is highly walkable, but after that the city spreads out and a car or strong bike legs are required. Be aware that taxis are expensive here.

Nanaimo Regional Transit (250-390-4531; www.rdn.bc.ca; one trip/day pass $2.25/5.75) buses stop along Gordon St, west of Harbour Park Mall. Bus 2 goes to the Departure Bay ferry terminal. No city buses run to Duke Point.

Nanaimo Seaporter (250-753-2118; from Departure Bay/Duke Point $8/16) provides door-to-door service to downtown from both ferry terminals.

For cabs, call AC Taxi (250-753-1231).


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OCEANSIDE & AROUND

Centered on the family-friendly seaside towns of Parksville and Qualicum Beach, plus the area around Coombs, Oceanside (250-248-6300, 888-799-3222; www.oceansidetourism.com) is on the island’s eastern stretch above Nanaimo. It’s a popular, low-key hangout for mainlanders, especially those traveling with children.

Sights & Activities

Coombs Old Country Market (250-248-6272; www.oldcountrymarket.com; 2326 Alberni Hwy, Coombs; 9am-6pm) is a rustic nest of galleries, boutiques and trinket emporiums centered on a large food store stuffed with the kind of bakery and produce treats that will have you planning an impromptu picnic. Most visitors spend time pointing at the sky here in summer: a herd of goats lives on the roof of the main building.

World Parrot Refuge (250-248-5194; www.world parrotrefuge.org; 2116 Alberni Hwy, Coombs; adult/child $12/8; 10am-4pm) rescues exotic birds from captivity and nurses them back to health. This excellent educational facility preaches the mantra that parrots are not pets. Pick up your earplugs at reception and stroll among the enclosures, each alive with recovering (and very noisy) birds. Don’t be surprised when some screech a chirpy вЂ˜hello’ as you stroll by.

Spreading the word on BC’s unique wildlife, North Island Wildlife Recovery Centre (250-248-8534; www.niwra.org; 1240 Leffler Rd, Errington; adult/child $3/2; 9am-5pm mid-Mar–Oct) is a fascinating вЂ˜museum of nature,’ a short drive from Parksville. It has an excellent walk-through display on west coast animals and their habitats. Dedicated to treating sick or injured animals brought to its doors, the facility also has active rehabilitation programs for eagles and black bear.

Horne Lake Caves Provincial Park (250-248-7829; www.hornelake.com; tours adult/child from $17/15; 10am-5pm Jul & Aug, off-season by arrangement) is a 45-minute drive from Parksville (take Hwy 19 towards Courtenay, then exit 75 and proceed for 12 km on the gravel road) but it’s worth it for BC’s best spelunking spot. Two caves are open to the public for self-exploring, or you can take a guided tour of the spectacular Riverbend Cave – look out for the вЂ˜howling wolf’ and вЂ˜smiling Buddha’ formations.

Sleeping & Eating

Riverbend Resort & Campground (250-248-3134, 800-701-3033; www.riverbendresort.bc.ca; 1-924 E Island Hwy, Parksville; campsite/cabin/yurt $20/129/129; wi-fi) A lovely, laid-back family-friendly campground nestled among the trees, it has some cozy wooden cabins for those traveling sans tent. Even better are the three circular yurts, complete with baths, kitchens, double beds and flat-screen TVs. The rest of the campground has showers, laundry and a playground.

Free Spirit Spheres (250-757-9445; www.freespiritspheres.com; 420 Horne Lake Rd, Qualicum Bay; cabin $100-$150) Suspended by cables high in the forest canopy, these two circular tree-houses – called Eryn and Eve – are reached via spiral wooden staircases. Like sleeping in a small boat cabin, the cozy, wood-lined interiors include cupboards, water coolers and the larger of the two (Eryn) has a microwave oven. There’s a ground-level outhouse plus a full bathroom in the nearby house.

Blue Willow Guest House (250-752-9052; www.bluewillowguesthouse.ca; 524 Quatna Rd, Qualicum Beach; s/d/ste $105/115/125) A surprisingly spacious Victorian-style cottage, this lovely B&B has a book-lined lounge, exposed beams and a fragrant country garden. The two rooms and one self-contained suite are lined with antiques and each is extremely homely. The attention to detail carries over to gourmet breakfast: served in the conservatory, it’s accompanied by finger-licking home-baked treats.

Tigh-Na-Mara Resort (250-248-2072, 800-663-7373; www.tigh-na-mara.com; 1155 Resort Dr, Parksville; r from $149; ) This visitors’ favorite is nestled amid verdant forest and a lovely stretch of beach. Lodge rooms, cottages and condos are available, each with a rustic-chic ambiance. The Cedar Room restaurant is recommended even if you’re not staying here and the spa – complete with a cave-like grotto – is one of the island’s biggest.

Fish Tales Café (250-752-6053; 3336 W Island Hwy, Qualicum Beach; mains $9-16; 5-10pm) This Qualicum fixture has the look of an old-school English teashop but it’s been reeling in visitors with its perfect fish and chips for years. It’s worth exploring the non–deep-fried dishes – the two-person platter of scallops, shrimp, smoked salmon and mussels is recommended – and, if you arrive early enough, you can grab a table in the garden.

Shady Rest (752-9111; 3109 W Island Hwy, Qualicum Beach; 8am-10pm) A laid-back neighborhood bar perched over the shell-strewn beach on the area’s main drag, this casual hangout is popular with locals and visitors. Drop by for some fortifying pub grub and a couple of beers or head into the slightly more upscale restaurant where fish, steak and pasta dishes jostle for menu attention. A hearty weekend brunch is also available.

Getting There & Away

Greyhound Canada (800-661-8747; www.greyhound.ca) services arrive in Parksville from Victoria ($24.95, 3ВЅ hours, five daily), Nanaimo ($5.80, 40 minutes, six daily), Tofino ($28.05, three hours, twice daily) and Campbell River ($17.90, two hours, three daily). The same buses, with similar times and rates, serve Qualicum Beach.

The daily VIA Rail (888-842-7245; www.viarail.com) Malahat train arrives in Parksville from Victoria ($33, three hours), Nanaimo ($16, 35 minutes) and Courtenay ($19, 70 minutes), among others. The same train, with similar times and rates, also serves Qualicum Beach.


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PORT ALBERNI

pop 18,700

Although its key fishing and forestry sectors have been declining for decades, Alberni – located at the head of Vancouver Island’s longest inlet – was initially slow to develop itself as a tourist destination. But the double whammy of aboriginal and pioneer heritage plus easy access to some truly outstanding natural wilderness makes this an ideal spot for an off-the-beaten-path visit. For more information, check in with the Alberni Valley Visitor Centre (250-724-6535; www.avcoc.com; 2533 Redford St; 8am-6pm mid-May–Aug, 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat & Sun Sep–mid-May).

Sights & Activities

Between Parksville and Port Alberni, the spiritual home of tree huggers, Cathedral Grove (250-248-9460) is a mystical highlight of MacMillan Provincial Park. Often overrun with summer visitors – try not to knock them down as they scamper across the highway in front of you – its accessible forest trails wind through a dense canopy of vegetation, offering glimpses of some of BC’s oldest trees, including centuries-old Douglas firs more than 3m in diameter. Try hugging that.

Built on an eclectic array of aboriginal and pioneer-era exhibits – including displays on the Chinese immigrants who came here in the 19th century – Alberni Valley Museum (250-723-2181; www.alberniheritage.com; 4255 Wallace St; by donation; 10am-5pm Tue-Sat, to 8pm Thu) is a super little local museum. The fascinating section on the West Coast Trail shows how the route was once a life-saving trail for shipwreck victims who ran aground offshore here – an area once dubbed the вЂ˜Graveyard of the Pacific.’

Lady Rose Marine Services (250-723-8313, 800-663-7192; www.ladyrosemarine.com; 5425 Argyle St; return trip $40-64; departs 8am Tue, Thu & Sat) is the best way to encounter the waters of Barkley Sound. Two traditional packet boats – the MV Lady Rose and MV Frances Barkley – depart from Alberni’s Argyle Pier. The vessels stop en route to deliver mail and supplies and the trip is an enjoyably scenic day excursion, plus a practical means of returning from the West Coast Trail’s north end at Bamfield.

A one-stop shop for active types, Batstar Adventure Tours (250-724-2050, 877-449-1230; www.batstar.com; 4785 Beaver Creek Rd) arranges everything from guided bike trips into the wilderness to multiday kayak odysseys around the Broken Group Islands. If time is an issue, take the half-day kayak harbor tour ($59) or 20km streams-and-forest bike ride along a disused railway line ($79).

Choo Kwa Ventures (250-724-4006, 866-294-8687; www.chookwa.com; 4550 Victoria Quay; tours adult/child from $35/17) offers the oppertunity to dip into the area’s deep aboriginal cultural heritage on an authentic three-hour canoe trip down the Somass River. You can help paddle if you want or just sit back and listen to the ancient stories and songs from the local Hupacasath people. If you’re lucky, you might spot a bear or two hungrily eyeing you from the riverbank.

Sleeping & Eating

Fat Salmon Backpackers (250-723-6924; www.fatsalmonbackpackers.com; 3250 Third Ave; dm $21-25; Apr-Sep; wi-fi) Driven by its energetic, ultrawelcoming owners, this funky and eclectic backpacker joint offers four to eight-bed dorms, with names like вЂ˜Knickerbocker’ and вЂ˜Mullet Room.’ There are lots of books to read, free hot drinks and a kitchen bristling with utensils. Make sure you say вЂ˜hi’ to Lily, the friendly house dog.

Alpine Springs Farm & B&B (250-724-6841; info@alpinesprinsgfarm.ca; 6860 Desmond Rd; d $85) You’re guaranteed a friendly welcome at this small hobby farm on the edge of town, improbably surrounded by a garden landscaped with fragrant flowers and little waterfalls. The farm’s main products are organic veggies and Rainbow trout. The breakfasts are correspondingly wholesome and the two rooms have a charming, rustic feel.

Hummingbird Guesthouse (250-720-2111, 888-720-2114; hummingbirdguesthouse.com; 5769 River Rd; ste $125-160; wi-fi) With four large suites and a giant deck (complete with hot tub), this modern B&B has a home-away-from-home feel. There’s a shared kitchen on each of the two floors but the substantial cooked breakfast should keep you full for hours. Each suite has satellite TV, one has its own sauna and there’s a teen-friendly games room out back.

Blue Door Café (250-723-8811; 5415 Argyle St; mains $4-9; 6:30am-8:30pm) Drawing an early-morning crowd of java-craving Albernians, this nookish hole-in-the-wall is a traditional home-style spot. Don’t bother asking for a muesli breakfast here: this place is all about thick pancakes, steak ’n’ eggs and coffee that would wake a hibernating grizzly. If you come back for lunch, you’ll be on the burger or soup-and-sandwich diet.

Clam Bucket (250-723-1315; 4479 Victoria Quay; mains $7-12; 11am-9pm Mon-Thu, 11am-10pm Fri & Sat, 11am-8pm Sun) Justifiably renowned for its fresh-catch seafood – try the Cajun-style blackened oysters – the Clam Bucket also serves unlikely treats like Japanese wings and heaping gourmet burgers. Its funky orange-and-blue interior provides a casual atmosphere indoors, or you can head to the patio for a side dish of panoramic inlet views.

Getting There & Away

Greyhound Canada (800-661-8747; www.greyhound.ca) buses arrive here from Victoria ($36, 4ВЅ hours, three daily), Nanaimo ($16.65, 90 minutes, three daily), Tofino ($21.70, two hours, two daily) and Parksville ($8.95, 50 minutes, three daily).


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PACIFIC RIM NATIONAL PARK RESERVE

A wave-crashing waterfront and brooding, mist-covered trees ensure that the Pacific Rim National Park Reserve (250-726-7721; www.pc.gc.ca/pacificrim; park fee adult/child $6.90/3.45) is among BC’s most popular outdoor attractions. The 50,000-hectare park comprises the northern Long Beach Unit, between Tofino and Ucluelet; the Broken Group Islands in Barkley Sound; and, to the south, the ever-popular West Coast Trail.

First-timers should drop by the Pacific Rim Visitor Centre (250-726-4600; www.pacificrimvisitor.ca; 2791 Pacific Rim Hwy; 9am-5pm mid-Mar–Jun & Sep, 9am-7pm Jul & Aug, 10am-4pm Thu-Sun Oct–mid-Mar) for maps and advice on exploring this spectacular region.

Long Beach Unit

Attracting the lion’s share of visitors, Long Beach Unit is easily accessible by car along the Pacific Rim Hwy. Wide sandy beaches, untamed surf, lots of beachcombing nooks and a living museum of old-growth rainforest are the main reasons for the summer tourist clamor.

Named after a chief of the local Nuu-chah-nulth tribe, drop by the Wickaninnish Interpretive Centre (9am-6pm mid-Mar–mid-Oct) for intriguing exhibits on regional natural history and aboriginal culture.

If you’re inspired to take a stroll, try one of the following trails, keeping your eyes peeled for swooping bald eagles and shockingly large banana slugs. Safety precautions apply on all trails in the region: tread carefully over slippery surfaces and never turn your back on the mischievous surf.



Long Beach Great scenery along the sandy shore (easy).

Rainforest Trail Two interpretive loops through old-growth forest (1km; moderate).

Schooner Trail Through old and second-growth forests with beach access (1km; moderate).

Shorepine Bog Loops around a moss-layered bog (800m; easy and wheelchair-accessible).

South Beach Through forest to a pebble beach (800m; easy to moderate).

Spruce Fringe Trail Loop trail featuring hardy Sitka spruce (1.5km; moderate).

Wickaninnish Trail Shoreline and forest trail (2.5km; easy to moderate).



SLEEPING & EATING

Between Ucluelet and Tofino on the Pacific Rim Hwy, Green Point Campground (250-689-9025, 877-737-3783; www.pccamping.ca; campsites $20.80; mid-Mar–mid-Oct) encourages lots of novice campers to try their first night under the stars. Extremely popular in summer (book ahead), its 105 tent sites are located on a forested terrace, with trail access to the beach. Expect fairly basic facilities: the faucets are cold but the toilets are flush.

You can make up for roughing it with a rewarding meal in the Interpretive Centre at the Wickaninnish Restaurant (250-726-7706; mains $10-22; 11:30am-10pm), where the crashing surf views are served with fresh-catch local seafood. If you’re just passing through, drop by their Beachfront Café (snacks $3-5; 9am-6pm; Mar-Sep) for a snack or an ice-cold Wickaccino.

GETTING THERE & AROUND

The Tofino Bus (250-725-2871, 866-986-3466; www.tofinobus.com) вЂ˜Beach Bus’ service runs between the Tofino Info Centre and Ucluelet lighthouse up to four times daily (one way adult/child $10/5), with stops at Long Beach, Green Point Campground and the Wickaninnish Centre.

Broken Group Islands Unit

Comprising some 300 islands and rocks scattered across 80 sq km around the entrance to Barkley Sound, the Broken Group is a serene natural wilderness beloved of visiting kayakers – especially those who enjoy close-up views of gray whales, harbor porpoises and multitudinous birdlife. Compasses are required for navigating here, unless you fancy paddling to Hawaii.

If you’re up for a trek, Lady Rose Marine Services (250-723-8313, 800-663-7192; www.ladyrosemarine.com) can ship you and your kayak to Sechart Whaling Station Lodge. From there, popular paddle-to points include the recommended Gibraltar Island, a one-hour kayak away. It has a sheltered campground and many explorable beaches. Willis Island (90 minutes from Sechart) is also popular. It has a campground and, at low tide, you can stroll to some of the nearby islands.

Camping costs $9 per night, payable at Sechart. Staff patrols the region to keep an eye on things and collect additional fees if you decide to stay longer.

If your own kayak didn’t fit in your backpack, you can rent one at Sechart Whaling Station Lodge (from $35 to $50 per day). Alternatively, Broken Island Adventures (250-728-3500, 888-728-6200; www.brokenislandadventures.com) rents kayaks and also runs popular three-hour powerboat tours (adult/child $72/26) around the region.

Lady Rose Marine Services runs boats three to six times per week to Sechart ($32, three hours) and Bamfield ($29, 2ВЅ hours) from mid-June to mid-September. In addition, the company operates a regional water taxi service for passengers and kayaks (from $35).

West Coast Trail Unit

Slowly recovering from a devastating late-2006 storm – repeat hikers will notice the missing trees from large sections – the legendary 75km West Coast Trail was first completed in 1907 and is one of Canada’s best-known and toughest hiking routes. There are two things you need to know before tackling this rite of passage: it will hurt and you’ll want to do it again.

Winding between the West Coast Trail information centers at Pachena Bay (250-728-3234; 9am-5pm May-Sep), near Bamfield on the north end, and Gordon River (250-647-5434; 9am-5pm May-Sep), near Port Renfrew to the south, most trekkers take between five and eight days to complete the full route. Since the southern section is more difficult, many hikers prefer to ease themselves in from the northern end.

The trail is only accessible from May to September and there is a limit of 26 overnight backpackers starting from each end each day. All overnighters must pay a trail user fee ($130) and a fee ($30) to cover the two ferry crossings you’ll encounter en route. Reservations (250-387-1642, 800-663-6000; fee $25) are highly recommended and can be made from March 1 each year.

Some permits are kept back for a daily wait-list system: five of each day’s 26 available spaces are set aside at 1pm to be used on a first-come, first-served basis at each end of the trail. If you win this lottery, you can begin hiking that day – but you could be waiting for several days before you get lucky.

It’s not aimed at novices: you must be able to handle rough terrain, rock-face ladders, stream crossings and adverse weather to tackle this trail. Be prepared to read tide tables, treat or boil all water, and cook – you’ll need to bring all your own food – on a lightweight backpacker’s stove. Hikers can camp at any of the designated sites along the route, most of which have solar-composting outhouses.

If you don’t want to go the whole hog, it’s possible to do a day hike or hike half the trail from Pachena Bay, which is considered the easier end of the route. Overnight hikers who only tackle this end of the trail can leave from Nitinat Lake. Day hikers are allowed on the trail from each end, but need a free day-use permit, available from the registration centers.

West Coast Trail Express (250-477-8700, 888-999-2288; www.trailbus.com) runs a daily shuttle between May and September to Panchena Bay from Victoria ($65, six hours), Nanaimo ($65, four hours) and Port Alberni ($45, 2ВЅ hours). It also runs a service to Gordon River from Victoria ($45, 2ВЅ hours), Bamfield ($60, 3ВЅ hours) and Panchena Bay ($60, three hours).


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TOFINO & AROUND

Transforming rapidly in recent years from a sleepy hippy hangout into a soft-eco destination town complete with high-end resorts (it’s like the Whistler of Vancouver Island), Tofino is the region’s most popular outdoor hangout. It’s not surprising that surf fans and other visitors keep coming: packed with activities and blessed with stunning beaches, Tofino sits on Clayoquot (clay-kwot) Sound, where forested mounds rise from roiling waves that batter the coastline in a dramatic ongoing spectacle. A short drive south of town, the Visitor Centre (250-725-3414; www.tourismtofino.com; 1426 Pacific Rim Hwy; 10am-6pm May-Sep) has detailed information on area accommodations, hiking trails and hot surf spots.

Sights

Check out what coastal temperate rainforests are all about by exploring the flora and fauna at the Tofino Botanical Gardens (250-725-1220; www.tbgf.org; 1084 Pacific Rim Hwy; 3-day admission adult/youth/child $10/6/free; 9am-dusk), complete with a frog pond, forest boardwalk, native plants and an ongoing program of workshops and field trips. There’s a $1 discount for car-free arrivals.

If you want to learn more about Clayoquot Sound’s complex ecosystems, drop by the Raincoast Interpretive Centre (250-725-2560; www.tofinores.com; 451 Main St; noon-5pm Wed-Sun mid-May–Sep) with its interactive displays and knowledgeable staff – they can make your visit to the region an eye-opening education. Admission and programs are free but donations are appreciated and you can also support the work here by buying a couple of their excellent trail guides.

Hot Springs Cove is the highlight of Maquinna Marine Provincial Park (250-474-1336; www.bcparks.ca), one of the most popular day trips from Tofino. Tranquility-minded trekkers travel here by Zodiac boat or seaplane, watching for whales and other sea critters en route. From the boat landing, 2km of boardwalks lead to a series of natural hot pools.

Visible through the mist and accessible via kayak or tour boat from the Tofino waterfront, Meares Island is home to the Big Tree Trail, a 400m boardwalk through old-growth forest that includes a stunning 1500-year-old red cedar. The island was the site of the key 1984 Clayoquot Sound anti-logging protest that kicked off the region’s latter-day environmental movement.

Situated on remote Flores Island and accessed by tour boat or kayak, Ahousat is the mystical location of the spectacular Wild Side Heritage Trail, a moderately difficult path that traverses 10km of forests, beaches and headlands between Ahousat and Cow Bay. There’s a natural warm spring on the island and it’s also home to a First Nations band. A popular destination for kayakers, camping of the no-facilities variety is allowed here.

Activities

SURFING

Tofino’s original surf shop, Live to Surf (250-725-4464; www.livetosurf.com; 1180 Pacific Rim Hwy; board rental 24hr $25), also supplies skates and skimboards. Pacific Surf School (250-725-2155, 888-777-9961; www.pacificsurfschool.com; 440 Campbell St; board rental 4hr/24hr $15/20) offers rentals, camps and lessons for beginners. The surf school Surf Sister (250-725-4456, 877-724-7873; www.surfsister.com; 625 Campbell St) offers introductory lessons (from $65) to boys and girls plus women-only multiday courses (from $175).

KAYAKING

Rainforest Kayak Adventures (250-725-3117, 877-422-9453; www.rainforestkayak.com; 316 Main St; multiday courses & tours from $699) specializes in four-to-six-day guided tours and courses. Remote Passages (250-725-3330, 800-666-9833; www.remotepassages.com; Wharf St; tours from $59) gives short guided kayaking tours around Clayoquot Sound and the islands. Tofino Sea Kayaking Co (250-725-4222, 800-863-4664; www.tofino-kayaking.com; 320 Main St; tours 2hr/4hr/6hr $54/68/90) offers short guided paddles, including a popular four-hour Meares Island trip.

Tours



Adventures Pacific (250-725-2811, 888-486-3467; www.advernturespacific.com; 120 Fourth St; adult/child $69/49) Whale-watching, wildlife and hot springs boat tours.

Clayoquot Connections (250-726-8789; from $25) Good-value tours on an old open-deck lifeboat, including sunset, fishing and Meares Island treks.

Jamie’s Whaling Station (250-725-3919, 800-667-9913; www.jamies.com; 606 Campbell St; adult/child $79/50) Whale, bear and sea-lion spotting tours.

Tla-ook Cultural Adventures (250-725-2656, 877-942-2663; www.tlaook.com; tours 2hr/4hr/6hr $44/64/140) Learn about aboriginal culture by paddling an authentic dugout canoe.

Tofino Air (250-725-4454, 866-486-3247; www.tofinoair.ca) Offers 20-minute scenic floatplane tours (minimum three people, $79 each) over breathtaking Clayoquot Sound.

Ocean Outfitters (250-725-2866, 877-906-2326; www.oceanoutfitters.bc.ca; 421 Main St; adult/child $79/65) Popular whale-watching tours, with bear and hot springs treks also offered.





Sleeping

Clayoquot Field Station (250-725-1220; www.tfbg.com; 1084 Pacific Rim Hwy; dm/d $32/120; wi-fi) In the grounds of the Botanical Gardens, this immaculate wood-built education center has a selection of four-bed dorm rooms, a large kitchen and an on-site laundry. There’s also a tranquil en-suite private room, where the surrounding forest brushes the window. A great sleepover for nature-lovers, it has a natural history library and regular speakers and events.

Dolphin Motel (250-725-3377; www.dolphinmo tel.ca; 1190 Pacific Rim Hwy; r $95-139) A single-level motel with a family-friendly ambiance, the old-school Blue Dolphin’s rooms include fridges that double as bedside tables. A short walk from Chesterman Beach, it has a barbecue area with picnic tables and a couple of self-catering units with full kitchens.

Tofino Inlet Cottages (250-725-3441, 866-725-3411; www.tofinoinletcottages.com; 350 Olsen Rd; d $100-175) A five-unit clutch of old A-frame buildings on a quiet stretch of waterfront overlooking Meares Island, these vacation cottages are like sleeping in a wood-lined boat cabin. The interiors are a little faded but all is neat and well maintained – plus your deck is an ideal spot for some beer-fueled sunset watching.

Gull Cottage (250-725-3177; www.gullcottagetofino.com; 1254 Lynn Rd; d $135-165) A short trail walk from Chesterman Beach, this fusion west coast and Victorian-style B&B is a cozy haven for storm watchers and a well-located base for summer explorers. It has three immaculate rooms each with a light, pinewood esthetic – we like the rainforest room with its large soaker tub. There’s also a book-lined TV room for guests and an outdoor hot tub among the trees.

InnChanter B&B (250-670-1149; www.innchanter.com; per person $120) For a sleepover with a maritime twist, don your nautical clobber and climb aboard this handsome heritage boat moored near Hot Springs Cove (access is via water taxi or floatplane), which has been restored and refitted to include five wood-lined sleeping cabins. You won’t be asked to walk the plank here but you may be required to scoff a tasty meal or two. Rates include breakfast, dinner and canoe use.

Pacific Sands Beach Resort (250-725-3322, 800-565-23224; www.pacificsands.com; 1421 Pacific Rim Hwy; r/villa from $220/450) The chic but nevertheless laid-back Pacific Sands has great lodge rooms but its stunning waterfront villas are even better. Great for groups, these huge timber-framed houses open directly onto the beach and include kitchens, stone fireplaces, slate and wood floors and ocean-view bedrooms with private decks. Built on pillars to preserve rainforest root systems, they also have energy-efficient heating systems.

Wickaninnish Inn 250-725-3100, 800-333-4604; www.wickinn.com; Chesterman Beach; r from $460) Cornering the market in luxury winter storm-watching packages, вЂ˜the Wick’ is a local landmark that’s worth a stay any time of year. Embodying nature with recycled old-growth furniture, natural stone tiles and the atmosphere of a place grown rather than constructed, the sumptuous guest rooms have push-button gas fireplaces, two-person hot tubs and private balconies. Pampering has rarely felt better.

Eating

Sobo (250-725-2341; 311 Neill Street; mains $6-10; 11am-9pm) This legendary purple dining truck at the entrance of the Botanical Gardens serves gourmet salads, hearty soups and polenta fries. But it’s the fish treats that draw the locals: the sizzling shrimp cakes are mouthwatering and the fish tacos are a staple of every diet within a 5km radius.

Schooner on Second (250-725-3444; 331 Campbell St; mains $12-28; 9am-10pm) This attractive white-tablecloth eatery has uncovered many new ways to prepare the region’s seafood bounty. The halibut stuffed with shrimp, brie and pine nuts is good but the Captain’s Plate for two is a recommended feast of salmon, halibut, oysters and possibly the best scallops you’ll ever eat. Head upstairs to the swish new lounge for cocktails and great views across the inlet.

Shelter (250-725-3353; 601 Campbell St; mains $27-39; 5-10pm) An exquisite west coast eatery with international accents. Our menu favorite here is the shrimp and crab dumplings. There’s a strong commitment to local, sustainable ingredients – the salmon is wild and the sablefish is trap-caught – and there are plenty of non-fishy options for traveling carnivores, including a delectable char-grilled pork chop dish.

Getting There & Around

Orca Airways (604-270-6722, 888-359-6722; www.flyorcaair.com) flights arrive at Tofino Airport (250-725-2006) from Vancouver International Airport’s South Terminal ($159, 55 minutes, one to three daily).

Now affiliated with Greyhound Canada (you can book via the www.greyhound.ca website), Tofino Bus (250-725-2871, 866-986-3466; www.tofinobus.com) runs an вЂ˜Express Service’ from Vancouver ($61 plus ferry, seven hours), Victoria ($65, 5ВЅ hours), Nanaimo ($38, four hours) and Port Alberni ($23, 2ВЅ hours). The route runs daily year-round and twice daily from mid-March to mid-November.

The company also operates a localized вЂ˜Tofino Transit’ service around the region ($2), plus a вЂ˜Beach Bus’ running between Tofino and Ucluelet (one way adult/child $10/5).


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UCLUELET

Long-regarded as Tofino’s ugly sister, Ucluelet (yew-klew-let) nevertheless shares the same scenery and the same activities, and is generally cheaper and more accessible. But that’s not to say that вЂ˜Ukee’ is sleepy. In fact, the town has expanded in recent years to cope with visitor demand, successfully avoiding some of the growing-pain pitfalls experienced by Tofino. For information, head to the Visitor Centre (250-726-4641; www.uclueletinfo.com; 100 Main St; 9am-5pm May-Sep).

Sights & Activities

The smashing 8.5km Wild Pacific Trail (www.wild pacifictrail.com) runs via untamed rainforest and coastline, with bonus views of the Broken Group Islands and Barkley Sound. Seabirds and whales are abundant here and it’s also a good area for storm-watching – don’t get too close to the surf when it’s really crashing. In contrast, the poke-worthy tide pools and kelp beds at Big Beach make it a great kid-friendly spot.

If you want to stretch your sea legs, Subtidal Adventures (250-726-7336, 877-444-1134; www.subtidaladventures.com; 1950 Peninsula Rd; adult/child from $49/39) has boat tours covering whales, sunsets and bear. And if you’re feeling active, Majestic Ocean Kayaking (250-726-2868, 800-889-7644; www.oceankayaking.com; 1167 Helen Rd; tours from $60) can lead you around the harbor or Barkley Sound on a kayak trek.

Alternatively, you can rent some wheels from Ukee Bikes (250-726-2453; 1599 Imperial Lane; 1hr/24hr $5/25) or learn to surf with Inner Rhythm Surf Camp (250-726-3456, 877-393-7873; www.innerrhythm.net; 1685 Peninsula Rd; 3hr lesson $79).

Sleeping & Eating

C&N Backpackers (250-726-7416, 888-434-6060; www.cnnbackpackers.com; 2081 Peninsula Rd; dm/r $25/65) They’re very protective of their hardwood floors here, so take your shoes off to enter this calm and well-maintained hostel. The dorms are mostly small and predictably basic, but private rooms are also available and there’s a spacious kitchen. The highlight is the landscaped, lounge-worthy garden overlooking the inlet, complete with hammocks and a rope swing.

Surf’s Inn Guesthouse & Backpackers Lodge (250-726-4426; www.surfsinn.ca; 1874 Peninsula Rd; dm/cabin $27/150; wi-fi) While this bright blue, hill-top converted family home contains some cozy dorm rooms and is high on the friendly approach, it’s the two-bedroomed self-contained cabin out back that attracts many. With a full kitchen and its own deck and barbecue, it sleeps up to seven.

Canadian Princess Resort (250-598-3366, 800-663-7090; www.canadianprincess.com; 1943 Peninsula Rd; r $89-285; Apr-Sep) You can choose from some tiny but cool staterooms on an old steam ship moored in Ucluelet Harbour or some much larger and more traditional hotel rooms in the lodge. Don your pirate eye-patch and stay on the boat, which handily also houses the resort’s bar and restaurant.

Ukee Dogs (250-726-2103; 1576 Imperial Lane; mains $4-6; 9am-5pm Mon-Sat) Focusing on home-baked treats and comfort foods, this bright and breezy good-value eatery offers hotdogs of the gourmet variety, made-from-scratch soups and topping-packed pizzas – the smoked garlic sausage is our favorite, unless you’re planning to kiss anyone. Drop by in the afternoon for coffee and sprinkle-topped cakes.

Getting There & Around

Now affiliated with Greyhound Canada (you can book via the www.greyhound.ca website), Tofino Bus (250-725-2871, 866-986-3466; www.tofino bus.com) runs an вЂ˜Express Service’ from Vancouver ($53 plus ferry, 6ВЅ hours), Victoria ($58, five hours), Nanaimo ($34, 3ВЅ hours) and Port Alberni ($19, two hours). The route runs daily year-round and twice daily from mid-March to mid-November.

The company also operates a localized вЂ˜Tofino Transit’ service around the region ($2), as well as a вЂ˜Beach Bus’ between Ucluelet and Tofino (one-way adult/child $10/5).


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DENMAN & HORNBY ISLANDS

Regarded as the main Northern Gulf Islands, Denman (www.denmanisland.com) and Hornby (www.hornbyisland.com) fuse laid-back attitudes, a similar artistic flair and a wealth of outdoor activities.

Denman has three provincial parks: Fillongley (250-474-1336; www.bcparks.ca), with easy hiking and beachcombing; Boyle Point (www.bcparks.ca), with a beautiful walk to the lighthouse; and Sandy Island (250-474-1336; www.bcparks.ca), only accessible by water from north Denman.

Among Hornby’s provincial parks, Tribune Bay features a long sandy beach with safe swimming, while Helliwell offers notable hiking. Ford’s Cove, on Hornby’s south coast offers the chance for divers to swim with six-gill sharks.

For kayaking rentals contact Denman Hornby Canoes & Kayaks (250-335-0079; www.denmanpaddling.ca; 4005 East Rd, Denman Island; 3hr/6hr $35/50) or Hornby Ocean Kayaks (250-335-2726; www.hornbyisland.com/kayaking; 3hr/6hr $35/50), which also offers guided tours, including a sunset trip ($50, 2ВЅ hours).

Sleeping & Eating

Denman Island Guest House & International Hostel (250-335-2688; 3806 Denman Rd, Denman Island; tent/dm/r $15/48/20) Up the hill and on the left from the ferry dock, this 1912 farmhouse is now a combined hostel and B&B with some campsites thrown in for good measure. The tree-lined property has a bistro and guests can rent bikes to tour the area then jump in the hot tub after a long day’s peddling.

Ships Point Inn (250-335-1004, 877-742-1004; www.shipspointinn.com; 7584 Ships Point Rd, Denman Island; d $135-185) A pampering waterfront sleepover perched on the edge of Fanny Bay, the six rooms and common areas in this lovely, antique-lined home are very tastefully decorated – the romantic Bay View Room has a Tuscan feel and impressive sea-to-sky vistas. The four-course breakfast, sometimes with oysters, will have you leaping from your bed.

Sea Breeze Lodge (250-335-2321, 888-516-2321; www.seabreezelodge.com; Big Tree 3-2, Hornby Island; adult/youth/child $150/90/70) This 5-hectare family-friendly retreat, with cottages overlooking the ocean, has the feel of a Spanish villa with a Pacific Rim twist. You can swim, kayak and fish here or just flop lazily into the cliff-side hot tub. The rates, reduced for under-17s, include three daily meals.

Denman Island Bakery & Pizzeria (250-335-1310; Denman Rd, Denman Island; mains $7-11; 9am-9pm Mon-Sat) This little café in the village is where the chatty locals come to hangout. Nosh on some pizza for lunch or just drop in to talk to a resident Denman artist over a java and a muffin. Friday night is Greek Night but don’t smash your plate unless someone tells you to.

Wheelhouse Restaurant (250-335-0136; Hornby Island; mains $7-14; 11am-9pm) Near the ferry dock, this casual spot’s boardwalk patio is at ground level, among gardens and hanging baskets. Summer evenings feature a barbecue buffet specializing in fresh local fare, while the main menu focuses on hearty soups, sandwiches and burgers.

Getting There & Away

BC Ferries (250-386-3431, 888-223-3779; www.bcferries.com) services arrive throughout the day at Denman from Buckley Bay (passenger/vehicle $6.05/14.50, 10 minutes). Hornby Island is accessed via ferry from Denman (passenger/vehicle $6.05/14.50, 10 minutes).


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COMOX VALLEY

Including the main towns of Comox, Courtenay and Cumberland, this is a temperate region of rolling mountains, alpine meadows and quirky communities. A good base for outdoor adventures across the region, its highlight is the Mt Washington resort. Drop by the area Visitor Centre (250-334-3234, 888-357-4471; www.discovercomoxvalley.com; 2040 Cliffe Ave, Comox; 9am-5pm mid-May–Aug, 9am-5pm Mon-Sat Sep–mid-May) for information.

The main reason for most visits, Mt Washington Alpine Resort (250-338-1386, 888-231-1499; www.mountwashington.ca; lift ticket adult/child winter $46/25, summer $28/18) is Vancouver Island’s skiing mecca. With 50 runs, a snowshoeing park (adult/child $16/11) and cross-country ski trails (adult/child $19/10), it’s a winter magnet. But there are also some great summer activities here, including horseback riding, fly-fishing, alpine hiking and mountain biking.

In addition, outdoors types should consider Miracle Beach Provincial Park (250-755-2483; www.bcparks.ca), home to hiking trails and tranquil beaches. For watery exertions, contact Courtenay’s Pacific Pro Dive & Surf (250-338-6829, 877-800-3483; www.scubashark.com; 2270 Cliffe Ave, Courtenay), which offers tours and rentals to traveling surf, scuba and kiteboarding fans.

There are plenty of B&Bs in the valley region, as well as one of Vancouver Island’s best backpacker joints. Cumberland’s Riding Fool Hostel (250-336-8250, 888-313-3665; www.ridingfool.com; 2705 Dunsmuir St, Cumberland; dm/r $22/50; wi-fi) is a restored heritage building with immaculate wooden interiors, a large kitchen and lounge area and the kind of neat and tidy private rooms often found in hotels.

For a cozy, home-style stay, the nearby Cumberland Gardens B&B (250-336-2867; www.cumberland-gardens.ca; 3303 First St, Cumberland; s/d $50/75) is also worth a look. It has two basement suites, each with their own entrance, and the chatty host will regale you with some colorful local stories.

If it’s time to eat, head to Orbitz Gourmet Pizza (250-338-7970; 492 Fitzgerald St, Courtenay; slice/pie $3.70/21.95; 11:30am-10pm Mon-Sat) where the region’s hip under-25s hang out and you’ll find the best pizza in town. We recommend the вЂ˜Saturn Return’ spinach-and-artichoke pie, with an organic chocolate-bar chaser.

If you fancy something a bit posher, head across to Atlas CafГ© (250-338-9838; 250 Sixth St, Courtenay; mains $12-18; 8:30am-3pm Mon, 8:30am-10pm Tue-Sat, 8:30am-9pm Sun), a loungey restaurant fusing Asian, Mexican and Mediterranean approaches. The fish tacos are ace and the locals often keep this place packed at meal times.


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CAMPBELL RIVER

pop 30,800

Southerners will tell you this marks the end of civilization on Vancouver Island, but Campbell River is a former rough-and-ready resource town that’s reinvented itself as a drop-off point for wilderness tourism; it’s the main departure point for Strathcona Provincial Park. Check out the town’s scattered driftwood carvings and stroll the pier for some great views of the nearby forested islands. The Visitor Centre (250-287-4636, 866-830-1113; www.campbellriver.travel; 1235 Shoppers Row; 9am-7pm) can fill you in on local happenings.

Sights & Activities

The recommended Museum at Campbell River (250-287-3103; www.crmuseum.ca; 470 Island Hwy; adult/child $6/4; 10am-5pm Mon-Sat, noon-5pm Sun mid-May–Sep, noon-5pm Tue-Sun Oct–mid-May) showcases aboriginal masks, an 1890s pioneer cabin and video footage of the world’s largest-ever artificial, non-nuclear blast: an underwater mountain in Seymour Narrows that caused dozens of shipwrecks before it was blown apart in 1958.

Since locals claim the town as the вЂ˜Salmon Capital of the World’, you should wet your line off the downtown Discovery Pier (rod rentals $6 per day) or just stroll along with the crowds and see what everyone else has caught. Much easier than catching your own lunch, you can also buy fish and chips here. Work off the beer batter with a scuba dive around the sunken HMCS Columbia. Contact Beaver Aquatics Limited (250-287-7652; 760 Island Hwy; 9:30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat) for gear and lessons.

Sleeping & Eating

Rustic Motel (250-286-6295, 800-567-2007; www.rusticmotel.com; 2140 N Island Hwy; r/ste/cabin $90/130/150; ) The rooms are modern, pastel-shaded and fairly Spartan at this quiet motel north of downtown but the shared facilities include a sauna, Jacuzzi and gazebo-covered barbecues. Rates include continental breakfast and the three-room suites and cabins are recommended for small groups.

Heron’s Landing (250-923-2848, 888-923-2849; www.heronslandinghotel.com; 492 S Island Hwy; r from $145; wi-fi) The new owners have done a good job of sprucing up this property, a former Bavarian-style pension with an old gingerbread-house look. Rooms have been fitted with fresh furnishings, appliances and bathrooms, while new extras include free wireless and laundry facilities ($1). The loft rooms are massive and comfortably sleep up to four.

Dolphins Resort (250-287-3066, 800-891-0287; www.dolphinsresort.com; 4125 Discovery Dr; cabin from $200) A beautifully maintained nest of cedar cabins spilling down to the water’s edge, this lovely miniresort is dripping with charm. The cabins have a cozy, rustic feel and each has a full kitchen with porch (barbecue rentals available). Most also have outdoor hot tubs. There’s a secluded private beach area with its own fire pit for those essential evening hangouts.

Lookout Seafood Bar & Grill (250-286-6812; 921 Island Hwy; mains $7-12; 8:30am-10pm) This old-school diner-style eatery has a slightly more cosmopolitan menu than you might expect, considering that it’s been here since 1929. Oysters, halibut burgers and fish and chips dot the menu, while intriguing historic photos of Campbell River dot the walls.

Getting There & Around

A short drive from downtown, Campbell River Airport (250-923-5012; www.crairport.ca) receives Pacific Coastal Airlines (604-273-8666, 800-663-2872; www.pacific-coastal.com) services from Vancouver International Airport ($142, 45 minutes, up to eight daily).

Greyhound Canada (800-661-8747; www.greyhound.ca) services arrive in town from Port Hardy, ($38.70, 3ВЅ hours, once a day), Nanaimo ($24.95, three hours, three daily) and Victoria ($46.50, five to six hours, three daily).

Campbell River Transit (250-287-7433; www.bctransit.com; adult/child $1.75/1.50) operates local buses throughout the area.


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QUADRA & CORTES ISLANDS

A quick hop across the water, rustic Quadra Island is a popular jaunt from Campbell River. You’ll have to traverse it to access the ferry that chugs over to Cortes (www.cortesisland.com). Quadra’s Visitor Information Booth (www.quadraisland.ca; 9am-4pm Jun-Sep) is in the parking lot of the Quadra Credit Union, uphill from the ferry dock.

Sights & Activities

Quadra’s fascinating Nuyumbalees Cultural Centre (250-285-3733; 34 Weway Rd; adult/child $15/12; 10am-4pm Tue-Sat May-Oct) recently re-opened after a prolonged hiatus. Illuminating the heritage and traditions of the local Kwakwaka’wakw First Nations, it showcases carvings and artifacts and stages traditional dance performances.

The sandy beaches and clear waters of Quadra’s Rebecca Spit Provincial Park (250-474-1336; www.bcparks.ca) offer excellent swimming and boating. On Cortes, Manson’s Landing Marine Provincial Park (250-474-1336; www.bcparks.ca) is studded with abundant shorebirds and shellfish, while Smelt Bay Provincial Park (250-474-1336; www.bcparks.ca) is ideal for picnic-fuelled sunset watching. It also has campsites ($14).

Near the Quadra ferry dock, Abyssal Diving Charters & Lodge (250-285-2420, 800-499-2297; www.abyssal.com) is the island’s main scuba excursion operator, while Coastal Spirits (250-285-2895, 888-427-5557; www.kayakbritishcolumbia.com; tours from $105) offers half, full-day and sunset kayak tours.

Sleeping & Eating

Cortes Island Motel (250-935-6363, 888-935-6363; www.cortesislandmotel.com; Seaford Rd, Cortes Island; r $89-99) Set amidst the towering trees of Manson’s Landing, this rustic place is a good-value sleepover. The rooms are a bit basic, with small bathrooms and standard furnishings, but it’s one of only a small handful of accommodations on the island.

Tsa-Kwa-Luten Lodge (250-285-2042; 800-665-7745; www.capemudgeresort.bc.ca; 1 Lighthouse Rd, Quadra Island; r/cabins $65/119) This tranquil resort on Quadra’s southern tip is set in 445 hectares of lush green forest, with stunning views of Discovery Passage. It’s a true retreat with art-lined walls and no TVs.

Whiskey Point Resort (250-285-2201; www.whiskeypoint.com; 725 Quathiaski Rd, Quadra Island; r $119-149; ) It’s worth checking out this friendly, family-oriented motel overlooking the Quadra ferry.

Heriot Bay Inn (250-285-3322, 888-605-4545; www.heriotbayinn.com; Heriot Bay, Quadra Island; r/cabin/ste $99/199/249) A handsome, pioneer-style sleepover near the Quadra ferry dock to Cortes.

Amped on Nutrition (250-285-3142; 658 Harper Rd, Quadra Island; mains $4-8; 9am-7pm) Everything is vegan and organic here. The menu highlights are hearty soups, bean burgers and heaping salads.

Lovin’ Oven II (250-285-2262; 648 Harper Rd, Quadra Island; mains $4-9; 8am-8pm May-Sep, 8am-8pm Tue-Sat Oct-Apr) Near to Amped on Nutrition, more traditional comfort food is on offer here, where the locals drop by for cake and chat.

Cove Restaurant (250-935-6350; Squirrel Cove, Cortes Island; mains $9-22; 11:30am-9pm) On Cortes, this place specializes in organic salads and local seafood and does a naughty sideline in hearty desserts. Try for a table on the waterfront deck and you’ll be overlooking some tranquil mountain-lined vistas.

Getting There & Away

Frequent BC Ferries (250-386-3431, 888-223-3779; www.bcferries.com) services arrive from Campbell River at Quadra’s Quathiaski Cove dock (passenger/vehicle $6.05/14.75, 10 minutes). On the other side of Quadra, ferries leave from Heriot Bay for Whaletown on Cortes Island (passenger/vehicle $7.10/18.05, 45 minutes). Both Quadra and Cortes are fairly large, so it can be challenging to get around without a car. Luckily, many accommodations will pick you up from the ferry.


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STRATHCONA PROVINCIAL PARK

BC’s oldest protected area is also Vancouver Island’s largest park (250-337-2400; www.bcparks.ca) at 250,000 hectares. It’s centered on Mt Golden Hinde, the island’s highest point at 2200m. Campbell River is the main access point for most visitors and Hwy 28 cuts across the park’s Buttle Lake area.

A hiker’s paradise, the Forbidden Plateau area has some notable trails including Paradise Meadows Loop (2.2km), an easy amble among wildflower meadows, and Mt Becher (5km), with its great views over the Comox Valley and mountain-lined Strait of Georgia. The 9km Comox Glacier Trail is quite an adventure but is only recommended for advanced hikers. Around Buttle Lake, easier walks include Lady Falls (900m) and the trail along Karst Creek (2km), which winds past sinkholes, percolating streams and tumbling waterfalls.

You can get close to nature by pitching your tent at Buttle Lake Campground (604-689-9025, 800-689-9025; www.discovercamping.ca; campsite $14). The swimming area and playground here make this a good choice for families. Alternatively, Ralph River Campground (campsite $14), 26km south of the Hwy 28 junction, attracts more ardent escapees from civilization. If you really want to find your own space, backcountry campsites ($5) are also available throughout the park.

Begun 50 years ago as an outdoor education center, the highly recommended Strathcona Park Lodge (250-286-3122; www.strathcona.bc.ca; r/cabins from $50/169) on Hwy 28 still makes environmental enlightenment its main mission. In keeping with its low-impact proximity to nature, there are no telephones or TVs in the rooms, which range from college-style bedrooms to secluded timber-framed cottages.

The lodge is a one-stop-shop for a range of activities, including kayaking, yoga, ziplining and rock climbing. Its laid-back Whale Room and Canoe Club Café eateries serve wholesome buffet meals (breakfast/lunch/dinner $11/11/21), while the Hi-Bracer Lounge & Bar is where you’ll head for a restorative end-of-day beer. Outside visitors are welcomed at these facilities.


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GOLD RIVER

Located at the end of Hwy 28, 89km west of Campbell River, this small town at the head of Nootka Sound is a relative newcomer to the region. Carved from the wilderness 40 years ago for workers in a now-defunct pulp mill, it’s a great base for remote fishing and hiking fans. For information, drop by the Visitor Centre (250-283-2418; www.goldriver.ca; 9am-6pm Jul-Sep) at the corner of Hwy 28 and Scout Lake Rd.

Ask here about organized and self-guided caving tours to the 450m of passages and 16 known entrances of Upana Caves, north of town on the gravel road toward Tahsis. And if you fancy a fish, Nootka Sound Fishing Charters (250-338-7679, 877-283-7194; www.nootkasoundfish.com; packages per day from $450) can help.

For a more relaxing encounter with the region, try a day-trip sail with Nootka Sound Service (250-283-2325; www.mvuchuck.com), which uses a converted WWII minesweeper to deliver supplies to settlements up-island. They take passengers along to Friendly Cove (adult/child $60/30) for the day and also offer an alternative overnight jaunt to Zeballos (adult/child $225/75) for those with time to spare. Accommodations and one meal are included.

With some surprisingly upscale rooms, some with microwaves and gas fires, Ridgeview Motor Inn (250-283-2277, 800-989-3393; www.ridgeview-inn.com; 395 Donner Ct; r $79-99) has impressive views across the inlet. It also has fish-cleaning facilities and barbecues so you can prep and scoff your catch of the day. The attached Ridge Pub (250-283-2600; mains $9-15; 10:30am-midnight Sun-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat) has better-than-average pub food and hearty seafood dishes – we recommend the shrimp clubhouse.


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NORTH VANCOUVER ISLAND

South-islanders will chuckle and tell you, вЂ˜There’s nothing up there worth seeing,’ while locals here will respond, вЂ˜They would say that, wouldn’t they?’ Parochial rivalries aside, what this giant region covering nearly half the island lacks in towns, infrastructure and population, it more than makes up for in rugged natural beauty. If your trip to BC is all about encountering the untamed wilderness close up, this is the place for you. Despite the remoteness, some areas are remarkably accessible to hardy hikers, especially with the long-awaited arrival of the North Coast Trail.

Spotting black bear feasting on road-side berries soon becomes commonplace up here, but you’ll also appreciate many of the quirky locals who color the region: northerners have a hardy, independent streak that marks them out from the down-island softies living south of Campbell River.

For further information on the region, contact Tourism North Vancouver Island (250-949-9094, 800-903-6660; www.vinva.bc.ca).

Telegraph Cove

Once nothing more than a remote telegraph station almost 200km north of Campbell River, Telegraph Cove – official population: six – has reinvented itself in recent decades as a charming visitor destination. Its pioneer outpost feel is enhanced by the dozens of wooden buildings standing around the marina on stilts, but the place can get surprisingly crowded in summer. The road into the resort was recently paved for the first time, encouraging a new hotel and housing development.

Head along the boardwalk to the smashing Whale Interpretive Centre (250-928-3129, 250-928-3117; www.killerwhalecentre.org; suggested donation $2; Jun-Sep), stuffed with hands-on artifacts and artfully displayed skeletons of cougar, sea otter and a giant fin whale.

You can also see whales of the live variety just offshore; Telegraph Cove is one of the island’s best sea-life viewing spots. Stubbs Island Whale-watching (250-928-3185, 800-665-3066; www.stubbs-island.com; cruise $74-84; May-Sep) will get you up close with the orcas on a boat trek and you might also see humpbacks, dolphins and sea lion. Its sunset cruise is highly recommended.

For a grizzly or black bear alternative, Tide Rip Tours (250-339-5320, 888-643-9319; www.tiderip.com; from $145; mid-May–Sep) leads full-day trips to local beaches and inlets.

The established Telegraph Cove Resorts (250-928-3131, 800-200-4665; www.telegraphcoveresort.com; campsite/cabin from $21/99) provides accommodations in forested tent spaces and a string of charming cabins on stilts overlooking the marina. The nearby new Dockside 29 (250-928-3163, 877-835-2683; www.telegraphcove.ca; r $115-155; wi-fi) is a good, motel-style alternative. Its rooms have kitchenettes with hardwood floors and waterfront views.

The Killer Whale Café (250-928-3155; mains $14-18; 10am-9pm May-Sep) is the cove’s best eatery – the salmon, mussel and prawn linguini is recommended. The adjoining Old Saltery Pub is an atmospheric, wood-lined nook with a cozy central fireplace and tasty Killer Whale Pale Ale. It’s a good spot to sit in a corner and pretend you’re an old sea salt.

Port McNeill

pop 2930

Barreling down the hill almost into Broughton Straight, Port McNeill is the North Island’s second-largest community, making it a useful supply stop for travelers. Drop by the log-cabin Visitor Centre (250-956-3131; www.portmcneill.net; 351 Shelley Cres; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri May-Sep) for regional info, then stop in at the adjoining museum (250-956-9898; 10am-5pm Jul-Sep, 1-3pm Sat & Sun Oct-Jun) to learn about the area’s logging-industry heritage.

More a superior motel than a resort, the hilltop Black Bear Resort (250-956-4900, 866-956-4900; www.blackbearresort.net; 1812 Campbell Way; d/tw/ste $135/155/235; wi-fi) overlooks the town and is conveniently located across the street from shops and restaurants. The standard rooms are small but clean and include microwaves and fridges; full-kitchen units are also available. Rates include a good continental breakfast buffet and use of a free-access computer in the lobby.

For heaping plates of comfort nosh, plus some eye-poppingly colorful decor, the nearby Bo-Banees (250-956-2739; 1705 Campbell Way; mains $6-9; 8am-10pm) restaurant serves burritos, burgers and Lucky Lager – the logger’s favorite booze.

Greyhound Canada (800-661-8747; www.greyhound.ca) buses arrive in Port McNeill from Port Hardy, ($5.80, 30 minutes, once a day), Campbell River ($30.20, 2ВЅ hours, once a day) and Nanaimo ($59.30, six hours, once a day).

Regular BC Ferries (250-386-3431, 888-223-3779; www.bcferries.com) services also arrive from Alert Bay and Sointula (passenger/vehicle $7.10/18.05) but times and schedules vary (see the website for details).

Alert Bay

Located on Cormorant Island in the Inside Passage, this visitor-friendly village of 600 has an ancient and mythical appeal. Its First Nations community and traditions are still prevalent, but its blend with an old pioneer fishing settlement makes it an even more fascinating day trip from Port McNeill. Drop by the Visitor Centre (250-974-5024; www.alertbay.ca; 116 Fir St; 9am-4:30pm Mon-Fri) for an introduction to the area.

The highly recommended U’mista Cultural Centre (250-974-5403; www.umista.ca; adult/child $5/1; 9am-5pm daily Jun-Aug, 9am-5pm Mon-Fri Sep-May) showcases an impressive collection of Kwakwaka’wakw masks and other potlatch items originally confiscated by Canada’s federal government. Singing, dancing and barbecues are often held here, while modern-day totem pole carvers usually work their magic out front. One of the world’s tallest totem poles was carved on-site in the 1960s and is appropriately placed on the front lawn of the Big House (250-974-5403; 1pm Thu-Sun), which hosts traditional dances in July and August.

For a nature-based tranquility highlight, amble along the mossy walk of giant cedar trees at Alert Bay Ecological Park (also known as Gator Gardens). If the ocean is calling you, Seasmoke Whale Watching (250-974-5225, 800-668-6722; www.seaorca.com; adult/child $89/75) offers a five-hour whale-watching trek on its yacht, including afternoon tea.

Port Hardy

pop 4600

Settled by Europeans in the early 1800s, this small north-island settlement is best known as the arrival/departure point for BC Ferries Inside Passage trips. It’s also a handy gear-up point for treks to remote Cape Scott.

Head to the Visitor Centre (250-949-7622; www.ph-chamber.bc.ca; 7250 Market St; 8:30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat & Sun mid-May–Sep, 9am-5pm Mon-Fri Oct–mid-May) for local information, then drop by its adjoining museum (250-949-8143; 7110 Market St; 10am-3:30pm Tue-Sat May-Oct) covering the area’s wealth of aboriginal heritage.

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Port Hardy is a great access point for exploring the north island wilderness and hikers can book a customized guided tour with the friendly folk at North Island Daytrippers (250-956-2411, 800-956-2411; www.islanddaytrippers.com). A one-stop-shop for outdoors activities, Sea Legend (250-949-6541, 800-246-0093; www.sealegend.com) also offers hiking, diving and whale-watching adventures.

For dedicated dive fans, Catala Charters (250-949-7560, 800-515-5511; www.catalacharters.net; dive packages from $125) options include trips to the famed Browning Passage area, teeming with corals, octopus and wolf eels. They also offer fishing, kayaking and aboriginal cultural tours.

If you prefer to see your wildlife on land, it’s hard to beat an overnight stay with Great Bear Nature Tours (250-949-9496, 888-221-8212; www.greatbeartours.com; from $700; mid-May–mid-Oct), which boats visitors to its floating lodge for an educational up-close encounter with the region’s black and grizzly occupants. Take the night-viewing option and you’ll be watching the nocturnal shenanigans of wolves and cougar as well.

SLEEPING & EATING

C&N Backpackers (250-949-3030, 888-434-6060; www.cnnbackpackers.com; 8470 Main St; dm/r $25/65) It looks like a light industrial unit from the outside, but the interior of this hostel is a surprise, complete with its hardwood floor lobby, large kitchen and comfortable lounge area. There’s a deficiency of windows but the dorm rooms are clean and functional.

Glen Lyon Inn & Suites (250-949-7115, 877-949-7115; www.glenlyoninn.com; 6435 Hardy Bay Rd; s/d/ste from 90/95/125; ) This recently renovated hotel has large rooms with balconies and a decidedly aqua color scheme. Most rooms have fridges and microwaves and some have kitchenettes and heart-shaped Jacuzzi baths – ideal if you’re a visiting 1970s movie star. There’s an exercise room and laundry facilities and, for ferry catchers, you’re not far from the terminal.

Quarterdeck Inn & Marina Resort (250-902-0455, 877-902-0459; www.quarterdeckresort.net; 6555 Hardy Bay Rd; s/d $125/145) A suite gives you a lot more room (plus a fireplace and Jacuzzi tub) and is worth the extra dollars if you’ve been roughing it at facility-free campsites for a few days. The upper floor waterfront rooms have excellent views

IV’s Quarterdeck Pub & Dining Room (250-949-6922; mains $8-14) At the Quarterdeck Inn & Marina Resort. Serves traditional bar grub and comfort food and a halibut burger that’s hard to beat.

GETTING THERE & AROUND

Pacific Coastal Airlines (604-273-8666, 800-663-2872; www.pacific-coastal.com) services arrive from Vancouver ($201, 75 minutes, up to six daily).

Greyhound Canada (800-661-8747; www.grey hound.ca) buses roll in from Port McNeill, ($5.80, 45 minutes, once a day), Campbell River ($38.70, 3ВЅ hours, once a day) and Nanaimo ($61.50, seven hours, once a day).

BC Ferries (250-386-3431, 888-223-3779; www.bcferries.com) arrive from Prince Rupert (passenger/vehicle $116/275, 15 hours, schedules vary) via the spectacular Inside Passage route. The company also operates a summer-only Discovery Coast Passage route (passenger/vehicle from $120/241) that serves McLoughlin Bay, Shearwater, Klemtu, Ocean Falls and Bella Coola. Reservations are required.

North Island Transportation (250-949-6300; nit@island.net) operates a handy shuttle ($8) to/from the ferry terminal via area hotels.

Cape Scott Provincial Park

It’s a mighty 568km from Victoria to the end of the logging road at the trailhead of this remote park (www.bcparks.ca) at the north tip of Vancouver Island. But if you really want to experience the raw beauty of British Columbia – especially its wild coastline, mossy rainforests and stunning sandy bays alive with roiling waves and beady-eyed seabirds – this should be your number-one destination.

From the parking area, take the relatively easy 2.5km hiking trail to San Josef Bay and you’ll stroll from the shady trees right onto one of the province’s best white-sand beaches: a breathtaking expanse of lapping ocean, tree-lined crags and the kind of caves that might harbor ancient smugglers. If it’s not too windy – like the Queen Charlotte Isalnds, this place takes the full force of the North Pacific in its stride – consider camping ($5) right here on the beach.

If you’re just here for the day, there are several tempting wooded trails – most are aimed at well-prepared hikers with plenty of gumption – and you’ll be passing between moss-covered yew trees, old-growth cedars that are centuries old and a soft carpet of sun-dappled ferns covering every square inch around you.

You’ll likely also spot some historic plaques explaining the area’s former incarnation as a Danish pioneer settlement. Now mostly reclaimed by the forest, you can still see the crumbling homes and stores of these settlers, most of whom eventually left when a promised road from the south failed to materialize and life became too tough.

One of the area’s shortest trails (2km) in the adjoining Raft Cove Provincial Park (www.bcparks.ca) brings you to the crescent-shaped beach and beautiful lagoons of Raft Cove. You’ll likely have the entire beach to yourself, although north-islanders also like to access it for surfing.

Hiking further in the region, where you’re fairly likely to come across black bear, is not for the uninitiated or unprepared. Consider a guided trek with North Island Daytrippers (250-956-2411, 800-956-2411; www.islanddaytrippers.com; tour packages from $100) if you’re not much of a compass reader.

For information on the area’s routes – and progress reports on the development of the North Island Trail that was due to open soon after our visit – check www.northcoasttrail.com.


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SOUTHERN GULF ISLANDS

Stressed-out Vancouverites tired of languishing on their favorite Stanley Park beach or trying to find the city’s best sushi restaurants often seek solace in the restorative arms of the rustic Southern Gulf Islands, handily strung like a necklace of enticing pearls between the mainland and Vancouver Island. Once colonized by hippy-dippy Canadian drop-outs and fugitive US draft dodgers, Salt Spring, Galiano, Mayne, Saturna and the North and South Penders are the natural retreat of choice for many in the region.

Not all the islands are created equal, of course. Salt Spring is recommended if you want a sojourn where you don’t have to sacrifice on great restaurants; Galiano is popular if you fancy a wood cabin, scenic nooks and outdoor activities; and remote Saturna is ideal if you really need to escape from the tourist hordes dogging your every step. Wherever you decide to head, the soothing relaxation begins once you step on the ferry to get here: time suddenly slows, your heart rate drops to hibernation level and the scenery of forested isles and glassy water slides by like a slow-motion nature documentary.

During your ferry trip, pick up a free copy of the Gulf Islands Driftwood (www.gulfislands.net) newspaper for local info, listings and happenings.

Getting There & Around

Serving the main Southern Gulf Islands, BC Ferries (250-386-3431, 888-223-3779; www.bcferries.com) operates direct routes from Vancouver Island’s Swartz Bay terminal to Salt Spring and North Pender. From North Pender, you can connect to Mayne, Galiano or Salt Spring. From Mayne, you can connect to Saturna.

From the mainland, there is a direct service from Tsawwassen to Galiano, which then connects to North Pender. There are also direct weekend services from Tsawwassen to both Mayne (Sunday only) and Salt Spring (Friday to Sunday). For more frequent services to these and the other islands, you will need to travel from Tsawwassen to Swartz Bay, then board a connecting ferry. For island hopping, consider a handy SailPass (four-/seven-day pass $169/199) which covers ferry travel around the region on 20 different routes.

Gulf Islands Water Taxi (250-537-2510; www.salt spring.com/watertaxi) runs walk-on ferries between Salt Spring, North Pender and Saturna (one-way/return $15/25) and between Salt Spring, Galiano and Mayne (one-way/return $15/25), twice daily from September to June and once a day in July and August.

Seair Seaplanes (604-273-8900, 800-447-3247; www.seairseaplanes.com) services run from Vancouver International Airport’s South Terminal to Salt Spring ($77, 20 minutes, three daily), North Pender ($82, 20 minutes, three daily), Saturna ($82, 20 minutes, three daily), Mayne ($82, 20 minutes, two daily) and Galiano ($82, 20 minutes, two daily).


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SALT SPRING ISLAND

pop 10,500

Dominating the island chain, pretty Salt Spring receives the most visitors and has the largest population. A former hippy enclave that’s now the site of many rich vacation homes, it’s well worth a visit if you’re looking for a picturesque escape from the city without sacrificing amenities.

Orientation & Information

Most travelers arrive here via BC Ferries services at one of the island’s three docks: Fulford Harbour (via Swartz Bay); Long Harbour (via Tsawwassen or another Gulf Island); or Vesuvius Bay (via Vancouver Island’s Crofton). Long Harbour is the dock for Ganges, Salt Spring’s busy main town and location of the Visitor Centre (250-537-5252, 866-216-2936; www.saltspringtoday.com; 121 Lower Ganges Rd; 11am-3pm).

Sights & Activities

Check out Ganges’ thriving Saturday Market (250-537-4448; www.saltspringmarket.com; Centennial Park; 8:30am-3:30pm Sat Apr-Oct) for luscious island-grown fruit, piquant cheeses and tons of local arts and crafts.

You can also visit local artisans with a downloadable self-guided studio map from Salt Spring Island Studio Tour (250-537-9476; www.saltspringstudiotour.com). Among the best is the rustic Blue Horse Folk Art Gallery (250-537-0754; www.bluehorse.ca; 175 North View Dr; 10am-5pm Sun-Fri Apr-Oct) where lovely angular vases jostle for space with those leaping wooden hare carvings you’ve always craved.

If cuisine is more your idea of art, don’t miss Salt Spring Island Cheese (250-653-2300; 285 Reynolds Rd), where you can take a self-guided tour of the facilities – check out the miniature ponies – then sample up to 10 curdy treats in the winery-style tasting room.

Pick a favorite for lunch then add to your feast with a bottle from Salt Spring Vineyards (250-653-9463; www.saltspringvineyards.com; 151 Lee Rd; 11am-5pm mid-Jun–Aug, noon-5pm Fri-Sun Sep & May–mid-Jun, noon-5pm Sat Oct-Nov & Mar, noon-5pm Sat & Sun Apr), where you can sample a few tipples to find the one you like best – we favor the rich blackberry port.

Consider taking your picnic to Ruckle Provincial Park (250-539-2115; www.bcparks.ca), a southeast gem with ragged seashores, arbutus forests and sun-kissed farmlands. There are hiking trails here for all skill levels, with Yeo Point making an ideal pit stop.

Work off your lunch with a kayak tour of Ganges Harbour (from $45) arranged via Salt Spring Adventure Co (250-537-2764, 877-537-2764; www.saltspringadventures.com; 124 Upper Ganges Rd).

Sleeping

Lakeside Gardens (250-537-5773; www.lakesidegardensresort.com; 1450 North End Rd; cabana/cottage $75/135; Apr-Oct) A rustic wooded retreat where nature is the main attraction, this tranquil, family-friendly clutch of cottages and cabanas is ideal for low-key fishing, swimming and boating. The cabanas are basic – think camping in a cabin – with fridges, outdoor barbecues and solar-heated outdoor showers, while the larger cottages have TVs, en suites and full kitchens.

Love Shack (250-653-0007, 866-341-0007; www.oceansidecottages.com/love.htm; 521 Isabella Rd; cabin $135) If Austin Powers ever comes to Salt Spring, this is where he’ll stay. A groovy waterfront nook where the hardest part is leaving, this cozy cottage has a lava lamp, collection of vintage cameras and a record player plus albums (Abba to Stan Getz). With plenty of artsy flourishes, the kitchen is stocked with organic coffee and the private deck is ideal for watching the sunset in your velour jumpsuit.

Bold Bluff Retreat (250-653-4377, 866-666-4377; www.boldbluff.com; cabin/tepee from $190) Those craving a wilderness escape should try this hidden hideaway – accessed via water taxi – in tree-lined Bold Bluff. Hummingbirds greet you at the old main lodge, an antique-lined reminder of well-to-do 1930s vacation homes, and you can stay in a verdant cottage, rustic waterfront cabin or hilltop tepee, complete with its own outdoor kitchen and shower. If you get lonely, Daisy the dog is always happy to visit.

Other recommendations:



Harbour House (250-537-5571, 888-799-5571; www.saltspringharbourhouse.com; 121 Upper Ganges Rd; s/d from $104/109) Great Ganges location and a combination of motel-style and superior rooms with Jacuzzis.

Seabreeze Inne (250-537-4145, 800-434-4112; www.seabreezeinne.com; 101 Bittancourt Rd; s/d from $115; wi-fi) Immaculate motel up the hill from Ganges.

Wisteria Guest House (250-537-5899, 888-537-5899; www.wisteriaguesthouse.com; 268 Park Dr; r/cottage from $99/139) Comfortable, home-style B&B serving truly gourmet breakfasts.



Eating & Drinking

Barb’s Buns (250-537-4491; 121 McPhillips Ave; mains $6-9; 7am-5pm Mon, 7am-10pm Tue-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun) Good wholesome treats are the menu mainstays here, with heaping pizza slices, hearty soups and bulging sandwiches drawing the lunch crowd, many of them grateful vegetarians. Others repeatedly fail to resist the mid-afternoon lure of organic coffee, cookies, cakes and, of course, Barb’s lovely buns.



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WORTH THE STOP: GARDEN AT THE EDGE OF THE WORLD

On the gravel road out from Cape Scott, make sure you turn off and walk up the signposted trail to Ronning’s Garden. One of the area’s later Scandinavian settlers, Bernt Ronning, lived here until the 1960s. He working as a trapper and fisherman while growing a vast outdoor museum of trees and plants with seeds he imported from around the world. His unlikely garden was reclaimed by the forest and lost after Ronning died, but determined locals Ron and Julia Moe stripped back the bushes and re-established it in the 1980s. Best known for its monkey-puzzle trees – the parents of many other such trees around the province – the garden is a lovely menagerie of non-indigenous plant life. If Ron is around when you arrive, he’ll regale you with colorful tales about Ronning and his garden and he might even hand you a monkey-puzzle seed as a souvenir of your visit.





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PARKING THE GULF ISLANDS

Canada’s 40th (and one of its smallest) national parks, the long-anticipated Gulf Islands National Park Reserve (250-654-4000; www.pc.gc.ca/gulfislands) was created in 2003. Established to protect the fragile, Mediterranean-like eco-system of a 35-sq-km tapestry of reefs, islets and coastal stretches increasingly threatened by maritime traffic and creeping development, the designation aims to be a haven for uncounted species of indigenous flora and fauna. Plants offered a new lease on life by the creation of the park include gnarly Garry oaks, copper-trunked arbutus trees, indigo-blue camas lilies and rare phantom orchids. With its 25m intertidal protection zone (Parks Canada manages an additional 175m area from each shore), the new park also protects the habitats of orcas, sea lion and one of the world’s largest octopus species.





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Tree House Café (250-537-5379; 106 Purvis Lane; mains $8-14; 8am-9pm Mon-Fri, 9am-9pm Sat & Sun May-Sep, 8am-3pm daily Oct-Apr) A magical outdoor café in the heart of Ganges. You’ll be sitting in the shade of a large plum tree here as you choose from a menu of comfort pastas, Mexican specialties and gourmet burgers – the Teriyaki salmon burger is recommended, washed down with a hoppy bottle of Salt Spring Pale Ale. Live music every night in summer.

Raven Street Market Café (250-537-2273; 321 Fernwood Rd; mains $8-14; 9am-8pm Tue-Sun, 9am-5pm Mon) A favorite haunt of north island locals, this daily neighborhood eatery has a comfort food menu with a gourmet twist. Adventurous pizzas include herbed lamb and artichoke and the seafood-and-sausage gumbo combines mussels, tiger prawns and chorizo sausage with a secret Creole recipe. There’s a little shop here, too, so you can pick up some local wine for breakfast.

Other recommendations:



Moby’s Marine Pub (250-537-5559; 124 Upper Ganges Rd; 11am-11pm) Lively bar with typical pub fare.

Oystercatcher Seafood Bar & Grill (250-537-5041; 100 Manson Rd; mains $8-16; 10am-dusk) Delectable local seafood, especially the oysters and salmon.

Restaurant House Piccolo (250-537-1844; 108 Hereford Ave; mains $20-28; 5-11pm) White tablecloth dining – duck is recommended – along with Salt Spring’s best wine list.



Getting There & Around

BC Ferries, Gulf Island Water Taxis and Seair Seaplanes operate services to Salt Spring: Click here. If you don’t have a car, the Ganges Faerie (250-537-6758; www.gangesfaerie.com; fares $8-14) shuttles between the island’s three ferry terminals and the Ganges, Ruckle Park and Fernwood areas, with pick-ups and drop-offs anywhere along the route. On our visit, plans were afoot for a new BC Transit bus service on the island.


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NORTH & SOUTH PENDER ISLANDS

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Once joined by a sandy isthmus, the North and South Penders are far quieter than Salt Spring and attract those looking for more of a retreat approach to their vacation. With pioneer farms, old-time orchards and almost 40 coves and beaches, the Penders – now linked by a single-lane bridge – are a good spot for bikers and hikers.

Orientation & Information

Ferries stop at North Pender’s Otter Bay, where most of the islands’ population resides, and the nearby Driftwood Centre has most of the shops and services. Drop by the Visitor Centre (250-629-6541, 866-468-7924; www.penderislandchamber.com; 2332 Otter Bay Rd, North Pender; 9am-5pm Jul & Aug, 9am-5pm Thu-Sun May & Jun) for information.

Sights & Activities

Enjoy the sand at Medicine Beach and Clam Bay on North Pender as well as Gowlland Point on the east coast of South Pender. Just over the bridge to South Pender is Mt Norman Regional Park, complete with a couple of hikes that promise grand views of the surrounding islands. There’s a regular Saturday Farmers’ Market (250-629-3669; 4418 Bedwell Harbour Rd) in the community hall and a smaller one at the Driftwood Centre, the region’s not-very-big commercial hub.

You can paddle around a bit with Kayak Pender Island (250-629-6939, 877-683-1746; www.kayakpenderisland.com; tours from $45), while Sound Passage Adventures (250-629-3920, 877-629-3930; www.soundpassageadventures.com) offers tempting eco-tours and scuba-diving excursions.

Sleeping

Inn on Pender Island (250-629-3353; 800-550-0172; www.innonpender.com; 4709 Canal Rd; s/d/cabin from $79/89/149) A rustic lodge with motel-style rooms and a couple of cozy, wood-lined cabins. You’re surrounded by verdant woodland here, which explains the frequent appearance of wandering deer. The lodge rooms are spic-and-span and share an outdoor hot tub, but the waterfront cabins have barrel-vaulted ceilings, full kitchens and little porches out front.

Arcadia-by-the-Sea (250-629-3221, 877-470-8439; www.arcadiabythesea.com; 1329 MacKinnon Rd; d $105-186; May-Sep; ) A 1km hop from the ferry, this tranquil, adults-only stop-off has three homely cottages (each with kitchen and deck) decorated in pastel shades and flowery bedspreads. There’s also a surprisingly large outdoor pool and a tennis court, both overlooking the sea, along with a boardwalk and deck that takes you right out to the waterfront.

Poet’s Cove Resort & Spa (250-629-2100, 888-512-7638; www.poetscove.com; 9801 Spalding Rd, Bedwell Harbour, South Pender; r from $289; ) A luxurious harbor-front lodge with arts-and-crafts–accented rooms, most with great views across the glassy water. Chichi extras include a full-service spa and an activity center that books eco-tours and fishing excursions around the area. There’s also an elegant west coast restaurant (Aurora; see below) where you can dine in style.

Eating

Pender Island Bakery Café (250-629-6453; Driftwood Centre, 1105 Stanley Point Dr; mains $4-9 8am-5pm Mon-Sat, 9am-5pm Sun) The locals’ fave coffee spot, this chatty nook takes an organic approach to its java as well as many of its bakery treats and light meals. Gourmet pizzas are the highlight – try the Gulf Islander (smoked oysters, anchovies, spinach and three cheeses) if you’re a connoisseur.

Islanders Restaurant (250-629-3929; 1325 MacKinnon Rd; mains $17-30; 5-9pm Wed-Mon) Everything about this place is local: the art on the walls, the music from the speakers, and the ingredients on the menu – except for the wild Arctic musk ox. Try the pasta medley of local aquatic treats and you’ll need to schedule a long hike for the morning after.

Aurora (250-629-2115; Poet’s Cover Resort; mains $18-30; 7:30am-9:30pm) Seasonal and regional are the operative words at this Poet’s Cove fine-dining eatery. Allow yourself to be tempted by a Salt Spring goat-cheese tart starter but save room for main dishes like the local seafood medley of crab, scallops and mussels. Dinner reservations are recommended, but if you can’t get in here head to the resort’s Syrens lounge bar.

Getting There & Around

BC Ferries, Gulf Island Water Taxis and Seair Seaplanes operate services to Pender: Click here. If you don’t have a car, and your accommodations can’t pick you up, catch a Pender Island Taxi (250-629-3555).


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SATURNA ISLAND

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The closest Gulf Island to the US (cell phones often welcome you to the States when you arrive here), small and tranquil Saturna is also remote enough to discourage most casual visitors. It’s a stunning nature-locked retreat that represents a real escape from the hurly-burly of mainland life.

Orientation & Information

The ferry docks at Lyall Harbour on the west of the island. The Saturna Island Tourism Association (www.saturnatourism.com) website has a downloadable map and lists restaurant and accommodations options. Bring cash with you – there are no ATMs here and only two shops.

Sights & Activities

On the north side of the island, Winter Cove Park has a white-sand beach that’s popular for swimming, boating and fishing. If you’re here for Canada Day (July 1), you should also partake of the island’s main annual event in the adjoining Hunter Field. This communal Lamb Barbeque (250-539-2452; www.saturnalambbar beque.com; adult/child $18.50/10), complete with live music, sack races, beer garden and a smashing meat-lovers feast, is centered on a pagan fire pit surrounded by dozens of staked-out, slow-roasting sheep.

Walk off your meat belly the next day with a hike up Mt Warburton Pike (497m) where you’ll spot wild goats, soaring eagles, and restorative panoramic views of the surrounding islands: focus your binoculars and you might catch a whale or two sailing quietly along the coast.

Sleeping & Eating

Breezy Bay B&B (250-539-5957; www.saturnacan.net/breezy; 131 Payne Rd; d $75) A 100-year-old farmhouse property with its own private beach, this cheerfully rustic sleepover is still a working farm. The main house has wooden floors, stone fireplaces and even an old library, while your room – with shared bathroom – will be fairly basic but clean and comfortable. Breakfast is in a window-lined room overlooking a garden.

Saturna Lodge (250-539-2254, 888-539-8800; www.saturna.ca; 130 Payne Rd; s/d $130-195; wi-fi) Country-style charm is the theme at this unpretentious seven-room sleepover. Rates include breakfast, but nonguests can also stop by for dinner in the restaurant (mains all $24), where regional delicacies like Queen Charlotte Islands halibut (highly recommended) are offered. Minimum two-night stay July to September.

Groceries and picnic fixings are available at the General Store (250-539-2936; 101 Narvaez Bay Rd; 9am-6pm Mon-Sat, 9:30am-5pm Sun), which also has its one excellent cafГ© (mains $8-16; 11:30am-9pm). The Lighthouse Pub (250-539-5725; 102 East Point Rd; mains $8-12; 11am-11pm Mon-Thu, 11am-midnight Fri & Sat) is a chatty spot for beer, bar grub and great views along Plumper Sound.

Getting There & Around

BC Ferries, Gulf Island Water Taxis and Seair Seaplanes operate services to Saturna: Click here. A car is not essential here since some lodgings are near the ferry terminal, but there are no taxis or shuttle services to get you around. Only bring your bike if you like a challenge: Saturna is a little too hilly for casual peddlers.


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MAYNE ISLAND

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Once a stopover for Gold Rush miners on their way to the mainland, who nicknamed it вЂ˜Little Hell’, Mayne is the region’s most historic island. Long past its importance as a commercial hub, it now houses a colorful clutch of resident artists.

Orientation & Information

Miners Bay is the island’s center, complete with a post office and other handy businesses. Visit the Chamber of Commerce (www.mayneislandchamber.ca) website for local listings and a downloadable map that highlights island artisans.

Sights & Activities

The heritage agricultural hall in Miners Bay hosts the lively Farmers’ market (Sat Jul-Sep) of local crafts and produce, while the nearby Plumper Pass Lock-up (250-539-5286; 11am-3pm Fri-Mon late Jun-early Sep) is a tiny museum that originally served as a jailhouse.

The south shore’s Dinner Bay Park has a great beach and the island’s north end is home to Georgina Point Heritage Park. The old lighthouse and keeper’s cottage are still there and it’s an invigorating place to be when the waves are pounding the shore. There’s also a small beach with lots of explorable tidal pools.

For paddlers and peddlers, Mayne Island Kayaking (250-539-2463, 877-535-2424; www.kayakmayneisland.com; 563 Arbutus Dr; kayak rentals 2hr/8hr from $28/48, bike rentals 4hr/8hr $18/25) offers boats and bikes – ideal for launching yourself on a picnic trek around the island.

Sleeping & Eating

Tinkerers’ B&B (250-539-2280; www.bbcanada.com/133.html; 417 Sunset Pl; d $110-130; mid-Apr–mid-Oct) Along Sunset Place in Miners Bay, this charming wood-frame house overlooking Active Pass has rooms of various configurations in a calming organic garden setting. Language and knife-sharpening tutorials are offered if you fancy learning a new skill on your vacation. Upstairs rooms share a shower, but have the best views.

Oceanwood Country Inn (250-539-5074; www.oceanwood.com; 630 Dinner Bay Rd; d $179-349) Nestled on the tree-lined rocky coast, this immaculate pioneer-style inn has stylish, chintzy rooms and incredible views over Navy Channel’s glassy waters. Rates include breakfast and afternoon tea in the downstairs restaurant, which is also open to nonguests for sumptuous dinners (four-course set menu $55).

Wild Fennel Restaurant (250-539-5987; 574 Fernhill Rd; mains $16-20; 6-10pm Mon-Sat) A warm, cozy dining room specializing in seasonal fresh ingredients (the menu changes every week), Wild Fennel is mostly about taste-tripping simply-prepared but exquisite local seafood. If it’s available, try the Crab Three Ways – crab served in salad, bisque and lollipop form.

Getting There & Around

BC Ferries, Gulf Island Water Taxis and Seair Seaplanes operate services to Mayne: Click here. For transportation around the island, call MIDAS Taxi (250-539-3132).


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GALIANO ISLAND

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Named after a Spanish explorer who visited in the 1790s, the bustling ferry end of Galiano is markedly different to the rest of the island, which becomes evermore forested and tranquil as you continue your drive from the dock. Supporting the widest ecological diversity of the Southern Gulf Islands – and regarded by some as the most beautiful – this skinny landmass offers a bounty of activities for visiting marine enthusiasts and landlubbers alike.

Orientation & Information

The main clutch of businesses and services is around the ferry dock, including a garage, post office and bookstore. Galiano Chamber of Commerce (250-539-2233; www.galianoisland.com) has a Visitor Info Booth (250-539-2507; 2590 Sturdies Rd; Jul & Aug) on your right-hand side as you leave the ferry. Check its website for maps and listings.

Sights & Activities

Visit Montague Harbour Marine Provincial Park (250-539-2115; www.bcparks.ca) for trails to beaches, meadows and a cliff carved by glaciers. Renowned for its eagle, loon and cormorant bird life, Bodega Ridge Provincial Park (250-539-2115; www.bcparks.ca) contains some spectacular drop-off viewpoints.

The protected waters of Trincomali Channel and the chaotic waters of Active Pass satisfy paddlers of all skill levels. Gulf Island Kayaking (250-539-2442; www.seakayak.ca; Montague Marina; 3hr/day rental from $28/50, tours from $40) can help with rentals and guided tours.

You can also explore the island with a bike from Galiano Bicycle (250-539-9906; 36 Burrill Rd; 4hr/day $23/28) or, if you want company, consider one of the customized guided tours organized by Bodega Ridge.

Sleeping

Bodega Ridge Lodge & Cabins (250-539-2677; www.bodegaridge.com; 120 Manastee Rd; cabin $125-150; wi-fi) It’s hard to imagine a more peaceful retreat than this nest of cabins, located in a wooded area of arbutus trees and rolling grass hills. The seven fully equipped, two-story log homes (each with three bedrooms) are furnished in rustic country fashion. Guided bike treks ($20 per hour) are offered for the activity-inclined.

Island Time B&B (250-539-3506, 877-588-3506; www.islandtimebc.com; 952 Sticks Allison Rd; d $135-185) It’s enough that this place enjoys a spectacular wooded waterfront setting, but hospitality and comfort are taken up a notch when you wander down to enjoy an English breakfast made by real English people (the owners hail from the Old Country). The east-facing wall is seemingly constructed from glass, so you may spend the bulk of your time glued to the windows watching the surf.

Galiano Inn (250-539-3388, 877-530-3939; www.galianoinn.com; 134 Madrona Dr; r $249-299; wi-fi) Close to the ferry dock, this immaculate Tuscan-style villa has 10 elegant rooms, each with a fireplace and romantic oceanfront terrace. The ambiance is adult, sophisticated and soothing and the amenities include a spa where you can choose outdoor flower garden treatments. The fine-dining restaurant (mains $18 to $29) has some inspiring Vancouver Island wines.

Eating & Drinking

Daystar Market CafГ© (250-539-2505; 96 Georgeson Bay Rd; mains $4-8; 10am-5pm Mon-Wed, 9am-6pm Fri, 10am-6pm Sat, 9:30am-5pm Sun) Where the locals hang out, this funky little spot is an ideal mid-morning pit stop (gotta love those chunky cranberry muffins). The hearty salads and thick sandwiches will likely entice you back for lunch and the organic juices and fruit smoothies will bring you back the next day.

La Berengerie (250-539-5392; 2806 Montague Rd; mains $12-24; 5-11pm) Tucked away along a winding, tree-lined drive in a shack that looks like it’s seen better days, La Berengerie is a culinary adventure. Overseen by Huguette Benger, a quiet, twinkly-eyed middle-aged chef who moved here from Avignon more than 20 years ago, the menu fuses rustic French bistro approaches with whatever is available locally.

Hummingbird Pub (250-539-5472; 47 Sturdies Bay Rd; mains $8-12; 11am-midnight Sun-Thu, 11am-1am Fri & Sat) Where locals and visitors sup together, the Hummingbird’s huge log columns and chatty outdoor deck lend this pub a comfortable, down-to-earth feel. The menu is full of the usual bar classics and the pub runs a May-to-September shuttle to and from Montague Harbour, so feel free to drink as much as you like.

Getting There & Around

BC Ferries, Gulf Island Water Taxis and Seair Seaplanes operate services to Galiano: Click here. Fly’n Riun’s Taxi Galiano (250-539-0202; www.taxigaliano.com) provides shuttle bus and cab service around the island.


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FRASER & THOMPSON VALLEYS

Vancouverites looking for an inland escape shoot east on Hwy 1 through the fertile plains of places like Abbotsford. Most just whiz past this farmland and you should too – unless you have a hankering to see a turnip in the rough.

About 150km east of Vancouver, Hope has a good Visitor Centre (604-869-2021; www.destinationhopeandbeyond.com; 919 Water Ave; 9am-5pm) with plenty of information about the local provincial parks and the region. This is also where the road does a three-way. Hwy 1 continues north literally into the vertical walls of the beautiful Fraser Canyon, tunneling through numerous rocky outcrops. At Lytton, it switches to the Thompson River and the terrain slowly smoothes out and becomes drier, foreshadowing the ranchlands of the Cariboo region to the north beyond Cache Creek. Hwy 5 shoots its multilane splendor 200km northeast to the commercial center of Kamloops. The Crowsnest Hwy (Hwy 3) takes a circuitous course east through rugged Manning Provincial Park and on to Osoyoos and the southern Okanagan Valley.

Note that, on weekends and other busy times, Hwy 1 west of Hope can get traffic-clogged.

EC MANNING PROVINCIAL PARK

After the farmlands of the Lower Mainland, this 70,844-hectare provincial park (604-795-6169; www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks), 30km southeast of Hope, is a hint of bigger – much bigger – things to come in the east (think Rocky Mountains). It packs in a lot of animal species and biomes ranging from dry valleys to tree-clad mountains and alpine meadows. It makes a good pause along Hwy 3 but don’t expect solitude as there are scores of folk from the burgs west seeking the same.

The park’s Visitor Centre (8:30am-4:30pm Jun-Oct, 8:30am-4pm Mon-Fri Oct-May) is 30km inside the western boundary and has detailed hiking descriptions and a relief model of the park and nearby beaver ponds. The following hiking choices are easily reached from Hwy 3:



Dry Ridge Trail Crosses from dry interior to alpine climate; excellent views and wildflowers (700m round-trip, 30 minutes).

Canyon Nature Trail Nice loop trail with a river crossing on a bridge (2km, 45 minutes).

Lightning Lake Loop A level loop around this central lake. Look for critters in the evening (9km, two hours).



Manning is a four-seasons playground. Manning Park Resort (250-840-8822, 800-330-3321; www.manningpark.com) offers downhill skiing and snowboarding (adult/child day pass $41/29) and 100km of groomed trails for cross-country skiing and snowshoeing. It also has the only indoor rooms in the park. The 73 somewhat pricey units (from $140) are a mix of rooms in the lodge and cabins. All provide use of the requisite hot tub.

You can pitch your tent at Coldspring, Hampton or Mule campgrounds (campsites $14) or the more popular Lightning Lake campground (reservations 800-689-9025; www.discovercamping.ca; campsites $22), which takes reservations. There are 10 backcountry campgrounds (campsite per person $5) for overnight hikers that are normally not accessible before late June.

Greyhound Canada (800-661-8747; www.greyhound.ca) has buses from Vancouver (adult/child $38/19, three to four hours, three daily).


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FRASER RIVER CANYON

The name alone makes Spuzzum a fun stop along Hwy 1 on its way to Cache Creek, 85km west of Kamloops. It shadows the swiftly flowing Fraser River and, as you’d expect, white-water rafting is huge here. The grand scenery and several good provincial parks make this a winning trip.

Just north of Spuzzum, Alexandra Bridge Provincial Park (604-795-6169; www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks) makes a scenic stop; you can picnic while gazing at the historic 1926 span. Further north, the ecologically diverse Stein Valley Nlaka’pamux Heritage Park (www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks) is managed with the Lytton First Nation. It offers some excellent long-distance hiking through dry valleys and snow-clad peaks.

White-water rafting down the Fraser and its tributaries’ fast-flowing rapids is popular, and a number of companies near Lytton lead trips. One-day trips cost from $100 per adult and most places offer discounts Sunday to Friday.

Kumsheen Rafting Resort (800-663-6667; www.kumsheen.com) offers a variety of trips and funky accommodations in tent-cabins ($90). Hyak River Rafting (800-663-7238; www.hyak.com) covers all the main waterways.




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KAMLOOPS

If you’ve opted to follow Hwy 1 to the east to the Rockies and Banff, Kamloops makes a useful break in the journey. Motels abound and there’s a compact historic center. Historically, the Shuswap First Nation found the many rivers and lakes useful for transportation and salmon fishing. Traders set up camp for fur hunting in 1811.

Orientation & Information

Hwy 1 cuts east–west through town, linking Vancouver with the Rockies, while Yellowhead Hwy (Hwy 5) heads northeast to Jasper and southwest to Vancouver via Merritt (this stretch is called the Coquihalla Hwy). The focus of the downtown area is Victoria St, the main shopping strip. One block south is Seymour St, which also has its share of shops and services, while Lansdowne St shadows the very busy train tracks that separate the wide Thompson River from the downtown area. Franchises and malls line the highlands along Hwy 1.

The Visitor Centre (250-374-3377, 800-662-1994; www.tourismkamloops.com; 1290 W Hwy 1, exit 368; 8am-6pm summer, 9am-6pm Mon-Fri rest of year) is just off Hwy 1 overlooking town. There’s internet access here ($2 per 10 minutes).

Sights & Activities

Three sights in particular make a downtown stroll rewarding.

Kamloops Museum (250-828-3576; www.kamloops.ca/museum; cnr Seymour St & 2nd Ave; adult/child $3/1; 9am-4:30pm Tue-Sat, until 7:30pm Thu) is in a vintage building and is known for its excellent collection of historical photographs. Come here for the scoop on river-namesake David Thompson.

Suitably loft-like in feel, the Kamloops Art Gallery (250-377-2400; www.kag.bc.ca; 465 Victoria St; adult/child $3/2; 10am-5pm Mon-Wed, Fri & Sat, 10am-9pm Thu, noon-4pm Sun) has an emphasis on contemporary Western and Aboriginal works by regional artists.

Across the train tracks, the Kamloops Heritage Railway (250-374-2141; www.kamrail.com; 510 Lorne St) runs various steam-engine–powered tours through the year (adult fares from $16).

Parents may look longingly at the cages used to corral unruly critters at the British Columbia Wildlife Park (250-573-3242; www.kamloopswildlife.org; adult/child $12/9; 9:30am-4:30pm), 17km east of Kamloops on Hwy 1.

On the often hot summer days, the beach at Paul Lake Provincial Park (250-819-7376; www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks) beckons and you may spot falcons, bald eagles, coyote and mule deer. It’s 24km north of Kamloops via Hwy 5.

Sleeping

Older and cheaper motels can be found along a stretch of Hwy 1 east of downtown. Columbia St, from the center up to Hwy 1 above town, has another gaggle of chain and indie motels.

Silver Sage Tent & Trailer Park (250-828-2077, 877-828-2077; www.silversage.kamloops.com; 771 Athabasca St E; campsites $20-25) Downtown is a five-minute walk from this shady site across the river.

Scott’s Inn (250-372-8221; www.scottsinn.kamloops.com; cnr 11th Ave & Columbia St; r from $70; wi-fi) Unlike many budget competitors, Scott’s is close to the center. The 51 rooms are motel-standard and there’s an indoor pool, hot tub and rooftop sun deck.

Plaza Heritage Hotel (250-377-8075, 877-977-5292; www.plazaheritagehotel.com; 405 Victoria St; r $120-240) You’ll think you’ve fallen into a Laura Ashley seconds bin at this 68-room six-story classic that’s little changed since its opening in 1927. In a town of bland modernity in the lodging department, the Plaza reeks with (often floral-printed) character.



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KAMLOOPS: CENTER OF THE UNIVERSE

It’s enough to send a PR flack into a hereafter of eternal joy: a group of monks has proclaimed a spot near Kamloops as вЂ˜the center of the universe.’ No, it’s not the White Spot burger joint up on Hwy 1, it’s a little further out at a knoll overlooking Vidette Lake. It is a rather serene site, but the trees, brown hills and small lake are typical of the entire region. Still, the San Francisco–based monks persist in their claim and a trickle of followers regularly drop by for enlightenment. Obviously neither Kamloops’ boosters nor the owner of the nearby rustic Vidette Lake Resort (866-843-3883; www.videttelake.com) are doing anything to bum out anyone’s fantasy.



To reach the designated grassy knoll, take Hwy 1 50km west of Kamloops, then turn north for 50km on the less-than-spiritually named Deadman Creek Rd. What sort of consciousness-raising you’ll require to hear the wind вЂ˜sing through the valley like the Mormon Tabernacle Choir,’ as some have claimed, is up to you.





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Eating & Drinking

Look for the free booklet Farm Fresh which details the many local producers you can visit. Local farmers’ markets are held in the morning on Wednesday (5th Ave and Victoria St) and Saturday (2nd Ave and St Paul St). Victoria St is the place for nightlife.

Hello Toast (250-372-9322; 428 Victoria St; mains $4-8; 8am-5pm Mon-Sat) The place for a slightly goofy vibe that adds spice to meals for every palette: veggies and whole grains for some, fried combos of bacon and eggs for others.

El Mariachi (250-434-5102; 330 Victoria St; mains from $12; 11am-11pm) More rollicking than authentic; still, this hugely popular place sparkles like your personality after a tequila shot. Join the party.

Kelly O’Bryan’s (250-828-1559; 244 Victoria St; noon-late) A classic fake-Irish bar (yes, that’s a real category these days), this one has solid bar chow, good pints and a laughable number of workers wearing kilts (Scottish? Irish? Whatever!).

Commodore (250-851-3100; 369 Victoria St; 8pm-late) The club of the moment: look for comely locals and music from DJs and regional bands.

Getting There & Around

Seven kilometers northwest of town, on Kamloops’ north shore, is Kamloops Airport (YKA; 250-376-3613). Air Canada Jazz flies to/from Vancouver (one hour) and Calgary (90 minutes) several times daily.

Greyhound Canada (800-661-8747; www.greyhound.ca) is about 1km southwest of the center off Columbia St W. Buses leave daily for Vancouver ($57, five hours, seven daily), Calgary ($90, 10 hours, four daily), Jasper ($61, six hours, twice daily), Prince George ($77, seven hours, four daily) and Kelowna ($28, 2ВЅ to four hours, three daily).

VIA Rail (888-842-7245; www.viarail.ca) serves Kamloops North Station – 11km from town – with the tri-weekly Canadian on its run from Vancouver (8½ hours) to Jasper (7½ hours) and beyond. Fares vary greatly by season and class of service.

For information about local bus routes, call Kamloops Transit Service (250-376-1216; www.city.kamloops.bc.ca/transportation/transit; one-way fare adult/child $2/free). For a taxi, try Yellow Cabs (250-374-3333).


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AROUND KAMLOOPS

The hills looming northeast of Kamloops are home to Sun Peaks Resort (800-807-3257; www.sunpeaksresort.com; lift tickets adult/child $67/34). This ever-growing resort boasts 121 ski runs (including some 8km-long powder trails), 12 lifts and a pleasant base-area village. In summer, lifts provide access to more than two dozen mountain bike trails (adult/child $33/19).

Those saving their cash for the slopes and/or trails choose the Sun Peaks Hostel (250-578-0057; www.sunpeakshostel.com; 1140 Sun Peaks Rd; dm from $22, d from $54) over the various lodges, B&Bs and top-end condos. Contact the resort for details. Past the resort road, Hwy 5 continues north toward the Alberta border and Jasper National Park (440km from Kamloops). Along the way it passes near Wells Gray Provincial Park, one of BC’s finest and a haven for those who really want to get away from civilization.


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OKANAGAN VALLEY

It is hard to know which harvest is growing faster in this fertile and beautiful valley: tourists or fruit. Certainly bounty abounds in this ever-more popular lovely swath midway between Vancouver and Alberta. The moniker вЂ˜Canada’s Napa Valley’ (applied by one too many travel writers at loss for a metaphor) is oft repeated and actually somewhat apt. The 180km-long Okanagan Valley is home to dozens of excellent wineries, whose vines spread across the terraced hills, soaking up some of Canada’s sunniest weather.

This emphasis on highbrow refreshments contrasts with the valley’s traditional role as a summertime escape for generations of Canadians, who frolic in the string of lakes linking the Okanagan’s towns. And while retirees mature slowly in the sun, so do orchards of peaches, apricots and other fruits that may not have the cachet of grapes but which give the air a perfumery redolence at the peak of summer.

Near the US border, Osoyoos is almost arid but things soon become greener heading north through attractive places like Oliver, Penticton and Vernon. Near the center, Kelowna is one of the fastest growing cities in Canada. It’s a heady mix of culture, lakeside beauty and fun. It’s also often a center for traffic, lots of traffic. In fact in July and August the entire valley can seem as overburdened as a grapevine right before the harvest. For many, the best time to visit is late spring and early fall, when the weather shines and the crowds are manageable.

OSOYOOS

pop 4900

At the south end of the Okanagan Valley, modest Osoyoos is the least affected by the Okanagan’s seemingly unquenchable popularity. While just north orchards bloom, here you’ll find Canada’s only desert, complete with cacti, rattlesnakes and lots and lots of sunshine. Averaging less than 200mm of rain a year, the area has flora and fauna bearing no relation to the country’s iconic moose and beaver; instead there’s the tiny calliope hummingbird, painted turtle, coyote and various cacti, desert brushes and grasses.

The town itself is mostly on a sand bar wedged between the halves of the stark blue waters of Lake Osoyoos. There’s a number of modest motels aimed at sun-seekers not lured by the Okanagan flash to the north. A busy crossroads, it makes a good place to burrow in for the night.

Orientation & Information

Osoyoos is at the crossroads of Hwy 97 heading north to Penticton and Hwy 3, which runs east to the Kootenay region (Click here) and west to Hope. The US border, cutting through Osoyoos Lake, is just 5km to the south. Most of the town is strung out along several kilometers of Hwy 3, known locally as Main St, with the majority of accommodations found on the narrow strip of land that splits Osoyoos Lake, offering water views both north and south.

The new Visitor Centre (250-495-5070, 888-676-9667; www.destinationosoyoos.com; cnr Hwy 3 & Hwy 97; 8am-8pm summer, Mon-Fri winter) is one of those architecturally grand new BC visitor centers (like the one in Golden) that don’t come close to the usefulness of their more modest predecessors.

Sights & Activities

Osoyoos Lake is one of the warmest in the country. That, together with the sandy beaches, means great swimming. Many lakeside motels and campgrounds hire out kayaks, canoes and small boats.

Hear the rattle of a snake and the songs of birds at the Osoyoos Desert Centre (250-495-2470; www.desert.org; off Hwy 97; adult/child $7/3.50; 9am-7pm Apr-Oct, call other times), 3km north of Osoyoos, which has interpretive kiosks along raised boardwalks that meander through the dry land. The nonprofit center offers 90-minute guided tours throughout the day. Special gardens focus on delights like delicate wildflowers. Note that, even here, condo development encroaches like globally warmed dunes.

Part of a First Nation empire, the Nk’Mip Desert & Heritage Centre (250-495-7901; www.nkmipdesert.com; 1000 Rancher Creek Rd; adult/child $12/8; 9:30am-4:30pm, closed Sun in winter), off 45th St north of Hwy 3, features cultural demonstrations and guided tours of the sandy highlights. It also has a desert golf course, a noted winery (Click here), a resort and more.

If you need some solar respite, the modest Osoyoos Museum (250-495-2582; Gyro Community Park, off Hwy 3; adult/child $3/1; 10am-3:30pm Jun-Sep, 2-5pm, Tue-Thu winter) will fill a shady hour with its displays on local history and the orchards.

Sleeping

The eastern edge of the lake is lined with campgrounds. More than a dozen modest motels line the shores of the lake (beware of shabby older properties). Many cluster around Hwy 3 and there’s another clump on the southwest shore near the border. Chains can be found at the junction. Rates plummet in winter.

Nk’Mip Campground & RV Resort (250-495-7279; www.campingosoyoos.com; campsites $22-27) There are over 300 sites at this year-round resort off 45th St north of Hwy 3.

Avalon Inn (250-495-6334; 800-264-5999; www.avaloninn.com; 9106 Main St; r from $90; ) Away from the lake but close to the best restaurants, this 20-unit motel has large, broadband-equipped rooms.

Sandy Beach Motel (250-495-6931, 866-495-6931; www.sandybeachmotel.com; 6706 Ponderosa Dr; r $100-220; ) Free rowboats and a volleyball court set the cheery tone at this 25-unit beachside place just north of Hwy 3. Bungalows and a two-story block surround a shady lawn with barbecues.

Poplars Motel (250-495-6035; 6404 Cottonwood Dr; r from $105; ) The 34 units here are in a two-story block on a private beach. Families enjoy the simple playground, shady sands, use of a heated pool, kitchen facilities in every room and barbecue outside.

Eating

Selection is not vast but there are three excellent and widely different options in Osoyoos.

Osoyoos Gelato (250-495-5425; 9150 Main St; treats from $2; 10am-10pm summer) Blackberry merlot, lavender, nectarine and peach are just some of the flavors drawn from the fruits of the valley at this pilgrimage spot for frozen treats (or screw the fruit and have Toblerone).

Diamond (250-495-6223; 8903 Main St; mains $15-25; 5-9pm) Regularly chosen by locals across the valley as the best place for a steak, this 1960s throwback has vinyl booths, hearty cocktails and luscious grilled beef. Tzatziki and moussaka betray the owner’s Greek roots.

Wildfire Grill (250-495-2215; 8526 Main St; mains $15-25; 11am-3pm, 5-10pm or later in summer) Indulging on the lovely back patio here is a local delight. Okanagan produce fuels fusion fantasies on the seasonally changing menu. At night, sample the bevy of local wines in the Lizard Lounge.

Getting There & Away

Greyhound Canada (800-661-8747; www.greyhound.ca; Visitor Centre, cnr Hwy 3 & Hwy 97) runs to Vancouver ($68, eight hours, twice daily) and Kelowna ($23, 2ВЅ hours, once daily).


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AROUND OSOYOOS

West of Osoyoos, Hwy 3 follows the rugged Similkameen Valley 47km to Keremeos, a cute town surrounded by orchards.

About 30km west of Keremeos is Cathedral Provincial Park (604-795-6169; www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks), a 33,000-hectare mountain wilderness that’s a playground for the truly adventurous. The park offers excellent backcountry camping ($5) and hiking around wildflower-dappled Alpine expanses and turquoise waters.


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OLIVER

pop 2000

Once a humdrum fruit-picking center, Oliver has found a new incarnation as a center for organic produce and wine. Shortly after leaving Osoyoos for the 20km drive north, Hwy 97 plunges through orchard after orchard laden with lush fruits. Roadside stands display the ripe bounty and many places will let you pick your own. The Visitor Centre (250-498-6321; www.oliverchamber.bc.ca; 36250 93rd St; 9am-5pm May-Sep, Mon-Fri Oct-Apr) is in the old train station near the center of town.

The major local attraction is right at the main crossroads. Toasted Oak (250-498-4867; 34881 97th St; mains $10-25; 11am-9pm) has at least 250 BC wines on offer. Sample till you drop. Food focuses on locally sourced items from salads and sandwiches to elaborate mains.

Nearby, Mount View Motel (250-498-3446; www.mountviewmotel.net; 34426 97th St; r $65-120; wi-fi) has seven units around a flower-bedecked motor court. All have kitchens – and corkscrews.

Oliver’s vibrant Farmers’ market (8:30am-12:30pm Sat Jul-Sep) showcases local foodstuffs and is close to Hwy 97. For a splendid picnic, peruse the deli cases at Cantaloupe Annie’s (250-498-2955; 34845 97th St; meals from $6; 9:30am-5:30pm Mon-Sat, 11am-3pm Sun summer; wi-fi), a café famous for its local specials, smoked meats and fruit-based desserts.

You can reach Oliver on one of the two Greyhound Canada (800-661-8747; www.greyhound.ca) round trips that traverse the valley daily; although by car – or bike – you’ll be able to indulge in more roadside merriment.





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OLIVER TO PENTICTON

About 10km north of Oliver on Hwy 97, nature reasserts itself. Vaseux Wildlife Centre (250-494-6500; dawn-dusk) has a 300m boardwalk for viewing oodles of birds (it’s not just humans migrating here), bighorn sheep, mountain goats or some of the 14 species of bat. You can also hike to the Bighorn National Wildlife Area and the Vaseux Lake National Migratory Bird Sanctuary, with more than 160 bird species.

You can camp (campsites $14) at one of the 12 simple lakeside sites along Hwy 97, popular for fishing, swimming and canoeing in summer. In winter, people skate and ice-fish.


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PENTICTON

pop 34,000

Lacking the glitz of Kelowna, Penticton cheerfully relishes its role as the classic Okanagan beach town. In fact it’s bookended by sandy swaths. At the south end there’s a diminishing number of campgrounds (while condos are blooming like algae after a sewer spill) and a few modest motels front Skaha Lake. The real action is on the north side where the town’s delightful center runs right up to Okanagan Lake.

Watersports abound plus there’s world-class climbing at nearby Skaha Bluffs. There’s a slightly edgy line-up of good cafГ©s, restaurants and cultural pursuits or you can kick back, brew in hand, at one of the many mellow beachside drinking spots on Lakeshore Drive West. Soon you may appreciate the literal meaning of the original Salish name, Pen-Tak-Tin: вЂ˜place to stay forever.’

Orientation & Information

Hwy 97 passes west of much of Penticton. It’s much more interesting to traverse the town via Main St, which runs north and south and splits the center. The attractive downtown area extends for about 10 blocks southward from Okanagan Lake along Main St, and has a full range of restaurants, shops, banks and services. Go further south, however, and you’ll encounter strip malls and sprawl. Close your eyes.

The Visitor Centre (250-493-4055, 800-663-5052; www.vacationshappenhere.com; 553 Railway St at Hwy 97 & Eckhardt Ave W; 8am-8pm May-Sep, 10am-6pm Oct-Apr) is one of BC’s best. There’s free internet and, even better, a whole room devoted to the BC Wine Information Centre with regional wine information, tasting and sales.



Book Shop (250-492-6661; 242 Main St) Huge collection of used books.

Okanagan Books (250-493-1941; 233 Main St) Good selection of regional books and maps.

Penticton Library (250-492-0024; 785 Main St; 9:30am-5pm Mon-Sat, until 9pm Tue & Thu, 1-5pm Sun winter) Has free internet access.

Post Office (250-492-8000; Penticton Plaza Mall, 1301 Main St; 9am-6pm Mon-Sat) In the Shopper’s Drug Market, past the aisle for incontinence relief.





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IT’S TIME FOR FRUIT

Major Okanagan Valley crops and their harvest times:





Strawberries Mid-June to early July

Raspberries Early to mid-July

Cherries Mid-June to mid-August

Apricots Mid-July to mid-August

Peaches Mid-July to mid-September

Pears Mid-August to late September

Apples Early September to late October

Table Grapes Early September to late October





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Sights

Right on the sand, the SS Sicamous (250-492-0403; 1099 Lakeshore Dr W; adult/child $5/1; 9am-9pm May-Oct, 10am-4pm Mon-Fri Nov-Apr) hauled passengers and freight on Okanagan Lake from 1914 to 1936. Now restored and beached, it has been joined by the equally old SS Naramata, a tug boat.

The beachfront Art Gallery of Southern Okanagan (250-493-2928; 199 Marina Way; admission $2; 10am-5pm Tue-Sat) displays a diverse collection of regional, provincial and national artists.

After checking your email at the library, drop in to the adjoining Penticton Museum (250-490-2451; 785 Main St; admission by donation; 10am-5pm Tue-Sat), which has delightfully eclectic displays, including the de rigueur natural-history exhibit with stuffed animals and birds.

Activities

Classic cheesy resort diversions like minigolf await at the west end of Okanagan Beach.

WATERSPORTS

The paved Okanagan River Channel Biking & Jogging Path follows the rather arid channel which links Okanagan Lake to Skaha Lake. But why pound the pavement when you can float? Coyote Cruises (250-492-2115; 215 Riverside Dr; rental & shuttle $11; 10am-4:30pm Jun-Aug) rents out inner tubes that you can float to a midway point on the channel. Coyote Cruises buses you back to the start near Okanagan Lake (if you have your own floatable, it’s $4 for the bus ride).

Okanagan Beach boasts about 1300m of sand, with average summer water temperatures of about 22°C. If things are jammed, there’s often quieter shores at 1.5km-long Skaha Beach south of the center.

Both Okanagan and Skaha lakes enjoy some of the best sailboarding, boating and paddling conditions in the Okanagan Valley. Pier Water Sports (250-493-8864; Rotary Park, Lakeshore Dr W; kayaks per hr $16) rents just about anything that floats. A full day’s rental of a ski boat is $470.

MOUNTAIN BIKING

The dry climate and rolling hills around the city combine to offer some excellent mountain biking terrain. Get to popular rides by heading east out of town, toward Naramata. Follow signs to the city dump and Campbell’s Mountain, where you’ll find lots of single-track trails and a dual-slalom course, both of which aren’t too technical.

During summer, the chairlift (single ride adult/child $15/12) at Apex Mountain Resort zips riders and their bikes to the top of the mountain. You can explore the backcountry or simply get a rush from following a trail down again.

Rent bikes and pick up a wealth of information at Freedom – The Bike Shop (250-493-0686; 533 Main St; bikes per day $35).

ROCK CLIMBING

Propelled by the dry weather and compact gneiss rock, climbers from all over the world come to the Skaha Bluffs to enjoy a seven-month climbing season on more than 400 bolted routes. However, recently conditions at the site have been imperiled not by falling rocks but by thorny access issues across private land. Check out the latest details at www.skaha.org.

Skaha Rock Adventures (250-493-1765; www.skaharockclimbing.com; 1-day courses from $140) offers advanced, technical instruction and introductory courses for anyone venturing into a harness for the first time.

SKIING & SNOWBOARDING

Apex Mountain Resort (877-777-2739, conditions 250-487-4848; www.apexresort.com; lift tickets adult/child $54/33), 37km west of Penticton off Green Mountain Rd, is one of Canada’s best small ski resorts. It has more than 65 downhill runs for all ability levels, but the mountain is known for its plethora of double-black-diamond and technical runs (the drop is over 600m). There are also 30km of cross-country trails that can be used for hiking, mountain biking and horseback riding in summer.

Festivals & Events

It seems like Penticton has nothing but crowd-drawing festivals all summer long.



Elvis Festival (www.pentictonelvisfestival) Dozens of Elvis impersonators could be your idea of heaven or hound-dog hell, especially the afternoon of open-mike sing-alongs. Held in mid-June.

Peach Festival (800-663-5052; www.peachfest.com) The city’s premier event is basically a weeklong party in early August that has taken place since 1948, loosely centered on crowning a Peach Queen.

Pentastic Jazz Festival (250-770-3494; www.pentasticjazz.com) More than a dozen bands perform at five venues over three days in early September.



Sleeping

Lakeshore Drive West and South Main St/Skaha Lake Rd are home to most of the local motels. The Okanagan Beach strip is the most popular area. The visitor center has a long list of B&Bs. Expect off-season discounts.

Park Royal RV Resort (250-492-7051; www.parkroyal.ipenticton.com; 240 Riverside Dr; car/RV sites from $35) Right near the busy end of Okanagan Beach, the 40 sites here are set amongst shady lawns.

HI Penticton Hostel (250-492-3992; www.hihostels.ca; 464 Ellis St; dm $20-25, r from $50; ) This 47-bed hostel is near the center in a heavily used old house. The hostel arranges all sorts of activities, including wine tours.

Ogopogo Motel (250-492-7616; www.ogopogo motel.tripod.com; 270 Riverside Dr; r $65-105; ) There’s nothing scary about this modest motel named for the mythical good-natured monster of Okanagan Lake. Rooms have kitchen facilities and are close to the Lakeshore Drive action.

Penticton Slumber Lodge (250-492-4008, 800-663-2831; www.slumberlodge.com; 274 Lakeshore Dr W; r from $100; ) All 44 units here are large; some have multiple bedrooms and all have kitchen facilities. Nestled in the two-story blocks is an indoor pool.

Tiki Shores Beach Resort (250-492-8769, 866-492-8769; www.tikishores.com; 914 Lakeshore Dr W; condos $130-300; wi-fi) This lively resort has 40 condo-style units – some quite large – with separate bedrooms and kitchens. Make a splash in the large outdoor pool.

Eating

Penticton definitely has its share of good eats. Stroll around Main and Front Sts in the center and you will find numerous choices.

Can Coffee Co (250-493-3044; The Cannery, 1475 Fairview Rd at Duncan Ave; meals $6; 7am-8pm; wi-fi) Housed in a funky old cannery, this high-ceilinged cafГ© has lots of space inside and out for enjoying good coffees, breakfasts and sandwiches.

Vallarta Grill (250-492-5610; 988 Lakeshore Dr W; mains $8-16; 5-10pm) When tortilla soup takes star billing over nachos you know you’re on to something good. In this case it’s one of BC’s most authentic Mexican restaurants – and it’s right across from the beach. Eat outside, order the food spicy and ask the staff to only speak Spanish (all these are menu options) and sing a song of old Acapulco.

Dream Café (250-490-9012; 67 Front St; mains $10-20; 8am-late Tue-Sun; ) This groovy place hums along from breakfast right through dinner. The dinner menu mixes sprightly flavored fare with a plethora of influences. On many evenings there’s live acoustic guitar or folk music.

Theo’s (250-492-4019; 687 Main St; mains $10-20; 11am-10pm) Skip the trip to some rocky outcrop off Athens and enjoy food that’s even better here. Grape vines out front shield a gorgeous and airy dining room. And the food? The website, www.eatsquid.com, says it all.

Salty’s Beachhouse Seafood Restaurant (250-493-5001; 1000 Lakeshore Dr; mains $13-25; 4-11pm Apr-Oct) Ahoy matey! The bounty of the ocean becomes your booty at this beachside seafood joint that doesn’t miss a single nautical cliché. Shtick aside, the food is excellent and is best enjoyed on the large patio.



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OKANAGAN VALLEY WINERIES

The abundance of sunshine, fertile soil and cool winters have allowed the local wine industry to thrive. Kelowna and the region north are known for whites like Pinot Grigio. South, near Penticton and Oliver, reds are the stars, especially the ever-popular merlots.



A majority of the over 100 wineries are close to Hwy 97, which makes tasting a breeze. Most offer tours and all will gladly sell you a bottle or 20 (in fact many of the best wines are only sold at the wineries). A growing number are adding top-end restaurants that offer fine views and complex regional fare to compliment what’s in the glass.



Festivals

Okanagan seasonal wine festivals (www.thewinefestivals.com) are major events, especially the one in fall.



The usual dates:





Fall Early October

Winter Mid-January

Spring Early May

Summer Early August



Information

Two good sources of information on Okanagan Valley wines are the BC Wine Information Centre in Penticton’s visitor center Click here and the Wine Museum in Kelowna. John Schreiner’s Okanagan Wine Tour Guide is an authoritative guidebook.



Tours

There are several companies that let you do the sipping while they do the driving.





Club Wine Tours (250-762-9951, 866-386-9463; www.clubwinetours.com; 3-8hr tours $49-125)

Okanagan Wine Country Tours (250-868-9463, 866-689-9463; www.okwinetours.com; tours $65-130) Also offers custom tours and longer ones lasting several days.

Wildflower Trails and Wine Tours (250-979-1211, 866-979-1211; www.wildflowersandwine.com; tours from $73) Offers tours with hikes through the scenic hills so you can work up a thirst.



Visiting the Wineries

At wineries open for visitors, you can expect to taste wine, but the experience varies greatly. Some places have just a couple of wines on offer, others offer dozens of vintages. Some tasting rooms are just glorified sales areas, others have magnificent views of the vineyards, valley and lakes. Some charge, others are free.



Among the dozens of options, the following (listed north to south) are recommended. Summerhill Pyramid and Cedar Creek Estate are south of Kelowna along the lake’s east shore. The rest of the wineries can be reached via Hwy 97.





Calona Vineyards (Map; 250-762-3332; 1125 Richter St, Kelowna; 9am-6pm summer, 10am-5pm winter) Near Kelowna’s Cultural District, one of BC’s largest producers, Calona was the first in the Okanagan Valley; it started in 1932.

Summerhill Pyramid Winery (Map; 250-764-8000; 4870 Chute Lake Rd) One of the most popular wineries for visitors. Owner Steve Cipes ages many of the wines in a huge pyramid. Celebrate the mystic powers with one of their sparkling wines. Forster’s Sunset Bistro (mains $10 to $20; open 11am to 9pm) has a view to match its name.

Cedar Creek Estate Winery (Map; 250-764-8866; www.cedarcreek.bc.ca; 5445 Lakeshore Rd, Kelowna; 10am-6pm Apr-Oct, 11am-5pm Nov-Mar) Known for excellent tours as well as Ehrenfelser, a delightful fruity white wine. The Vineyard Terrace (mains $10 to $15) is good for lunch. It’s open 11:30am to 3pm from June to mid-September.

Quails’ Gate Estate Winery (Map; 250-769-4451; www.quailsgate.com; 3303 Boucherie Rd, Kelowna; 10am-5pm) A small winery with a huge reputation; known for its Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc and more. The restaurant, open from 11am to 9pm (mains $10 to $20), is among the best.

Mission Hill Family Estate (Map; 250-768-7611; www.missionhillwinery.com; 1730 Mission Hill Rd, Westbank; 10am-5pm) Go for a taste of one of the blended reds (try the Bordeaux) or the thirst-quenching Pinot Gris. Simple lunches (mains $8 to $15) are served on the terrace from noon to 2pm and from 4pm to 9pm, May to October.

Wild Goose Vineyards (Map; 250-497-8919; www.wildgoosewinery.com; 2145 Sun Valley Way, Okanagan Falls; 10am-5pm Apr-Oct) Owned by the Kruger family who make many excellent light German-style whites, this winery is especially friendly.

Inniskillin Okanagan Vineyards (Map; 250-498-6663; www.inniskillin.com; Rd 11 W, Oliver; 10am-6pm May-Oct, 10am-5pm Mon-Fri Nov-Apr) BC’s first producer of Zinfandel is also home to the elixirs known as ice wines.

Burrowing Owl Vineyards (Map; 250-498-0620; www.bovwine.ca; 100 Burrowing Owl Place, Oliver; 10am-5pm Apr-Oct) Wine with an eco-accent that includes organic grapes. The Sonora Room restaurant (set meals $15-$40) is simply superb: book a balcony table. It’s open 11am to 2pm and from 5pm to 9:30pm April to October.





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The Farmers’ market (250-770-3276; Gyro Park at Main St; 8am-noon Sat May-Oct) is host to large numbers of local organic producers. On most afternoons, enjoy Jeffer’s Fryzz, a truck that serves up amazing French fries in myriad flavors near the corner of Main St and Nanaimo Ave.

Drinking & Entertainment

Barking Parrot (250-493-8221; Penticton Lakeside Resort, 21 Lakeshore Dr W; noon-late summer) Tourists and locals mix and mingle at the outdoor tables here overlooking the lake. There’s frequent live music and comedy.

Blue Mule (250-493-1819; 218 Martin St; 8pm-late Sat & Sun) Located near the corner of Westminster Ave, the Mule features DJs spinning country music and classic rock. The cover charge varies.

Getting There & Around

Penticton Regional Airport (YYF; 250-492-6042; www.cyyf.org) is served by Air Canada Jazz, which has daily flights to Vancouver (one hour).

Greyhound Canada (800-661-8747; www.greyhound.ca; 307 Ellis St) offers services within the Okanagan Valley as well as operating routes to Vancouver ($62, 7ВЅ hours, one daily) and Kamloops ($39, 4ВЅ hours).

The lake-to-lake shuttle bus of Penticton Transit (250-492-5602; www.busonline.ca; one trip $1.75, day-pass $4) runs hourly along both waterfronts from 9am to 7pm Monday to Saturday.



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SCENIC DRIVE: NARAMATA

On all but the busiest summer weekends, escape many of Penticton’s mobs by taking the road less traveled, 18km north from town along the east shore of Okanagan Lake. The route is lined with more than 20 wineries as well as farms producing organic lavender and the like. There’s lots of places to hike, picnic, bird-watch or do whatever else occurs to you in beautiful and often secluded surroundings. Naramata is a cute little village and there are B&Bs should you decide to linger.





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KELOWNA

pop 150,000

An idyllic lakeshore lined with parks and attractions, a vibrant cultural community, excellent wineries, good restaurants and lots of activities year-round give Kelowna an almost too-good-too-be-true appeal. Happily, developers and the hordes attracted to this wonder bring a dose of reality to what would otherwise be a fantasyland.

The downtown is fast changing as condos rise to 12 or more stories but it’s still a delightful place to stroll, especially the cultural district that runs north along Ellis St. Stroll the many well-manicured parks lining the lake and hang out at one of the beaches. When you see a café you like, plop down for a respite, whether it’s from all the exertion or simply the summertime mobs that are also onto the scene.

Kelowna, an Interior Salish word meaning вЂ˜grizzly bear,’ owes its settlement to a number of missionaries who arrived in 1858, hoping to вЂ˜convert the Natives.’ Settlers followed and in 1892 the town was established. Industrial fruit production was the norm until the wine industry took off 20 years ago.

Should you check out real estate prices today, you’ll be ready for a drink.

Orientation

Kelowna sits midway between Vernon and Penticton, along the east side of 136km-long Okanagan Lake. Starting from City Park, Bernard Ave runs east and is the downtown’s main drag.

Harvey Ave (Hwy 97) marks the southern edge of the downtown area. To the west the woefully inadequate highway bridge should be replaced by 2009. East of downtown, Harvey Ave degenerates into an ever-lengthening 10km boulevard of shame lined with strip malls, motels, fast-food joints and tat. In the summer and on busy weekends traffic backups clog the street for many clicks in either direction.

About 2km south of Harvey Ave along Pandosy Ave is Pandosy Village, a charming and upscale lakeside enclave.

Information

Many downtown cafГ©s have wi-fi access.



Kelowna General Hospital (250-862-4000; 2268 Pandosy St at Royal Ave; 24hr)

Kelowna Library (250-762-2800; 1380 Ellis St; 10am-5:30pm Mon, Fri & Sat, 10am-9pm Tue-Thu, 1-5pm Sun Oct-Mar) Visitors enjoy one hour of free online access.

Mosaic Books (250-763-4418; 411 Bernard Ave) Excellent independent bookstore. Sells maps (including topographic ones) and travel guides, plus books on aboriginal history and culture. Good selection of magazines and a coffee bar.

Post Office (250-868-8480; 591 Bernard Ave; 8:30am-5:30pm Mon-Sat)

Visitor Centre (250-861-1515, 800-663-4345; www.tourismkelowna.com; 544 Harvey Ave; 8am-7pm summer, 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat & Sun winter) Near the corner of Ellis St.



Sights

CITY PARK & PROMENADE

The focal point of the city’s shoreline, this immaculate downtown park is home to manicured gardens, water features and Hot Sands Beach, where the water is just slightly cooler than the summer air. Restaurants and pubs take advantage of the uninterrupted views of the lake and forested shore opposite. North of the marina, Waterfront Park has a variegated shoreline and a popular open-air stage.

CULTURAL DISTRICT

Pick up the Cultural District walking tour and public art brochures at the visitor center or better yet, join one of the free walking tours (250-469-8883; www.kelownasculturaldistrict.com; 10am Tue-Fri Jul & Aug) which depart from the Laurel packing house.

The airy Kelowna Art Gallery (250-979-0888; www.kelownaartgallery.com; 1315 Water St; admission free; 10am-5pm Tue-Sat, 10am-9pm Thu, 1-5pm Sun) features local works. Nearby, Art Ark (250-862-5080; 1295 Cannery Lane; 10am-5pm, till later in summer) shows and sells a wide range of works (paintings, sculpture, photography, mixed media and so on, by Western Canadian artists. Next door, the tiny Turtle Island Gallery (250-717-8235) sells and displays works by Aboriginal artists.



Located in the old Laurel packing house, the BC Orchard Industry Museum (250-763-0433; 1304 Ellis St; admission by donation; 10am-5pm Mon-Sat) recounts the Okanagan Valley from its ranchland past, grazed by cows, to its present, grazed by tourists. The old fruit packing-crate labels are works of art.

In the same building, the knowledgeable staff at the Wine Museum (250-868-0441; admission free; 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 11am-5pm Sat & Sun) can recommend tours, steer you to the best wineries for tastings and help you fill your trunk with examples of the myriad local wines on sale.

The Kelowna Museum (250-763-2417; 470 Queensway Ave; admission by donation; 10am-5pm Tue-Sat) has everything from the bones of early valley inhabitants to displays on the seeds of local agriculture.

Behind the museum, the exquisite grounds of Kasugai Gardens (admission free; 9am-6pm) are good for a peaceful stroll.

Activities

The balmy weather makes Kelowna ideal for fresh-air fun, whether on the lake or in the surrounding hills.



* * *



WORTH THE STOP: PEACHLAND

Hugging the lake below Hwy 97, some 25km south of Kelowna, the little town of Peachland is good for a quick, breezy stroll. But smart stoppers will pause longer at the Blind Angler Grill (250-767-9264; 5899A Beach Ave; mains $8-25; 9am-9pm), a sort of shack-like place overlooking a small marina. What’s lost in structural integrity is more than made up for in the food quality: breakfasts shine, burgers are superb and the nighttime ribs and halibut are sublime. Banter flies almost as fast as plates out of the kitchen.





* * *



You can rent speedboats (starting at $60 per hour), arrange fishing trips and cruises or rent windsurfing gear at Kelowna Marina (250-861-8001; Queensway Ave), at the lake end of Queensway Ave. Windsurfers take to the water from the old seaplane terminal, near the corner of Water St and Cawston Ave.

You’ll find great hiking and mountain bike riding all around town. The 17km Mission Creek Greenway is a meandering, wooded path following the creek along the south edge of town. The western half is a wide and easy expanse, but to the east the route becomes sinuous as it climbs into the hills.

Knox Mountain, which sits at the northern end of the city, is another good place to hike or ride. Along with bobcats and snakes, the 235-hectare park has well-maintained trails and rewards visitors with excellent views from the top.

The renowned Kettle Valley Rail Trail is making a remarkable comeback from the fire destruction of 2003. This abandoned old railway line, which in one 24km-stretch affords fantastic views of the Myra Canyon, is a highly popular trail. Thanks to a huge community effort, it’s expected that all 12 of the 18 historic wooden trestles that spanned the gorges and valleys destroyed by the fire will be replaced by 2008 (follow progress at www.myratrestles.com). The overall 174km network of trails follow the old railway as far south as Penticton and beyond.

To reach the trail, follow Harvey Ave (Hwy 97) east to Gordon Drive. Turn south and then east on KLO Rd and follow it all the way to the end of McCulloch Rd. About 2km after the pavement ends, you’ll come to a clearing where power lines cross the road. Turn south on the Myra Forest Service Rd and follow it for 8km to the parking lot.

Sleeping

As in the rest of the Okanagan Valley, accommodations here can be difficult to find in summer if you haven’t booked. At other times, look for bargains. The visitor center lists dozens of area B&Bs. Chain motels dominate Harvey Ave/Hwy 97 going east. Rates fall as you head along the strip but you pay the price by being in less-than-salubrious surroundings.

BUDGET

There are few camping options close to town, most are west of the lake towards the unappealing town of Westbank.

Willow Creek Family Campground (250-762-6302; www.willowcreekcampground.ca; 3316 Lakeshore Rd; tent/RV sites from $29/32; wi-fi) Close to Pandosy Village and a beach, this 81-site facility has a laundry and grounds shaded by the namesake trees.

Kelowna SameSun International Hostel (250-763-9814, 877-972-6378; www.samesun.com; 245 Harvey Ave; dm/r from $24/50; wi-fi) Near downtown and the lake, this vibrant 130-bed hostel is nicer than many nearby motels. The hostel offers free pick-up at the bus depot as well as shuttles to the SameSun Big White and Silver Star ski-resort hostels.

MIDRANGE

Motels abound downtown, along Hwy 97 and at Pandosy Village.

Abbott Villa Travelodge (250-763-7771, 800-578-7878; www.travelodge.com; 1627 Abbott St; r from $80; wi-fi) Perfectly located across from City Park, this 52-room motel has small but spotless rooms with fridges, an equally small outdoor pool and a hot tub.

Accent Inn (250-862-8888, 800-663-0298; www.accentinns.com; 1140 Harvey Ave; r from $100; wi-fi) This is the pick of the litter at this motel-lined close-in corner on Hwy 97. The 102 units in three-story blocks have nice touches like hanging baskets of flowers. Unlike many joints, the air conditioners are actually quiet.

Lakeshore Inn (250-763-4717, 877-657-5253; www.lakeshoreinn.com; 3756 Lakeshore Rd; r from $120; wi-fi) Located on an enticing stretch of lake just south of Pandosy Village and a beach, this 46-room motel is well maintained and features a pool right on the waterfront. Half the rooms have views.

Prestige Inn (250-860-7900, 877-737-8443; www.prestigeinn.com, 1675 Abbott St, r from $140; ) Another downtown option, this 66-room place has a great location across from the lake and park. There’s a thin veneer of luxury on a standard motel base and service is good. Rooms have high-speed internet and fridges.

TOP END

Luxury hotels are slated to join the condos north of downtown.

Hotel Eldorado (250-763-7500, 866-608-7500; www.eldoradokelowna.com; 500 Cook Rd; r $165-380; ) This historic lakeshore retreat south of Pandosy Village has 19 heritage rooms where you can bask in antique-filled luxury. A modern low-key wing has 30 more rooms and six rather opulent waterfront suites.

Eating

Good wine and good food are easily enjoyed here. Some places under Drinking (right) are also good for a meal.

Bean Scene (250-763-1814; 274 Bernard Ave; coffee $2; 6:30am-10pm). Neighbors fuel their gossipy morning buzz with a buzz from the excellent coffee at this local fave. Good muffins.

Out of Diva’s Closet & Cafe (250-860-3090; 1623 Pandosy St; snacks $3; 9am-6pm Mon-Sat; wi-fi) Quirky and goofy describe this internet café, coffee and tea bar, juice joint and used-clothing bazaar.

Siam Orchid (250-860-5600; 279 Bernard Ave; meals from $8; 11am-2pm Mon-Fri) Food service trucks don’t stop often in front of this charmer of a Thai restaurant downtown. Rather, it’s the owners bringing back spices and other flavors from their native land that gives the food here its superb punch.

Christopher’s (250-861-3464; 242 Lawrence Ave; mains $10-20; 4pm-late) Many come for the steaks, but those really in the know grace this trendy spot for its top-notch seafood. Salmon and shellfish always feature on the menu, which also has salads and pasta. The hipster lounge often stays open late.

La Bussola (250-763-3110; 1451 Ellis St; mains from $12; 5-10pm Mon-Sat) The 20 dishes made from fresh pasta here are works of art worthy of the Cultural District. The menu spans the boot, from pesto to red sauce, veal to seafood. Dine on the flower-bedecked sidewalk tables or in the smart dining room.

Fresco (250-868-8805; www.frescorestaurant.net; 1560 Water St; mains from $20; 5-10pm Tue-Sat) The Okanagan Valley’s finest restaurant is also one of BC’s best. Noted chef Rod Butters notes the provenance of the mostly local produce used in the dishes that are divided between вЂ˜land’ and вЂ˜sea’ on the daily menu. Book well ahead.

The Farmers’ market (250-878-5029; cnr Springfield Rd & Dilworth Dr off Hwy 97; 8am-1pm Wed & Sat, 4-8pm Thu Apr-Oct) has over 150 vendors, including many with prepared foods.

Drinking

Sturgeon Hall (250-860-4664; 1481 Water St) Home to the fanatical fans of the Kelowna Rockets hockey team, the Sturgeon’s twin levels drip with puckish memorabilia. Outside there are sidewalk tables, inside there are TVs blaring with matches worldwide. The burgers are a hat trick on a bun.

Rose’s Waterfront Pub (250-860-1141; Grand Okanagan Hotel; 1352 Water St) It’s part of the upscale end of the waterfront, but the punters here get downright downscale after a few shots on the always hopping lakeside terrace.

Kelly O’Bryan’s (250-861-1338; 262 Bernard Ave) Decks with water views, well-poured pints, oddly kilt-clad staff and lots of gooey and cheesy bar chow make this a prime quaffing spot.

Waterfront Wines (250-979-1222; 1180 Sunset; 5-11pm Tue-Sat) In the heart of condoland, this bistro is the place to sample a flight of wines in a high-tone setting that will soon have you proclaiming вЂ˜amusingly oaky’; with the best of them. Small plates of creative fare (from $10) soak up the excess.

Entertainment

Downtown Kelowna boasts several ever-changing clubs, mostly at the west end of Leon and Lawrence Aves.

Flashbacks Nite Club (250-861-3039; 1268 Ellis St; 7pm-late Wed-Sun) In a former cigar factory, Flashbacks has touring bands and frequent theme nights inspired by foam and swimsuits. Cover charges vary.

Gotcha (250-860-0800; 238 Leon Ave; 7pm-late Tue-Sat) Regularly the most popular member of its club of neighboring clubs. There are many floors of dancing; cover charges vary.

Kelowna Rockets (250-860-7825; www.kelownarockets.com; tickets from $18) is the much beloved local WHL hockey team, who play in the flashy 6000-seat Prospera Place Arena (250-979-0888; Water St & Cawston Ave).

Enjoy uplifting old chestnuts such as Hello Dolly while chowing down on upscale fare at the Kelowna Actors Studio (250-862-2867; www.kelownaactorsstudio.com; 1379 Ellis St; tickets from $60), a dinner theater where The Fantastics never seems to close.

Free summer nighttime concerts, featuring everything from rock to Glenn Miller, take place in Kerry Park on Friday and Saturday and on Waterfront Park’s Island Stage on Wednesday.

Other performance venues:



Kelowna Community Theatre (250-762-2471; 1375 Water St) Live music and theatre.

Rotary Centre for the Performing Arts (250-717-5304, tickets 250-763-1849; 421 Cawston Ave) Galleries, a theatre, cafГ©, craft workshops and live classical music.



Getting There & Away

Kelowna airport (YLW; 250-765-5125; www.kelownaairport.com) is a busy place. Westjet (www.westjet.com) serves Vancouver, Victoria, Edmonton, Calgary and Toronto. Air Canada Jazz (www.aircanada.com) serves Vancouver and Calgary. Horizon Air (www.alaskaair.com) serves Seattle. The airport is a long 20km north of the center on Hwy 97.

Greyhound Canada (800-661-8747; www.grey hound.ca; 2366 Leckie Rd) stops north of the downtown area, off Hwy 97. Buses travel to other points in the Okanagan Valley such as Osoyoos ($23, 2ВЅ hours, two daily), as well as Kamloops ($28, three hours, three daily), Vancouver ($62, six hours, six daily) and Calgary ($87, 10 hours, one daily). City bus 10 makes the run from Queensway station, downtown (every 30 minutes between 6:30am and 9:45pm).

Getting Around

TO/FROM THE AIRPORT

Kelowna Airporter Shuttle (250-765-0182; one-way $11-15 per person) meets most flights; a one-way taxi fare is $20 to $35.

BUS

Kelowna Regional Transit System (250-860-8121; www.busonline.ca) has three zones for bus travel, and the one-way fare in the central zone is $1.75. A day pass for all three zones costs $5. All the downtown buses pass through Queensway station, on Queensway Ave between Pandosy and Ellis Sts.

CAR & TAXI

Major car rental companies at Kelowna airport include Budget, Enterprise, Hertz and National. Taxi companies include Kelowna Cabs (250-762-4444, 250-762-2222).


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BIG WHITE SKI RESORT

Perfect powder is the big deal at Big White Ski Resort (250-765-8888, 800-663-2772, snow report 250-765-7669; www.bigwhite.com; one-day lift passes adult/child $68/33), located 55km east of Kelowna off Hwy 33. With a vertical drop of 777m, it features 840 hectares of runs that offer excellent downhill and backcountry skiing, while deep gullies make for killer snowboarding. Because of Big White’s isolation, most people stay up here. The resort includes numerous restaurants, bars, hotels, condos, rental homes and a hostel. Contact the resort for details.


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VERNON

pop 37,000

The Okanagan glitz starts to fade before you reach Vernon. Maybe it’s the weather. Winters have more of the traditional inland BC bite and wineries are few. But that doesn’t mean the area is without its charms. The orchard-scented valley is surrounded by three lakes: Kalamalka, Okanagan and Swan, which attract fun-seekers all summer long. Downtown Vernon has some good eateries and is enlivened by over 30 wall murals ranging from schmaltzy to artistic.

Orientation & Information

Downtown Vernon is spilt by Hwy 97 (32nd St). Most of the shops are found along 30th Ave (known as Main St). Confusingly, 30th Ave is intersected by 30th St in the middle of downtown, so mind your streets and avenues.



Bookland (250-545-1885; 3400 30th Ave) Topo maps, travel guides and books on activities in the Okanagan Valley and BC. Excellent selection of local works, magazines and newspapers.

Vernon Public Library (250-542-7610; 3001 32nd Ave; 10am-5:30pm Mon & Thu-Sat, 10am-4pm Tue & Wed) Free access; next to the Vernon Museum.

Visitor Centre Main office (250-545-3016, 800-665-0795; www.vernontourism.com; 701 Hwy 97 S; 8:30am-6pm May-Oct, 10am-4pm Nov-Apr); North of town (250-542-1415; 6326 Hwy 97 N; 8:30am-6pm May-Oct) The main office is 2km south of the town centre; the other is about 5km north of town.



Sights & Activities

The beautiful 9-sq-km Kalamalka Lake Provincial Park (250-545-1560; www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks) south of town lies on the eastern side of this warm, shallow lake. The park offers great swimming at Jade and Kalamalka beaches, good fishing and a network of mountain biking and hiking trails. There’s also excellent rock climbing at Cougar Canyon.

Ellison Provincial Park, 16km southwest of Vernon on Okanagan Lake, is western Canada’s only freshwater marine park; scuba diving is popular here and gear can be rented from Innerspace Watersports (250-549-2040; 3103 32nd St). Ellison is also known for its world-class rock climbing. To get to Ellison from downtown, go west on 25th Ave, which soon becomes Okanagan Landing Rd. Follow that and look for signs to the park.

Two fun attractions make hay from local agriculture. Davison Orchards (250-549-3266; 3111 Davison Rd; daylight hrs May-Oct) has tractor rides, homemade ice cream, fresh apple juice, winsome barnyard animals and more. Next door, Planet Bee (250-542-8088; 5011 Bella Vista Rd; admission free; daylight hrs May-Oct) is a working honey farm where you can learn all the sweet secrets of the nectar and see a working hive up close. Follow 25th Ave west, turn north briefly on 41st St, then go west on Bella Vista Rd and watch for signs.

Sleeping

Accommodations are available in all price ranges. The visitor centers have information on local B&Bs.

Ellison Provincial Park (800-689-9025, information only 250-494-6500; www.discovercamping.ca; campsites $17; Apr-Oct) Some 16km southwest of Vernon on Okanagan Landing Rd, this is a great place. The 71 campsites fill up early, so reserve.

Tiki Village Motel (250-503-5566, 800-661-8454; www.tikivillagevernon.com; 2408 34th St; r $70-150; ) Hide your brother’s toy Game Boy in the pool wall and he’ll never find it again. Another ode to the glory days of concrete blocks, the Tiki has suitably expansive plantings and 30 polychromatic rooms.

Schell Motel (250-545-1351, 888-772-4355; www.schellmotel.ca; 2810 35th St; r $75-135; ) A vision of mod concrete blocks, this immaculate indie motel screams вЂ˜pride of ownership’; Schell has a welcoming pool and barbecue. The 32 rooms are central but out of range of the 32nd St roar.

Travelodge Vernon (250-545-2161, 800-255-3050; www.vernontravelodge.net; 3000 28th Ave; r $80-100; wi-fi) There’s nothing special about this two-story 40-unit motel except that it’s very well run. The location is great and you can soak away the day’s exertions in the pool.

Eating

Talkin Donkey (250-545-2286; 3923 32nd St; coffee $2; 7am-11pm Mon-Sat; wi-fi) Spend as much as you can at this local institution because all proceeds go right to charity – mostly international human-rights causes. Enjoy the excellent fair trade coffee and tasty treats with the gregarious regulars; tap your Birkenstock-clad toes to occasional live folk music.

DiVino’s Ristorante Italiano (250-549-3463; 3224 30th Ave; mains $8-12; 5-9pm Tue-Sat) Under the gaze of shelf-mounted statuary, centrally located DiVino’s serves up addictive focaccia fritters and much more. After your own garlic-fest, feast on the sublime tiramisu.

The evening Vernon Farmers’ market (250-546-6267; 2200 58th Ave; 4-8pm Fri) adds some much-needed class to the Wal-Mart parking lot. There are also morning markets (cnr Hwy 97 & 43rd Ave; 8am-noon Mon &Thu).

More good picnic fare can be found at Nature’s Fare (250-260-1117; 30th Ave; 9am-6pm Mon-Sat), which has lots of local produce plus prepared foods like organic sandwiches.

Getting There & Around

Greyhound Canada (800-661-8747; www.greyhound.ca; 3102 30th St at 31st Ave) has service to Kelowna ($13, one hour, seven daily) serves Kamloops ($21, two hours, two daily), Vancouver ($68, 7ВЅ hours, three daily) and Calgary ($75, nine hours, one daily).

Vernon Regional Transit System (250-545-7221; fares $2) buses leave downtown from the bus stop at 31st St and 30th Ave. For Kalamalka Lake, catch bus 1 or 6; for Okanagan Lake, bus 7.


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NORTH OF VERNON

Attractions are few in this area, which is more notable for its major highway connections. Just north of Vernon, Hwy 97 heads northwest to Kamloops (and on to Prince George), while Hwy 97A continues northeast to Sicamous and Hwy 1. From Sicamous, this major artery can take you west to Shuswap Lake, Salmon Arm and Kamloops, and east to Revelstoke and the Rockies.

Silver Star

Classic inland BC dry powder makes Silver Star (250-542-0224, 800-663-4431, snow report 250-542-1745; www.silverstar.com; one-day lift ticket adult/child $65/33) a very popular ski resort. The 112 runs have a vertical drop of 760m; snowboarders enjoy a half-pipe and a terrain park. In June the lifts haul mountain bikers and hikers up to the lofty green vistas.

All manner of accommodations can be reserved through the resort. Samesun Lodge (250-545-8933, 877-562-2783; www.samesun.com; 9898 Pinnacles Rd; dm/d $25/60; ) runs a very popular and almost posh backpacker hotel.

To reach Silver Star, take 48th Ave off Hwy 97. The resort is 20km northeast of Vernon.

Shuswap Region

Rorschach-test-like Shuswap Lake anchors a somewhat bland but pleasing region of green, wooded hills, farms and two small towns, Sicamous and Salmon Arm. The latter has the area’s main Visitor Centre (250-832-2230, 877-725-6667; www.shuswap.bc.ca; 200 Hwy 1; 9am-7pm May-Aug, 9am-5pm Mon-Fri Sep-Apr).

The area is home to several lake-based provincial parks and is a popular destination for families fighting over the minivan DVD player…er, looking for outdoor fun. The main attraction, though, is the annual spawning of sockeye salmon at Roderick Haig-Brown Provincial Park (250-851-3000; www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks), just off the highway via Squilax. This 1059-hectare park protects both sides of the Adams River between Shuswap Lake and Adams Lake, a natural bottleneck for the bright-red sockeye when they run upriver every October. The fish population peaks every four years, when as many as four million fish crowd the Adams’ shallow riverbeds – the next big spawn is due in 2010.

Puttering about the lake on a houseboat is a convivial way to explore the Shuswap, especially during the height of summer, when the lake fills with people fighting over the DVD player…er, enjoying nature. Most rent by the week (from $2000) and can sleep upward of 10 people. Contact the visitor center for listings of houseboat operators.


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THE KOOTENAYS & THE ROCKIES

Ahhhh. You just can’t help saying it as you ponder the plethora of snow-covered peaks in the Kootenay Region of BC. This is the kind of place that makes you glad you came. Deep river valleys cleaved by white-water rivers, impossible sheer rock faces, alpine meadows, and a sawtooth of white-dappled mountains stretching across the horizon inspire awe, action or mere contemplation.

Coming from the west, the mountain majesty builds as if choreographed from above. The roughly parallel ranges of the Monashees and the Selkirks striate the West Kootenays with the Arrow lakes adding texture. Appealing towns like Revelstoke and Nelson nestle against the mountains and are centers of year-round outdoor fun. The East Kootenays cover the Purcell Mountain region below Golden, taking in Radium Hot Springs and delightful Fernie. The Rockies climb high in the sky to the border with Alberta.

BC’s Rocky Mountains parks (Mt Revelstoke, Glacier, Yoho and Kootenay) don’t have the – no pun intended – high profile of Banff and Jasper national parks over the border, but for many that’s an advantage. Each has its own spectacular qualities, often relatively unexploited by the Banff-bound hordes.

Across this richly textured region, look for grizzly and black bear, elk, moose, deer, beaver, mountain goats and much more. Pause to make your own discoveries.


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REVELSTOKE

pop 8000

Gateway to serious mountains, Revelstoke doesn’t need to toot its own horn – the ceaseless procession of trains through the center does all the tooting anyone needs.

Built as an important point on the Canadian Pacific transcontinental railroad which first linked Canada, Revelstoke echoes not just with whistles but with history. The compact center is lined with heritage buildings yet it’s not a museum piece; there’s a vibrant local arts community and most locals take full advantage of all the boundless opportunities for hiking, kayaking and, most of all, skiing. It’s more than worth a long pause as you pass on Hwy 1.

Orientation & Information

Revelstoke is south of Hwy 1. Victoria Rd runs parallel to the very busy railway tracks that run along the northeastern end of town. The main streets include 1st St and Mackenzie Ave.

The main Visitor Centre (250-837-5345, 800-487-1493; www.seerevelstoke.com; 206 Campbell Ave; 8:30am-4:30pm Mon-Fri) is open year-round. But during summer, go to the larger seasonal Visitor Centre (110 Mackenzie Ave; 8:30am-8pm May-Sep). It has parking and internet access ($1 per 10 minutes).



A Parks Canada Regional Office (250-837-7500; revglacier.reception@pc.gc.ca; 301 3rd St; 8am-4:30pm Mon-Fri) has in-depth info about nearby Mt Revelstoke and Glacier National Parks.

Sights

Grizzly Plaza, between Mackenzie and Orton Aves, is a pedestrian precinct and the heart of downtown, where free live-music performances take place in the evenings throughout July and August. While outdoor activities are Revelstoke’s real draw card, there is also a pair of local museums you can check out.

Revelstoke Railway Museum (250-837-6060, 877-837-6060; www.railwaymuseum.com; 719 Track St W; adult/child $6/3.50; 9am-8pm summer, 9am-5pm Mon-Fri winter), in an attractive building across the tracks from the town center, contains restored steam locomotives, including one of the largest steam engines ever used on Canadian Pacific Railway lines. Photographs and artifacts document the construction of the CPR, which was instrumental – if not essential – in linking eastern and western Canada.

Revelstoke Museum (250-837-3067; 315 1st St; adult/child $2.50/1; 10am-5pm Mon-Sat summer, 1-4pm Mon-Fri winter) holds a permanent collection of furniture and historical odds and ends, including mining, logging and railway artifacts that date back to the town’s establishment in the 1880s. Also look for the many historical plaques mounted on buildings around town.

Activities

Sandwiched in between the vast but until now relatively unknown Selkirk and Monashee mountain ranges, Revelstoke draws serious snow buffs looking for vast landscapes of crowd-free powder. It’s home to several heli-skiing operations including Mica Heli Guides (877-837-6191; www.micaheli.com; 122 Mackenzie Ave), where you do pay for this ostentatious activity: three-day tours start at $4800.

Just 6km southeast of town, the Powder Springs ski area has long been a local favorite for its long, steep runs. No longer low-key, it has – with the help of zillions from investors – morphed into the Revelstoke Mountain Resort (888-837-2188; www.discoverrevelstoke.com), which plans to turn the mountain into another high-end ski playground – literally. Once developed (by 2009 according to plans), lift-serviced runs will boast 1829m (6000ft) drops.

For cross-country skiing, head to the Mt MacPherson Ski Area, 7km south of town on Hwy 23. You’ll pay under $10 to use the 22km of groomed trails.

All that white snow turns into white water come spring and rafting is big. Apex Rafting Co (250-837-6376, 888-232-6666; www.apexrafting.com; 112 1st St E; adult/child $80/65) runs kid-friendly two-hour guided trips on the Illecillewaet River in spring and summer. Natural Escapes Kayaking (250-837-7883; www.naturalescapes.ca) leads tours, offers lessons and rent kayaks ($25 for two hours).

Mountain biking is huge here, as it is across the region. Pick up a copy of the Biking Trail Map from the visitor center or Skookum Cycle & Ski (250-814-0090; 118 Mackenzie Ave), where you can rent bikes (from $15 for two hours).

Sleeping

Revelstoke has a good selection of places to stay. Only truck-spotters will gravitate to those out on Hwy 1. Several motels and cute B&Bs (the visitor center has lists) are right in the center.

Blanket Creek Provincial Park (800-689-9025; www.discovercamping.ca; campsites $14) This park, 25km south of Revelstoke along Hwy 23, includes over 60 campsites with flush toilets and running water. There’s a playground and a waterfall is nearby.

SameSun Budget Lodge (250-837-4050, 877-562-2783; www.samesun.ca; 400 2nd St W; dm/d from $24/60; wi-fi) Ramble though the numerous rooms in this perennial backpacker favorite. The 80 beds are often full, so book ahead. Expanded patios fill with a jovial international crowd.

Alpine Inn & Suites (250-837-2116, 800-876-8206; www.alpineinnrevelstoke.com; 1001 W 2nd St; r $55-100; wi-fi) In a quiet but central spot. You can join the road-tripping utility crews who like the 42 clean and good-value rooms here. All have fridges and there’s a small common indoor hot tub.

Revelstoke Lodge (250-837-2181; 888-559-1979; www.revelstokelodge.com; 601 1st St W; r $60-120; wi-fi). вЂ˜Your mom called and said to stay here,’ the sign out front read one day, and that sums up the spirit of this salmon-colored, vintage two-story concrete block wonder. The 42 rooms are smallish but comfy; train-spotters will never leave.

Swiss Chalet Motel (250-837-4650, 888-272-4538; www.swisschaletmotel.com; 1101 Victoria Rd; r from $70; wi-fi) It’s a short walk to the center from this cheery family-run hotel, which includes an especially generous continental breakfast (one of the muffins here would make a dozen at many chains). The 22 rooms have fridges.

Eating & Drinking

Modern Bakeshop & CafГ© (250-837-6886; 212 Mackenzie Ave; mains from $5; 7am-5pm Mon-Sat) Try a blueberry-lemon Danish or a croque-monsieur (toasted ham and cheese sandwich) for a taste of Europe at this cute cafГ©. Or screw the Old World and wolf down the yummy banana cream pie while using the wi-fi.

Grizzly Sports Bar & Grill (250-814-1002; 314 1st St W; mains $8-10; noon-late) Locally brewed Mt Begbie beers are on tap at this classic sports bar. The cream ale is redolent with honey. (And the pub grub’s good too.)

Claudio’s (250-837-6743; 206 Mackenzie Ave; mains $8-20; 11am-11pm) The two Ps, pasta and pizza, delight the masses at this old-fashioned but oh-so-popular storefront. Tables outside are in demand in summer; come late to avoid the family rush.

Woolsey Creek (250-837-5500; 604 2nd St W; mains $10-20; 8am-10pm) The best for many miles around, the food here is the artistic result of two women, Sylvie and Sophie, and their passion for inventive fare. There are global influences across the menu (you won’t go wrong with the chorizo pasta) and a fine wine list. Lots of starters encourage sharing and lingering on the large patio.

The Farmers’ market (8am-1pm Sat) sprawls across Grizzly Sq.

Getting There & Away

Greyhound Canada (800-661-8747; www.greyhound.ca; 1899 Fraser Dr) is west of town, just off Hwy 1. It has storage lockers. Buses go east to Calgary ($55, six hours, four daily) via Banff, west to Vancouver ($83, nine to 10 hours, four daily) via Kamloops or Kelowna.


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MT REVELSTOKE NATIONAL PARK

Grand in beauty if not in size (only 260 sq km), this national park just northeast of its namesake town is a vision of peaks and valleys – many all-but-untrod.

From the 2223m summit of Mt Revelstoke, the views of the mountains and the Columbia River valley are excellent. To ascend here, take the 26km Meadows in the Sky Parkway, 1.5km east of Revelstoke off the Trans-Canada Hwy. Open after the thaw (usually June to September), this paved road winds through lush cedar forests and alpine meadows and ends at Balsam Lake, within 2km of the peak. From here walk to the top or take the free shuttle, which runs from 10am to 4pm daily.

Easily accessible, Skunk Cabbage Trail, 28km east of Revelstoke on Hwy 1, is a 1.2km boardwalk along the Illecillewaet River. Another 4km east, the Giant Cedars Boardwalk winds a 500m course around a grove of huge old-growth cedars.

There are several good hiking trails from the summit. You can camp only in designated backcountry campsites, and you must have a $10 Wilderness Pass camping permit (in addition to your park pass), which, along with lots of useful information, is available from Parks Canada in Revelstoke or from the Rogers Pass Centre inside Glacier National Park (right). Admission to both Mt Revelstoke and Glacier national parks (the two are administered jointly) is adult/child $7/3.50 per day.


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GLACIER NATIONAL PARK

To be really accurate, this 1350-sq-km park should be called 430 Glaciers National Park; the annual snowfall here can be as much as 23m. Because of the sheer mountain slopes, this is one of the world’s most active avalanche areas. For this reason, skiing, caving and mountaineering are regulated; you must register with park wardens before venturing into the backcountry. Call for a daily avalanche report (250-837-6867) in season. Admission to this and Mt Revelstoke National Park (the two are administered jointly) is adult/child $7/3.50 per day.



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CHECK YOUR WATCH

It is a constant source of confusion that the East Kootenays lie in the Mountain Time Zone along with Alberta – unlike the rest of BC, which falls within the Pacific Time Zone. If you’re heading west on Hwy 1 from Golden, the time changes at the east gate of Glacier National Park. As you travel west on Hwy 3, the time changes between Cranbrook and Creston. Mountain Time is always an hour ahead of Pacific Time. So when it’s noon in Golden and Cranbrook, it’s 11am in Glacier National Park and Creston.





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Whether you travel by car, bus, trail or bicycle (more power to you), Rogers will likely rank as one of the most beautiful mountain passes you’ll ever traverse. Be sure to pause at the Hemlock Grove Trail, 54km west of Revelstoke, where a 400m boardwalk winds through an ancient hemlock rain forest.

Spend some time at the informative Rogers Pass Centre (250-814-5233; 8am-7pm summer, 9am-5pm spring & fall, 9am-7pm winter), 72km east of Revelstoke. The center shows films about the park and organizes guided walks in summer. As a bonus, there’s an excellent bookstore.

Across from the center, the 50-room Glacier Park Lodge (250-837-2126; www.glacierparklodge.ca; r $120-150; ) has its own gift shop.

Not far from here are the park’s two campgrounds: Illecillewaet & Loop Brook ($21 per campsite; Jul-Sep). Both have running water and flush toilets.


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GOLDEN

pop 4400

Golden is well situated for the national parks – there are six nearby – and for more immediate pleasures, like white-water rafting – the Kicking Horse River converges with the Columbia here. Don’t just breeze past the strip of franchised yuck on Hwy 1 or you’ll miss the tidy little town center right across the tracks.

Orientation & Information

Expect delays for years to come on Hwy 1 east of Golden as the road is reconstructed from scratch. The center of town lies 2km south of the highway.

Bizarrely, the shiny Visitor Centre (250-344-7711; 9am-6pm), 1km east on Hwy 1 from the Hwy 95 turn-off into Golden, mostly ignores the immediate region. For local info, visit the Golden Chamber of Commerce (250-344-7125, 800-622-4653; www.goldenchamber.bc.ca; 500 10th Ave North; 9am-5pm daily Jul & Aug, Mon-Fri Sep-Jun).



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WORTH A STOP: CANYON HOT SPRINGS

Around 35km east of Revelstoke on Hwy 1, Canyon Hot Springs (250-837-2420; www.canyonhotsprings.com; day pass adult/child $10.50/9.50; 9am-9pm May, Jun & Sep, 9am-10pm Jul & Aug) is a pause that refreshes. First dip into the hot pool (42В°C), then plunge into the cooler swimming pool (32В°C). Spend the night amidst the trees at the 200 campsites (from $30) or in one of the 16 log cabins (from $105).





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Activities

Golden is the center for white-water rafting trips on the turbulent and chilly Kicking Horse River. Powerful Class 3 and 4 rapids and breathtaking scenery along the sheer walls of the Kicking Horse Valley make this rafting experience one of North America’s best.

Full-day trips on the river average about $100; half-day trips are about $65. Local operators include Glacier Raft Company (250-344-6521; www.glacierraft.com) and Alpine Rafting (250-344-6778, 888-599-5299; www.alpinerafting.com).

Over 60% of the ski runs at Kicking Horse Mountain Resort (250-439-5400, 866-754-5425; www.kickinghorseresort.com; one-day lift pass adult/child from $45/21) are rated Advanced or Expert. With 1260 vertical meters and a snowy position between the Rockies and the Purcells, the resort’s popularity grows each year. It’s 14km from Golden on Kicking Horse Trail.

Sleeping & Eating

There are scores of chain motels along Hwy 1. Check with the Chamber of Commerce for B&Bs.

Sander Lake Campground (250-344-6517; www.rockies.net/~bsander; campsites from $15) This campground, 12km southwest of Golden off Hwy 95, has a bucolic location amid trees and hills. There are 27 sites and three log cabins ($75).

Packers Place (250-344-5941; packerinn@cablerocket.com; 429 9th Ave; r $40-50; ) A bustling bar and restaurant with tables overlooking the river, Packers has simple rooms where the roar of the river – and not the bands below – may lull you to sleep.

Mary’s Motel (250-344-7111, 866-234-6279; www.marysmotel.com; 603 8th Ave N; r $80-120; wi-fi) In town right on the river, Mary’s has 81 rooms spread across several buildings. There are more choices nearby.

Kicking Horse Grill (250-344-2330; 1105 9th St S; mains $20-30; 5-9pm) Dishes at this creative log cabin change depending on the season. Try for a table outside under the huge tree.

Getting There & Away

Greyhound Canada (800-661-8747; www.greyhound.ca; Husky TravelCentre,1050 Trans-Canada Hwy) serves Vancouver ($105, 11 to 13 hours, four daily) and Calgary ($45, four hours, four daily) via Banff.


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YOHO NATIONAL PARK

Fed by glaciers, the ice-blue Kicking Horse River plows through the valley of the same name. The surging waters are an apt image for this dramatic national park, home to looming peaks, pounding waterfalls, glacial lakes and patches of pretty meadows.

Although the smallest (1310 sq km) of the four national parks in the Rockies, Yoho National Park (250-343-6783; www.pc.gc.ca/yoho; adult/child $9/4.50) is a diamond in the (very) rough. This wilderness is the real deal; it’s some of the continent’s least tarnished.

Don’t go past Field without stopping. Right off Hwy 1, this historic railroad town has a dramatic overlook of the river. It’s home to the Yoho National Park Information Centre (250-343-6783; 9am-4pm Sep-Apr, 9am-5pm May & Jun, 9am-7pm Jul & Aug). Pick up the free Backcountry Guide; its map and trail descriptions give an excellent overview for exploring the park. Parks Canada rangers can advise on itineraries and conditions. Alberta Tourism staffs a desk here in summer for those heading east.

The town is a quaint yet unfussy place. Many of its buildings date from the early days of the railways, when it was the Canadian Pacific Railway’s headquarters for exploration and, later, for strategic planning when engineers were trying to solve the problem of moving trains over the Kicking Horse Pass (see the results from a Hwy 1 lookout 8km east of Field).

Ask at the info center for a list of Field’s 20 and counting B&Bs. Fireweed Hostel (250-343-6999, 877-343-6999; www.fireweedhostel.com; 313 Stephen Ave; dm $25-35, r $100-150; ) has four spotless rooms. Across the street, the legendary Truffle Pigs Cafe (250-343-6462; 318 Stephen Ave; mains $6-20; 8am-8:30pm Tue-Sun) combines a gourmet grocery, deli and bistro. Daily specials feature creative dishes prepared in the carrot-sized open kitchen.

Greyhound buses stop at the info center on their trips west to Golden ($13, 1ВЅ hours, three daily) and beyond and east to Banff ($18, one hour, three daily).

Perched high in the mountains east of Field, Lake O’Hara is worth the significant hassle involved in reaching this place, an encapsulation of the whole Rockies. Compact wooded hillsides, alpine meadows, snow-covered passes, mountain vistas and glaciers are all wrapped around the stunning lake. A basic day trip is worthwhile, but stay overnight in the backcountry and you’ll be able to access many more trails, some quite difficult, all quite spectacular. The Alpine Circuit (12km) has a bit of everything.

To reach the lake, you can take the shuttle bus (adult/child $15/7.50; mid-Jun-early Oct) from the Lake O’Hara parking lot, 15km east of Field on Hwy 1. A quota system governs bus access to the lake and limits permits for the 30 backcountry campsites. You can freely walk the 11km from the parking area, but no bikes are allowed. The area around Lake O’Hara usually remains snow-covered or very muddy until mid-July.

Make reservations for the bus trip (250-343-6433) or for camping (backcountry permit adult $10) up to three months in advance. Given the popularity of Lake O’Hara, reservations are basically mandatory (unless you want to walk). However, if you don’t have advance reservations, six day-use seats on the bus and three to five campsites are set aside for вЂ˜standby’ users. To try to snare these, call 250-343-6433 at 8am the day before.

Should you desire something fairly posh at Lake O’Hara, try Lake O’Hara Lodge (250-343-6418; www.lakeohara.com; r per person $150-250). Guests have been slack-jawed here for over 80 years. The only place to stay at the lake tent-free, the lodge is luxurious in a rustic way. Its environmental practices are lauded.

East of Field on Hwy 1 is the Takakkaw Falls road (late-Jun-early Oct). At 254m, Takakkaw is one of the highest waterfalls in Canada. From here Iceline, a 20km hiking loop, passes many glaciers and spectacular scenery.

This World Heritage site protects the amazing Cambrian-age fossil beds on Mt Stephen and Mt Field. These 515-million-year-old fossils preserve the remains of marine creatures that were some of the earliest forms of life on earth. You can only get to the fossil beds by guided hikes, which are led by naturalists from the Yoho-Burgess Shale Foundation (800-343-3006; www.burgess-shale.bc.ca; tours from $50). Reservations are essential.

Near the south gate of the park, you can reach pretty Wapta Falls via a 2.4km trail. The easy walk takes about 45 minutes each way.

The three campgrounds within Yoho all close from October to April. Only the Kicking Horse Campground (campsites $26) has showers, making its 92 sites the most popular. Nearby, right at the turnoff to Yoho Valley Rd, the quieter Monarch Campground (campsites $17) offers 46 basic sites. Appealing Takakkaw Falls Campground (campsites $17), 13km along the gravel Yoho Valley Rd, has 35 walk-in (200m) campsites for tents only.

The isolated HI-Yoho National Park (Whiskey Jack Hostel; 403-670-7580, 866-762-4122; www.hihostels.ca; dm $22-26; Jul-Sep) offers 27 dorm-style beds. It’s 13km off Hwy 1 on Yoho Valley Rd, just before the Takakkaw Falls Campground and close to the falls itself.


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MT ASSINIBOINE PROVINCIAL PARK

Between Kootenay and Banff national parks lies this lesser-known and smaller (39-sq-km) provincial park (www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks), part of the Rockies’ Unesco World Heritage site. The pointed peak of Mt Assiniboine (3618m) – often referred to as Canada’s Matterhorn – and its near neighbors have become a magnet for experienced rock climbers and mountaineers. Backcountry hikers revel in its meadows and glaciers.

The park’s main focus is crystal-clear Lake Magog, which is reachable via a 27km trek from Banff National Park. At the lake there’s the commercially operated Mt Assiniboine Lodge (403-678-2883; www.canadianrockies.net/assiniboine/; r per person from $230), a campground (campsites $5) and some huts (per person $15), which may be reserved through the lodge. There’s backcountry camping in other parts of the park.


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KOOTENAY NATIONAL PARK

Shaped like a lightening bolt, Kootenay National Park (250-347-9505; www.pc.gc.ca/kootenay; adult/child $9/4.50) is centered on a long, wide tree-covered valley shadowed by cold, grey peaks. Encompassing 1406 sq km, Kootenay has a more moderate climate than the other Rocky Mountains parks and, in the southern regions especially, summers can be hot and dry (which is a factor in the frequent fires). It’s the only national park in Canada to contain both glaciers and cacti. From BC you can create a fine driving loop via Kootenay and Yoho national parks. See below for details on the main park visitor center.

Many sights such as Marble Canyon were closed after a disastrous 2003 fire. Check to see when these conditions will change. The short interpretive Fireweed Trail loops through the forest near the continental divide.

Some 2km further south on the main road is a short, easy trail to ochre pools known as the Paint Pots. Panels describe both the mining history of this rusty earth and its past importance to Aboriginal people.

Learn how the park’s appearance has changed over time at the Kootenay Valley Viewpoint where informative panels vie with the view. Just 3km south, Olive Lake makes a perfect picnic or rest stop. A lakeside interpretive trail describes some of the visitors who’ve come before you.


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RADIUM HOT SPRINGS

Lying just outside the southwest corner of Kootenay National Park, Radium Hot Springs is a major gateway to the whole Rocky Mountains national park area. The Kootenay National Park & Radium Hot Springs Visitor Centre (250-347-9331, 800-347-9704; www.radiumhotsprings.com; 7556 Main St E/Hwy 93/95; 9am-7pm May-Sep, 9am-5pm Oct-Apr) has regional info and is staffed with Parks Canada rangers.

Radium boasts a large resident population of bighorn sheep, which often wander through town, but the big attraction is the hot springs (250-347-9485; adult/child $7/6; 9am-11pm mid-May-early Oct, noon-9pm rest of yr), 3km north of town. The hot springs pools are quite modern and can get very busy in summer. The water comes from the ground at 44В°C, enters the first pool at 39В°C and hits the final one at 29В°C.

Radium glows with lodging – some 30 motels at last count. Highly recommended is Misty River Lodge B&B (250-347-9912; www.mistyriverlodge.bc.ca; 5036 Hwy 93; dm from $21, r $55-120) Right outside the park gate, this five-room B&B has owners who are enthusiastic about the parks and ready to share their knowledge with guests. Bicyclists are welcomed.


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RADIUM HOT SPRINGS TO FERNIE

South from Radium Hot Springs, Hwy 93/95 follows the wide Columbia River valley between the Purcell and Rocky Mountains. It’s not especially interesting, unless you’re into the area’s industry (building ski resorts), agriculture (golf courses) or wild game (condo buyers).

At Skookumchuk, 90km south of Radium Hot Springs, a gravel road heads eastwards to Top of the World Provincial Park (250-422-4200; www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks), which has hiking trails and backcountry camping ($5). The highlight is a 6km hike or bike-ride from the end of the road: the simply named Fish Lake, which is filled with just that.

South of Skookumchuk, the road forks. Go left and after 31km you’ll reach Hwy 3 for Fernie. Go left on Hwy 95A and you’ll come to Fort Steele Heritage Town (250-426-7342; www.fortsteele.bc.ca; adult/child summer $13/2, less other times; 9:30am-6pm Jul & Aug, 9:30am-5pm Apr-Jun & Oct, 10am-4pm Nov-Mar), a tourist favorite that’s an order of magnitude less irritating than many of these places. Fudge come-ons are minimal and you can actually get a sense of the area’s pioneer history.

From here it’s 95km to Fernie along Hwys 93 and 3.


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FERNIE

pop 5300

Surrounded by mountains on four sides – that’s the sheer Lizard Range you see looking west – Fernie defines cool. Once devoted solely to lumber and coal, the town has used its sensational setting to branch out. Skiers love the over 800cm of dry powder that annually hits the runs easily seen from town. In summer this same dramatic setting lures scores of hikers and mountain bikers. But despite the town’s discovery by pleasure-seekers, it still retains a down-to-earth vibe, best felt in the cafés, bars, shops and galleries of the historic center.

Orientation & Information

Downtown Fernie lies three blocks south of Hwy 3/7th Ave. Many shops and services can be found on Victoria/2nd Ave in the center.



Fernie Heritage Library (250-423-4458; 492 3rd Ave; 11am-8pm Tue-Fri, noon-5pm Sat, also Sun Nov-Mar) In the 1907 Post Office & Customs House. Free internet access.

Polar Peek Books (250-423-3736; 592 2nd Ave) An eclectic mix of books with a good section of local interest. Great recommendations.

Visitor Centre (250-423-6868; www.ferniechamber.com; 102 Commerce Rd; 9am-7pm summer, 9am-5pm Mon-Fri winter) East of town off Hwy 3, just past the Elk River crossing. Good displays about the area.



Sights

Fernie experienced a devastating fire in 1908 (one of many disasters, see right), which resulted in a brick-and-stone building code. Thus today you’ll see numerous fine early-20th-century buildings, many of which were built out of local yellow brick, giving the town an appearance unique in the East Kootenays. Get a copy of Heritage Walking Tour ($5), a superb booklet produced by the Fernie & District Historical Society (250-423-7016; 362 2nd Ave; admission by donation; 10-5pm).

Located in the old CPR train station, the Arts Station (250-423-4842; 601 1st Ave) has a small theater, galleries and studios for some of the many local artists. Opening hours depend upon what’s on.

Activities

In fall, eyes turn to the mountains for more than their beauty: they’re looking for snow. A five-minute drive from downtown Fernie, fast-growing Fernie Alpine Resort (250-423-4655, 877-333-2339, snow conditions 250-423-3555; www.skifernie.com; one-day pass adult/child from $69/22) boasts 107 runs, five bowls and almost endless dumps of powder. Most hotels run shuttles here daily. You can rent equipment for about $25 per day at the resort or at the sporting-gear stores in town.

Mountain biking is almost as big as skiing. From easy jaunts in Mt Fernie Provincial Park (www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks), which is a mere 3km from town, to legendary rides up and down the hills in and around the ski resort (which runs lifts in summer), Fernie has lots for riders. Many come just to tackle the legendary Al Matador, which drops over 900m before finishing in the terrific Three Kings trail. Get a copy of the widely available (and free) Fernie Mountain Bike Map.

Ski & Bike Base (250-423-6464; 432 2nd Ave) is but one of many excellent gear rental and supply places along 2nd Ave.

The Elk River is a classic white-water river, with three Class IV rapids and 11 more class IIIs. It passes through beautiful country and you can often see large wildlife. Several outfits, such as Mountain High River Adventures (250-423-5008, 877-423-4555; www.raftfernie.com), offer day trips for about $100 or half-day floats for $50.

Great hiking trails radiate in all directions from Fernie. The excellent and challenging Three Sisters hike winds through forests and wildflower-covered meadows, along limestone cliffs and scree slopes. Get directions at the visitor center.

Sleeping

Being a big ski town, Fernie’s high season is winter. You’ll have most fun staying in the center, otherwise Fernie Central Reservations (800-622-5007; www.ferniecentralreservations.com) can book you a room at the ski resort.

Mt Fernie Provincial Park (800-689-9025; www.discovercamping.ca; campsites $14) Only 3km from town, it has 40 sites, flush toilets, waterfalls and access to mountain-bike trails.

HI Raging Elk Hostel (250-423-6811; www.ragingelk.com; 892 6th Ave; dm $20-23, r $50-63; ) New decks allow plenty of inspirational mountain-gazing at this well-run central hostel that has good advice for those hoping to mix time on the slopes and/or trails with seasonal work.

Snow Valley Motel & RV Park (250-423-4421, 877-696-7669; www.snowvalleymotel.com; 1041 7th Ave; campsites $21-25, r $60-180; wi-fi) The 21 flower-fronted rooms here are large and include fridges and microwaves. Outside there’s a shady campground with 10 sites. It’s close to the center.



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CURSE OF A SCORNED WOMAN

Town-founder William Fernie has a well-deserved reputation as a rogue. In 1897 he promised to marry the daughter of a Ktunaxa chief in order to learn the locations of the region’s coal. But once the carbon-filled stuff was in hand, Bill dumped the daughter and earned an eternal curse that called for disaster and disease to torment the town. This woman clearly had some mo-jo as Fernie was indeed beset by calamities, including fires that leveled the town in 1904 and 1908. Only in 1964 did the mayor convince the Ktunaxa to perform a ceremony lifting the spell. While natural disasters have abated, might there have been an asterisk on that cleansing? For today Fernie suffers from a new plague: condos.





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Park Place Lodge (250-423-6871, 888-381-7275; www.parkplacelodge.com; 742 Hwy 3; r $85-200; ) The nicest lodging close to the center, its 64 comfortable rooms have high-speed internet, fridges, microwaves and access to an indoor pool. Some have balconies and views.

Eating & Drinking

Mug Shots Bistro (250-423-8018; 591 3rd Ave; coffee $2; 7am-6pm Mon-Sat; ) Always buzzing, it offers coffees, baked goods, sandwiches and internet access.

Blue Toque Diner (250-423-4637; 500 Hwy 3; mains $8; 8:30am-3:30pm) Part of the Arts Station. The menu features lots of seasonal and organic vegetarian specials. This is the place for breakfast.

Yamagoya Sushi (250-423-0090; 741 7th Ave; mains $8-20; 5-10pm) The views from the wrap-around porch may actually distract you from the artistic offerings on your plate. Wildly popular with the temp-worker crowd, who dive into the fusion rolls and tempura.

Royal Hotel (250-423-7750; 501; 1st St; noon-late) The old corner bar in this 1909 hotel has live music many nights and an especially gregarious crowd.

On summer Sunday mornings, the Mountain Market is held in Rotary Park at 7th St and Hwy 3. It’s a great community scene. Look for the many fine microbrews of the Fernie Brewing Company.

Getting There & Around

Fernie Airport Express (250-423-4023, 888-823-4023; www.mountainperks.ca) makes at least one run daily to/from Calgary airport (adult/child $67/40, 4ВЅ hours).

Greyhound Canada (Park Place Lodge, 742 Hwy 3) runs buses west to Vancouver ($133, 11ВЅ hours, one daily) via Cranbrook and Nelson ($55, six hours, two daily) and east to Calgary ($55, 5ВЅ to seven hours, two daily).


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KIMBERLEY

pop 6700

When big-time mining left Kimberley in 1973, a plan was hatched to turn the little mountain village (altitude 1113m) into a tourist destination with a Bavarian theme. The center was turned into a pedestrian zone named the Platzl, locals were encouraged to prance about in lederhosen and dirndls and sausage was added to many a menu. Now, over three decades later, the shtick is fading like memories of the war. There’s still a bit of fake half-timbering about, you can get a schnitzel and there is summertime dancing aimed at the tour bus crowds, but mostly it’s a diverse place that makes a worthwhile detour off Hwy 95 between Cranbrook and Radium Hot Springs.

The Visitor Centre (250-427-3666; www.kimber leychamber.ca; 270 Kimberley Ave; 9am-9pm Jun-Aug, 10am-5pm Mon-Fri Sep-May) is behind the Platzl and has long accommodations lists.

The 13km ride on the Sullivan Mine & Railway Historical Society (250-427-7365; 350 Ross St; adult/child $15/7; mid-May–mid-Sep) train as it chugs through the steep-walled Mark Creek Valley is the most fun locally (schedules vary). The station is about 200m west of the Platzl. At the end of the line, you can take a chairlift up to the Kimberley Alpine Resort (250-427-4881, 877-754-5462; www.skikimberley.com) for sweeping views. In winter, this fast-growing ski and board hill (one-day lift pass adult/child $53/17) has over 700 hectares of skiable terrain, mild weather and 68 runs.

Yes, you can enjoy the wurst at many local places. For good coffee, baked goods and sandwiches, try the Bean Tree Cafe (250-427-7889; 295 Spokane St; dishes $4-8; 8am-4pm) at the east end of the Platzl. It has internet access.


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CRANBROOK

pop 19,800

The area’s main center, 31km southeast of Kimberley, Cranbrook is a dusty crossroads. However, it has one great reason for stopping: the Canadian Museum of Rail Travel (250-489-3918; www.traindeluxe.com; adult/child $15/7.50; 10am-6pm summer, 10am-5pm Tue-Sat winter), which has some fine examples of classic Canadian trains, including the luxurious 1929 edition of the Trans-Canada Limited, a legendary train that ran from Montréal to Vancouver.

Hwy 3/95 bisects the town and is a grim strip of motels. But just east, 10th Ave and Baker St downtown have some delightful cafés, including Max’s Place (250-489-3538; 21 10th Ave S; snacks $4; 6am-4pm Mon-Fri).


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CRANBROOK TO ROSSLAND

Hwy 3 twists and turns its way 300km from Cranbrook to Osoyoos at the south end of the Okanagan Valley. Along the way it hugs the hills close to the US border and passes some eight border crossings. As such, it’s a road of great usefulness, even if the sights never quite live up to the promise.

Creston, 123km west of Cranbrook, is known for its many orchards and as the home of Columbia Brewing Co’s Kokanee True Ale. But both of these products are mostly shipped out, so you should too. Hwy 3A heads north of here for a scenic 80km to the Kootenay Lake Ferry (see boxed text), which connects to Nelson. This is a fun journey.

The Creston Valley Wildlife Management Area (250-402-6900; www.crestonwildlife.ca; admission free; dawn-dusk), 11km west of Creston, is a good place to spot oodles of birds, including blue heron, from the 1km boardwalk.

Some 85km west of Creston, Salmo is notable mostly as the junction with Hwy 6, which runs north for a bland 40km to Nelson. The Crowsnest splits 10km west. Hwy 3 bumps north through Castlegar, which is notable for having the closest large airport to Nelson and a very large pulp mill. Hwy 3B dips down through the cute little cafГ©-filled town of Fruitvale and industrial Trail.


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ROSSLAND

pop 3800

About 10km west of Trail, Rossland is a world apart. High in the Southern Monashee Mountains (1023m), this old mining village is one of Canada’s best places for mountain biking. A long history of mining has left the hills crisscrossed with old trails and abandoned rail lines – all of which are prefect for riding.

The Visitor Centre (250-362-7722, 888-448-7444; www.rossland.com; 9am-5pm mid-May–mid-Sep) is located in the museum building, at the junction of Hwy 22 (from the US border) and Hwy 3B. It has good listings of local B&Bs and motels.

Mountain biking is the reason many come to Rossland. Free-riding is all the rage as the ridgelines are easily accessed and there are lots of rocky paths for plunging downhill. The Seven Summits Trail is a 30.4km single track along the crest of the Rossland Range. The Kootenay Columbia Trails Society (www.rosslandtrails.ca) has tons of info, including downloadable maps.

Good in summer for riding, Red Mountain Ski Resort (250-362-7384, 800-663-0105, snow report 250-362-5500; www.redresort.com; one-day lift pass adult/child $58/29) draws plenty of ski bums in winter. Red, as it’s called, includes the 1590m-high Red Mountain and 2040m-high Granite Mountain, for a total of 485 hectares of challenging powdery terrain.

Hwy 3B is reunited with Hwy 3 28km northwest of Rossland. The road then curves its way 170km west to Osoyoos through increasingly arid terrain.


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NELSON

pop 9800

Nelson is reason enough to visit the Kootenays and should be on any itinerary in the region. Tidy brick buildings climb the side of a hill overlooking the west arm of beautiful Kootenay Lake and the waterfront is lined with parks and beaches. The thriving cafГ©, art and nightlife culture is simply a bonus. However, what really propels Nelson over the top is its personality: a funky mix of hippies, characters, creative types and rugged individualists. You can find all these along Baker St, the pedestrian-friendly main drag where wafts of patchouli mingle with hints of fresh-roasted coffee.

Born as a mining town in the late 1800s, in 1977 a decades-long heritage preservation project began. Today there are more than 350 carefully preserved and restored period buildings. Nelson is an excellent base for hiking, skiing and kayaking the nearby lakes and hills.

Orientation & Information

Nelson sits on the west arm of Kootenay Lake. As it travels down from the north, Hwy 3A becomes a series of local streets before heading west to Castlegar. Hwy 6, which skirts the west side of downtown, also goes to Castlegar, or south to the small lumber town of Salmo, before connecting with Hwy 3 and heading to Creston and the East Kootenays. Baker and surrounding streets are the center of local life.

The Visitor Centre (250-352-3433, 877-663-5706; www.discovernelson.com; 225 Hall St; 8:30am-6pm May-Oct, 8:30am-5pm Mon-Fri Nov-Apr) has good info for the region as well as Nelson.

Otter Books (250-352-7525; 398 Baker St) has new books and maps. Packrat Annie’s (250-354-4722; 411 Kootenay St) has used books and a delightful café.

Many cafГ©s have internet access. Nelson Library (250-352-6333; 602 Stanley St; 11am-8pm Mon & Wed, 11am-6pm Tue & Thu-Sat) has free access.

Sights

Almost a third of Nelson’s historic buildings have been restored to their high- and late-Victorian architectural splendor. Pick up the superb Heritage Walking Tour booklet from the visitor center. It gives details on 26 buildings in the center and offers a good lesson in Victorian architecture. The Artwalk brochure lists the many public art displays.

Touchstones Nelson (250-352-9813; 502 Vernon St; adult/child $10/4; 10am-6pm Wed-Sat, noon-4pm Sun), an excellent museum of local history and art, is housed in Nelson’s grand old city hall (1902).

Lakeside Park by the iconic Nelson Bridge is both a bucolic, shady park and a beach. From the center, follow the Waterfront Pathway, which runs all along the shore (its western extremity past the airport has a remote river vantage). You can walk one way to the park and ride Streetcar 23 (adult/child $3/2; 11am-5pm Jun-Sep, Sat & Sun May & Sep–mid-Oct) the other way. It follows a 2km track from Lakeside Park to the wharf at Hall St.

Activities

KAYAKING

The natural (meaning undammed) waters of Kootenay Lake are a major habitat for kayaks. ROAM (250-354-2056, 877-229-4959; www.roamshop.com; 639 Baker St; rentals per day $70, tours from $60) sells gear, offers advice and works with the noted Kootenay Kayak Co (250-505-4549; www.kootenaykayak.com) across the lake in Balfour.

HIKING

The two-hour climb to Pulpit Rock, practically in town, affords fine views of Nelson and Kootenay Lake, and excellent hikes abound in two parks in the Selkirk Mountains north across the lake. Kokanee Creek Provincial Park (250-825-4212; www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks), 20km northeast off Hwy 3A, has several trails heading away from the visitor center. Kokanee Glacier Provincial Park (trail conditions 250-825-3500; www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks) boasts 85km of some of the area’s most superb hiking trails. The fantastic 4km (two-hour) hike to Kokanee Lake on a well-marked trail can be continued to the treeless, boulder-strewn expanse around the glacier.

MOUNTAIN BIKING

Mountain-bike trails wind up from Kootenay Lake along steep and challenging hills, followed by vertigo-inducing downhills. Pick up trail maps at several Baker St bike shops including Sacred Ride (250-362-5688; www.sacred ride.ca; 213B Baker St; rentals $35-55 per day).

SKIING & SNOWBOARDING

Known for its heavy powdery snowfall, Whitewater Winter Resort (250-354-4944, 800-666-9420, snow report 250-352-7669; www.skiwhitewater.com; one-day lift tickets adult/child $50/30), 12km south of Nelson off Hwy 6, has the same small-town charm as Nelson. Lifts are few but so are the crowds, who enjoy a drop of 396m on 20 marked runs.

Sleeping

By all means stay in the heart of Nelson so you can fully enjoy the city’s beat. The visitor center has lists of many B&Bs in wooden heritage homes near the center.

BUDGET

City Tourist Park (250-352-7618; campnels@telus.net; 90 High St; campsites from $18; May-Oct) Just a five-minute walk from Baker St, this small campground has 40 shady sites.

HI Dancing Bear Inn (250-352-7573, 877-352-7573; www.dancingbearinn.com; 171 Baker St; dm $20-22, r $40-50; wi-fi) Proof that class and hostel are not mutually exclusive. This 14-room inn is actually gracious, welcoming and a real find.

White House Backpacker Lodge (250-352-0505; www.white-house.ca; 816 Vernon St; dm $25, r from $50-60; wi-fi) A new hostel in a lovely heritage home with a deep porch overlooking the lake. Rooms are spotless and you’ll get all the pancakes you can wash down for breakfast.

MIDRANGE

Mountain Hound Inn (250-352-6490, 866-452-6490; www.mountainhound.com; 621 Baker St; r $70-105; ) The 19 rooms are small but feature flat-screen TVs, which save space. It also offers high-speed internet and continental breakfast.

Alpine Motel (250-352-5501, 888-356-2233; www.alpine-motel.com; 1120 Hall Mines Rd; r $75-150; wi-fi). The grounds at this Swiss-style place are lush. Gaze at the cool lake from the hot tub. The 30 rooms are a good size and have wi-fi. The motel is just up the hill south of the center.

Hume Hotel (250-352-5331, 877-568-0888; www.humehotel.com; 422 Vernon St; r $80-130; wi-fi) This 1898 classic hotel is regaining its former grandeur – the red neon sign on the roof is a classic touch. The 43 rooms (beware of airless ones on sultry nights) vary greatly in quality; ask for the huge corner rooms with stunning views of the hills and lake. Rates include a tasty hot breakfast.

TOP END

Cloudside Inn (250-352-3226, 800-596-2337; www.cloudside.ca; 408 Victoria St; r $100-230; wi-fi) Even the mailbox is flower-covered at this posh five-room B&B that lives up to its name. This Victorian home is right downtown.

Eating

Stroll the Baker St environs and you’ll find a vibrant mix of eateries.

Oso Negro (250-532-7761; 604 Ward St; coffee from $1.50; 7am-5pm; ) This local meeting spot roasts its own coffee. Outside the café’s corner location there are tables in a garden that burbles with water features.

El Taco (250-352-2060; 306 Victoria St; mains $5-8; 11am-9pm) All the colors of Mexico are crammed onto this tiny house. Eat at one of the art-accented tables outside or take food away. The burritos, tacos and more are all fresh, with a lively punch.

Busaba Thai Cafe (250-352-2185; 524 Victoria St; mains $10-20; 11am-10pm) The iced Thai coffee here can turn around a hot day. The food is as attentive to authenticity as the decor is mellow. There’s no brocade or flounces here but rather some shady tables on the corner patio.

Fusion (250-352-3011; 301 Baker St; mains $12-25; noon-2pm, 5-11pm Mon-Sat) This very popular place has a menu of global influences that lives up to its name. Specials change with the seasons. It has a broad deck outside and live acoustic guitar inside.

All Seasons Café (250-352-0101; www.allseasonscafe.com; 620 Herridge Lane; mains $20-40; 5-10pm Mon-Sat) Sitting on the patio under the little lights twinkling in the huge maple above is a Nelson highlights. One of BC’s best restaurants, its casual and eclectic menu changes with the seasons.

The Outdoor Market (cnr Josephine & Baker Sts; 9:30am-3pm Wed Jul-Sep) is a community event.



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KOOTENAY FERRIES

The long Kootenay and Upper and Lower Arrow lakes necessitate some ferry travel. All ferries (www.th.gov.bc.ca/marine/ferry_schedules.htm) are free. On busy summer weekends you may have to wait in a long line for a sailing or two before you get passage.



Kootenay Lake Ferry (250-229-4215) sails between Balfour on the west arm of Kootenay Lake (34km northeast of Nelson) and Kootenay Bay, where you can follow Hwy 3A for the pretty 80km ride south to Creston. It has a 35-minute crossing. In summer the ferry leaves Balfour every 50 minutes between 6:30am and 9:40pm, and from Kootenay Lake from 7:10am to 10:20pm. In summer there are added sailings. This is a lovely route through the natural beauty of Kootenay Lake.



Needles Ferry (250-837-8418) crosses Lower Arrow Lake between Fauquier (57km south of Nakusp) and Needles (135km east of Vernon) on Hwy 6; the trip takes five minutes. The cable ferry leaves from Fauquier every 30 minutes on the hour and the half-hour from 5am to 10pm. From Needles it runs on the quarter and three-quarter hour between 5:15am and 9:45pm. After hours the ferry travels on demand only.



Upper Arrow Lake Ferry (250-837-8418) runs year-round between Galena Bay (49km south of Revelstoke) and Shelter Bay (49km north of Nakusp) on Hwy 23. The trip takes 20 minutes and runs from 6am to 11pm every hour on the hour from Shelter Bay and every hour on the half-hour between 6:30am and 11:30pm from Galena Bay. Signs on board detail the still (!) ongoing efforts attempting to restore the lake’s natural balance after the dam projects long ago.





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Drinking

Look for the organic ales of the Nelson Brewing Co.

The Royal (250-352-1269; 330 Baker St; 11am-2am) A popular bar right on Baker St. Listen to bands under the high ceilings inside or kick back on the deck.

Library Lounge (250-352-5331; Hume Hotel, 422 Vernon St; 11am-late) This refined space in the classic hotel has some good sidewalk tables where you can ponder the passing parade. There’s live jazz some nights. Downstairs, the Spiritbar nightclub aspires to something more metropolitan.

Getting There & Around

The closest airport with commercial service to Nelson is in Castlegar (www.castlegar.ca/devserv_air.htm). Queen City Shuttle (250-352-9829; www.koote nayshuttle.com; one-way adult/child $22/11) provides a link (one hour).

Greyhound Canada (800-661-8747; www.greyhound.ca; Chahko-Mika Mall, 1112A Lakeside Dr) has service to Calgary ($94, 11 to 13 hours, two daily) and Vancouver ($105, 12 to 13 hours, one daily) via Kelowna ($55, 5ВЅ hours, two daily).

The main stop for Nelson Transit System Buses (250-352-8201; www.busonline.ca; fare $1.75) is on the corner of Ward and Baker Sts. Buses 2 and 10 serve Chahko-Mika Mall and Lakeside Park.


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NELSON TO REVELSTOKE

Heading north from Nelson, there are two options – both scenic – for reaching Revelstoke. Hwy 6 heads west for 16km before turning north at South Slocan. The road eventually runs alongside pretty Slocan Lake for about 30km before reaching New Denver. You’ll see some dramatic rock faces, cool vistas of snow-clad peaks rising from the lake and little else with this option, which is 97km in total between Nelson and New Denver.

Heading north and east from Nelson on Hwy 3A is probably the most interesting route. After 34km there is the dock for the Kootenay Lake Ferry (see boxed text) at Balfour. This ride is worth it even if you’re not going anywhere, because of the long lake vistas of blue mountains rising sharply from the water.

The road becomes Hwy 31 and follows the lake 34km north to Kaslo, passing cute little towns along the way.

Kaslo itself is a вЂ˜cute little town’ that’s a good stop. The Visitor Centre (250-353-2525; www.klhs.bc.ca; 324 Front St; 9am-5pm mid-May–mid-Oct) can help with info on the myriad ways to kayak and canoe the sparkling blue waters right outside. Next door, the 1898 SS Moyie (adult/child $5/2; 9am-5pm mid-May–mid-Oct) has been restored. There’s a range of accommodations in and around town, plus some good cafГ©s.

Wild mountain streams are just some of the natural highlights on Hwy 31A, which goes up and over some rugged hills. At the end of this twisting 47km road, you reach New Denver, which seems about five years away from ghost town status. But that’s not bad as this historic little gem slumbers away peacefully right on the clear waters of Slocan Lake. The Silvery Slocan Museum (250-358-2201; www.newdenver.ca; 202 6th Ave; 9am-5pm Jun-Sep) is also home to the very helpful visitor center. Housed in the 1897 Bank of Montreal, it features well-done displays from the booming mining days, a tiny vault and an untouched tin ceiling.

Both New Denver and the equally sleepy old mining town of Silverton just south have excellent cafés. They are also good for arranging access to Valhalla Provincial Park (www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks), a 49,600-hectare area that’s one of BC’s most attractive and underappreciated parks. Like the famous photo of Diana sitting alone in front of the Taj Mahal, the park sits in grand isolation on the west side of Slocan Lake: you’ll need a boat to access the many trails and remote campsites.

Making the loop from Nelson via Hwys 6 and 31 via New Denver is an excellent day trip. Otherwise, if you’re headed to Revelstoke, continue north 47km on Hwy 6 from New Denver to Nakusp through somewhat bland rolling countryside.

Right on Upper Arrow Lake, both Nakusp and the chain of lakes were forever changed by BC’s orgy of dam-building in the 1950s and 1960s. The water level here was raised and the town had to be moved, which is why it has a sort of 1960s-era look now. Upper Arrow Lake’s ecological balance has never been the same. Still, it’s a rather pretty area and the Nakusp Visitor Centre (250-265-4234, 800-909-8819; www.nakusphotsprings.com; 92 W 6th Ave; 9am-5pm Jun-Sep) has good hiking information for the area as well as accommodations lists ranging from a hostel to B&Bs and motels.

North of Nakusp the Nakusp Hot Springs (250-265-4528; www.nakusphotsprings.com; 12km northeast of Nakusp off Hwy 23; adult/child $11/free; 9:30am-10pm) are some of several in the area. Newly reopened after installation of a water filtration system, the facility here is so clean it seems artificial. There are cramped sites for camping ($15) and simple chalets (from $60).

From Nakusp you could head west on Hwy 6 to Vernon in the Okanagan Valley – a 245km drive that includes the Needles Ferry. Or head north 55km on Hwy 23 to the Upper Arrow Lake Ferry and the final 48km to Revelstoke. For more, see boxed text.


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CARIBOO, CHILCOTIN & COAST

This vast and beautiful region covers much of BC after the last of the tourist hordes have thinned out north of Whistler. As the name implies, it comprises three very distinct areas. The Cariboo region comprises numerous ranches and terrain little changed from the 1850s when the вЂ˜Gold Rush Trail’ passed through from Lillooet to Barkerville. There are two noteworthy provincial parks here: untamed Wells Gray and canoe-happy Bowron Lake.

Populated with more moose than people, the Chilcotin lies to the west of Hwy 97 which is the north–south spine of the region. Its mostly wild rolling landscape has a few ranches and some aboriginal villages. Hwy 20 travels west from Williams Lake to the spectacular Bella Coola Valley – a bear-and-wildlife-filled inlet from the coast where adventure abounds.

Much of the region can be reached via Hwy 97 and you can build a circle itinerary to other parts of BC via Prince George in the north. The Bella Coola Valley is served by a ferry from Port Hardy on Vancouver Island, which makes for all sorts of neat circle route possibilities.

There is daily Greyhound Canada (800-661-8747; www.greyhound.ca) service along Hwy 97 to/from Prince George.


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WILLIAMS LAKE TO PRINCE GEORGE

Cattle and lumber have shaped Williams Lake, the hub for the region. Some 206km north of the junction of Hwys 1 and 97, this small town has a couple of small museums and numerous motels. But the real reason to stop is the superb Discovery Centre (250-392-5025; www.williamslakechamber.com; 1660 Broadway S off Hwy 97; 9am-5pm summer, 9am-4pm rest of yr), a visitor center in a huge log building. It is the best source for the region and is especially useful for trips west to the coast on Hwy 20.

Quesnel, 124km north of Williams Lake on Hwy 97, is all about logging. The Visitor Centre (250-992-8716; www.northcariboo.com; 703 Carson Ave; 8am-6pm Jun-Sep, 9am-4pm Tue-Sat Oct-May) adjoins a small museum. There are some good motels and cafés in the tidy, flower-lined center. From Quesnel, Hwy 26 leads east to the area’s main attractions, Barkerville Historic Park (right) and Bowron Lake Provincial Park (right).

North of Quesnel it’s 116km on Hwy 97 to Prince George.



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SLOCAN VALLEY HANG-UPS

The ripple of a creek, the howl of a coyote, the rustle of a fir, the ring of a cell phone – all part of the modern rural holiday, right? Wrong, if you agree with many residents of New Denver and the surrounding Slocan Valley. In a bid to preserve the calm of this sleepy and characterful BC enclave, a faction of residents has opposed plans to bring cell-phone reception to the area. One tourism official told the Vancouver Sun: вЂ˜We can say, “Come here for holidaying and your boss can’t get hold of you”.’ But others want the phones, including – predictably – the RCMP (Royal Canadian Mounted Police). And as signal towers are held at bay, cell-phobes can’t even take encouragement from another eccentric place, Dawson City in the Yukon, which kept the phones out for years before succumbing. Not long after ring tones began echoing down the streets, one key opponent was seen gabbing on a cell phone in the grocery store.





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BARKERVILLE & AROUND

In 1862 Billy Barker, previously of Cornwall, struck gold deep in the Cariboo. Soon Barkerville sprung up, populated by the usual fly-by-night crowds of whores, dupes, tricksters and just plain prospectors. Today you can visit more than 125 restored heritage buildings in Barkerville Historic Park (888-994-3332 ext 29; www.barkerville.ca; adult/child $13/3.75; 8am-8pm May-Sep). In summer, people dressed in period garb roam through town, and if you can tune out the crowds it feels more authentic than forced. It has cafés and a couple of B&Bs. At other times of year you can visit the town for free but don’t expect to find much open – possibly a plus.

Near Barkerville, quirky Wells has accommodations, restaurants and a general store. The Visitor Centre (250-994-2323, 877-451-9355; www.wellsbc.com; 4120 Pooley St; 9am-6pm Jun-Aug), in an old storefront, has details.

Barkerville is 82km east of Quesnel at the end of Hwy 26.


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BOWRON LAKE PROVINCIAL PARK

The place heaven-bound canoeists go when they die, Bowron Lake Provincial Park (www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks) is a fantasyland of 10 lakes surrounded by snow-capped peaks. Forming a natural circle with sections of the Isaac, Cariboo and Bowron rivers, its 116km canoe circuit is one of the world’s finest. There are eight portages, with the longest (2km) over well-defined trails.

The whole circuit takes between six and 10 days, and you’ll need to be completely self-sufficient. It’s generally open mid-May to October. September is an excellent choice, both for the bold colors of changing leaves and lack of summertime crowds.

Before planning your trip, visit the BC Parks (800-435-5622, 250-387-1642; www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks/) website and search for Bowron Lake. Follow the links and download the essential Bowron Lake Canoe Circuit Pre-Trip Information document. You will then need to phone BC Parks to reserve your circuit, which can be done around January 2. The fee is $60 per person plus an $18 reservation fee. Once you get to the park, you must go to the Registration Centre (8am-6pm mid-May-Sep), at a time given to you when you make your reservation, to check in and undergo an orientation.



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WORTH THE STOP: COTTONWOOD HOUSE

When the wind rustles the namesake cottonwood trees surrounding Cottonwood House Historic Site (summer 250-992-2071, winter 250-983-6911; www.cottonwoodhouse.ca; adult/child $4.50/free; 10am-5pm mid-May–Aug), 26km east of Quesnel on Hwy 26, you may just be transported 150 years back in time. This community project is a complete restoration of a classic roadhouse of the kind found about a day’s ride apart along the Goldrush Trail.





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If you’d rather leave the details to others, Whitegold Adventures (250-994-2345, 866-994-2345; www.whitegold.ca; Hwy 26, Wells) offers four- to eight-day guided paddles of Bowron Lake. A full eight-day circuit with guides and food costs $1500 per person.

Near the Registration Centre, Bowron Lake Provincial Park Campground (campsite $14) has 25 simple sites and pit toilets. Picture-perfect and tight on the lake, the 16-cabin Bowron Lake Lodge (250-992-2733, 800-519-3399; www.bowronlakelodge.com; r $60-150; May-Sep) has 50 campsites (some on the lake) for $20 to $24. Nearby, Becker’s Lodge (250-992-8864, 800-808-4761; www.beckerslodge.ca; r two nights $80-220) has log chalets that are inviting inside and out. The 25 campsites are priced at $15 to $25, including firewood and use of the facilities. Both these lodges rent gear, canoes and kayaks.

To get to the park by car, turn off Hwy 26 just before Barkerville and follow the 28km gravel Bowron Lake Rd.


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WELLS GRAY PROVINCIAL PARK

Plunging 141m onto rocks below, Helmcken Falls – Canada’s fourth-highest – is but one of the undiscovered facets of Wells Gray Provincial Park (www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks), itself an undiscovered gem.

BC’s fourth-largest park is bounded by the Clearwater River and its tributaries, which define the park’s boundaries. Highlights for visitors include five major lakes, two large river systems, scores of waterfalls and most every kind of BC land-based wildlife.

Most people enter the park via the town of Clearwater on Hwy 5, 123km north of Kamloops. From here a 36km paved road runs to the park’s south entrance. Part-gravel, Wells Gray Rd then runs 29km into the heart of the park. Many hiking trails and sights such as Helmcken Falls are accessible off this road, which ends at Clearwater Lake.

More rugged roads enter the park from 100 Mile House on Hwy 97 and Blue River, 107km north of Clearwater on Hwy 5.

In Clearwater the Visitor Centre (250-674-2646; www.clearwaterbcchamber.com; 425 E Yellowhead Hwy at Clearwater Valley Rd; 9am-5pm Jul & Aug, Mon-Fri Apr-Jun & Sep-Dec) is a vital info stop for the park.

You’ll find opportunities for hiking, cross-country skiing or horseback riding along more than 20 trails of varying lengths. Rustic backcountry campgrounds dot the area around four of the lakes. To rent canoes, contact Clearwater Lake Tours (250-674-2121; www.clearwaterlaketours.com; canoes per day from $40), which also leads treks.

There are three vehicle-accessible campgrounds (250-674-2194; campsite $14) in the park, all with pit toilets but no showers. One of the most bucolic, the 50-site Pyramid Campground (May-Oct) is just 5km north of the park’s south entrance and close to Helmcken Falls. There’s plenty of backcountry camping (per person $5) along the shores of the larger lakes.

Wells Gray Guest Ranch (250-674-2792, 866-467-4346; www.wellsgrayranch.com; campsites $15, r $75-130) has 12 cozy rooms in cabins and the main lodge building. It’s 27km north of Clearwater.


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CHILCOTIN: HIGHWAY 20

Meandering over the lonely hills west of the Chilcotin, Hwy 20 runs 450km from Williams Lake to the Bella Coola Valley. Long spoken about by drivers in the sort of hushed tones doctors use when describing a worrisome stool specimen, the road has been steadily improved and today is more than 90% paved. However, the section that’s not is a doozy. Known as the Hill, this perilous 30km stretch of gravel is 386km west of Williams Lake. It descends 1524m from Heckman’s Pass to the valley (nearly sea level) through a series of tortuous switchbacks and 10% to 18% grades. However, by taking your time and using low gear you might actually enjoy the stunning views (just make certain that’s not as you plunge over the side). And it’s safe for all vehicles – tourists engorged with testosterone from their SUVs (sport-utility vehicles) are humbled when a local in a Chevy beater zips past.

Driving the road in one go will take about six hours. You’ll come across a few aboriginal villages as well as gravel roads that lead off to the odd provincial park and deserted lake. Check with the visitor center at Williams Lake for details of these and available services.


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BELLA COOLA VALLEY

Leaving the dry expanses of the Chilcotin, you’re in for a surprise when you reach the bottom of the hill. The Bella Coola Valley is at the heart of the Great Bear Rainforest (see boxed text), a lush land of huge stands of trees, surging white water and more bear than you can count. It almost feels like Shangri-La – without the monks. But it is a spiritual place: Nuxalk First Nations artists are quite active here, and for many a creative type from elsewhere this is literally the end of the road.

The valley stretches 53km to the shores of the North Bentinck Arm, a deep, glacier-fed fjord that runs 40km inland from the Pacific Ocean. The two main towns, Bella Coola on the water and Hagensborg 15km east, almost seem as one, with most places of interest in or between the two.

Bella Coola Valley Tourism (250-982-2212; www.bellacoola.ca; Co-op Store, cnr Mackenzie St & Burke Ave, Bella Coola; 8am-5pm Jun-Aug, shorter hr Sep) can help you sort out the many joys of the valley. Most places aimed at visitors are open May to September, check for dates beyond that. Both the visitor center and your accommodations can point you to guides and gear for skiing, mountain biking, fishing, rafting and much more. Services like car repair, ATMs, laundry and groceries are easily found.

Sights & Activities

Spanning the Chilcotin and the east end of the valley, the southern portion of Tweedsmuir Provincial Park (250-398-4414; www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks) is the second-largest provincial park in BC. It’s a seemingly barely charted place perfect for challenging backcountry adventures. Many hikes and canoe circuits can only be reached by float plane. Get details at the Williams Lake or Bella Coola Valley visitor centers. There are fine day hikes off Hwy 20 in the valley.

Good trails can be found through the valley. A good, short hike just west of Hagensborg can be found at Walker Island Park on the edge of the wide and rocky Bella Coola River flood plain. Leaving the parking area you are immediately in the middle of a grove of cedars that are 500 years old. But there’s really no limit to your activities here. You can hike into the hills and valleys starting from roads or at points only reachable by boat along the craggy coast.

The valley is renowned for bear. Kynoch West Coast Adventures (250-982-2298; www.kynochadventures.com) specializes in critter-spotting float trips down local rivers (from $85).

Sleeping & Eating

There are dozens of B&Bs and small lodges along Hwy 20. Many offer evening meals, otherwise there’s a couple of cafés and motels in Bella Coola.

Near the namesake bridge, Bailey Bridge Campsite & Cabins (250-982-2342; www.bailybridge.ca; Salloompt River Rd; campsites from $15, cabins from $55) has nicely shaded campsites and cabins on the banks of the rushing Bella Coola River.

Experts in the local area own Bella Coola’s Eagle Lodge (250-799-5587, 866-799-5587; www.eaglelodgebc.com; 1103 Hwy 20, Bella Coola; r from $80; wi-fi). The seven B&B-style rooms look out over a verdant expanse.

Brockton House (250-982-2298, 866-982-2298; www.brocktonplace.com; 1900 Hwy 20, Hagensborg; r $70-120; wi-fi) has 14 roomy units with kitchen facilities. There’s a coffee bar for that morning jolt.

Getting There & Away

BC Ferries (888-223-3779; www.bcferries.com; adult/child $139/79, car from $278) runs the Discovery Coast ferry, which links Bella Coola and Port Hardy on Vancouver Island several times a week in summer. The journey takes from 13 to 22 hours, depending on stops. Best are the direct 13-hour trips as the usual boat, the veteran Queen of Chilliwack, does not have cabins.

There is no transportation along Hwy 20 to Williams Lake, although you can go by charter plane. Pacific Coastal Airlines (800-663-2872; www.pacificcoastal.com) has daily flights to/from Vancouver (one way from $230, one hour).



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THE GREAT BEAR RAINFOREST

It’s the last major tract of coastal temperate rainforest left on the planet. The Great Bear Rainforest is a wild region of islands, fjords and towering peaks. Covering 6.3 million hectares (or 7% of BC), it stretches south from Alaska along the BC coast and Queen Charlotte Islands to roughly Campbell River on Vancouver Island (which isn’t part of the forest). The forests and waters are remarkably rich in life: whales, salmon, eagles, elk, otter and more thrive here. Remote river valleys are lined with forests of old Sitka spruce, Pacific silver fir and various cedars that are often 100m tall and 1500 years old.



As vast as it is, however, the Great Bear is under great threat. Less than 40% is protected; mineral and logging companies are eyeing the rest. Among the many groups fighting to save this irreplaceable habitat is the Raincoast Conservation Foundation (www.raincoast.org).



From Bella Coola, you can arrange boat trips and treks to magical places in the Great Bear, including hidden rivers where you might see a rare Kermode bear, a white-furred offshoot of the black bear known in tribal legend as the вЂ˜spirit bear’ and the namesake of the rainforest.





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THE NORTH

Northern BC is where you will truly feel that you’ve crossed that ethereal border to some place different. Nowhere else are the rich cultures of Canada’s Aboriginal people so keenly felt, from the Haida on the Queen Charlotte Islands to the Tsimshians on the mainland. Nowhere else does land so exude mystery, whether it’s the storm-shrouded coast and islands or the silent majesty of glaciers carving passages through entire mountain ranges.

And nowhere else has this kind of promise. Highways like the fabled Alaska or the awe-inspiring Stewart-Cassiar inspire adventure, discovery or even a new life. Here, your place next to nature will never be in doubt; you’ll revel in your own insignificance.


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PRINCE RUPERT

pop 15,200

People are always вЂ˜discovering Prince Rupert.’ Enough already, it’s been found! And what a find it is. This fascinating city with a gorgeous harbor is not just a transportation hub (ferries go south to Vancouver Island, west to the Queen Charlotte Islands and north to Alaska) but a destination in its own right. It has two excellent museums, fine restaurants and a culture that draws much from its aboriginal heritage.

It may rain 220 days a year but that doesn’t stop the drip-dry locals enjoying activities in the misty mountains and waterways. Originally the dream of Charles Hays (who built the railroad here before going to a watery grave on the Titanic), Rupert (as it’s called) always seems one step behind a bright future. But finally its ship may have come in – literally. A new container port will speed cheap tat from China to bargain-desperate Americans and each year more huge cruise ships on the Inside Passage circuit drop off their hordes to вЂ˜discover’ Rupert’s authentic appeal. (And the new casino promises to relieve those day-trippers of additional dollars.)

Orientation

Prince Rupert is on Kaien Island and is connected to the mainland by a bridge on Hwy 16. Cow Bay, named for a dairy farm that used to be located here, has become a historic waterfront area full of shops and restaurants and the busy cruise ship port, Atlin Terminal. It’s just north of the compact and somewhat hilly downtown, which has that odd Canadian system of naming intersecting streets and avenues with the same number. The ferry and train terminal is 3km southwest.

Information



Java Dot Cup (250-622-2822; 516 3rd Ave W; per hr $4; 7:30am-9pm) Has internet access plus a decent cafГ©.

King Koin (250-624-2667; 745 2nd Ave W; 8am-10pm) Self-serve or drop-off laundry.

Prince Rupert Library (250-627-1345; 101 6th Ave W; 10am-9pm Mon-Thu, 10am-5pm Fri, 1-5pm Sat & Sun) Has wi-fi.

Rainforest Books (250-624-4195; 251 3rd Ave W) Good selection of new and used.

Visitor Centre (250-624-5637, 800-667-1994; www.tourismprincerupert.com; 9am-8pm May-Sep, 9am-5pm Oct-Apr) In the Cow Bay Atlin Terminal where cruise ships dock.





Sights

Don’t miss the Museum of Northern BC (250-624-3207; www.museumofnorthernbc.com; 100 1st Ave W; adult/child $5/1; 9am-8pm Mon-Sat, 9am-5pm Sun May-Sep, 9am-5pm Mon-Sat Oct-Apr), which resides in a building styled after an aboriginal longhouse. The museum shows how local civilizations enjoyed sustainable cultures that lasted for thousands of years – you might say they were ahead of their time. The displays include a wealth of excellent Haida, Gitksan and Tsimshian art and plenty of info on totem poles. Special tours of the museum, walking tours of town and the bookshop are all excellent.

You’ll see totems all around town; two flank the statue of Charlie Hays beside City Hall on 3rd Ave. To witness totem-building in action, stop by the Carving Shed, next door to the courthouse.

A short walk from the center, Cow Bay is a delightful place for a stroll. The eponymous spotted decor is everywhere but somehow avoids seeming clichéd. There are shops, cafés and a good view of the waterfront. See the bounty of Rupert’s vibrant creative community at the artist-run Ice House Gallery (250-624-4546; Atlin Terminal; noon-5pm Tue-Sun).

Actvities

Skeena Kayaking (250-624-5246; www.skeenakayaking.ca; rentals per 24hr $85) offers both rentals and custom tours of the area, which has a seemingly infinite variety of places to put in the water.

Beginning at a parking lot on the Yellowhead Hwy, 3km south of town, a flat 4km loop trail to Butze Rapids has interpretive signs. Others here are more demanding.

Tours

Pike Island (Laxspa’aws) is a small island past Digby Island outside of the harbor. Thriving villages were based there as long as 2000 years ago, and remnants and evidence can be seen today. Further afield, Khutzeymateen Grizzly Bear Sanctuary is home to more than 50 of the giants. Both can only be reached with tours.

Prince Rupert Adventure Tours (250-627-9166; Atlin Terminal) offers two-hour harbor tours throughout the year (adult/child $55/40) and day-long trips to Khutzeymateen (adult/child $155/135).

Seashore Charters (250-624-5645, 800-667-4393; www.seashorecharters.com; Atlin Terminal) runs half-day trips to Laxspa’aws (adult/child $60/40) with an Aboriginal guide and all-day Khutzeymateen trips for $150/130,

Sleeping

Rupert has a range of accommodations, including more than a dozen B&Bs (the visitor center has lists) but when all three ferries have pulled in competition gets fierce: book ahead.

Prince Rupert RV Campground (250-624-5861; www.princerupertrv.com; 1750 Park Ave; campsite from $19; ) Near the ferry terminal, it has 88 sites, hot showers, laundry and flush toilets.

Pioneer Hostel (250-624-2334, 888-794-9998; www.pioneerhostel.com; 167 3rd Ave E; dm $15-24, r $40-50; wi-fi) The compact rooms and bathrooms are spotless and accented with vibrant colors. The hostel has a small kitchen and barbecue facilities out back; it provides free bikes and ferry/train pick-ups.



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WORTH THE TRIP: NORTH PACIFIC HISTORIC FISHING MUSEUM

About 20km south of Prince Rupert, the North Pacific Historic Fishing Museum (250-628-3538; www.cannery.ca; 1889 Skeena Dr; adult/child $12/8; 10am-7pm mid-May-Sep), near the town of Port Edward, explores the history of fishing and canning along the Skeena River. The fascinating all-wood complex was used from 1889 to 1968; exhibits document the miserable conditions of the workers. Hours are not always reliable so confirm before your visit. Prince Rupert Transit (opposite) has bus service to the site.





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Pacific Inn (250-627-1711, 888-663-1999; www.pacificinn.bc.ca; 909 3rd Ave W; r $75-140; wi-fi) Nothing special here, just 77 good-sized and comfortable rooms in a well-maintained building, with a rain-sheltered garage. It’s well located for both the center and the ferries.

Inn on the Harbour (250-624-9107, 800-663-8155; www.innontheharbour.com; 720 1st Ave W; r $75-150; wi-fi) When you’re inside this hotel, you won’t be able to see its bland outside; instead you’ll be enjoying the sweeping harbor views. The 49 rooms have a dash of style.

Crest Hotel (250-624-6771, 800-663-8150; www.cresthotel.bc.ca; 222 1st Ave W; r $100-180; ) The rooms with harbor views are the reason for staying here. The ones with parking-lot views are not. The 102 rooms are small but plushly appointed. There’s also a hot tub with a view.

Eating & Drinking

Halibut and salmon fresh from the fishing fleet appear on menus all over town.

Smiles Seafood (250-624-3072; 113 Cow Bay Rd; mains $6-20; 11am-9pm) Since 1934 Smiles has served classic, casual seafood meals. Slide into a vinyl booth or sit out on the deck.

Charley’s Lounge (250-624-6771; Crest Hotel, 222 1st Ave; mains $8-20; noon-late) Locals flock to trade gossip while gazing out over the harbor from the heated patio. The pub menu features some of Rupert’s best seafood.

Cow Bay CafГ© (250-627-1212; 205 Cow Bay Rd; mains $10-20; 11:30am-9pm) The inventive menu at this well-known bistro changes twice daily; there are always a half-dozen mains and desserts to tempt. Dine outside on the harbor.

Rain (250-627-8272; 737 2nd Ave; mains $10-20; 5pm-2am Mon-Sat) A trendy lounge-bistro with a hipster interior, a rooftop deck and an open kitchen that sends out a steady stream of creative and fresh meals.

Cowpuccino’s (250-627-1395; 25 Cow Bay Rd; coffee $2; 7am-8pm) A funky local café where the coffee will make you forget the rain.

Getting There & Away

Prince Rupert airport (YPR; 250-622-2222; www.ypr.ca) is on Digby Island, across the harbor from town. The trip involves a bus and ferry; pick-up is at the Highliner Hotel (815 1st Ave) two hours before flight time. Confirm all the details with your airline or the airport.

Air Canada Jazz (888-247-2262; www.aircanada.com) serves Vancouver; check-in is at the airport. HawkAir (866-429-5247; www.hawkair.ca; check-in Highliner Hotel, 815 1st Ave W) also serves Vancouver.

The western terminus VIA Rail station (BC Ferries Terminal) operates the tri-weekly Skeena to/from Prince George (12ВЅ hours) and, after an overnight stop, Jasper in the Rockies.

Greyhound Canada (800-661-8747; www.greyhound.ca; 112 6th St) buses depart to Prince George ($107, 10 hours) once a day.

The BC Ferries (250-386-3431; www.bcferries.com) Inside Passage run to Port Hardy (adult/child $132/74, car/cabin from $310/75, 15 to 25 hours) is hailed for its amazing scenery. There are three services per week in summer, one per week in winter. The Queen Charlotte Islands service goes to Skidegate Landing (adult/child $32/18, car/cabin from $117/55, seven hours) six times per week in summer and three times a week in winter.

Alaska Marine Highway System (250-627-1744, 800-642-0066; www.ferryalaska.com) ferries link Rupert to the Yukon gateways of Haines and Skagway, Alaska (see boxed text).

Getting Around

Prince Rupert Transit (250-624-3343; www.busonline.ca; adult/child $1.25/1) services the centre and provides infrequent service to the ferry port and North Pacific Historic Fishing Village ($2.50). The main bus stop is at the Rupert Square Mall on 2nd Ave.

A one-way trip to the ferries or train with Skeena Taxi (250-624-5318) is about $10.



* * *



ONE TALL TALE

Though most Aboriginal groups on the northwest coast lack formal written history as we know it, centuries of traditions manage to live on through artistic creations such as totem poles.



Carved from a single cedar trunk, totems identify a household’s lineage in the same way a family crest might identify a group or clan in Britain, although the totem pole is more of a historical pictograph depicting the entire ancestry.



Unless you’re an expert, it’s not easy to decipher a totem. But you can start by looking for the creatures that are key to the narrative. Try to pick out the following.





Black bear Serves as a protector, guardian and spiritual link between humans and animals.

Beaver Symbolizes industriousness, wisdom and determined independence.

Eagle Signifies intelligence and power.

Frog Represents adaptability, the ability to live in both natural and supernatural worlds.

Hummingbird Embodies love, beauty and unity with nature.

Killer whale Symbolizes dignity and strength (often depicted as a reincarnated spirit of a great chief).

Raven Signifies mischievousness and cunning.

Salmon Typifies dependable sustenance, longevity and perseverance.

Shark Exemplifies an ominous and fierce solitude.

Thunderbird Represents the wisdom of proud ancestors.



Two excellent places both to see totem poles and learn more are the Haida Heritage Centre at Qay’llnagaay at Skidegate and the Museum of Northern BC (Click here) in Prince Rupert.



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QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS (HAIDA GWAII)

The Queen Charlotte Islands (or the increasingly popular First Nations name Haida Gwaii) are a magical trip for those who make the effort. Attention has long focused on their many unique flora and fauna to the extent that вЂ˜Canada’s Galapagos’ is a popular moniker. But each year it becomes more apparent that the real soul of the islands is the Haida culture itself. Long one of the most advanced and powerful First Nations, the Haida suffered terribly after Westerners arrived.

Now, however, their culture is resurgent and can be found across the islands in myriad ways beyond their iconic totem polls. Haida reverence for the environment is protecting the last stands of superb old-growth rainforests where the spruce and cedars are some of the world’s largest. Amidst this sparsely populated, wild and rainy place are bald eagles, bear and much more wildlife. Offshore, sea lion and orcas abound. Recently the first pod of blue whales seen in decades summered off the Charlottes.

A visit to the islands rewards those who invest time to get caught up in their allure, their culture and their people – plan on a long stay. The number-one attraction here is remote Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve, which makes up the bottom third of the archipelago. Named the top park in North America by National Geographic Traveler for being вЂ˜beautiful and intact,’ it is a lost world of Haida culture and superb natural beauty.

Orientation

The Queen Charlottes form a dagger-shaped archipelago of some 154 islands lying 80km west of the BC coast, and about 50km from the southern tip of Alaska. Mainland ferries dock at Skidegate Landing on Graham Island, the main island for population (80%) and commerce. The principal town is Queen Charlotte City (QCC), 7km west of Skidegate. The main road on Graham Island is Hwy 16, which is fully paved. It links Skidegate with Masset 101km north, passing the small towns of Tlell and Port Clements.

Graham Island is linked to Moresby Island to the south by a ferry from Skidegate Landing. The airport is in Sandspit on Moresby Island, 12km east of the ferry landing at Aliford Bay. The only way to get to Gwaii Haanas National Park, which covers the south part of Moresby Island, is by boat or floatplane.

Information

The QCC Visitor Centre (250-559-8316; www.qcinfo.ca; 3220 Wharf St; 8am-noon, 4-9pm May-Sep, 9am-5pm Tue-Sat Oct-Apr) is handy, although there’s been a recent encroachment of gift items. Get a free copy of Art Route, a guide to more than 40 studios and galleries.

In Masset, the Visitor Centre (250-626-3982; 1450 Christie St; 10am-4pm Jun-Aug) is near the south entrance to town.

Either download or pick up a copy of the encyclopedic annual Guide to the Queen Charlotte Islands (www.queencharlotteislandsguide.com). A good website for information is www.haidagwaiitourism.ca.

Shops and services can be found in both QCC and Masset. Northwest Coast Books (250-559-4681; 3205 Hwy 3rd Ave, QCC; 10am-4pm Mon-Fri) is great for local books.

Sights & Activities

GWAII HAANAS NATIONAL PARK RESERVE & HAIDA HERITAGE SITE

This huge Unesco World Heritage site encompasses Moresby and 137 smaller islands at the southern end of the Charlottes. It combines a time-capsule look at abandoned Haida villages, hot springs, amazing natural beauty and some of the continent’s best kayaking.

Archaeological finds have documented more than 500 ancient Haida sites, including villages and burial caves throughout the islands. The most famous village is SGaang Gwaii (Ninstints) on Anthony Island, where rows of weathered totem poles stare eerily out to sea. Other major sights include the ancient village of Skedans, on Louise Island, and Hotspring Island, where you can soak away the bone-chilling cold in natural springs. The sites are protected by Haida Gwaii watchmen, who live on the islands in summer.

Access to the park is by boat or plane only. A visit demands a decent amount of advance planning and usually requires several days. From May to September, you must obtain a reservation, unless you’re with a tour operator.

Contact Parks Canada’s Gwaii Haanas office (250-559-8818; www.pc.gc.ca/gwaiihaanas; Haida Heritage Centre at Qay’llnagaay, Skidegate; 8am-noon & 1-4:30pm Mon-Fri) with questions. The website has links to the essential annual trip planner. Anyone who has not visited the park during the previous three years must attend a free 90-minute orientation at the park office (all visitors must also register). Confirm times when you reserve.

The number of daily reservations (250-387-1642, 800-435-5622; per person $15) is limited: plan well in advance. In addition there are user fees (adult/child $20/10 per night). Nightly fees are waved if you have a Parks Canada Season Excursion Pass. Six much-coveted standby spaces are made available daily: call Parks Canada.

The easiest way to get into the park is with a tour company. Parks Canada can provide you with lists of operators; tours last from one day to two weeks. Many can also set you up with rental kayaks (average $60/275 per day/week) and gear for independent travel.

Moresby Explorers (250-637-2215, 800-806-7633; www.moresbyexplorers.com) is Sandspit-based. It has one-day tours from $165 as well as much longer ones. It rents kayaks and gear.

Also QCI-based, Queen Charlotte Adventures (250-559-8990, 800-668-4288; www.queencharlotteadventures.com) offers lots of one- to 10-day trips using boats and kayaks. It has a six-day kayak trip to the remote south for $1600.

HAIDA HERITAGE CENTRE AT QAY’LLNAGAAY

One of the top attractions in the north is the marvelous new Haida Heritage Centre at Qay’llnagaay (250-559-7885; www.haidaheritagecentre.com; Skidegate; adult/child $12/5 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10-5pm Sat & Sun Jun-Aug, closed Sun & Mon Oct-Apr). This heritage center alone is reason to visit the islands. The rich traditions of the Haida are fully explored in galleries, programs and work areas, where contemporary artists create new works such as the totem poles lining the shore.

SPIRIT LAKE TRAIL

Near the museum, this alluring 3km, 1½-hour round-trip trail climbs into the foothills to loop around small twin lakes. There’s birdlife aplenty and lots of large hemlock, Sitka spruce and cedar trees. It’s an excellent introduction to the ecology of the islands.

YELLOWHEAD HIGHWAY

The QCI portion of the Yellowhead Hwy (Hwy 16) heads 110km north from Queen Charlotte past Skidegate, Tlell and Port Clements. The latter was where the famous golden spruce tree on the banks of the Yakoun River was cut down by a demented forester in 1997. The incident is detailed in the best-selling The Golden Spruce by John Vaillant, one of the best books on the islands and the Haida culture in print.

All along the road to Masset, look for little seaside pullouts, oddball boutiques and funky cafés that are typical of the island’s character.

NAIKOON PROVINCIAL PARK

Much of the island’s northeastern side is devoted to the beautiful 72,640-hectare Naikoon Provincial Park (250-626-5115; www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks), which combines sand dunes and low sphagnum bogs, surrounded by stunted and gnarled lodgepole pine, and red and yellow cedar. The beaches on the north coast feature strong winds, pounding surf and flotsam from across the Pacific. They can be reached via the stunning 26km-long Tow Hill Rd, east of Masset. A 21km loop trail traverses a good bit of the park to/from Fife Beach at the end of the road.

Sleeping

Small inns and B&Bs are mostly found on Graham Island. There are numerous choices in QCC and Masset, with many in between and along the spectacular north coast. Naikoon Provincial Park (above) has two campgrounds (campsites $14), including a dramatic windswept one on deserted Agate Beach, 23km east of Masset.

Premier Creek Lodging (250-559-8415, 888-322-3388; www.qcislands.net/premier, 3101 3rd Ave, QCC; dm $23, r $35-90; wi-fi) Dating from 1910, this friendly lodge has eight beds in a dorm building out back and 14 rooms in the main area, ranging from tiny but great-value singles to spacious rooms with views.

Hecate Inn (250-559-4543; www.qcislands.net/he cateinn; 321 3rd Ave, QCC; r $80-120; ) Surrounded by flowers, the 16 rooms here have high-speed internet and are absolutely shipshape.

Alaska View Lodge (250-626-3333, 800-661-0019; www.alaskaviewlodge.ca; Tow Hill Rd; r $70-120) Set on a driftwood-covered beach 12km east of Masset, the four cozy rooms are perfect retreats.

Copper Beech House (250-626-5441; www.copperbeechhouse.com; 1590 Delkatla Rd, Masset; r $75-150). David Phillips has created a legendary B&B in a rambling old house on Masset Harbor. It has three unique rooms and there’s always something amazing cooking in the kitchen.

Eating & Drinking

The best selection of restaurants is in QCC, although there are also a few in Skidegate, Tlell and Masset. Ask at the visitor centers about local Haida feasts, where you’ll enjoy the best salmon, blueberries and more you’ve ever had.

Queen B’s (250-559-4463; 3201 Wharf St, QCC; mains $7-15; 9am-5pm Mon-Thu & Sat, 9am-9pm Fri, 10am-4pm Sun) Choose your view: tables overlooking the water outside or lots of local art inside. Join the buzzing repartee and order from the menu of organic treats. Weekly dinners celebrate local ingredients.

Sip’s (250-559-4733; 3201 Wharf St, QCC; 5-10pm Tue-Sat) The former Canadian Legion building has been turned into a nifty little lounge that features martinis, live folk music and a deck with a view.

Haida Rose (250-626-3310; 415 Frog St, Old Masset; 10am-5pm; ) This Haida-run coffeehouse celebrates the culture and has excellent homemade lunch specials.



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WHAT THE…?

Take a trip to the moon. From Terrace head 80km north to bizarre Nisga’a Memorial Lava Bed Provincial Park (250-798-2277; www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks; mid-May-Oct), which preserves a vast, 250-year-old lava flow that killed more than 2000 of the local Nisga’a people. Several short trails take you through the eerie landscape. From here, you can take a 51km-long logging road that’s a fine dry-weather short-cut to the Stewart-Cassiar Hwy (Hwy 37). The two meet at a signpost marked вЂ˜Cranberry Junction.’





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Getting There & Away

The BC Ferries service from Prince Rupert is the most popular way to reach the islands.

AIR

The main airport for QCI is at Sandspit (YZP; 250-559-0052) on Moresby Island. There’s also a small airport at Masset (YMT; 250-626-3995).

Air Canada Jazz (888-247-2262; www.aircanada.com) flies daily between Sandspit and Vancouver. Pacific Coastal Airlines (800-663-2872; www.pacific-coastal.com) flies between Masset and Vancouver several times per week. North Pacific Seaplanes (800-689-4234; www.northpacificseaplanes.com; one way from $165) links Prince Rupert with Masset, QCC and any place else a float plane can land.

Note that reaching the airport from Graham Island is time-consuming: if your flight is at 3:30pm, you need to line up at the car ferry at Skidegate Landing at 12:30pm.

FERRY

BC Ferries (250-386-3431; www.bcferries.com) links Prince Rupert and Skidegate Landing (adult/child $32/18, car/cabin from $117/55, seven hours) with six services a week in summer and three per week in winter.

Getting Around

Off Hwy 16, most roads are gravel or worse. If you plan to drive the many forest roads, contact Western Forest Products (250-557-6810; 6:30am-5:30pm Mon-Fri) to check conditions.

BC Ferries operate a small car ferry (adult/child $7/4, cars from $17, 20 minutes, hourly from 7am to 10pm) linking the two main islands at Skidegate Landing and Alliford Bay.

Eagle Transit (877-747-4461; www.qcislands.net/eagle) meets flights and ferries. The fare from the airport to QCC is $15.

Renting a car can be as expensive as bringing one over on the ferry. Budget (250-637-5688; www.budget.com) has locations at the airport and QCC. Rustic Car Rentals (250-559-4641, 877-559-4641; citires@qcislands.net; 605 Hwy 33, QCC) has cars from $40 per day plus $0.20 per km.


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PRINCE RUPERT TO PRINCE GEORGE

You can cover the 725km on Hwy 16 between BC’s Princes in a day or a week. There’s nothing that’s an absolute must-see, but there’s much to divert and cause you to pause if so inclined. Scenery along much of the road (with a notable exception) won’t fill your memory card but it is a pleasing mix of mountains and rivers.

For the first 150km, Hwy 16 hugs the wide and wild Skeena River. This is four-star scenic driving and you’ll see glaciers and jagged peaks across the waters. However, tatty Terrace is nobody’s idea of a reward at the end of this stretch.

From Terrace, Hwy 16 continues 93km east to Kitwanga, where the Stewart-Cassiar Hwy (Hwy 37) strikes north towards the Yukon and Alaska.

Just east of Kitwanga you reach the Hazelton area (comprising New Hazelton, Hazelton and South Hazelton), the center of some interesting aboriginal sites, including вЂ˜Ksan Historical Village & Museum (250-842-5544; www.ksan.org; admission $2; 9am-5pm April-Sep, 9:30am-4:30pm Mon-Fri Oct-Mar). This re-created village of the Gitksan people features longhouses, a museum, various outbuildings and totem poles.

Almost 70km further on you reach Smithers, a largish town with a cute old downtown. The Visitor Centre (250-847-5072, 800-542-6673; www.tourismsmithers.com; 1411 Court St; 9am-6pm May-Sep, 9am-5pm Mon-Fri Oct-Apr) can steer you to excellent mountain biking, white-water rafting and climbing. Great hiking is found at nearby Babine Mountains Provincial Park (250-847-7329; www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks; backcountry campsites per person $5), a 32,400-hectare park with trails to glacier-fed lakes and subalpine meadows. The Smithers Guesthouse (250-847-4862; www.smithersguesthouse.com; 1766 Main St; r $41-60; wi-fi) is close to the center. Rooms are basic, but the welcome is warm. Among several good restaurants, the Ironhorse CafГ© & Bar (250-877-7870; 3700 Railway Ave; mains $7-15; 9am-9pm; wi-fi) serves great coffees and meals inside and out of the old train station.

South and west of Smithers, after 146km you pass through Burns Lake, the center of a popular fishing district. After another 128km at Vanderhof, Hwy 27 heads 66km north to Fort St James National Historic Site (250-996-7191; adult/child $7/3.50; 9am-5pm May-Sep), a former Hudson’s Bay Company trading post that’s on the tranquil southeastern shore of Stuart Lake and has been restored to its 1896 glory. From Vanderhof it’s an uneventful 100km to Prince George.


Return to beginning of chapter

PRINCE GEORGE

Trees – dead ones – are what Prince George is all about. A lumber town since 1807, it is a vital BC crossroads and you’re unlikely to visit the north without passing through at least once. To this end it has scores of motels and services. The downtown, no beauty-contest winner, is compact and has some good eateries. Still, you’ll do well to nab your 40 winks, enjoy some chow and hit the road.



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LOCAL VOICE

Hilary Crowly, long-time resident of BC’s north, a physiotherapist, hunter and Green Party candidate for parliament



Many people think that Prince George is remote. In fact we’re close to the geographical center of the province. The main industry is logging but we’ve been devastated by the pine beetle epidemic. Loggers are cutting the dead trees as fast as they can, but the industry is in trouble. Many small towns here were built on logging; some may die. Mining could replace logging but it hurts the environment and that’s the paradox: we need the money it produces for schools and health care.



Getting outdoors is our real joy. We ski, kayak, hike almost every day. Just the other day we saw a large wolf in the distance and heard the plaintive distress call of a cow moose.



It’s a great place to live if you’re self-sufficient. One moose a year plus salmon and trout provide all our meat. We garden during the short growing season but that comes with challenges: we’ve seen sows with as many as four cubs sniffing around our apple trees during the summer. It is always a race to see if we can pick all the apples before the bear have their fill.





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Note that the region is filled with trees that have died before the loggers even got near. These bright red specimens line the hills and are victims of mountain pine beetles, whose explosive population growth is linked to comparatively milder winters due to global warming.

Orientation

Hwy 97 from the south cuts through the center of town on its way north to Dawson Creek (360km) and the Alaska Hwy. Hwy 16 becomes Victoria St as it runs through town westward to Prince Rupert (724km), and east to Jasper (380km) and Edmonton. The downtown area is small. Victoria St is the main road, crossed by the east–west 2nd, 3rd and 4th Aves.

Information



Books & Company (250-563-6637; 1685 3rd Ave; 8am-6pm Mon, Wed & Sat, 8am-9pm Thu, 8am-10pm Fri, 10am-5pm Sun; wi-fi) Good selection and a fine cafГ©.

Prince George Library (Bob Harkins Branch; 250-563-9251; 887 Dominion St, Civic Centre; 10am-9pm Mon-Thu, 10am-5:30pm Fri & Sat, 1-5pm Sun Sep-May) One hour free internet access.

Visitor Centre Station (250-562-3700, 800-668-7646; www.tourismpg.com; VIA Rail Station, 1300 1st Ave; 8am-8pm May-Sep, 8:30am-5pm Oct-Apr); Branch (250-563-5493; Hwy 97 & Hwy 16; 8am-8pm May-Aug) The train-station location is a fine facility that can make bookings for ferry tickets etc. Internet access $3.50 per 30 minutes.



Sights

Exploration Place (250-562-1612; Fort George Park; adult/child $9/6; 10am-5pm Jun-Aug, 10am-5pm Wed-Sun Sep-May), southeast of downtown (follow 20th Ave east of Gorse St), has various kid-friendly galleries devoted to science plus natural and cultural history.

Cottonwood Island Nature Park has walks alongside the river and is home to the small Prince George Railway & Forest Industry Museum (250-563-7351; 850 River Rd; adult/child $6/5; 10am-5:30pm mid-May–mid-Oct) which honors choo-choos, the beaver and local lore. For active pursuits, get yourself a copy of Exploring Prince George, a great guidebook to local trails and more.

Sleeping

A few motels downtown are decent but places near the train station are not recommended. Hwy 97/Central St makes an arc around the center, where you’ll find legions of motels.

The Bed & Breakfast Hotline (250-562-2222, 877-562-2626; www.princegeorgebnb.com) arranges bookings in your price range (from $50 to $100). The association also provides transportation from the train or bus station.

Bee Lazee Campground (250-963-7263, 866-679-6699; www.beelazee.ca; 15910 Hwy 97S; campsite $15-23; May-Sep; ) About 10km south of town, this RV-centric place features full facilities, including free hot showers, a pool and laundry.

97 Motor Inn (250-562-6010; 2713 Spruce St; r $60-70; wi-fi) No points for guessing that this budget place is on Hwy 97, near the junction with Hwy 16. The 19 rooms have free wi-fi and some have balconies and/or kitchens.

Economy Inn (250-563-7106, 888-566-6333; www.economyinn.ca; 1550 1915 3rd Ave; r $60-70; wi-fi) Close to the center, this simple blue-and-white motel has 30 clean rooms and a whirlpool. Celebrate your savings with a Dairy Queen dip cone across the street.



Esther’s Inn (250-562-4131, 800-663-6844; www.esthersinn.com; 1151 Commercial Cres; r $60-100; ) Do you seek a tiki? The faux Polynesian theme extends through the 120 rooms. Have hot times in the three Jacuzzis.

Eating & Drinking

Thanh Vu (250-564-2255; 1778 Hwy 97 S; mains $8-15; 11am-9pm) This local favorite is situated out on the Hwy 97 strip. The Vietnamese food is tasty and fresh – its better than most Asian food you’ll find north of greater Vancouver.

Africa Café (250-561-1212; 1645 15th Ave; mains $6-12; 11am-9pm) Who would have thought, an African-themed café in PG? And it’s good. Enjoy samosas, stews, fried cassava and much more in this cheery storefront.

White Goose Bistro (250-561-1002; 1205 3rd Ave; mains $8-25; 11:30-10pm) This excellent bistro has staked out a corner right downtown. Casual continental fare is the order at lunch. In the evening, it’s classics such as roast lamb and favorites like ravioli stuffed with lobster.

Cimo (250-564-7975; 601 Victoria St; meals $10-25; noon-2pm Mon-Fri, 5-10pm Mon-Thu, until 11pm Fri & Sat) Service is as smooth as the live jazz heard here many nights. Enjoy excellent Mediterranean dishes in the stylish interior or out on the patio. It’s also good for a glass of wine.

The Prince George farmers’ market (cnr George St & 3rd Ave; 8:30am-2pm Sat May-Sep) is a good place to sample some of the array of local foods and produce.

Getting There & Away

Prince George airport (YXS; 250-963-2400; www.pgairport.ca) is on Airport Rd off Hwy 97. Air Canada Jazz (www.aircanada.com) serves Calgary and Vancouver; Westjet (www.westjet.com) serves the latter.

Greyhound Canada (800-661-8747; www.greyhound.ca; 1566 12th Ave) runs west to Prince Rupert ($107, 11 hours, one daily), northeast to Dawson Creek ($71, six hours, two daily), east to Jasper ($64, five hours, two daily) and south to Vancouver ($116, 12 hours, three daily) via Hwy 97.

VIA Rail’s (1300 1st Ave) Skeena heads west three times a week to Prince Rupert (12½ hours) and east three times a week to Jasper (7½ hours) and further east. Through passengers must overnight in Prince George.

Getting Around

Prince George Transit (250-563-0011; www.busonline.ca; fare $2) operates local buses. Major car rental agencies have offices at the airport. For a cab, try Prince George Taxi (250-564-4444).


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PRINCE GEORGE TO ALBERTA

An unexciting, 380km stretch of Hwy 16 links Prince George with Jasper, just over the Alberta border. The only attraction along the route actually abuts Jasper National Park, but on the BC side of the border. Mt Robson Provincial Park (250-964-2243; www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks; campsites $17) has steep glaciers, prolific wildlife and backcountry hiking that are unfortunately over-shadowed by its famous neighbor.


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STEWART-CASSIAR HIGHWAY

Like the promises of a politician, the Stewart-Cassiar Hwy (Hwy 37) just gets better each year. But unlike those promises, it’s not full of holes. Much improved, this 700km road is a viable and ever-more-popular route between BC and the Yukon and Alaska (Click here). But it’s more than just a means to get from Hwy 16 (Meziadin Junction) in BC to the Alaska Hwy in the Yukon (7km west of Watson Lake), it’s a window onto one of the largest remaining wild and wooly parts of the province. And it’s the road to the Stewart, the very worthwhile detour to glaciers and more (see boxed text, below).

Less than 10% of the road is unsealed gravel and it’s appropriate for all vehicles. At any point you should not be surprised to see bear, moose and other large mammals.

There’s never a distance greater than 150km between gas stations and you’ll find the occasional lodge and campground. But note that many places keep erratic hours and are only open in summer. The Stewart-Cassiar Tourism Council (866-417-3737; www.stewartcassiar.com) is a good source of info. BC provides road condition reports (250-771-3000, 250-771-4511; www.drivebc.ca). When it’s dry in summer, people drive from Stewart or even Smithers to Watson Lake in a single day, taking advantage of the long hours of daylight. But this a real haul, so prepare.

Dease Lake, 488km north of Meziadin Junction, is the largest town and has year-round motels, stores and services.



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WORTH THE TRIP: STEWART & HYDER

Awesome. Yes it’s almost an automatic cliché, but when you gaze upon the Salmon Glacier, you’ll understand why it was coined in the first place. This horizon-spanning expanse of ice is more than enough reason to make the 67km detour off Hwy 37; the turn is 158km north of Meziadin Junction. In fact, your first confirmation comes when you encounter the iridescent blue expanse of the Bear Glacier looming over the road on the way into town.



The sibling border towns of Stewart, BC and Hyder, Alaska sit on the coast at the head of the Portland Canal. Stewart, the more business-like of the pair, has the Visitor Centre (250-636-9224, 888-366-5999; 222 5th Ave; 9am-6pm Jun-Sep, limited hrs winter) and excellent places to stay and eat.



Rainey Creek Campground (250-636-2537; 8th Ave; campsites $10-20) is a fine 98-site municipal campground. The King Edward Hotel & Motel (250-636-2244, 800-663-3126; www.kingedwardhotel.com; 405 5th Ave; r $60-100; wi-fi) has 65 motel-style rooms.



The real star, however, is the Ripley Creek Inn (250-636-2344; www.ripleycreekinn.com; 306 5th Ave; r $50-120; wi-fi). The 32 rooms are stylishly decorated with new and old items and there’s a huge collection of vintage toasters (!) and the excellent Bitter Creek Café.



Hyder ekes out an existence as a вЂ˜ghost town.’ Some 40,000 tourists come through every summer avoiding any border hassle from US Customs officers because there aren’t any (although going back to Stewart you’ll pass through Canadian customs). It has muddy streets and two businesses of note: the Glacier Inn, a bar you’ll enjoy if you ignore the touristy вЂ˜get Hyderized’ shot-swilling shtick and Seafood Express, which has the tastiest seafood ever cooked in a school bus (this is Hyder).



The Salmon Glacier is 33km beyond Hyder, up a winding dirt road that’s okay for cars when it’s dry. Some 3km into the drive, you’ll pass the Fish Creek viewpoint, an area alive with bear and doomed salmon in late summer.





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Among the many natural wonders, Spatsizi Plateau Provincial Wilderness Park (250-771-4591; www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks) is accessed by a rough, 28km gravel road from Tatogga, about 150km north of Meziadin Junction. The park is undeveloped and isolated. The trails are often little more than vague notions across the untouched landscape. You’ll need to be both highly experienced and self-sufficient to tackle this one.



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NORTH TO ALASKA (AND THE YUKON)

From BC there are three main ways to go north (or south!) by vehicle. All are potentially good choices, so you have several ways of creating a circle itinerary to the Yukon (Click here) and possibly Alaska.



Alaska Highway

Fabled and historic, the Alaska Hwy (below) from its start point in Dawson City (364km northeast of Prince George) through northeast BC to Watson Lake (944km) is being somewhat eclipsed by the Cassiar Hwy. Still, it’s an epic drive even if the early sections are bland. The stretch from Dawson Creek is most convenient for those coming from Edmonton and the east.



Stewart-Cassiar Highway

The Stewart-Cassiar (Hwy 37; Click here) runs 700km through wild scenery from the junction with Hwy 16 240km east of Prince Rupert and 468km west of Prince George. A side trip to the incomparable glaciers around Stewart (Click here) is easy. This route is convenient for people from most of BC, Alberta and the western US. It ends at the Alaska Hwy near Watson Lake in the Yukon.



Alaska Marine Highway System

Our Recommendation

An Alaska Ferry between Prince Rupert and Haines one way and Hwy 37 the other.





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Boya Lake Provincial Park (250-771-4591; www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks; campsites $14) is less than 90km from the provincial border, This serene little park surrounds Boya Lake, which seems to glow turquoise. You can camp on the shore.


Return to beginning of chapter

ALASKA HIGHWAY

As you travel north from Prince George along Hwy 97, the mountains and forests give way to gentle rolling hills and farmland. Nearing Dawson Creek (360km) the landscape resembles the prairies of Alberta. There’s no need to dawdle.

From Chetwynd you can take scenic Hwy 29 north via Hudson’s Hope to join the Alaska Hwy north of Fort St John.

Dawson Creek is notable as the starting point (Mile 0) for the Alaska Hwy but not much else. However, it has a fair range of accommodations and the Visitor Centre (250-782-9595, 866-645-3022; www.tourismdawsoncreek.com; 900 Alaska Ave; 7am-6:30pm May-Aug, 9am-5pm Tue-Sat Sep-Apr) has the usual listings of accommodations. Note that this corner of BC stays on Mountain Standard Time year-round, so in winter the time is the same as Alberta, one hour later than BC. In summer the time is the same as Vancouver.

Heading northwest from Dawson Creek, Fort St John is a stop best not started, in fact the entire 430km to Fort Nelson gives little hint of the wonders to come.

Fort Nelson’s Visitor Centre (250-774-2541; www.northernrockies.org; 5500 50th Ave N; 8am-8pm May-Sep, 8:30am-4:30pm Mon-Fri Oct-Apr) has good regional information for the drive ahead. The town itself is in the midst of a boom brought on by the exploitation of the region’s vast oil-filled lands. This is the last place of any size on the Alaska Hwy – most вЂ˜towns’ along the route are little more than a gas station and motel or two.

Around 140km northwest of Fort Nelson Stone Mountain Provincial Park (250-427-5452; www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks; campsites $14) has hiking trails with backcountry camping and a campground. The moose in the park can often be seen eating nonchalantly by the side of the road.

A further 75km brings you to Muncho Lake Provincial Park, centered on the emerald-green lake of the same name, and boasting spruce forests, vast rolling mountains and some truly breathtaking scenery. There are two campgrounds (campsites $14) by the lake, plus a few lodges scattered along the highway through the park, including Northern Rockies Lodge (250-776-3481, 800-663-5269; www.northern-rockies-lodge.com; site from $35, r $80-200), which also has a restaurant.

Finally, Liard River Hot Springs Provincial Park (250-427-5452; www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks) has a steamy ecosystem that allows a whopping 250 species of plants to thrive (and, after a long day in the car, you will too, in the soothing waters). The park’s campground (800-689-9025; www.discovercamping.ca; campsites $17) has 52 campsites. From here it’s 220km to Watson Lake and the Yukon.




Return to beginning of chapter





Yukon Territory





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WHITEHORSE

ORIENTATION & INFORMATION

SIGHTS

ACTIVITIES

TOURS

SLEEPING

EATING

DRINKING

GETTING THERE & AWAY

GETTING AROUND

ALASKA HIGHWAY

BC TO WHITEHORSE

WHITEHORSE TO ALASKA

HAINES HIGHWAY

HAINES (ALASKA)

KLONDIKE HIGHWAY

SKAGWAY (ALASKA)

CHILKOOT TRAIL

CARCROSS

WHITEHORSE TO CARMACKS

CARMACKS

MINTO

STEWART CROSSING

DAWSON CITY

ORIENTATION

INFORMATION

SIGHTS

ACTIVITIES

TOURS

FESTIVALS & EVENTS

SLEEPING

EATING

DRINKING

ENTERTAINMENT

GETTING THERE & AWAY

DAWSON CITY TO ALASKA

DEMPSTER HIGHWAY

ARCTIC PARKS

VUNTUT NATIONAL PARK

IVVAVIK NATIONAL PARK

HERSCHEL ISLAND (QIQIKTARUK) TERRITORIAL PARK



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The name Yukon is evocative as well as descriptive: adventure, the far north, wilderness, moose. How can you even hear вЂ˜Yukon’ and not feel a stirring within? And for good reason. This vast and thinly populated wilderness – most species far outnumber humans – has a grandeur and beauty only appreciated by experience. You can’t just pop in and go вЂ˜neat!’ Getting here is part of the thrill and even the roads have their own lore.

Few places in the world today are so unchanged over the course of time. Aboriginal people, having eeked out survival for thousands of years, hunt and trap as they always have. The Klondike Gold Rush of 1898 was the Yukon’s high point of population yet even its heritage is ephemeral, easily erased by time.

Any visit will mean much time outdoors. Whether it’s treks into Kluane National Park, canoe expeditions down the Yukon River or Arctic explorations in the north, it will be you and the Yukon. Yes, the summers are short, but like the explosion of wildflowers in July, they are intense, magnified under the near-constant light. Fall comes early but with its own burst of color as leaves turn shocking shades of gold and crimson. In winter, you’ll understand why so many would never leave. Days of utter quiet to contemplate a snowy solitude. You’ll also appreciate the people, who find freedom to be themselves in a land where there are few to judge. Join the offbeat vibe of Dawson City, the bustle of Whitehorse and the unique character of villages throughout. Find your own meanings of the Yukon.



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HIGHLIGHTS



Spend an extra day in surprising Whitehorse, where culture abounds

Count moose on the Klondike Highway, they may outnumber cars

Get caught up in the modern vibe of Dawson City, Canada’s funkiest historic town

Live the dream of kayakers and canoeists by paddling the legendary Yukon River

Lose yourself – not literally! – in Tombstone Territorial Park, where the grandeur of the north envelopes you





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History

There’s evidence that humans were eating animals in the Yukon some 15,000 to 30,000 years ago, depending on your carbon-dating method of choice. However, it’s widely agreed that these people were descended from those who crossed over today’s Siberia while the land bridge was in place. There’s little recorded history otherwise, although it’s known that a volcanic eruption in AD 800 covered much of the southern Yukon in ash. Similarities to the Athapaskan people of the southwest US have suggested that these groups may have left the Yukon after the volcano ruined hunting and fishing.

In the 1840s Robert Campbell, a Hudson’s Bay Company explorer, was the first European to travel the district. Fur traders, prospectors, whalers and missionaries all followed. In 1870 the region became part of the Northwest Territories (NWT). But it was in 1896 when the Yukon literally hit the map after gold was found in a tributary of the Klondike River near what was to become Dawson City. The ensuing gold rush attracted upwards of 40,000 hopefuls from around the world. Towns sprouted overnight to support the numerous wealth-seekers, who were quite unprepared for the ensuing depravities (see boxed text).

In 1898 the Yukon became a separate territory, with Dawson City as its capital. Building the Alaska Hwy (Hwy 1) in 1942 opened up the territory to development. In 1953 Whitehorse became the capital, because it had the railway and the highway. Mining continues to be the main industry, followed by tourism.

Local Culture

The 30,000-plus hardy souls who live in the Yukon Territory take the phrase вЂ˜rugged individualists’ to heart. It’s hard to stereotype but safe to say that the average Yukoner enjoys the outdoors (in all weather conditions!), relishes eating meats seldom found on menus to the south and has a crack in their truck’s windshield (caused by one of the many dodgy roads).

Of course the independence of Yukoners comes at a price to the rest of Canada. More than 70% of the territory’s annual revenue each year comes from the federal government and it has been used to fund all manner of services at relatively comfortable levels. Whitehorse, for instance, has a range of cultural and recreational facilities that are the envy of southern Canadian communities many times its size. More than 5000 people have government jobs.



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YUKON FACTS



Population 32,000

Area 483,450 sq km

Territorial Capital Whitehorse

Nickname Land of the Midnight Sun

Birthplace of author Pierre Burton (1920–2004), gold discoverer Keish, aka Skookum Jim (1855–1916), the Alaska Hwy (1942) and White Fang, star of the Jack London novel (1906).

Home to Robert Service, the poet who immortalized the Yukon through works like The Shooting of Dan McGrew and The Cremation of Sam McGee, 68,000 moose

Most common amphibian the tree frog, found throughout the territory and thought to be a healing shaman in aboriginal lore.





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Thanks to the Yukon’s long isolation before WWII, the 14 First Nations groups have maintained their relationship to the land and their traditional culture, compared to groups forced to assimilate in other parts of Canada. They can be found across the territory and in isolated places like Old Crow living lives not fundamentally changed in centuries. It’s not uncommon to hear various aboriginal dialects spoken by elders.

Light – or the lack thereof – does play an important role in local life. Many people adjust to the radical variations in daylight through the year just fine but others do not. Every year you hear of long-time residents and newcomers alike who one day (often in February) announced enough was enough and moved south for good.

Land & Climate

The land seems to ripple in the Yukon. Unlike the broad plains of the NWT to the east, the Yukon consists of a series of mountain ranges separated by wide valleys. The iconic Yukon River links the two main population centers, Whitehorse and Dawson. The real drama is in the southeast where the St Elias Mountains span the territory. Canada’s five tallest mountains are here as are the world’s largest icefields below the Arctic, all within Kluane National Park.





Summers, spanning June, July and August, are short but warm, even hot, with occasional thunderstorms. Many places are only open from May to September because, outside of these months, visitors are few, winters are long, dark and cold and many summer residents head south.

On average there are 19 hours of daylight each day in Whitehorse during July, and only six in January.

Parks & Wildlife

The Yukon has a major Unesco World Heritage site. Raw and forbidding, Kluane National Park sits solidly within the Yukon abutting Tatshenshini-Alsek Provincial Park in British Columbia (BC), while Glacier Bay and Wrangell-St Elias national parks are found in adjoining Alaska.

The Yukon has four territorial parks (www.yukonparks.ca), but much of the territory itself is parklike and government campgrounds can be found throughout. Tombstone Territorial Park is both remote yet accessible via the Dempster Hwy, so that you can absorb the horizon-sweeping beauty of the tundra and majesty of vast mountain ranges.

Hiking and kayaking/canoeing are big during the short summers while everybody has a set of skis for cross-country treks during the long winters.

Information

There are excellent visitor information centers (VICs) covering every entry point in the Yukon: Beaver Creek, Carcross, Dawson City, Haines Junction, Watson Lake and Whitehorse.

Thanks to its generous support by the Canadian taxpayer, the Yukon government produces enough literature and information to supply a holiday’s worth of reading. Among the highlights are Camping on Yukon Time, Art Adventures on Yukon Time and lavish walking guides to pretty much every town with a population greater than 50. Start your collection at the various visitor centers or hop online (www.travelyukon.com). Another good internet resource is www.yukoninfo.com.

A great way to read iconic classics about the Yukon by Jack London (think Call of the Wild) free online is at www.online-literature.com.

Getting There & Around

There are three major ways to reach the Yukon with your vehicle (Click here): by ferry to the entry points of Skagway and Haines, Alaska, by the Alaska Hwy from Dawson Creek, BC, and by the Stewart-Cassiar Hwy from northwest BC that joins the Alaska Hwy neat Watson Lake.

Whitehorse is linked by air to Vancouver, Edmonton, Calgary, Alaska and the NWT. There are even flights direct to Germany during summer. Dawson City has flights to Inuvik in the NWT and to Alaska.



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YUKON TERRITORY ITINERARIES

Four Days

Do a short loop through the territory. Enter via the Alaska Hwy or Haines, Alaska and exit via the other. Along the way, spend a full day in Whitehorse (opposite), soaking up the culture of this surprising northern metropolis. Along the way take a detour via Carcross, the tiny Klondike Gold Rush-era town. And be sure to pause in Haines Junction where numerous day hikes will take you into the Unesco-listed scenery of Kluane National Park.



Seven Days

The Yukon naturally lends itself to one great circle drive. Enter at Skagway, Alaska where you soon escape the cruise-ship day-trippers and enter a rugged land documented by Jack London. Follow the Klondike Hwy to lively Whitehorse (opposite) and from there continue due north to Dawson City. Spend at least two days in this national park site being alternatively transported back to the gold rush while partying in the present. Follow the Top of the World Hwy (Hwy 9) across mountain tops to the Alaskan border and connect down through the US and onto the Alaska Hwy in the Yukon at Beaver Creek. Turn south at Haines Junction and experience several changes of scenery in only 175km on the Haines Hwy before ending your journey at Haines, Alaska.





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* * *



ONLY IN THE YUKON

Certain details about the Yukon are different from the rest of Canada. Important ones are:





Police 867-667-5555

Medical emergencies 867-667-3333, in Whitehorse 911

Road condition information 877-456-7623; www.gov.yk.ca/roadreport

Territory campgrounds cannot be reserved but number more than 50 along most Yukon roads. The fee at all campgrounds is $12 per site per night.

Discovery Day Yukon-wide holiday celebrating the discovery of gold near Dawson City in 1896 (third Monday in August).





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You can reach Whitehorse from BC by bus. From there a patchwork of companies provides links to Skagway, Dawson and Alaska. Rental cars (and RVs) are not only expensive but only available in Whitehorse. The Alaska Hwy and Klondike Hwy are paved and have services every 100km to 200km.


Return to beginning of chapter


WHITEHORSE

pop 23,800

The leading city and capital of the Yukon, Whitehorse is also likely to have a prominent role in your trip. The territory’s two great highways, the Alaska and the Klondike, cross here; it’s a hub for transport. You’ll find all manner of outfitters and services for explorations across the territory. Most of its residents have government-related jobs they flee for the outdoors no matter what the season.

Utility aside, Whitehorse can delight. It has a well-funded arts community, good restaurants and a range of motels. Exploring the sights within earshot of the rushing Yukon River can easily take a day or more. Look past bland commercial buildings and you’ll see a fair number of heritage ones awaiting your discovery.

Whitehorse has always been a transportation hub, first as terminus for the White Pass & Yukon Route railway from Skagway in the early 1900s. During World War II it was a major center for work on the Alaska Hwy. In 1953, Whitehorse was made the capital of the territory to the continuing regret of much smaller and isolated Dawson City.


Return to beginning of chapter

ORIENTATION & INFORMATION

Whitehorse sits just off the Alaska Hwy. The old downtown is compact, the main traffic routes are 2nd and 4th Aves. A vast wasteland of chain stores has appeared north of the center. Among local newspapers, the Yukon News is feisty and definitely not a bland booster.



Bookstores



Mac’s Fireweed Books (867-668-2434; www.yukonbooks.com; 203 Main St; 8am-midnight May-Sep, 8am-9pm Oct-Apr) Superb selection of local titles. It also carries topographical maps, road maps, magazines and newspapers.

Well-Read Books (867-393-2987; cnr Jarvis St & 4th Ave; 9am-6pm Mon-Sat, 10am-5pm Sun) New location with a huge range of used books.



Laundry



Norgetown (867-667-6113; 4213 4th Ave; 8am-9pm) Loads from $3.50, also drop-off service and internet terminals.



Library



Whitehorse Library (867-667-5239; 2071 2nd Ave; 10am-9pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat, 1-9pm Sun) Free internet access for 15 minutes.



Medical Services



Whitehorse General Hospital (867-393-8700; 5 Hospital Rd; 24hr)



Post



Post office (867-667-2485; Shoppers Drug Mart, 211 Main St; 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 11am-4pm Sat)



Tourist Information



VIC (867-667-3084; 100 Hanson St; 8am-8pm May–mid-Sep, 9am-4:30pm Mon-Fri mid-Sep–May) Has territory-wide information, possibly more than you can carry.




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SIGHTS

Museums

The carefully restored SS Klondike (867-667-4511; South Access Rd & 2nd Ave; adult/child $6/2; 9am-5pm mid-May–mid-Sep) was one of the largest sternwheelers used on the Yukon River. Built in 1937, it made its final run upriver to Dawson in 1955 and is now a national historic site. Try not to wish it was making the run now.

The Yukon’s attic, the MacBride Museum (867-667-2709; cnr 1st Ave & Wood St; adult/child $7/3.50; 9am-6pm mid-May–Sep, noon-4pm Tue-Sat Oct–mid-May) covers the gold rush, First Nations, intrepid Mounties and more. Old photos vie with old stuffed critters, all under a sod roof.

A downtown gem, the 1900 old log church (867-668-2555; 303 Elliott St; adult/child $3/free; 10am-6pm mid-May–Aug) is the only log-cabin-style cathedral in the world. Displays include the compelling story of Rev Isaac Stringer who boiled and ate his boots while lost in the wilderness for 51 days. Fittingly, all that’s left is his sole.

Highly recommended, the Yukon Beringia Interpretive Centre (867-667-8855; www.beringia.com; Km1473 Alaska Hwy; adult/child $6/4; 9am-6pm) focuses on Beringia, a mostly ice-free area that encompassed the Yukon, Alaska and eastern Siberia during the last ice age. Engaging exhibits re-create the time, right down to the giant beaver by the door. It’s just south of the airport.

Hey tenderfoot, find out what the Alaska Hwy was really like back in the day at the Yukon Transportation Museum (867-668-4792; 30 Electra Circle; adult/child $6/3; 10am-6pm May-Aug). Let’s just say mud was a dirty word. Exhibits cover planes, trains and dog-sleds. It adjoins the Beringia Centre.



Waterfront

One look at the majestic Yukon River and you’ll understand why the waterfront is being reborn. The beautiful White Pass & Yukon Route Station (Front St) has been restored and anchors the area. Next door, the Old Fire Hall (867-333-4255; Front St) has sales by local artists and live performances of music and comedy on a shifting schedule.

At the north end of the waterfront, the new Shipyards Park has a growing collection of historic structures gathered territory-wide and a skateboard track and toboggan hill. Linking it all is a cute little waterfront trolley (adult/child $2/free; 9am-9pm May-Sep).

Whitehorse Fishway

Stare down a salmon at the Whitehorse Fishway (867-633-5965; admission $2; 9am-9pm Jun-Aug), a 366m wooden fish ladder (world’s longest) past the hydroelectric plant just south of town. Large viewing windows let you see chinook salmon swim past starting in late July (before that it’s grayling). Outside amidst the thunderous roar of the river’s spillway, there’s usually a tent where you can learn about the ingenious traditional aboriginal fishing methods. Note that salmon counts and average sizes are decreasing, another feared result of global warming.

The fishway is easily reached on foot from town; see right.

Art Galleries

Whitehorse is at the center of the Yukon’s robust arts community.

Arts Underground (867-667-4080; Hougen Centre lower level, 305 Main St; 9am-5:30pm Mon-Sat) is run by the Yukon Arts Society. There are carefully selected and well-mounted rotating exhibits.

The name says it all. Yukon Artists @ Work (867-393-4848; 3B Glacier Dr; noon-5pm daily Jun-Aug, Fri-Sun Sep-May) has the creations of 35 local artists, some of whom may be busy creating when you visit. It’s in a warehouse 10km south of the airport.


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ACTIVITIES

The VIC can guide you to numerous local hikes and activities year-round. Otherwise, Whitehorse is a major outfitting center for adventures on Yukon waterways.

Canoeing & Kayaking

Whitehorse is the starting place for popular canoe and kayak trips to Carmacks or on to Dawson City. It’s an average of eight days to the former and 16 days to the latter. Many people get transportation here to their desired put-in point.

Kanoe People (867-668-4899; www.kanoepeople.com; cnr 1st Ave & Strickland St), is right at the river’s edge and can arrange guided and unguided trips (canoe/kayak to Carmacks $205/275; to Dawson City $350/495), which include orientation and transportation. There’s a range of gear, maps and guides for sale. Custom trips can be arranged.

Up North Adventures (867-667-7035; www.up north.yk.ca; 103 Strickland St) offers similar services and competitive prices; staff speak German. In winter it offers snowmobile treks.

Cycling

Whitehorse has scores of bike trails along the Yukon River and into the surrounding hills. The VIC has maps. For bike rentals, try Philippe’s Bicycle Repair (867-633-5600; 508 Wood St) which has good used bikes from $10 per day (or $50 for the entire summer!). It’s also the place to take your bike for any kind of work.

Walking & Hiking

You can walk a scenic 5km loop around Whitehorse’s waters that includes a stop at the fishway. From the SS Klondike head south on the waterfront footpath until you reach the Robert Service Campground and the Rotary Centennial Footbridge over the river. The fishway (left) is just south. Head north along the water and cross the Robert Campbell Bridge and you are back in the town center.



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ANNOYANCES BIG & SMALL

Talk to an unexpectedly encountered bear in a calm voice (вЂ˜Do you know Yogi?’ might break the ice) is but one of the myriad suggestions for dealing with outdoor hazards in the government booklet Into the Yukon Wilderness. It’s invaluable and available at any visitor information center.



One pest, however, doesn’t require you to bone up in order to avoid being boned: mosquitoes are ravenous all summer long and come in 25 local varieties. Click here for ways to avoid getting bit. And ponder the question, what do the ravenous buggers eat when you’re not there?





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TOURS

The Yukon Historical & Museums Association (867-667-4704; 3126 3rd Ave; admission $2; 10am-4pm Mon-Sat Jun-Aug) offers quirky and interesting downtown walking tours four times daily. Meet at their office in the 1904 Donneworth House. Ask your guide to show you the WWII-era American latrine that’s still not winning any hearts and minds.

Discover the natural beauty all around Whitehorse with a free (!) Yukon Conservation Society (867-668-5678; www.yukonconservation.org; 302 Hawkins St; 10am-4pm Mon-Fri Jul & Aug) nature hike. There are 10 itineraries ranging from easy to hard.


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SLEEPING

Whitehorse gets busy in summer, so book. The VIC has lists of B&Bs and holiday homes. Most everything is open year-round.

Wal-Mart has proven to be a disruptive influence here as elsewhere. Steadfastly sticking to its corporate policy of letting RVers (primarily from the US) overnight for free in its parking lot has been a financial disaster for local RV parks. Worse, there’s been a real increase in waste discharging by the side of Yukon roads since people started sticking their $250,000 rigs in the dusty Wal-Mart lot.

Budget

There are several RV campgrounds on the Alaska Hwy near the airport.

Robert Service Campground (867-668-3721; sercamp@hotmail.com; Robert Service Way; sites $16; May-Sep; wi-fi) This delightful tents-only 69-site campground along the river is just 1km south of town along the South Access Rd. It has firepits, a cafГ© and a small store.

Beez Kneez Bakpakers (867-456-2333; www.bzkneez.com; 408 Hoge St; dm/r $25/50; wi-fi) Like the home you’ve left behind, this cheery hostel has a garden, deck, grill and free bikes. But there’s no TV, so you can join the international vibe.

Hide on Jeckell Guesthouse (867-633-4933; www.hide-on-jeckell.com; 410 Jeckell St; dm/r $25/50; wi-fi) Board games and books may keep you inside, the hot tub may keep you outside. Gardens and bikes are further amenities at this slightly suburban setting dead close to downtown.

Midrange

Whitehorse has loads of motels, but choose carefully as some are past their sell-by date. The ones here are not.

Stratford Motel (867-667-4243; www.thestrat fordmotel.com; 401 Jarvis St; r $80-110; ) Tidy just begins to describe this two-story place with 49 standard motel rooms. There’s a coin laundry all year and flowers galore in summer.

Town & Mountain Hotel (867-668-7644, 800-661-0522; www.townmountain.com; 401 Main St; r $90-160; wi-fi) To be any more central, you’d have to sleep in the middle of the street. (Lonely Planet advises against this.) Family-owned, this three-story hotel has 30 rooms right out of the motel furniture catalogue.

High Country Inn (867-667-4471, 800-554-4471; www.highcountryinn.ca; 4051 4th Ave; r $90-200; wi-fi) Towering over Whitehorse (OK it has four stories), the High Country caters to business travelers and high-end groups. The 84 rooms are large – some have huge whirlpools right by the bed, a feature the hotel correctly says could make your stay вЂ˜memorable.’

Edgewater Hotel (867-667-2572, 867-668-3014; www.edgewaterhotelwhitehorse.com; 101 Main St; r $100-180; ) Much updated, the Edgewater has a dash of style. The 30 rooms are smallish (some lack air-con) but have high-speed internet and flat-screen TVs. Better rooms have river views.

River View Hotel (867-667-7801; www.riverviewhotel.ca; 102 Wood St; r $120-150; wi-fi) Recently renovated, many of the 53 rooms have the type of view implied by the name. Close to everything, yet on a quiet street, it’s a good choice.


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EATING

Ignore the influx of chains and enjoy one of Whitehorse’s excellent restaurants, most of which are in the center. There’s a great range on offer, look for fresh Yukon salmon in season.

Zola’s CafГ© DorГ© (867-668-5780; 305 Main St; snacks $2-6; 7am-9pm; ) A busy coffeehouse right in the center, Zola’s sums up the role of strong java in winter this way: вЂ˜Dark will fortify the coldest weather.’

Yukon Meat & Sausage (867-667-6077; 203 Hanson St; sandwiches $6; 9am-5:30pm Mon-Sat) A traditional deli with excellent take-out or eat-in sandwiches (you choose from about 100 options) and soups. There’s a range of house-smoked meats and gourmet foods perfect for provisioning.

Bocelli’s Pizzeria (867-667-4838; cnr 4th Ave & Alexander St; meals $8-16; noon-2pm Mon-Fri, 5-10pm daily) Every pizza here comes with homemade basil tomato sauce and a lash of garlic. Mama mia! The myriad of options includes pesto and shrimp. Eat in the small dining room or get it delivered.

Yukon Mining Co (867-667-6457; High Country Inn, 4051 4th Ave; meals $8-20; 11am-late Apr-Oct) A sprawling covered deck here gets mobbed with locals and visitors alike all through the season. Backed by a huge bar, diners choose from huge burgers, salads and steaks. This is one of the best places for fresh Yukon fish.

Sanchez Cantina (867-668-5858; 211 Hanson St; meals $10-20; 11:30am-3pm, 5-9:30pm) You have to head south across several borders to find Mexican this authentic. Among the surprising words on the menu are adobo, molГ©, pozolГ© and cevichГ©. It all comes from a compact, open kitchen. Enjoy drinks on the small patio.

Giorgio’s Cucina (867-668-4050; 206 Jarvis St; meals $15-35; 11:30am-2pm, 5-10pm) The best restaurant locally serves up inventive Italian fare along with fine steaks and seafood. Service is polished while the huge portions might just polish you off. Excellent wine list and desserts.

Self-catering choices include 3 Beans Natural Foods (867-668-4908; 308 Wood St; 10am-5:30pm Tue-Sat) which has a good range of organic foods. And just because the summer is short doesn’t mean that food doesn’t grow in the Yukon. The Fireweed Community Market (Shipyards Park; 3-8pm Thu mid-May–mid-Sep) draws vendors from the region. Berries are fabulous.


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DRINKING

Whitehorse has a fair number of grotty old boozers. But you can find delightful and atmospheric bars in the Edgewater Hotel and High Country Inn (see opposite). Look for the tasty brews of the local Yukon Brewing Co.

Coasters (867-633-2788; 206 Jarvis St; 3pm-late) Hidden in the pedestrian 202 Motor Inn, this surprisingly huge bar has one of the best staff in town. Energetic and fun, there are always specials at the bar and high jinks brewing in the back banquettes. There’s live music and comedy many nights; they get some good Vancouver bands. Sunday is open mike.


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GETTING THERE & AWAY

Whitehorse is the transportation hub of the Yukon.

Air

Whitehorse airport (YXY; 867-667-8440; www.gov.yk.ca) is five minutes west of downtown off the Alaska Hwy.

Whitehorse-based Air North (800-661-0407; www.flyairnorth.com) serves Dawson City, Old Crow, Inuvik in the NWT, Fairbanks in Alaska, and Vancouver, Edmonton and Calgary. Air Canada (888-247-2262; www.aircanada.com) serves Vancouver. Condor (800-364-1667, in Germany 01805 707 202; www.condor.com) has twice-weekly flights to/from Frankfurt in summer and First Air (800-267-1247; www.firstair.ca) flies to Yellowknife in the NWT.

Bus & Train

Bus services, er, come and go. It’s always good to check the latest with the VIC.

Alaska Direct Bus Line (867-668-4833; www.alaskadirectbusline.com; 501 Ogilvie St) offers a summer service to Dawson ($150, eight hours, twice weekly); Tok, Alaska (US$125, eight hours, three times weekly), via the Alaska Hwy and Haines Junction (US$60, two hours).

Greyhound Canada (867-667-2223, 800-661-8747; www.greyhound.ca; 2191 2nd Ave) reaches the end of the line in Whitehorse. Service south along the Alaska Hwy to Dawson Creek ($205, 21 hours, three times per week, April to October) connects with buses for the rest of BC and Canada.

White Pass & Yukon Route (Whitehorse ticket office, Front St) offers a delightful rail and bus connection to/from Skagway (adult/child US$106/53, four hours, one daily, May to mid-September). The transfer point is Fraser, BC.

Yukon Alaska Tourist Tours (867-668-4414; www.yatt.ca; 102 Lambert St) runs to Dawson on Friday in summer ($100, eight hours) and returns on Sunday; daily to Skagway (US$55, four hours, late May to early September).


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GETTING AROUND

To/From the Airport

Yellow Cab (867-668-4811) charges about $16 from the center for the 10-minute ride.

Bus

Whitehorse Transit System (867-668-7433; ticket $2; every 30-70min; Mon-Sat) has a transfer point at the Qwanlin Mall. Route 2 serves the airport, the center and the Robert Service Campground.

Car & RV

Budget (867-667-6200; www.budget.com), Hertz (867-668-4224; www.hertz.com) and National/NorCan (867-456-2277; www.national.com) are at the airport. Check your rate very carefully as it’s common for a mileage charge to be added after the first 100km, which will not get you far in the Yukon. Also understand your insurance coverage and whether damage from Yukon’s rugged roads is covered.

Fraserway RV Rentals (867-668-3438; www.fraserwayrvrentals.com; 9039 Quartz Rd) rents all shapes and sizes of RV from $80 to $250 per day depending on size (it matters) and season.

Whitehorse Subaru (867-393-6550; www.whitehorsesubaru.com; 17 Chilkoot Way) can usually beat the biggies on price, but don’t expect an Outback.


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ALASKA HIGHWAY

It may be called the Alaska Hwy but given that its longest stretch is in the Yukon (958km) perhaps another name is in order…

Roughly 2450km in length from Dawson Creek, BC, to Delta Junction, far inside Alaska, the Alaska Hwy has a meaning well beyond just a road. Sure it’s a way to get from point A to point B, but it’s also a badge, an honor, an accomplishment. How many highways in the world have T-shirts along the lines of вЂ˜I survived the Alaska Hwy!’? Even though today it’s a modern road, the very name still evokes images of big adventure and getting away from it all.

As you drive the Alaska Hwy in the Yukon know that you’re on the most scenic and varied part of the road. From little villages to the city of Whitehorse, from meandering rivers to the upthrust drama of the St Elias Mountains, the scenery will overwhelm you.


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BC TO WHITEHORSE

You’ll never be far from an excuse to stop on this stretch of the Alaska. Towns, small parks and various roadside attractions appear at regular intervals. None are massively compelling but overall it’s a pleasant drive. Click here for details of the Alaska Hwy in BC.

Watson Lake

Originally named after Frank Watson, a British trapper, Watson Lake is the first town in the Yukon on the Alaska Hwy and is just over the border from BC. It’s mostly a good rest stop except for the superb VIC (867-536-7469; www.watsonlake.ca; 8am-8pm summer), which has a good museum about the highway and a passel of territory-wide info. The town offers campgrounds, motels, full services and a Greyhound Canada stop.



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SCENIC DRIVE: ROBERT CAMPBELL HWY

To get right off the beaten path, consider this lonely gravel road (Hwy 4) which runs 588km from Watson Lake north and west to Carmacks where you can join the Klondike Hwy for Dawson City. Along its length, the highway parallels various rivers and lakes. Wilderness campers will be thrilled.



Ross River, 373km from Watson Lake at the junction with the Canol Rd (Hwy 6), is home to the Kaska First Nation and a supply center for the local mining industry. There are campgrounds and motels in town.





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The town is famous for its Sign Post Forest just outside the VIC. The first signpost, вЂ˜Danville, Illinois,’ was nailed up in 1942. Others were added and now there are 62,000 signs, many purloined late at night from municipalities worldwide.

Twenty-six kilometers west of Watson Lake is the junction with the Stewart-Cassiar Hwy (Hwy 37), which heads south into BC Click here. For a discussion of the various routes into the Yukon, Click here.

Just west of the junction, family-run Nugget City (867-536-2307, 888-536-2307; www.nuggetcity.com; campsites from $20, cabins from $80; wi-fi) has accommodations and food that’s three cuts above the Alaska Hwy norm. Stop just for the baked goods, especially the berry pie.

Another 110km west, past the 1112km marker, look for the Rancheria Falls Recreation Site. A boardwalk leads to powerful twin water falls. It’s an excellent stop.

Teslin

Teslin, on the long, narrow lake of the same name, is 272km west of Watson Lake. Long a home to the Tlingits (lin-kits), the Alaska Hwy brought both prosperity and rapid change to this aboriginal population. The engrossing George Johnston Museum (867-390-2550; Km 1294 Alaska Hwy; adult/child $5/3; 9am-5pm mid-May–early Sep) details the life and culture of a 20th-century Tlingits leader through photographs, displays and artifacts.

Johnson’s Crossing

Some 53km north of Teslin is Johnson’s Crossing, at the junction of the Alaska Hwy and Canol Rd (Hwy 6). During WWII the US army built the Canol pipeline at tremendous human and financial expense to pump oil from Norman Wells in the NWT to Whitehorse. Like any good military boondoggle, it was abandoned after countless hundreds of millions of dollars (in 1943 money no less) were spent.


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WHITEHORSE TO ALASKA

For long segments west of Whitehorse, the Alaska Hwy has been modernized to the point of blandness. Fortunately this ends abruptly in Haines Junction. From here the road parallels legendary Kluane National Forest and the St Elias Mountains. The 300km to Beaver Creek is the most scenic part of the entire highway.

Haines Junction

It’s goodbye flatlands when you reach Haines Junction and see the sweep of imposing peaks looming over town. You’ve reached the stunning Kluane National Park and this is the gateway. The town makes an excellent base for exploring the park or staging a serious four-star mountaineering, backcountry or river adventure. German travelers will hear their language spoken all over town.

The magnificent Haines Hwy heads south from here to Alaska.

Yukon Tourism and Parks Canada share the VIC (Yukon Tourism; 867-634-2345; www.hainesjunctionyukon.com; 8am-8pm Jun-Aug; Parks Canada 867-634-7250; www.parkscanada.gc.ca/kluane; Logan St; 10am-6pm mid-May–Aug, 10am-4pm Sep–mid-May) in the Kluane National Park headquarters building. There’s lots of info from the two agencies and a good model of the local terrain. In summer, rangers give regular nature talks.



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LET THERE BE HIGHWAY

Nowadays the aura of the Alaska Hwy is psychological rather than physical. In every way it’s a modern two-lane road, with smooth curves, broad sight lines and paving from one end to another. But that has not always been the case. A famous 1943 photo shows a jeep seemingly being sucked down to China through a morass of mud while soldiers look on helplessly.



With the outbreak of WWII, Canada and the US decided that years of debate should end and that a proper road was needed to link Alaska and the Yukon to the rest of Canada and the US.



That a road, any road, could be carved out of the raw tundra and wilderness of the north in a little over a year was a miracle. Although unlimited money and manpower (US soldiers and Canadian civilians, including Aboriginal people) helped. The 2450km gravel highway ran between Dawson Creek in BC and Fairbanks in Alaska. The route chosen for the highway followed a series of existing airfields – Fort St John, Fort Nelson, Watson Lake and Whitehorse – known as the Northwest Staging Route.



In April 1946 the Canadian section of the road (1965km) was officially handed over to Canada. In the meantime private contractors were busy widening, graveling and straightening the highway, leveling its steep grades and replacing temporary bridges with permanent steel ones – a process that has continued since, creating the modern road you drive today.



Known variously as the Alaskan International Hwy, the Alaska Military Hwy and the Alcan (short for Alaska-Canada) Hwy, it’s now called the Alaska Hwy. It has transformed both the Yukon and Alaska, opening up the north to year-round travel and forever changing the way of life of the First Nations along the route.



The Alaska Hwy begins at вЂ˜Mile 0’ in Dawson Creek in northeastern BC and goes to Fairbanks, Alaska, although the official end is at Delta Junction, about 155km southeast of Fairbanks.



Mileposts long served as reference points. But improvements shortening the road and Canada’s adoption of the metric system have made mileage references archaic. Historic numbers persist in the names of some businesses and attractions.



For more on the Alaska Hwy and its harrowing past, check out the visitor information center in Watson Lake (opposite) and the Yukon Transportation Museum in Whitehorse. For a minutely detailed guide to every feature including seemingly every pothole and moose-turd, look for the Milepost, a legendary annual publication.





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WORTH THE TRIP: CARCROSS

At Jake’s Corner 47km west of Johnson’s Crossing, you can detour off the Alaska Hwy via Hwy 8 to the Gold Rush-era town of Carcross. It’s well worth the extra 45km you’ll drive detouring off the stretch of the Alaska Hwy between Jake’s Corner and Whitehorse.





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All shops, lodging and services are clustered around the Alaska and Haines Hwys junction.

ACTIVITIES

The ridges surrounding Haines Junction don’t begin to hint at the beauty of Kluane National Park (right). Although the park should be your focus, there are some good activities in and around Haines Junction.

For a hike after hours of driving, there’s a pretty 5.5km nature walk along Dezadeash River where Hwy 3 crosses it at the south end of town.

Paddlewheel Adventures (867-634-2683; www.paddlewheeladventures.com; 116 Kathleen St), opposite the VIC, arranges Tatshenshini rafting trips ($125 per person, includes lunch), scenic float trips and guided interpretive hikes ($45 to $125). It rents mountain bikes or canoes ($25 per day) and provides local transportation.

Owned by a longtime park warden and guide, Kruda ChГ© Boat Tours (867-634-2378; www.krudache.com) will arrange any number of custom tours by boat and on foot within Kluane National Park. Wildlife, history and aboriginal culture are among the themes.

SLEEPING & EATING

There’s a cluster of motels and RV parks in Haines Junction. There’s a beach and shade at Pine Lake, a territorial campground 6km east of town on the Alaska Hwy. Cerulean waters highlight Kathleen Lake (sites $14), a Parks Canada campground 24km south on Haines Junction off the Haines Hwy.

Alcan Motor Inn (867-634-2371, 888-265-1018; www.alcanmotorinn.com; s/d $95-140; ) The modern two-story Alcan has 23 large rooms with great views of the jagged Auriol Range. Some have full kitchens and there’s a public coin laundry.

Raven Motel (867-634-2500; www.yukonweb.com/tourism/raven; 181 Alaska Hwy; r $120-150; wi-fi) There are 12 comfortable motel-style rooms here and guests can partake of a vast German-style break buffet. But the real star is the restaurant, which has the best food between Whitehorse and Alaska. Menus are complex and continental (meals $35 to $50).

Village Bakery & Deli (867-634-2867; Logan St; meals $6-10; 7am-9pm May-Aug; wi-fi) A local treasure, the bakery here turns out excellent goods all day. The deli has good sandwiches and you can enjoy it all under the trees on the huge deck. On Friday night there’s a popular barbecue.

Frosty Freeze (867-634-7070; Alaska Hwy; 11am-10pm May-Sep) What looks like a humdrum fast food joint is several orders of magnitude better. The shakes are made with real ice cream, the sundaes feature fresh berries, the burgers are huge and juicy and the pizza is simply superb.

GETTING THERE & AWAY

Alaska Direct Busline (867-668-4833, 800-770-6652; www.alaskadirectbusline.com; mid-May–Sep) Runs services three times per week to Whitehorse (US$60, two hours) and west to Beaver Creek (US$85, four hours) and Alaska.

Kluane National Park & Reserve

For once the aboriginal name doesn’t quite cover it. The Southern Tutchone word Kluane (kloo-wah-neee) means вЂ˜lake with many fish.’ In this case a word meaning вЂ˜jaw-dropping natural beauty’ or вЂ˜county-sized glaciers flowing around stunning peaks’ might be better. From the Alaska Hwy, you only see the edge of the park; to really appreciate it requires commitment, although you can get a taste in short day-hikes.



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WHAT THE…?

The huge sculpture that looks like a nightmare cupcake at the intersection of the Alaska and Haines Hwys is really meant to be a winsome tableau of local characters and critters. Repairs are constant as locals – or art critics – regularly blast holes in the artwork.





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Usually just called Kluane National Park, its 22,015 sq km cover the southwest corner of the Yukon. With BC’s Tatshenshini-Alsek Provincial Park to the south and Alaska’s Wrangell-St Elias National Park to the west, this is one of the largest protected wilderness areas in the world. Its Unesco world heritage designation cites, among others, the вЂ˜over 100 named and as many unnamed glaciers.’

INFORMATION

Parks Canada has two information centers. One is in Haines Junction (Click here) and the other at Tachal Dhal (Sheep Mountain; Alaska Hwy; 9am-5pm May-Sep), 130km west of Haines Junction. Get a copy of the Recreation Guide, which shows the scope of the park (and how little is actually easily accessible). The map shows hikes ranging from 10 minutes to 10 days.

Winters are long and harsh. Summers are short, making mid-June to mid-September the best time to visit. Note that winter conditions can occur at any time, especially in the back country. See Haines Junction (opposite) for the park’s campground.

SIGHTS

The park consists primarily of the St Elias Mountains and the world’s largest non-polar icefields. Two-thirds of the park is glacier interspersed with valleys, glacial lakes, alpine forest, meadows and tundra. The Kluane Ranges (averaging a height of 2500m) are seen along the western edge of the Alaska Hwy. A greenbelt wraps around the base where most of the animals and vegetation live. Turquoise Kluane Lake is the Yukon’s largest. Hidden are the immense icefields and towering peaks, including Mt Logan (5959m), Canada’s highest mountain, and Mt St Elias (5488m), the second highest. Partial glimpses of the interior peaks can be found at the Kilometer 1622 viewpoint on the Alaska Hwy and also around the Donjek River Bridge, but the best views are from the air. You can arrange charters of planes or helicopters in Haines Junction.

ACTIVITIES

There’s excellent hiking in the forested lands at the base of the mountains, along either marked trails or less defined routes. There are about a dozen in each category, some following old mining roads, others traditional aboriginal paths. Detailed trail guides and topographical maps are available at the information centers. Talk to the rangers before setting out. They will help select a hike and can provide updates on areas that may be closed due to bear activity. Overnight hikes require backcountry permits ($10 per person per night).

The Tachal Dhal information center is the starting point for Slims West, a popular 60km round-trip trek to Kaskawulsh Glacier – one of the few that can be reached on foot. This is a difficult route that takes from three to five days to complete and includes sweeping views from Observation Mountain (2114m). An easy overnight trip is the 15km Auriol loop, which goes from spruce forest to subalpine barrens and includes a wilderness campground. It’s 7km south of Haines Junction.

To get a sense of the devastation caused by beetles in the last decade Click here stop at the short Spruce Beetle Loop, 17km northwest of Haines Junction, just off the highway.

Fishing is good and wildlife-watching plentiful. Most noteworthy are the thousands of Dall sheep that can be seen on Sheep Mountain in April, May and September. There’s a large and diverse population of grizzly bear, as well as black bear, moose, caribou, goats and 150 varieties of birds, among them eagles and the rare peregrine falcon.

Many enjoy skiing or snowshoeing beginning in February.

Destruction Bay

This small village on the shore of huge Kluane Lake is 107km north of Haines Junction. It was given its evocative name after a storm tore through the area during construction of the highway. Most of the residents are First Nations, who live off the land through the year. Congdon Creek is 17km east of town on the Alaska Hwy and has an 81-site territorial campground and a fine lakeside setting.

Burwash Landing

Commune with an enormous, albeit stuffed, moose at the excellent Kluane Museum (867-841-5561; adult/child $6/4; 9am-6:30pm mid-May–mid-Sep). Enjoy intriguing wildlife exhibits and displays on natural and aboriginal history. There’s boating on Kluane Lake, including a good 10km paddle to the wildlife-filled mouth of the Kluane River.

Beaver Creek

Wide-spot-in-the-road Beaver Creek is a beacon for sleepy travelers or those who want to get gas – certainly its lackluster eateries will ensure the latter. The Canadian border checkpoint is just north of town; the US border checkpoint is 27km further west. Both are open 24 hours.

The VIC (867-862-7321; Km 1202 Alaska Hwy; 8am-8pm May-Sep) has information on all of the Yukon. A strange sculpture garden just north tempts the silly (or intoxicated) into unnatural acts.

Of the four motels in town, the 1202 Motor Inn (867-862-7600, 800-661-0540; 1202 Alaska Hwy; r from $50) is least offensive. The 30 rooms are basic and functional. Get one away from the idling trucks.

Alaska

Note that the incredible scenery of the Alaska Hwy dims a bit once you cross into its namesake state. The Alaska Hwy department leaves the road much more despoiled than the pristine conditions in the Yukon.

From the US border, it’s 63km (39 miles) to Tetlin National Wildlife Refuge on the Alaska Hwy. About 117km past Tetlin, you’ll reach the junction with the Taylor Hwy (Hwy 5) which connects north with the Top of the World Hwy to Dawson City.


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HAINES HIGHWAY

If you’re doing only a short loop between Haines and Skagway via Whitehorse, this 259km road might be the highlight of your trip. In fact no matter what length your Yukon adventure, the Haines Hwy (Hwy 3) might be the high point. In a relatively quick distance you see glaciers, looming snow-clad peaks, lush and wild river valleys, wind-swept Alpine meadows and a bald-eagle-laced river delta.

Heading south of Haines Junction, look west for a close-up of the St Elias Mountains, those glaciers glimpsed at the top stretch all the way to the Pacific Ocean. About 80km south, look for the Tatshenshini River viewpoint. This white-water river flows through protected bear country and a valley that seems timeless.

About 10km further, look for Million Dollar Falls. For once the sight lives up to the billing as water thunders through a narrow chasm. Let the roar lull you to sleep at the nearby territorial campground.

The highway crosses into BC for a mere 70km but you’ll hope for more as you traverse high and barren alpine wilderness where sudden snow squalls happen year-round. At the 1070m Chilkat Pass, an ancient aboriginal route into the Yukon, the road suddenly plunges down for a steep descent into Alaska. The US border is 72km north of Haines, along the wide Chilkat River Delta.

Home to scores of bald eagles year-round, the handsome birds flock like pigeons each fall when they mass in the trees over-looking the river drawn by the comparatively mild weather and steady supply of fish.

Pullouts line the Haines Hwy (Hwy 7 in Alaska), especially between mileposts 19 and 26. Take you time driving and find a place to park. Just a few feet from the road, it’s quiet and when you see a small tree covered with 20 pensive – and sizable – bald eagles, you can enjoy your own raptor version of The Birds.


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HAINES (ALASKA)

Unlike Skagway just across the Lynn Canal, Haines has escaped the cruise ship mobs and it’s all the better for it. It’s a real community with a real downtown close to the working waterfront. There are good shops, a couple of small museums and a historic fort. You can easily walk around much of the town in a few scenic hours. As you gaze out over the beautiful mountain-backed waters – possibly with a relaxing beverage in hand – you’re unlikely to be jealous of those aboard the conga line of cruise ships puffing (and we mean puffing, the pollution is deplorable) their way to the next port.

Coming from the south on the Alaska Marine Highway ferries, Haines is definitely the port of choice for accessing the Yukon. For more coverage of Haines and southeast Alaska, see Lonely Planet’s Alaska.

Information

Prices for Haines are in US$. Haines is on Alaska time, one hour earlier than Yukon time.



Emergency 911

Haines Convention & Visitors Bureau (907-766-2234, 800-458-3579; www.haines.ak.us; 122 2nd Ave; 9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat & Sun May-Sep) Publishes a hugely useful vacation planner and has trail maps plus Yukon info.





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HOT TOPIC (AHEM)

The Yukon should serve as exhibit one in the case for global warming and climate change. Every corner of the territory is experiencing rapid changes in the environment because it’s getting warmer a lot quicker than anybody ever imagined. In the far north, Herschel Island is literally dissolving as the permafrost thaws. One gruesome sign: long-buried coffins floating to the surface of the melting earth. Unesco has listed it as one of the world’s most threatened historic sites.



In Dawson City locals have for decades bet on the day each spring when the Yukon River suddenly breaks up and begins flowing. Detailed records show that the mean date for this has moved one week earlier in the last century to May 5, with the pace accelerating.



Perhaps the most easily seen and horrifying evidence that something’s going on is in Kluane National Park. It’s generally believed that winters have moderated just enough (in the Yukon equivalent of the вЂ˜I-walked-12-miles-uphill-each-way-to-school-in-the-snow’ lament, old-timers wonder what happened to those crispy 60-below-zero days of their youth) so that various tree-killing beetles didn’t die off during the cold months. The result was a beetle explosion in the mid-1990s that wiped out millions of fir, spruce and pine trees.



Preparing the Yukon for a radically different and warmer future is now a major political topic, even if nobody has the answers.





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Sights & Activities

Walk the center and waterfront and then amble over to Fort Seward, an old army post dating back 100 years. Now a national historic site, the many mannered buildings have been given a range of new uses, from art galleries to funky stores to B&Bs.

Haines makes the most of its eagles, and has a festival (http://baldeaglefest.org) in their honor every November. Numerous local guides will take you to see the birds in ways you can’t do from the side of the Haines Hwy.

Sleeping & Eating

The CVB has oodles of choices at all price ranges.

Portage Cove State Recreation Site (Beach Rd; tent sites US$5; 15 May-Aug.) It’s worth losing your car so you can stay at this beautiful bicyclist- and backpacker-friendly campground right on the water 1.6km south of town. Light a campfire and let the mist roll in.

Captain’s Choice Motel (907-766-3111, 800-478-2345; www.capchoice.com; 108 2nd Ave N; r US$85-160; wi-fi) An admiral might even choose this place. Many of the 40 rooms have sweeping water views and all are large. It’s right in the center.

Mountain Market & CafГ© (907-766-3340; 151 3rd Ave; meals US$4-10; 7am-7pm Mon-Fri, 7am-6pm Sat & Sun) Get your Haines Hwy or Alaska ferry picnic here. Treats include excellent coffee, baked goods, big sandwiches and lots of organic prepared foods.

Fireweed (907-766-3838; Bldg 37 Blacksmith Rd; meals US$6-16; 11am-10pm) In Fort Seward, Fireweed just seems to get better by the year. Enjoy the excellent pizzas, salads, chowders and seafood out on the deck overlooking the Lynn Canal. We still swoon over the Haines Brewing Spruce Tip Ale.

Getting There & Away

There’s no public transportation from Haines into the Yukon.

Alaska Maritime Highway System (800-642-0066; www.ferryalaska.com) is a superb service that links Haines and the Yukon to BC and the US. Boats serve Skagway (US$31, vehicles from US$41, two hours, five to seven weekly), Juneau, Petersburg, Wrangell, Ketchikan, and importantly, Prince Rupert in BC (US$178, cabins from US$270, vehicles from $395; 35 hours; two to three per week); also Bellingham, Washington in the US (US$353, cabins from US$271, vehicles from US$800; 68 to 80 hours; one to two per week). For more information on this service, Click here. The ferry terminal is situated 6.5km south of town.

The Haines-Skagway Fast Ferry (907-766-2100, 888-766-2103; www.chilkatcruises.com) carries passengers only (adult/child US$25/12.50, 35 minutes, three or more per day, June to September) and docks near the center.


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KLONDIKE HIGHWAY

Beginning seaside in Skagway, Alaska, the 716km Klondike Hwy climbs high to the forbidding Chilkoot Pass before crossing into stunning alpine scenery on the way to Carcross. For much of its length, the road generally follows the Gold Rush Trail, the route of the Klondike prospectors. You’ll have a much easier time of it than they did (opposite).

North of Whitehorse, the road passes through often gentle terrain that has been scorched by wildfires through the years. Signs showing the dates let you chart nature’s recovery.


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SKAGWAY (ALASKA)

Skagway has been both delighting and horrifying travelers for over 100 years. In 1898 scamsters of all kinds preyed upon arriving miners bound for Dawson. Today it’s T-shirt vendors preying on tourists. When several huge cruise ships show up at once, the streets look like one great disturbed ant hill.

However, behind the tat there’s a real town that still has many preserved charms. At night after the cruise ships have sailed it has its own quiet charm. Still, there’s no need to linger as the Yukon beckons. Although it’s in the US, it can only be reached by car on the Klondike Hwy from the Yukon (with a short stretch in BC). It’s the starting point for the famed Chilkoot Trail and the White Pass & Yukon Route.

Skagway is the last stop on the Alaska Marine Hwy System’s inland passage service from the south and as such is an important entry point for the Yukon. Lonely Planet’s Alaska has extensive coverage of Skagway and the rest of Southeast Alaska.

Orientation & Information

From the ferry terminal, the foot and vehicle traffic spills onto Broadway St and the center of town. There’s a full range of services including shops selling a substance known as вЂ˜fudge,’ which seems popular with the cruise ship crowd. The Klondike Hwy leaves from the north end of town.

Prices below are in US$. Skagway is on Alaska time, one hour earlier than the Yukon. Most places close outside of summer.



Chilkoot Trail Centre (cnr Broadway & 2nd; 8am-5pm Jun-Aug) Run by Parks Canada (800-661-0486; www.pc.gc.ca/chilkoot) and the US National Park Service (907-983-3655; www.nps.gov/klgo), this place provides advice, permits, maps and a list of transportation options to/from the Chilkoot Trail.

Skagway Convention & Visitors Bureau (907-983-2854, 888-762-1898; www.skagway.com; 245 Broadway; 8am-5pm) Complete area details.

Skagway News Depot & Books (907-983-3354; 264 Broadway; 8:30am-8:30pm Mon-Fri, 8:30am-7:30pm Sat & Sun) Good selection of regional titles and maps.

US National Park Service (907-983-2921; cnr Broadway & 2nd St; 8am-8pm Jun-Aug, 8am-6pm Sep-May) Pick-up the Skagway Trail Map for area hikes.



Sights

A seven-block corridor along Broadway, part of the historic district is home to restored buildings, false fronts and wooden sidewalks from Skagway’s gold rush era. The Park Service (above) has tours, a museum and info.

The White Pass & Yukon Route (WP&YR; 907-983-2217, 800-343-7373; www.wpyr.com; cnr 2nd Ave & Spring St; adult/child US$98/49; early May-late Sep) is the stunning reason most people visit Skagway (other than T-shirts). The line twists up the tortuous route to the namesake White Pass, tracing the notorious White Pass trail used during the Klondike Gold Rush.

Sleeping

Reservations are strongly recommended during July and August. The CVB has comprehensive accommodations lists.

Pullen Creek RV Park (907-983-2768, 800-936-3731; www.pullencreekrv.com; 501 Congress St; campsites US$14-30) This park is right next to the ferry terminal.

Skagway Home Hostel (907-983-2131; www.skagway.com; cnr 3rd Ave & Main St; dm US15-20, r US$50; ) Not a far walk from the ferry dock (or call for free pick-up), this friendly 1900 house has a variety of dorms and private rooms.

Sergeant Preston’s Lodge (907-983-2521; www.sgtprestonslodge.com; 370 6th Ave; r US$80-115; wi-fi) The 40 bright and clean rooms are right in the historic center. Call for ferry pick-up.

Getting There & Away

From Skagway to Whitehorse on the Klondike Hwy (Hwy 2) is 177km. Customs at the border usually moves fairly quickly.

BOAT

Alaska Maritime Highway System (800-642-0066; www.ferryalaska.com) The excellent service links Skagway and the Yukon to BC and the US. Boats serve Haines (US$31, vehicles from US$41, two hours, five to seven weekly), Juneau, Petersburg, Wrangell, Ketchikan, and importantly, Prince Rupert in BC (US$190, cabins from US$270, vehicles from $416, 35 hours, two to three per week); also Bellingham, Washington in the US (US$363, cabins from US$271, vehicles from US$820, 68 to 80 hours, one to two per week). For more on this service, Click here.

The Haines-Skagway Fast Ferry (907-766-2100, 888-766-2103; www.chilkatcruises.com) carries passengers only (adult/child US$25/12.50, 35 minutes, three or more per day, June to September).

BUS & TRAIN

Yukon Alaska Tourist Tours (867-668-4414; www.yatt.ca) has daily buses between Skagway and Whitehorse (US$55, four hours, late May to early September).

White Pass & Yukon Route (opposite) offers a cool rail and bus connection to/from Whitehorse (adult/child US$106/53, four hours, one daily May to mid-September). The transfer point is Fraser, BC.


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CHILKOOT TRAIL

Arduous at best and deadly at worst in 1898, the Chilkoot Trail was the route most prospectors took to get over the 1110m Chilkoot Pass from Skagway and into the Yukon. Today, hikers reserve spots months in advance to travel the same route.

The well-marked 53km trail begins near Dyea, 14km northwest of Skagway, and heads northeast over the pass. It then follows the Taiya River to Lake Bennett in BC, and takes three to five days to hike. It’s a hard route in good weather and often treacherous in bad. You must be in good physical condition and come fully equipped. Layers of warm clothes and rain gear are essential.

Hardware, tools and supplies dumped by the prospectors still litter the trail. At several places there are wooden shacks where you can put up for the night, but these are usually full so a tent and sleeping bag are required. There are 10 designated campgrounds along the route, each with bear caches.



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YO DUDE, GOLD!

The Klondike Gold Rush continues to be the defining moment for the Yukon. Certainly it was the population highpoint. Some 40,000 gold-seekers washed ashore (some literally) in Skagway hoping to strike it rich in the gold fields of Dawson City, some 700km north.



To say that most were ill-prepared for the adventure is an understatement. Although some were veterans of other gold rushes, a high percentage were American men looking for adventure. Clerks, lawyers and waiters were just some of those who thought they’d just pop up north and get rich. The reality was different. Landing in Skagway, they were set upon by all manner of flim-flam artists, most working for the incorrigible Soapy Smith. Next came dozens of trips hefting their 1000lb of required supplies over the frozen Chilkoot Pass. Then they had to build boats from scratch and make their way across lakes and the Yukon River to Dawson. Scores died trying.



Besides more scamsters, there was another harsh reality awaiting in Dawson: by the summer of 1897 when the first ships reached the west coast of the US with news of the discoveries on Dawson’s Bonanza Creek, the best sites had all been claimed. The Klondike Gold Rush mobs were mostly too late to the action by at least a year. Sick and broke, the survivors glumly made their way back to the US. Few found any gold and most sold their gear for pennies to merchants who in turn resold it to incoming gold seekers for top dollar. Several family fortunes in the Yukon today can be traced to this trade.



Today, that many Klondikers would be described as вЂ˜couch-potatoes’ is clear from their stories. The depravation, disease and heartbreak of these вЂ˜dudes’ of the day make for fascinating reading. Among the many books about the Klondike Gold Rush, the following are recommended (and easily found in the Yukon):



The Klondike Fever by Pierre Berton is the classic on the gold rush.



Sailor on Snowshoes by Dick North traces Jack London’s time in the Yukon and the hunt for his cabin. London’s stories of the gold rush made his name as a writer.



Soapy Smith by Stan Sauerwein is a delightful tale about the Skagway scalawag for whom the word incorrigible was invented.



The Klondike Hwy (opposite) from Skagway via Whitehorse and as far as Minto follows what Parks Canada calls the Gold Rush Trail. To stay on the course of the gold-seekers from there you’ll need to paddle the Yukon River.





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At the Canadian end you can either take the White Pass & Yukon Route train from Bennett back to Skagway or further up the line to Fraser in BC, where you can connect with a bus for Whitehorse.

The Chilkoot Trail is a primary feature of the Klondike Gold Rush International Historic Park, a series of sites managed by both Parks Canada and the US National Park Service that stretches from Seattle, Washington, to Dawson City. Each Chilkoot hiker must obtain one of the 50 permits available for each day in summer; reserve in advance. Parks Canada/US National Park Service charge $53 for a permit plus $12 for a reservation. For information, contact the Trail Centre in Skagway. Each day eight of the permits are issued on a first-come, first-served basis.


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CARCROSS

Long a forgotten gold rush town, cute little Carcross, 74km southeast of Whitehorse, is on a roll. There are daily trains in summer from Skagway on the White Pass & Yukon Route (round-trip adult/child $175/87.50), which returned to the town in 2007 after a three decade absence. Some old buildings are being restored and the site on Lake Bennett is superb. (Although Klondike prospectors who had to build boats here to cross the lake didn’t think so.)

The VIC (867-821-4431; 8am-8pm May-Sep) is in the old train station and has an excellent walking tour booklet of the town. The station also has good displays on local history and directly behind is a hall where local artists show their wares.

Carcross Desert, the world’s smallest, is the exposed sandy bed of a glacial lake. It’s 2km north of town.


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WHITEHORSE TO CARMACKS

Leaving Whitehorse by the Klondike Hwy is none-too-exciting. There’s land with low trees and a few cattle ranches. After about 40km, however, look for serene Lake Laberge, which has a beach, followed by Fox Lake, 24km further north, and Twin Lakes, 23km south of Carmacks. Each has a government campground with shelters and pump water.


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CARMACKS

This village of 400 sits right on the Yukon River and is named for one of the discoverers of gold in 1896, George Washington Carmacks. A rogue seaman wandering the Yukon, it was almost by luck that Carmacks (with Robert Henderson, Tagish Charlie and Keish – aka Skookum Jim) made their claim on Bonanza Creek. Soon he was living the high life and it wasn’t long before he abandoned his First Nations family and headed south to the US.

Given his record as a husband and father, it’s fitting that Carmacks be honored by this uninspired collection of gas stations and places to stay. The main reason to stop is the excellent Tage Cho Hudan Interpretive Centre (867-863-5830; admission by donation; 9am-4pm May-Sep). Volunteers explain aboriginal life past and present. Like elsewhere in the territory, residents here are keenly attuned to the land, which supplies them with game and fish throughout the year. A pretty 15-minute interpretive walk by the river provides a glimmer of insight into this life.



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SCENIC DRIVE: SILVER TRAIL

Exactly what the name implies, this old mining road (Hwy 11) heads east from Stewart Crossing. The first 52km to Mayo (www.yukonweb.com/community/mayo) is paved and there are some turnouts for nature walks along the way. Mayo dates to 1903, when it was a busy river port for the surrounding silver industry. Today it has a couple of motels and a cute little downtown on the river with restored buildings and plaques detailing its history.



From here the road turns to gravel. The first of two nearly abandoned mining towns, Elsa is 45km from Mayo (sadly no-one thought to name any places locally Ham or Rye) and is closed to the public. But Keno City (www.kenocity.info), a further 16km, has a small mining museum that’s usually open at peak times in summer. There are good hikes here to alpine meadows, snowy peaks and up Keno Hill, which has a signpost with distances to cities worldwide (eg Melbourne 8300 miles).



In summer, there’s usually an information booth for the Silver Trail in Stewart Crossing, just south of the bridge.





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This is also the junction with the Robert Campbell Hwy.

About 25km north of Carmacks, the Five Finger Recreation Site has excellent views of the treacherous stretch of the rapids that tested the wits of riverboat captains traveling between Whitehorse and Dawson. There’s a steep 1.5km walk down to the rapids.


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MINTO

Easily missed – unless you’re toting a canoe or kayak – Minto is where the Klondike Hwy leaves the route of the Gold Rush Trail. This is a popular place to put in for the four- to five-day trip down the Yukon River to Dawson City. It’s about 72km north of Carmacks.


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STEWART CROSSING

Another popular place to get your canoe wet, Stewart Crossing is on the Stewart River, which affords a narrow and somewhat more rugged experience before it joins the Yukon to the west for the trip to Dawson.

Otherwise unexceptional, the village is the junction of the Klondike Hwy (Hwy 2) and the Silver Trail (Hwy 11).

North of Stewart Crossing the Klondike Hwy continues for 139 bland kilometers to the junction with the Dempster Hwy. From here it’s only 40km to Dawson City.


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DAWSON CITY

If you didn’t know its history, Dawson would be a delightful place to pause for a while, plunging into its quirky culture and falling for its seductive funky vibe. That it’s one of the most historic and beautiful towns in Canada is like gold dust on a cake: unnecessary but damn nice.

Set on a narrow shelf at the confluence of the Yukon and Klondike rivers, a mere 240km south of the Arctic Circle, Dawson City was the center of the Klondike Gold Rush. In 1898 more than 30,000 prospectors milled the streets – a few newly rich, but most without prospects and at odds with themselves and the world. Shops, bars and prostitutes relieved these hordes of what money they had. But Dawson’s fortunes were tied to the gold miners and as the boom ended, the town began a decades-long slow fade.



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CURSE OF THE CINNAMON BUNS

For decades Yukon motorists have answered the siren song of cinnamon buns sung by roadside businesses. But what once might have been a tasty treat has been lost in an escalating battle of the buns. Everybody claims theirs is the biggest, even as the size approaches the weight and shape of something dropped out of a woolly mammoth. Worse, these beasts are heavy on tough dough and light on taste. Beware, unless you need canoe ballast.





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The territorial capital was moved to Whitehorse in 1952 and the town lingered on, surviving on the low-key but ongoing gold mining industry. By 1970 the population was under 900. But then a funny thing happened on the way to Dawson’s demise: it got rediscovered. Improvements to the Klondike Hwy and links to Alaska allowed the first major influx of summertime tourists who found a charmingly moldering time capsule from the gold rush. Parks Canada designated much of the town as historic and began restorations.

Today, you can wander the dirt streets of Dawson, passing old buildings with dubious permafrost foundations leaning on each other for support (that’s in comparison to the real drunks you’ll see leaning on each other for support outside the local saloons). There’s a rich cultural life, with many people finding Dawson the perfect place for free expression (those bongo drums you hear are another new arrival).

Dawson can get busy in the summer, especially during its festivals. But by September the days are getting short, the seasonal workers have fled south and the 2000 year-round residents (professionals, miners, First Nations, dreamers, artists and those who aren’t sure where they fit) are settling in for another long and quiet winter.


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ORIENTATION

Dawson City, 527km from Whitehorse, is small enough to walk around in a few hours. The Klondike Hwy leads into Front St (also called 1st Ave) along the Yukon River. Just north of town, a free ferry crosses the Yukon River to the Top of the World Hwy and onward to Alaska.

Like a gold nugget on a tapped out creek, street numbers are a rarity in Dawson. Unless noted otherwise, opening hours and times given here cover the period from mid-May to early-September. For the rest of the year, most sights, attractions and many businesses are closed.


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INFORMATION

The biweekly, volunteer-run Klondike Sun covers special events and activities.



CIBC ATM (2nd Ave near Queen St)

Dawson City Community Library (867-993-5571; cnr 5th Ave & Queen St; 11am-8pm Tue-Sat but can vary) Has internet access.

Dawson Medical Clinic (867-993-5744; Church St near 6th Ave; 9am-noon, 1-5pm Mon-Fri) A private clinic; nurses are always on call at the adjoining government clinic (867-993-4444).

Maximilian’s (867-993-6537; Front St; 8am-8pm) Excellent selection of regional books, magazines, out-of-town newspapers and topographical and river maps.

Post office (867-993-5342; 3rd Ave btwn King & Queen Sts; 8:30am-5:30pm Mon-Fri, 11:30am-2:30pm Sat)

TastyByte Internet Cafe (867-993-6105; Front St; per hr $6; 9:30am-5:30pm) Good coffee and wi-fi access.

VIC (867-993-5566; cnr Front & King Sts; 8am-8pm) Parks Canada information is split between here and the Palace Grand Theatre (King St btwn 2nd & 3rd Aves).

Western Arctic Information Centre (867-993-6167; Front St; 8am-8pm) Maps and information on the NWT and the Dempster Hwy.





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SIGHTS

You can easily fill three or more days with the many things to see and do in and around Dawson. If the summertime hordes get you down, head up hill for a few blocks where you’ll find timeless old houses and streets.

In a real boon to families, almost all attractions are free for kids 12 and under.

Klondike National Historic Sites

It’s easy to relive the gold rush at a myriad of preserved and restored places. Parks Canada does an excellent job of providing information and tours. In addition to the individual sight fees listed here, there are various good-value Parks Canada passes (adults $14-32). For information, go to the Parks Canada desk in the VIC. See right for details on Dredge No 4.

ROBERT SERVICE CABIN

Called the вЂ˜Bard of the Yukon,’ poet and writer Robert W Service lived in this typical gold-rush cabin (cnr 8th Ave & Hanson St; admission free; 2:30-3:30pm) from 1909 to 1912. Don’t miss the dramatic readings (adult $7; 1:30pm & 7pm).

COMMISSIONER’S RESIDENCE

Built in 1901 to house the territorial commissioner, this proud building (Font St; adult $7; 10am-5pm, tour times vary) was designed to give potential civic investors confidence in the city. The building was the longtime home of Martha Black, who came to the Yukon in 1898, owned a lumberyard and was elected to the Canadian Parliament at age 70. (Martha Black by Flo Whyard is a great book about this amazing woman.)

SS KENO

The SS Keno (adult $7; 10am-6pm) was one of a fleet of paddle wheelers that worked the Yukon’s rivers for more than half a century. Grounded along the waterfront, the boat re-creates a time before any highways.

HARRINGTON’S STORE

This old shop (cnr 3rd Ave & Princess St; admission free 9am-4:30pm) has historic photos from Dawson’s heyday.

Dänojà Zho Cultural Centre

Inside this beautiful riverfront wood building (867-993-6768; www.trondek.com; Front St; adult $5; 10am-6pm) there are displays and interpretative talks on the Hän Hwëch’in (River People) First Nations. The collection includes traditional artifacts and a recreation of a 19th-century fishing camp. Check on the schedule of cultural tours and performances of authentic dances.

Jack London Interpretive Centre

In 1898 Jack London lived in the Yukon, the setting for his most popular stories, including Call of the Wild and White Fang. At the writer’s cabin (8th Ave at Grant St; admission $2; 10am-6pm) there are daily interpretive talks. A labor of love by historian Dick North, Dawne Mitchell and others, this place is a treasure trove of stories – including the search for the original cabin.

Dawson City Museum

Make your own discoveries among the 25,000 gold rush artifacts at this museum (867-993-5291; 5th Ave; adult $7; 10am-6pm). Engaging exhibits walk you through the grim lives of the miners. The museum is housed in the landmark 1901 Old Territorial Administration building.

Midnight Dome

The slide-scarred face of this hill overlooks the town to the north, but to reach the top you must travel south of town about 1km, turn left off the Klondike Hwy onto New Dome Rd, and continue for about 7km. The Midnight Dome, at 880m above sea level, offers great views of the Klondike Valley, Yukon River and Dawson City. There’s also a steep trail that takes 90 minutes from Judge St in town; maps are available at the VIC.

Crocus Bluff & Cemeteries

A 15-minute walk up King St and Mary McCloud Rd behind town leads to cemeteries that are literally filled with characters. There’s a short path out to pretty Crocus Bluff that has excellent views of Dawson and the Klondike and Yukon rivers. Historic cemeteries are nearby. If you’re driving, ignore the вЂ˜Local Traffic Only’ signs coming up King St. On New Dome Rd, turn at Mary McLeod Rd (ignoring the вЂ˜No Exit’ signs).

Mine Sites

The deeply scarred valleys around Dawson speak of the vast amounts of toil that went into the gold hunt. Dredge No 4 (Bonanza Creek Rd; adult $7; 10am-4pm, tour times vary), 13km off the Klondike Hwy, is a massive dredging machine that tore up the Klondike Valley and left the tailings, which remain as a vast, rippled blight on the landscape. The Parks Canada tours are absorbing.

Just 1.5km further up the valley, the Bonanza Creek Discovery Site is roughly where gold was first found in 1897. It’s a quiet site today with a little water burbling through the rubble.

Galleries

Dawson has a thriving arts community – even the mayor is an artist. The Klondike Institute for Art and Culture (KIAC; 867-993-5005; www.kiac.org; cnr 3rd Ave & Queen St) has an impressive new studio building, galleries and educational programs.

KIAC’s exhibition space, the ODD Gallery (867-993-5005; cnr 2nd Ave & Princess St; hrs vary), shows local works.

No Gold Gallery (867-993-5203; cnr Front St & Queen St) has works by a dozen local artists. Bombay Peggy’s (right) also displays and sells local works.


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ACTIVITIES

Besides arriving by canoe or kayak, many people also exit Dawson via the Yukon River. A popular trip good for novices goes from Dawson for three days and 168km downstream to Eagle City, Alaska.

Dawson Trading Post (867-993-5316; Front St; canoe per day $35) rents out canoes and arranges longer trips. Dawson City River Hostel (right), across the river, can also rent you a canoe and help make arrangements.

Besides the walks above town listed under Sights, a three-hour hike to Moosehead, an old First Nations village, is popular. The trail follows hillsides above the river north of town, be sure to get a map at the VIC.

You can explore much of the Dawson area by bike, including the Ridge Road Heritage Trail, which winds through the gold fields south of town. Rent bikes at Circle Cycle (867-993-6270; cnr King St & 7th Ave; bikes per day $25) or the Dawson City River Hostel.


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TOURS

Parks Canada docents, often in period garb, lead excellent walking tours (adult $7; 9:30am, some days extra tours) of Dawson. Learn about individual buildings and the many characters that walked the streets (many of whom could be called вЂ˜streetwalkers’). You can also take an audio tour (adult $7; 9:30am-4:30pm) where you guide yourself.

Goldbottom Tours (867-993-5023; www.goldbottom.com; ticket office Front St; tours from $20) is based 15km up Hunker Creek Rd (junction with Hwy 2 just north of the airport) at a working placer gold mine. You can pan for gold and see how the hills still manage to yield a nugget or two.


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FESTIVALS & EVENTS



Dawson City Music Festival (867-993-5384; www.dcmf.com) Popular – tickets sell out two months in advance and the city fills up; reservations are essential (late July).

Discovery Days Celebrates the you-know-what of 1896. On the third Monday in August there are parades and picnics. Events begin days before, including an excellent art show.




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SLEEPING

Reservations are a good idea in July and August, although the VIC can help. Many places will pick you up at the airport; ask in advance. Unless otherwise stated, the following are open all year.

Yukon River Campground (sites $12) On the western side of the river about 250m up the road to the right after you get off the ferry, this territorial campground has 98 shady sites.

Dawson City River Hostel (867-993-6823 summer; www.yukonhostels.com; dm $16-20, r from $42; mid-May–Sep) This delightfully eccentric hostel is across the river from town and five minutes up the hill from the ferry landing. It has good views, cabins, platforms for tents and a communal bathhouse. Owner Dieter Reinmuth is a noted Yukon author.

Gold Rush Campground RV Park (867-993-5247; 866-330-5006; www.goldrushcampground.com; cnr 5th Ave & York St; sites $20-40; Jun-Sep; wi-fi) Convenience trumps atmosphere at this big parking lot for RVs.

Bombay Peggy’s (867-993-6969; www.bombaypeggys.com; cnr 2nd Ave & Princess St; r $75-200; Mar-Dec; wi-fi) A renovated brothel, Peggy’s allure is its period furnishings and spunky attitude. Budget вЂ˜snug’ rooms share bathrooms. The bar is justifiably popular (opposite).

5th Ave B&B (867-993-5941; www.5thavebandb.com; 702 5th Ave; r $85-115; wi-fi) A vision in blue, this modern B&B has rooms with shared and private bathrooms and a comfy, vaguely frontier feel. Breakfasts are substantial.

Downtown Hotel (867-993-5346, 800-661-0514; www.downtownhotel.ca; cnr Queen St & 2nd Ave; r $95-160; wi-fi) This prominent hotel has 34 rooms in the main heritage building and 25 more in a modern annex. Not all have air-con; ask to see a couple.

Klondike Kate’s (867-993-6527; www.klondikekates.ca; cnr King St & 3rd Ave; cabins $100-140; Apr-Sep; wi-fi) The 15 cabins here behind the ever-popular restaurant (below) are fronted by flowers and have fridges and microwaves.

El Dorado Hotel (867-993-5451, 800-764-3536; www.eldoradohotel.ca; cnr 3rd Ave & Princess St; r $100-160; wi-fi) Reborn after a fire, the El Dorado has 46 modern rooms, including six new air-con suites. There are another six contemporary rooms in the old 1897 Yukon Hotel building on Front St.


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EATING

Picnickers, hikers and backcountry campers will find two good grocery stores in town. With exceptions noted below, most places close outside of summer.

River West (867-993-6339; cnr Front & Queen Sts; meals $4-7; 7am-7pm Mar-Oct) Busy throughout the day, this excellent coffeehouse, bakery and cafГ© looks out on the Front St action. Grab an outside table.

Klondike Kate’s (867-993-6527; cnr King St & 3rd Ave; meals $6-20; 8am-9pm) Two ways to know spring has arrived: the river cracks up and Kate’s reopens. Locals in the know prefer the latter. The long and inventive menu has fine sandwiches, pastas and fresh Yukon fish. Look for great specials. This is the place for breakfast.

Drunken Goat Taverna (867-993-5800; 2nd Ave; meals $7-20; noon-9pm) Follow your eyes to the flowers, your ears to the Aegean music and your nose to the excellent Greek food, run 12-months-a-year by Tony Dovas. Out back there’s a simple take-out with excellent pizzas.

Antoinette’s (867-993-6822; 3rd Ave near Princess St; meals $10-20; 5-9pm Tue-Sat) Look for the leaning Mountie out the front of this house where noted chef Antoinette Oliphant prepares a short but exquisite menu each night. Inside or on the patio, it feels like a glam dinner party.

La Table on 5th (867-993-6860; Aurora Inn, 5th Ave; meals $10-25; 5-9pm) The best steaks are the color of rare and the menu has continental flair at this Swiss-accented fine restaurant. Make arrangements in advance and a local storyteller will join you at your table.


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DRINKING

The spirit of the prospectors lives on in several saloons in Dawson. On summer nights the action goes on until late (sometimes as early as 4am).

Bars at Westminster Hotel (3rd Ave; noon-late) These two bars carry the mostly affectionate monikers вЂ˜Snakepit,’ вЂ˜Armpit’ or simply вЂ˜Pit.’ The places for serious drinkers, there’s live music many nights.

Bombay Peggy’s (867-993-6969; cnr 2nd Ave & Princess St; 11am-11pm) There’s always a hint of pleasures to come swirling around the tables of Dawson’s most inviting bar. Enjoy good beers, wines and mixed drinks inside or out.

Downtown Hotel (867-993-5346; cnr Queen St & 2nd Ave; 11am-late) This unremarkable bar comes to life at 9pm in summer for what best can be called the вЂ˜Sourtoe Schitck.’ Tourists line up to drink a shot of booze ($10) that has a pickled human toe floating in it. It’s a long-running gag that’s delightfully chronicled in Dieter Reinmuth’s The Saga of the Sourtoe. (That the toe – it is real – looks much like a bit of beef jerky should give pause to any one used to late night Slim Jim jonesing…)

Midnight Sun (867-993-5495; cnr Queen St & 3rd Ave; noon-late) The boozy venue for live music; it jumps with people shaking it to good local and regional bands.


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ENTERTAINMENT

Diamond Tooth Gertie’s (867-993-5575; cnr Queen St & 4th Ave; $6; 7pm-2am mid-May–mid-Sep) This popular re-creation of an 1898 saloon is complete with small-time gambling, a honky-tonk piano and dancing girls. The casino helps promote the town and fund culture. Each night there are three floor shows heavy on corn and kicking legs.


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GETTING THERE & AWAY

Dawson City airport (YDA) is 19km east of town off the Klondike Hwy. Air North (800-661-0407; www.flyairnorth.com) serves Whitehorse, Old Crow, Inuvik in the NWT and Fairbanks in Alaska.

There are no rental cars available in Dawson. Bus services to Dawson seem to be in a constant state of flux.

Alaska Direct Bus Line (867-668-4833; www.alaskadirectbusline.com) serves Whitehorse ($150, eight hours, twice weekly) and Tok, Alaska ($125, eight hours, three times weekly) in summer.

Yukon Alaska Tourist Tours (867-668-4414; www.yatt.ca) runs from Whitehorse on Friday in summer ($100, eight hours) and returns on Sunday.



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LOCAL VOICE

Terrie Turai, producer, choreographer and dancer for the dance hall show at Diamond Tooth Gertie’s



вЂ˜I’d been a professional since I was 19. In 1998 I got a call from a friend who said, “Come to Dawson” and “bring another dancer.” It was a job, so I came and when I saw this little old town I thought “What have I done?”. Prior to that I’d done mostly Broadway-style musicals.



But after the first year, something about Dawson pulled me back every summer.



We re-create old cancan dances based on the old routines. One difference is that the girls who were here during the gold rush spent their time battling for the attention of miners so they could later get tips. We’re much more about entertainment, although one night a guy tossed a girl over his shoulder and tried to leave. We said “No! She has another show in three hours!”.



One thing I’ve learned here is how to drink. Dawson teaches you well. What I find really amazing is that of the five dancers here in 1998, four of us live here full-time. Something about the Yukon sucks you right in. I guess I couldn’t feel more at home.’





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DAWSON CITY TO ALASKA

From Dawson City, the free ferry crosses the Yukon River to the scenic Top of the World Hwy (Hwy 9). Only open in summer, the mostly paved 106km-long ridge-top road to the US border has superb vistas across the region.

You’ll continue to feel on top of the world as you cross the border, the land is barren alpine meadows with jutting rocks and often grazing caribou. The border crossing (9am-9pm Yukon time/8am-8pm Alaska time, 15 May-15 Sep) has strict hours, if you’re late you’ll have to wait until the next day.

On the US side the road becomes all gravel. After 19km you reach the Taylor Hwy (Hwy 5). The old gold-mining town of Eagle on the Yukon River is 105km north. Some 47km south over dirt roads (expect to get dirt in parts of your vehicle and person you didn’t think possible), you encounter Chicken, a delightful place of free-thinkers happy to sell you a stupid T-shirt at one of the gas station/cafés or tell a goofy yarn. Another 124km south and you reach the Alaska Hwy where a turn east takes you to the Yukon. Just a tick west, Tok has services and motels. Alaska time is one hour earlier than the Yukon.


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DEMPSTER HIGHWAY

Rather than name this road for an obscure Mountie (William Dempster), this road should be named the Firestone Hwy or the Goodyear Hwy, for the number of tires it’s sent to an explosive demise. This 736km thrill ride is one of North America’s great adventure roads, winding through stark mountains and emerald valleys, across huge tracts of tundra and passing Tombstone Territorial Park (opposite).

The Dempster (Hwy 5 in the Yukon, Hwy 8 in the NWT) starts 40km southeast of Dawson City off the Klondike Hwy and heads north over the Ogilvie and Richardson mountains beyond the Arctic Circle and on to Inuvik in the NWT, near the shores of the Beaufort Sea.

Built on a thick base of gravel to insulate the permafrost underneath (which would otherwise melt causing the road to sink without a trace), the Dempster is open most of the year, but the best time to travel is between June and early September when the ferries over the Peel and Mackenzie rivers operate. In winter, ice forms a natural bridge over the rivers, which become ice roads. The Dempster is closed during the spring thaw and the winter freeze-up; the timing of these vary by the year and can occur from mid-April to June and mid-October to December, respectively.

Graveled almost its entire length, the highway has a well-deserved reputation for being rough on vehicles. Travel with extra gas and tires and expect to use them. Check road and ferry conditions (800-661-0750; www.hwy.dot.nt.ca/highways); the Western Arctic Information Centre in Dawson City is a good resource. It takes 10 to 12 hours to drive to Inuvik without stopping for a break. (Given that William Dempster regularly made 700km dog-sled journeys in sub-zero weather, this rugged and challenging road is properly named after all.)

Accommodations and vehicle services along the route are few. The Klondike River Lodge (867-993-6892) at the south junction rents jerry cans for gas that you can take north and return on the way back.

The next available services are 369km north in Eagle Plains. The Eagle Plains Hotel (867-993-2453; www.eagleplainshotel.com; r $100-130) is open year-round and offers 32 rooms. The next service station is 180km further at Fort McPherson in the NWT. From there it’s 216km to Inuvik.

The Yukon government has three campgrounds – at Tombstone Mountain (72km from the start of the highway), Engineer Creek (194km) and Rock River (447km). There’s also a NWT government campground at Nitainlaii Territorial Park, 9km south of Fort McPherson. Sites at these campgrounds are $12.


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ARCTIC PARKS

North of the Arctic Circle, the Yukon’s population numbers a few hundred. It’s a lonely land with little evidence of humans and only the hardiest venture here during the short summers.

The 280-person village of Old Crow (www.oldcrow.ca) is home to the Vuntut Gwitch’in First Nations and is unreachable by vehicle. Residents subsist on caribou from the legendary 130,000-strong Porcupine herd, which migrates each year between the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge (ANWR) in Alaska and the Yukon. Not surprisingly, the locals are against the constant threat of oil drilling on the US side of the border in the ANWR.

On the Yukon side of this vast flat arctic tundra, a large swath of land is now protected in two adjoining national parks, Vuntut and Ivvavik. Information on both can be obtained from the Parks Canada office in Inuvik, NWT Click here, where you can get information on the very limited options for organizing visits to the parks (think chartered planes, long treks over land and water and total self-sufficiency). There are no facilities of any kind in the parks.


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VUNTUT NATIONAL PARK

Vuntut, a Gwich’in word meaning вЂ˜among the lakes,’ is about 100km north of Old Crow, where there is a one-person park office (867-667-3910; www.pc.gc.ca/vuntut). The 4345-sq-km park was declared a national park in 1993. It lives up to its name with scores of lakes and ponds, home to 500,000 waterbirds in late summer. Archaeological sites contain fossils of ancient animals such as mammoths, plus evidence of early humans.


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IVVAVIK NATIONAL PARK

Ivvavik, meaning вЂ˜a place for giving birth to and raising the young,’ is situated along the Beaufort Sea adjoining Alaska and covers 10,170 sq km. The park (www.pc.gc.ca/ivvavik) is one of the calving grounds for the Porcupine caribou herd; thousands are born over a three-week period beginning in late May.

The park holds one of the world’s great white-water rivers, the Firth River, which can be navigated for 130km from Margaret Lake near the Alaskan border north to the Beaufort Sea. When the river meets Joe Creek, the valley narrows to a canyon and there are numerous areas of white-water rated Class II and III+.



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WORTH THE TRIP: TOMBSTONE TERRITORIAL PARK

Shades of green and charcoal color the wide valleys here and steep ridges are dotted with small glaciers and alpine lakes. Summer feels tentative but makes its statement with a burst of purple wildflowers in July. Clouds sweep across the tundra bringing squalls punctuated by brilliant sun. Stand amongst this and you’ll know the meaning of the sound of silence.



Tombstone Territorial Park (www.yukonparks.ca) lies along Dempster Hwy for about 50km. The park’s only formal campground (sites $12) has a small but excellent Interpretive Centre (9am-5pm late May–mid-Sep). It’s 72km from the start of the highway and is set in along the headwaters of the Yukon River just before Tombstone Mountain, the point where the trees run out and the truly wild northern scenery begins.



There are good day hikes near the campground, as well as longer, more rigorous treks for experienced wilderness hikers. Permits are required for backcountry camping, especially at several lakes popular in summer. (The park’s backcountry camping guide shows refreshing honesty in its answer to this frequently asked question: вЂ˜Will you come looking for me if I don’t return?’ вЂ˜No.’)



Tombstone is an easy day-trip from Dawson City (112km each way). With preparations, however, a multiday park adventure could be the highlight of your trip.





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HERSCHEL ISLAND (QIQIKTARUK) TERRITORIAL PARK

Its aboriginal name means вЂ˜it is island’ and indeed it is. Barely rising above the waters of Mackenzie Bay on the Beaufort Sea, Herschel Island (867-667-5648; www.yukonparks.ca) has a long tradition of human habitation. The Inuvialuit lived here for thousands of years, making the most of the prime position on the seal-rich waters. In the late 1800s American whalers set up shop at Pauline Cove, a natural port deep enough for ocean vessels and protected from northerly winds and drifting pack ice.

Abandoned in 1907, the whalers left behind several wooden buildings which survive today, often appearing ghost-like out of the gloom. Evidence can also be found of missionaries, whose position as redeemers of souls was never embraced locally. Today Inuvialuit families use the island for traditional hunting.

There are no permanent residents, although in summer a growing number of scientists set up shop, monitoring the island’s steady disintegration as it melts away Click here.

Summer visits to the island are possible via daytime tours from Inuvik. The flight across the MacKenzie Delta to reach the island is spectacular and park rangers often give tours. Backcountry camping during the short summer season (from late June to August) is possible. There are fire rings, wind shelters, pit toilets and limited water. Others visit the island at the end of a kayak trip in Ivvavik National Park.




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Northwest Territories





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YELLOWKNIFE

HISTORY

ORIENTATION

INFORMATION

DANGERS & ANNOYANCES

SIGHTS

ACTIVITIES

TOURS

FESTIVALS & EVENTS

SLEEPING

EATING

DRINKING

SHOPPING

GETTING THERE & AWAY

GETTING AROUND

AROUND YELLOWKNIFE

NORTH SLAVE

HIGHWAY 3

FORT PROVIDENCE

SOUTH SLAVE

MACKENZIE HIGHWAY

HAY RIVER

FORT SMITH

WOOD BUFFALO NATIONAL PARK

DEH CHO

MACKENZIE HIGHWAY

FORT SIMPSON

NAHANNI NATIONAL PARK RESERVE

LIARD TRAIL

SAHTU

NORMAN WELLS

WESTERN ARCTIC

INUVIK

TUKTOYAKTUK

PAULATUK

BANKS ISLAND



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The Northwest Territories (NWT) is a big old humbling hinterland – a barely peopled sprawl of water and woods, bisected by the Arctic Circle, flanked to the west by sawtoothed summits and trailing off poleward in a scattering of bleak isles. This is Canada’s least-known frontier, overlooked in favor of icy, iconic Nunavut and the grand, romantic Yukon. But the NWT’s secrets are worth sussing out. It’s rugged, accessible and largely aboriginal – a potent combo found nowhere else in Canada.

With a population density that would give Manhattan just three residents, there’s plenty of room here to get lost for a while. Canoeing, kayaking, fishing and hiking are all fantastic, and there are some exemplary tours. Hardcore adventurers can go it alone in the backcountry, following epic paddling routes such as the Nahanni and Mackenzie trekking the 372km Canol Heritage Trail. In winter, the weather turns Siberian – but the bugs bugger off, the northern lights ignite and well-bundled skiers and dogsledders glide through the surreal wilds.

The place is riddled with critters. Bison abound around Great Slave Lake and Wood Buffalo National Park, and there are ample moose, bear and caribou, plus exotic birds such as white pelicans and whooping cranes. Even the towns are a bit untamed. The Euro-Canadian population displays a colorful streak of pioneer iconoclasm, and ancestral traditions are alive and kicking for the indigenous residents. Visiting here is like going back in time: issues that elsewhere were resolved eons ago – such as land ownership – are questions still vital in the North.



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HIGHLIGHTS



Pack two spare tires and more film than you can fathom for the gobsmacking drive from Inuvik along the Dempster Hwy

Rent a kayak and go for a float on the Great Slave Lake amid technicolor houseboats and barnstorming floatplanes

J-stroke past gorgeous hot springs, haunted gorges and gorging bears in the paddlers’ paradise of Nahanni National Park Reserve

Be buffaloed by mating snakes, vanishing rivers and the eponymous ungulates of Wood Buffalo National Park

Go to the dogs during a husky-team ride near Yellowknife beneath the aurora borealis or the midnight sun





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History

Archeologists say the first NWT residents, ancestors of today’s Dene, tramped here from Asia about 14,000 years ago. The Inuvialuit, who migrated from Alaska, showed up more recently.

With the prospect of wealth from the fur trade, Europeans penetrated northern Canada in the 18th and 19th centuries, and on their heels came missionaries. Even well into the 1900s the region was largely the fiefdom of competing churches and the Hudson’s Bay Company.

After oil turned up near Tulita in the 1920s, a territorial government was formed. In the ’30s, gold near Yellowknife and radium near Great Bear Lake brought an influx of non-Aboriginals. Federal health, welfare and education programs began in earnest in the 1950s and ’60s. In the 1970s the Dene and Inuvialuit emerged as a political force, demanding a say in – and benefits from – resource extraction on their land.





In 1999 the territory was cut in half, with the eastern and central Arctic becoming Nunavut. The remaining population is evenly divided between Aboriginals and non-Aboriginals. The latter group, and to a smaller extent the former, have benefited from the recent oil, gas and diamond development, which have thrown the territorial economy into hyperdrive.

Local Culture

The NWT is a tale of one city and, across a cultural chasm, a whack of little towns. Yellowknife, the territorial capital, is a fairly metropolitan, multiethnic place, populated by transplants from southern Canada, plus a liberal dose of overseas immigrants. For many of these people, the NWT is a temporary stopover – a place to earn money, pad a résumé, or perhaps dabble in the exoticism of the Far North. Education levels and wages are fairly high. Vocationally and avocationally, people go about their lives as they might anywhere in southern Canada – albeit with more fishing and snowmobiling.

Outside of Yellowknife, everything turns on its head. In the small, outlying towns and villages, most people are Aboriginal: Dene in the south, and Inuvialuit in the Mackenzie Delta and Arctic islands. In contrast to the Johnny-come-latelies in the capital, these are people with eons-old roots in the North. Their social conditions can seem dire – what with overcrowding, over-drinking and the like – but they retain pride in their culture and their hunter-gatherer lifeways, and in many ways are more deeply committed to the territories’ future.

Language

The NWT has a whopping 11 official languages: English, French, and nine aboriginal tongues, from Cree in the south to Inuvialuktun in the Arctic. Though the aboriginal languages have been eroded by cultural change and past government policies, they remain in daily use. There remain elders who speak no English. The phrase you’ll most likely hear is mahsi cho – Dene for вЂ˜thank you very much.’ Don’t hesitate to use it.

Land & Climate

The NWT is a supersized wilderness reaching poleward from the 60th parallel. The south is evergreen flatlands, the east is the boulderscape of the Canadian Shield, and toothy mountains rear up from the west. Canada’s jumbo river, the Mackenzie, bisects the territory, draining two gargantuan lakes, Great Slave and Great Bear. In the North the territory hurdles the treeline and gathers in a few bleak High Arctic islands.

Weatherwise, summers range from miserable to stupendous. In Yellowknife and Inuvik, highs average 20°C, but on any given day you could find yourself sweltering or shivering. One sure thing is daylight: from May through July there’s no end of it. June’s the driest summer month, but lake ice can linger until the month’s end. Most visitors come in July and August.

Winters are long, dark and punishing. In January, lows in Yellowknife collapse to -40°C and daylight is feeble. If you’re keen on visiting in the snowy season, try March or April, when the sun climbs and the mercury follows suit.

Parks & Wildlife

Like remnants of Eden, four national parks grace the NWT. Nahanni National Park Reserve, near the Yukon border, is legendary for canoeing and contains the jaw-dropping Virginia Falls. Wood Buffalo National Park, more of a wildlife preserve, straddles the border with Alberta and is the only road-accessible park. Aulavik National Park, on northern Banks Island, and Tuktut Nogait National Park, near the Arctic coast, are among the newest, purest, least-visited Canadian parks.



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NORTHWEST TERRITORIES FACTS



Population 41,464

Area 1,346,106 sq km

Capital Yellowknife

Home territory of Nellie Cournoyea (politician), Margot Kidder (actress), Leslie Nielsen (actor), the Mad Trapper (outlaw)

Home to Canada’s first diamond mine

Official languages English, French and nine (!) indigenous tongues





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The NWT also has numerous roadside territorial parks and campgrounds. Overnighting in them is your best option for budget lodging. Camping usually costs $15 per night for tent sites and $20 for sites with RV hook-ups.

Parks, and everyplace else in the NWT, abound with beasts, from garter snakes to grizzlies, blackflies to beluga whales. Bears, moose and bison are the most commonly seen megafauna; campers and drivers should exercise caution, as the wildlife may not.

Information

Northwest Territories Tourism (800-661-0788, 867-873-5007; www.explorenwt.com) is the portal for official visitor info. They’ve got a dashing and detailed website, can field off-the-wall inquiries, and will distribute all manner of tourism literature, including the annual NWT Explorers’ Guide. If you plan to drive extensively in the NWT, grab a copy of the staggeringly comprehensive Milepost Guide, the bible of Northern motoring, available at most bookstores.

Getting There & Away

AIR

For air travelers, Edmonton is the main gateway to the NWT. First Air (800-267-1247; www.firstair.ca), Canadian North (800-661-1505; www.canadiannorth.com) and Air Canada (888-247-2262; www.aircanada.com) fly daily from there to Yellowknife, starting at around $600 return. Canadian North also flies from Edmonton to Hay River (about $670 return). Northwestern Air Lease (877-872-2216; www.nwal.ca) serves Fort Smith direct from Edmonton (around $1010 return).

From Whitehorse, Yukon, First Air flies to Yellowknife (about $1100 return, via Fort Simpson), while Air North (in Canada 867-668-2228, 800-661-0407, in USA 800-764-0407; www.flyairnorth.com) goes to Inuvik ($570 return).

From Iqaluit, Nunavut, both First Air and Canadian North depart for Yellowknife (about $1800 return).

Bus

The sole bus link to the southern NWT is provided by Greyhound Canada, which runs year-round from Edmonton to Hay River for $165 one-way. From there, a regional carrier connects to other communities (see below).

CAR & MOTORCYCLE

There are two overland routes to the southern NWT. From Edmonton, a long (and, frankly, monotonous) day’s drive up Hwy 35 brings you to the NWT border, 84km shy of Enterprise. Alternatively, from Fort Nelson, British Columbia (on the Alaska Hwy), the Liard Trail runs 137 potholed (but paved) kilometers to the border. Fort Liard is another 38km north.

If you’re heading up to the Mackenzie Delta, you can set out from Dawson City, Yukon, on the shockingly scenic Dempster Hwy, which reaches the NWT boundary after 465km.

Getting Around

AIR

Half of the NWT’s 32 communities are fly-in only, accessed from hub airports in Yellowknife, Norman Wells and Inuvik. Service in the North Slave region is provided by Air Tindi (867-669-8260, 888-545-6794; www.airtindi.com), in the Mackenzie Valley by North-Wright Air (867-587-2333; www.north-wrightairways.com), and in the Mackenzie Delta by Aklak Air (867-777-3777, 866-707-4977; www.aklakair.ca).

BUS

Frontier Coachlines (867-874-2566; frontiercoach@nt.sympatico.ca) meets Greyhound Canada in Hay River, and offers connecting buses to Yellowknife (five times a week), Fort Smith (three times a week) and Fort Simpson (twice a week).

CAR & MOTORCYCLE

To best appreciate the NWT, you need wheels. Automobiles can be rented in major communities. For Yellowknife car-rental agencies, Click here; for other towns, contact the local tourism office for information.

The territory has two highway networks: a southern system, linking most communities in the North Slave, South Slave and Deh Cho regions; and the Dempster Hwy, which winds through the Mackenzie Delta. Getting to the Delta from southern NWT requires a two-day detour through BC and the Yukon.

In summer, free ferries cross several rivers; in winter, vehicles drive across on 4ft-thick ice. Travel is interrupted for several weeks during вЂ˜break-up’ (April and May) and, often, вЂ˜freeze-up’ (December or January). For ferry information, call 800-661-0750. The major crossing, at the Mackenzie River on Hwy 3, may soon be obviated by construction of a $150-million bridge.



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NORTHWEST TERRITORIES ITINERARIES

One Week

After flying to Yellowknife (below), spend the morning getting the scoop on the NWT at the Prince of Wales Northern Heritage Centre. Then amble down to Old Town, grab lunch at the famous Wildcat Café and summit Bush Pilot’s Monument. The lake looks inviting, eh? Rent a canoe and leisurely circumnavigate Latham Island, gawking at the shacks, mansions, floatplanes and houseboats. Righteously fatigued, repair to Bullock’s Bistro to sip beer, sup on whitefish and watch the sun not set.



Next morning, rent a car, pack hiking boots and a fishing rod, and explore lake-lined Ingraham Trail. Break out the picnic basket at Cameron Falls.



Now motor west toward the Mackenzie Bison Sanctuary and get close-up snapshots of these woolly behemoths. Car-camp your way along the Waterfalls Route, then backtrack to Fort Simpson. Join a flightseeing tour into Nahanni National Park Reserve and lunch at the legendary Virginia Falls.



Two Weeks

Skip the road trip. Fly from Yellowknife to Fort Simpson, meet your outfitter and spend 10 days paddling the paradisiacal South Nahanni River.





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Before traveling, call 800-661-0750 for highway reports. Click here for general information about driving safely in Canada.


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YELLOWKNIFE

Arising from the wilds, Yellowknife is a subarctic cosmopolis. In the local Tlicho language, this is Somba K’e (place of money). It’s the territorial capital, a mining hub and back-of-beyond boomtown, and the NWT’s biggest community by far, with nearly 19,000 residents.

People-wise, it’s a Northern slumgullion – a spicy if sometimes discordant stew of Dene and Métis from across the territory; Inuit and Inuvialuit from further north; grizzled non-Aboriginal pioneers; get-rich-quick newcomers from southern Canada; plus Armenians, Somalis and other more recent immigrants.

The black, cryogenic winters can break your spirit, but in the hyperactive summers Yellowknife becomes the territory’s must-visit community. Not surprisingly, the greatest diversity of shops and restaurants are here. Conveniently, this is also one of the most scenic towns in the NWT, with unbeatable access to wilderness playgrounds. On hot, sunny days, innumerable lakes and rivers beckon, making this urban outpost a bit like paradise.


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HISTORY

When the first Europeans reached Great Slave Lake in 1771, the north shore was home to the Tetsot’ine who were dubbed the Yellowknives due to their penchant for copper blades. Wars and foreign diseases eradicated them, but on the map the moniker remained.

More than a century later, Klondike-bound prospectors on Yellowknife Bay unearthed a different yellow metal: hard-rock gold. By the mid-1930s, bush planes had made the area accessible to commercial mining. Yellowknife became a boomtown.

In 1967, when Ottawa decided to devolve management of the NWT, Yellowknife, as the most populous town, was picked as capital. The community began to shift from hardscrabble outpost to buttoned-down bureaucratic hub. That shift accelerated horrifically in 1992 when a bitter labor dispute at Giant Mine led to the underground-bombing death of nine strikebreakers. Roger Warren, an unemployed miner, went to jail for life.

Since then, gold mining has ceased in Yellowknife. Four fly-in kimberlite mines north of town are now fueling a new boom, making diamonds the city’s best friend.


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ORIENTATION

Appropriately, Yellowknife is like a knife stabbing northward, its tip – peninsular Old Town – impaling Great Slave Lake and its hilt – downtown – reaching back from the rocky shore. Linking the two is Franklin Ave (50th Ave), the main drag. At its south end, Franklin joins Old Airport Rd, which winds several kilometers through the commercial district.

Downtown has shops, businesses, services and hotels, but its drab architecture and its denizens, a mix of businesspeople and bums, aren’t likely to appeal. More interesting is hilly Old Town, wedged between Back and Yellowknife Bays, where funky cabins and subarctic-style mansions share the views with B&Bs, houseboats and floatplanes. At the tip of Old Town, N’Dilo (dee-lo, meaning вЂ˜end of the road’) is Yellowknife’s aboriginal village.





From the airport to downtown is about 5km via Hwy 3 and 48th St. From the bus station, downtown is 3.5km up Kam Lake Rd and Franklin Ave.


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INFORMATION



Bookstores



Wolverine Guns & Tackle (867-873-8438; Stanton Plaza, cnr Old Airport Rd & Borden Dr; 9am-6pm Mon-Sat) Topographical maps – if the staff can find them.

Yellowknife Book Cellar (867-920-2220; 4923 49th St; 9:30am-6pm Mon-Wed, 9:30am-8pm Thu & Fri, 9:30am-6pm Sat, noon-5pm Sun) Best selection of Northern and aboriginal titles.



Emergencies

Note that 911 is not the emergency number in the NWT.



Ambulance & Fire (867-873-2222) For emergencies.

Police (emergencies 867-669-1111, nonemergencies 867-669-5100; 5010 49th Ave)



Libraries



Yellowknife Public Library (867-920-5642; 2nd fl, Centre Square Mall; 10am-9pm Mon-Thu, to 6pm Fri, to 5pm Sat) An ample Northern book collection, free internet, rowdy youths.



Medical



Stanton Territorial Hospital (867-669-4111; off Old Airport Rd; 24hr) Just off the Frame Lake Trail.



Money



American Express (867-873-2121; Key West Travel, 5014 Franklin Ave; 8:30am-5:30pm Mon-Fri, 11am-3pm Sat)

CIBC (867-873-4452; 5001 Franklin Ave)

Royal Bank of Canada (867-873-5961; 4920 52nd St)

Scotia Bank (867-669-6000; 5102 Franklin Ave)

TD Bank (867-873-5891; 4810 Franklin Ave)



Post



Main post office (867-873-2500; 4902 Franklin Ave)



Tourist Information



Northern Frontier Visitors Centre (867-873-4262, 877-881-4262; www.northernfrontier.com; 4807 49th St; internet access per 15min $1; 8:30am-6pm Jun-Aug, 8:30am-5pm Mon-Fri, noon-4pm Sat & Sun Sep-May) The visitors center has reams of maps and brochures, plus the indispensable Explorers’ Guide, published annually by NWT Arctic Tourism. Inside are exhibits on the NWT environment, but the most powerful display is the parking lot itself, deformed by melting permafrost.




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DANGERS & ANNOYANCES

Drunkenness and dereliction are rampant downtown, particularly on the вЂ˜Gaza Strip’: 50th St between Franklin and 52nd Aves. City leaders seem to have no cure; visitors will be more disgusted than endangered.


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SIGHTS

A top-notch introduction to the NWT is at Prince of Wales Northern Heritage Centre (867-873-7551; www.pwnhc.ca; admission free; 10:30am-5pm Mon-Fri, noon-5pm Sat & Sun Sep-May, 10:30am-5:30pm Jun-Aug), off 48th St overlooking Frame Lake. Here, displays address natural history, European exploration, Northern aviation and, especially, Dene and Inuit ways. Particularly cool is the 30ft-long moosehide boat.

In 1993 the NWT government coughed up $25 million to build the impressive, igloo-shaped Legislative Assembly (867-669-2230, 800-661-0784; www.assembly.gov.nt.ca; admission free; 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, tours given at 10:30am Mon-Fri, also 1:30pm & 3:30pm Mon-Fri & 1:30pm Sun Jun-Aug), which is also off 48th St and near Frame Lake. You can learn about the territory’s aboriginal-style government by joining a free hour-long tour. There’s also excellent Northern art throughout.

At the visitors center, arm yourself with Old Town Heritage Walking Tour of Yellowknife, a superlative illustrated booklet showing the town’s many interesting old buildings, and then head down Franklin Ave to Old Town. The Rock is the large outcrop right before the bridge to Latham Island. Climb the stairs to Bush Pilot’s Monument, from which you can watch the floatplane traffic and envy the folks on polychromatic houseboats in the bay. Summer sunsets – if you can stay up that late – are stunning.

Close by is the city’s legendary lane, Ragged Ass Rd, where mansions now outnumber the sagging gold rush-era cabins that made it famous.


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ACTIVITIES

On hot, bug-infested days, the water is the best place to be. Narwal Adventure Training & Tours (867-873-6443; www.ssimicro.com/~narwal; rentals per evening/day/weekend/week $30/45/80/250), on Anderson-Thompson Blvd on Back Bay, rents canoes and kayaks, and offers tours and lessons. Call ahead. Overlander Sports (867-873-2474; www.overlandersports.com; 4909 50th St; canoe rentals per day/weekend/week $45/75/200, cross-country skis, poles & boots per day/weekend $18/53; 9:30am-6pm Mon-Sat) rents canoes and kayaks in summer and cross-country skis in winter.

In popular Fred Henne Territorial Park (867-920-2472; mid-May–mid-Sep), opposite the airport off Hwy 3, there’s chilly swimming at Long Lake Beach and hiking on the 4km Prospector’s Trail. Get the map from the park office, because it’s common to lose the trail.

Closer to town, and a way better hike, is the 7km Frame Lake Trail, half of which is paved and passes the legislative assembly, museum and pool, and half of which undulates over piney outcrops. Spurs connect to the precipitous Jackfish Lake Trail and the groomed Niven Lake Trail, which is more of a suburban stroll.

Smelly backpackers can shower at Ruth Inch Memorial Pool (867-920-5683; 6001 Franklin Ave; 6am-11pm Mon-Thu, 6am-10:30pm Fri, noon-9:30pm Sat, noon-11pm Sun). There’s also a whirlpool and steam room.


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TOURS

Yellowknife has many tours to choose from; check out the Explorers’ Guide, available from the Northern Frontier Visitors Centre for options.



Air Tindi (867-669-8200; www.airtindi.com; 35 Mitchell Rd) Offers excellent 30-minute tours over the city, the Ingraham Trail and Yellowknife Bay ($225 for up to three people, $495 for four to nine people). There’s also a dramatic four-hour tour to Great Slave Lake’s cliff-flanked East Arm, with an hour-long stop for hiking ($1565 for up to three people, $3015 for four to eight people).

Arctic Escapes (867-445-2829; www.aetravel.ca; per person $29) Conducts a leisurely 1ВЅ-hour walking tour of historic Old Town.

Aurora World (867-873-4776; www.auroraworld.ca) Twice a week it does a two-hour boat tour on Great Slave Lake ($40). On demand there’s also a basic, two-hour bus tour of the city ($35); a weekly trip down Ingraham Trail to Cameron Falls ($60); and, in late summer through winter, aurora borealis viewing tours ($90). In winter it has multiday aurora packages, with dog-sled and caribou-viewing options.

Beck’s Kennels (867-873-5603; www.beckskennels.com; 124 Curry Dr) The Becks are the NWT’s mushing royalty. In winter, go for an 8km guided dogsled tour ($50) or learn to drive your own team ($75). In summer the dogs pull wheeled sleds.

Bluefish Services (867-873-4818; www.bluefishservices.ca) Bluefish takes fisherfolk out on Great Slave Lake to battle grayling, pike and lake trout. Prices range from $89 for 4ВЅ hours up to $240 for 10 hours. It also offers simple one-hour boat tours ($35) and four-hour bird-watching excursions ($89).

Cygnus Ecotours (/fax 867-873-4782; cygnus@theedge.ca; per person $50-60, 4-person minimum) Irrepressible ecologist Jamie Bastedo leads nature walks (four hours) near Yellowknife.




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FESTIVALS & EVENTS

For a capital city, Yellowknife has few quality festivals. The stellar exception is Folk on the Rocks (867-920-7806; www.folkontherocks.com; day /weekend pass $45/65; 3 days mid-Jul), a groovefest on Long Lake featuring everything from hip-hop to Dene drumming. It draws musicians from northern and southern Canada.

The Summer Solstice Festival (www.solsticefestival.ca; late Jun), is actually a series of unrelated events, including cultural performances on National Aboriginal Day (June 21), and, most years, Raven Mad Daze, a downtown street fair.

The city’s official winter bash, Caribou Carnival (www.cariboucarnival.com; Mar), feels a bit like tired self-parody. Held on frozen Frame Lake, it involves cabin-feverish locals competing in contests such as moose calling. Far more vibrant is the Snowking Winter Festival (www.snowking.ca; Mar), run by a grizzled houseboater who hosts concerts, theatrical performances and hockey games at a giant ice-palace he builds on Yellowknife Bay.

Also in March is the Diavik 150 (www.diavik150.com), the NWT’s top sled-dog race, which takes place over three days on Great Slave Lake.


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SLEEPING

When it comes to accommodations, Yellowknife is functional at best. It has few rave-worthy lodgings of any kind, and no hostels, making camping the only budget option. In general, B&Bs are the best deals and Old Town has buckets of them.

Fred Henne Territorial Park (867-920-2472; off Hwy 3; walk-in/nonpowered/powered sites $10/15/20; mid-May–mid-Sep) is the closest campground to town. Opposite the airport, it has full facilities, including showers and toilets. You can walk to downtown in under 40 minutes using the Jackfish and Frame Lake trails. Those with their own transport can also camp along the Ingraham Trail.

Embleton House B&B (867-873-2892, 866-873-2006; www.inntravels.com/canada/nwt/embletonhouse.html; 5203 52nd St; r incl breakfast $70-80; ) Convenient to downtown, this subterranean B&B has decorative-themed rooms (the author bunked in the вЂ˜angel room’) and grub for preparing your own breakfast.

Blue Raven B&B (867-873-6328; tmacfoto@internorth.com; 37 Otto Dr; s/d incl breakfast $70/85) Perched on a hill in Old Town, Blue Raven has a great reputation, amplified by a sundeck that overlooks Yellowknife Bay.

Red Coach Inn (867-873-8511, 877-873-8511; www.redcoachinn.ca; 4115 Franklin Ave; r $129; wi-fi) Somewhat contorted by permafrost, this basic motel is halfway between downtown and Old Town. Most of its rooms have kitchenettes.

Explorer Hotel (867-873-3531, 800-661-0892; www.explorerhotel.ca; 4825 49th Ave; r $198-210; wi-fi) Looming over downtown, this high-rise has comfortable modern rooms, great views, a restaurant and a lounge. A shuttle is available from the airport.


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EATING

Yellowknife has a wider range of restaurants than elsewhere in the territory. A few are quite good, and some offer Northern cuisine, like caribou, musk ox and Arctic char. Vegetarians will eat better here than elsewhere in the NWT.

Budget

Le Stock Pot (867-873-5540; 5012 53rd St; sandwiches $7-10, 8am-6pm Mon-Wed, 8am-8pm Thu & Fri, 10am-6pm Sat) Yellowknife’s delectable deli offers fresh sandwiches, wraps, salads, baked goods and cheeses. All this plus a sunny patio equals the best lunch spot in town.

Diner (867-920-7770; 5008 50th St; meals under $12; 6am-9pm Mon-Sat, 7am-9pm Sun) Around rickety tables, old-timers and deadbeats shoot the bull. Breakfasts and lunchtime burgers are greasy, but the flavor here is all in the patrons.

Sushi North (867-669-0001; 4910 Franklin Ave; mains $8-14; 11am-7pm Mon-Sat) Hopping during the lunch-hour, this excellent place does sushi with a polar spin: the raw fish is Arctic char.

The sole downtown supermarket is Extra Foods (867-669-9100; 48th St entrance, YK Centre; 9am-9pm Mon-Sat, 10am-6pm Sun).

Midrange

Wildcat CafГ© (867-873-8850; cnr Wiley Rd & Doornbos Ln; Jun-Sep) A tourist trap that locals love too, this famed Old Town cafГ© operates out of a 1937 log cabin. A different vendor runs it each summer, so the menu, prices and opening hours vary.

Le Frolic Bistro Bar (867-669-9852; 5019 49th St; mains $12-35; 11am-11pm Mon-Sat) This cheery establishment and the L’Héritage Restaurant upstairs are the token French eateries in Les Territories du Nord-Ouest. The delicious meals range from Montreal smoked-meat sandwiches ($13) to pan-fried Great Slave pickerel ($23).



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LOCAL VOICE

Kate Palfrey, sled-dog racer, Yellowknife



Originally from California, Kate Palfrey moved to Yellowknife to be a professional dog musher. She and her partner, Warren, operate one of the NWT’s leading dog-yards, North Star Kennels. They’ve competed in races throughout North America, and have twice run the Iditarod.



How did you get into dog mushing? When I was five I saw a magazine photo of a musher. I ripped that picture out and I carried it everywhere. I still have it. Mushing is just one of those things I knew I’d do.



For a musher, what’s the advantage of being based in the NWT? The advantage is where we can run. We can leave our yard and go for hundreds of miles. And also, it’s being in an area where there’s a real history of dog-mushing: Everyone you meet here has a link to it – their father or their grandfather ran dogs. There’s a deep appreciation for mushing. And, oh yeah – running under the northern lights is about as magical a thing as you can do.



When people visit you, what do you tell them not to miss? If they’re coming up from a very dramatic landscape, it might seem kind of simple here. But it’s like going to the desert – there’s so much, but if you don’t look closely you won’t see it. There’s the rock formations and all the different colors of lichen and the little trees. My father has one of the best descriptions ever: вЂ˜This landscape reminds me of a bonsai garden.’ Take the time and appreciate the bonsai garden.





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Top End

Bullock’s Bistro (867-873-3474; cnr Ingraham Dr & Wiley Rd; mains $17-28; noon-9pm Mon-Sat, 2-9pm Sun, often closed Oct) This fish shack is the city’s most-revered eatery, despite (or perhaps because of) the irascible service. Only fresh local cod, trout and whitefish make the menu. The atmosphere is ultra-informal, the deck has bay views, and kitsch and countless photos bedeck the walls. Reservations are recommended.

Old Town Landing (867-920-4473; 3506 Wiley Rd; mains $20-45; 11am-4pm & 5-10pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm & 5-10pm Sat & Sun) In a candlelit dining room almost overhanging Back Bay, enjoy grilled Arctic char ($32), musk-ox in a red wine demi-glaze ($45) or other Northern delicacies.


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DRINKING

Maybe it’s the cold, the wintertime dark, or the fact that nearby villages and mines restrict liquor. Whatever the reason, when folks visit Yellowknife they flock to the bars. There are lots of ’em, from swank to foul, and most are near Franklin Ave or 50th St downtown.

Gold Range Hotel (867-873-4441; 5010 50th St; 10am-2am) In this huge, dim, infamous landmark, Northerners have been hooking up, breaking up, dancing up a storm, getting beat up, throwing up and just generally whooping it up since 1958. Predominantly a country-rock saloon, the вЂ˜Strange Range’ has such notoriety that it’s a must-see for visitors; some, it seems, never leave.

Black Knight Pub (867-920-4041; 4910 49th St; 11am-2am) Among the more straight-laced drinkeries, the local favorite is the Black Knight, which has an English-Irish-Scottish theme to its brews and decor. The Top Knight dance club is upstairs.

Javaroma (867-669-0725; 5201 Franklin Ave; 7am-10pm Mon-Fri, 9am-10pm Sat, 10am-10pm Sun; wi-fi) For the city’s best joe, join the legions of coffee-lovers on the comfy couches here.


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SHOPPING

Yellowknife is the best place in Canada to buy Northern art, crafts and clothing. Shops and galleries are numerous. If you can’t find what you want (say, a size XL moosehide vest), request contact information for artisans, who often work on commission.

Northern Images (867-873-5944; www.northernimages.ca; 4801 Franklin Ave; 10am-6pm Mon-Sat) Jointly owned by Northern aboriginal art-and-crafts cooperatives, this excellent place carries the famed Inuit print collections from Cape Dorset, Pangnirtung and Ulukhaktok, along with Dene specialties such as birchbark baskets.

Gallery of the Midnight Sun (867-873-8064; www.gallerymidnightsun.com; 5005 Bryson Dr, 10am-6pm Mon-Sat, noon-5pm Sun) This gallery has an ample supply of aboriginal art, including ornately decorated Dene moccasins and jackets. It also stocks souvenirs made in southern Canada.

Dawn Oman Art Studio (867-920-4681; www.dawnoman.com; 4911 47th St; noon-6pm) Dawn Oman, a nationally lauded MГ©tis painter, renders Northern themes in vivid primary colors. Her work appears on canvas, silk, mouse pads etc in her at-home gallery.

Birchwood Gallery (867-873-4050; www.birchwoodgallery.com; 4810 Franklin Ave; 10am-6pm Mon-Sat) In the YK Centre Mall, this high-end spot focuses on large-scale local paintings and often features guest artists working in the gallery.


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GETTING THERE & AWAY

Air

Yellowknife is the NWT’s air hub. Most flights from outside the territory land here, and most headed to smaller NWT communities depart from here. Brace yourself for high prices. First Air serves Hay River ($203 one way, 45 minutes, Sunday to Friday), Fort Simpson ($333 one way, one hour, Sunday to Friday) and Inuvik ($431 one way, 1¾ hours, Sunday, Monday, Wednesday and Friday), while Canadian North flies to Hay River ($203 one way, 35 minutes, Sunday to Friday), Inuvik ($431 one way, 2½ hours, daily) and Norman Wells ($347 one way, one hour, daily). Smaller airlines sometimes offer good special fares. Northwestern Air Lease goes to Fort Smith ($305 one way, one hour, Sunday to Friday), Buffalo Airways (867-873-6112; www.buffaloairways.com) flies to Hay River ($202 one way, 45 minutes, Sunday to Friday), North-Wright Airways will deliver you to Norman Wells via Deline and Tulita ($566 one way, four hours, Monday to Friday) and Air Tindi lands in Fort Simpson ($325 one way from Monday to Friday but just $180 one way Saturday and Sunday, 80 minutes) and the small Tlicho and Chipewyan communities around Great Slave Lake.

Bus

Inconveniently, Frontier Coachlines is at 113 Kam Lake Rd, in Yellowknife’s industrial boondocks. Buses depart Monday through Friday, stopping in Rae ($30, 80 minutes), Fort Providence ($74, four hours) and Enterprise ($90, seven hours) en route to Hay River ($98, eight hours). From there, connections can be made to Edmonton, Fort Smith or Fort Simpson.

Car

Renting a car in Yellowknife isn’t cheap. A small car typically costs about $75/450 per day/week, plus 30 cents per kilometer, with 250 free kilo- meters thrown in with weekly rentals only.

Rent-a-Relic (867-873-3400; 356 Old Airport Rd; variable, call ahead) is dirt cheap, but you pretty much need a car just to get there. Downtown, try Yellowknife Motors (867-766-5000; cnr 49th Ave & 48th St). Big-name agencies (Click here) such as National and Hertz are at the airport.


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GETTING AROUND

Much of Yellowknife is easily walkable. From downtown to Old Town is about 2km, or a 25-minute walk.

To/From the Airport

Yellowknife’s airport is opposite Long Lake, a couple of kilometers west of downtown. Taxis operate around the clock, charging about $15 for a ride downtown.

Car

With its prominent landmarks, Yellowknife is easy to navigate. Parking around Franklin Ave is metered; free spots are a few blocks away on side streets. Ask at the visitors center about the three-day parking pass for tourists.

Public Transportation

Yellowknife City Transit (867-873-4693; adult/child $2/1.50) runs three routes. Route 1 serves Old Airport Rd and downtown. Route 2 connects downtown and Old Town. The summer-only Rte 3 melds the above two routes together. Most buses run every half hour, roughly 6:30am to 7:30pm Monday to Friday, and for just a few hours on Saturday.

Taxi

Cabs are plentiful. Fares are $3 plus $1.60 per kilometer. The biggest company is City Cab (867-873-4444).


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AROUND YELLOWKNIFE

Ingraham Trail

The Ingraham Trail (Hwy 4), winding 69km northeast of Yellowknife, is where locals go to play. The route reveals scenic, lake-dotted, jack pine–lined Canadian Shield topography, and offers good fishing, hiking, camping, paddling, picnicking and, in winter, skiing and snowmobiling. Blue Lake and Rocky Shore, by naturalist Jamie Bastedo, is an excellent guide to the area (available at the Yellowknife Book Cellar;).

The trail begins inauspiciously, weaving past the rotting infrastructure of Giant Mine. A few kilometers later is the 11km access road to Dettah, a tiny, quiet Dene settlement.

Prelude Lake, 28km from Yellowknife, is a busy, family-oriented weekend spot. It has a vast campground (tent/RV site $10/20; mid-May–Sep 15), a boat launch and nature trails.

At Hidden Lake Territorial Park, 46km from Yellowknife, a 1.2km trail leads to popular Cameron Falls. You can cross the upstream footbridge and crawl to the brink of this marvelous cascade. Another 9km down the Ingraham Trail, just before the highway bridge, a 400m trail goes to Cameron River Ramparts, a small but pretty cousin of Cameron Falls.

At Reid Lake, 61km from Yellowknife, you can swim, canoe or fish for pike, whitefish and trout. The campground (tent/RV sites $10/20; mid-May–Sep 15) is busy on weekends; otherwise it’s quiet. It has a good beach and walking trail, and campsites on the ridge with views of Pickerel Lake.

In summer, the trail ends at Tibbitt Lake where, fittingly, there’s a stop sign. The lake has good fishing and is the start of some fine canoe routes – ask for details at the Northern Frontier Visitors Centre. In winter, this is the beginning of the 570km ice road to the diamond mines. There are no services on the ice road and non-industrial traffic is highly discouraged.


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NORTH SLAVE

This region, between Great Slave and Great Bear Lakes, is rocky, lake-strewn and rich in minerals. Save for the folks in Yellowknife, most people here are Tlicho, living traditional (and nontourist-oriented) lives.


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HIGHWAY 3

From Yellowknife, paved Hwy 3 runs 98km northwest to BehchokГі (formerly Rae-Edzo), rounds the North Arm of Great Slave Lake, and dives 214km to Fort Providence.

The Yellowknife–Behchokó stretch winds through the bogs, taiga and pinkish outcrops of the Canadian Shield. There’s little to see in Behchokó (population 1834), 10km north of Hwy 3 on an access road. Though it’s among the NWT’s largest communities – and by far the biggest aboriginal settlement – it’s very insular, and tourists may feel out of place. It has a basic service station, a café and a convenience store.



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WILDERNESS LODGES

Numerous remote lodges dot the Northwest Territories (NWT), and several are a short floatplane ride from Yellowknife. They’re not cheap, but they’re among the best ways to experience the backcountry. Particularly popular is the year-round Blachford Lake Lodge (867-873-3303; www.blachfordlakelodge.com), east of Yellowknife, which offers activities from fishing to dog-mushing. Consult the Explorers’ Guide Click here for other lodges.





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Across the Hwy 3 bridge, the outcrops vanish and the land becomes flat boreal forest, which is ubiquitous in the southern NWT. The road also changes, becoming wide, straight and smooth. If you’re tempted to gun it, beware: the Mackenzie Bison Sanctuary, with the world’s largest herd of free-ranging, pure wood bison, is just east of here. The animals that graze along the road outweigh your car and have tempers, so be observant. There are no trails or visitor facilities in the sanctuary.

On the south side of the sanctuary, a 5km access road leads to Fort Providence. Bypassing that, you’ll come to a service station, a sometimes-open visitor information booth and, a few kilometers beyond, the free car-ferry MV Merv Hardie (800-661-0750; 6am-midnight). In winter there’s an ice bridge. Work on a controversially expensive bridge enabling year-round crossing of the Mackenzie River may begin in 2008.


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FORT PROVIDENCE

This low-key Slavey community (population 750), near the head of the Mackenzie River, was settled in 1861 with the establishment of a Roman Catholic mission. Halfway along the access road to the community is the pretty (and often quite crowded) Fort Providence Territorial Park (tent sites $15; mid-May–Sep 15). It has pit toilets and riverfront sites.

Fort Providence is a bucolic place – just ask the buffalo that graze in the grassy lots. There are good picnic benches atop the 10m riverbanks, and past the beautiful wooden church is a boat launch. The fishing’s good, and pike, walleye and sometimes grayling can be caught from shore. If nothing is biting, outfitters can take you on the water.

At the entrance to town, the Snowshoe Inn (867-699-3511; www.ssimicro.com/snowshoe; s/d $130/160; wi-fi) has decent, modern, waterfront rooms. Across the road, the short-order Snowshoe Inn Restaurant (867-699-3511; dishes $6-18 7am-8pm Mon-Sat, 10am-8pm Sun; wi-fi) whips up sandwiches and smooth milkshakes ($6). Photos on the wall depict local history. Close by, a fine craft shop features the area’s specialty: moose-hair tufting.


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SOUTH SLAVE

The South Slave Region, encompassing the area south of Great Slave Lake, is mostly flat forestland, cut through by big rivers and numerous spectacular waterfalls. The communities here feel more вЂ˜southern’ – and aboriginal culture is less evident – than elsewhere in the territory.


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MACKENZIE HIGHWAY

From the Hwy 3 junction, 23km south of the Mackenzie River, the Mackenzie Hwy (Hwy 1) branches west into the Deh Cho region and southeast into the South Slave. This latter branch is well traveled and well paved. It runs 186km to the Alberta border (and thence to Edmonton) and is dubbed the Waterfalls Route, due to some stunning roadside cascades.

First up along this route is Lady Evelyn Falls Territorial Park (tent sites $15; mid-May–Sep 15), 7km off the Mackenzie Hwy on the Kakisa access road. There’s a short path to the 17m falls, which pour over an ancient, crescent-shaped coral reef. Another trail leads to the Kakisa River beneath the falls, which is a good whitefish fishing spot. The campground has showers, towering pines and, on weekends, lots of fishermen. Another 6km down the access road is the tiny Slavey settlement of Kakisa (population 52).

From the Kakisa access road it’s 83km to the service-station hodge-podge of Enterprise (population 97). Twin Falls Inn (867-984-3711; s/d $80/85), at the junction of Hwys 1 and 2, offers gas, snacks and utilitarian rooms. Around the bend is Winnie’s (867-984-3211; meals $5-10; 7am-5pm Mon-Sat, 8am-5pm Sun), where greasy breakfasts lubricate the local gossip.

South on the Mackenzie Hwy the road parallels impressive Twin Falls Gorge Territorial Park (mid-May–Sep 15). The eponymous pair of falls are linked by a 2km forested trail, which makes for a lovely hike or cycling route. At the north end of the trail is the tiered, 15m Louise Falls on the Hay River. There are numerous campsites (walk-in/nonpowered/powered sites $10/15/20) nestled in a boreal glade, plus toilets and showers. At the trail’s south end, impressive Alexandra Falls (33m) involves a lot of liquid losing a lot of height; it has a lookout and a picnic shelter.

At the Alberta border, 72km south, is the 60th Parallel Territorial Park. At the Visitors Centre (8:30am-8:30pm mid-May–Sep 15), staff dispense pamphlets, coffee and hit-or-miss advice. There are also displays of aboriginal crafts such as beaded moccasins, and a campground (tent sites $15) with toilets and showers.


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HAY RIVER

A hard-working, hard-bitten town, Hay River has little to offer visitors. Arriving from Enterprise, the first thing you’ll see is the 16-story high-rise looming over the flatness. Then you’ll see the sprawl – kilometers of dilapidated motels, hulking tank farms, creaking railcars and scores of boats and trucks decomposing in weed-choked lots. This is the NWT’s second-largest community (population 3648) and the North’s freight distribution center; it’s the terminus of Canada’s northernmost railroad, the depot for Arctic-bound barges and the port of the Great Slave commercial fishery.

Orientation & Information

If you haven’t turned around yet, you’ll discover two distinct areas of town. The harbor is at the north end on Vale Island; the newer section, with restaurants and stores, is south and will be seen first on arrival by road.

The Visitor Information Centre (867-874-3180; cnr Mackenzie Hwy & McBryan Dr; 9am-9pm Sat-Wed, 9:30am-9pm Thu & Fri) has brochures and semi-helpful teenaged staffers. In the off-season, stop by the town hall, a block north on Commercial Dr. The library (10am-5pm & 7-9pm Mon-Thu, 1-5pm Fri-Sun) next door has free internet access.



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DON’T MISS



Pingos – ascend ice-filled Arctic hills Click here

Smoking Hills – see coal seams ceaselessly smolder Click here

Hot Springs – bathe warmly in cold wilderness Click here

Salt Flats – lick an ancient landscape Click here





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Sights & Activities

If it’s a hot and sunny day, head to the Vale Island beach, which fronts oceanic Great Slave Lake. Otherwise, the visitors center can provide information on hiking, flightseeing, fishing, golf and canoe rentals. Frankly, though, just about anything here is available elsewhere in the NWT, and in a more appealing setting. For an indoor diversion, you might want to check out the Hay River Heritage Centre (867-874-3872; cnr Mackenzie Dr & 102nd Ave; call ahead) in the town’s old Hudson’s Bay trading post.

Sleeping

Hay River Territorial Park Campground (867-874-3772; sites $20; mid-May–mid-Sep) A Frisbee’s throw from the beach, this densely wooded campground has hot showers, a barbecue area and a children’s playground. It’s off 104th St on Vale Island.

Paradise Gardens & Campground (867-875-4430; 82 Paradise Rd; tent/nonpowered/powered $15/20/25) A half-hour south of town on one of the NWT’s few farms, this place has 15 campsites and offers harvest-it-yourself berry picking.

Harbour House B&B (867-874-2233; 2 Lakeshore Dr; s/d $65/85) On flood-cheating pilings above a beachfront lot, this sunny, eight-room B&B has a curious nautical/polar/religious vibe. Guests cook in the communal kitchen.

Ptarmigan Inn (867-874-6781, 800-661-0842; www.ptarmiganinn.com; 10J Gagnier St; s/d $120/130) In the heart of downtown, Hay River’s only true hotel has clean, well-appointed rooms, a pub and a good dining room.

Eating

Fisherman’s Wharf (cnr 101st St & 100th Ave; 10am-2pm Sat mid-Jun–mid-Sep) A weekly outdoor market with fresh fish and Northern-grown produce.

Sub on the Hub (867-874-6898; 73 Woodland Dr; fast food $5-8; 9am-9pm Mon-Fri, 10am-9pm Sat, noon-9pm Sun) Dispensing pizza and burgers from a take-out window in the recreation complex downtown, this place doesn’t so much cook as heat things up.

Back Eddy Cocktail Lounge & Restaurant (867-874-6680; 6 Courtoreille St; mains $15-20; 11am-2:30pm & 5pm-late Mon-Sat) This low-lit dining room is probably the best in town. Featured is fresh-caught Great Slave Lake fish, including pan-fried whitefish topped with scallops and shrimp ($18).

Getting There & Away

AIR

Flying to Yellowknife nearly daily (about $200 one way, 45 minutes) are Buffalo Airways, First Air and Canadian North. Canadian North also operates direct flights to Edmonton ($351 one way, 1ВЅ hours, six times weekly).

BUS

Greyhound Canada has nearly daily service to Edmonton ($165 one way, 16 hours). Frontier Coachlines goes to Yellowknife ($98, eight hours), Fort Smith ($71, three hours) and Fort Simpson ($91, six hours). The depot is just north of the Vale Island bridge.

CAR & MOTORCYCLE

By road, it’s a paved 38km to Enterprise. Along the way is the Paradise Garden farming settlement and the turnoff to Hwy 5, leading 267 partially paved kilometers to Fort Smith.

Getting Around

Once Hwy 2 enters town it’s called the Mackenzie Hwy and becomes the main drag. On Vale Island it changes names again, to 100th Ave. Both Vale Island and downtown are walkable, but they’re a couple of kilometers apart, making wheels desirable. You can pick up a street map at the visitors center at the entrance to town. Reliable Cabs (867-974-4444) provides a taxi service.


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FORT SMITH

On a high bluff above the Slave River, Fort Smith is absurdly friendly, idyllic – and somewhat un-Northern. Maybe it’s the brick homes, ball fields and water tower, or the fact that the town abuts Alberta. For years this was the gateway to the North, situated at the end of a portage route around the Slave River rapids. The Hudson’s Bay Company set up shop here in 1874, and until Yellowknife became the territorial capital in 1967, this was the administrative center for most of Canada’s northern territories. Today the town remains a peaceful, appealing government hub and the headquarters of Wood Buffalo National Park. Two-thirds of the 2360 residents are Cree, Chipewyan or Métis.

Information

The Visitor Information Centre (867-872-3065; www.fortsmithtourism.ca; 108 King St; 8:30am-6pm) is in the recreation complex. It has lots of tourist literature, free internet terminals and a manager who’ll talk your ear off. McDougal Rd and Portage Ave have most of the eateries, hotels and shops, including North of 60 Books (867-872-2606; 66 Portage Ave; 1-5:30pm Tue-Sat). While you’re in town, you may also want to visit the Visitors Reception Centre for Wood Buffalo National Park (see opposite).

Sights & Activities

The Northern Life Museum (867-872-2859; nlmmanager@hughes.net; cnr King St & McDougal Rd; admission free; 10am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat & Sun Jun-Aug) is the North’s best small-town museum, with intriguing displays on local history and culture, plus the corpse of Canus, a whooping crane sire whose sexual efforts helped save his species from extinction.

Weedy Fort Smith Mission Historic Park (cnr Breynat St & Mercredi Ave; admission free) commemorates the days when this was Roman Catholicism’s beachhead into the North. Self-guided tour maps are available from the visitors center; at the museum, you can arrange for a guided tour.

In addition to Wood Buffalo National Park (see opposite), there are several worthwhile activities near town. The rapids in the area are famous for two things: the northernmost nesting colony of white pelicans, which can be seen fishing from midriver islands, and world-class paddling.

The Rapids of the Drowned, in front of the town, are accessible from a stairway off Wolf Ave. Upriver, the Mountain, Pelican and Cassette rapids can be viewed by hiking Fort Smith’s 30km stretch of the Trans Canada Trail, or by shorter walks beginning along the 24km road to Fort Fitzgerald. A trail guide can be acquired at the visitors center.

Sleeping & Eating

Queen Elizabeth Territorial Park (867-872-2607; sites $20; mid-May–Sep 15) At the end of Tipi Trail, 4km west of the town center, this idyllic and usually empty campground lies near the river bluff. Showers and firewood are available.

Thebacha B&B (867-872-2060; www.taigatour.com /bandb.htm; 53 Portage Ave; s/d $110/120; ) Thebacha offers clean, wood-paneled rooms in a pine tree–shaded home near the heart of town. The proprietors also run Taiga Tour Company and rent outdoor gear.

Pelican Rapids Inn (867-872-2789; fax 867-872-4727; 152 McDougal Rd; r $125-155) Across from the park visitors center, the town’s best hotel has standard rooms, cheery help and a restaurant (867-872-2729; mains $7 to $20) with tolerable repasts, ranging from steak to Chinese.

Ed’s Express (867-872-3332; 195 McDougal Rd; mains $5-9; 11am-11pm Mon-Sat). Blessedly, this spartan fast-food eatery does better with its burgers, pizza and donairs than with its décor.

Getting There & Around

Northwestern Air Lease offers flights to Yellowknife ($305 one way, one hour, Sunday to Friday) and Edmonton ($497 one way, two hours, five weekly). Frontier Coachlines runs buses to Hay River ($71, three hours, three weekly). In the winter, an ice road runs to Fort MacMurray, Alberta.

From Hay River, partially paved Hwy 5 cuts through the top of Wood Buffalo National Park; for more on this drive see right. In the winter, an ice road runs from Fort Smith to Fort McMurray, Alberta. Fort Smith proper is walkable, and McDougal Rd is the main drag. For a taxi service, try Portage Cabs (867-872-3333).


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WOOD BUFFALO NATIONAL PARK

Straddling the Alberta–NWT border, Canada’s biggest national park isn’t spectacular, but it is weird. In this Switzerland-sized boreal flatland are salt-springs that encrust the landscape, rivers that disappear underground, and balls of mating snakes.

The park was established in 1922 to protect wood buffalo – a large, dark, distinctly Northern subspecies of bison. About 5500 of them now inhabit the region, and you’ll likely see them grazing along roadsides or wallowing in the dust. (If you’re unlucky, you’ll see them dead: A naturally occurring anthrax outbreak in 2007 caused several beasts to expire near the park’s most popular campground, closing it temporarily.)

Also protected here are whooping cranes – the last wild migratory flock on Earth. These giant birds nearly disappeared, but are rebounding thanks to international safeguards. They, along with millions of ducks and geese, avail themselves of park wetlands, including the enormous Peace-Athabasca Delta. Moose, caribou, bear, lynx and wolves are also residents, along with countless mosquitoes and horseflies. Come prepared for battle.

Orientation & Information

There are two main roads. One of them, Hwy 5, is the 267km partially paved route linking Hay River to Fort Smith. For much of its length it cuts through the park’s northeast corner, where bison are a traffic hazard. South from Fort Smith there’s a dusty 121km road to Peace Point, in the heart of the park.

Park entry is free. The park headquarters are in Fort Smith where there’s an excellent Visitors Reception Centre (867-872-7960; www.pc.gc.ca/buffalo; 149 McDougal Rd; 9am-noon & 1-5pm Mon-Fri, 1-5pm Sat & Sun mid-Jun–early Sep, 9am-noon & 1-5pm Mon-Fri early Sep–mid-Jun). It offers a slide show, hiking maps and displays on the park’s quirky features.



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SLAVE TO THE WAVES

Q: What do the White Nile, the Zambezi and the Slave have in common? A: On each, the world’s hardest-core kayakers get chewed up. But on the Slave, it’s not by crocs.



More than a century after putting Fort Smith on the map, the Slave River Rapids are doing it again. With the worldwide boom in white-water вЂ˜playboating,’ professional paddlers have begun caravanning north, lured by rumors of monster waters, where the Slave slams into the Canadian Shield.



The rapids here have six times the volume of the Grand Canyon and go on for miles, frothing with Oahu-sized whitecaps and seething with Class VI holes. There are hundreds of routes and play spots, and boaters could spend weeks without surfing the same wave twice.



And lest it be thought that the Slave is the NWT’s sole spot for white-water madness, think again. In 2003, pro boater Ed Lucero set a world record, plunging his kayak off 33m Alexandra Falls. He is still alive.





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Sights & Activities

Along Hwy 5, roadside points of interest include the karst topography at Angus Sinkhole, the disappearing Nyarling River and, just outside the park boundary, sudsy Little Buffalo River Falls. Further on, there’s a 13km dirt side road to the Salt Plains Lookout, where a half-kilometer walk leads to a vast white field formed by saltwater burbling from an ancient seabed.

Along the Peace Point road is the Salt River Day-Use Area, home to the continent’s northernmost snake hibernaculum (alas, they only have group sex in late April), and the trailhead for excellent day hikes to salt flats and sinkholes. Down the road 36km, at popular Pine Lake Campground (tent sites $15; late May–mid-Sep), you can swim and bask on white-sand beaches. This is the only roadside campground in the park.

For the adventurous, there are a half-dozen backcountry hiking trails, plus paddling on the historical fur-trade routes along the Athabasca, Peace and Slave rivers. Contact the park for details, permits and info on guided walks and outdoor programs.

Tours

Taiga Tour Company (867-872-2060; www.taigatour.com; 53 Portage Ave) is the park’s only licensed outfitter, offering wildlife-watching, dog-sledding and fishing.

Northwestern Air Lease (877-872-2216; charters@nwal.ca) and Reliance Airways (867-872-4004; www.relianceairways.ca) do flightseeing over the park, including half-hour fly-bys of the salt plains and sinkholes and two-hour overflights of the Peace River Delta.


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DEH CHO

Deh cho means вЂ˜big river’ in the local Slavey tongue, and this region in the southwestern NWT is awash in waterways – most notably the Mackenzie, Liard and Nahanni. The area is also blessed with mountains, comparatively warm temperatures and rich aboriginal culture.


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MACKENZIE HIGHWAY

From the Hwy 3 junction, 30km south of Fort Providence, the gravel Mackenzie Hwy (Hwy 1) cuts west through 288km of flat boreal forest to Fort Simpson. This is a lobotomizingly dull drive, with few views or points of interest.

The blessed exception is Sambaa Deh Falls Territorial Park (tent sites $15; mid-May–Sep 15), which is halfway to Fort Simpson. It features a marvelous roadside waterfall, a fishing spot 10 minutes’ walk downstream through multihued muskeg (look out for the hidden waterfall) and the smaller Coral Falls. The pleasant, clean campground also has showers.

Another 90km further on, at the junction of the Mackenzie Hwy and Hwy 7, is the Checkpoint, a service station, restaurant and motel complex that may or may not be in business by the time you visit.

Here, the Mackenzie Hwy becomes paved. A free car-ferry, the MV Lafferty (800-661-0750; 8am-11:45pm mid-May–late Oct), crosses the Liard River just south of Fort Simpson. In winter there’s an ice bridge. Traffic halts during freeze-up and thaw.

From Fort Simpson, the Mackenzie Hwy continues a rugged 222km north into rolling mountains, reaching the Dene settlement of Wrigley (population 122). Hunting, fishing and trapping remain the basis of this mainly log-cabin village. A winter ice road continues to Tulita.


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FORT SIMPSON

In Slavey, Fort Simpson (population 1216) is Liidlii Kue – where two rivers meet. The voluminous Liard and Mackenzie converge here, and for thousands of years so have the people of the southwestern NWT. Permanent settlement began with a fur-trading post in 1803, and Fort Simpson was soon the Hudson’s Bay Company’s district headquarters. Today, with an easygoing blend of Slavey, Métis and European cultures, it’s the administrative and transport hub of the region and the gateway to nearby Nahanni National Park Reserve (opposite).

The Visitor Information Centre (867-695-3182; vofsvic@airware.ca; 9am-9pm Mon-Fri, 11-7pm Sat & Sun May-Sep), at the entrance to town, has helpful staff and brochures. Also in town are a grocery store, a gas station, a craft shop, ATMs, a library with free internet, and a bank.



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HOT TOPIC: MACKENZIE GAS PROJECT

In the NWT, no topic is hotter than the hullabaloo over the proposed Mackenzie Gas Project – a plan to run a 1220km, $16 billion pipeline down the pristine Mackenzie River valley, linking vast natural-gas fields around Inuvik with the North American pipeline grid south of the 60th parallel.



The proposal first arose in the 1970s, prompting the legendary Berger Inquiry in which Justice Thomas Berger barnstormed the NWT, quizzing Aboriginal people about their opinions on the plan. At the time, consulting Northern natives was almost unheard of, and their passionate opposition – they maintained the pipe would be cultural and environmental genocide – came as a national revelation. The proposal was shelved.



These days, the battlelines are fuzzier. Among the project’s champions is the Aboriginal Pipeline Group, a consortium of NWT native organizations that feel the pipeline – and the money that would flow from it – is their people’s surest escape from poverty. On the flipside, other native groups remain opposed, especially the Deh Cho First Nations of the southern NWT, whose traditional territory would be bisected, and who denounce the project going forward without a settled, and potentially lucrative, land-claim with the federal government.





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Sights & Activities

There’s a walk along the Mackenzie riverfront with views of the driftwood-laden water and of Papal Flats, where thousands gathered to welcome the Pope in 1987. Historic McPherson House and the cabin of eccentric trapper Albert Faille are also nearby. They can be viewed only from the outside unless you join a historical tour; ask at the visitors center for details.

Around Canada Day is the Open Sky Festival (www.openskyfestival.ca), a three-day music-and-arts festival that attracts a variety of performers and craftspeople from across the NWT.

Sleeping & Eating

Fort Simpson Territorial Campground (tent/RV sites $15/20; mid-May–Sep 15) In the woods between the visitors center and Papal Flats, the campground has showers, pit toilets and pleasant campsites.

Nahanni Inn (867-695-2201; nahanin@cancom.net; cnr 100 St & 101 Ave; s/d $140/160) The town’s main hotel is way more expensive than its stained, shoddily maintained rooms would seem to justify.

Bannockland Inn (867-695-3337; www.bbcanada.com/1831.html; s/d $155/165) This posh B&B, located 4.6km east of town off the Mackenzie Hwy, overlooks the sweeping intersection of the rivers. It’s a prime choice if you have a car or another way into town.

Nahanni Inn Restaurant (867-695-2201; meals $7-12; 7am-7pm Mon-Fri, 8am-5pm Sat, 9am-5pm Sun) Downstairs from the hotel, this is where locals gather to gab over greasy-spoon grub.

Getting There & Around

Operating from Yellowknife are Air Tindi ($325 one way from Monday to Friday, $180 one way Saturday and Sunday, 80 minutes) and First Air ($333 one way, one hour, Sunday to Friday). The latter also flies from Whitehorse ($687 one way, two hours, three a week). Frontier Coachlines operates buses from Hay River ($91 one way, six hours, twice a week). Once in Fort Simpson, the town is easily walkable.


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NAHANNI NATIONAL PARK RESERVE

To many, Nahanni means wilderness. Situated in the southwestern NWT near the Yukon border, this 4766-sq-km park embraces its namesake, the epic South Nahanni River. This untamed river tumbles more than 500km through the jagged Mackenzie Mountains.

Dene stories of giants in the area go back thousands of years. Since the early 1900s outsiders have added their own tales about wild tribes, lost gold and mysterious deaths, including the legendary decapitation of two treasure-seeking brothers. Place names such as the Headless Range and Deadmen Valley underscore this mythology.

Appropriately, the Nahanni is a Canadian Heritage river, and the park is a Unesco World Heritage site – the first place given that designation in Canada. In 2007, Canada’s federal government announced plans to protect more of the Nahanni watershed by doubling the park’s size. The eventual settlement of the region’s aboriginal land claim could result in an even bigger park expansion.

Orientation & Information

You can’t get here by road, yet about 1000 people visit yearly. Half are paddlers on epic white-water expeditions; the others are mostly with fly-in day tours to the falls and hot springs. Admission quotas are strict: 12 guided and 12 unguided visitors per night at the Virginia Falls campground, with a maximum two-night stay. For unguided visitors (particularly big groups), it’s wise to reserve months in advance.

You can obtain park information and permits in Fort Simpson at Parks Canada (867-695-3151; www.parkscanada.gc.ca/nahanni; cnr 100 St & 100 Ave; 8:30am-noon & 1-5pm Jun 15-Sep 15, 8:30am-noon & 1-5pm Mon-Fri Sep 16-Jun 14). The day-use fee is $24.75; longer-term visitors pay a flat fee of $148.60.

Sights & Activities

Near its midpoint, the Nahanni River drops 30 stories over Canada’s premier cascade, Virginia Falls; elsewhere it’s framed by canyons, flanked by caves and warmed by Rabbitkettle Hot Springs. Moose, wolves, grizzly bear, Dall sheep and mountain goats patrol the landscape.

Paddling is what Nahanni is all about. If you plan to do this independently, you should be a capable whitewater paddler (in Class IV rapids). This is no pleasure float; people have died here. Consult with the park office for advice, warnings and recommendations on good maps and books. Contact the tour companies for assistance with renting canoes or rafts.

Tours

FLIGHTSEEING

The easiest way to see the park is to join a flightseeing tour. A typical six-hour excursion departs Fort Simpson aboard a floatplane, follows the Nahanni upriver through steep-walled canyons and then lands just above Virginia Falls. Two hours of hiking and picnicking ensue. On these tours, you pay for the plane: about $1900 for a four-passenger craft, and $2800 for six. To find fellow travelers to split the cost, phone the air companies in advance, or ask around town. Flightseeing companies based in Fort Simpson are all located on Antoine Drive near the in-town airstrip.



Simpson Air (867-695-2505, 866-995-2505; www.simpson-air.com)

South Nahanni Airways (867-695-2007)

Wolverine Air (867-695-2263, 888-695-2263; www.wolverineair.com)



PADDLING

Raft or canoe trips can be arranged with a licensed outfitter. Prices range from $3600 to $5700 depending on distance. Trips should be prebooked, preferably months in advance. Canoes are best for people with basic experience; rafts, which are helmed by a guide, are more relaxing and suitable for all skill levels.



Black Feather (705-746-1372, 888-849-7668; www.blackfeather.com)

Nahanni River Adventures (867-668-3180, 800-297-6927; www.nahanni.com)

Nahanni Wilderness Adventures (403-678-3374, 888-897-5223; www.nahanniwild.com)



Most trips begin at either the Moose Ponds, Rabbitkettle Lake or Virginia Falls, because those are where floatplanes can land. From the Moose Ponds to Rabbitkettle is about 160km, much of it Class III whitewater. For the 118km from Rabbitkettle to the falls, the river meanders placidly through broad valleys. Once the falls are portaged, it’s another 252km to Blackstone Territorial Park, first through steep-sided, turbulent canyons, and then along the broad Liard River. The lower-river trip requires seven to 10 days. From Rabbitkettle it’s around 14 days, while from the Moose Ponds it’s 21.

Sleeping

Camping is allowed along the riverbanks. There are only four designated campgrounds; the one at Virginia Falls is staffed and has a dock for canoes and floatplanes, as well as composting toilets exposed to the grandeur of nature. The campground at Rabbitkettle Lake is also staffed.

Getting There & Away

If you are traveling independently, you’ll need to charter an airplane into the park by contacting a flightseeing company.


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LIARD TRAIL

At the Checkpoint, 63km south of Fort Simpson, the dirt Liard Trail (Hwy 7) branches off the Mackenzie Hwy (Hwy 1) and heads south through the Liard Valley, with the Mackenzie Mountains appearing to the west. Black bear and bison abound. The only gas station is at Fort Liard. South of there, at the British Columbia border, pavement starts. The trail links with the Alaska Hwy near Fort Nelson, making a loop through British Columbia, the NWT and Alberta possible. From Fort Simpson to Fort Nelson is 487km. Beware: in wet weather, this road turns to goo.

Halfway between Checkpoint and Fort Liard is Blackstone Territorial Park (tent sites $15; mid-May–Sep 15) with information, a campground, short hiking trails and terrific views of the mountains and the confluence of the Liard and Nahanni. Most trips down the South Nahanni end here.

Across the Liard from Blackstone is Nahanni Butte (population 115), a Slavey village accessible only by air charter or boat, or by ice road in winter. It has a general store, a motel, river-taxi services – and more mosquitoes than anywhere else on Earth.

Fort Liard

Fort Liard has lush forests, prim log homes and the balmiest weather in the NWT. This Dene village still values its traditions, such as weaving birch-bark baskets, which are ornately decorated with porcupine quills. These can be bought at one of the NWT’s finest craft shops, Acho Dene Native Crafts (867-770-4161; adnc@nt.sympatico.ca; cnr Main St & Poplar Rd; 9am-7pm Mon-Sat, to 5pm Sun), in the middle of town. It doubles as the visitors center.

Before you reach the village of nearly 600 souls, the free, rudimentary Hay Lake Community Campground has drinking water and an outhouse. The Liard Valley General Store & Motel (867-770-4441; fax 867-770-4442; cnr Main St & Black Water Rd; s/d $100/130) is on the far side of town. It’s often full, so make reservations.

A cafГ© and a service station are across the road from Acho Dene Native Crafts. The British Columbia border is 38km south.


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SAHTU

Lamentably, or perhaps blessedly, mountain-studded Sahtu is the only region of the NWT inaccessible by road. The Mackenzie, swollen by water draining from one-fifth of Canada, cuts its way through here; in places it’s more than 3km wide. On either side of it, baldheaded peaks arise, guarding some of the wildest country – and best hiking and paddling – left in the world.


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NORMAN WELLS

For the NWT, this historic oil town is a rare bird – a non-aboriginal settlement springing from the boreal frontier, halfway between Fort Simpson and Inuvik. The community itself is mainly of interest to hikers keen on the Canol Heritage Trail. Other than by the trail, the town is only reachable by plane or boat.

Clearly a labor of love, the Norman Wells Historical Centre (867-587-2415; Mackenzie Dr; admission free; 10am-5:30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat, noon-4pm Sun Jul & Aug) is a mini-museum showcasing regional history, geology, arts and crafts, and information on the rivers and the Canol Heritage Trail. There’s a pretty cool giftshop, too.

Sights & Activities

Hikers can explore fossil-laden areas such as Fossil Canyon; picnicking and canoeing are possible at Jackfish Lake. If that doesn’t keep you busy, you can make a trip to the town dump at dusk to look for black bears.

The town is used as a jumping-off point for several canoeable rivers, including the Mountain, Keele and Natla. The friendly folks at Mountain River Outfitters (867-587-2697; www.mountainriver.nt.ca) rent canoes, provide transportation back from the rivers and carry Canol Heritage Trail hikers by boat across the Mackenzie River to the start of the trail (see boxed text).



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WORTH THE TRIP: CANOL HERITAGE TRAIL

Norman Wells’ main attraction is the Canol Heritage Trail, a national historic site that leads 372km southwest to the Yukon border. From there, a road goes to Ross River and the Yukon highway system. The trail was built at enormous monetary and human cost during WWII to transport oil to Whitehorse; Canol is shorthand for вЂ˜Canadian Oil.’ However, the huge project was abandoned in 1945 because the war was almost over and there were cheaper sources of oil.



The route traverses peaks, canyons and barrens. Wildlife is abundant, and there are numerous deep river crossings along the trail. There are no facilities, although you can get a little shelter in some of the old Quonset huts. Hiking the whole length takes three to four weeks, and most people need to arrange food drops. The beginning of the trail is flat and swampy, so day hikes from Norman Wells are not recommended. Some visitors use helicopters, available from Norman Wells, to reach the most interesting parts of the trail; ask at the Village Office (867-587-3700; www.normanwells.com) or Mountain River Outfitters (867-587-2698; www.mountainriver.nt.ca). A couple of dozen stout souls hike the entire trail each year.





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Sleeping & Eating

Annoyingly, the campground (sites free) is exiled a few kilometers upriver from town. Campers often just pitch their tents on the riverbanks in front of the town proper.

Mackenzie Valley Hotel (867-587-3035; www.mackenzievalleyhotel.com; Mackenzie Dr; r $150-200) has a shabby older section and a more expensive, immaculate new wing that overlooks the river. The coffeeshop does decent caribou burgers ($14) plus – believe it! – Chinese food.

Heritage Hotel (867-587-5000; www.heritagehoteInwt.com; Mackenzie Dr; r $215-280; wi-fi) is so new, imposing and posh that it seems out of place in the working-class Wells. Many of the 32 sparkling rooms have river views. There’s a mellow lounge, plus the Ventures dining room, which, with mains like Thai-marinated steak ($22), is the best eatery in town – no contest.

Getting There & Around

Canadian North stops on daily flights between Yellowknife and Inuvik. North-Wright Airways serves Yellowknife and Inuvik (indirectly), as well as the more isolated communities along the river.


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WESTERN ARCTIC

Comprising the Mackenzie Delta, the Richardson Mountains and several High Arctic islands, this is the NWT’s most diverse region. Several national parks are here, plus a scattering of aboriginal hamlets and the prefabricated polis of Inuvik, which can be driven to via the heart-wrenchingly beautiful Dempster Hwy.


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INUVIK

Inuvik (population 3484), a few dozen kilometers from the mouth of the Mackenzie River, is the NWT’s third-largest town and the Paris (ahem!) of the Western Arctic. The town was artificially erected in 1955 to serve as a government administrative post, and with its rainbow-colored rows of houses and warren of above-ground heated pipes, it still feels like a work in progress. From late May through late July, Inuvik has ceaseless daylight. During that time, lots of visitors arrive via the rugged, awesome 747km Dempster Hwy from the Yukon. When winter sets in, ice-roads open up, including a virtual superhighway north to Tuktoyaktuk.

Information



Boreal Books (867-777-3748; 75 Mackenzie Rd; 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat) Has a dusty, antiquated selection of Northern books and CDs.

CIBC Bank (867-777-4539; 134 Mackenzie Rd) Has an ATM.

Inuvik Centennial Library (867-777-8620; 100 Mackenzie Rd; 10am-6pm & 7-9pm Mon-Thu, 10am-6pm Fri, 1-5pm Sat & Sun) Free internet access, a used-book exchange and an excellent selection of Northern books.

Inuvik Regional Hospital (867-777-8000; 285 Mackenzie Rd; 24hr) That blue, red and yellow Lego structure opposite the visitors center.

Parks Canada (867-777-8800; 187 Mackenzie Rd; 8:30am-5pm Jun-Aug, call ahead at other times) This office has info on Tuktut Nogait, Ivvavik and Aulavik National Parks, as well as the Pingo Canadian Landmark. Park visitors must register and de-register here.

Post office (867-777-2252; 187 Mackenzie Rd)

Western Arctic Visitors Centre (867-777-4727, Dec-Feb 867-777-7237; www.inuvik.ca; 284 Mackenzie Rd; 9am-7pm Jun–mid-Sep) Has tourism literature, eager staff, plus a stuffed caribou and other displays. Parks Canada holds summer interpretive programs here; inquire for the schedule.



Sights & Activities

The town landmark is Our Lady of Victory Church (867-777-2236; Mackenzie Rd), also called the Igloo Church, with a resplendent white dome and a lovely interior (though the place is often locked). JГ k Park, 6km south of town, has a good lookout tower for viewing the subarctic terrain.

Northern Images (867-777-2786; 115 Mackenzie Rd; 9am-5:30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5:30pm Sat), in an octagonal log-cabin, is the gallery in town. There are scads of Northern art and crafts here, including $170 beaver-skin caps and $3600 Inuit carvings.

After checking out the above sights, the best thing you can do in Inuvik is get out of town. The easiest way is to drive the Dempster Hwy, a ribbon of gravel that reaches westward into some of the most stunning alpine scenery available. You can rent a Dempster-ready pickup from Arctic Chalet (867-777-3535; www.arcticchalet.com; 25 Carn St) for $120 per day plus 25 cents per kilometer with 100 kilometers free. It’s costly, but worth it.



Both Arctic Chalet and Western Arctic Adventures (867-777-2594; www.inuvik.net/canoenwt) rent canoes and kayaks for about $200 per week.

Tours

Most tours involve flights over the braided Mackenzie Delta and the weatherbeaten Arctic coast, where trees peter out and the landscape becomes riddled with pingos: ice-cored hills that erupt from the tundra. Photographers should try for a seat at the rear of the plane.



Arctic Chalet (867-777-3535; www.arcticchalet.com; 25 Carn St) Provides year-round adventure services in addition to their comfy cabins. In winter, dogsled tours are run daily ($100). Participants are given the opportunity to command the teams of snow-white huskies over the trails.

Arctic Nature Tours (867-777-3300; www.arcticnaturetours.com; 8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat, 10am-5pm Sun) In an office behind the Nova Inn near the entrance to town, Arctic Nature offers numerous tours, the most popular being a half-day flight to Tuktoyaktuk on the Arctic coast ($280 per person). It offers a $35 Inuvik town tour, boating in the Mackenzie Delta ($65 per person) and air excursions to untouched places such as Herschel Island.



Festivals & Events



Sunrise Festival (867-777-2607; early Jan) Brings the locals together for fireworks on the ice to greet the first sunrise after 30 days of darkness.

Great Northern Arts Festival (867-777-3536; www.greatnorthart.com; late Jul) The North’s top art festival, drawing scores of carvers, painters and other creators from across the circumpolar world. This is an ideal place to buy Arctic art, watch it being made, or participate in workshops and cultural presentations.



Sleeping

Jàk Park Campground (867-777-3613; tent/RV sites $15/20; Jun-Aug) This pretty government-run campground, about 6km south of town on the Dempster Hwy, provides hot showers and firewood. There’s a good view of the delta and the breeze keeps the mosquitoes down a bit.

Happy Valley Campground (867-777-3652; Franklin Road; walk-in/nonpowered/powered sites $10/15/20; Jun-Aug) Practically downtown, this campground offers the same services as Jàk Park. Stay here if you’re car-less and on a budget; otherwise, choose Jàk.

Polar B&B (867-777-2554; www.inuvik.net/polar; 75 Mackenzie Rd; r from $95) Upstairs from the bookstore, this B&B has four large rooms with shared bath, common area and kitchen. It’s centrally located – perhaps too much so.

Arctic Chalet (867-777-3535; www.arcticchalet.com; 25 Carn St; r $110-130; wi-fi) The Arctic Chalet, with its sunny cabins in a boreal glade, is the best place to stay in Inuvik. Each building has simple kitchen facilities. The energetic owners rent canoes, kayaks and cars, run dogsledding tours and are objective sources of local info. The Chalet is about 3km from town. There’s a rustic cabin sans facilities ($50) for travelers who want a true pioneering experience.

Mackenzie Hotel (867-777-2861; www.inuvikho hotels.com; 185 Mackenzie Rd; s/d $169/184; ) Recently overhauled, this is the town’s high-end hotel, with chandeliers in the lobby and nice art in the spanking-new rooms. The place is also home to Tonimoes restaurant and Shivers lounge.

Eating & Drinking

In recent years, Inuvik’s culinary situation has become dire. You’d be wise to self-cater. Occupying a full block of downtown, Northmart is the town’s big grocery.

CafГ© Gallery (867-777-2888; 90 Mackenzie Rd; meals $5-12; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, noon-5pm Sat) Belying its name, this is a charmless joint where locals join for joe. There are also espressos, muffins, soups and sandwiches.

Tonimoes (867-777-2861; 185 Mackenzie Rd; lunch mains $10-13, dinner mains $12-36; 7am-2pm & 5-9pm) With standard breakfasts, burger-y lunches and a surf-and-turf dinner menu, this low-lit dining room is the town’s sole respectable eatery.

Shivers (867-777-2861; 185 Mackenzie Rd; 11am-12:30am Mon-Sat) Despite the inane name, this spacious, low-key pub, located opposite Tonimoes in the Mackenzie Hotel, is a fine place to tipple.

Getting There & Away

AIR

Mike Zubko Airport is 14km south of town. Town Cab (867-777-4777) charges $25 between there and downtown.



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WHAT THE…?

Opposites attract, and nowhere more so than in the NWT’s cold, lonely Arctic, where a polar bear and a grizzly – normally enemies – got amorous. Their love-child was discovered when a sport-hunter bagged it in 2006. Dubbed “Pizzly,” the blond bruin was the first natural grizzly-polar bear hybrid known to science.





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Air North operates flights to Dawson City, Old Crow and Whitehorse. Aklak Air (866-707-4977; www.aklakair.ca) has scheduled services to Tuktoyaktuk, Paulatuk and Sachs Harbour, and provides charters to the national parks. Canadian North services Norman Wells (daily) and Yellowknife (daily), where you can make connecting flights to Calgary and Edmonton. First Air operates flights to Yellowknife, where there are connections throughout the North.

CAR

Arctic Chalet Car Rental (867-777-3535; www.arcticchalet.com; 25 Carn St) rents a range of vehicles and has a counter at the airport. NorCan (867-777-2346; norcan@inuvik.yk.ca) also has an airport counter. If you are driving, it’s vital that you check Dempster Hwy road and ferry conditions (800-661-0750).


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TUKTOYAKTUK

About 140km northeast of Inuvik on the storm-battered coast is Tuktoyaktuk (population 870), perhaps the most-visited community in the Canadian Arctic. Commonly known as Tuk (hence the вЂ˜Tuk U’ T-shirts you’ll be likely to see across the territory), this has long been the home of the whale-hunting Inuit and is now also a land base for Beaufort Sea oil and gas explorations.

Pods of beluga whales can sometimes be seen in July and early August. Visible year-round are pingos, of which the Tuk Peninsula has the world’s highest concentration. Some 1400 of these huge mounds of earth and ice dot the landscape and have been designated the Pingo Canadian Landmark. The hamlet office (867-977-2286) can provide more information on the area and services.

There is an old military base here, dating from the cold war, as well as old whaling buildings, and two charming little churches dating from the time when the Catholic and Anglican churches battled to proselytize the Aboriginal people. Land access is limited to a winter ice road, and most tourists arrive by air in the summer as part of half-day tours from Inuvik.


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PAULATUK

This small Inuvialuit community of 300 residents is on the Arctic coast near the mouth of the Hornaday River, about 400km east of Inuvik. The town’s name means вЂ˜soot of coal’; one of the main attractions is the Smoking Hills, which contain smoldering sulfide-rich slate. For more information, contact the hamlet office (867-580-3531).

Tuktut Nogait National Park

Paulatuk is the closest settlement to this park, a wild place about 45km east that’s a major calving ground for Bluenose caribou. There are no services or facilities here; however a small visitors center for the park is open for inspection in town during the summer. For information, contact Parks Canada (867-777-8800; 187 Mackenzie Rd; 8:30am-5pm Jun-Aug, call ahead at other times) in Inuvik.


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BANKS ISLAND

Lying in the Arctic Ocean to the north of Paulatuk, Banks Island may have been first inhabited 3500 years ago. By polar standards wildlife is abundant, and this is one of the best places on Earth to see musk ox. The island also has two bird sanctuaries with flocks of snowgeese and seabirds in the summer. Sachs Harbour, an Inuvialuit community of about 120, is the only settlement. Contact the hamlet office (867-690-4351) for information. There is a scheduled air service to Sachs Harbour from Inuvik.

Aulavik National Park

On the north end of Banks Island, this seldom-visited park (just five tourists came in 2007) covers 12,275 sq km. It has the world’s largest concentration of musk ox as well as badlands, tundra and archaeological sites. The name means вЂ˜place where people travel’ and that’s what you’ll have to do to get there. Contact Parks Canada (867-777-8800; 187 Mackenzie Rd; 8:30am-5pm Jun-Aug, call ahead at other times) in Inuvik for details on visiting.




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Nunavut





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IQALUIT

HISTORY

ORIENTATION

INFORMATION

SIGHTS

ACTIVITIES

TOURS

SLEEPING

EATING

DRINKING

SHOPPING

GETTING THERE & AROUND

BAFFIN REGION

KATANNILIK TERRITORIAL PARK

PANGNIRTUNG

AUYUITTUQ NATIONAL PARK

CAPE DORSET

POND INLET

RESOLUTE

QUTTINIRPAAQ NATIONAL PARK

KIVALLIQ REGION

RANKIN INLET

KITIKMEOT REGION

CAMBRIDGE BAY



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When people say вЂ˜Arctic,’ Nunavut is what they mean: a supergiant, blizzard-wracked, frost-shattered land of peaks, polar bears, icebergs – and a population that rounds to zero. Size-wise, this place dwarfs Mexico, but supports fewer folks than Liechtenstein.

The people who are here are Inuit. In their language, nunavut means вЂ˜our land.’ More than any other Aboriginal group in the hemisphere, they remain master of their ancient homeland, enduring – no, adoring – a place so harsh foreigners could never quite conquer it. Inuit form 85% of the territory’s population and, thanks to the separation of Nunavut from the Northwest Territories in 1999, enjoy democratic control of the government, plus legal title to millions of acres. But Nunavut governs them too. Natural rhythms prevail and if you visit when caribou are in the hills you may find everyone has closed shop and gone hunting.

For travelers, Nunavut is a paradox: it’s so odd and imposing that you’ll never grow complacent, but you’ll quickly run out of affordable things to do. You’ll also need patience: polar weather unravels itineraries. Moreover, people here can be maddeningly unhelpful.

The best tourism opportunities are on southern Baffin Island, which has intriguing communities and two utopian parks for hiking, paddling and wildlife-viewing. Further afield is the Kivalliq region on the Hudson Bay coast, the Kitikmeot on the Arctic shore, and the islands of the High Arctic. Even devout do-it-yourselfers should contemplate tackling Nunavut via a cruise vessel or an organized tour, in order to manage the size, cost and logistical hurdles of this place – and to avoid the too-real danger of things going pear-shaped in the polar wilds.



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HIGHLIGHTS



Feel small beside the planet’s most precipitous cliffs in Auyuittuq National Park

Encounter soapstone polar bears – but watch out for real ones – in the Inuit art mecca of Cape Dorset

Chomp char, chew caribou and munch musk ox at one of the many eateries in Canada’s most curious capital, Iqaluit

Moonwalk across awesomely lunar Resolute, where nothing grows despite four months of midnight sun

Splash amid the cascades, caribou and canoe-friendly currents of the Edenic Soper River





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History

Nunavut has been peopled for about 4000 years, though the Inuit arrived just a millennium ago, migrating from Alaska. For countless generations they lived here nomadically, pursuing game as the season dictated and devising an ingenious material culture to cope with the conditions.

Though Vikings may have visited Baffin Island (Helluland in the sagas), the first definitive European arrival was in 1576, when Martin Frobisher came seeking the Northwest Passage. For the next 375 years the Arctic saw more explorers (including Sir John Franklin, who disappeared here in 1845), whalers, traders and missionaries. In a vast land, these visits had comparatively little impact on the Inuit.





Then, after WWII, Nunavut’s history went supersonic. Canada finally took interest in the Arctic, recognizing its strategic importance. In the 1950s and ’60s Inuit were settled into villages and, in some cases, relocated to the High Arctic to bolster national sovereignty.

In the 1960s and ’70s rising political awareness among the Inuit inspired dreams of self-government. After years of negotiations, Canada’s map was redrawn in 1999. Nunavut split from the Northwest Territories and became a separate territory. Many of the Inuit who now govern here were born in igloos and raised nomadically.

Local Culture

In Canada’s cultural stew, Nunavut’s the most exotic ingredient. Most residents are Inuit – the legendary вЂ˜Eskimos’ (the term is considered embarrassingly archaic) who are only a generation removed from Nanook of the North.

Nowadays, superficially at least, modernity has engulfed them. Tourists seeking childlike, nose-rubbing indigenes will be out of luck. Town life has trumped nomadism; plywood homes have obviated igloos; snowmobiles outnumber dog-teams a hundredfold. Everyone watches the same stupid TV shows we all do.

And yet the place is wild. Inuit remain at heart hunter-gatherers. Though the tools of their trade have changed, nature and its rhythms still hold sway. Harvesting animals remains a holy sacrament. Discussions with locals here invariably revolve around wildlife and weather and it’s clear there are mixed feelings about no longer being вЂ˜on the land.’

In addition to being Inuit-dominated, Nunavut culture is profoundly rural. Except in Iqaluit, there are zero urban refinements. Communities are ramshackle, roads are mud-rutted, yards are festooned with junk. Dysfunction is everywhere, from graffiti to suicide. People can seem sullen or aloof, though seldom hostile. The best advice for enjoying the place is to slow down, chill out and check your southern standards at the door.

Language

Forget English versus French: here Inuktitut is king. It’s the primary tongue of 70% of Nunavummiut, and the only language for many elders and children. It’s not easy to grasp, being guttural as well as polysynthetic (meaning words morph together to form paragraph-sized monsters), and it’s also hard to read, because it’s mostly written in syllabics (an inscrutable orthographic system based on syllables instead of letters).

You’ll get by fine if you combine English, hand gestures and a sense of humor. Still, a few local words will help bridge the cultural divide:



Land & Climate

Gargantuan Nunavut sprawls over North America’s northeastern flank. About half – the part on Canada’s mainland – is the вЂ˜Barrenlands,’ an expanse of undulating rock and tundra cut through by legendary rivers like the Thelon and the Kazan. Even more barren is the rest of the territory – mostly the Arctic archipelago, which scatters north to Ellesmere Island, just shy of the Pole, and east to Baffin, home to sky-scraping mountains and half of Nunavut’s population.

Unsurprisingly, the territory is chilly. Snow holds sway from September to early June; relentless winds create hard-to-fathom chill factors, such as the –92°C once recorded at Kugaaruk. July to mid-August is summer, when the seas thaw beneath perpetual sun. During this time highs average 12°C in Iqaluit and 7°C further north in Resolute. Much warmer temps – even above 30°C – occur, but so too do mid-July blizzards.



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NUNAVUT FACTS



Population 29,474

Area 2,093,190 sq km

Capital Iqaluit

Birthplace of Susan Aglukark (musician), Kenojuak Ashevak (artist), Jordin Tootoo (hockey player), Sheila Watt-Cloutier (activist).

Home to nearly half of all polar bears on earth

Kilometers of highway 21





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HOT TOPIC: POLAR BEAR HUNTING

In Nunavut, home to half the world’s polar bears, the mighty bruin wears many hats: territorial mascot, man-eating killer, climate-change poster child. It’s no wonder, then, that the bears’ key role in the territory’s multimillion-dollar sport-hunting industry is a topic that’s, well, polarized.



Recently, with all the global concern over receding ice and the fate of the great white bear, the US Congress has toyed with banning importation of polar-bear hides. That idea gets raspberries from Canada’s Inuit guides, who earn around $25,000 per hunt helping hunters – mainly Americans – secure prized polar-bear pelts. According to Inuit, the pelt ban would slay the bear-hunting business, putting an end to one of the few big-money, on-the-land vocations available in small-town Nunavut.



Tied into this debate is the argument, oft-voiced by Inuit, that polar bears aren’t actually imperiled. Scientists from down south, they insist, are either scaremongers or simply unaware of what’s obvious to locals: that bears are, if anything, becoming more common. Not so, say scientists. They maintain that because climate change is causing bears to go hungry, the beasts have turned to scavenging around towns – causing the impression that their numbers are on the rise.





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The prime visitor season is July and August. For dogsledding and other snow sports, come in late April or May.

Parks & Wildlife

Nunavut boasts four flabbergasting national parks. The crown jewel is easy-to-access Auyuittuq, set amid the glaciers, fjords and sky-high cliffs of eastern Baffin Island. The other three are rarely visited: otherworldly Quttinirpaaq, Canada’s northernmost park, on far-flung Ellesmere Island; summit- and seabird-strewn Sirmilik, on the north coast of Baffin Island; and Ukkusiksalik, rife with whales and bears, in the northern Kivalliq region. For information, contact Parks Canada (867-975-4673; nunavut.info@pc.gc.ca).

Nunavut also has numerous territorial parks. Some are mere campgrounds, others are historic sites and a few, like Katannilik, near Iqaluit, are sizable, spectacular national treasures. Parks Nunavut (867-975-7700; www.nunavutparks.com) can provide loads of good info.

In Nunavut’s parks, wildlife rules. Waterfowl bound for breeding grounds fill the sky by the millions; caribou, musk ox, wolves and snowshoe hare inhabit the tundra, while the oceans are home to seal, walrus, whales and the arctic icon, the polar bear.

Dangers & Annoyances

Polar bears aren’t just on Nunavut’s license plates. Nanuq (the Inuit name) is an inveterate wanderer and can turn up just about anywhere, any time of year. Worse, unlike grizzlies and black bears, they actively prey on people. Inquire about bear sightings before trudging out of town, or go with a shotgun-toting guide. For more on polar bears, Click here.

Information

Iqaluit-based Nunavut Tourism (866-686-2828; www.nunavuttourism.com) is the territory’s official oracle of visitor info. It’s got a splashy and comprehensive website, and can answer queries, and mail you the swell Nunavut Travel Planner. A more extensive but less up-to-date resource is The Nunavut Handbook, produced by Iqaluit’s Ayaya Communications (867-979-1484; www.ayaya.ca).

Getting There & Around

Ditch the car. Nunavut is basically roadless, so the only way to get here is via (impoverishingly pricey) flights. Iqaluit has nearly daily arrivals from MontrГ©al and Ottawa aboard First Air (800-267-1247; www.firstair.ca) and Canadian North (800-661-1505; www.canadiannorth.com) starting at $1500 return. Both airlines serve Iqaluit from Yellowknife for about $1800 return.

Rankin Inlet is linked to Winnipeg by Calm Air (800-839-2256; www.calmair.com), Kivalliq Air (877-855-1500; www.kivalliqair.com) and First Air starting at $1300 return. Cambridge Bay is accessible from Yellowknife on First Air and Canadian North for about $1100 return.

Smaller communities are reached by air from three hubs. From Iqaluit, First Air and Kenn Borek Air (867-252-3845; www.borekair.com) serve the High Arctic and Baffin Island. From Rankin Inlet, Calm Air and Kivalliq Air cover the Kivalliq region. From Cambridge Bay, First Air and Canadian North cover the Kitikmeot region.



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NUNAVUT ITINERARIES

One Week

After arriving in Iqaluit (below), revel in contemporary Inuit art at the Nunatta Sunakkutaangit Museum (opposite), the Legislative Assembly (opposite) and galleries. By now parched and famished, join half of Iqaluit for beer and a burger at the Storehouse Bar & Grill.



On the second day, get out of town – first, aboard a boat tour to Qaummaarviit Historic Park (opposite) and then by stalking fox and snowy owls in Sylvia Grinnell Territorial Park (opposite).



On the third day, make a splash in Katannilik Territorial Park: rent a canoe from an Iqaluit outfitter and fly to the Soper River. For the next five days, float through a polar paradise, bathing under waterfalls and slipping silently past caribou on the riverbank.



Two Weeks

After exercising your arms on the Soper, it’s time to work those legs. Fly to Pangnirtung, check out the Uqqurmiut Centre for Arts & Crafts then catch a boat ride to Auyuittuq National Park. Hike pristine, surreal Akshayuk Pass beneath icy spires and the tallest cliffs you’ll ever see.





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IQALUIT

Nunavut’s seat of government, Iqaluit (ee-kal-oo-eet), is Canada’s culture-clash capital, at once futuristic and primeval, worldly and Third Worldly, utterly bizarre and tediously banal. Unlike the territory’s parochial villages, this is a boomtown of Johnny-come-latelies: Ottawa paper-pushers and grunts from Newfoundland, plus Inuit professionals and politicians from around the Arctic. Many of these Inuit walk in two worlds (as the cliché goes), wearing sealskin vests over tailored suits and yammering into cellphones about whale-hunting.

The dusty, debris-strewn townscape of Iqaluit, with its moon-base buildings and tangle of above-ground pipes, is perversely fascinating for a while, and there are some sights, restaurants and shops worth a stop. However, real life here takes place on the land, and most visitors head out of town, hiking along the Sylvia Grinnell River or taking a boat tour to Qaummaarviit Historic Park.


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HISTORY

Each summer for centuries, nomadic Inuit trekked to the Sylvia Grinnell River to spear char in the roiling waters. They called the area Iqaluit: place of fish.

In 1576, Martin Frobisher showed up. The English naval captain, on a quest for the fabled Northwest Passage, had made a wrong turn into what’s now Frobisher Bay. There he unearthed glittering yellow ore, mined it, and sailed home with a million-plus pounds of worthless fool’s gold.

For another 350 years local Inuit kept fishing, interrupted occasionally by whalers, explorers and missionaries. Then, during WWII, American servicemen established an airbase. After the war, Canadian forces stayed on, and the outpost, named Frobisher Bay, became the administrative center of the eastern Arctic.

In 1987 the community officially changed its name to Iqaluit, and in 1995 voters picked it (over Rankin Inlet) to be Nunavut’s capital.


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ORIENTATION

Set amid high, rocky hills overlooking Koojesse Inlet, Iqaluit is a city planner’s nightmare. In the past decade the population has doubled (to more than 6000), causing sprawl and traffic snarls – obviously unusual in the Arctic. Only in the past few years have street signs arisen; locals ignore them, giving directions based on landmarks, the names of major buildings and a baffling system of house numbers. Cabbies know where everything is, but if you’re walking, get a tourist map from the visitors center.

The heart of Iqaluit is the вЂ˜Four Corners’ – the intersection of Queen Elizabeth Way and Niaqunngusiaq Rd. These two streets loop around to form what is colloquially called the Ring Rd, encircling the city’s jumbled core. Within the ring is the city’s most prominent landmark, the towering Astro Hill complex.

A few kilometers east of town by road is Apex, where Inuit lived during WWII.


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INFORMATION



Ambulance & Fire (867-979-4422) For emergencies. Note that 911 is not the emergency number in Nunavut.

Arctic Ventures (867-979-5992; Queen Elizabeth Way; 10am-10pm Mon-Sat, 1-10pm Sun) Tucked away upstairs is a spectacular selection of Arctic books and CDs.

Baffin Regional Hospital (867-979-7300; Niaqunngusiaq Rd; 24hr)

Iqaluit Centennial Library (867-979-5400; Sinaa St; 1-6pm Mon & Wed, 3-8pm Tue & Thu, 3-6pm Fri, 1-4pm Sat & Sun) In the visitors center building, with free internet.

Police (emergencies 867-979-1111, nonemergencies 867-975-0123) Note that 911 is not the emergency number in Nunavut.

Royal Bank of Canada (867-979-8700; cnr Queen Elizabeth Way & Niaqunngusiaq Rd) This bank is at the Four Corners intersection. Nearby is the CIBC bank.

Unikkaarvik Visitors Centre (867-979-4636; Sinaa St; 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 1-4pm Sat & Sun) Might not have the most knowledgeable staff, but offers ample pamphlets, an informative mini-museum and a reference collection of Nunavut books and videos.




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SIGHTS

Nunavut’s prefab Legislative Assembly (867-975-5000, 877-334-7266; Federal Rd; admission free; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, tours 1:30pm Mon-Fri Jun-Aug or by appointment) is no marble-columned parliament, but has touches such as sealskin benches and a narwhal-tusk ceremonial mace. Local art is displayed in the foyer.

Nunatta Sunakkutaangit Museum (867-979-5537; Sinaa St; admission free; 1-5pm), though itty-bitty, is worth a look. It has a permanent gallery of Inuit artifacts, a fine little gift shop and, best of all, temporary exhibits such as Pangnirtung’s famed annual print collection.

The waterfront, between the breakwater and Coast Guard Station, is the locus of traditional Inuit activity. Amid the old snowmobiles and fuel cans, hunters butcher seals and build boats and sleds. Ask before taking photos.

Apex Beach (Bill Mackenzie Rd) is the site of the photogenic red-and-white Hudson Bay Trading Post complex, though the only structure you can enter is the refurbished Gallery By the Red Boat.


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ACTIVITIES

Despite the spongy, ankle-bending terrain, Iqaluit’s wide-open landscapes make hiking a delight. Trails are few, but the absence of trees means it’s hard to get lost. There are sometimes caribou and fox at Sylvia Grinnell Territorial Park (Iqaluit Rd; admission free), where paths lead to a waterfall, rapids and escarpments. The park is 2km out of town: head toward the airport, then follow the signs. Other excellent hikes include tracing the waterfront from downtown to Apex or, at low tide, exploring Tarr Inlet beyond Apex.

Not keen on perambulating? All-terrain vehicles and, in winter, snowmobiles are available for rent from Qairrulik Outfitting (867-979-6280; www.qairrulikoutfitting.com; snowmobiles/ATVs per day from $220/$275). Alas, no one currently rents kayaks, but this may change. It’s worth asking around because Koojesse and Tarr inlets have great paddling.

Blueberry picking is a tasty way to get familiar with the exquisite, delicate tundra. Berries flourish near the river and above Apex. Take a container or gobble as you go.


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TOURS

Though outfitters vary from year to year, there are usually a handful of tours available, from helicopter flights to dogsled journeys. Consult the Nunavut Travel Planner or the staff at the visitor center for specifics. Most tours require minimum numbers, so bring friends or reserve early so other visitors can be rounded up.



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NICE PACKAGES

Independent travel offers the intrepid the chance for trailblazing, saving cash and seeing the real guts of a place. Except, perhaps, in Nunavut. Here more than anywhere else in Canada you should consider a package tour: Only big groups can achieve the economies of scale that make the Arctic affordable. Sure, a $4000 cruise is spendy, but on a per-day basis, it’s little costlier – and a lot more fun – than hunkering down in a High Arctic hotel. Nunavut package tours are numerous, ranging from guided hiking in Auyuittuq National Park to taking a nuclear-powered icebreaker to the Pole. For a rundown of tour operators and outfitters, see the annual travel planner from Nunavut Tourism (867-979-6551, 866-686-2888; www.nunavuttourism.com).





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Polynya Adventure (867-979-6260, 866-366-6784; www.polynya.ca) designs a variety of offerings, including city historical tours, summer boat excursions in Frobisher Bay and dogsledding in the winter. They or other outfitters can take you to the recommended Qaummaarviit Historic Park, 12km from town. The park preserves a 750-year-old Inuit winter camp. Sod houses – and human bones – are still there.


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SLEEPING

Camping is the only cheap option. For everything else, book ahead and prepare to hemorrhage cash.

Sylvia Grinnell Territorial Park (Iqaluit Rd; tent sites free) There are no facilities here except pit toilets.

Rannva’s Bed & Breakfast (867-979-3183; www.rannva.com/B&B; Bldg 3102, Helen Maksagak Dr; s/d incl breakfast $120/140; wi-fi) In the bright вЂ˜old nursing station’ in atmospheric but out-of-the-way Apex, Faroese seamstress Rannva Simonsen crafts snazzy sealskin garments and lodges guests.

Beaches Bed & Breakfast (867-979-3034; beaches@baffin.ca; Bldg 114, Sinaa St; s/d incl breakfast $135/155; ) This adults-only B&B overlooks the waterfront, neighbors the museum and visitor center and is a short stroll from downtown to boot.

Frobisher Inn (867-979-2222, 877-422-9422; www.frobisherinn.com; Astro Hill; r $220; wi-fi) Up on the hill, the вЂ˜Frobe’ has modern, bayside rooms with marvelous views. There’s a good restaurant, and the Astro Hill complex has a coffeeshop, pool, bar and movie theater.


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EATING

Iqaluit has Nunavut’s broadest range of culinary options, including several places that serve вЂ˜country food.’ Shame on any Arctic tourist who fails to gorge on caribou!

Snack (867-979-6767; Nipisa St) Before it burned down in 2007, this Francophone-run diner served up 1950s kitsch and cheap, decent, mainstream meals (on paper plates). Word is that it’ll rise from the ashes.

CafГ© Northern Lights (867-975-3261; cnr Queen Elizabeth Way & Niaqunngusiaq Rd; lunches $6-12; 8am-5pm Mon-Fri) In the Royal Bank building, this fast, cheap, popular lunch spot does soup-and-sandwich specials ($8) and stir-fries ($11).



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WHAT THE…?

Years ago in Iqaluit a gravel trail was built to a proposed dumpsite north of town. When dump plans died, the road remained. Local wits dubbed it вЂ˜Road to Nowhere.’ Eventually the name was added to city maps. It became Nunavut’s most-photographed street sign – after signs were finally erected a few years ago.





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Kamotiq Inn (867-979-1193; cnr Queen Elizabeth Way & Niaqunngusiaq Rd; dishes $10-17; 11:30am-10pm Mon-Sat, noon-10pm Sun) This ramshackle geodesic igloo offers mainstream North American pizza and burgers, plus (we dare you) raw, frozen cubes of caribou meat dipped in garlic sauce ($27). Alas, there’s a rumor it may be torn down.

Frobisher Inn (867-979-2222; Astro Hill; mains $25-42; 7am-2pm & 5-8:30pm Mon-Fri, 8am-2pm & 5-8:30pm Sat & Sun) A popular, palatable dining room offering pasta, steak and Northern cuisine, including caribou stew ($27) and grilled Davis Strait char ($34). In the evening, artists hawk their wares in the dining room.

Discovery Lodge Hotel (867-979-4433; Niuraivik St; mains $30-47; 6:30-9am, noon-2pm & 6-9pm Mon-Fri, 7:30-10am, noon-2pm & 6-9pm Sat & Sun) Nunavut’s top restaurant has an extensive wine list and luscious local cuisine, like poached Arctic char ($44) and caribou steak in peppercorn sauce ($45). The homemade ice cream gets raves.


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DRINKING

In Iqaluit, almost all crimes, as well as the astronomical suicide rate, are linked to drinking. To combat this the town clamps down on alcohol. Beer and wine can be had with a meal at several restaurants, but there’s no liquor store and only one public bar (though the latter may soon change).

Grind & Brew (867-979-0606; Sinaa St; 7am-5:30pm or 6pm) Cappuccinos be damned: Iqaluit’s blue-collar, beachfront coffeeshop, just down the road from the museum, offers basic joe, a few pastries, and picnic tables from which to watch doings on the waterfront.

Fantasy Palace (867-979-3963; Bldg 1085E, Mivvik St; 7am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat, 11am-5pm Sun) A short stroll from the airport, this is a decent place to get a wrap, some java or, on those hot Arctic days, an ice cream cone ($2.25).

Storehouse Bar & Grill (867-979-2222; Astro Hill; 5pm-12:30am) As befits the only drinkery in town, this big, new, well-appointed watering hole is a little of everything: pub, pool hall, sports bar and disco. The food (pizza and burgers) are yummy.


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SHOPPING

Inuit prints, carvings and tapestries are world renowned and are widely available in Iqaluit. For deals on less-refined pieces, dine at the Frobisher Inn, where artists circulate through the dining room offering their works for sale.

Iqaluit Fine Arts Studio (867-979-5578; Bldg 1127, Mivvik St; 11am-5pm Mon-Sat) Right across from the airport terminal, this gallery has carvings of everything from $12 inukshuks (tacky) to $7000 shamans in soapstone (transcendent).

Malikkaat (867-979-6426; malikkaat@qiniq.com; Bldg 1083, Mivvik St; 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat) Tiny yet diverse, this giftshop sells traditional sealskin mitts and knit caps along with unorthodox carvings.

Rannva Design (867-979-3183; www.rannva.com; Bldg 3102, Helen Maksagak Dr; by appointment Mon-Fri, 2-5pm Sat & Sun) In her Apex studio, Rannva Simonsen sews together the ancient and the chic, generating hip fur garments.

Gallery By the Red Boat (867-979-2055; www.bytheredboat.ca; Bill Mackenzie Rd; vary or by appointment) In an old Hudson’s Bay building on Apex Beach, this spartan gallery showcases Saila Kipanek’s masterful, costly carvings.

For details on how to distinguish genuine art from fakes, Click here.


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GETTING THERE & AROUND

Most flights from outside the territory land here Click here and flights to the smaller Baffin communities depart from here. First Air serves all communities on the island, plus Resolute and Rankin Inlet. Kenn Borek Air operates services to fewer destinations but is often cheaper. Canadian North goes to Rankin.

Iqaluit is compact and thoroughly walkable. Even the airport is an easy stroll from downtown, about half a kilometer along Mivvik St. The city is also awash with cabs that charge $6 to anywhere. Expect to share: drivers often load to capacity before making drop-offs. Try Pai-Pa Taxi (867-979-5222).


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BAFFIN REGION

The Baffin region comprises Nunavut’s constellation of eastern and High Arctic islands. It reaches from the swampy, forested isles of James Bay to the jagged peaks of Ellesmere Island, 3000km north. Half of Nunavut’s population lives in this region, and visitors will find the best scenery, outdoor opportunities and tourism infrastructure here.


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KATANNILIK TERRITORIAL PARK

One of the finest parks in Nunavut is just a few dozen kilometers – by foot, flight or snowmobile – from Iqaluit. Katannilik means вЂ˜place of waterfalls,’ and comprises two main features: the Soper River and the Itijjagiaq Trail.

A Canadian Heritage waterway, the aquamarine Soper River splashes 50 navigable kilometers through a deep, fertile valley, past cascades, caribou, gemstone deposits and dwarf-willow forest to the community of Kimmirut (population 411). Paddlers usually spend three days to a week floating and exploring.

Hikers and skiers can opt for the Itijjagiaq Trail, a traditional 120km route over the tablelands of the Meta Incognita Peninsula and through the Soper valley. The hike usually takes 10 or 12 days. The trailhead is on Frobisher Bay, about 10km west of Iqaluit. For more details, contact Parks Nunavut (867-975-7700; www.nunavutparks.com).

Most paddlers charter a plane from Iqaluit to the riverside airstrip at Mt Joy, float from the put-in to Kimmirut, and then fly back to Iqaluit. Kenn Borek Air charges about $1300 from Iqaluit to Mt Joy and can carry approximately 1100kg of people and gear. For hikers, you can hire an Iqaluit outfitter to take you to the trailhead by boat; ask for names at the Unikkaarvik Visitors Centre (867-979-4636; Sinaa St; 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 1-4pm Sat & Sun) in Iqaluit.

First Air flies from Kimmirut to Iqaluit four times weekly ($178 one way).


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PANGNIRTUNG

Among Nunavut’s outlying communities, Pangnirtung, or вЂ˜Pang’ (population 1325), is the best destination, with art and outdoor opportunities galore. Located 40km south of the Arctic Circle, Pang hugs a stunning fjord and is the gateway to Auyuittuq National Park.

Information



Angmarlik Interpretive Centre (867-473-8737; oarnaqaq1@gov.nu.ca; 8:30am-8pm Mon-Fri, 10:30am-8pm Sat, 11:30am-8pm Sun) Has displays on Inuit and whaling history, a massive whale skull and information on local guides and outfitters.

Parks Canada (867-473-2500; www.parkscanada.gc.ca; 8:30am-noon & 1-5pm Jul & Aug, 8:30am-noon & 1-5pm Mon-Fri Sep-Jun) Next door to the interpretive center.

Qimiruvik Library (867-473-8678; 4-8pm Mon-Fri; ) In the Angmarlik Centre, has free internet.



Sights & Activities

The town is famous for tapestries, prints and woven hats, all available at the Uqqurmiut Centre for Arts & Crafts (867-473-8870; www.uqqurmiut.com; 9am-noon & 1-5pm Mon-Fri), opposite the interpretive center. Artists in the printshop and weaving studio often show off their techniques and wares; ask first before snapping photos.

Pang supposedly has two hiking paths, detailed on a map available at the interpretive center. One ill-defined trail follows the Duval River’s north side and another departs from the campground on the river’s south side, hugs the bank until reaching a waterfall and then wanders off overland.

About 50km south of town is Kekerten Historic Park, an old whaling station on an island. A trail leads past the remains of 19th-century houses, tools and graves. A boat tour here (around $180 per person for a minimum of four people) is a full-day trip. Outfitters can also take you wildlife-watching or fishing. For any of these, Joavee of Alivaktuk Outfitting Services (867-473-8721; jalivaktuk@nv.sympatico.ca) is highly recommended.

Sleeping & Eating

Of all the small towns in Nunavut, you’d think Pangnirtung would have decent lodging, but alas, options are actually rather limited.

Auyuittuq Lodge (867-473-8955; r per person $150) Pang’s only hotel is just down the street from the interpretive center, and has rudimentary rooms, shared bathrooms, neglectful service and noxious food.

Other lodging options include a campground above town beside the river (watch out for theft and for howling windstorms, which turn tents to ribbons) and homestays (per person $80, incl meals $120), which let you bunk with a local Inuit family; contact the interpretive center for details.

Wise souls self-cater from Northern Store (867-473-8935; 10am-6pm Mon-Sat, noon-5pm Sun) just down the road from the hotel.

Getting There & Away

From Iqaluit, there are daily flights to Pang run by First Air ($385 return) and Kenn Borek Air ($366 return).


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AUYUITTUQ NATIONAL PARK

Among the globe’s most flabbergasting places, Auyuittuq (ah-you-ee-tuk) means вЂ˜the land that never melts.’ Appropriately, there are plenty of glaciers in this 19,500-sq-km park, plus jagged peaks, vertiginous cliffs and deep valleys. Hikers trek along the 97km Akshayuk Pass (crossing the Arctic Circle) between late June and early September, when it’s snow-free. Nearby, climbers scale Mt Thor (1500m), the earth’s highest sheer cliff. Camp wherever you can find a safe, wind-proof, ecologically appropriate spot. Nine emergency shelters dot the pass.

Parks Canada (867-473-2500; www.parkscanada.gc.ca; 8:30am-noon & 1-5pm Jul & Aug, 8:30am-noon & 1-5pm Mon-Fri Sep-Jun) is in Pangnirtung, next to the Angmarlik Interpretive Centre (left). You must register here and pay the park entry fee (bizarrely set at $24.76 per night, up to $148).

The south end of the pass is 30km from Pangnirtung. In summer you can hike there in two days, or, more commonly, have an outfitter take you by boat (about $110, two-person minimum). For about $175 per person, through-hikers can arrange to be picked up at the other end by an outfitter from Qikiqtarjuaq, which is served by First Air and Kenn Borek Air.

While wondrous, Auyuittuq is also brutal, isolated and sometimes polar bear–ridden. Only wilderness veterans should conduct self-guided treks here; other folks can sign on with the park’s only licensed tour company, Black Feather (888-849-7668; www.blackfeather.com), which offers 10-, 14- and 16-day hikes, ranging from $2900 to $3400.



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DON’T MISS



Marble Island – haunt the Arctic’s eeriest isle Click here

Beechey Island – see John Franklin’s final home Click here

Kekerten Island – walk where whalers worked (left)

Qaummaarviit Island – tiptoe among Thule sites Click here





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CAPE DORSET

Cape Dorset (population 1236), on the rocky shore of Baffin Island’s Foxe Peninsula, is the epicenter of Inuit art. A half-century ago the residents here pioneered modern arctic carving and printmaking, marketing it to the world with remarkable success.

The Mallikjuaq Park Visitor Centre (867-897-8996) has artifacts portraying the history of Cape Dorset and the Mallikjuaq Islands, and can help arrange a visit to the park (below).

Sights & Activities

Though many Inuit communities now generate world-class artworks, Cape Dorset’s remain the most revered. Just around the corner from the hotel, the West Baffin Eskimo Cooperative (867-897-8944; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri) has a fine gallery plus an intriguing studio where you can watch artists work. (In summer, though, the place is pretty empty and sometimes closed, so call ahead.) The Kingnait Inn also sells sculptures, and you can often find artists carving outside their homes.

You can hike to Mallikjuaq Historic Park in about 45 minutes, but only at low tide. Otherwise, hire an outfitter to take you there by boat. The park features ruins of thousand-year-old pre-Inuit stone houses, hiking trails, wildlife and tundra flowers. Ask at the visitor center or the Kingnait Inn about other hiking routes near town.

Huit Huit Tours (867-897-8806; www.capedorsettours.com) offers multiday dogsled adventures in winter and summertime excursions focusing on wildlife and Inuit culture.

Sleeping & Eating

Kingnait Inn (867-897-8863; fax 867-897-8180; s/d $200/325, incl meals $260/$385) Just around the bend from the Eskimo Cooperative is Cape Dorset’s local hotel, which offers meals and spartan rooms. You may have to share a room if the place fills up.

Beach House (867-897-8806; www.capedorsettours.com; per person $230) This waterfront guest house has two bedrooms and a kitchen for preparing meals.

Getting There & Away

Each weekday, First Air flies here from Iqaluit ($568 return); six days per week Kenn Borek ($538 return) makes the same trip.


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POND INLET

On Baffin Island’s north coast, Pond Inlet (population 1315) is in Tununiq, вЂ˜the place facing away from the sun.’ Perhaps for that reason, locals seem more insular and unfriendly than in other Nunavut towns. Non-Inuit originally arrived here for whaling and trading opportunities; now they come to kayak, hunt and gaze slack-jawed at the mountainscape. Make arrangements with outfitters before arriving; this is not a place to wing it.

Information

Nattinnak Centre (867-899-8225; fax 867-899-8175; 10am-noon & 1-5pm Tue, 1-5pm & 7-9pm Wed, 10am-noon & 1-5pm Thu & Fri, 2-4pm Sun) has information on area activities and outfitters, plus a tiny giftshop and a fine little mini-museum with info, maps and displays on wildlife and local culture. Check out the life-size dioramas and the very cool fish-skin baskets.

Activities

For a short hike, head a few kilometers out of town to Salmon Creek and the remains of an old Inuit village. The more ambitious trek is to Mt Herodier (765m), 15km east of town. Along the coast, there’s fishing for Arctic char in July and August.

Polar Sea Adventures (867-899-8870; www.polarseaadventures.com) conducts paddling expeditions and rents kayaks and paddling gear ($90/560 per day/week). It and other outfitters guide whale-watching expeditions and late-spring wildlife-viewing adventures to the floe edge, the biologically rich area where the sea ice meets the open water. Durations and costs vary; expect to pay up to $4000 for a week at the floe edge.

Near Pond Inlet is the new Sirmilik National Park, strewn with spires, glaciers and hoodoos, and providing breeding grounds for countless seabirds. Experiencing Sirmilik on your own is a challenge, so most people go on package tours. Parks Canada (867-899-8092; sirmilik.info@pc.gc.ca; 1-5pm Mon-Fri) has a list of outfitters and is where you must register and pay the entrance fee ($24.76 per night, up to $148).

Sleeping & Eating

Tamaarvik Park (tent sites free) Camping is available here, located 4km south of town via the Water Lake Rd.

Black Point Lodge (867-899-8008; www.blackpointlodge.ca; s/d $199/348, incl meals $253/456; wi-fi) By far the nicest hotel in town, this four-room lodge has surprising touches for an Arctic inn, like floor-to-ceiling windows that overlook the ocean and the peaks of Sirmilik National Park. In summer, whales can sometimes be seen swimming just offshore.

Getting There & Away

First Air flies to/from Iqaluit almost daily ($1409 return), and twice per week Kenn Borek Air serves Resolute ($792 return).


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RESOLUTE

The upside of living in Resolute (population 229), on Cornwallis Island, is you don’t have to mow your lawn. The downside is everything else. A clutch of minuscule homes in a wind-lashed gravel desert, Canada’s worst-climate community was founded when the feds lured the Inuit here to shore up national sovereignty. Most visitors are just passing through to get to Quttinirpaaq National Park, the North Pole, or the only more-northerly community in Canada, scenic Grise Fiord.

If you have time, try local hiking or fly to the national historic site, Beechey Island, about 80km east; charter flights for around 10 people cost at least $2100. This desolate place was where the ill-fated Franklin expedition wintered in 1845–46 before vanishing forever. Traces of the 128 men and their unsuccessful rescuers remain. Ask at Resolute’s hotels for information on tours and outfitters.

Given the likelihood of being вЂ˜weathered in’ at Resolute for days, it’s fortuitous there are two great hotels. Qausuittuq Inns North (867-252-3900; www.resolutebay.com; s/d $195/330, incl meals $250/430) is a lodge with almost embarrassingly doting service, plus good home cooking. South Camp Inn (867-252-3737; www.southcampinn.com; s/d $265/530; ), Resolute’s nerve centre, is labyrinthine, well appointed and run by Aziz Kheraj, a Tanzanian who, improbably, is the High Arctic’s kingpin. Surprisingly good meals are included in the room price.

First Air flies to/from Iqaluit four times weekly ($2028 return), while Kenn Borek Air serves small High Arctic towns and does charters.


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QUTTINIRPAAQ NATIONAL PARK

If you have a fortune to squander, a fun way would be to visit Canada’s second-biggest park, way up on northern Ellesmere Island. A chartered plane from Resolute costs $23,500 (one way) for about six people. If you’d like a pick-up, you can double that price.



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LOCAL VOICE

Michael Kusugak, children’s book author, Rankin Inlet, Nunavut



One of Canada’s best-selling children’s authors, Michael Kusugak was born in a sod hut in Nunavut’s Kivalliq region and grew up enraptured by his grandmother’s traditional Inuit tales. Kusugak’s latest book, The Curse of the Shaman, was published in 2006 by Harper Collins.



Since you were 12, you’ve lived here in Rankin Inlet. How come? Well, you don’t have to go very far to get out of town [laughs]. I like to go hunting and fishing.



Do you have a favorite spot? There’s a place called Meliadine Lake (opposite). That’s a big lake just to the north of us, and it’s an absolutely wonderful place to fish. There are trails that go out there, so it’s not that hard to get there. It’s just so nice.



Nice? The Kivalliq region has a stereotype of being a wasteland. Oh no, in summer it’s absolutely amazing. We get thousands of geese – snow geese and Canada geese. And you can hear the sandhill cranes from miles away, with that beautiful call: krrrr, krrrr. And the ground, which everybody imagines to be a moonscape, is berries and grasses and all multicolored. God had it right when he made this place.



Does living here help you to write? I write from firsthand experience. This time of year, the geese have been eating all these blueberries and their droppings are blue. You don’t get those details unless you’re here. You can find wolf tracks in the snow and imagine what it’s like to be a wolf, wandering around. I’m always taking notes, and walking around with cameras, and making sketches. When you can feel nature, and hear it and smell it, it’s just fantastic. For my kind of writing, it’s paradise.





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* * *



WORTH THE TRIP: THELON RIVER

Among the big Barrenland rivers in Nunavut’s Kivalliq region, the most notable – and floatable – is the legendary Thelon. A Canadian Heritage river, the waterway wends some 1000km through utterly wild country, starting in the Northwest Territories just east of Great Slave Lake and emptying into saltwater near the Nunavut community of Baker Lake. Much of its length is protected by the Thelon Wildlife Sanctuary, and there’s talk of guarding its headwaters with a national park. Caribou, grizzlies, wolves, musk ox and gyrfalcon abound here, as do – weirdly – spruce trees, springing up far north of the normal treeline. Though Inuit seldom travel these waters today, their ancient campsites flank the riverbanks.



In any given summer – we’re talking mid-July to mid-August – a hundred or so people paddle the Thelon. If you’re keen to be among them, you’ll need to plan carefully. Canoeing the river doesn’t require remarkable paddling skills, but it does demand wilderness savvy. Floating the entirety would take many weeks; most people opt to paddle just a portion and charter a plane to drop them off and pick them up. A simpler option is to sign on with an outfitter, such as Canoe Arctic (867-872-2308; www.canoearctic.com) or others listed in the annual travel planner from Nunavut Tourism (867-979-6551, 866-686-2888; www.nunavuttourism.com).





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Highlights include Cape Columbia, the continent’s northernmost point, Mt Barbeau, which at 2616m is the highest peak in eastern North America, and Lake Hazen Basin, a thermal oasis where animals, due to their unfamiliarity with humans, appear strangely tame. For park information, contact Parks Canada (867-975-4673; nunavut.info@pc.gc.ca).


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KIVALLIQ REGION

The Kivalliq region takes in the Hudson Bay coast and the Barrenlands to the west. This is a flat, windswept area, thick with caribou and waterfowl, and cut through by wild rivers such as the Back, Kazan and Thelon. Nunavut’s newest national park, Ukkusiksalik, is here, with bears, whales and thus far, almost zero infrastructure or visitorship.


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RANKIN INLET

Muddy, dusty, littered and busy, Rankin was founded in 1955 as a mining center and is now the Kivalliq’s largest community (population 2358) and the regional government and transport center. From here you can go fishing in the bay or in the many rivers and lakes.

Information

The Rankin Inlet Visitors Centre (867-645-3838; fax 867-645-3904; 8:30am-7pm Mon-Fri), located at the airport, has perfunctory information and historical displays and even more perfunctory help.

Activities

Rankin’s famed Inukshuk (stone cairn of human form) is probably the most-photographed in Nunavut. It lords over the community like a giant turned to stone. That and the sometimes-bustling waterfront are what pass for in-town sights in Rankin Inlet.

The shopping’s decent, though: Matchbox Gallery (867-645-2674; www.matchboxgallery.com; vary) is a small space famed for having pioneered Inuit ceramic art (on sale for serious bucks), while Ivalu (867-645-3400; 10am-5pm Mon-Fri) is more of a giftshop, with everything from frozen musk ox sirloin tips to $300 sealskin mitts.

Ijiraliq Territorial Park, 10km from town, is popular for hiking and berry-picking. Near the Meliadine River’s mouth are archeological sites where the Dorset people, who preceded the Inuit, used to live.

In Hudson Bay, 50km east of Rankin, is Marble Island, a graveyard for James Knight and his crew, who sought the Northwest Passage in the 18th century. Some wrecks of 19th-century whaling ships are there too. Ask at the visitor center or hotel to learn if anyone’s offering tours there.

Sleeping & Eating

Nanuq Lodge (867-645-2650; www.nanuqlodge.com; s/d $150/200; ) This big, friendly, sunny bed-and-breakfast is the best place to stay in the region. It rents kayaks, loans out bicycles and happily arranges tours, including dogsled rides.



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IS POSSESSION NINE-TENTHS OF THE THAW?

The chilly Arctic is fast becoming a geopolitical hot zone, smoldering with disputes over who owns what.



In Canada, the main flashpoint is the Northwest Passage, which weaves tortuously through Nunavut’s polar archipelago. For centuries this ice-choked route rebuffed ships, but now, with global temperatures rising, it’s predicted to become dependably navigable within a generation.



The USA is tantalized by this prospect. They deem the passage an international waterway and have been known to cruise icebreakers through it – which sends Canada into apoplexies. Ottawa insists the passage is Canada’s and fears shipwrecks, oil spills and the defense implications posed by ships skirting the Arctic coast. But Canada has little capacity to monitor or defend the passage. There’s been talk of building a polar military post in Resolute Bay and of deploying ice-strengthened naval vessels to the North, but for now Ottawa simply pays Inuit вЂ˜rangers’ – armed with WWII-era rifles – to keep an eye on the 2000-plus-km waterway.





* * *



Siniktarvik Hotel (867-645-2807; www.siniktarvik.ca; s/d $195/250; wi-fi) A rambling, aluminium-clad hotel on Rankin’s main street, it’s the nexus of much of the town’s activity and is passable by polar standards. Meals are about $60 per day.

Sugar Rush Café (867-645-3373; sandwiches $6-9) This may be earth’s only diner with both rock ’n’ roll kitsch and caribou jerky strips ($2.50).

Getting There & Away

Canadian North and First Air operate services to/from Yellowknife and Iqaluit, and First Air, Calm Air and Kivalliq Air run flights to Winnipeg. Calm Air and Kivalliq Air provide services to the region’s smaller communities.


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KITIKMEOT REGION

The Kitikmeot is Nunavut’s least-populated and probably least-visited region, occupying the mainland’s arctic coast and the islands north of there. Between them runs the fabled – and usually frozen – Northwest Passage.

CAMBRIDGE BAY

Say вЂ˜Cambridge Bay’ and even Nunavut residents shiver. This wind-wracked settlement (population 1477) on southeast Victoria Island is the regional administrative and transport center.

Explorers seeking the Northwest Passage often took shelter here; you can see what remains of Roald Amundsen’s schooner Maud in the harbor. Ovayok Territorial Park, accessible over a rough road or via a half-day hike (15km), is a prime place to see musk ox and offers good views from Mt Pelly (200m). It has interpretive signage, walking trails and camping spots. South across the passage is Queen Maud Bird Sanctuary, the world’s largest migratory bird refuge.

Arctic Coast Visitors Centre (867-983-2842; fax 867-983-2302; 1 Omingmak St; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri) organizes tours, has displays about exploration, rents bicycles and offers showers. Arctic Island Lodge (867-983-2345; www.cambridgebayhotel.com; s/d $200/300) is swanky by Nunavut standards. Meals cost an extra $30 to $60 per day.

Canadian North and First Air fly to/from Yellowknife for about $1100 return. First Air flies from Cambridge Bay to the Kitikmeot’s other communities, while Kenn Borek Air goes north to Resolute.




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Directory



Contents

Accommodations

Activities

Business Hours

Children

Climate Charts

Customs

Dangers & Annoyances

Discount Cards

Embassies & Consulates

Festivals & Events

Food

Gay & Lesbian Travelers

Holidays

Insurance

Internet Access

Legal Matters

Maps

Money

Post

Shopping

Solo Travelers

Telephone

Time

Tourist Information

Travelers With Disabilities

Visas

Volunteering

Women Travelers

Work

ACCOMMODATIONS

In Canada, you’ll usually be choosing from a wide range of B&Bs, chain motels, hotels and hostels. Provincial tourist offices (Click here) publish comprehensive directories of accommodations and some take bookings online.

In this book we list options in all price categories, and they’re arranged from least to most expensive. The budget category comprises campgrounds, hostels and simple hotels and B&Bs where you’ll likely share a bathroom. Rates rarely exceed $80 for a double.

Midrange accommodations, such as most B&Bs, inns (auberges in French), motels and some hotels, generally offer the best value for money. Expect to pay between $80 and $160 for a comfortable, decent-sized double with a private bathroom and TV.



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PRACTICALITIES



Electrical supply is 110V AC, 50/60Hz.

The most widely read newspaper is the Toronto-based Globe and Mail. Other principal dailies are the MontrГ©al Gazette, Ottawa Citizen, Toronto Star and Vancouver Sun.

Maclean’s is Canada’s weekly news magazine.

The Canadian Broadcasting Corporation (CBC) is the dominant nationwide network for both radio and TV. The Canadian Television Network (CTN) is the major competition.

The NTSC system (not compatible with PAL or Secam) is used for videos.

Canada officially uses the metric system, but imperial measurements are used for many day-to-day purposes. To convert between the two systems, see the chart on the inside front cover.





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Top-end accommodations (more than $160 per double) offer an international standard of amenities, including fitness and business centers and other upmarket facilities.

Most properties have rooms set aside for nonsmokers, and some smaller properties, especially B&Bs, ban smoking altogether. In this book, we have used the nonsmoking icon () to mean that all rooms within a property are nonsmoking. Air-conditioning is not a standard amenity at most budget and midrange places. If you want it, be sure to ask about it when you book.

Prices listed in this book are for peak-season travel (usually summer, from late May to early September) and, unless stated otherwise, do not include taxes (which can be up to 17%). If breakfast is included and/or a bathroom is shared, that information is included in our listing.

It’s best to book ahead during summer peak season, during ski season at winter resorts, and during holidays Click here and major events Click here, as rooms can be scarce. In winter, prices can plummet by as much as 50%. Membership in the American Automobile Association (AAA) or an associated automobile association, American Association of Retired Persons (AARP) or other organizations also yields modest savings (usually 10%).

Online agencies such as www.orbitz.com, www.expedia.com, www.travelocity.com and www.hotels.com may fetch better rates than booking directly with a hotel. Tripadvisor (www.tripadvisor.com) is a handy resource that features reader and published reviews and simultaneously searches the above-mentioned agencies for rates. Travelaxe (www.travelaxe.com) adds in filters to help you narrow down your search (eg distance, price, comfort level); it requires a free software download for its вЂ˜pro’ version. Also check hotel websites listed throughout this book for special online rates.

B&Bs

B&Bs (gîtes in French) are essentially converted private homes whose owners live on site. People who like privacy may find B&Bs too intimate, as walls are rarely soundproof and it’s usual to mingle with your hosts and other guests.

Standards vary widely, sometimes even within a single B&B. The cheapest rooms tend to be small with few amenities and a shared bathroom. Nicer ones have added features such as a balcony, a fireplace and an en suite bathroom. Breakfast is always included in the rates.

Not all B&Bs accept children. Minimum stays (usually two nights) are common, and many B&Bs are only open seasonally. Bed & Breakfast Online (www.bbcanada.com) is an online booking agency representing properties nationwide.

Camping

Canada is filled with campgrounds – some federal or provincial, others privately owned. The official camping season runs from May to September, but exact dates vary by location.

Facilities vary widely. Backcountry sites offer little more than pit toilets and fire rings, and have no potable water. Unserviced (tent) campgrounds come with access to drinking water and a washroom with toilets and sometimes showers. The best-equipped sites feature flush toilets and hot showers, and water, electrical and sewer hookups for recreational vehicles (RVs). Private campgrounds sometimes cater only to trailers (caravans) and RVs, and may feature convenience stores, playgrounds and swimming pools. It is a good idea to phone ahead to make sure the size of sites and the services provided at a particular campground are suitable for your vehicle.



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BOOK ACCOMMODATIONS ONLINE

For more reviews and recommendations by Lonely Planet authors about accommodations, check out the online booking service at lonelyplanet.com/hotels. You’ll find the true, insider lowdown on the best places to stay. Reviews are thorough and independent. Best of all, you can book online.





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Most government-run sites are available on a first-come first-served basis and fill up quickly, especially in July and August. Several national parks participate in Parks Canada’s camping reservation program (877-737-3783; www.pccamping.ca; reservation fees $10.90), which is a convenient way to make sure you get a spot. Provincial park reservation information is provided in destination chapters throughout this book.

Nightly camping fees in national and provincial parks range from $12 to $26 for tents up to $36 for full hookup sites; fire permits often cost a few dollars extra. Backcountry camping costs about $10 per night. Private campgrounds tend to be a bit pricier.

Some campgrounds remain open for maintenance year-round and may let you camp at a reduced rate in the off-season. This can be great in late autumn or early spring when there’s hardly a soul tramping about. Winter camping, though, is only for the hardy.

Homestays

How do you feel about staying on the couch of a perfect stranger? If it’s not a problem, consider joining an organization that arranges homestays. The groups following charge no fees to become a member, and the stay itself is also free.



Couch Surfing (www.couchsurfing.com)

Hospitality Club (www.hospitalityclub.org)



Hostels

Canada has independent hostels as well as those affiliated with Hostelling International (HI). All have dorms ($26 per person on average), which can sleep from two to 10 people, and many have private rooms (from $35/45 per single/double) for couples and families. Rooms in HI hostels are gender segregated and alcohol and smoking are prohibited; nonmembers pay a surcharge of about $4 per night.



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THE CHAIN GANG

Budget



Days Inn (800-329-7466; www.daysinn.com)

Econo Lodge (877-424-6423; www.econolodge.com)

Super 8 (800-800-8000; www.super8.com)



Midrange



Best Western (800-780-7234; www.bestwestern.com)

Clarion Hotel (877-424-6423; www.clarionhotel.com)

Comfort Inn (877-424-6423; www.comfortinn.com)

Fairfield Inn (800-228-2800; www.fairfieldinn.com)

Hampton Inn (800-426-7866; www.hamptoninn.com)

Holiday Inn (888-465-4329; www.holidayinn.com)

Howard Johnson (800-446-4656; www.hojo.com)

Quality Inn & Suites (877-424-6423; www.qualityinn.com)

Travelodge/Thriftlodge (800-578-7878; www.travelodge.com)



Top End



Delta (877-814-7706; www.deltahotels.com)

Fairmont (800-257-7544; www.fairmont.com)

Hilton (800-445-8667; www.hilton.com)

Hyatt (888-591-1234; www.hyatt.com)

Marriott (888-236-2427; www.marriott.com)

Radisson (888-201-1718; www.radisson.com)

Ramada (800-272-6232; www.ramada.com)

Sheraton (800-325-3535; www.sheraton.com)

Westin (800-937-8461; www.westin.com)





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Bathrooms are usually shared, and facilities include a kitchen, lockers, internet access, laundry room and common TV room. Most hostels, especially those in big cities, are open 24 hours. If not, ask if you can make special arrangements if you’re arriving late.

For additional information and online reservations:



Backpackers Hostels Canada (www.backpackers.ca) Independent hostels.

Hostelling International Canada (www.hihostels.ca)

Hostels.com (www.hostels.com) Includes independent and HI hostels.



Hotels & Motels

Most hotels are part of international chains, and the newer ones are designed for either the luxury market or businesspeople. Rooms have cable TV and internet access; many also have swimming pools and fitness and business centers. Rooms with two double or queen-sized beds sleep up to four people, although there is usually a small surcharge for the third and fourth person. Many places advertise that вЂ˜kids stay free’ but sometimes you have to pay extra for a crib or a rollaway (portable bed).

In Canada, like the USA (both lands of the automobile), motels are ubiquitous. They dot the highways and cluster in groups on the outskirts of towns and cities. Although most motel rooms won’t win any style awards, they’re usually clean and comfortable and offer good value for travelers. Many regional motels remain your typical вЂ˜mom and pop’ operations, but plenty of North American chains have also opened up around the region (see the boxed text, left).

University Accommodations

In the lecture-free summer months, some universities and colleges rent beds in their student dormitories to travelers of all ages. Most rooms are quite basic, but with rates ranging from $25 to $40 a night, often including breakfast, you know you’re not getting the Ritz. Students usually qualify for small discounts.


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ACTIVITIES

Got the urge to don the fleece and go snowboarding, sea kayaking, mountain biking or otherwise get the blood flowing? Canada has it all, with outfitters and tour operators eager to set you up for action. In fact, there’s so much to do here that we’ve devoted an entire chapter to it; Click here for a detailed look at the variety of activities Canada has to offer.


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BUSINESS HOURS

Standard business hours, including for most government offices, are 9am to 5pm Monday to Friday. Bank hours vary but are generally 10am to 5pm Monday to Friday and sometimes 9am to noon on Saturday. Post offices are generally open from 9am to 5pm on weekdays, but outlets in retail stores (eg pharmacies, grocery stores) may stay open later and on weekends.

Most restaurants serve lunch between 11:30am and 2:30pm Monday to Friday and dinner from 5pm to 9:30pm daily, later on weekends. Some are closed on Monday. A few serve breakfast from 8am to 11am on weekdays and brunch from 8am to 1pm on Saturday and/or Sunday.

Pubs are generally open from 11am to 2am daily, although exact times vary by province. Bars welcome patrons from around 5pm until 2am nightly, while music and dance clubs in cities open their doors at 9pm, though often Wednesday through Saturday only. Most close at 2am, but if they’re busy they may stay open until 3am or 4am.

Shops are generally open from 10am to 6pm Monday to Saturday. In shopping malls and districts, stores often stay open until 8pm or 9pm on Thursday and Friday evenings. Many shops also open on Sunday from noon to 5pm, although this is less prevalent on Prince Edward Island and in New Brunswick and Nova Scotia. Supermarkets stay open from 9am to 8pm throughout the week, with some open 24 hours.


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CHILDREN

Traveling around Canada with the tots can be child’s play, especially if you don’t over-pack the schedule and do involve the little ones in day-to-day trip planning. Lonely Planet’s Travel with Children offers a wealth of tips and tricks. The website Travel With Your Kids (www.travelwithyourkids.com) is another good, general resource.

Practicalities

Children who are traveling to Canada without both parents need authorization from the nonaccompanying parent (Click here).

Once in Canada, kids receive a wide range of discounts on attraction admissions, transportation fares and hotel stays. Usually kids aged six to 17 are half price; younger children are free. Ask about вЂ˜family’ admissions if your posse consists of two adults and two or more kids.

Hotels and motels commonly have rooms with two double beds or a double and a sofa bed, which are ideal for families. Even those that don’t can bring in rollaways or cots, usually for a small extra charge. Some properties offer вЂ˜kids stay free’ promotions, although this may apply only if the children don’t need their own bedding. B&Bs are not so gracious, and may even refuse to accept pint-sized patrons. Ask when booking.

Baby food, infant formula, milk (including soy), disposable diapers (nappies) and the like are widely available in drugstores and supermarkets. Breastfeeding in public is legal in all communities, and tolerated in most, although most women are discreet about it. If someone complains, point out politely but firmly that you’re not doing anything illegal.

Most facilities can accommodate a child’s needs. You’ll find that nearly all restaurants have high chairs, and if they don’t have a specific children’s menu, most can make a kid-tailored meal. Click here for more information on dining out with kids. Public toilets in airports, stores, malls and cinemas usually have diaper-changing tables.

In all vehicles, children under 18kg must be restrained in a child-booster seat, while infants need a rear-facing infant safety seat. Most car rental firms rent these for about $8 per day, but it is essential that you book them in advance.

Sights & Activities

It’s easy to keep kids entertained no matter where you travel in Canada. The great outdoors yields endless possibilities. A day spent wildlife-watching, swimming, walking, horseback riding, canoeing or otherwise engaging in physical activity is sure to leave the little ones ready for sleep by the day’s end. Many national parks offer nature walks or other programs specially geared to children. Many outfitters also offer dedicated kids’ tours.

Even in the cities there’s usually no shortage of entertaining options for children. Take ’em to parks, playgrounds, public swimming pools, ice-skating rinks, zoos or kid-friendly museums. For specific suggestions, see the вЂ˜For Children’ sections throughout the regional chapters of this book. In addition, most tourist offices can lead you to resources for children’s programs, childcare facilities and pediatricians in their area.


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CLIMATE CHARTS

For general advice on climate and when to travel in Canada, Click here. Each regional chapter also has its own Land & Climate section with useful details. The climate charts Click here provide a snapshot of Canada’s weather patterns.





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CUSTOMS

Canadian customs allows each person over 18 (entering Alberta, Manitoba and QuГ©bec) or 19 (everywhere else) to import duty-free either 1.5L of wine, 1.14L of liquor or 24 355mL beers, as well as 200 cigarettes, 50 cigars, 200g of tobacco and 200 tobacco sticks. You can also bring in gifts valued at up to $60 in total. If you spend at least 48 hours outside Canada, you again become eligible for these allowances.

Personal effects – including camping gear, sports equipment, cameras and laptop computers – can be brought into Canada without much trouble. Declaring these to customs as you cross the border might save you some hassle when you leave, especially if you’ll be crossing the US–Canadian border multiple times.

Importing or exporting money up to a value of $10,000 is fine, but larger amounts must be reported to customs.

Under most circumstances, it is illegal to bring firearms, pepper spray or mace into Canada, or to import fruit, vegetables and plants. Check with a Canadian consulate in your home country if you intend to travel with any of these. Don’t attempt to bring in illegal drugs, including marijuana, as sentences can be harsh.

If you’re traveling with a dog or cat, carry a signed and dated certificate from a veterinarian to prove that it has had a rabies shot in the past 36 months.

For more information, contact the Canada Border Services Agency (CBSA; 506-636-5064, 800-461-9999; www.cbsa.gc.ca).


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DANGERS & ANNOYANCES

Check the Health chapter Click here for possible health risks and Click here for road conditions and driving hazards.

Crime

Canada is overall a safe place to live and travel. Violent crime does occur, of course; Saskatchewan posts Canada’s highest rates, Québec posts its lowest. But all rates are much lower than in the USA. While smash-and-grab thefts are uncommon, it’s always wise to keep valuables out of view in your parked car, especially in the cities.

Insects

Blackflies generally pester from late May through June. Mosquitoes bother from early spring until early fall. Both can be a real nightmare. Ticks are an issue from March to June.

Generally, bug populations are greatest deep in the woods, near water and the further north you go. In clearings, along shorelines or anywhere there’s a breeze you’ll be fairly safe. Mosquitoes are at their peskiest around sundown. For campers, a tent with a zippered screen is essential. For additional information, Click here.

Other Wildlife

Animals are among Canada’s greatest assets, but they can also represent serious danger if you invade their turf. Feeding animals or getting too close is a bad, baaad idea. For grizzly and black bear avoidance tips, Click here. For polar bear tips, Click here. For general information on avoiding and treating animal bites, Click here.

Weather

On winter days, you’ll need to bundle up well. For information on avoiding and treating hypothermia, Click here.


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DISCOUNT CARDS

If you’re a student, never leave home without an International Student Identity Card (ISIC; www.isiccard.com), which entitles you to discounts on travel insurance and admission to museums and other sights. The International Youth Travel Card (IYTC), for those under 26 but not students, and the International Teacher Identity Card (ITIC), for full-time educators, offer similar savings. They are all issued by student unions, hostelling organizations and youth-oriented travel agencies.

Discounts are also commonly offered for seniors, children, families and people with disabilities. In these cases, however, no special cards are issued (you get the savings on site when you pay). Automobile association members (Click here) also receive various travel-related discounts.

If you plan on visiting nine or more national parks or historic sites, look into getting a National Parks of Canada Pass (www.pc.gc.ca/voyage-travel/carte-pass/index_e.asp; adult/child 6-16yr/senior /family $62.40/31.70/53.50/123.80).


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EMBASSIES & CONSULATES

All countries have their embassies in Ottawa and maintain consulates in such cities as MontrГ©al, Vancouver, Calgary and Toronto. Contact the relevant embassy to find out which consulate is closest to you.



Australia (613-236-0841; www.ahc-ottawa.org; Suite 710, 50 O’Connor St, Ottawa, ON K1P 6L2)

France (613-789-1795; www.ambafrance-ca.org; 42 Sussex Dr, Ottawa, ON K1M 2C9)

Germany (613-232-1101; www.ottawa.diplo.de; 1 Waverley St, Ottawa, ON K2P 0T8)

Ireland (613-233-6281; www.irishembassyottawa.com; 130 Albert St, Ottawa, ON K1P 5G4)

Italy (613-232-2401; www.ambottawa.esteri.it; 21st fl, 275 Slater St, Ottawa, ON K1P 5H9)

Japan (613-241-8541; www.ca.emb-japan.go.jp; 255 Sussex Dr, Ottawa, ON K1N 9E6)

Mexico (613-233-8988; www.embamexcan.com; Suite 1500, 45 O’Connor St, Ottawa, ON K1P 1A4)

Netherlands (613-237-5030; www.netherlandsembassy.ca; Suite 2020, 350 Albert St, Ottawa, ON K1R 1A4)

New Zealand (613-238-5991; www.nzembassy.com; Suite 727, 99 Bank St, Ottawa, ON K1P 6G3)

UK (613-237-2008; www.britishhighcommission.gov.uk; 80 Elgin St, Ottawa, ON K1P 5K7)

USA (613-238-5335; www.usembassycanada.gov; 490 Sussex Dr, Ottawa, ON K1N 1G8)




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FESTIVALS & EVENTS

Canada parties heartily in summertime, and in many cities the festivities go on right through winter. The following list is a sampling of shindigs. For festival highlights see Top Ten Bashes. Also see Holidays and the Festivals & Events sections in destination chapters.

JANUARY & FEBRUARY



FГЄte des Neiges MontrГ©al, QuГ©bec.

Northern Manitoba Trappers’ Festival

The Pas, Manitoba.

Winterlude Ottawa, Ontario.



MARCH-MAY



Canadian Tulip Festival Ottawa, Ontario.

Stratford Festival April through November, Stratford, Ontario.

TELUS World Ski & Snowboard Festival Whistler, British Columbia.



JUNE



Grand Prix of Canada MontrГ©al, QuГ©bec.

Pride Toronto Toronto, Ontario.

Toronto Downtown Jazz Festival Toronto, Ontario.

Vancouver International Jazz Festival Vancouver, British Columbia.



JULY



Atlantic Jazz Festival Halifax, Nova Scotia.

Calgary Folk Festival Calgary, Alberta.

Capital Ex Edmonton, Alberta.

Celebration of Light Vancouver, British Columbia.

Country Fest Dauphin, Manitoba.

Festival International de Jazz MontrГ©al, QuГ©bec.

Festival International du Blues

Mont-Tremblant, QuГ©bec.

Great Northern Arts Festival Inuvik,

Northwest Territories.

Shakespeare on the Saskatchewan

Saskatoon, Saskatchewan.

Summer Festival QuГ©bec City, QuГ©bec.

Winnipeg Folk Festival Winnipeg, Manitoba.

Winnipeg Fringe Festival Winnipeg, Manitoba.



AUGUST



Bakeapple Folk Festival Forteau, Labrador.

Basque Festival St-Pierre and Miquelon, Newfoundland.

Buffalo Days Regina, Saskatchewan.

Canadian National Exhibition Toronto, Ontario.

Edmonton Fringe Theatre Festival

Edmonton, Alberta.

Evolve Antigonish, Nova Scotia.

Halifax International Busker Festival Halifax, Nova Scotia.



SEPTEMBER



Harvest Jazz & Blues Festival Fredericton, New Brunswick.

Niagara Wine Festival Niagara Peninsula Wine Country, Ontario.

PEI International Shellfish Festival

Charlottetown, Prince Edward Island.

Toronto International Film Festival Toronto, Ontario.



OCTOBER-DECEMBER



Canadian Finals Rodeo Edmonton, Alberta.

Cornucopia Whistler, British Columbia.

International Festival of Authors Toronto, Ontario.

Oktoberfest Kitchener, Ontario.

Vancouver International Writers Festival Vancouver, British Columbia.




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FOOD

In this guide we’ve included eating options to match all tastes and travel budgets. Budget eateries include takeouts, delis, cafés, snack bars, markets and basic restaurants where you can fill up for less than $10 including taxes. At midrange establishments you get full menus, beer and wine lists and a bill that should average about $20 per person for an appetizer, main course and one drink, not including tax and tip. Top-end places are usually gourmet affairs with fussy service, creative and freshly prepared food and matching wine lists. Main courses alone can cost $25 or more. The best deals are usually set menus (called table d’hôte in Québec), which include three or four courses and coffee starting at around $25.

Most restaurants in urban Canada have nonsmoking sections (and in many cities they are required by law to do so) and an increasing number prohibit smoking altogether. Not all places have air-conditioning during the summer months. If air-conditioning is important to you, enquire ahead to avoid disappointment.

For the full rundown on cuisine, customs and even where to find cooking classes in Canada, see the Food & Drink chapter Click here.


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GAY & LESBIAN TRAVELERS

Canada is tolerant when it comes to gays and lesbians, though this outlook is more common in the big cities than in rural areas. Same-sex marriage is legal throughout the country (Canada is one of only five nations worldwide that permits this).

Montréal, Toronto and Vancouver are by far Canada’s gayest cities, each with a humming nightlife scene, publications and lots of associations and support groups. All have sizeable Pride celebrations, too, which attract big crowds. For more details, the boxed texts, Click here and Click here.

Attitudes remain more conservative in the northern regions. Throughout Nunavut, and to a lesser extent in the aboriginal communities of the Northwest Territories, there’s a strain of religious zealotry that includes retrogressive attitudes toward homosexuality. The Yukon, in contrast, is more like British Columbia, with a live-and-let-live west coast attitude.

The following are good resources for gay travel; they include Canadian information, though not all are exclusive to the region.



Damron (415-255-0404; www.damron.com) Publishes several travel guides, including Men’s Travel Guide, Women’s Traveller and Damron Accommodations; gay-friendly tour operators are listed on the website, too.

Gay Canada (www.gaycanada.com) Search by province or city for queer-friendly businesses and resources.

Gay Travel News (www.gaytravelnews.com) Website listing gay-friendly destinations and hotels.

Out Traveler (www.outtraveler.com) Gay travel magazine.

Purple Roofs (www.purpleroofs.com) Website listing queer accommodations, travel agencies and tours worldwide.

Queer Canada (www.queercanada.ca) A general resource.




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HOLIDAYS

Public Holidays

Canada observes 11 national public holidays and more at the provincial level. Banks, schools and government offices close on these days. For important festivals and major events, Click here.



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UNIQUELY CANADIAN CELEBRATIONS



National Flag Day (February 15) Commemorates the first time the maple-leaf flag was raised above Parliament Hill in Ottawa, at the stroke of noon on February 15, 1965.

Victoria Day (late May) This day was established in 1845 to observe the birthday of Queen Victoria and now celebrates the birthday of the British sovereign who’s still Canada’s titular head of state. Victoria Day marks the official beginning of the summer season (which ends with Labour Day on the first Monday of September). Some communities hold fireworks.

National Aboriginal Day (June 31)Created in 1996, it celebrates the contributions of Aboriginal peoples to Canada. Coinciding with the summer solstice, festivities are organized locally and may include traditional dancing, singing and drumming; storytelling; arts and crafts shows; canoe races; and lots more.

Canada Day (July 1) Known as Dominion Day until 1982, Canada Day was created in 1869 to commemorate the creation of Canada two years earlier. All over the country, people celebrate with barbecues, parades, concerts and fireworks.

Thanksgiving Day (mid-October) First celebrated in 1578 in what is now Newfoundland by explorer Martin Frobisher to give thanks for surviving his Atlantic crossing, Thanksgiving became an official Canadian holiday in 1872 to celebrate the recovery of the Prince of Wales from a long illness. These days, it’s essentially a harvest festival involving a special family dinner of roast turkey and pumpkin, very much as it is practiced in the US.





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NATIONAL HOLIDAYS



New Year’s Day January 1

Good Friday March or April

Easter March or April

Victoria Day Monday before May 25

Canada Day July 1; called Memorial Day in Newfoundland

Civic Holiday First Monday of August; also known as Natal Day

Labour Day First Monday of September

Thanksgiving Second Monday of October

Remembrance Day November 11

Christmas Day December 25

Boxing Day December 26



PROVINCIAL HOLIDAYS

Some provinces also observe local holidays, with Newfoundland leading the pack.



Family Day Third Monday of February in Alberta, Saskatchewan and Manitoba; known as Louis Riel Day in Manitoba

St Patrick’s Day Monday nearest March 17

St George’s Day Monday nearest April 23

National Day Monday nearest June 24 in Newfoundland; June 24 in QuГ©bec (aka St-Jean-Baptiste Day)

Orangemen’s Day Monday nearest July 12 in Newfoundland

Discovery Day Third Monday of August in Yukon Territory



School Holidays

Kids break for summer holidays in late June and don’t return to school until early September. University students get even more time off, usually from May to early or mid-September. Most people take their big annual vacation during these months.


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INSURANCE

No matter the length of your trip, make sure you have adequate travel insurance. At a minimum, you need coverage for medical emergencies and treatment, including hospital stays and an emergency flight home. Medical treatment for non-Canadians is exorbitant; simply visiting an emergency room will set you back a whopping $500, and that’s before any treatment or medication. For more information, Click here.

Also consider insurance for luggage theft or loss. If you already have a home-owners or renters policy, check what it will cover and only get supplemental insurance to protect against the rest. If you have prepaid a large portion of your vacation, trip cancellation insurance is worthwhile.

Worldwide coverage for travelers from more than 44 countries is available online at www.lonelyplanet.com/travel_services. Also check the following providers.



Insure.com (800-556-9393; www.insure.com)

Travelex (800-228-9792; www.travelex.com)

Travel Guard (800-826-4919; www.travelguard.com)



For information about vehicle insurance, refer to Click here.


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INTERNET ACCESS

It’s easy to find internet access in the region’s main cities, and you’ll be surprised at the access available in remote areas, thanks to the government’s Community Access Program (C@P; http://cap.ic.gc.ca/index.htm). Libraries, schools and community agencies in practically every town provide free high-speed internet terminals for public use, travelers included. The only downsides are that usage time is limited (usually 30 minutes), facilities have erratic hours and you may not be able to upload photos (it depends on the facility).

Internet cafés are limited to the main tourist areas, and access generally costs $3 to $8 per hour. If you’re traveling with your own laptop computer, you’ll find that many of the newer and recently renovated hotels and B&Bs let you plug in from your room, usually via a high-speed broadband connection. Properties that don’t offer in-room access often have an internet terminal for guest use in the lobby.

We have listed public C@P sites and internet cafГ©s in the regional Information sections throughout this book. Lodgings offering guest terminals with free internet access are identified with an internet icon (). If wi-fi access is available, this has too been identified in the accomodations reviews.

For more information on traveling with a laptop and the gadgets you might need, see www.teleadapt.com. For information on finding wireless hotspots in Canada, see www.wififreespot.com/can.html or www.hotspot-locations.com. To find internet cafГ©s beyond those listed in this book, check www.netcafes.com.

While on the road, it’s advisable to set up a trip-specific email address with a free, web-based provider such as Hotmail (www.hotmail.com) or Yahoo (www.yahoo.com). Be wary of doing banking and other personal transactions from public internet terminals, as keystroke-capturing software could be in place, as could other nonsecure features.

Click here for a list of websites about traveling in Canada.


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LEGAL MATTERS

Should you be arrested or charged with an offense, you have the right to keep your mouth shut and to hire any lawyer you wish (contact your embassy for a referral, if necessary). If you cannot afford one, ask to be represented by public counsel. There is a presumption of innocence.

If driving in Canada, you need to carry your driver’s license Click here and carefully obey road rules Click here. The highest permissible blood-alcohol limit is 0.08% and driving cars, motorcycles, boats and snowmobiles while drunk is a criminal offense. If you are caught, you may face stiff fines, license suspension and other nasty consequences. Consuming alcohol anywhere other than at a residence or licensed premises is also a no-no, which puts parks, beaches and the rest of the great outdoors off limits, at least officially.

When it comes to illegal drugs, the sensible thing to do is to avoid them entirely, as penalties may entail heavy fines, possible jail time and a criminal record. The only exception is the use of marijuana for medical purposes, which became legal in 2001. Meanwhile, the decriminalization of pot possession for personal use remains a subject of intense and ongoing debate among the general public and in parliament.

Abortion is legal.


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MAPS

Canadian companies Mapart (www.mapart.com) and Rand McNally (www.randmcnally.com) publish maps for Canada as a whole, as well as for its various regions and larger cities; they’re sold at bookstores and gas stations. Most tourist offices distribute free provincial road maps. If you are a member of the Canadian Automobile Association (CAA;) or one of its international affiliates, you can get CAA’s high-quality maps for free from any local office. For downloadable maps and driving directions, try Mapquest (www.mapquest.com), Yahoo (maps.yahoo.com) or Google (maps.google.ca).



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LEGAL AGE



Driving a car: 16

Smoking tobacco: 18

Homosexual consent (for males): 18

Consent for other sexual activity: 14

Voting in an election: 18

Drinking alcoholic beverages: 19 (18 in Alberta, Manitoba and QuГ©bec)





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For extended hikes or multiday backcountry treks, it’s a good idea to carry a topographic map. The best are the series of 1:50,000 scale maps published by the government’s Centre for Topographic Information (http://maps.nrcan.gc.ca). These are sold by around 900 map dealers around the country; check the website for vendors. You can also download and print maps from www.geobase.ca.


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MONEY

All prices quoted in this book are in Canadian dollars ($), unless stated otherwise.

Canadian coins come in 1Вў (penny), 5Вў (nickel), 10Вў (dime), 25Вў (quarter), $1 (loonie) and $2 (toonie or twoonie) denominations. The gold-colored loonie features the loon, a common Canadian water bird, while the two-toned toonie is decorated with a polar bear.

Paper currency comes in $5 (blue), $10 (purple), $20 (green) and $50 (red) denominations. The $100 (brown) and larger bills are less common, and are tough to change.

Thanks to an unstable world economy, wars and other factors, the Canadian dollar has seen fluctuations in recent years, bottoming out in January 2002 when one loonie was worth a mere US$0.62. By late 2007, it had rebounded and almost achieved parity with the US dollar; see Quick Reference on the inside front cover of this book for specifics. Good websites to check for the latest rates include www.xe.com and www.oanda.com.

When changing money, compare rates and fees. In the larger cities, currency exchange offices may offer better conditions than banks. Conditions are likely to be less favorable at counters in airports, train stations and tourist centers than in larger city centers. Some businesses near the US–Canadian border and in big cities accept payment in US dollars, with change given in Canadian dollars. Don’t expect the exchange rate to be in your favor.

For an overview of how much things cost in Canada, Click here.

ATMs

Many grocery and convenience stores, airports, and bus, train and ferry stations have ATMs. Most are linked to international networks, the most common being Cirrus, Plus, Star and Maestro.

Most ATMs also spit out cash if you use a major credit card. This method tends to be more expensive because, in addition to a service fee, you’ll be charged interest immediately (in other words, there’s no interest-free period as with purchases). For exact fees, check with your own bank or credit card company.

Visitors heading to Canada’s more remote regions (such as in Newfoundland) won’t find an abundance of ATMs, so it is wise to cash up beforehand.

Cash & Personal Checks

Most Canadians don’t carry large amounts of cash for everyday use, relying instead on credit and debit cards. Still, carrying some cash, say $100 or less, comes in handy when making small purchases. In some cases, cash is necessary to pay for rural B&Bs and shuttle vans; inquire in advance to avoid surprises. Shops and businesses rarely accept personal checks.

Credit Cards

Major credit cards such as MasterCard, Visa and American Express are widely accepted in Canada, except in remote, rural communities where cash is king. You’ll find it hard or impossible to rent a car, book a room or order tickets over the phone without having a piece of plastic. Note that some credit card companies charge a вЂ˜transaction fee’ (around 3% of whatever you purchased); check with your provider to avoid surprises.

Carry copies of your credit card numbers separately from the cards and immediately report lost or stolen cards.



American Express (866-296-5198; www.americanexpress.com)

MasterCard (800-307-7309; www.mastercard.com)

Visa (800-847-2911; www.visa.com)



Taxes & Refunds

Canada’s federal goods and services tax (GST), variously known as the вЂ˜gouge and screw’ or вЂ˜grab and steal’ tax, adds 5% to just about every transaction. To make matters worse, most provinces also charge a provincial sales tax (PST). New Brunswick, Nova Scotia and Newfoundland and Labrador have combined the GST and PST into a harmonized sales tax (HST) of 14%. Unless otherwise stated, taxes are not included in prices given.

Remember that sweet rebate program where you could get the taxes refunded on your short-term accommodations and non-consumable goods if you spent $200 or more in Canada? That rebate is gone – the government whacked it in 2007. But all is not entirely lost: if you’ve booked your accommodations in conjunction with a rental car, plane ticket or other service (ie if it all appears on the same bill from a вЂ˜tour operator’), you should be eligible to get 50% of the tax refunded from your accommodations. Fill out the GST/HST Refund Application for Tour Packages form available from the Canada Revenue Agency (902-432-5608, 800-668-4748; www.cra-arc.gc.ca/E/pbg/gf/gst115).

Tipping

In restaurants, leaving a 15% tip on the pretax bill is standard. Tipping is expected for bar service, too. For more on tipping in restaurants, Click here.

At hotels, tip bellhops about $1 to $2 per bag. Leaving a few dollars for the room cleaners is always a welcome gesture. Cab drivers, hairdressers and barbers also expect a tip, usually 10% to 15%.

Traveler’s Checks

Traveler’s checks are becoming more and more obsolete in the age of ATMs. Still, they may come in handy as a backup. Traveler’s checks issued in Canadian dollars are generally treated like cash by businesses. Traveler’s checks in most other currencies must be exchanged for Canadian dollars at a bank or foreign currency office. For lost or stolen checks call the issuer.



American Express (866-296-5198)

MasterCard (800-223-9920)

Visa (800-227-6811)




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POST

Canada’s national postal service, Canada Post /Postes Canada (416-979-8822, 866-607-6301; www.canadapost.ca), is neither quick nor cheap, but it is reliable. Stamps are available at post offices, drugstores, convenience stores and hotels.

Postcards or standard 1st-class airmail letters up to 30g cost 52Вў within Canada, 93Вў to the USA and $1.55 to all other countries. Travelers often find they have to pay high duties on items sent to them while in Canada, so beware. Poste restante mail can be held for collection at the local main post office or, in the case of big cities, a designated branch. It is kept for 15 days before being returned to the sender. There is no charge, but you need to bring a passport or other photo ID when collecting it. Call for the postal codes of specific post offices where general delivery mail is accepted.




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SHOPPING

Canada’s shops will lighten your wallet in short order. Much shopping these days is done in malls, with the West Edmonton Mall and its 800 stores clearly the mother of them all. More unusual and interesting items are typically found in smaller establishments and galleries.

Each province also has its own crafts council; most publish a guide to local wares and studios, available at visitors centers. The Canadian Crafts Federation (506-444-3315; www.canadiancraftsfederation.ca) also has information on locally made items.

Art & Jewelry

Yellowknife is North America’s diamond capital and Dawson City is still profiting from its Klondike gold-rush days; both mean the north is a great place to buy shiny baubles. Yellowknife is also the best place in Canada for buying aboriginal art and crafts. There are paintings and prints, but the most stunning items are carved sculptures representing various animals and spirits, made from soapstone, antler, wood, bone and jade. The Inuit in Nunavut also make stunning embroidered tapestries that would brighten up any room. The Dene in Fort Liard are famous for their birch-bark baskets adorned with porcupine quills.

Woodcarving has enjoyed a long tradition, notably in St Jean Port Joli in Québec and along the French Shore of Nova Scotia. Chéticamp, also in Nova Scotia, is famous for its handmade hooked rugs. There’s a wealth of aboriginal art across the country; in BC it includes handmade jewelry, ceremonial masks, cedar sculptures and even totem poles.

Edibles

If you’re shopping for edible souvenirs, BC’s smoked salmon is a real treat. West coast purveyors will also pack fresh salmon to take on flights home. Wine (including ice wine) from Ontario’s Niagara region or British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley help wash it down. Sweet treats include maple syrup from Québec and New Brunswick, and partridgeberry and bakeapple jams from Newfoundland and Labrador. Rye whiskey is a Canadian specialty found throughout the country.

Fashion

Montréal is one of the best places for cool fashions by local designers such as Jean-Claude Poitras, Marie Saint-Pierre, Michel Desjardin and Maurice Ferland. In Vancouver, John Fluevog’s shoes and Yumi Eto’s glamour gowns have fans that include Madonna, Sarah McLachlan and Susan Sarandon.

BC is also home-base for Roots, a fine outdoor clothing company that has outlets across the country. It catapulted to international fame during the 2002 Winter Olympics when both the US and Canadian teams flaunted their comfy outfits. It’s kind of like Gap, Canadian-style. Mountain Equipment Co-op is the granddaddy of outdoor gear stores, with mightily stocked shops in Canada’s major cities.

Alberta and Saskatchewan are both great for discovering your inner cowboy/girl. There are plenty of stores selling quality Stetsons, neck ties and big belt buckles. Further north, in the Yukon and Northwest Territories, you’ll be able to stock up on such unique items as hand-sewn hide moccasins, gloves and vests. Nunavut has a wide selection of Arctic clothing made from caribou, sea wolf and even polar bear. Out east, colorful woolen items – sweaters, mittens, booties, hats, blankets – are hand-crafted in Newfoundland and Prince Edward Island and make great gifts.


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SOLO TRAVELERS

There are no particular problems or difficulties traveling alone in Canada. Going alone to cafés and restaurants is perfectly acceptable. People are generally friendly and easy to talk to. Women don’t need to be afraid of initiating a conversation, even with men. Unless you’re overtly coquettish, it most likely won’t be interpreted as a sexual advance. For more specific advice for women travelers, Click here.



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BUYING ABORIGINAL ART: HOW TO DO IT WISELY

Authentic aboriginal sculpture is exquisite, highly prized and expensive. A small soapstone carving can cost up to $500, depending on the detail. Jade and ivory are pricier still, and large sculptures can run into the thousands of dollars.



Unfortunately, such precious artwork has generated a roaring business in fakes. Mass-produced items, sometimes from places as far away as Bali, are often passed off as handmade in Canada – and priced accordingly. These imitations may look like the real thing, but they have no real value and are not endorsed by the artists or the Canadian government. Purchasing them robs Aboriginal people of their intellectual property and undercuts their economies.



If you’re coveting that dancing polar bear or reclining walrus for your mantelpiece, take a few cautionary steps to make sure it’s the real thing before handing over your credit card. To protect consumers and artists, the Canadian government has registered the symbol of the igloo as a trademark. Sculptures bearing this вЂ˜igloo tag’ or sticker are government-certified to be handmade by an Inuit. In addition, some artists carve their names or initials on their work either in Roman or Inuktikut script.



Be especially conscious of from whom you are purchasing the art. Ask lots of questions: Is the product made in Canada? Is it made by an Aboriginal artist? What is the artist’s name and where is he or she from? A reputable dealer will happily talk about the artists, their cultural background and the material used. Watch out for the wiggle words: carvings may be labeled вЂ˜Canadian soapstone’ but just because the raw material is from Canada, it doesn’t mean that an Aboriginal artist did the work.



Take time to shop around and learn about the item you want to buy. Check out art books, museums or other collections for information. Ask the staff at tourist offices or museums for reputable dealers. Purchasing handmade aboriginal art is an investment that should not be made lightly.





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TELEPHONE

Coin-operated public pay phones are fairly plentiful. Local calls cost 25Вў (sometimes 35Вў); many phones also accept prepaid phonecards and credit cards. Dialing the operator (0), directory assistance (411 for local calls, 1 + area code + 555-1212 for long-distance calls) or the emergency number (911) is free of charge from public phones; directory assistance may incur a charge from private phones. Note that 911 is not the emergency number in the Yukon, Northwest Territories or Nunavut (see those chapters for emergency numbers).

Fax

If you’re staying at upmarket hotels, fax transmissions are usually not a problem. There’s often no fee for receiving faxes, though sending them can be costly. If you carry a laptop with a fax modem, you only pay for the cost of the telephone call (but do keep in mind that hotel phone rates are often exorbitant). Faxes can also be sent from internet cafés and copy shops.

Cell Phones

As in the USA and Europe, cell phones are ubiquitous. The only foreign phones that will work in North America are tri-band models, operating on GSM 1900 and other frequencies. If you don’t have one of these, your best bet may be to buy a prepaid one at a consumer electronics store or via online retailers such as Telestial (www.telestial.com) or Planetfone (www.planetfone.com). Most phones will cost less than $125, including voicemail, some prepaid minutes and a rechargeable SIM card. Telus (www.telus.com) and Rogers (www.rogers.com) are Canada’s main cellular service providers, as well as Aliant (www.aliant.net) in the Atlantic provinces. These companies also offer options, so check with them. Unfortunately, it ain’t gonna be cheap.

US residents can often upgrade their domestic cell phone plan to extend to Canada. Verizon (www.verizonwireless.com) provides good results.

Reception is poor in rural areas no matter who your service provider is.

Phone Codes

Canadian phone numbers consist of a three-digit area code followed by a seven-digit local number. When dialing a number within the same area code, just dial the seven-digit number. Long-distance calls must be preceded by 1.

For direct international calls, dial 011 + country code + area code + local phone number. The country code for Canada is 1 (the same as for the USA, although international rates still apply for all calls made between the two countries).

Toll-free numbers begin with 800, 877 or 866 and must be preceded by 1. Some of these numbers are good throughout Canada and the USA, others only work within Canada, and some work in just one province.

Phonecards

Prepaid phonecards usually offer the best per-minute rates for long-distance and international calling. They come in denominations of $5, $10 or $20 and are widely sold in drugstores, supermarkets and convenience stores. Beware of cards with hidden charges such as вЂ˜activation fees’ or a per-call connection fee. A surcharge ranging from 30Вў to 85Вў for calls made from public pay phones is common.


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TIME

Canada spans six of the world’s 24 time zones. The Eastern zone in Newfoundland is unusual in that it’s only 30 minutes different from the adjacent zone. The time difference from coast to coast is 4½ hours.

For time comparisons, if it’s 3pm in Vancouver, it is 6pm in New York City and Montréal, 7:30pm in Newfoundland and 11pm in London. Refer to the World Time Zones map on Click here for additional data.

Canada observes daylight saving time, which comes into effect on the second Sunday in March, when clocks are put forward one hour, and ends on the first Sunday in November. Saskatchewan and small pockets of QuГ©bec, Ontario and BC are the only areas that do not switch to daylight saving time.

For detailed time zone information, see the website of the Institute for National Measurement Standards (www.nrc.ca/inms).

In QuГ©bec especially, times for shop hours, train schedules, film screenings etc are usually indicated by the 24-hour clock.


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TOURIST INFORMATION

The internet site maintained by the Canadian Tourism Commission (www.canada.travel) is loaded with general information, packages and links. All provincial tourist offices maintain comprehensive websites packed with information helpful in planning your trip. Staff also field telephone inquiries and, on request, will mail out free maps and directories about accommodations, attractions and events. Some offices can also help with making hotel, tour or other reservations.

For detailed information about a specific area, you’ll need to contact a local tourist office, aka visitors center. Just about every city and town has at least a seasonal branch with helpful staff, racks of free pamphlets and books and maps for sale. Visitor center addresses are listed in the Information sections for individual destinations throughout this book.

Provincial tourist offices:



Travel Alberta (800-252-3782; www.travelalberta.com; PO Box 2500, Edmonton, AB T5J 2Z4)

Tourism British Columbia (800-435-5622; www.hellobc.com; PO Box 9860, Stn Prov Govt/3rd fl, 1803 Douglas St, Victoria, BC V8W 9W5)

Travel Manitoba (800-665-0040; www.travelmanitoba.com; Dept SM5, 7th fl, 155 Carlton St, Winnipeg, MB R3C 3H8)

Tourism New Brunswick (800-561-0123; www.tourismnewbrunswick.ca; PO Box 12345, Campbellton, NB E3N 3T6)

Newfoundland & Labrador Tourism (800-563-6353; www.newfoundlandlabrador.com; PO Box 8700, St John’s, NL A1B 4J6)

Northwest Territories (NWT) Tourism (800-661-0788; www.explorenwt.com; PO Box 610, Yellowknife, NT X1A 2N5)

Tourism Nova Scotia (800-565-0000; www.novascotia.com; PO Box 456, Halifax, NS B3J 2R5)

Nunavut Tourism (866-686-2888; www.nunavuttourism.com; PO Box 1450, Iqaluit, NU X0A 0H0)

Ontario Tourism (800-668-2746; www.ontariotravel.net; 10th fl, Hearst Block, 900 Bay St, Toronto, ON M7A 2E1)

Prince Edward Island Tourism (800-463-4734; www.peiplay.com; PO Box 2000, Stn Central, Charlottetown, PE C1A 7N8)

Tourisme QuГ©bec (877-266-5687; www.bonjourquebec.com; PO Box 979, MontrГ©al, QC H3C 2W3)

Tourism Saskatchewan (877-237-2273; www.sasktourism.com; 1922 Park St, Regina, SK S4N 7M4)

Yukon Department of Tourism (800-661-0494; www.travelyukon.com; PO Box 2703, Whitehorse, YT Y1A 2C6)




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TRAVELERS WITH DISABILITIES

Canada is making progress when it comes to easing the everyday challenges facing people with disabilities, especially the mobility impaired. There is always room for improvement, and numerous lobby groups are working hard to ensure that governments and others are not resting on their laurels.

You’ll find access ramps and/or lifts in many public buildings, including museums, tourist offices, train stations, shopping malls and cinemas. Most public restrooms feature extra-wide stalls equipped with hand rails. Many pedestrian crossings have sloping curbs. Newer and recently remodeled hotels, especially chain hotels, have rooms with extra-wide doors and spacious bathrooms.

Interpretive centers at national and provincial parks are usually accessible, and many parks have trails that can be navigated in wheelchairs. In parking lots and garages, look for designated disabled spots marked with a painted wheelchair symbol. Car rental agencies offer hand-controlled vehicles and vans with wheelchair lifts at no additional charge, but you must reserve them well in advance. Click here for a list of rental agencies.

Getting around on public transport is possible but requires some planning. The best place to start is Access to Travel (www.accesstotravel.gc.ca), the federal government’s website with information on accessible air, bus, rail and ferry transportation. The site’s вЂ˜travel resources’ link leads to other useful websites sorted by province. In general, most transportation agencies can accommodate people with disabilities if you make your needs known when booking.

Other organizations specializing in the needs of travelers with disabilities:



Access-Able Travel Source (303-232-2979; www.access-able.com) A useful website with many links.

Canadian National Institute for the Blind (604-431-2121; www.cnib.ca)

Canadian Paraplegic Association (613-723-1033; www.canparaplegic.org) Information about facilities for mobility-impaired travelers in Canada.

Mobility International (in the USA 541-343-1284, in the UK 020-7403-5688; www.miusa.org) Advises travelers with disabilities on mobility issues and runs an educational exchange program.

Society for Accessible Travel & Hospitality (212-447-7284; www.sath.org) More useful links.




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VISAS

For information about passport requirements, Click here.

Citizens of dozens of countries – including the USA, most Western European and Commonwealth countries, as well as Mexico, Japan, South Korea and Israel – don’t need visas to enter Canada for stays of up to 180 days. US permanent residents are also exempt.

Nationals of around 150 other countries, including South Africa and China, need to apply to the Canadian visa office in their home country for a temporary resident visa (TRV). The website maintained by Citizenship & Immigration Canada (CIC; www.cic.gc.ca) has full details, including office addresses and the latest requirements. A separate visa is required if you plan to study or work in Canada (see Work, Click here).

Single-entry TRVs ($75) are usually valid for a maximum stay of six months from the date of your arrival in Canada. Multiple-entry TRVs ($150) allow you to enter Canada from all other countries multiple times while the visa is valid (usually two or three years), provided no single stay exceeds six months.

Visa extensions ($75) need to be filed with the CIC Visitor Case Processing Centre (888-242-2100; 8am-4pm Mon-Fri) in Alberta at least one month before your current visa expires.

Visiting the USA

Visitors to Canada who also plan to spend time in the USA should know that admission requirements are subject to rapid change. Check with a US consulate in your home country or the visa website maintained by the US State Department (www.travel.state.gov) for the latest eligibility requirements.

Under the US visa-waiver program, visas are not currently required for citizens of 27 countries – including most EU members, Australia and New Zealand – for visits of up to 90 days (no extensions allowed), as long as you can present a machine-readable passport. Passports issued after October 26, 2005 must also contain digitized information, such as a fingerprint or face scan. If you don’t have such a passport, you will need to apply for a US visa in your home country.

Canadians do not need visas, though they may need passports; check the website above to assess the ever-changing situation. Citizens of all other countries need to apply for a US visa in their home country before arriving in Canada.

All visitors, regardless of their country of origin, are subject to a US$6 entry fee at land border crossings. Note that you don’t need a Canadian multiple-entry TRV for repeated entries into Canada from the USA, unless you have visited a third country.


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VOLUNTEERING

Volunteering provides the opportunity to interact with local folks and the land in ways you never would just passing through. Most organizations charge a fee, which varies depending on the length of the program and the type of food and lodging it provides. The fees usually do not cover travel to Canada. Groups that use volunteers:



Churchill Northern Studies Centre (204-675-2307; www.churchillscience.ca) Volunteer for four hours per day (anything from stringing wires to cleaning) and get free room and board; for further details, Click here.

Earthwatch (800-776-0188; www.earthwatch.org) Help scientists track whales off the coast of British Columbia, track moose and deer in Nova Scotia, and monitor climate change in Churchill, Manitoba or the Mackenzie Mountains of the Northwest Territories. Trips last from eight to 14 days and cost from $1850 to $4250.

Volunteers for Peace (802-259-2759; www.vfp.org) Offers tutoring stints in Aboriginal communities in Canada’s far north, as well as projects in Québec.

World-Wide Opportunities on Organic Farms (www.wwoof.ca; application fee $40) Work on an organic farm, usually in exchange for free room and board; check the website for locations throughout Canada.




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WOMEN TRAVELERS

Canada is generally a safe place for women to travel, even alone and even in the cities. Of course, this doesn’t mean you can let your guard down and blindly entrust your life to every stranger. Simply use the same common sense as you would at home.

In bars and nightclubs, solo women are likely to attract a lot of attention, but if you don’t want company, most men will respect a firm вЂ˜no thank you.’ If you feel threatened, protesting loudly will often make the offender slink away with embarrassment – or will at least spur other people to come to your defense. Note that carrying mace or pepper spray is illegal in Canada.

Physical attack is unlikely, but if you are assaulted, call the police immediately (911 except in the Yukon, Northwest Territories and Nunavut; see individual chapters for their emergency numbers) or contact a rape crisis center. A complete list is available from the Canadian Association of Sexual Assault Centres (604-876-2622; www.casac.ca). Hotlines in some of the major cities:



Calgary (403-237-5888)

Halifax (902-425-0122)

MontrГ©al (514-934-4504)

Toronto (416-597-8808)

Vancouver (604-255-6344)



Good online resources for women travelers include Journeywoman (www.journeywoman.com) and Her Own Way (www.voyage.gc.ca/main/pubs/PDF/her_own_way-en.pdf). The latter is published by the Canadian government for Canadian travelers, but it contains a great deal of general advice.


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WORK

In almost all cases, you need a valid work permit to work in Canada. Obtaining one may be difficult, as employment opportunities go to Canadians first. Before you can even apply, you need a specific job offer from an employer who in turn must have been granted permission from the government to give the position to a foreign national. Applications must be filed at a visa office of a Canadian embassy or consulate in your home country. Some jobs are exempt from the permit requirement. For full details, check with Citizenship & Immigration Canada (www.cic.gc.ca/english/work/index.asp).

Employers hiring temporary service workers (hotel, bar, restaurant, resort) and construction, farm or forestry workers often don’t ask for a permit. If you get caught, however, you can kiss Canada goodbye.

Students aged 18 to 30 from over a dozen countries, including the UK, Australia, New Zealand, Ireland and South Africa, are eligible to apply for a spot in the Student Work Abroad Program (SWAP; www.swap.ca). If successful, you get a one-year, nonextendable visa that allows you to work anywhere in Canada in any job you can get. Most вЂ˜SWAPpers’ find work in the service industry as waiters or bartenders.

Even if you’re not a student, you may be able to spend up to a year in Canada on a Working Holiday Program. You must be between 18 and 30 years old and a citizen of Australia, France, Germany, Ireland, Japan, the Netherlands, New Zealand, South Korea, Sweden or the UK. There are quotas for each country and spaces are filled on a first-come first-served basis. Check with the Canadian embassy in your country for details; a list of Canadian diplomatic and consular missions is available from Foreign Affairs & International Trade Canada (www.international.gc.ca/world/embassies/cra-en.asp).




Return to beginning of chapter





Transportation



Contents

Getting There & Away

Entering the Country

Air

Land

Sea

Getting Around

Air

Bicycle

Boat

Bus

Car & Motorcycle

Hitching & Ride-Sharing

Local Transportation

Tours

Train


GETTING THERE & AWAY

ENTERING THE COUNTRY

Passengers arriving in Canada by plane are given the standard immigration and customs forms to fill out during the flight. After landing you first go through immigration, then through customs. Officials can be very strict and you may be asked a series of questions. Questioning may be more intense at land border crossings and your car may be searched.

Having a criminal record of any kind, including a DUI (driving under the influence) charge, may keep you out of Canada. If this affects you, you should apply for a вЂ˜waiver of exclusion’ at a Canadian consulate in your country. The process costs $200, takes several weeks and approval is not guaranteed. If your conviction dates back 10 years or more, you’re automatically considered вЂ˜rehabilitated,’ at least as long as you haven’t broken the law since.

Like many countries, Canada is concerned about child abduction. For this reason, single parents, grandparents or guardians traveling with anyone under the age of 18 should carry proof of legal custody, or a notarized letter from the non-accompanying parent authorizing the trip. Not having such documentation may cause delays when entering the country. Unaccompanied children also will need a notarized letter of consent from both parents or legal guardians. This is in addition to their passport and/or proof of citizenship.



* * *



THINGS CHANGE…

The information in this chapter is particularly vulnerable to change. Check directly with the airline or a travel agent to make sure you understand how a fare (and ticket you may buy) works and be aware of the security requirements for international travel. Shop carefully. The details given in this chapter should be regarded as pointers and are not a substitute for your own careful, up-to-date research.





* * *



Passport

Visitors from all countries need a passport to enter Canada. Actually, US citizens don’t need a passport to get into Canada so much as they need one to return to the USA. At the time of research, the USA was putting a new rule into effect that requires everyone to have a passport to cross into its borders, be it by air, sea or land. These rules have been known to change (particularly the land-border crossing information), so check the websites for the US State Department (www.travel.state.gov) and Citizenship & Immigration Canada (www.cic.gc.ca) for updates.

Visitors from selected countries also require a visa to enter Canada (Click here).


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AIR

Airports & Airlines

Canada has about 500 airports and 800 unpaved landing strips, but you’re most likely to arrive at one of the following international gateways:



Calgary (YYC; 403-735-1200; www.calgaryairport.com)

Edmonton (YEG; 780-890-8382, 800-268-7134; www.edmontonairports.com)

Halifax (YHZ; 902-873-4422; www.hiaa.ca)

MontrГ©al (Trudeau; YUL; 514-394-7377, 800-465-1213; www.admtl.com)

Ottawa (YOW; 613-248-2000; www.ottawa-airport.ca)

St John’s (YYT; 709-758-8581; www.stjohnsairport.com)

Toronto (Pearson; YYZ; 416-776-3000; www.gtaa.com)

Vancouver (YVR; 604-207-7077; www.yvr.ca)

Winnipeg (YWG; 204-987-9402; www.waa.ca)



Air Canada, the national flagship carrier, is considered one of the world’s safest airlines. Other companies based in Canada and serving international destinations are the charter airlines Air Transat and Zoom and the discount airline WestJet. In addition, numerous US airlines and national carriers of other countries serve Canada.

The following list contains airlines’ tele- phone numbers in Canada for reservations, flight changes and information. For contact information in your home country, see the websites.

Air Canada (AC; 888-247-2262; www.aircanada.com)



Air France (AF; 800-667-2747; www.airfrance.com/ca)

Air New Zealand (NZ; 800-663-5494; www.airnewzealand.ca)

Air Transat (TS; 866-847-1919; www.airtransat.com)

Alaska Air & Horizon Air (AS; 800-252-7522; www.alaskaair.com)

Alitalia (AZ; 800-268-9277; www.alitalia.com/ca_en)

American Airlines (AA; 800-433-7300; www.aa.com)

ANA (EL; 800-235-9262; www.anaskyweb.com)

Astraeus Airlines (5W; 877-428-9425; www.flystar.com)

British Airways (BA; 800-247-9297; www.ba.com)

CanJet (C6; 800-809-7777; www.canjet.com)

Cathay Pacific (CX; 800-268-6868; www.cathay.ca)

China Airlines (CI; 800-227-5118; www.china-airlines.com)

Continental Airlines (CO; 800-231-0856; www.continental.com)

Condor (DE; 800-364-1667; www.condor.com)

Czech Airlines (OK; 416-363-3174; www.czech-airlines.com)

Delta Airlines (DL; 800-241-4141; www.delta.com)

Eva Air (BR; 800-695-1188; www.evaair.com)

Japan Airlines (JL; 800-525-3663; www.ar.jal.com)

Lufthansa (LH; 800-563-5954; www.lufthansa.com)

Northwest Airlines (NW; 800-225-2525; www.nwa.com)

Philippine Airlines (PR; 800-235-9262; www.philippineairlines.com)

Qantas (QF; 800-227-4500; www.qantas.com.au)

Singapore Airlines (SQ; 800-387-0038; www.singaporeair.com)

Swiss Air (LX; 877-359-7947; www.swiss.com)

United Airlines (UA; 800-241-6522; www.united.ca)

US Airways (US; 800-428-4322; www.usairways.com)

WestJet (WS; 800-538-5696, 888-937-8538; www.westjet.com)

Zoom (Z4; 866-359-9666; www.flyzoom.com)





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CLIMATE CHANGE & TRAVEL

Climate change is a serious threat to the ecosystems that humans rely upon, and air travel is the fastest-growing contributor to the problem. Lonely Planet regards travel, overall, as a global benefit, but believes we all have a responsibility to limit our personal impact on global warming.



Flying & climate change

Pretty much every form of motorized travel generates CO2 (the main cause of human-induced climate change) but planes are far and away the worst offenders, not just because of the sheer distances they allow us to travel, but because they release greenhouse gases high into the atmosphere. The statistics are frightening: two people taking a return flight between Europe and the US will contribute as much to climate change as an average household’s gas and electricity consumption over a whole year.



Carbon offset schemes

Climatecare.org and other websites use вЂ˜carbon calculators’ that allow travelers to offset the level of greenhouse gases they are responsible for with financial contributions to sustainable travel schemes that reduce global warming – including projects in India, Honduras, Kazakhstan and Uganda.



Lonely Planet, together with Rough Guides and other concerned partners in the travel industry, support the carbon offset scheme run by climatecare.org. Lonely Planet offsets all of its staff and author travel.



For more information check out our website: www.lonelyplanet.com.





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Tickets

Since the airplane ticket eats the single biggest chunk out of most travel budgets, it’s wise to spend a little time shopping around. Basically, timing is key when it comes to snapping up cheap fares. As a rule of thumb, you can save a bundle by booking as early as possible (at least three weeks in advance, more for summer dates) and by traveling midweek (Tuesday to Thursday) and in the off-season (October to mid-May, except for winter-sports destinations). Departures in the late evening or early morning may also be less costly than the daytime flights popular with suits. Some airlines offer lower fares if you stay over a Saturday.

Online agencies are good places to start searching for low-cost fares, but they are best when used in conjunction with other search engines. One of these is ITA Software (www.itasoftware.com), a search matrix that sorts results by price, while also alerting to downsides such as long layovers, tight connections or overnight travel. No software download is required. Note this site does not actually sell tickets, which must be bought from a travel agent or the airline.

Another handy tool is Sidestep (www.sidestep.com), whose search includes low-cost carriers that are not covered by companies such as Expedia and Orbitz. This site requires a free software download that may contain spyware.

One way to learn about late-breaking bargain fares is by signing on to airlines’ free weekly email newsletters. Even old-fashioned newspaper can yield deals, especially in times of fare wars, when airlines plaster the travel sections with giant ads. And don’t forget about travel agents, who can be especially helpful when planning extensive trips or complicated routes.

Tickets for flights departing from Canada, whether purchased in Canada or abroad, should include departure taxes. Some airports also charge departing passengers a so-called вЂ˜airport improvement tax,’ usually $10 or $15.



Cheap Tickets (www.cheaptickets.com)

Expedia (www.expedia.com)

Hotwire (www.hotwire.com)

Info-Hub Specialty Travel Guide (www.infohub.com/travelnow.html)

Lowestfare (www.lowestfare.com)

Orbitz (www.orbitz.com)

Priceline (www.priceline.com)

STA Travel (www.sta.com)

Travelocity (www.travelocity.com)

Yahoo! Travel (www.travel.yahoo.com)



COURIER FLIGHTS

If you’re on a flexible schedule and traveling solo, flying as a courier might save you a bundle. Couriers accompany freight to its destination, in exchange for a discounted ticket. You don’t have to handle any shipment personally; you simply deliver the freight papers to a representative of the courier company at your destination. Your luggage is limited to carry-on and there may be other restrictions, such as the length of stay.

International Association of Air Travel Couriers (IAATC; 515-292-2458; www.courier.org) and Air Courier Association (ACA; 877-303-4258; www.aircourier.org) are both US-based central clearing houses that keep track of routes offered by courier companies; membership is required. IAATC also has a UK office (0800-0746-481; www.aircourier.co.uk), though at the time of research it was not accepting new members.

INTERCONTINENTAL (RTW) TICKETS

Round-the-world (RTW) tickets are great, if you want to visit other countries besides Canada. They’re usually more expensive than a simple round-trip ticket, but the extra stops are good value. They’re of most value for trips that combine Canada with Europe, Asia or Australasia. RTW itineraries that include South America or Africa, as well as North America, are substantially more expensive.

Official RTW tickets are usually put together by a combination of airlines, or an entire alliance, and permit you to fly to a specified number of stops and/or a maximum mileage, so long as you don’t backtrack. They are usually valid for one year. An alternative type of RTW ticket is one put together by a travel agent using a combination of discounted tickets.

Most RTW fares restrict the number of stops within Canada and the USA. The cheapest fares permit only one stop; others allow two or more. Some airlines вЂ˜black out’ a few heavily traveled routes (such as Honolulu to Tokyo). In most cases a 14-day advance purchase is required. After the ticket is purchased, dates can usually be changed without penalty, and tickets can be rewritten to add or delete stops for an extra charge.



Air Treks (www.airtreks.com)

Circle the Planet (www.circletheplanet.com)

Just Fares (www.justfares.com)



Asia

The main Canadian gateway for flights originating in Asia is Vancouver. Air Canada operates nonstop services from Hong Kong, Osaka, Seoul, Shanghai, Taipei and Tokyo. Japan Airlines and ANA fly in from Tokyo, Philippine Airlines from Manila, China Airlines and Eva Air from Taipei and Cathay Pacific from Hong Kong. In addition, Air Canada operates direct flights to Toronto from Tokyo and Hong Kong.

Traveling to other Canadian cities requires a stopover or transfer, often in a US gateway city such as Los Angeles or Chicago.



Four Seas Tours Hong Kong (2200-7777; www.fourseastravel.com)

No 1 Travel Tokyo (3205-6073; www.no1-travel.com)

STA Travel Bangkok (236-0262; www.statravel.co.th); Singapore (6737-7188; www.statravel.com.sg); Hong Kong (2722-7378; www.statravel.hk); Tokyo (5391-2922; www.statravel.co.jp)



Australia & New Zealand

There are no nonstop flights from Australia or New Zealand to Canada. The best route is from Sydney to Los Angeles, with onward service to your Canadian destination. Air Canada, Air New Zealand and Qantas are the dominant airlines on this route, but United Airlines and American Airlines also offer flights. Some flights stop in Honolulu.

AUSTRALIA



Flight Centre (133-133; www.flightcentre.com.au)

STA Travel (134-782; www.statravel.com.au)



NEW ZEALAND



Flight Centre (0800-243-544; www.flightcentre.co.nz)

Go Holidays (www.goholidays.co.nz)

STA Travel (0800-474-400; www.statravel.co.nz)



Continental Europe

Toronto is the main gateway for European flights. Air Canada is the primary carrier, with services from Amsterdam, Copenhagen, Frankfurt, Munich, Paris, Vienna and Zurich. European airlines flying to Toronto include Alitalia, Czech Airlines and Lufthansa.

If you’re headed for Montréal, you’ll find direct flights from Amsterdam (KLM/Northwest), Frankfurt (Air Canada), Paris (Air France, Air Canada), Prague (Czech Airlines) and Zurich (Swiss Air). Air Canada also operates a direct flight from Frankfurt to Calgary, while KLM and Lufthansa fly nonstop to Vancouver. In summer, Condor flies from Frankfurt to Whitehorse. The charter airline Air Transat also adds summertime options, flying from nine European countries to all major Canadian cities, including Edmonton and Halifax. The charter airline Zoom flies from Paris to Vancouver, Calgary, Toronto, Montréal and Halifax.

FRANCE



Anyway (0892-302-301; www.anyway.fr)

Lastminute (0892-705-000; www.fr.lastminute.com)

Nouvelles FrontiГЁres (0825-000-747; www.nouvelles-frontieres.fr)

Voyages Wasteels (www.wasteels.fr) Specializes in student and youth travelers.



GERMANY



Just Travel (089-747-3330; www.justtravel.de)

Lastminute (01805-284-366; www.lastminute.de)

STA Travel (069-743-032-92; www.statravel.de)



ITALY

CTS Viaggi (06-462-0431; www.cts.it)

NETHERLANDS

Airfair (020-620-5121; www.airfair.nl)

SPAIN

BarcelГі Viajes (902-116-226; www.barceloviajes.com)

UK & Ireland

The UK is especially well connected to major Canadian cities. Air Canada, British Airways and Air Transat together operate some 40 daily flights from London to Toronto alone. There are also direct connections on Air Canada from London to Calgary, Halifax, MontrГ©al and Vancouver. British Airways also serves MontrГ©al and Vancouver. And charter airline Zoom specializes in linking the UK to Canada, with flights from London, Glasgow, Cardiff, Belfast and Manchester to all major Canadian cities.

Besides the travel agencies listed in this section, look for special deals in the travel pages of the weekend broadsheet newspapers or in Time Out, the Evening Standard and the free magazine TNT. Whatever agency you book with, make sure it’s registered with the Association of British Travel Agents (ABTA), which will guarantee a refund or an alternative ticket, if you’ve paid money to an agent who ends up going out of business.



Ebookers (www.ebookers.com)

Flight Centre (0870-499-0040; www.flightcentre.co.uk)

North South Travel (01245-608-291; www.northsouthtravel.co.uk) Donates a percentage of profits to projects in the developing world.

Opodo Travel (0871-277-0090; www.opodo.co.uk)

STA Travel (0871-230-0040; www.statravel.co.uk)

Trailfinders (0845-058-5858; www.trailfinders.com)

Travel Bag (0800-804-8911; www.travelbag.co.uk)



USA

Flights to Canada from the USA abound. Air Canada and its subsidiary Air Canada Jazz connect several major US cities with Vancouver, Calgary, MontrГ©al, Toronto and Ottawa. Practically all other US carriers, including US Airways, United Airlines, American Airlines, Continental, Delta and Northwest Airlines, also head to numerous north-of-the-border destinations. Alaska Air and Horizon Air have flights to western Canada, with most of them originating in Seattle, except for Calgary, which is served from Los Angeles as well.

Bargain hounds should also consider discount carrier WestJet, which flies to Calgary and Toronto from several cities in Florida, California and Arizona. Air Transat has seasonal flights to Toronto and MontrГ©al from Orlando and Fort Lauderdale.



FlightCentre (866-967-5351; www.flightcentre.us)

STA Travel (800-781-4040; www.statravel.com)

Travel Cuts USA (800-592-2887; www.travelcuts.com)




Return to beginning of chapter

LAND

Border Crossings

There are 22 official border crossings along the US-Canadian border, from New Brunswick to British Columbia. The website maintained by the Canadian Border Services Agency (www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca/general/times/menu-e.html) shows current wait times at each of them. In general, waits rarely exceed 30 minutes, except during the peak summer season, and on Friday and Sunday afternoons, especially on holiday weekends, when you might get stuck at the border for several hours. Some entry points are especially busy:



Windsor, Ontario, to Detroit, Michigan

Fort Erie, Ontario, to Buffalo, New York State

Niagara Falls, Ontario, to Niagara Falls, New York State

Québec to Rouse’s Point, New York State

Surrey, British Columbia, to Blaine, Washington State



Other border points tend to be quieter, sometimes so quiet that the officers have nothing to do except tear apart your luggage. When approaching the border, turn off any music, take off your sunglasses and be exceptionally polite. Most officers do not welcome casual conversation, jokes or clever remarks.

When returning to the USA, check the website for the US Department for Homeland Security (http://apps.cbp.gov/bwt) for border wait times.

For information on documents needed to enter Canada, Click here.

Bus

Greyhound (800-231-2222; www.greyhound.com) and its Canadian equivalent, Greyhound Canada (800-661-8747; www.greyhound.ca), operate the largest bus network in North America, with services to 3600 destinations. There are direct connections between main cities in the USA and Canada, but you usually have to transfer to a different bus at the border. See the table below for sample fares and durations.



Tickets can be purchased at Greyhound terminals. Sometimes you can purchase tickets over the phone or online (depending on if you reserve 10 days in advance, if the bus station you’re traveling from has a вЂ˜will call’ service, and if you don’t mind paying a service charge, which varies but can be up to $15). For information on discounts, passes and reservations, Click here. Some passengers have reported difficulty in obtaining advance-purchase discounts when trying to book cross-border tickets.

Car & Motorcycle

The highway system of the continental USA connects directly with the Canadian highway system at numerous points along the border. These Canadian highways then meet up with the east–west Trans-Canada Hwy further north. Between the Yukon Territory and Alaska, the main routes are the Alaska and Klondike Hwys and Haines Rd.

If you’re driving into Canada, you’ll need the vehicle’s registration papers, proof of liability insurance and your home driver’s license. Cars rented in the USA can usually be driven into Canada and back, but make sure your rental agreement says so in case you are questioned by border officials. If you’re driving a car registered in someone else’s name, bring a letter from the owner authorizing use of the vehicle in Canada. For general information about border crossings Click here. For details about driving within Canada, see above.

Train

Amtrak (800-872-7245; www.amtrak.com) runs four routes between the USA and Canada. In the east, one train daily runs from New York City to Montréal; another runs from New York City to Toronto; and a third connects Buffalo, New York State, to Toronto. On the west coast, one train daily chugs from Seattle to Vancouver. The North America Rail Pass is valid on both Amtrak and Canada’s VIA Rail.


Return to beginning of chapter

SEA

Ferry

On the east coast, there are ferry services from both Bar Harbor and Portland, Maine, to Yarmouth in southwestern Nova Scotia. Another ferry runs from Deer Island, New Brunswick, to Eastport, Maine.

On the west coast, ferries travel between Washington State and Victoria on Vancouver Island. From Port Hardy on northern Vancouver Island, ferries also head north along the Inside Passage to Alaska. Travelers bound for the Yukon should consider the ferry service to either Haines or Skagway, Alaska, from Prince Rupert, British Columbia.

Freighters

An adventurous, though not necessarily inexpensive, way to travel to or from Canada is aboard a cargo ship. Freighters carry between three and 12 passengers and, though considerably less luxurious than cruise ships, they give a salty taste of life at sea. A 15-day trip from MontrГ©al to Italy typically costs between $1850 and $2150. Your best sources of information are Cruise & Freighter Travel Association (800-872-8584 in USA; www.travltips.com) and Freighter World Cruises (626-449-3106, in USA 800-531-7774; www.freighterworld.com).


Return to beginning of chapter


GETTING AROUND

AIR

Airlines in Canada

The Canadian airline industry has experienced great turbulence in recent years. Even Air Canada, the country’s largest carrier and a Star Alliance member, got into trouble for a while but finally emerged from bankruptcy protection in October 2004 following major financial restructuring. Despite such woes the company still operates the largest domestic-flight network serving some 150 destinations together with its regional subsidiary, Air Canada Jazz.

Low-cost, low-frills carriers are chasing Air Canada’s wings. The biggest is Calgary-based WestJet. In response, Air Canada entered the discount game by introducing inexpensive вЂ˜Tango’ fares, which sometimes undercut even the discount carriers, on its regular flights.

The Canadian aviation arena also includes many independent regional and local airlines, which tend to focus on small, often-remote regions, mostly in the North. Depending on the destination, fares in such noncompetitive markets can be high.

See the Getting There & Away and Getting Around sections of the regional chapters for specific route and fare information. The following is a list of the main domestic carriers.



Air Canada (888-247-2262; www.aircanada.com) Nationwide flights.

Air Canada Jazz (888-247-2262; www.aircanada.com) Regional flights throughout western and eastern Canada.

Air Creebec (800-567-6567; www.aircreebec.ca) Serves northern QuГ©bec and Ontario, including Chisasibi and Chibougamau from MontrГ©al and other cities.

Air Inuit (888-247-2262; www.airinuit.com) Flies from MontrГ©al to all 14 Inuit communities in Nunavik, including Kuujjuaq and Puvirnituq.

Air Labrador (800-563-3042; www.airlabrador.com) Flights within Newfoundland and Labrador.

Air North ( in Canada 867-668-2228, in USA 800-661-0407, 800-764-0407; www.flyairnorth.com) Flights within British Columbia, Alberta, Yukon, Northwest Territories and Alaska.

Air St-Pierre (902-873-3566, 877-277-7765; www.airsaintpierre.com) Flights from eastern Canada to the French territories off Newfoundland’s coast.

Bearskin Airlines (800-465-2327; www.bearskinairlines.com) Serves 15 destinations throughout Ontario and eastern Manitoba.

Calm Air (204-778-6471, 800-839-2256; www.calmair.com) Flights throughout Manitoba and Nunavut.

Canadian North (800-661-1505; www.canadiannorth.com) Flights to, from and within the Northwest Territories and Nunavut.

Central Mountain Air (888-865-8585; www.cmair.bc.ca) Destinations throughout British Columbia and Alberta.

First Air (800-267-1247; www.firstair.ca) Flies from Ottawa, MontrГ©al, Winnipeg and Edmonton to 24 Arctic destinations, including Whitehorse and Iqaluit.

Harbour Air (800-665-0212; www.harbour-air.com) Seaplane service from the city of Vancouver to Vancouver Island and the Gulf Islands.

Hawkair (866-429-5247; www.hawkair.ca) Serves northern British Columbia from Vancouver and Victoria.

Kenn Borek Air (867-252-3845; www.borekair.com) Serves Iqaluit and other communities around Nunavut.

Kivalliq Air (204-888-5619, 877-855-1500; www.kivalliqair.com) Flies from Winnipeg to Churchill and Nunavut.

Pacific Coastal Airlines (800-663-2872; www.pacific-coastal.com) Vancouver-based airline with service to many British Columbia locales.

Porter Airlines (888-619-8622; www.flyporter.com) Flies small turboprop planes from Montréal, Halifax and Ottawa to Toronto’s quicker, more convenient City Centre Airport downtown.

Provincial Airlines (800-563-2800; www.provincialairlines.ca) St John’s–based airline with service throughout Newfoundland and to Labrador.

Seair Seaplanes (604-273-8900, 800-447-3247; www.seairseaplanes.com) Flies from Vancouver to, and between, the Southern Gulf Islands in British Columbia.

Sunwing (877-786-9464; www.flysunwing.com) Charter airline that flies throughout Canada.

Transwest Air (800-667-9356; www.transwestair.com) Service within Saskatchewan.

West Coast Air (800-347-2222; www.westcoastair.com) Seaplane service from Vancouver city to Vancouver Island and the Sunshine Coast.

WestJet (800-538-5696, 888-937-8538; www.westjet.com) Calgary-based low-cost carrier serving destinations throughout Canada.



Air Passes

Overseas travelers planning to do a lot of flying within Canada, or around the USA and Canada, might save some money by buying an air pass. Star Alliance (www.staralliance.com) members Air Canada, United Airlines and US Airways have teamed up to offer the North American Airpass, which is available to anyone not residing in the USA, Canada, Mexico, Bermuda or the Caribbean. It’s sold only in conjunction with an international flight operated by any Star Alliance–member airline. You can buy as few as three coupons (US$399) or as many as 10 (US$1099). Check the website for details.


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BICYCLE

Cycling across Canada would be an enormous, though not impossible, undertaking, but touring individual regions is easier to do and popular. Long-distance trips can be done entirely on quiet back roads, and many cities (including Edmonton, MontrГ©al, Ottawa, Toronto and Vancouver) have designated bike routes.

Cyclists must follow the same rules of the road as vehicles, but don’t expect drivers to always respect your right of way. Helmets may give you a bad hair day, but they are mandatory for all cyclists in British Columbia, New Brunswick, Prince Edward Island and Nova Scotia, as well as for anyone under 18 in Alberta and Ontario.

Emergency roadside assistance is available from the Better World Club (866-238-1137; www.betterworldclub.com). Membership costs $40 per year, plus a $10 enrollment fee, and entitles you to two free pick-ups, and transport to the nearest repair shop, or home, within a 50km radius of where you’re picked up.

Most airlines will carry bikes as checked luggage without charge on international flights, as long as they’re in a box. On domestic flights they usually charge between $30 and $65. Always check details before you buy the ticket.

If you’re traveling on Greyhound Canada, you must ship your bike as freight. In addition to a bike box ($10), you’ll be charged according to the weight of the bike, plus a 40% oversize charge and GST. Bikes only travel on the same bus as the passenger if there’s enough space. To ensure that yours arrives at the same time as (or before) you do, ship it a day early.

VIA Rail will transport your bicycle for $20, but only on trains offering checked-baggage service (which includes all long-distance and many regional trains).

For information on Canada’s sweetest mountain biking and cycling trails, Click here.

Purchase

Buying a bike is easy, as is reselling it before you leave. Specialist bike shops have the best selection and advice, but general sporting-goods stores may have lower prices. Some bicycle stores and rental outfitters also sell used bicycles. To sniff out the best bargains, scour flea markets, garage sales and thrift shops, or check the notice boards in hostels and universities. These are also the best places to sell your bike.

Rental

Outfitters renting bicycles exist in most tourist towns; many are listed throughout this book. Rentals cost around $15 per day for touring bikes and $25 per day for mountain bikes. The price usually includes a helmet and lock. Most companies require a security deposit of $20 to $200.


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BOAT

With oceans at both ends of the country and a lake- and river-filled interior, don’t be surprised to find yourself in a boat at some point. Extensive ferry services between islands and the mainland exist throughout the Atlantic provinces and in British Columbia. For route details, see the Getting There & Away and Getting Around sections of the destination chapters.

Walk-ons and cyclists should be able to get aboard at any time, but call ahead for vehicle reservations or if you require a cabin berth. This is especially important during summer peak season and holidays. Main operators include the following:



Bay Ferries (506-649-7777, 888-249-7245; www.bayferries.com) Year-round service between Saint John, New Brunswick, and Digby, Nova Scotia.

BC Ferries (250-386-3431, 888-223-3779; www.bcferries.com) Huge passenger-ferry systems with 25 routes and 46 ports of call, including Vancouver Island, the Gulf Islands, the Sechelt Peninsula along the Sunshine Coast and the Queen Charlotte Islands, all in British Columbia.

Coastal Transport (506-662-3724; www.coastaltransport.ca) Ferry from Blacks Harbour to Grand Manan in the Fundy Isles, New Brunswick.

CTMA Ferries (418-986-3278, 888-986-3278; www.ctma.ca) Daily ferries to Québec’s Îles de la Madeleine from Souris, Prince Edward Island.

East Coast Ferries (506-747-2159, 877-747-2159; www.eastcoastferries.nb.ca) Connects Deer Island to Campobello Island, both in the Fundy Isles, New Brunswick.

Labrador Marine (866-535-2567; www.labradormarine.com) Connects Newfoundland to Labrador.

Marine Atlantic (800-341-7981; www.marine-atlantic.ca) Connects Port aux Basques and Argentia in Newfoundland with North Sydney, Nova Scotia.

Northumberland Ferries (902-566-3838, 888-249-7245; www.peiferry.com) Connects Wood Islands, Prince Edward Island and Caribou, Nova Scotia.

Provincial Ferry Services (www.tw.gov.nl.ca/ferryservices) Operates coastal ferries throughout Newfoundland.




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BUS

Greyhound Canada (800-661-8747; www.greyhound.ca) is the king of the bus world, plowing along an extensive network in central and western Canada, as well as to/from the USA; Click here. In eastern Canada, it is part of an alliance of regional carriers, including OrlГ©ans Express in QuГ©bec and Acadian Lines in the Maritime provinces. You can usually transfer from one carrier to another on a single ticket.

Tickets can be bought at Greyhound terminals. You can also purchase tickets by phone or online (depending on if you reserve 10 days in advance, if the bus station you’re traveling from has a вЂ˜will call’ service and if you don’t mind paying a service charge, which can be up to $15). One-way tickets are generally valid for 60 days and round-trip tickets for a year, but this may vary by company and ticket type.

The frequency of bus services ranges from вЂ˜rarely’ to вЂ˜constantly,’ but even the least popular routes usually have one bus per day. Main routes will have a service every hour or so. Buses travel mostly on highways, but trips can still be very long because of the great distances. Express buses operate on busy routes.

By most standards, bus services are really quite good. Buses are generally clean, comfortable and reliable. Amenities may include onboard toilets, air-conditioning (bring a sweater), reclining seats and onboard movies. Smoking is not permitted. On long journeys, buses make meal stops every few hours, usually at highway service stations, where the food tends to be bad and overpriced.



Acadian Lines (800-567-5151; www.acadianbus.com) Service throughout New Brunswick, Nova Scotia and Prince Edward Island.

Autobus Maheux (888-797-0011; www.autobusmaheux.qc.ca) Service from Montréal to Québec’s northwest regions.

Coach Canada (800-461-7661; www.coachcanada.com) Scheduled service within Ontario and from Toronto to MontrГ©al.

DRL Coachlines (709-263-2171; www.drlgroup.com) Service throughout Newfoundland.

Intercar (888-861-4592; www.intercar.qc.ca) Connects QuГ©bec City, MontrГ©al and Tadoussac, among other towns in QuГ©bec.

Laidlaw Transit (519-376-5712, 519-376-5375) Operates within Ontario.

Limocar (866-700-8899; www.limocar.com) Regional service in QuГ©bec.

Malaspina Coach Lines (604-886-7742, 877-227-8287; www.malaspinacoach.com) Service between Vancouver and the Sunshine Coast in British Columbia.

Ontario Northland (800-461-8558; www.ontarionorthland.ca) Operates bus and train routes that service northern Ontario from Toronto.

OrlГ©ans Express (888-999-3977; www.orleansexpress.com) Service to eastern QuГ©bec.

Pacific Coach Lines (250-385-4411, 800-661-1725; www.pacificcoach.com) Service between Vancouver Island and mainland British Columbia.

Saskatchewan Transportation Company (STC; 800-663-7181; www.stcbus.com) Service within Saskatchewan.

Voyageur (800-661-8747; www.greyhound.ca) Operates within Ontario and QuГ©bec.



For information about traveling on buses operated by tour companies, Click here.

Bus Passes

Greyhound’s Discovery Pass (800-846-0754; www.greyhound.com) is valid for travel in both the USA and Canada. Note that for short-haul trips, the pass is not necessarily more economical than buying individual tickets. However, it can be worthwhile for onward, long-haul travel.

The pass ($283 to $645) allows unlimited travel from coast to coast, within periods ranging from seven to 60 days.

Passes can be purchased in person at any Greyhound terminal, and online at least 14 days prior to departure. Overseas travelers qualify for the slightly cheaper international versions of these passes, which are sold through selected agents around the world and online at least 21 days before your first Greyhound trip. Check the website for the nearest agent in your home country.

Costs

Bus travel is cheaper than other means of transport, and there are many ways you can avoid paying the full fare. Some minor variations aside, Greyhound and other bus operators generally lop 10% off regular fares for seniors, students and soldiers, while children under 12 pay half price. Hostelling International cardholders get 25% off fares. Advance purchases (seven or 14 days) also save quite a bit, as do вЂ˜companion fares’ (the second person travels for $20 on the same itinerary) and вЂ˜family fares’ (one child under 16 travels free on the same trip, if accompanied by an adult). Alas, special fares do come with restrictions and blackout periods, which are usually around major holidays. It’s also worth checking Greyhound’s website for the latest promotions. For specific route and fare information, see the Getting There & Away sections of the regional chapters.

Sample long-distance fares with Greyhound include the following:

Route Standard

Fare 7-day

Fare Duration

Vancouver–Calgary $137 $70 14-17hr

Montréal–Toronto $94 $42 8-10hr

Toronto–Vancouver $370 $160 65-70hr

Reservations

Greyhound and most other bus lines don’t take reservations, and even buying tickets in advance does not guarantee you a seat on any particular bus. Show up at least 45 minutes to one hour prior to the scheduled departure time, and chances are pretty good you’ll get on. Allow more time on Friday and Sunday afternoons and around holidays.


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CAR & MOTORCYCLE

Automobile Associations

For long road trips in your own vehicle or a rental car, an auto-club membership is an excellent thing to have. The main motoring organization is the Canadian Automobile Association (CAA; 800-268-3750; www.caa.ca), which has offices in all major cities and many smaller ones. CAA’s services, including 24-hour emergency roadside assistance, are also available to members of its international affiliates such as AAA in the USA, AA in the UK and ADAC in Germany. The club also offers trip-planning advice, free maps, travel-agency services and a range of discounts on hotels, car rentals etc.

In recent years, Better World Club, which donates 1% of its annual revenue to environmental cleanup efforts, has emerged as an alternative. It offers service throughout the USA and Canada, and also has a roadside-assistance program for bicycles.

Bring Your Own Vehicle

Requirements for bringing your car into Canada are discussed on Click here. Forget about shipping your car from overseas, unless you’re actually moving to Canada. It simply doesn’t make economic sense and you’ll be better off renting a car in Canada (see right).

Driver’s License

In most provinces visitors can legally drive for up to three months with their home driver’s license. In some, such as British Columbia, this is extended to six months. However, the easiest thing to do, especially if you’re spending considerable time in the country, is to get an International Driving Permit (IDP), which is valid for one year. Just grab a passport photo and your home license, and stop by your local automobile association, which will issue you one for a small fee. IDPs may give you greater credibility with traffic police and ease the car-rental process, especially if your home license doesn’t have a photograph or is not written in English or French.



Fuel & Spare Parts

Most gas stations are self-service and finding one is generally not a problem, except in sparsely populated areas such as the Yukon or northern Québec. In those regions, it’s a good idea to fill your tank every time you pass a gas station, and to carry a canister filled with gasoline as a backup. Some gas stations are closed on Sunday.

Finding spare parts can be a tall order away from the big cities. When traveling in remote regions, always bring some tools and at least a spare tire. Roadside emergency assistance Click here is useful, too.

Gas is sold in liters (see the inside front cover for a metric conversion chart). At the time of writing, the average for midgrade fuel was $1.15 per liter (about C$4.40 per US gallon). Prices are higher in remote areas, with Yellowknife usually setting the national record; drivers in Winnipeg pay the least for gas. Prices in Canada are usually higher than in the USA, so fill up before you cross the border.

Insurance

Canadian law requires liability insurance for all vehicles, to cover you for damage caused to property and people. The minimum requirement is $200,000 in all provinces except QuГ©bec, where it is $50,000. If you already have auto insurance at home, or if you have purchased travel insurance, make sure that the policy has adequate liability cover for where you’ll be driving. Americans traveling to Canada in their own car should ask their insurance company for a Nonresident Interprovince Motor Vehicle Liability Insurance Card (commonly known as a вЂ˜yellow card’), which is accepted as evidence of financial responsibility anywhere in Canada. Although not mandatory, it may come in handy in an accident.

Car-rental agencies will provide liability insurance. Sometimes adequate cover is already included in the base rental rate, but always ask to be sure. Insurance against damage to the car itself, called Collision Damage Waiver (CDW), reduces or eliminates the amount you’ll have to reimburse the rental company. It’s optional but, although it’s expensive ($13 to $17 per day), it’s unwise to drive without it. Certain credit cards, especially the gold and platinum versions, cover CDW for a certain rental period, if you use the card to pay for the rental, and decline the policy offered by the rental company. Always check with your card issuer to see what coverage they offer in Canada.

Personal accident insurance (PAI) covers you and any passengers for medical costs incurred as a result of an accident. If your travel insurance or your health-insurance policy at home does this as well (and most do, but check), then this is one expense you can do without.

Rental

As anywhere, rates for car rentals vary considerably by model and pick-up location, but you should be able to get an economy-sized vehicle for about $35 to $65 per day. Expect surcharges for rentals originating at airports and train stations and for additional drivers and one-way rentals. Child safety seats are compulsory (reserve them when you book) and cost about $8 per day.

In order to rent your own wheels in Canada you generally need to be at least 25 years old and hold a valid driver’s license (an international one may be required if you’re not from an English- or French-speaking country – see opposite) and a major credit card. American Express, Diners, Visa and MasterCard are widely accepted, and JCB (Japan Credit Bank) and Discover are usually fine as well, but it’s best to check in advance. Some companies may rent to drivers between the ages of 21 and 24 for an additional charge (about $15 to $25 per day). Those under 21, or not in possession of a credit card, are usually out of luck.

Major international car-rental companies usually have branches at airports, train stations and in city centers.



Avis (800-437-0358; www.avis.com)

Budget (800-268-8900; www.budget.com)

Dollar (800-800-4000; www.dollar.com)

Enterprise (800-736-8222; www.enterprise.com)

Hertz (800-263-0600; www.hertz.com)

National (800-227-7368; www.nationalcar.com)

Rent A Wreck (800-327-0116; www.rentawreck.ca)

Thrifty (800-847-4389; www.thrifty.com)



Local agencies may offer lower rates, so it’s worth checking with them as well. Independents are more likely to rent to drivers under 25, and may even accept cash or traveler’s-check deposits. About 300 independent agencies are represented by Car Rental Express (www.carrentalexpress.com), which may yield savings of up to 25% off rates charged by the national chains.

Pre-booked and prepaid packages arranged in your home country often work out to be cheaper than on-the-spot rentals. The same is true of fly-drive packages. Search the car-rental agency and airline websites, as well as online travel agencies for deals.

MOTORCYCLE

Several companies offer motorcycle rentals and tours, but rates can be steep: a Harley Heritage Softail Classic costs about $210 per day, including liability insurance and 200km mileage. Some companies have minimum rental periods, which can be as much as seven days. Riding a hog is especially popular in British Columbia.



Coastline Motorcycle Tours & Rentals (250-335-1837, 866-338-0344; www.coastlinemc.com) Out of Victoria and Vancouver in British Columbia.

Great Canadian Motor Corporation (250-837-6500, 800-667-8865; www.gcmc.com) Rents bikes out of Vancouver and Calgary.

McScoots Motorcycle & Scooter Rentals (250-763-4668; www.mcscoots.com) Big selection of Harleys, also operates motorcycle tours, based in Kelowna, British Columbia.

Okanagan Motorcycle Rentals & Tours (250-860-5270, 866-810-8687; www.okanaganmotorcycle.com) Also out of Kelowna.



RECREATIONAL VEHICLES

The RV market is big in the west, with specialized agencies in Calgary, Edmonton, Whitehorse, Vancouver and other cities (see the Yellow Pages under вЂ˜Recreational Vehicles’). But RVs and camper vans can also be rented in Toronto, and other central and eastern cities. For summer travel, book as early as possible, as the popular models rent quickly. The base cost is roughly $160 to $265 per day in high season for mid-sized vehicles, although insurance, fees and taxes add a hefty chunk to the final bill. Diesel-fueled RVs have considerably lower running costs. Your travel agency back home may have the best deals, or check out some recommended companies:



Canadream Campers (403-291-1000, 800-461-7368; www.canadream.com) Based in Calgary with rentals (including one-ways) in 10 cities, including Vancouver, Whitehorse and Halifax.

Go West Campers (800-661-8813; www.go-west.com) Rents out of Calgary and Coquitlam, British Columbia (near Vancouver).



Road Conditions & Hazards

Most roadway dangers in Canada can be avoided with simple common sense and courteous driving, but there are a few points to bear in mind.

Fierce winters can leave potholes the size of landmine craters, so be prepared to swerve. Winter travel in general can be hazardous due to heavy snow and ice, which may cause some roads and bridges to close periodically. The website maintained by the CAA (www.caa.ca) has useful tips on winter driving, and the website for Transport Canada (800-387-4999; www.tc.gc.ca/road) provides links to road conditions and construction zones for each province.

In general, make sure your vehicle is in top shape, and equipped with four-seasonal radial or snow tires, and emergency supplies in case you’re stranded. Distances between services can be long, so keep your gas topped up whenever possible. Remember that much of Canada is wilderness. This means that moose, deer and elk may insist on sharing the road with you – especially at night. There’s just no contest between an 1800lb bull moose and a Subaru, so keep your eyes peeled. And don’t roll down your windows to share your Cheetos with bear (Click here).

Road Rules

Canadians drive on the right-hand side of the road. Seat belt use is compulsory at all times. Children under 18kg must be strapped in child-booster seats, except infants, who must be in a rear-facing safety seat. Motorcyclists must wear helmets and drive with their headlights on.

Distances and speed limits are posted in kilometers. The speed limit is generally 40km/h to 50km/h in cities, and 90km/h to 110km/h outside town. You must slow down to 60km/h when passing emergency vehicles (such as police cars and ambulances) stopped on the roadside with their lights flashing. Traffic in both directions must stop when stationary school buses flash their red lights – this means that children are getting off and on.

Turning right at red lights after coming to a full stop is permitted in all provinces. The only exceptions are at intersections where road signs prohibit such turns, and on the island of MontrГ©al, where turning right without a green light is always a no-no. There seems to be a national propensity for running red lights, however, so don’t take your вЂ˜right of way’ at intersections for granted. Tailgating is also a frequent annoyance; always exercise discretion and try not to provoke road rage.

Driving while talking on a cell phone is (still) legal anywhere except Newfoundland and Labrador. Radar detectors are not allowed in Québec, Ontario, Manitoba, and the Yukon and Northwest Territories. If you’re caught driving with a radar detector, even one that isn’t being operated, you could receive a fine of $1000 and your device may be confiscated.

The highest permissible blood-alcohol level for drivers is 0.08%.


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HITCHING & RIDE-SHARING

Hitching is never entirely safe in any country and we don’t recommend it. That said, in remote and rural areas in Canada it is not uncommon to see people thumbing for a ride. If you do decide to hitch, understand that you are taking a small but potentially serious risk. Remember that it’s safer to travel in pairs and let someone know where you are planning to go.

If you’re in a big city, use public transport to get you out to a major highway. Not only do your chances for pick-up increase, but you also avoid running into trouble with the police (hitchhiking is illegal in some cities, as well as in the provinces of Nova Scotia and New Brunswick). Roadside stops, smaller roads and the beginning of highway on-ramps are the best places to stick out that thumb. Start early in the day, especially when hoping to log long distances, and avoid getting stranded at all costs; Canadian nights are cold at most times of the year, and bugs can drive you mad. Finally, when a car stops, ask the driver where he or she is headed and use the time to look over the car and get a sense of the person. If your gut tells you that you’ve met a potential weirdo, decline the ride (pretending that you’re actually headed in the opposite direction and were mistakenly standing on the wrong side of the road is a good excuse).

Ride-share services offer an alternative to hitching. Autotaxi (www.autotaxi.com) is a free web-based bulletin board for ride-sharing within Canada and to the USA. You can advertise a ride yourself or make arrangements with drivers going to your destinations. In QuГ©bec, AllГґ Stop (www.allostop.com) does much the same (Click here).


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LOCAL TRANSPORTATION

Bicycle

Cycling is a popular means of getting around during the warmer months and many cities have hundreds of kilometers of dedicated bike paths. Bicycles may often be taken on public transportation at certain times of day. Rental companies are listed throughout this book. Click here and Click here for more on cycling in Canada.

Bus

Buses are the most ubiquitous form of public transportation, and practically all towns have their own systems. Most are commuter oriented, and offer only limited or no services in the evenings and on weekends.

Metro

Toronto, Montréal and Edmonton are the only Canadian cities that have subway systems. Vancouver’s version is mostly an above-ground monorail. Route maps are posted in all stations, and you can pick up a printed copy from the stationmaster or ticket office. The frequency of services fluctuates with demand, with more trains during commuter hours than, say, in the middle of the day.

Taxi

Most of the main cities have taxis, which are detailed in the Getting Around sections throughout this book. Taxis are usually metered, with a flag-fall fee of roughly $2.70 and a per-kilometer charge around $1.75. Drivers expect a tip of between 10% and 15%. Taxis can be flagged down or ordered by phone.


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TOURS

Tour companies are another way to get around this great big country. We’ve listed several in the Tours sections for destinations throughout this book. Reliable companies operating in multiple provinces across Canada include the following:



Arctic Odysseys (206-325-1977, 800-574-3021; www.arcticodysseys.com) Experience Arctic Canada close up on tours chasing the northern lights in the Northwest Territories, heli-skiing on Baffin Island or polar-bear spotting on Hudson Bay.

Backroads (510-527-1555, 800-462-2848; www.backroads.com) Guided and self-guided bicycle tours in the Rockies, the Gulf Islands, British Columbia, Nova Scotia and on Prince Edward Island.

Elderhostel (800-454-5768; www.elderhostel.org) Nonprofit organization offers study tours in nearly all provinces for active people over 55, including train trips, cruises, and bus and walking tours.

Moose Travel Network (in eastern Canada 416-504-7514, 888-816-6673, in western Canada 604-777-9905, 888-244-6673; www.moosenetwork.com) Operates backpacker-type tours in small buses throughout British Columbia, Alberta, QuГ©bec and Ontario. The two- to 10-day trips hit Whistler, Banff, Jasper, Calgary, Toronto and MontrГ©al, among others, and you can jump on or off anywhere along the route. In winter, various skiing and snowboarding packages are available.

Nahanni River Adventures (867-668-3180, 800-297-6927; www.nahanni.com) Operates rafting and kayaking expeditions in the Yukon, British Columbia and Alaska, including trips on the Firth, Alsek and Babine Rivers, as well as down the Tatshenshini-Alsek watershed.

Routes to Learning (613-530-2222, 866-745-1690; www.routestolearning.ca) From bird-watching in the Rockies to trekking around QuГ©bec City to walking in the footsteps of Vikings on Newfoundland, this nonprofit group has dozens of educational tours throughout Canada.

Salty Bear Adventure Tours (902-202-3636, 888-425-2327; www.saltybear.ca) Backpacker-oriented van tours through the Maritimes with jump-on/jump-off flexibility. There’s a two-day circuit around Nova Scotia, or a more stimulating four-day route into Cape Breton and beyond.

Trek America (in USA 800-221-0596, in UK 0870-444-8735; www.trekamerica.com) Active camping, hiking and canoeing tours in small groups, geared primarily for people between 18 and 38, although some are open to all ages.




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TRAIN

VIA Rail (888-842-7245; www.viarail.ca) operates most of Canada’s intercity and transcontinental passenger trains, linking most of the major cities and about 450 smaller communities along 14,000km of track. The network does not extend to Newfoundland, Prince Edward Island and Canada’s Northern territories. In some remote parts of the country, such as Churchill in Manitoba, trains provide the only overland access.

Rail service is most efficient in southern Ontario and southern QuГ©bec. Many trains connect MontrГ©al and Toronto, which are both major hubs with service to many other communities. From MontrГ©al, there are trains bound for Ottawa, QuГ©bec City, JonquiГЁre and the GaspГ© Peninsula. Communities served from Toronto include Windsor, London, Kingston, Niagara Falls, Sarnia and White River.

For a complete train schedule, check the website or pick up the National Timetable booklet at any VIA Rail station. Most train stations have left-luggage offices. Smoking is prohibited on many trains, and is restricted to designated areas on others. There are snack services on most routes, and some trains have dining cars (some tickets even include meals).

Train buffs should also check out Canada by Rail (www.canadabyrail.ca), an excellent portal packed with information on regional excursion trains, railroad museums and historical train stations.

Classes

On VIA Rail, fares are lowest in comfort class, which is offered on all trains, and buys you a fairly basic, if indeed quite comfortable, reclining seat with a headrest. Blankets and pillows are provided for overnight travel.

On trains operating in southern Ontario and QuГ©bec, you can upgrade to the VIA 1 class, where seats are more spacious and have outlets for plugging in laptops or other devices; tickets also include a meal. On some routes, wireless high-speed internet access is available.

For overnight travel, VIA offers various sleeping-car classes, including compartments with upper or lower pullout berths, and private single, double or triple roomettes. Fares usually include access to a shower and the sightseeing car, and sometimes meals as well.

Costs

Taking the train is more expensive than the bus, but most people find it a more comfortable way to travel. Thanks to numerous special deals, you rarely have to pay full fare. Round-trip tickets are cheaper than one-way fares, and buying tickets five days in advance can yield 30% to 40% savings. Students save with an ISIC card Click here, though the savings has mostly to do with flexibility (ie the ability to make last-minute bookings and no-fee ticket changes). Seniors over 60 can shave 10% off the price of regular tickets. Children aged between two and 11 pay half of adult fares. See VIA Rail’s website for further promotions and vacation packages.

Long-Distance Routes

VIA Rail’s longest continuous route travels between Toronto and Vancouver, a stretch covered by the Canadian, so named in memory of Canadian Pacific Railway’s original route. It even looks like the 1950s stainless-steel classic, complete with the two-story windowed вЂ˜dome’ car – prime for sightseeing. On its three-day journey, the train crosses the northern Ontario lake country, and ploughs through the western plains via Winnipeg and Saskatoon, before reaching Jasper in the craggy Rockies, and then on to Vancouver. There are three departures weekly in both directions year-round. Fares vary widely by season and comfort level. In July, one-way tickets start at $597 for a reclining seat, but zoom to $2075 for a single room; an upper berth costs about $1376, including taxes. For the same trip in November, prices drop to $454, $1308 and $897 respectively.

If you want to cross the entire country, hop on the overnight Ocean in Halifax, then change in MontrГ©al for the train bound for Toronto, where you can catch the Canadian. Of course, you can also start your trip in Vancouver and work your way east. In either direction, a cross-country trip can be very pleasant and relaxing, particularly if you have your own room. For travel during the summer months you should book well ahead.

Other long-distance trains include the Hudson Bay, which travels from the prairie to the subarctic – Winnipeg to the polar-bear hangout of Churchill on Hudson Bay. Click here for details.

In the west, the Skeena is an all-daylight route chugging from Jasper, Alberta, to coastal Prince Rupert, British Columbia, in two days, with an overnight stop in Prince George (you must make your own hotel reservations). Seats cost about $200 in comfort class. From May through September only, you can travel in Totem Class ($635), which includes meals and access to the glass-domed sightseeing car.

On Vancouver Island, British Columbia, the Malahat carves through magnificent countryside from Victoria to Courtenay once daily in each direction. The entire trip lasts 4½ hours, but you’re free to get off and back on as many times as you’d like. The cheapest fare is $49.

There are several privately run regional train companies that offer additional rail-touring opportunities:



Algoma Central Railway Access to northern Ontario wilderness areas.

Ontario Northland Operates the Northlander from Toronto to Cochrane in northern Ontario and the seasonal Polar Bear Express from Cochrane to Moosonee on Hudson Bay.

Rocky Mountaineer Railtours Gape at Canadian Rockies scenery on swanky trains between Vancouver, Kamloops and Calgary.

White Pass & Yukon Route Gorgeous route paralleling the original White Pass trail from Whitehorse, Yukon, to Fraser, British Columbia.



Reservations

Tickets and train passes are available for purchase online, by phone, at VIA Rail stations and from many travel agents. Seat reservations are highly recommended, especially in summer, on weekends and around holidays. During peak season, some of the most popular sleeping arrangements sell out months in advance, especially on long-distance trains such as the Canadian. The Hudson Bay often books solid during polar-bear season (late September to early November). Booking early gives you the best chance of snagging fare discounts.

Train Passes

If you’re going to ride the rails a lot, a train pass may be the ticket to savings. As a passholder, you must still obtain a ticket for each leg of your trip. Make seat reservations early, since only a limited number of seats are set aside for passholders on each train. Prices quoted are for travel in comfort class, but upgrades are available for a surcharge.

The Canrailpass buys 12 days of travel within a 30-day period from the first day of travel. During peak season (June to mid-October), passes cost about $837/753 per adult/child, ISIC cardholder, or senior over 60. You can also buy up to three extra days at $71/64 per day. The rest of the year prices drop to $523/471, with extensions costing $45/41 per day.

If you’ll be limiting your exploration to southern Ontario and Québec, the Corridorpass may come in handy. It offers unlimited travel between Québec City and Windsor (including Montréal, Toronto and Niagara) during 10 consecutive days and costs $299/269 in comfort class.

For those who have built their itinerary around Canada and the USA, the North America Rail Pass may be a good buy. It allows unlimited travel in both countries for 30 consecutive days and costs $1149/1034 from June to mid-October and $815/734 at all other times. Amtrak is the US equivalent of VIA Rail; many Canadian train stations sell Amtrak passes and offer information on its routes (Click here).




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Health



Contents

Before You Go

Insurance

Internet Resources

Medical Checklist

In Canada

Availability & Cost of Health Care

Infectious Diseases

Environmental Hazards

Canada encompasses an extraordinary range of climates and terrains, from the freezing heights of the Rockies to the sweltering summers of the prairies. Because of the high level of hygiene here, infectious diseases will not be a significant concern for most travelers.


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BEFORE YOU GO

INSURANCE

Canada offers some of the finest health care in the world. The problem is that, unless you are a Canadian citizen, it can be prohibitively expensive. It’s essential to purchase travel health insurance if your regular policy doesn’t cover you when you’re abroad.

Bring any medications you may need clearly labeled in their original containers. A signed, dated letter from your physician that describes all your medical conditions and medications, including generic names, is also a good idea.

If your health insurance does not cover you for medical expenses incurred abroad, it is worth considering taking out supplemental insurance. Check the website of Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/travel_services/insurance/travel_insurance.cfm) for more information. Find out in advance if your insurance plan will make payments directly to providers or reimburse you later for overseas health expenditures. For additional information, Click here.


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INTERNET RESOURCES

There is a wealth of travel health advice available on the internet. The World Health Organization publishes a superb book called International Travel and Health, which is revised annually and is available online at no cost at www.who.int/ith. Another website of general interest is MD Travel Health (www.mdtravelhealth.com), which provides complete travel health recommendations for every country, updated daily, also at no cost.

It’s usually a good idea to consult your government’s travel health website before departure, if one is available.



Australia (www.smarttraveller.gov.au)

United Kingdom (www.dh.gov.uk/policyandguidance/healthadvicefortravellers/fs/en)

United States (www.cdc.gov/travel/)




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MEDICAL CHECKLIST



acetaminophen (eg Tylenol) or aspirin

anti-inflammatory drugs (eg ibuprofen)

antihistamines (for hay fever and allergic reactions)

antibacterial ointment (eg Neosporin) for cuts and abrasions

steroid cream or cortisone (for poison ivy and other allergic rashes)

bandages, gauze, gauze rolls

adhesive or paper tape

scissors, safety pins, tweezers

thermometer

pocket knife

DEET-containing insect repellent for the skin

permethrin-containing insect spray for clothing, tents and bed nets

sunblock

motion-sickness medication




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IN CANADA

AVAILABILITY & COST OF HEALTH CARE

For immediate medical assistance in most provinces and territories, call 911. See the Yukon, Northest Territories and Nunavut chapters for their emergency numbers.

In general, if you have a medical emergency, the best bet is to find the nearest hospital and go to its emergency room. If the problem isn’t urgent, you can call a nearby hospital and ask for a referral to a local physician, which is usually cheaper than a trip to the emergency room.



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RECOMMENDED VACCINATIONS

No special vaccines are required or recommended for travel to Canada. All travelers should be up to date on routine immunizations, listed below.





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Pharmacies are abundant, but you may find that some medications that are available over the counter in your home country require a prescription in Canada, and if you don’t have insurance to cover the cost of prescriptions, they can be shockingly expensive.


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INFECTIOUS DISEASES

In addition to more common ailments, there are several infectious diseases that are unknown or uncommon outside North America. Most are acquired by mosquito or tick bites, or environmental exposure.

Giardiasis

This parasitic infection of the small intestine occurs throughout North America and the rest of the world. Symptoms may include nausea, bloating, cramps and diarrhea, and may last for weeks. To protect yourself from giardia, you should avoid drinking directly from lakes, ponds, streams and rivers, which may be contaminated by animal or human feces. The infection can also be transmitted from person to person if proper hand washing is not performed. Giardiasis is easily diagnosed by a stool test and is readily treated with antibiotics.

Lyme Disease

Most documented cases of Lyme disease occur in the southern parts of Canada, especially in areas bordering the USA. Lyme disease is transmitted by deer ticks, which are only 1mm to 2mm long. Most cases occur in late spring and summer. The first symptom is usually an expanding red rash that is often pale in the center, known as a bull’s-eye rash. However, in many cases, no rash is observed. Flu-like symptoms are common, including fever, headache, joint pain, body aches and malaise. When the infection is treated promptly with an appropriate antibiotic, usually doxycycline or amoxicillin, the cure rate is high. Luckily, since the tick must be attached for 36 hours or more to transmit Lyme disease, most cases can be prevented by performing a thorough tick check after you’ve been outdoors (Click here). The US-based Centers for Disease Control and Prevention has an informative website about Lyme disease (www.cdc.gov/ncidod/dvbid/lyme).

Rabies

Rabies is a viral infection of the brain and spinal cord that is almost always fatal. The rabies virus is carried in the saliva of infected animals and is typically transmitted through an animal bite (Click here), though contamination of any break in the skin with infected saliva may result in rabies. In Canada, most cases of human rabies are related to exposure to bats. Rabies may also be contracted from raccoons, skunks, foxes and unvaccinated cats and dogs.

If there is any possibility, however small, that you have been exposed to rabies, you should seek preventative treatment, which consists of rabies immune globulin and rabies vaccine and is quite safe. In particular, any contact with a bat should be discussed with health authorities, because bats have small teeth and may not leave obvious bite marks.

Severe Acute Respiratory Syndrome (SARS)

In 2003 the world’s attention was drawn to the outbreak of a new respiratory illness that became known as SARS. Since the outbreak, there have been just over 300 probable or suspect cases of SARS reported in Canada, resulting in 24 confirmed deaths. The majority of these cases were reported in Ontario, mostly in the greater Toronto area. At the time of writing, SARS appeared to have been brought under control in Canada, and the World Health Organization did not recommend any travel restrictions, as the risk of contracting SARS was extremely low. For the latest on SARS, go to the website of the Public Health Agency of Canada (www.phac-aspc.gc.ca/sars-sras-gen).

The symptoms of SARS are identical to many other respiratory infections, particularly influenza. Symptoms include a high fever over 38В°C and a cough, often accompanied by chills, headaches, muscle aches, a sore throat and diarrhea. The case definition of SARS is a person with fever and cough who has traveled to an infected area or been in close contact with an infected person within the previous 10 days. There is no specific quick test for SARS, but certain blood test and chest X-ray results offer support for the diagnosis. There is no specific treatment available and death from respiratory failure occurs in around 10% of patients. Fortunately it appears that it is not as easy to catch SARS as was initially thought. The disease is spread through close personal contact with someone already infected with the SARS coronavirus. Wearing masks has a limited effect and is not generally recommended.

West Nile Virus

Cases of West Nile virus were unknown in Canada until a few years ago, but have now been reported in many provinces, including Ontario, QuГ©bec, Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, Saskatchewan, Manitoba and Alberta. The virus is transmitted by Culex mosquitoes, which are active in late summer and early fall and generally bite after dusk (also see right). Most infections are mild or asymptomatic, but the virus may infect the central nervous system leading to fever, headache, confusion, lethargy, coma and sometimes death. There is no treatment for West Nile virus. For the latest update on the areas affected by West Nile, go to the website of the Public Health Agency of Canada (www.phac-aspc.gc.ca/wn-no).


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ENVIRONMENTAL HAZARDS

Altitude Sickness

Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS), aka вЂ˜Altitude Sickness,’ may develop in those who ascend rapidly to altitudes greater than 2500m. Being physically fit offers no protection. Those who have experienced AMS in the past are prone to future episodes. The risk increases with faster ascents, higher altitudes and greater exertion. Symptoms may include headaches, nausea, vomiting, dizziness, malaise, insomnia and loss of appetite. Severe cases may be complicated by fluid in the lungs (high-altitude pulmonary edema) or swelling of the brain (high-altitude cerebral edema).

The best treatment for AMS is descent. If you are exhibiting symptoms, do not ascend. If symptoms are severe or persistent, descend immediately. When traveling to high altitudes, it’s also important to avoid overexertion, eat light meals and abstain from alcohol. If your symptoms are more than mild or don’t resolve promptly, see a doctor. Altitude sickness should be taken seriously; it can be life-threatening when severe.

Bites & Stings

MOSQUITO BITES

When traveling in areas where West Nile virus (left) or other mosquito-borne illnesses have been reported, keep covered (wear long sleeves, long pants, hats, and shoes rather than sandals) and apply a good insect repellent, preferably one containing DEET, to exposed skin and clothing. In general, adults and children over 12 should use preparations containing 25% to 35% DEET, which usually lasts about six hours. Children between two and 12 years of age should use preparations containing no more than 10% DEET, applied sparingly, which will usually last about three hours. Neurologic toxicity has been reported from DEET, especially in children, but appears to be extremely uncommon and is generally related to overuse. DEET-containing compounds should not be used on children under age two.



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ALTERNATIVE MEDICINE

Canadian health food stores and many regular groceries abound with so-called вЂ˜natural’ remedies. These are a few of the more successful ones, in our opinion. They’re not guaranteed, of course, but they may work. You never know…



Problem Treatment

jet lag melatonin

motion sickness ginger

mosquito bite oil of eucalyptus



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Insect repellents containing certain botanical products, including oil of eucalyptus and soybean oil, are effective but last only 1ВЅ to two hours. Products based on citronella are not effective. For additional protection, you can apply permethrin to clothing, shoes, tents and bed nets. Permethrin treatments are safe and remain effective for at least two weeks, even when items are laundered. Permethrin should not be applied directly to the skin.

TICK BITES

Ticks are parasitic arachnids that may be present in brush, forest and grasslands, where hikers often get them on their legs or in their boots. Adult ticks suck blood from hosts by burrowing into the skin and can carry infections such as Lyme disease Click here. To protect yourself from tick bites, follow the same precautions as for mosquitoes (see opposite), except that boots are preferable to shoes and pants should be tucked in.

Always check your body for ticks after walking through high grass or thickly forested areas. If ticks are found unattached, they can simply be brushed off. If a tick is found attached, press down around the tick’s head with tweezers, grab the head and gently pull upwards – do not twist it. (If no tweezers are available, use your fingers, but protect them from contamination with a piece of tissue or paper.) Do not rub oil, alcohol or petroleum jelly on it. If you get sick in the following couple of weeks, consult a doctor.

MAMMAL BITES

Do not attempt to pet, handle or feed any mammal, with the exception of domestic animals known to be free of any infectious disease. Most animal injuries are directly related to a person’s attempt to touch or feed the animal.

Any bite or scratch by a mammal, including bats, should be promptly and thoroughly cleansed with large amounts of soap and water, followed by the application of an antiseptic such as iodine or alcohol. The local health authorities should be contacted immediately for possible post-exposure rabies treatment, whether or not you’ve been immunized against rabies Click here. It may also be advisable to start an antibiotic, since wounds caused by animal bites and scratches frequently become infected.

SNAKE BITES

There are several varieties of venomous snakes in Canada, but unlike those in other countries they do not cause instantaneous death, and antivenins are available. First aid is to place a light constricting bandage over the bite, keep the wounded part below the level of the heart and move it as little as possible. Stay calm and get to a medical facility as soon as possible. Bring the dead snake for identification if you can, but don’t risk being bitten again. Do not use the mythic вЂ˜cut an X and suck out the venom’ trick; this causes more damage to snakebite victims than the bites themselves.

SPIDER BITES

Although there are many species of spiders in Canada, the only ones that cause significant human illness are the black widow and hobo spiders. The black widow is black or brown in color, measuring about 15mm in body length, with a shiny top, fat body and distinctive red or orange hourglass figure on its underside. It’s found throughout Canada, usually in barns, woodpiles, sheds, harvested crops and the bowls of outdoor toilets. Hobo spiders are found chiefly in western Canada.

If bitten by a black widow, you should apply ice or cold packs and go immediately to the nearest emergency room. Complications of a black widow bite may include muscle spasms, breathing difficulties and high blood pressure. The milder bite of a hobo spider typically causes a large, inflamed wound, sometimes associated with fever and chills. If bitten, apply ice and see a physician.

Cold

Cold exposure may be a significant problem, especially in the northern regions of the country. To prevent hypothermia, keep all body surfaces covered, including the head and neck. Synthetic materials such as Gore-Tex and Thinsulate provide excellent insulation. Because the body loses heat faster when wet, stay dry at all times. Change inner garments promptly when they become moist. Keep active, but get enough rest. Consume plenty of food and water. Be especially sure not to have any alcohol. Caffeine and tobacco should also be avoided.

Watch out for the вЂ˜Umbles’ – stumbles, mumbles, fumbles and grumbles – which are important signs of impending hypothermia. If someone appears to be developing hypothermia, you should insulate them from the ground, protect them from the wind, remove wet clothing or cover them with a vapor barrier such as a plastic bag, and transport them immediately to a warm environment and a medical facility. Warm fluids (but not coffee or tea – noncaffeinated herbal teas are OK) may be given if the person is alert enough to swallow.

Heat

Dehydration is the main contributor to heat exhaustion. Symptoms include feeling weak, headache, irritability, nausea or vomiting, sweaty skin, a fast, weak pulse and a normal or slightly elevated body temperature. Treatment involves getting out of the heat and/or sun, fanning the victim and applying cool, wet cloths to the skin, laying the victim flat with their legs raised and rehydrating with water containing a quarter of a teaspoon of salt per liter. Recovery is usually rapid but it’s common to feel weak for some days afterwards.

Heatstroke is a serious medical emergency. Symptoms come on suddenly and include weakness, nausea, a temperature over 41В°C, dizziness, confusion, loss of coordination, fits and eventually collapse and loss of consciousness. Seek medical help and commence cooling by getting the person out of the heat, removing their clothes, fanning them and applying cool wet cloths or ice to their body, especially to the groin and armpits.




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Language



Contents

Canadian English

Canadian French

Pronunciation

Be Polite!

Gender

Accommodations

Conversation & Essentials

Directions

Emergencies

Health

Language Difficulties

Numbers

Paperwork

Question Words

Shopping & Services

Time & Dates

Transportation

Travel with Children



English and French are the two official languages of Canada. You’ll notice both on highway signs, maps, tourist brochures and all types of packaging. In the west of Canada, French isn’t as prevalent. Conversely, English can be hard to find in Québec. Indeed, road signs and visitor information there will often be in French only. Outside Montréal and Québec City, the use of some French, or your own version of sign language, will be necessary at least some of the time.

Many immigrants use their mother tongues, as do some groups of First Nations and Inuit. In some aboriginal communities, though, it’s now only older members who retain their original indigenous language. Few non-indigenous Canadians speak any First Nations or Inuit language, but some words such as вЂ˜igloo,’ вЂ˜parka,’ вЂ˜muskeg’ and вЂ˜kayak’ are commonly used.

The Inuit languages are interesting for their specialization and use of many words for what appears to be the same thing. The best known example is the 20 or so words for вЂ˜snow,’ each relating different consistencies and textures.


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CANADIAN ENGLISH

Canada inherited English primarily from the British settlers of the early and mid-1800s. This form of British English remains the basis of Canadian English. There are some pronunciation differences – Britons say вЂ˜clark’ for clerk, Canadians say вЂ˜clurk.’ Grammatical differences are few. Canadian vocabulary has been augmented considerably by the need for new words in a new land, the influence of the aboriginal languages and the heritage of the pioneering French.

Canada has never developed a series of easily detectable dialects such as those of England, Germany or even the USA. However, there are some regional variations in idiom and pronunciation. In Newfoundland, for example, some people speak with an accent reminiscent of the west country of England (Devon and Cornwall) or Ireland, and some use words such as вЂ˜screech’ (rum) and вЂ˜shooneen’ (coward).

The spoken English of the Atlantic Provinces, too, has inflections not heard in the west, and in the Ottawa Valley you’ll hear a slightly different sound again, due mainly to the large numbers of Irish who settled there in the mid-1800s. In British Columbia some expressions reflect that province’s history; a word like вЂ˜leaverite’ (a worthless mineral) is a prospecting word derived from the phrase вЂ˜Leave ’er right there.’

Canadian English has been strongly influenced by the USA, particularly via the mass media and the historic use of US textbooks and dictionaries in schools. Most spellings follow British English, such as вЂ˜centre,’ вЂ˜harbour’ and вЂ˜cheque,’ but there are some exceptions like вЂ˜tire’ (rather than вЂ˜tyre’) and вЂ˜aluminum’ (rather than вЂ˜aluminium’). US spelling is becoming more common, to the consternation of some. Perhaps the best known difference between US and Canadian English is in the pronunciation of the last letter of the alphabet. In the USA it’s pronounced вЂ˜zee,’ while in Canada it’s pronounced вЂ˜zed.’

Canadian English as a whole has also developed a few of its own distinctive idioms and expressions. The most recognizable is the interrogative вЂ˜eh?,’ which sometimes seems to appear at the end of every spoken sentence. Although to many nonв€’North Americans Canadians and Americans may sound the same, there are real differences. Canadian pronunciation of вЂ˜ou’ is the most notable of these – вЂ˜out’ and вЂ˜about’ sound more like вЂ˜oat’ and вЂ˜aboat.’

Canadian English has also added to the richness of the global English language, with words like вЂ˜kerosene’ (paraffin), вЂ˜puck’ (from ice hockey) and вЂ˜bushed’ (exhausted). вЂ˜Moose’ and вЂ˜muskeg’ come from anglicised aboriginal words.

For those wishing to delve deeper into the topic, try the excellent Oxford Dictionary of Canadian English.


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CANADIAN FRENCH

The French spoken in Canada is essentially the same as what you’d hear in France. There are differences, however, just as there are between the English of New Zealand and the English of Australia. Although many English (and most French) students in QuГ©bec are still taught the French of France, the local tongue is known as вЂ˜QuГ©becois’ or joual. While many around the world schooled in Parisian French would say Quelle heure est-il? for вЂ˜What time is it?,’ on the streets of QuГ©bec you’re likely to hear Y’est quelle heure? QuГ©becois people will have no problem understanding more formal French.

Other differences between European French and the Québec version worth remembering (because you don’t want to go hungry!) are the terms for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Rather than petit déjeuner, déjeuner and diner you’re likely to see and hear déjeuner, diner and souper.

If you have any car trouble, you’ll be happy to know that English terms are generally used for parts, although the word char (pronounced вЂ˜shar’) for car may be heard. Hitchhiking is known not as auto stop but as le pousse (the thumb).

Announcers and broadcasters on QuГ©bec TV and radio tend to speak a more refined, European style of French, as does the upper class. Visitors to the country without much everyday French-speaking experience will have the most luck understanding them. Despite all this, the preservation of French in QuГ©bec is a primary concern and fuels the separatist movement.

New Brunswick is, perhaps surprisingly, the only officially bilingual province. French is widely spoken, particularly in the north and east. Again, it is somewhat different from the French of QuГ©bec. Nova Scotia and Manitoba also have significant French-speaking populations, and there are pockets in most other provinces.

The following is a short guide to some French words and phrases that may be useful for the traveler. QuГ©bec French employs a lot of English words; this may make understanding and speaking the language a little easier.

For words and phrases related to food and dining, Click here. For a far more comprehensive guide to the language, get a copy of Lonely Planet’s French Phrasebook.


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PRONUNCIATION

Most letters in the French alphabet are pronounced more or less the same as their English counterparts; a few that may cause confusion are listed below. The combinations un and on in the pronunciation guides are nasal sounds – the вЂ˜n’ is not pronounced; zh is pronounced as the вЂ˜s’ in вЂ˜measure.’




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BE POLITE!

You’ll find that any attempt to communicate in French will be very much appreciated. Even if the only sentence you can muster is Pardon, madame/monsieur/mademoiselle, parlez-vous anglais? (Excuse me, madam/sir/miss, do you speak English?), you’re sure to be more warmly received than if you blindly address a stranger in English.

An important distinction is made in French between tu and vous, which both mean вЂ˜you’; tu is only used when addressing people you know well, children or animals. If you’re addressing an adult who isn’t a personal friend, vous should be used unless the person invites you to use tu. In general, younger people insist less on this distinction between polite and informal, and you will find that in many cases they use tu from the beginning of an acquaintance.


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GENDER

All nouns in French are either masculine or feminine and adjectives reflect the gender of the noun they modify. The feminine form of many nouns and adjectives is indicated by a silent e added to the masculine form, as in ami and amie (the masculine and feminine for вЂ˜friend’).

In the following phrases both masculine and feminine forms have been indicated where necessary. The masculine form comes first and is separated from the feminine by a slash. The gender of a noun is often indicated by a preceding article: вЂ˜the/a/some,’ le/un/du (m), la/une/de la (f); or one of the possessive adjectives, вЂ˜my/your/his/her,’ mon/ton/son (m), ma/ta/sa (f). With French, unlike English, the possessive adjective agrees in number and gender with the thing in question: вЂ˜his/her mother’ is sa mГЁre.


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ACCOMMODATIONS





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CONVERSATION & ESSENTIALS





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DIRECTIONS





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SIGNS





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EMERGENCIES





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HEALTH





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LANGUAGE DIFFICULTIES




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NUMBERS





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PAPERWORK




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QUESTION WORDS




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SHOPPING & SERVICES





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TIME & DATES





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TRANSPORTATION

Public Transportation





Private Transportation





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ROAD SIGNS





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TRAVEL WITH CHILDREN





Also available from Lonely Planet: French Phrasebook


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GLOSSARY



Aboriginal – peoples living in Canada before European colonization (First Nations and Inuit) and the Métis

Acadians – the first settlers from France who lived in Nova Scotia

Allophones – people living in Québec whose first language is neither French nor English

Anglophones – people who speak English as their first or only language

Atlantic Provinces – a region that includes Newfoundland, Nova Scotia, Prince Edward Island and New Brunswick

ATV – all-terrain vehicle, or four-wheel-drive vehicle

aurora borealis – charged particles from the sun that are trapped in the earth’s magnetic field and appear as other-worldly, colored, waving beams; also called the northern lights





B&B – bed-and-breakfast

backcountry site – a primitive campsite with few facilities, often found in national or provincial parks

badlands – a barren, arid region of southern Alberta with unusual features caused by erosion; the rocks in such areas often contain prehistoric fossils

BC – British Columbia

Black Loyalists – slaves of African origin freed by the British to fight against the USA during the American Revolution, many of whom later settled in Nova Scotia

boreal – refers to the Canadian North and its character, as in the boreal forest or the boreal wind





calèche – horse-drawn carriages that can be taken around parts of Montréal and Québec City

Canadian Shield – a plateau of rock formed 2.5 billion years ago that covers much of the Northern region of Canada; also known as the Precambrian or Laurentian Shield

ceilidh (kay-lee) – a Gaelic word meaning an informal gathering for song, dance and story; sometimes known as a house party; may refer to any public performance where music is played and is especially popular in Prince Edward Island and Nova Scotia

CFL – Canadian Football League

coulees – gulches, usually dry

Cowichan – an indigenous people originally from the Lake Cowichan area on Vancouver Island; also the name of the hand-knitted, 100% wool sweaters they produce

Cow Town – nickname for Calgary

CPR – Canadian Pacific Railway

Cree – an Aboriginal people, and their language





Dominion of Canada – historical name of Canada assumed at the time of Confederation in 1867

Doukhobours – an unorthodox Russian Christian sect, some of whom settled in Saskatchewan and BC during the 19th century





First Nations – most groups of Aboriginal peoples in Canada, except Inuit and Métis

Francophones – people who speak French as their first or only language





gasoline – petrol, known as gas or fuel; mostly sold unleaded in Canada

gîte du passant – a term often used in Québec for B&Bs

Group of Seven – a group of celebrated Canadian landscape painters from the 1920s

GST – 6% goods and services tax levied on most purchases throughout Canada





hoodoo – distinctive vertical pillar shape carved into a rock face by rainfall and glacial erosion, mainly found in the badlands regions of southern Alberta

hookup – at campgrounds, refers to RV connections for electricity, water and sewage

HST – Harmonized Sales Tax; combination of GST and PST totaling 14%, used in New Brunswick, Nova Scotia and Newfoundland and Labrador

Hudson’s Bay Company (Compagnie de la Baie d’Hudson) – an English enterprise created in 1670 to exploit the commercial potential of the Hudson Bay and its waterways





icefield – a large, level expanse of floating ice

Innu – First Nations people living in eastern Québec and Labrador and comprising the Montagnais and Naskapi subgroups

Inside Passage – sea route from the Alaskan Panhandle to Washington state that runs between mainland BC and the chain of islands off the coast

Inuit – Aboriginal people descended from the Thule and residing primarily in Nunavut and Arctic Québec

Inukshuk – stone cairn mimicking the human form, originally built by Inuit as landmarks or to herd prey toward waiting hunters

Inuktitut – language of the Inuit people

Inuvialuit – Western Artic Inuit people

Inuvialuktun – language of the Inuvialuit





Klondike – region along the Klondike River in the Yukon Territory where the discovery of gold in 1897 led to the Klondike Gold Rush

Labour Day – public holiday on the first Monday in September; end of the summer holiday season

Left Coast – sometimes applied to coastal BC for the perceived left-wing, eccentric nature of its residents

l’Estrie – Québecois term for the Cantons de l’Est (Eastern Townships), a former Loyalist region southeast of Montréal toward the US border

loonie – Canada’s one-dollar coin, which depicts a loon on one side

Lower Mainland – common term for the southwestern part of BC, including metropolitan Vancouver

Loyalists – British North American colonists who remained loyal to the British crown during the American Revolution; many settled in Ontario and Québec; also known as United Empire Loyalists





Maritime provinces – also known as the Maritimes, this group includes three provinces: New Brunswick, Nova Scotia and Prince Edward Island

Métis – Canadians of mixed French and First Nations ancestry

midden – archaeological term for mound or heap containing domestic refuse and thus indicating human settlement

Mi’kmaq – First Nations people living throughout the Maritime provinces, especially Nova Scotia. Also spelled micmac

Mounties – Royal Canadian Mounted Police (RCMP)

muskeg – undrained boggy land most often found in Northern Canada





névé – compacted, accumulated snow that forms the surface of the upper part of a glacier

NHL – National Hockey League

northern lights – see aurora borealis

Northwest Passage – sea route from the Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean via the Canadian Arctic

NWMP – North-West Mounted Police

NWT – Northwest Territories





Ogopogo – similar to the Loch Ness monster; thought to reside in Okanagan Lake; has never been photographed

Ojibwe – Aboriginal people living in southern Canada, primarily west of Lake Superior; also known as Ojibway or Chippewa

Old World – of European origin

outfitter – a business or store supplying outdoor

/adventure equipment, often for rent

outports – small, isolated coastal villages of Newfoundland, connected with the rest of the province by boat





PEI – Prince Edward Island

permafrost – permanently frozen subsoil that covers the far northern regions of Canada

petroglyphs – ancient paintings or carvings on rock

piastre – Québecois term for a Canadian dollar

pingo – in the far North, a huge earth-covered ice hill formed by the upward expansion of underground ice

portage – process of transporting boats and supplies overland between navigable waterways; can also refer to the overland route used

potlatch – competitive ceremonial activity among some First Nations people, traditionally involving the giving of lavish gifts in order to emphasize the wealth and status of a chief or clan; now often just refers to a wild party or revel

powwow – a festive social gathering of Aboriginal people, often involving singing, dancing and general merriment

PST – Provincial Sales Tax; ranges from 7% to 10%





Québecois – the local tongue of Québec, where the vast majority of the population is of French descent; the term also refers to the residents of Québec, although it is applied only to Francophones, not English-speaking Quebecers





RCMP – Royal Canadian Mounted Police; the main law-enforcement agency throughout Canada

RV – recreational vehicle (commonly a motor home), used for traveling or camping; вЂ˜caravan’ in British English





screech – a particularly strong rum once available only in Newfoundland, now widely available across Canada (but only in diluted form)

social – pay-at-the-door party with lots of beer, music and fun

spelunking – exploration and study of caves

sugar shack – the place where collected sap from maple trees is distilled in large kettles and boiled as part of the production process for maple syrup





table d’hôte – set-price meal

taiga – coniferous forests extending across much of subarctic North America and Eurasia

terrasse – patio

toonie – slang name for a Canadian two-dollar coin

trailer – in Canada and the US, a caravan or a mobile home

tundra – vast, treeless Arctic plains north of the tree line with perpetually frozen subsoil

two-four – a case of beer containing 24 bottles





United Empire Loyalists – see Loyalists





VIC – visitor information center

Victoria Day – public holiday held on the Monday before May 25; start of the summer holiday season

voyageur – a boatman employed by one of the early fur-trading companies; he could also perform the functions of a woodsman, guide, trapper or explorer





The Authors



KARLA ZIMMERMAN

Coordinating Author, Newfoundland & Labrador

During her years covering Canada coast to coast for Lonely Planet, Karla has become an Honorary Newfoundlander (with a rum-soaked certificate to prove it), an Honorary Vancouverite (with a sushi addiction to prove it), and some would say an Honorary Canadian (with a doughnut fixation to prove it). When she’s not north of the border, Karla lives in Chicago, where the doughnuts are good but not Canadian good. She writes travel features for newspapers, books, magazines and radio.




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JAMES BAINBRIDGE

QuГ©bec

The first time James reached the end of a Canadian road was on Galiano Island, while on exchange at the University of British Columbia. When Lonely Planet dispatched him to QuГ©bec, he had to drive considerably further to repeat the experience on Rte 138. In the intervening decade, he completed a literature and history degree in Glasgow, worked on magazines in London and Sydney, and contributed to Lonely Planet guides ranging from India to Ireland. His next Lonely Planet project is A Year of Festivals.




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CELESTE BRASH

Nova Scotia

вЂ˜So this is where people from Tahiti go on vacation?’ This question was asked of Celeste several times during her first and second voyages through Nova Scotia. Lighthouses and lupine are a far cry from palm trees and hibiscus, but the crisp air and wonderful people made coming back for a second research trip a joy. Satiated, she returned to her island home, husband and two children to eat mangoes instead of blueberries.



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LONELY PLANET AUTHORS

Why is our travel information the best in the world? It’s simple: our authors are independent, dedicated travelers. They don’t research using just the internet or phone, and they don’t take freebies in exchange for positive coverage. They travel widely, to all the popular spots and off the beaten track. They personally visit thousands of hotels, restaurants, cafés, bars, galleries, palaces, museums and more – and they take pride in getting all the details right, and telling it how it is. Think you can do it? Find out how at lonelyplanet.com.



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NATALIE FOLSTER

New Brunswick, Prince Edward Island

Natalie Folster was born and raised in Fredericton, New Brunswick. She got out as soon as she could. The next decade or so was spent living and working in Africa, the UK, California, New York, the Caribbean, British Columbia (BC) and Ontario before deciding that her father was right. New Brunswick really is God’s Country and one of the Earth’s special places. She now lives in Saint John, New Brunswick.




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SCOTT KENNEDY

Alberta, Saskatchewan

Growing up in Calgary, the outdoors has always played a big part in Scott’s life. As a kid, hiking and skiing matured into mountaineering, adventure racing and travel. From those adventurous pursuits, writing and photography became the means to share the stories with those not foolish enough to tag along. What’s his favorite trip? That’s easy: вЂ˜the next one.’ Scott lives in Queenstown, New Zealand were he tries to avoid nine-to-five work at all cost. For more info go to www.adventureskope.com.




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JOHN LEE

British Columbia

Born in the UK, John moved to BC to attend the University of Victoria to study utopianism in the Department of Political Science. Discovering the paucity of jobs in the utopian field, he transformed his study visa into permanent citizenship and became a full-time freelance travel writer. John is a Vancouver-based journalist since 1999 and his work has appeared in 120 publications around the world, including the Guardian, Los Angeles Times, Chicago Tribune and National Geographic Traveler. Specializing in Canadian and UK destinations, his favorite BC trek was the wintertime, way-up-north Skeena railroad.




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GRAHAM NEALE

Manitoba

While working as a cartographer for Lonely Planet, Graham had a desktop aquarium with a fish named вЂ˜Manitoba,’ so it only seemed natural to pay homage. It also seemed natural to cover one of Canada’s least-respected destinations by an unofficial expert on everything Canadian. In this second go-round he gained a whole new appreciation for July Manitoba over April Manitoba. He now fancies himself an official Manitoba expert, and between listening to Harvest and praying to Icelandic gods, enjoys stumping life-long residents with Manitoba trivia.




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BRANDON PRESSER

Ontario

Born and raised in Ottawa, Brandon was all too happy to explore the motherland. On his journey he saw eight moose, 12 NHL hockey games, took two whistle-stop trains, a bush plane, and uttered вЂ˜eh?’ 925,831 times (give or take). Brandon also traveled over 10,000km in Murray, his navy blue Hyundai, updating the Eastern Ontario, Georgian Bay & Lakelands, Ottawa and Northern Ontario sections.




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CHARLES RAWLINGS-WAY

Ontario

Charles first made Ontario’s acquaintance when he was eight, flying in from Tasmania to assess the local squirrels, swimming pools and his uncle’s croissants. He’s cultivated a quiet Toronto habit ever since, gradually shifting his focus towards baseball, bookshops and the city’s global culinary delights. A lapsed architect, underrated rock guitarist and fearless home renovator, Charles penned Lonely Planet’s Toronto city guide in 2007, and jumped at the chance to return to T.O. for this book.




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SARAH RICHARDS

QuГ©bec

Loyal to the mountains and forests of her native BC, Sarah vowed to never love another Canadian province. But when she started her undergraduate degree at McGill University, a torrid love affair with the enticing, exotic flavors of Québec threatened to break her ties with home forever. After graduation, she roamed Asia and Europe for six years, before finding her way back into the arms of Montréal. She blames the soft scents of freshly baked croissants in the wind and the sinful delights of the city’s vibrant nightlife for her betrayal.




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AARON SPITZER

Northwest Territories, Nunavut

Aaron has a thing for bad latitudes. He was raised in Indiana and at 13 took his first big trip – to Canada’s Northwest Territories. A decade later he moved to the polar regions for good, working as a kayak guide in Alaska, a newspaper editor in Antarctica and Nunavut, and a TV news producer in the Northwest Territories and the Yukon. He’s now editor of Up Here, the magazine of Canada’s North.




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RYAN VER BERKMOES

British Columbia, Yukon Territory

Lost – but not in the literal sense – on a backroad of BC or the Yukon is Ryan’s idea of real adventure. He’s been coming here for more than two decades and is happy to say he’s yet to hit a moose, although he’s seen hundreds. He’s navigated the gorgeous coastal waters, climbed a few peaks and come snout to nose with bears. He’s happy to say that should he need to flee his home in Portland, Oregon, he’d come here every time.

CONTRIBUTING AUTHORS

Bruce Dowbiggin is an award-winning sports journalist and national sports commentator based in Calgary. His columns regularly feature in the Calgary Herald. He is the author of five books on hockey and frequently hosts TV and radio programs, including for the CBC. Bruce wrote the Sports section of the Culture chapter.



Dr David Goldberg, MD completed his training in internal medicine and infectious diseases at Columbia-Presbyterian Medical Center in New York City, where he has also served as voluntary faculty. At present, he is an infectious diseases specialist in Scarsdale, New York, and the editor-in-chief of the website MDTravelHealth.com. Dr Goldberg wrote the Health chapter for this book.



Margo Pfeiff is a Montréal-based journalist and photographer who grew up in Vancouver and spends an abnormal amount of her time in the country’s north. She has worked for Canadian Geographic, the LA Times, San Francisco Chronicle and Globe and Mail, and is currently writing a book about contemporary life in Nunavut. Margo wrote the Culture text for this book.



Jennie Punter has been writing on the arts in Canada for 20 years. A trained classical pianist and reformed rock critic, she now contributes regularly on film for The Globe and Mail, Canada’s national daily newspaper, and works as a producer in documentary film and television. Jennie covered the Arts section of the Culture chapter.



Brendan Sainsbury, a displaced Brit and former resident of London, England, woke up one morning living in White Rock, BC, married to a Canadian doctor. His penchant for Canada’s national parks began in Waterton Lakes, Alberta; he then headed north to Jasper, where he recently updated the upcoming Lonely Planet guide. Brendan wrote the Canada’s National Parks chapter of this book.



Raymond Schmidt has never seen a panda, but he’s pedaled the high Alps, climbed Canary Island volcanoes and explored his Cuban lineage. But Canada always draws him back. Kayaking 40ft-high waterfalls or cycling the Arctic in winter, he’s trying to make it the rest of the way around the world. Raymond wrote the Canada Outdoors chapter for this edition.




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Behind the Scenes



* * *





THIS BOOK

THANKS

OUR READERS

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS



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THIS BOOK

For this 10th edition of Canada, Karla Zimmerman coordinated a stellar author team (see The Authors, Click here). This guidebook was commissioned in Lonely Planet’s Oakland, California, office and produced by the following:



Commissioning Editors Emily K Wolman

Coordinating Editor Chris Girdler

Coordinating Cartographer Amanda Sierp

Coordinating Layout Designer Jessica Rose

Managing Editor Imogen Bannister

Managing Cartographer Alison Lyall

Managing Layout Designer Celia Wood

Assisting Editors Carolyn Bain, Michelle Bennett, Janice Bird, Margedd Heliosz, Diana Saad, Simon Williamson, Helen Yeates

Assisting Cartographers Anna Clarkson, Tadhgh Knaggs, Joanne Luke, Jody Whiteoak

Cover Designer Marika Mercer

Project Managers Bronwyn Hicks, Glenn van der Knijff

Language Content Coordinator Quentin Frayne





Thanks to David Connolly, Ryan Evans, Jennye Garibaldi, Trent Holden, Jim Hsu, Laura Jane, David Kemp, Lisa Knights, Marina Kosmatos, Jonathon Litton, Adriana Mammarella, Annelies Mertens, Adam McCrow, Wibowo Rusli, Cara Smith, Louisa Syme, Gina Tsarouhas




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THANKS

KARLA ZIMMERMAN

Thanks to these Newfoundlanders for home-cooked dinners, tours and patience in answering questions: Bryan Curtis, Ron Makowichuk, Alison Croome, Chris and Priscilla Corcoran Mooney, Debrah Wirtzfeld, Robbie Hicks, Vyda, Jim and Murray Scott, Ken Brown, Dave MacDonald, Bonnie Goudie, Carmen Hancock, Ed Kirby and Gillian Marx. Thanks to Lisa Beran for womanning the wheel. Über gratitude to the Canada authors and editorial team for kick-ass work. Thanks most to Eric Markowitz, the world’s best partner-for-life.

JAMES BAINBRIDGE

Merci mille to Melissa Kent and Jonathan Clark in MontrГ©al, Caroline Corfield and Santol in QuГ©bec City, Francois in Baie St Paul, Denis Grenier in Tadoussac, Christine Lebel in Sept ГЋles, Ruan Kent in, err, southeast Ireland, Milou and Martin in RiviГЁre du Loup, Simon Zolotarev and Frank et Ses Potes in Ste Anne des Monts, Sarah Bond in GaspГ©, Cynthia Patterson and most of Barachois, and the Гјber-helpful tourist offices everywhere (particularly Natashquan).

CELESTE BRASH

Biggest thanks to my husband, Josh, and my kids, Jasmine and Tevai, for putting up with my absence. Thanks to Cathie from Yarmouth Backpackers, my favorite backpacker connection, and to the people of Nova Scotia for making this the most bump-free trip in my career. It was a pleasure to work with CE-extraordinaire Emily Wolman and all-star coordinating author Karla Zimmerman a second time.

NATALIE FOLSTER

Thanks to David Folster, Marion Beyea, Margot Folster and Maurice Cormier for their company, insights and lodgings on the road. Thanks to John McNair for the use of his cottage, and to Emily Wolman and Karla Zimmerman for patient stewardship of the text. A big thanks to Fred Welsford for driving the truck, loading the canoe, cleaning out the forgotten cooler, food tasting and for being an unfailingly good-natured traveling buddy.

SCOTT KENNEDY

Big thanks to: Kelly Sutherland, Henry Roberts, Don Bender, Ryan Collyer, John Creary, Dave and Anne Frick, Bryan Haggarty, Craig Kitchen, Joanne McPherson, Paul Newmarch, Ned Myopus, my attorney Gavin Harrison and to all great people I met on the road. To my Grandma K, philanthropist, world traveler and a great Canadian – we miss you. Mom and Dad for all your support over the years, and most of all to my wife, Sophie – for everything.

JOHN LEE

Many thanks to Lana at Tourism Vancouver Island for her help on this and other projects, in addition to the host of area tourism staff and generous locals who chatted to me along the way – it’s amazing how well a free beer can loosen the tongue on regional rivalries and spill the beans on in-the-know tips. Thanks also to my friends and family for their support and for forcing me to take occasional but very necessary breaks during my hibernation-style write-up period.

GRAHAM NEALE

Less than a year apart I partied with BC Lions Grey Cup champs and met the best girl in the world at the same bar in Winnipeg. Awesome. Speechless. Thanks to Ang and Jerome, for the everything-Manitoba lesson(s); to Wally and Mark for Churchill adventures; to Janice and Colette for invaluable assistance; to Manitoba the fish for inspiration. I met a lot of people, saw a lot of sites, all of them with special charm.

BRANDON PRESSER

My unending gratitude to Jack and Sheila. Big thanks to: Dad and Mum; Kattrin Sieber; Helen Lovekin; Morris and Wendy; Clarence Trapper; Rob Greggorini; Jim and Teri in Britt; Ruth Yeo; Brenda Renwick; Jantine van Kregten; Chipie; Lloyd Jones; U2 and Gwen Stefani for the many car ride sing-a-longs; and to the Lonely Planet staff, especially Emily Wolman, Charles Rawlings-Way, Amanda Sierp and Karla Zimmerman – you guys are rock stars, too.

CHARLES RAWLINGS-WAY

Thanks to the following folks for their input, generosity and friendship during the creation of this book: the Bentley Clan for hot dinners and rides in the Jag; Roger Dufau and Kathleen Stanley for Elora’s warmest welcome; and Brandon Presser, Emily Wolman and the in-house LP staff for slap-shooting this puck of a book into the back of the net. More than ever, thank you Meg for sticking around while I gallivant, hemispheres away.

SARAH RICHARDS

Thanks to my parents for encouraging me to feed the travel bug from an early age and to my husband, Benjamin, for all his love and support – even when an intensive writing session renders me delirious for days.

AARON SPITZER

Qujannamiik and mahsi cho to the numerous Northerners who gave me the lowdown on the top of the world, especially Don Jaque in Fort Smith, Sean Percy in Hay River and Roxanna Thompson in Fort Smith. A huge thanks to Amy Elgersma for lodging, local knowledge and lots of fun in Iqaluit. Cheers to my boss at Up Here magazine, Marion Lavigne, for letting me moonlight as a guidebook author. And, finally, an ovation for my editor on this project, Emily Wolman.

RYAN VER BERKMOES

Tony Dovas in Dawson is an island of fun and Jim Kemshead is the jester. I never tire of Dick North’s stories. Bruce Wishart and Jillian Greenwood always make me stay an extra day in Prince Rupert – and not just because my head hurts. Betsy Trumpener seeded me with ideas, John Lee was mensch and my mates aboard the Malaspina were always shipshape. Of course Erin Corrigan is simply a doll.



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THE LONELY PLANET STORY

Fresh from an epic journey across Europe, Asia and Australia in 1972, Tony and Maureen Wheeler sat at their kitchen table stapling together notes. The first Lonely Planet guidebook, Across Asia on the Cheap, was born.



Travelers snapped up the guides. Inspired by their success, the Wheelers began publishing books to Southeast Asia, India and beyond. Demand was prodigious, and the Wheelers expanded the business rapidly to keep up. Over the years, Lonely Planet extended its coverage to every country and into the virtual world via lonelyplanet.com and the Thorn Tree message board.



As Lonely Planet became a globally loved brand, Tony and Maureen received several offers for the company. But it wasn’t until 2007 that they found a partner whom they trusted to remain true to the company’s principles of traveling widely, treading lightly and giving sustainably. In October of that year, BBC Worldwide acquired a 75% share in the company, pledging to uphold Lonely Planet’s commitment to independent travel, trustworthy advice and editorial independence.



Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with over 500 staff members and 300 authors. Tony and Maureen are still actively involved with Lonely Planet. They’re traveling more often than ever, and they’re devoting their spare time to charitable projects. And the company is still driven by the philosophy of Across Asia on the Cheap: вЂ˜All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!’





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OUR READERS

Many thanks to the travelers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes:



A Daniel Abbott, Z Abdullah, Nerea Achutegui, Andrea Adams, Julie Adamson, Amy Agorastos, Richel Aguirre, Sheetal Aiyer, Marc Alarie, Max Alavi, Claire Albrecht, Erin Alderton, Richard Alderton, Glenn Alger, Helen and Dave Allan, Janet and Dave Allan, Pierre Allard, Christy Allen, Nicole Allen, Richard Allen, John Allenby, Graeme Anderson, Myles Anderson, Nils Anderson, Riley Anderson, Trygve Anderson, Luc Andre, Maria Andrews, Nicole Andrews, Eduardo Angel, Kate Angel, Wolfgang Angerer, Gill Ankers, John Annabell, Thierry Antoine, Stephanie Appert, Eileen Arandiga, Rosalind Archer, Salvador Arguello, Jarkko Arjatsalo, S Arnold, Terry Aspinall, Sue Asquith, John Atkin, BH Atkins, Katherine Austin B Brian Back, Idelberto Badell, Heather Badenoch, Hans Bahlmann, Ace Bailey, Steve Bailey, Karen Baillard, Dorothy Baker, Grace Ann Baker, Helen Baker, Jason Baker, Sandrine Balbo, Nick Baldwin, Georgia Banks, Kelly Banks, Linzi Banks, Bruno P Baratta, Michele Barber, Nina Barnaby, Craig Barrack, Greg Barry, Barbara Barta, Carmen Barteaux, Anke Bartels, Cathy Bartlett, Catherine Basaraba, Maria Basaraba, Ian Batt, Andrea Beal-Oetterli, Janet Beale, Shayne Beard, Al Beatty, Adam Becalski, Phil Beicken, Michel Belec, Piet Bels, Mirza Benca, Melanie Benoit, Verena Berger, Brian & Caryl Bergeron, Shirley Bergert, Jesse Bergman, Andrea Berreth, David Berridge, WJBest, Sjaak Beukers, Jen Bibeau, Alison Bibra, Luke Biggs, Nancy Evelyn Bikaunieks, Jude A Billard, PR Birch, Jim Bird, Stephane Eric Bisson, Frida Caroline Bjerkan, Julia Black, Sarah Blackwell, Robert Blackwood, Rachel Blair, Bob & Joan Blanchard, Jorge Blanco, John Blatz, Heather Blois, Nicole Boelens, Barbie Bojcun, Maria Bolano, Stephanie Bolduc, Claire Bolin, Phil Munter Bond, David Bonham, Christopher Booth, Michael Borger, Mike Borger, Jack Bornstein, Chris Borthwick, Marjorie Boucher, Rymonde Boucher, Carmen Boudreau-Kiviaho, Sarah P Bourque, Simon Bower, James Bown, Michelle Bowskill, Kim Boyce, Kevin Boyle, Bas & Bertrand Braam, Willard Bradley, Matthew Brady, Amy Brandon, Michael Brasier, Dan Brennan, Kathleen Brient, Michael Briggs, Barry Bristman, Ashley Bristowe, Joan Brittain, Ron Broadfoot, Jack Brondum, Amy Brooks, Sean Brooks, Michael Brothers, JF Brouillette, B Gavin Brown, Cheryl Brown, Eliza C Brown, Gerald Brown, Maxine Brown, John & Eileen Browne, Jens Brueggemann, Anton Brugman, Claire Brutails, Graeme Bryant, Cheryl Maxwell Buckeridge, Annette Buckley, Gary Budden, Bettina Buehler, Sandra Buhlmann, Larry Buickel, Terrilee Bulger, M D Bullen, Leigh Burbidge, Vera Burbidge, Dwight Burditt, Ron Burdo, Lesley Burgon, Elizabeth Burns, Kat Burns, Taodhg Burns, Carl Burrett, Eugenia Bursey, Marianne Busch, Jonathan Butchard, Claire Butler, Jean Butler, Donna Buxton, Kelly Byrnes C Nicole Caissey, Noel & Rosemary Callow, Cory Camilleri, Blaine Campbell, Kate Campbell, Jonathan Campton, Mark Canning, Tony & Lena Cansdale, Elisabete Cardoso, Lilia Cardoso-Gould, Sharyn Carey, Chris Carlisle, Zahavit Carmel, Colleen Carroll, Ernest Carwithen, Lisa Caspari, Edson Castilho, Vagner Castilho, Robert Catto, Jacky Chalk, Sara Chamberlin, Madeline & John Chambers, Sally Chambers, Joanna Champion, R K Chaplin, Craig Chapman, Lisa Chapman, Don Charlton, Julian Chen, Eve Chenu, Dewayne Chiasson, Ian Chiclo, Chungwah Chow, K M Chow, Natalie Chow, Hans Chowdhury, Ton Christiaanse, Niall GF Christie, Steven Christie, Claudia Chritl, Isabel Chudleigh, Pierre Chum, Wendy & Steve Churchill, Florence Ciavatta, Marlene Cirillo, Charles Citroen, Antoni Cladera, Guido Claessen, Carrie Clark, Dean Clark, Phil Clark, Steve Clark, Anna Clarke, Martin Clarke, Neville Clarke, Peter Clough, Karen Clutterbuck, Mike Clyne, Mike Coburn, Juliet Coe, Celine Cogneau, M Cohen, David Colburn, Elizabeth Cole, Don Coleman, Sarah Coleopy, Sarah & David Coleopy, Berna Collier, Thea Collin, Dr Paul Collins, Paul Collins, Rachel Collis, Maurice Conklin, Victoria Conlin, Conrad, Philip Coo, Laurence Coogan, Charlotte Cook, Gillian Cook, Katherine Cook, Nathan Cook, Angela Cookson, Jeremy Copeland, Maria Copello, Lenior Corbeau, Max Corbeil, Leanne Cormack, Tosja Coronell, Sonja Corradini, Rebecca Cory, Agustin Cot, Linda Cotton, Lynda Cotton, Elsa Coudon, Peter Court-Hampton, Catrin Cousins, Callum Couston, Catherine Cowan, Michael Cowie, Brian Cox, Geoffrey Cox, Sara Cox, Sara & Brian Cox, Simon Cox, Dean Cracknell, Cilla Craig, Steve Craig, Kevin Crampton, Brian Crawford, Yvette Creighton, Phil Crew, Brad Crockett, William Cross, William & Norma Cross, Ken Crossman, Dany Cuello, Hilary Mc Cully, Daniel Cunningham, Valentina Cusnir, Cathy Ann Cwycyshyn, Krystyna Cynar D Martina D’Ascola, Rod Daldry, Edward Dale, Mary-Camillus Dale, Leonne Damson, Leonne & Alan Damson, Barbara Danin, Margaret Darby, Philipp Daumke, Huw Davies, Louise Davies, Chuck Davis, Lee Davis, Max Davis, Warren Davis, Leanne Dawson, Leanne & Alan Dawson, Nicky Dawson, Nicky & Murray Sayers Dawson, Richard Dawson, Ron Deacon, Bjorn Debaillie, Paul-Olivier Dehaye, Leroy W Demery, Petra Dengl, Yves Desrichard, Sarah Devin, Pierre Devinat, Dominique Devoucoux, Lara Diamond, Julia Dickinson, M Digel, Liza Dilley, Louise Dillon, Martin Dinn, Kerry T Diotte, Tilman Dnrbeck, Alexandra Dodd, Monique Dodinet, Sarah Dodson, Allan Doig, Nikki Dolbaczuk, Sandra Dollar, Clare Dominguez, Megan Donald, Robert Dorin, Matt Doughty, Allan Douglas, Guy Douglas, Hugh Dowd, Jean Dragushan, Shannon Draper, Eric Drewes, Tilman Duerbeck, P Duffy, Judy & Roger Dumm, Andy Duncan, Jayleen Duncan, Robyn Duncan, Traci Dunlop, Geoff Durham, Mieke Dusseldorp, Nicole Dyer E Jackie Early, Phillip East, Rebecca Easterly, Nadja Eberhardt, Donna Ebert, Hermann Ebsen, Peter Eden, Chris Edwards, Jay Edwards, Martin Edwards, Mike Edwards, David Egan, Henning Eifler, Reinhart Eisenberg, Frank Eisenhuth, Krispen Elder, Laura Ell, Teresa Ellis, Adriana Ellis-Fragoso, Ben Elliston, Tom Elvin, Nicholas A Enright, Chris Enting, Emily Evans F Tore Fagervold, Keith Fairbairn, Jonathan Falk, Paul Falvo, Alan Farleigh, Sandra Farley, Nicole Faubert, Gabriele Faust, Peter Fennick, Annette Ferguson, Joseph Ferigno, Katy Ferrar, Gina Field, Elizabeth & Alan Fieldus, Paulo Filipe, Nadine Fillipoff, Raymond Finan, Shaun Finch, Alaric Fish, Sarah Fisher, Mandy Fletcher, Michael Fletcher, Richard Foltz, Selena Sung Li Foong, Andrew Forbes, Bonita Ford, Graham Ford, Doreen Forney, Peter Forte, Marian Fortner, Jamie Foster, Jonathan Foster, Timothy Fowkes, Garry Fox, Ellen Foxman, Mark Frankel, Justin Fraser, Suzan Fraser, Jen Frederickson, Anders Frederiksen, Magnus Fredrikson, Ben Freeman, Kevin Freer, Constance Frey, Ingo Friese, Donna Fruin, Becky Fryer, Boris Funke G Eric Gagnon, Denise Le Gal, Jason Galea, Derek Galon, Fabiana Gamberini, Christina Gamouras, Juan Garbajosa, Abraham Garcia, Jennifer Gardner, William Gardner, Alex Garic, Pam Gaskin, Richard Gavey, Costanza Gechter, Verstrepen Geert, Saskia Geerts, Dominic Geisler, Mathieu Georges, Samira Ghazi, Ferdinando Emilio Giammichele, Jemma Gilbert, Philip Gilbert, Sandra Gilis, James Gill, James Gilmour, B R Giri, Brad Gledhill, Mike Gleeson, Michele Glover, Javeen Godbeer, Cathy Godfrey, Colin Godfrey, Barbara Goldflam, Shelley Goldschlager, Lisa Goldsworthy, Claudia Gomes, Nigel Goodall, Kristy Goodchild, Hilary Gooding, George Goracz, Katherine Gordon, Dayna Gorman, Paul Goudreau, Louise Goulding, Peter Gourley, C B T Grace, Carol Graham, Kim Graham, Eileen Grant, Anthea Grasty, David & Lynn Gray, John Gray, Matthew Gray, Toni Gray, Andrew Graybill, Dylan Green, Ken Green, Ronalie Green, Ray Greenwood, Ian A Griffin, Andrea Grill, Sabine Groener, Travel Gross, Wellum & Nonna Gross, Bob Grubb, Judy Grubb, Ken Guappone, Gilbert Guinard, Tineke Guise, Lisa Guiton, Maria Gulliern, Rob & Annemieke Gulmans, Joseph Gumino, Gavin Guthrie, Jim Guthrie, Barbara Gutteling, Lise Guyot, Valerie Gwinner H Alison Hahn, Natalie Haines, Daryl 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ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

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