Guide to Australia(2)

A short drive away is Central Tilba;
like its smaller twin, it’s classified as a
heritage village under the National
Trust. The quaint wooden buildings here
make it perhaps the most attractive of
all the historic settlements in Australia.
You’ll develop a soft spot for the village’s
Old Time Lolly Shop and love the
warm feeling of the Tilba Teapot Cafe.
There are also antiques stores and art
galleries and shops selling crystals and
jewelry. My favorite was the Tilba
Woodturning Gallery, which specializes
in carved bowls, wind chimes, rocking
horses, and so much more. I left with
fine-spun jumpers from the Tilba Alpaca
Shop (shipped in from Nepal), Tilba
Famous Fudge from the general store,
and some Applebox Smoke and Summer
Herb cheeses from the award-winning
ABC Cheese Factory, the first
cheese co-op in NSW. With a bottle or
two from Tilba Valley Wines and a loaf
of granary bread from the local bakery,
you’re well set up for the next day’s
lunch. Follow it all up with a snooze to
the tune of mooing cows.

For more information, visit www.
tilba.com.au.

ESSENTIALS

GETTING THERE The drive from either Sydney or Melbourne takes about 7
hours. The Greyhound Australia (& 13 14 99 in Australia, or 07/4690 9950;
www.greyhound.com.au) bus trip from Sydney takes more than 8 hours.


6
VISITOR INFORMATION The Merimbula Tourist Information Centre,
Beach Street, Merimbula (&1800/150 457 in Australia, or 02/6495 1129; www.
merimbulatourism.com.au), is open daily from 9am to 5pm (10am–4pm in winter).

SPECIAL EVENTS Jazz fans should head for the Merimbula Jazz Festival
held over the long Queens Birthday weekend, the second weekend in June. A
country-music festival takes place the last weekend in October.

WHERE TO STAY
Ocean View Motor Inn This pleasant motel has good water views from 12 of its
rooms (the best are nos. 9, 10, and 11). The rooms are spacious and modern, with
plain brick walls, patterned carpets, and one long balcony serving the top six rooms.
Fourteen units have kitchenettes, and all have showers. This is just a friendly place.

Merimbula Dr. and View St., Merimbula, NSW 2548. & 02/6495 2300. Fax 02/6495 3443. www.
oceanviewmotorinn.com.au. 20 units. A$85–A$125 double; family rooms available. Higher rate at
Christmas and Easter. Extra person A$15. MC, V. Amenities: Babysitting; medium-size solar-heated
outdoor pool; room service; free Wi-Fi. In room: A/C, TV, kitchenette.

THE SNOWY MOUNTAINS


Thredbo: 519km (322 miles) SW of Sydney; 208km (129 miles) SW of Canberra; 543km (337 miles) NE
of Melbourne

Made famous by Banjo Paterson’s 1890 poem “The Man from Snowy River,” the Snowy
Mountains are most commonly used for what you’d least expect in Australia: skiing. It
starts to snow around June and carries on until September. During this time hundreds
of thousands of people flock here to ski at the major ski resorts: Thredbo and Perisher
Blue, and, to a lesser extent, Charlotte Pass and Mount Selwyn. It’s certainly different
skiing here, with ghostly white gum trees as the obstacles instead of pine trees.

The entire region is part of the Kosciuszko (pronounced Ko-zi-os-co) National
Park, the largest alpine area in Australia. During the summer months the park is a
beautiful place for walking, and in spring the profusion of wildflowers is exquisite.
A series of lakes in the area, including the one in the resort town of Jindabyne, are
favorites with trout fishermen.

Visitors stay in Jindabyne, 62km (38 miles) south of Cooma, or Thredbo Village,
36km (22 miles) southwest of Jindabyne. Jindabyne is a bleak-looking resort
town on the banks of the man-made Lake Jindabyne, which came into existence
when the Snowy River was dammed to provide hydroelectric power.

Thredbo Village is set in a valley of Mount Crackenback and resembles Europeanstyle
resorts. From here, the Crackenback Chairlift provides access to an easy-grade
pathway that leads to the top of Mount Kosciuszko, which at 2,228m (7,308 ft.) is
Australia’s highest peak. The mountain has stunning views of the alpine region and
some good walks.

Snowy Mountain Essentials

GETTING THERE From Sydney, take the Eastern Distributor road toward Sydney
Airport and turn right just before the planes, following the signs to Wollongong,
and then Canberra, on the M5 motorway and the Hume Highway. Follow the Hume
Highway south to Goulburn, where you turn onto the Federal Highway toward Canberra.
From there take the Monaro Highway to Cooma, and then follow the Alpine
Way through Jindabyne and on to Thredbo. Tire chains may be necessary on the

NEW SOUTH

The Snowy Mountains

227


NEW SOUTH WALES

The Snowy Mountains

6 slopes in winter and can be rented from local service stations. The trip takes around
6 hours from Sydney with short breaks. From Melbourne, travel the Hume Highway
to Albury-Wodonga. Head east through Khancoban, and take the Alpine Way
through Thredbo to Jindabyne.
Qantas (& 13 13 13 in Australia) has daily flights from Sydney to Cooma. A
connecting bus to the ski fields takes about 1 hour and operates from June through
October. It’s run by Snowy Mountain Hire Cars (& 02/6456 2957) and costs
around A$52 one-way. Alpine Charters (&02/6456 7340) also runs coaches.
In winter only (around June 19–Oct 5), Greyhound Australia (&13 14 99 in
Australia, or 07/4690 9950; www.greyhound.com.au) operates daily buses between
Sydney and Cooma, via Canberra. The journey takes around 7 hours from Sydney
and 3 hours from Canberra. A one-way ticket costs around A$55.

VISITOR INFORMATION Pick up information about the ski fields and accommodations
options at the Cooma Visitors Centre, 119 Sharp St., Cooma, NSW
2630 (& 02/6450 1740; fax 02/6450 1798); or at the Snowy Region Visitor
Centre, Kosciuszko Road, Jindabyne, NSW 2627 (&02/6450 5600; fax 02/6456
1249; srvc@npws.nsw.gov.au). Perisher Blue has its own website, www.perisher
blue.com.au, as does Thredbo, www.thredbo.com.au. Another good website is
www.snowymountains.com.au.

Hitting the Slopes & Other Adventures

Obviously, skiing is the most popular activity here. More than 50 ski lifts serve the
fields of Perisher Valley, Mount Blue Cow, Smiggins Holes, and Guthega. Perisher
Valley offers the best overall slopes; Mount Blue Cow is generally very crowded;
Smiggins Holes offers good slopes for beginners; and Guthega has nice light, powdery
snow and is less crowded. Thredbo has some very challenging runs and the
longest downhill runs, but I prefer Perisher for atmosphere. A day’s ski pass at
Thredbo and Perisher Blue costs a huge A$103 for adults, A$57 for children 6 to 14.

You can drive directly to the Perisher Blue resort, or you can take the ski-tube
train (starts btw. Jindabyne and Thredbo on the Alpine Way). This travels through
the mountains to Perisher Blue and then to Blue Cow. (A “ski-tube train” is a train
that goes through a mountain tunnel.) It costs A$47 return for adult skiers, A$26 for
kids, and A$112 for a family of four. Ski gear can be rented at numerous places in
Jindabyne and Thredbo.

In summer, the region is popular for hiking, canoeing, fishing, and golf. Thredbo
Village has tennis courts, a 9-hole golf course, and mountain-bike trails.

Where to Stay

You’ll have to book months ahead to find a place during the ski season (especially on

weekends). And don’t expect to find a lot of bargains. It’s well worth checking
out the Jindabyne and Snowy Mountain
Accommodation website, www.
snowaccommodation.com.au,
because lots of private apartments are
listed here, as well as rooms in resorts.
The website for Thredbo, www.
thredbo.com.au, is another option.

Ski Condition Updates
For up-to-date ski field information,
call the Snowy Region Visitor Centre
(&02/6450 5600).



6
In the Footsteps of the Man from Snowy River
Horseback riding is a popular activity
for those who fancy themselves “Men
from Snowy River” (see p. 70). Reynella
Alpine Horseback Safaris, in Adamanaby,
44km (27 miles) northwest of
Cooma (&1800/029 909 in Australia,
or 02/6454 2386; fax 02/6454 2530;
www.reynellarides.com.au), offers multinight
rides through the Kosciuszko
National Park from October to the end
of April. Three-day, four-night rides
cost around A$1,133. Five-day, six-night
rides are A$1,778. The trips are allinclusive
and include camping and
homestead accommodations. This is
about as close as you can get to living
out Banjo Paterson’s epic poem.

IN THREDBO
Riverside Cabins These self-contained studio and one-bedroom cabins sit above
the Thredbo River and overlook the Crackenback Range. They’re also a short walk
from the Thredbo Alpine Hotel and local shops. Most rooms have balconies. Rates
vary wildly from weekday to weekend and season to season.

Thredbo, NSW 2625. &02/6459 4196 in Australia, or 02/6459 4299. Fax 02/6459 4195. 36 units.
Winter A$160–A$516 double; summer A$117–A$164 double. Ask about weekly rates. AE, DC, MC, V.
In room: TV, hair dryer, kitchen.

Thredbo Alpine Apartments These apartments are very similar to the Riverside
Cabins (see above) and are managed by the same people. All have balconies
with mountain views. Some have queen-size beds. There’s limited daily maid service
and free in-room movies. Winter rates apply from July 30 through September 2.

Thredbo, NSW 2628. &1800/026 333 in Australia, or 02/6459 4299. Fax 02/6459 4195. 35 units.
Winter Sat–Sun A$210–A$441 1-bedroom apt, A$289–A$628 2-bedroom apt, A$394–A$770 3-bedroom
apt, weekday rates about 20% cheaper; summer A$127–A$164 1-bedroom apt, A$159–A$190
2-bedroom apt, A$180–A$210 3-bedroom apt. Ask about weekly rates. AE, DC, MC, V. Covered parking.
In room: TV, hair dryer, kitchen.

Thredbo Alpine Hotel After the skiing is finished for the day, the center of activity
in Thredbo is this large resort-style lodge. Rooms vary; those on the top floor of the
three-story hotel have king-size beds instead of standard queen-size ones. The rooms
are all wood-paneled and have free in-house movies. Thredbo’s only nightclub is here.

P.O. Box 80, Thredbo, NSW 2625. & 02/6459 4200. Fax 02/6459 4201. www.thredbo.com.au. 65
units. Winter A$198–A$498 double; summer A$129–A$189 double. Rates include breakfast. Ask about
weekly rates and packages. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bistro, 4 bars; golf course nearby;
Jacuzzi; heated outdoor pool; room service (winter only); sauna; 3 lit tennis courts. In room: TV/VCR,
hair dryer, minibar.
OUTBACK NEW SOUTH WALES

The Outback is a powerful Australian image. Hot, dusty, and prone to flies, it can
also be a romantic place where wedge-tailed eagles float in the shimmering heat,
tracing the unbroken horizon. If you drive out here, you have to be constantly on the
lookout for emus, large flightless birds that dart across roads open-beaked and wideeyed.
When you turn off the car engine, it’s so quiet you can hear the scales of a

NEW SOUTH

Outback South

229


6 sleepy lizard, as long as your forearm, scraping the rumpled track as it turns to taste
the air with its long, blue tongue.
The scenery is a huge canvas with a restricted palette: blood red for the dirt, straw
yellow for the blotches of Mitchell grass, searing blue for the surreally large sky.
There is room to be yourself in the Outback, and you’ll soon find that personalities
tilt toward the eccentric. It’s a hardworking place, too, where miners and sheep and
cattle farmers try to eke out a living in Australia’s hard center.

Broken Hill


1,157km (717 miles) W of Sydney; 508km (315 miles) NE of Adelaide

At its heart, Broken Hill—or “Silver City,” as it’s been nicknamed—is still very much

a hardworking mining town. Its beginnings date to 1883, when the trained eye of a
boundary rider named Charles Rasp
noticed something odd about the
craggy rock outcrops at a place called
the Broken Hill. He thought he saw
deposits of tin, but they turned out to
be silver and lead. Today, the city’s
main drag, Argent Street, bristles with
finely crafted colonial mansions, heritage
homes, hotels, and public buildings.
Look deeper and you see the

town’s quirkiness. Around one corner you’ll find the radio station, built to resemble
a giant wireless set with round knobs for windows, and around another the headquarters
of the Housewives Association, which ruled the town with an iron apron for
generations. Then there’s the Palace Hotel—made famous in the movie The Adventures
of Priscilla, Queen of the Desert—with its high painted walls and a mural of
Botticelli’s Birth of Venus on the ceiling two flights up.

Traditionally a hard-drinking but religious town, Broken Hill has 23 pubs (down
from 73 in its heyday) and plenty of churches, as well as a Catholic cathedral, a
synagogue, and a mosque to serve its 21,000 inhabitants.

ESSENTIALS
GETTING THERE By car, take the Great Western Highway from Sydney to
Dubbo, and then the Mitchell Highway to the Barrier Highway, which will take you
to Broken Hill. Southern Australian Airlines (book through Qantas, &13 13 13
in Australia) also connects Broken Hill to Adelaide, Melbourne, and Mildura.

The Indian Pacific train stops here on its way from Sydney to Perth, via Adelaide,
twice a week. It takes nearly 16 hours from Sydney to Broken Hill, leaving
Sydney at 2:55pm on Saturday and Wednesday and arriving in Broken Hill at
6:40am the next day. You only get to stay a very short time in Broken Hill though. A
1-hour whistle stop tour is available. The fare from Sydney to Adelaide is around
A$694 for adults and A$527 for children in a first-class sleeper, A$501 for adults and
A$365 for children in an economy sleeper, and A$308 for adults and A$138 for
children in an economy seat. These prices regularly go up though. Contact Great
Southern Railways (& 08/8213 4530; www.gsr.com.au) for timetables, latest
fares, bookings, and more information.

Outback New South Wales

NEW SOUTH WALES
Broken Hill runs its clocks on Central
Standard Time, to correspond with
South Australia. The surrounding coun-
try, however, runs a half-hour faster at
Eastern Standard Time.
What Time Is It, Anyway?

6
Greyhound Australia (& 13 14 99 in Australia, or 07/4690 9950; www.
greyhound.com.au) runs buses from Adelaide for around A$60; the trip takes 7
hours. The 16-hour trip from Sydney costs from A$96.

VISITOR INFORMATION The Broken Hill Visitors Information Centre,
Blende and Bromide streets, Broken Hill, NSW 2880 (& 08/8080 3560; www.
visitbrokenhill.com.au), is open daily from 8:30am to 5pm. The National Parks &
Wildlife Service (NPWS) office is at 183 Argent St. (&08/8088 5933); and the
Royal Automobile Association of South Australia, which offers reciprocal
services to other national and international auto-club members, is at 261 Argent St.
(&08/8088 4999).

Note: The area code in Broken Hill is 08, the same as the South Australia code,
not 02, the New South Wales code.

GETTING AROUND Free, volunteer-led tours lead off from the Visitors Information
Centre at 10am on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays from March to
October. Silver City Tours, 380 Argent St. (& 08/8087 6956; www.silvercity
tours.com.au), conducts tours of the city and surroundings every day apart from
Monday. Half-day city tours take around 4 hours and cost A$67 for adults and A$37
for children. The company also offers other tours, including a Saturday tour to
White Cliffs costing A$172 for adults and A$100 for kids.

Other good operators are Tri State Safaris (& 08/8088 2389; www.tristate.
com.au), which runs many multiday tours into the Outback, including 1-day tours
to Mutawintji National Park for A$165 and White Cliffs for A$168. It’s well worth
doing some solid research before you leave home.

Hertz (&08/8087 2719) rents four-wheel-drive vehicles suitable for exploring
the area.

EXPLORING THE TOWN: GALLERIES, MINE TOURS &
THE WORLD’S LARGEST SCHOOLROOM

With the largest regional public gallery in New South Wales and 27 private galleries,
Broken Hill has more places per capita to see art than anywhere else in Australia.
The Broken Hill Regional Art Gallery, Chloride Street, between Blende and
Beryl streets (& 08/8080 3440; www.brokenhill.net.au/bhart/main.html), houses
an extensive collection of Australian colonial and Impressionist works. Look for the
Silver Tree, a sculpture created out of the pure silver mined beneath Broken Hill.
This is also a good place to see works by the “Brushmen of the Bush,” a well-known
group of artists including Pro Hart, Jack Absalom, Eric Minchin, and Hugh Schultz
who spend many days sitting around campfires in the bush trying to capture its
essence in paint. The gallery is open daily from 10am to 5pm. Admission is A$3 for
adults, A$2 for children, and A$6 for families.

Be sure not to miss the School of the Air and the Royal Flying Doctor Service base,
both of which help show the enormity of the Australian interior. The School of the
Air—the largest schoolroom in the world, with students scattered over 800,000 sq.
km (312,000 sq. miles)—conducts lessons via two-way radios. Visitors can listen in
on part of the day’s first teaching session Monday through Friday at 8:30am (except
school and public holidays). Bookings are essential and must be made the day before
through the Broken Hill Visitors Information Centre (see “Visitor Information,”
above). Tours costs A$3.50 for adults and A$2.50 for kids. The Royal Flying Doctor
Service base is at the Broken Hill Airport (&08/8080 1777). The service maintains

NEW SOUTH

Outback South

231


NEW SOUTH WALES

Outback New South Wales

6 communication with more than 400 Outback stations, ready to fly at once in case of
an emergency. The base at Broken Hill covers 25% of New South Wales, as well as
parts of Queensland and South Australia. Explanations of the role of the flying doctor
service run continuously at the base Monday through Friday from 9am to 5pm.
Admission is A$6 for adults and A$3 for children.
Join the Bush Mail Run (& 02/8087 2164, or 0411/102 339 mobile), an
Outback mail delivery service by four-wheel-drive that operates every Wednesday
and Saturday. The day starts at 7am, and you cover roughly 500km (310 miles). You
stop at various homesteads. The run costs A$142.

OTHER THINGS TO SEE & DO NEARBY
VISITING A GHOST TOWN At least 44 movies have been filmed in the Wild
West town of Silverton


(pop. 50), 23km (14 miles) northwest of Broken Hill. It’s
the Wild West Australian-style, though, with camels instead of horses sometimes
placed in front of the Silverton Pub, which is well worth a visit for its kitschy
Australian appeal. Silverton once had a population of 3,000 following the discovery
of silver here in 1882, but within 7 years almost everyone had left. There are some
good art galleries here, as well as a restored jail and hotel.
DISCOVERING ABORIGINAL HANDPRINTS Mutawintji National Park


(also known and pronounced by its old name, Mootwingee), 130km (81 miles)
northeast of Broken Hill, was one of the most important spiritual meeting places for
Aborigines on the continent. Groups came from all over to peck out abstract engravings
on the rocks with sharpened quartz tools and to sign their handprints to show
they belonged to the place. The ancient, weathered fireplaces are still here, laid out
like a giant map to show where each visiting group came from. Hundreds of ocher
outlines of hands and animal paws, some up to 30,000 years old, are stenciled on
rock overhangs. The fabulous 2-hour Outback trip from Broken Hill to Mootwingee
is along red-dirt tracks not really suitable for two-wheel-drives. It should not be
attempted after a heavy rain.

The National Park office (& 1300/361 967 in Australia, or 08/8080 3200)
has details on walks. You can camp at the Homestead Creek campground for A$5
per person per night. It has its own water supply, but no firewood is available. Book
through the National Park office.

EXPLORING WHITE CLIFFS


White Cliffs, 290km (180 miles) east of
Broken Hill, is an opal-mining town that’s bigger than it looks. To escape the summer
heat, most houses are built underground in mine shafts, where the temperature is a
constant 72°F (22°C). Unlike Lightning Ridge (see below), which produces mainly
black opals, White Cliffs is known for its less valuable white opals—as is Coober Pedy
in South Australia (see chapter 12). Prospecting started in 1889, when kangaroo shooters
found the colorful stones on the ground. A year later, the rush was on, and by the
turn of the 20th century, about 4,000 people were digging and sifting in a lawless,
waterless hell of a place. White Cliffs is smaller than Coober Pedy and less touristy—
which is its charm. You also have more freedom to wander around the opal tailings here,
which is discouraged in Coober Pedy. Given the choice between White Cliffs and
Lightning Ridge, I’d opt for the latter—though if you have time, you should see both.
The countryside here looks like an inverted moonscape, pimpled with bone-white
heaps of gritty clay dug from the 50,000 mine shafts that surround the town. These
days, White Cliffs is renowned for its eccentricity. Take Jock’s Place, for instance,
an underground museum full to the beams with junk pulled from old mine shafts.

232


6
A Fabulous Place to Enjoy the Sunset
Just outside Broken Hill, in the Living
Desert Nature Park, is the best collection
of sculptures this side of Stonehenge.
Twelve sandstone obelisks, up to
3m (10 ft.) high and carved totemlike by
artists from as far away as Georgia,
Syria, Mexico, and the Tiwi Islands,
make up the Sculpture Symposium. Surrounding
them on all sides is brooding
mulga scrub. It’s fantastic at sunset.

Then there’s a house made of beer flagons, and a 9-hole dirt golf course where
locals play at night with fluorescent green balls.

WHERE TO STAY: ABOVEGROUND & BELOW

One option is to rent a local cottage from Emaroo Cottages (&08/8595 7217;
www.emaroocottages.com.au) from A$80 a night.

Best Western Broken Hill Oasis Motor Inn This is my favorite place to stay
in Broken Hill, although admittedly that’s not really saying much in this Outback
town. It’s set way back from the road, has nice green areas and barbecue facilities,
and is very quiet. The more expensive AAA-rated four-star rooms are much nicer
than the cheaper options and considerably larger. Two family rooms sleep up to six
in a combination of single and queen-size beds. You can order off several menus
supplied by local restaurants; the hotel supplies plates and cutlery.

142 Iodide St., Broken Hill, NSW 2880. &08/8088 2255. Fax 08/8088 2255. http://brokenhilloasis.
bestwestern.com.au. 15 units. A$120 double; A$145 2-bed unit. Extra person A$10. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities:
Heated outdoor pool; sauna; smoke-free rooms. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer.

Underground Motel


I love this place; it’s worth making the scenic trip out
to White Cliffs just to stay here for the night. All but two of the rooms are underground;
they’re reached by a maze of spacious tunnels dug out of the rock and sealed
with epoxy resin to keep out the damp and the dust. The temperature below ground
is a constant 72°F (22°C), which is decidedly cooler than a summer day outside.
Rooms are comfortable though basic, with shared toilets and showers. Turn the light
off and it’s dark as a cave. Every night, guests sit around large tables and dig into the
roast of the day. (Vegetarians have options, too.) The three-course meal costs A$35.
Smiths Hill, White Cliffs (P.O. Box 427), NSW 2836. &08/8091 6677. Fax 08/8091 6654. www.under
groundmotel.com.au. 30 units, none with bathroom. A$125 double. Extra person A$35. MC, V. Amenities:
Restaurant; bar; small heated outdoor pool.

WHERE TO DINE

The best place for a meal Aussie-style is a local club. You’ll find one of the best bistros
at the Barrier Social & Democratic Club, 218 Argent St. (&08/8088 4477).
It serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Another good one is at the Southern Cross
Hotel, at 357 Cobalt St. (&02/8088 4122). Interestingly, the fresh fish is a standout.
Locals go for steaks at the Sturt Club, at 321 Blende St. (&02/8087 4541).

Lightning Ridge: Opals Galore


793km (492 miles) NW of Sydney; 737km (457 miles) SW of Brisbane

Lightning Ridge, or “The Ridge” as the locals call it, is perhaps the most fascinating
place to visit in New South Wales. Essentially, it’s a hardworking opal-mining town

NEW SOUTH

Outback South

233


NEW SOUTH WALES

Outback New South Wales

6 in the arid northern reaches of New South Wales—where summer temperatures
hover at the 113°F (45°C) mark. Lightning Ridge thrives off the largest deposit of
black opals in the world. Quality opals can fetch a miner around A$8,000 per carat,
and stones worth more than A$500,000 each are not unheard of. Tourists come to
get a taste of Australia’s “Wild West.” A popular activity in the opal fields is to pick
over the old heaps of mine tailings. Stories (perhaps tall tales) abound of tourists
finding overlooked opals worth thousands.
I strongly recommend you visit the Grawin and Glengarry opal fields ,
both about an hour or so from Lightning Ridge on a dirt track suitable for two-wheeldrive
cars in dry weather only. (Check with the Tourist Information Centre before
you go.) Bristling with drills and hoists pulling out bucket-loads of dirt, these frontier
townships buzz with news of the latest opal rush. If you can convince a local to take
you there, all the better—the tracks can be misleading. Ando’s Outback Tours
(see “Byron Bay: A Beach Bohemia,” earlier in this chapter) takes in Glengarry and
Lightning Ridge on its 5-day trip.

ESSENTIALS
GETTING THERE From Sydney, it takes about 9 hours to drive to Lightning
Ridge, via Bathurst, Dubbo, and the fascinating town of Walgett. Airlink
(&02/6884 2435) flies to Lightning Ridge from Sydney via Dubbo. Countrylink
(& 13 22 32) runs trains from Sydney to Dubbo, and then it’s a bus from there.
The trip from Dubbo takes around 41.2 hours and costs A$60.

VISITOR INFORMATION The Lightning Ridge Tourist Information Centre,
Morilla Street (P.O. Box 1380), Lightning Ridge, NSW 2834 (& 02/6829
1670), is open daily from 9am to 5pm. The most useful website for Lightning Ridge
is www.lightningridgeinfo.com.au.

SPECIAL EVENTS If you’re in Australia around Easter, make sure you come to
Lightning Ridge for the Great Goat Race and the rodeo. For more information,
check www.lightningridgeinfo.com.au.

SEEING THE TOWN

Any visit to Lightning Ridge should start with an orientation trip with Black Opal
Tours (& 02/6829 0368; www.blackopaltours.com.au). The company offers
3-hour tours starting at 8:30am, 9:30am, and 1:30pm (Mar–Oct only). Tours cost
A$25 for adults and A$10 for kids.

The 15m-tall (49-ft.) Amigo’s Castle, dominates the worked-out opal fields surrounding
the modern township of Lightning Ridge. Complete with turrets, battlements,
dungeons, and a wishing well, the castle has been rising out of these arid
lands for the past 18 years, with every rock scavenged from the surrounding area and
lugged in a wheelbarrow or in a rucksack on Amigo’s back. The wonderful Amigo
hasn’t taken out insurance on the property, so there are no official tours—though if
he feels like a bit of company, he’ll show you around.

The Artesian Bore Baths, 2km (11.4 miles) from the post office on Pandora
Street, are free, open 24 hours a day, and said to have therapeutic value. The water
temperature hovers between 104°F and 122°F (40°C–50°C). A visit at night, when
the stars are out, is amazing.

Bevan’s Black Opal & Cactus Nursery (& 02/6829 0429) contains more
than 2,000 species of cactus and succulent plants, including rare specimens. Betty


6
Bevan cuts opals from the family’s mine, and many are on display. Admission is A$5
to the cactus nursery, free to see the opals.

Lightning Ridge has plenty of opal shops, galleries, walk-in opal mines, and other
unique things to see. You might want to take a look at Gemopal Pottery (&02/6829
0375), on the road to the Bore Baths. The resident potter makes some nice pots out
of clay mine tailings and lives in one of his five old Sydney railway carriages.

Another unusual one is the Black Queen (&02/6829 0980; www.blackqueen.
com.au), Australia’s foremost antique lamp museum. There are some 200 magnificent
lamps here, and it hosts an interactive light show daily at 9am and 1 and 3pm.
Admission is A$25. Family tickets and tours are available.

The Bottle House, 60 Opal St. (&02/6829 0618), is worth seeing too. Originally
a miner’s camp, the Bottle House now houses an astonishing collection of
artifacts and other items of curious interest. It’s open from 9am to 5pm daily, and
entry costs A$5 for adults (free for kids).

WHERE TO STAY & DINE

An interesting addition to the Lightning Ridge lodging scene is the Lightning
Ridge Hotel/Motel (& 02/6829 0304; www.ridgehotelmotel.com.au), set on 4
hectares (10 acres) of bush, complete with a birdbath to attract the native parrots.
There are 40 log cabins, as well as a trailer park and camping sites. Cabins cost A$65
without a bathroom or A$75 with a bathroom; motel rooms go for A$90 double,
A$100 triple, and A$170 family room.

A nice B&B in the opal fields is Sonja’s Bed and Breakfast, 60 Butterfly Ave.
(& 02/6829 2010; www.sonjasbedandbreakfast.com). Rooms cost A$130 for a
double and A$180 for a family. Another option is Black Opal Holiday Units,
Morilla Street (& 02/6829 0222; www.blackopalholidayunits.com.au). The selfcontained
apartments are basic but comfortable, and cost A$95 a double. If you
want to stay at the Glengarry opal fields, your only option is the Glengarry Hilton
(& 02/6829 3808), a rustic Outback pub (not associated with the major hotel
chain). Here you stay in mobile units sleeping 24. A night costs A$16.

You can get a reasonable bistro meal at Nobbies Restaurant, in the Lightning
Ridge Hotel (&02/6829 4226). It’s open for breakfast from 7 to 9am, with lunch
from noon to 2pm and dinner from 6 to 9pm. The Lightning Ridge Bowling
Club, on Morilla Street (& 02/6829 0408), also offers inexpensive bistro meals
costing between A$12 and A$16. It’s open for lunch between noon and 2pm and
dinner from 6 to 9pm.

The Wallangulla Motel My choice of the motels in town, the Wallangulla offers
two standards of rooms, the cheaper ones being in an older section of the property.
Newer rooms are better furnished and generally nicer; they’re worth the extra money.
Two large family rooms each have two bedrooms and a living room; one has a Jacuzzi.
Guests can use the barbecue facilities. The Lightning Ridge Bowling Club
across the road has a restaurant with pretty good food and a very cheap bistro; motel
guests can charge meals to their room bills.

Morilla St. (at Agate St.), Lightning Ridge, NSW 2834. &02/6829 0542. Fax 02/6829 0070. www.lrbc.
com.au/wallangulla. 42 units. A$70–A$100 double; A$90–A$115 triple; A$130–A$135 family room with
Jacuzzi. AE, DC, MC, V. In room: A/C, TV.

NEW SOUTH

Outback South

235


BRISBANE


by Lee Mylne


7 Brisbane is one of those cities that seems always to
be changing, without ever losing its essential character.
The city skyline has been bristling with construction
cranes—a sure sign that the laid-back capital of
Queensland is once again booming. This subtropical city,
set along the banks of the wide, brown Brisbane River, saw
overzealous development in the ’70s demolish some of its
elegant colonial buildings, but the city has kept enough of
them—including the wonderfully imposing City Hall, currently
closed to visitors for a A$215 million 3-year restoration
project—to provide a nice sense of history among the
glass towers favored by modern architects.

Brisbane (pronounced Briz-bun), or just “Brizzie,” is one of those places
that people don’t always appreciate until they spend some time in it. But
you’ll usually find a welcome as warm as the weather. Friendly locals will
start chatting with just about anyone, and they’ll urge you to discover the
city, rich in history and character.

Brisbane is in the southeast corner of Queensland, flanked by the Sunshine
Coast, about 2 hours to the north, and the Gold Coast, 1 hour to the
south. The city is green and leafy: Moreton Bay fig trees give shade and, in
summer, the purple haze of jacarandas competes with the scarlet blaze of
poinciana trees. A mango tree in the backyard is practically de rigueur.

Brisbane is known for its timber “Queenslanders,” cottages and houses
set high on stumps to catch the breeze with wide verandas to keep out
the midday sun. In some suburbs, Queenslander houses have been converted
to trendy cafes, restaurants, and shops selling antiques, clothes,
and housewares.

Wander in the botanic gardens, in-line skate or bike along the riverfront
pathways, have a drink in a pub beer garden, or get out on the river
on a CityCat ferry. The Brisbane River flows into Moreton Bay, dotted
with beautiful islands to explore, and is crossed by several bridges. The
most famous and attractive among these is the Story Bridge, on the Town
Reach of the river. All in all, getting around here is cheap and easy, good
food—including fantastic seafood—is abundant, and accommodations
are affordable, especially in some of the city’s comfortable, elegant B&Bs.


ORIENTATION

Arriving

BY PLANE About 30 international airlines serve Brisbane from Europe, North
America, Asia, and New Zealand, including Qantas, Air New Zealand, Pacific Blue,
Singapore Airlines, Thai International, Malaysia Airlines, British Airways, United,
American Airlines, and Cathay Pacific. From North America, you can fly direct from
Los Angeles to Brisbane on Qantas, but from other places you will likely fly to Sydney
and connect on Qantas, or fly direct from Auckland, New Zealand.

Qantas (&13 13 13 in Australia; www.qantas.com.au) and its subsidiary QantasLink
(book through Qantas) operate daily flights from all state capitals (except
Hobart), Cairns, Townsville, and several other towns. No-frills Jetstar (& 13 15
38 in Australia; www.jetstar.com.au) has daily service from the Queensland centers
of Cairns, Rockhampton, Mackay, Townsville, Proserpine and Hamilton Island,
Melbourne’s Avalon airport, Adelaide, Darwin, Sydney, Newcastle, and Launceston
in Tasmania. Virgin Blue (&13 67 89 in Australia; www.virginblue.com.au) offers
direct services from all capital cities as well as Cairns, Townsville, Hamilton Island
and Proserpine in the Whitsundays, Mackay and Rockhampton in Queensland,
Launceston in Tasmania, and Newcastle in New South Wales. Tiger Airways
(&03/9335 3033; www.tigerairways.com.au) flies from Melbourne, Adelaide, and
Rockhampton.

Brisbane International Airport is 16km (10 miles) from the city, and the
domestic terminal is 2km (11.4 miles) farther away. The arrivals floor of the international
terminal, on Level 2, has a check-in counter for passengers transferring to
domestic flights and an information desk to meet all flights, help with flight inquiries,
dispense tourist information, and make hotel bookings. Travelex currencyexchange
bureaus are on the departures and arrivals floors. Avis (&07/3860 4200),
Budget (& 07/3860 4466), Europcar (& 07/3874 8150), Hertz (& 07/3860
4522), Thrifty (& 1300/367 227), and local company Red Spot Rentals (& 07/
3860 5766) have desks on Level 2. On levels 2, 3, and 4 you will find ATMs, free
showers, and baby-changing rooms. The domestic terminal has a Travelex currencyexchange
bureau, ATMs, showers, and the big four car-rental desks. For security
reasons, luggage lockers are not available at either terminal.

Coachtrans (& 07/3238 4700; www.coachtrans.com.au) runs a shuttle
between the airport and city hotels and the Roma Street Transit Centre every 30
minutes from 5am to 11pm. The one-way cost is A$14 adults and A$8 children ages
4 to 13. The round-trip fare is A$18 adults and A$16 children. Tickets for a family
of four cost A$72 or A$36 one-way. The trip takes about 40 minutes, and reservations
are not needed. No public buses serve the airport. A taxi to the city costs
around A$28 from the international terminal and A$33 from the domestic terminal,
plus A$3 for departing taxis.

Airtrain (&07/3216 3308; www.airtrain.com.au), a rail link between the city
and Brisbane’s domestic and international airport terminals, runs every 15 minutes
from around 6am to 8pm daily. Fares from the airport to city stations are A$15 per
adult one-way, A$27 round-trip; kids aged 14 and under travel free. The trip takes
about 20 minutes. The Airtrain fare between the international and domestic terminals
is A$5, unless you are traveling on Virgin or Pacific Blue flights, when it is free
upon showing your boarding pass. A taxi between terminals costs about A$10.

7
BRISBANE

Orientation

237


BRISBANE

Orientation

BY TRAIN Queensland Rail (& 1300/131 722 in Queensland; www.travel
train.com.au) operates several long-distance trains to Brisbane from Cairns. The
high-speed Tilt Train takes about 25 hours and costs A$310 for business class. The
slower Sunlander takes 32 hours and costs A$212 for a sitting berth, A$271 for an
economy-class sleeper, A$417 for a first-class sleeper, or A$761 for the all-inclusive
Queenslander class. Countrylink (& 13 22 32 in Australia; www.countrylink.
info) runs two daily train services to Brisbane from Sydney. The 7:15am departure
arrives in the town of Casino, south of the border, at 6:34pm, where passengers
transfer to a bus for the rest of the trip to Brisbane, arriving at 10:20pm. The trip
costs A$130 for an adult economy seat or A$174 for a first-class seat. The overnight
train, which leaves Sydney at 4:20pm and arrives in Brisbane at 6:30am the next day,
costs A$175 for a seat or an extra A$88 for a sleeper. Ask about off-peak discounts,
depending on the time of year.

All intercity and interstate trains pull into the city center’s Brisbane Transit
Centre at Roma Street, often called the Roma Street Transit Centre. From here,
most city and Spring Hill hotels are a few blocks’ walk or a quick cab ride away. The
station has food outlets, showers, tourist information, and lockers.

Queensland Rail CityTrain (&13 12 30 in Queensland) provides daily train
service from the Sunshine Coast and plentiful service from the Gold Coast.

BY BUS All intercity and interstate coaches pull into the Brisbane Transit Centre
(see “By Train,” above). Greyhound Australia (&1300/473 946 in Australia, or
07/3236 3035 for the Brisbane terminal; www.greyhound.com.au) serves the city
several times daily. A one-way Cairns-Brisbane ticket costs A$253; the trip takes
nearly 30 hours. The Sydney-Brisbane trip takes nearly 17 hours and costs A$126
one-way. Coachtrans provides daily service from the Gold Coast. Call Transinfo
(&13 12 30) for details.

BY CAR The Bruce Highway from Cairns enters the city from the north. The
Pacific Highway enters Brisbane from the south.

Visitor Information

The Brisbane Visitor Information Centre (& 07/3006 6290; www.visit
brisbane.com.au) is in the Queen Street Mall, between Edward and Albert streets.
It’s open Monday through Thursday from 9am to 5:30pm, Friday 9am to 7pm or
later, Saturday 9am to 5pm, Sunday and public holidays 9:30am to 4:30pm, and
from 1:30pm on Anzac Day (Apr 25). It’s closed Christmas Day and Good Friday.
The Brisbane City Council website, www.ourbrisbane.com, and the Brisbane
Transit Centre (&07/3236 2020) are other good sources of information.

City Layout

The city center’s office towers shimmer in the sun on the north bank of a curve of
the Brisbane River. At the tip of the curve are the lush Brisbane City Gardens (sometimes
called the City Botanic Gardens). The 30m (98-ft.) sandstone cliffs of Kangaroo
Point rise on the eastern side of the south bank; to the west are the South Bank
Parklands and the Queensland Cultural Centre, known as South Bank. The Goodwill
Bridge, for pedestrians and bikes only, links South Bank with the City Gardens,
while further along the river a new pedestrian bridge was under construction
at press time and will likely be completed before your visit. The Kurilpa Bridge


Greater Brisbane


BRISBANE
Orientation20
20
31
22
22
15
1
1
1
32 Brisbane
River
BrisbaneBrisbane
AirportAirport
ToowongToowong
CemeteryCemetery
BRISBANEBRISBANE
Ipswich RoadIps
wich RoadGreatGreatWesternWes
ternFreewayF
reeway
Centenary
CentenaryHwy.
Hwy.
FreewayFreeway
SouthEastMilton Rd.
Milton Rd.SirSamuelGriffithDr.
Brett's Brett's
WharfWharf
UniversityUniversityof Queenslandof Queensland
BULIMABULIMA
ALBIONALBION
NEWNEW
FARMFARM
KANGAROOKANGAROO
POINTPOINTCITYCITY
CENTRECENTRE
EASTEAST
BRISBANEBRISBANE
WOOLLOONGABBAWOOLLOONGABBA
SOUTHSOUTH
BRISBANEBRISBANE
WESTWEST
ENDEND
ST. LUCIAST. LUCIA
FERNYFERNY
HILLSHILLS
FERNYFERNY
GROVEGROVE
EVERTONEVERTON
PARKPARK
GORDONGORDON
PARKPARK
CHERMSIDECHERMSIDE
WESTWEST
CHERMSIDECHERMSIDE
GEEBUNGGEEBUNG
EAGLEEAGLE
JUNCTIONJUNCTION
WAVELLWAVELL
HEIGHTSHEIGHTS
MEEANDAHMEEANDAH
ASCOTASCOT
NORTHGATENORTHGATE
BANYOBANYO
NUDGEENUDGEE
NUDGEE
BUNYABUNYA
THE GAPTHE GAP
ENOGGERAENOGGERA
WILSTONWILSTON
GAYTHORNEGAYTHORNE
KELVINKELVIN
GROVEGROVEDORRINGTONDORRINGTON
CANNONCANNON
HILLHILLMORNINGSIDEMORNINGSIDE
NORMANNORMAN
PARKPARK CARINACARINA
HOLLANDHOLLAND
PARKPARK
MOUNTMOUNT
GRAVATTGRAVATT
UPPERUPPER
MOUNTMOUNT
GRAVATTGRAVATT
WISHARTWISHART
MANSFIELDMANSFIELD
MOOROOKAMOOROOKA
COOPERSSALISBURYSALISBURYNATHANNATHAN
TARRAGINDITARRAGINDI
FIG TREEFIG TREE
POCKETPOCKET
LONELONE
PINEPINE
ROCKLEAROCKLEA
SHERWOODSHERWOOD
CHELMERCHELMER
LONGLONG
POCKETPOCKET
INDOOROOPILLYINDOOROOPILLY
CHAPELCHAPEL
HILLHILL
KENMOREKENMORE
To the To the
Gold CoastGold Coast
To the Sunshine CoastTo the Sunshine Coast
Lutwyche RoadLutwyche Road
Coronation Dr.
Corona
tion Dr.
To the
Gold Coast
To the Sunshine Coast
Brisbane
Airport
Toowong
Cemetery
Brett's
Wharf
Universityof Queensland
BRISBANE
BULIMA
ALBION
NEW
FARM
KANGAROO
POINTCITY
CENTRE
EAST
BRISBANE
WOOLLOONGABBA
SOUTH
BRISBANE
WEST
END
ST. LUCIA
FERNY
HILLS
FERNY
GROVE
EVERTON
PARK
GORDON
PARK
CHERMSIDE
WEST
CHERMSIDE
GEEBUNG
EAGLE
JUNCTION
WAVELL
HEIGHTS
MEEANDAH
ASCOT
NORTHGATE
BANYO
NUDGEE
BUNYA
THE GAP
ENOGGERA
WILSTON
GAYTHORNE
KELVIN
GROVEDORRINGTON
CANNON
HILLMORNINGSIDE
NORMAN
PARK CARINA
HOLLAND
PARK
MOUNT
GRAVATT
UPPER
MOUNT
GRAVATT
WISHART
MANSFIELD
MOOROOKA
COOPERS
SALISBURY NATHAN
TARRAGINDI
FIG TREE
POCKET
LONE
PINE
ROCKLEA
SHERWOOD
CHELMER
LONG
POCKET
INDOOROOPILLY
CHAPEL
HILL
KENMORE Ipswich Road
GreatWesternFreeway
Centenary
Hwy.
Freeway
SouthEast
Milton Rd.SirSamuel GriffithDr.
Lutwyche Road
Coronation Dr.
4
1
2
3
Brisbane Botanic Gardens
Mt. Coot-tha 1
Sir Thomas Brisbane Planetarium
& Cosmic Skydome 2
Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary 3
Newstead House 4
1 mi0
0 1 km
AUSTRALIAA U S T R A L I AAUSTRALIA
CanberraCanberraPerthPerthBrisbaneBrisbaneDarwinDarwinSydneySydneyCanberra
Perth
Brisbane
Darwin
Sydney
MelbourneMelbourneMelbourne
7
links Tank Street, in the city center, with the Gallery of Modern Art at South Bank.
To the west 5km (3 miles), Mount Coot-tha (pronounced Coo-tha) looms out of the
flat plain.

MAIN ARTERIES & STREETS It’s easy to find your way around central Brisbane
once you know that the east-west streets are named after female British royalty,
and the north-south streets are named after their male counterparts. The northernmost
is Ann, followed by Adelaide, Queen, Elizabeth, Charlotte, Mary, Margaret,
and Alice. From east to west, the streets are Edward, Albert, George, and William,
which becomes North Quay, flanking the river’s northeast bank.

239


Queen Street, the main thoroughfare, becomes a pedestrian mall between
Edward and George streets. Roma Street exits the city diagonally to the northwest.
Ann Street leads all the way east into Fortitude Valley. The main street in Fortitude
Valley is Brunswick Street, which runs into New Farm.

STREET MAPS The Brisbane Map, free from the Brisbane Visitor Information
Centre (see “Visitor Information,” above) or your hotel concierge, is a lightweight
map that shows the river and suburbs as well as the city. It’s great for drivers because
it shows parking lots and one-way streets on the city grid. It can also be downloaded
from www.ourbrisbane.com. Rental cars usually come with street directories.
Newsdealers and some bookstores sell this map; the state auto club, the RACQ, in
the General Post Office, 261 Queen St. (&13 19 05), is also a good source.

Neighborhoods in Brief

BRISBANE

Neighborhoods in Brief

City Center The vibrant city center is
where residents eat, shop, and socialize.
Queen Street Mall, in the heart of town, is
popular with shoppers and moviegoers,
especially on weekends and Friday night
(when stores stay open until 9pm). The
Eagle Street financial and legal precinct has
great restaurants with river views and, on
Sunday, markets by the Riverside Centre
tower and the Pier. Much of Brisbane’s
colonial architecture is in the city center,
too. Strollers, bike riders, and in-line skaters
shake the summer heat in the green haven
of the Brisbane City Gardens at the business
district’s southern end.

Fortitude Valley “The Valley,” as locals call
it, was once one of the sleazier parts of
town. Today, it is a stamping ground for
street-smart young folk who meet in
restored pubs and eat in cool cafes. The
lanterns, food stores, and shopping mall of
Chinatown are here, too. Take Turbot Street
to the Valley’s Brunswick Street, or venture
a little farther to trendy James Street.

New Farm Always an appealing suburb,
New Farm is an in-spot for cafe-hopping.
Merthyr Street is where the action is, especially
on Friday and Saturday night. From
the intersection of Wickham and Brunswick
streets, follow Brunswick southeast for 13
blocks to Merthyr.

Paddington This hilltop suburb, a couple
of miles northwest of the city, is one of

Brisbane’s most attractive. Brightly
painted Queenslander cottages line the
main street, Latrobe Terrace, as it winds
west along a ridge top. Many of the
houses have been turned into shops and
cafes, where you can browse, enjoy coffee
and cake, or just admire the charming
architecture.

Milton & Rosalie Park Road, in Milton, is
not quite a little bit of Europe, but it tries
hard—right down to a replica Eiffel Tower
above the cafes and shops. Italian restaurants
line the street, buzzing with office
workers who down cappuccinos at
alfresco restaurants, scout interior design
stores for a new objet d’art to grace the
living room, and stock up on European
designer rags. A few minutes’ drive away,
Baroona Road and Nash Street, in Rosalie,
are catching up.

West End This small inner-city enclave is
alive with ethnic restaurants, cafes, and the
odd, interesting housewares or fashion
store. Most action centers on the intersection
of Vulture and Boundary streets, where
Asian grocers and delis abound.

Bulimba One of the emerging fashionable
suburbs, Bulimba has a long connection
with the river through the boat-building
industry. One of the nicest ways to get
there is by CityCat. Oxford Street is the
main drag, lined with trendy cafes and
shops.


GETTING AROUND

By Public Transportation

TransLink operates a single network of buses, trains, and ferries. For timetables
and route inquiries, call TransInfo (& 13 12 30; www.translink.com.au). It uses
an integrated ticket system, and the easiest place to buy your tickets is on the buses
and ferries or at the train stations. You can also buy tickets and pick up maps and
timetables at the Queen Street bus station information center (in the Myer Centre,
off Queen St. Mall) and the Brisbane Visitor Information Centre in the Queen
Street Mall. Tickets and electronic go-cards are also sold at some inner-city newsdealers
and 7-Eleven convenience stores.

A trip in a single sector or zone on the bus, train, or ferry costs A$3.40. A single
ticket is good for up to 2 hours on a one-way journey on any combination of bus,
train, or ferry. When traveling with a parent, kids under 5 travel free and kids 5 to
14 and students pay half fare. If you plan on using public transport a lot, it is worth
investing in a go-card, which gives discounted rates (you can also buy online and you
just top up the card balance as you need it). This would reduce the price of a onezone
one-way trip to A$2.65.

You will probably not need to travel farther than four zones on the transport system.
This will cost you the princely sum of A$5.30 each way. A 1-day ticket for four
zones will cost A$8.

On weekends and public holidays, it’s cheaper to buy an off-peak ticket, which
lets you travel all day for A$5.10 in the city center (one zone) for adults. The off-peak
ticket is also available on weekdays, but you must plan your sightseeing around the
fact that it cannot be used before 9am or between 3:30 and 7pm.

The Brisbane Mobility Map, produced by the Brisbane City Council, outlines
wheelchair access to buildings in the city center and includes a detailed guide to the
Queen Street Mall and a map of the Brisbane Botanic Gardens at Mount Coot-tha.
The council’s disability-services unit also has a range of publications, including a
Braille Trail and an access guide to parks, available from council customer service
centers (&07/3403 8888).

BY BUS Buses operate from around 5am to 11pm weekdays, with less service on
weekends. On Sunday, many routes stop around 5pm. Most buses depart from City
Hall at King George Square, Adelaide, or Ann Street. The Downtown Loop is a free
bus service that circles the city center. The Loop’s distinctive red buses run on two
routes, stopping at convenient places including Central Station, Queen Street Mall,
City Botanic Gardens, Riverside Centre, and King George Square. Look for the red
bus stops. They run every 10 minutes from 7am to 5:50pm Monday through Friday.
You can also pick up the free Spring Hill Loop bus, which runs every 10 minutes
from 8:10am to 6:05pm weekdays, and takes in 12 city-fringe locations including
Roma Street Parklands and the convict-built Old Observatory.

BY FERRY The fast CityCat ferries run to many places of interest, including
South Bank and the Queensland Cultural Centre; the restaurants and Sunday markets
at the Riverside Centre; and New Farm Park, not far from the cafes of Merthyr
Street. They run every half-hour between Queensland University, about 9km (51.2
miles) to the south, and Brett’s Wharf, about 9km (51.2 miles) to the north. Slower

7
BRISBANE

Getting

241


BRISBANE

Fast Facts: Brisbane

but more frequent CityFerry service (the Inner City and Cross River ferries) stops
at a few more points, including the south end of South Bank Parklands, Kangaroo
Point, and Edward Street right outside the Brisbane City Gardens. Ferries run from
around 6am to 10:30pm daily. Two hours on the CityCat takes you the entire length
of the run.

BY TRAIN Brisbane’s suburban rail network is fast, quiet, safe, and clean. Trains
run from around 5am to midnight (until about 11pm on Sun). All trains leave Central
Station, between Turbot and Ann streets at Edward Street.

By Car or Taxi

Brisbane’s grid of one-way streets can be confusing, so plan your route before you
leave. Brisbane’s biggest parking lot is at the Myer Centre (off Elizabeth St.), open
24 hours (&07/3229 1699). Most hotels and motels have free parking for guests.

Avis (&13 63 33 or 07/3221 2900), Budget (&1300/362 848 in Australia,
or 07/3220 0699), Europcar (& 13 13 90 in Australia, or 07/3006 7440), and
Hertz (& 13 30 39 or 07/3221 6166) all have outlets in the city center. Thrifty
(&1300/367 227 in Australia) is on the edge of the city center at 49 Barry Parade,
Fortitude Valley.

For a taxi, call Yellow Cabs (& 13 19 24 in Australia) or Black and White

Taxis (&13 10 08 in Australia). There are taxi stands at each end of Queen Street

Mall, on Edward Street and on George Street (outside the Treasury Casino).


BRISBANE

American Express The
office at 156 Adelaide St.
(& 1300/139 060) cashes
traveler’s checks,
exchanges foreign currency,
and replaces lost
traveler’s checks. It’s open
9am to 5pm Monday to
Friday and 9am to noon
Saturday.

Business Hours Banks
are open Monday through
Thursday from 9:30am to
4pm, until 5pm on Friday.
See “The Shopping Scene,”
later in this chapter, for
store hours. Some restaurants
close Monday night,
Tuesday night, or both;
bars are generally open
from 10 or 11am until
midnight.

Currency Exchange

Travelex, in the Myer Centre,
Queen Street Mall
(& 07/3210 6325; www.
travelex.com.au), is open
Monday through Thursday
from 9am to 5:30pm, Friday
9am to 8pm, Saturday
from 9am to 5pm, and
Sunday from 10am to 4pm.
Locations at the airport
are open whenever flights
are arriving, usually
between 5am and 12:30am.

Dentists The Dental
Centre, 171 Moray St., New
Farm (& 07/3358 1333), is
open 8am to 8pm weekdays
and 9am to 3pm
weekends and public holidays.
For after-hours
emergencies, call for
recorded info on who to
contact.

Doctors The Travel Doctor
(& 07/3221 9066;
www.thetraveldoctor.com.
au) is on Level 5 of the
Qantas building, 247 Adelaide
St., between Creek
and Edward streets. It is
open Monday and Friday
from 8am to 5pm, Tuesday
and Wednesday 8am to
7pm, Thursday 8am to
4:30pm, and Saturday
8:30am to 2pm. For afterhours
emergencies, call

& 0408/199 166.

Embassies & Consulates
The United States,
Canada, and New Zealand
have no representation in
Brisbane; see chapter 5,
“Sydney,” for those countries’
nearest offices. The
British Consulate is at
Level 26, Waterfront Place,


1 Eagle St. (& 07/3223
3200). It is open weekdays
from 10am to 3pm.

Emergencies Dial
& 000 for fire, ambulance,
or police help in an
emergency. This is a free
call from a private or public
telephone.

Hospitals The nearest
one is Royal Brisbane Hospital,
about a 15-minute
drive from the city at Herston
Road, Herston

(& 07/3636 8111).
Hot Lines Lifeline
(& 13 11 14) is a 24-hour

emotional crisis counseling
service.
Internet Access The

South Bank Visitor Information
Centre, Stanley
Street Plaza, South Bank
Parklands (& 07/3867
2051), offers Internet
access daily from 9am to
5pm and charges A$1 per
10 minutes. There are several
Internet cafes on Adelaide
Street, including the
Cyber Room, Level 1, 25
Adelaide St. (& 07/3012
9331).

Luggage Storage &
Lockers The Brisbane
Transit Centre on Roma
Street (& 1800/632 640)
has baggage lockers.
Medium-size lockers are
also available to hire at
South Bank Parklands, in
the Stanley Street Plaza
near Streets Beach. The
cost is A$4 for 3 hours or
A$8 for 6 hours storage.

Newspapers & Magazines
The Courier-Mail
(Mon–Sat) and the Sunday
Mail are Brisbane’s daily
newspapers. Another good
news source is the online
newspaper Brisbane Times
(www.brisbanetimes.com.
au). The free weekly Brisbane
News magazine is a
good guide to dining,
entertainment, and
shopping.

Pharmacies (Chemist
Shops) The Pharmacy on
the Mall, 141 Queen St.
(& 07/3221 4585), is
open Monday through
Thursday from 7am to
9pm, Friday from 7am to
9:30pm, Saturday from

8am to 9pm, Sunday from
8:30am to 6pm, and public
holidays from 9am to
7:30pm.

Police Dial & 000 in an
emergency, or & 07/3364
6464 for police headquarters.
Police are stationed 24
hours a day at 67 Adelaide
St. (& 07/3224 4444).

Safety Brisbane is relatively
crime free, but as in
any large city, be aware of
your personal safety, especially
when you’re out at
night. Stick to well-lit
streets and busy precincts.

Time Zone The time in
Brisbane is Greenwich
Mean Time plus 10 hours.
Brisbane does not observe
daylight saving time, which
means it’s on the same
time as Sydney and Melbourne
in winter, and 1
hour behind those cities
October through March.
For the exact local time,
call & 1194.

Weather Call & 1196 for
the southeast Queensland
weather forecast.

7
BRISBANE

Where to
Stay

WHERE TO STAY

In the City Center

VERY EXPENSIVE

Emporium Hotel


With its zebra-skin chairs, frangipani motifs, rich fabrics
and colors, huge antique chandelier, and French stained glass window in the
cocktail bar, this is Brisbane’s grooviest and most eclectic hotel. Opened in 2007, it
has luxury touches such as bathrobes and slippers, a pillow menu, and a pampering
menu. The whole place oozes modern elegance. Kitchens—cunningly hidden from
view—are standard in all rooms and have a small dishwasher as well as a microwave.
There is one suite designed for guests with disabilities, at standard room rates.

1000 Ann St. Brisbane, QLD 4006. &1300/883 611 in Australia, or 07/3253 6999. Fax 07/3253 6966.
www.emporiumhotel.com.au. 102 units, 42 with spa baths. A$230 double standard room; A$250 double
King suite; A$270 double King Spa suite; A$420 double Emporium suite; A$445 double Deluxe

243


Brisbane Accommodations, Dining & Attractions


BRISBANE
Where to
Stay
1
1
Riverside
SPRING HILLKANGAROOPOINTFORTITUDEVALLEYBOWENHILLSBrisbane Transit Centre(Roma St. Station)
CentralRailwayStationRiversideCentreAlt
Alt
To NewFarmTo NewsteadALBERT PARKWICKHAMPARKVICTORIA PARKROMA ST.PARKLANDAlbert
St.
Creek St.
Wharf St.
Bounda
ry St.
Leichhardt
St. Pauls Terrace
Brunswick St.
Gregory TerraceTurbot St.
Ann St.
Queen St.
Upper Edward St.
Astor TerraceFortescue St.
Little Edward St.
Rogers St.
Barry ParadeMcLachlan St.
Robertson St.Arthur St.HarcourtSt.
James St.
Gipps St.
Gotha St.
HolmanSt.
Wharf St.
Boundary St.
Wickham
TerraceSt. Pauls TerraceWater St.St.
Bradfield Highway
Wickham
TerraceGregory
Terrace
WarryKennigo
WaterAmelia
PhillipsWickhamSt.
H a r t l e y S t .
StoryBridgeAnzacSquareChinatownMallBrunswickSt. MallSPRING HILL
KANGAROOPOINT
FORTITUDEVALLEY
BOWENHILLS
Brisbane Transit Centre(Roma St. Station)
CentralRailwayStation
RiversideCentre
Alt
Alt
To NewFarm
To Newstead
ALBERT PARK
WICKHAMPARK
VICTORIA PARKROMA ST.PARKLAND
Albert
St.
Creek St.Wharf St.
Boundary St.
Leichhardt
St. Pauls Terrace
Brunswick St.
Gregory Terrace
Turbot St.
Ann St.
Queen St.
Upper Edward St.
Astor Terrace
Fortescue St.
Little Edward St.
Rogers St.
Barry Parade
McLachlan St.
Robertson St.Arthur St.
Harcourt St.
James St.
Gipps St.
Gotha St.
HolmanSt.
Wharf St.
Boundary St.Wickham Terrace
St. Pauls Terrace
Water St.St.
Bradfield Highway
Wickham
Terrace
Gregory
Terrace
WarryKennigo
WaterAmelia
Phillips
WickhamSt.
Hartle y St.
StoryBridge
AnzacSquare
ChinatownMallBrunswickSt. Mall
7
6
4
5
11
9
3
8
ACCOMMODATIONSEmporium Hotel
2
Eton
11Hotel George Williams(YMCA)
14Hotel Ibis Brisbane
13
The Limes
1Novotel Brisbane
9
One Thornbury
5
Portal Hotel
10Quay West Suites
23
Stamford PlazaBrisbane
21
DININGe'cco bistro
6
Gianni’s
22Govinda's
24
Jo Jo's
16Plough Inn
29Story Bridge Hotel
19
Tognini'sBistroCafeDeli
7Walt Moden Dining
4
18
1
2
10
1/4 mi00
1/4 kmAUSTRALIAA
U
S
T
R
A
L
I
AAUSTRALIACanberraCanberraPerthPerthBrisbaneBrisbaneDarwinDarwinSydneySydneyCanberra
Perth
BrisbaneDarwinSydneyMelbourneMelbourneMelbourne

BRISBANE
Where to
StayF3
F3
1
Eagle St. PierEdward St.
RiverPlaza
Q.U.T.GardensPointOld SouthBankSouthBank
NorthQuay
PETRIETERRACESOUTH BRISBANEBrisbane
RiverParliamentHouseGeneralPost OfficeCity HallAlt
MyerCentreBrisbane Convention& Exhibition CentreSouth BrisbaneRailwayStationWoolloongabbaCricket GroundTo St. LuciaTo Milton& RosalieTo PaddingtonTo West EndSOUTH BANKPARKLANDSMUSGRAVEPARKQUEENSGARDENSNorth Quay
William St.
George St.
Rom a
St.
Adelaide St.
Charlotte St.
MarySt.Margaret St.Alice St.
Eagle St.
Main St. (Kangaroo Point)
MarkerstonSt.
Herschell St.Tank St.
Peel St.
Russell St.
Glenelg St.Ernest St.
Tribune St.
Vult
u
re
S
t .
Hope St.
Merivale St. Cordelia St.
Edmonstone St.
Colchester St.
Bright St.ThorntonSt.
Cairns St.
River TerraceLeopard St.
Riverside
Expressway
AlbertSt.
PearsonThomasBell
SinclairShafston Ave.
Elizabeth St.
Grey St.Melbourne St.
CityPlazaKingGeorgeSquareVictoriaBridgeWilliam JollyBridgeCapt.CookBridgeGoodwillPedestrianCycle BridgeTreasuryCasinoCITYCENTERBRISBANE CITYGARDENSStanley PlaceStanley PlaceKurilpaKurilpaBridgeBridgeKurilpaKurilpaParkParkCITYCENTER
PETRIETERRACE
SOUTH BRISBANE
Brisbane
RiverParliamentHouseGeneralPost OfficeCity Hall
Alt
MyerCentre
Brisbane Convention& Exhibition CentreSouth BrisbaneRailwayStation
WoolloongabbaCricket Ground
TreasuryCasino
To St. LuciaTo Milton& RosalieTo PaddingtonTo West End
SOUTH BANKPARKLANDSMUSGRAVEPARK
BRISBANE CITYGARDENS
QUEENSGARDENS
KurilpaParkStanley Place
North Quay
William St.
George St.
Roma St.
Adelaide St.
Charlotte St.
MarySt.Margaret St.Alice St.
Eagle St.
Main St. (Kangaroo Point)
MarkerstonSt.
Herschell St.Tank St.
Peel St.
Russell St.
Glenelg St.
Ernest St.
Tribune St.
V
ulture St.
Hope St.
Merivale St.
Cordelia St.
Edmonstone St.
Colchester St.
Bright St.ThorntonSt.
Cairns St.
River TerraceLeopard St.
Riverside
ExpresswayAlbert St.
PearsonThomasBellSinclairShafston Ave.
Elizabeth St.
Grey St. Melbourne St.
CityPlaza
KingGeorgeSquare
VictoriaBridge
William JollyBridge
Capt.CookBridge
GoodwillPedestrianCycle Bridge
KurilpaBridge
16
24
14
13
21
23
27
26
25
ATTRACTIONSCity Hall
15Museum of Brisbane
17
Newstead House
3
QueenslandArt Gallery
25Queensland CulturalCentre/QueenslandPerforming ArtsComplex
27Queensland Gallery ofModern Art
12Queensland Museum
26
Riverlife AdventureCentre
20St. John's AnglicanCathedral
8
Story BridgeAdventure Climb
18
15
19
12
20
22
17
Cross RiverCityCatCityFerryInformation
F3
F3
1
Eagle St. PierEdward St.
RiverPlaza
Q.U.T.GardensPointOld SouthBankSouthBank
NorthQuay
PETRIETERRACESOUTH BRISBANEBrisbane
RiverParliamentHouseGeneralPost OfficeCity HallAlt
MyerCentreBrisbane Convention& Exhibition CentreSouth BrisbaneRailwayStationWoolloongabbaCricket GroundTo St. LuciaTo Milton& RosalieTo PaddingtonTo West EndSOUTH BANKPARKLANDSMUSGRAVEPARKQUEENSGARDENSNorth Quay
William St.
George St.
Rom a
St.
Adelaide St.
Charlotte St.
MarySt.Margaret St.Alice St.
Eagle St.
Main St. (Kangaroo Point)
MarkerstonSt.
Herschell St.Tank St.
Peel St.
Russell St.
Glenelg St.Ernest St.
Tribune St.
Vult
u
re
S
t .
Hope St.
Merivale St. Cordelia St.
Edmonstone St.
Colchester St.
Bright St.ThorntonSt.
Cairns St.
River TerraceLeopard St.
Riverside
Expressway
AlbertSt.
PearsonThomasBell
SinclairShafston Ave.
Elizabeth St.
Grey St.Melbourne St.
CityPlazaKingGeorgeSquareVictoriaBridgeWilliam JollyBridgeCapt.CookBridgeGoodwillPedestrianCycle BridgeTreasuryCasinoCITYCENTERBRISBANE CITYGARDENSStanley PlaceStanley PlaceKurilpaKurilpaBridgeBridgeKurilpaKurilpaParkParkCITYCENTER
PETRIETERRACE
SOUTH BRISBANE
Brisbane
RiverParliamentHouseGeneralPost OfficeCity Hall
Alt
MyerCentre
Brisbane Convention& Exhibition CentreSouth BrisbaneRailwayStation
WoolloongabbaCricket Ground
TreasuryCasino
To St. LuciaTo Milton& RosalieTo PaddingtonTo West End
SOUTH BANKPARKLANDSMUSGRAVEPARK
BRISBANE CITYGARDENS
QUEENSGARDENS
KurilpaParkStanley Place
North Quay
William St.
George St.
Roma St.
Adelaide St.
Charlotte St.
MarySt.Margaret St.Alice St.
Eagle St.
Main St. (Kangaroo Point)
MarkerstonSt.
Herschell St.Tank St.
Peel St.
Russell St.
Glenelg St.
Ernest St.
Tribune St.
V
ulture St.
Hope St.
Merivale St.
Cordelia St.
Edmonstone St.
Colchester St.
Bright St.ThorntonSt.
Cairns St.
River TerraceLeopard St.
Riverside
ExpresswayAlbert St.
PearsonThomasBellSinclairShafston Ave.
Elizabeth St.
Grey St. Melbourne St.
CityPlaza
KingGeorgeSquare
VictoriaBridge
William JollyBridge
Capt.CookBridge
GoodwillPedestrianCycle Bridge
KurilpaBridge
16
24
14
13
21
23
27
26
25
ATTRACTIONSCity Hall
15Museum of Brisbane
17
Newstead House
3
QueenslandArt Gallery
25Queensland CulturalCentre/QueenslandPerforming ArtsComplex
27Queensland Gallery ofModern Art
12Queensland Museum
26
Riverlife AdventureCentre
20St. John's AnglicanCathedral
8
Story BridgeAdventure Climb
18
15
19
12
20
22
17
Cross RiverCityCatCityFerryInformation
7
245


BRISBANE

Where to
Stay

corner suite. Ask about packages. AE, DC, MC, V. Valet parking A$25 per day. Amenities: Restaurant;
bar; concierge; exercise room; outdoor heated lap pool; room service; sauna. In room: A/C, TV/VCR w/
pay movies, hair dryer, kitchenette, minibar, Wi-Fi (A$10 for 1 hr., A$20 for 24 hr., A$45 for 3 days).

Quay West Suites Brisbane


When the business folk go home on Fridays,
they leave available this glamorous apartment hotel, just 4 blocks from Queen Street
Mall; you’ll find excellent packages here. The apartments have all the amenities of
a five-star hotel—daily servicing, concierge, 24-hour room service, bar and restaurant
with a lovely outdoor terrace—and their own laundry facilities, dining areas,
separate bedrooms, and fully equipped kitchens. Pamper yourself in the pool or
Jacuzzi, relax in the sauna, then head back to your apartment, get into your bathrobe,
gaze over the Botanic Gardens, read the free newspaper, and turn up the CD player
or watch one of the two TVs.
132 Alice St. (btw. Albert and George sts.), Brisbane, QLD 4000. &1800/672 726 in Australia, or
07/3853 6000. Fax 07/3853 6060. www.mirvachotels.com/quay-west-suites-brisbane. 70 apts. A$515
1-bedroom apt; A$630 2-bedroom apt. Extra person A$50. Ask about special packages. AE, DC, MC, V.
Covered secure valet parking A$20. Bus: Downtown Loop. Ferry: Edward St. (Inner City and Cross River
Ferry); or Riverside (CityCat); then a 10-min. stroll. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; concierge; gymnasium;
Jacuzzi; outdoor pool; room service; sauna. In room: A/C, TV w/in-house movies, CD player, hair dryer,
Internet (A$10 per hr., A$20 for 24 hr., A$45 for 3 days, A$60 for 7 days), kitchen, minibar.

Stamford Plaza Brisbane


The Stamford is one of Brisbane’s most beautiful
hotels: comfy oversize chairs and sofas, enormous still-life oils, gilt mirrors, and
palms dot the marble lobby. It prides itself on being the only city hotel with river
views from every room—especially stunning from the southern rooms at night, when
the Story Bridge lights up. The plush rooms were refurbished in mid-2009 and are
also the largest in Brisbane, all with a king-size or twin beds. What must be the biggest
bathrooms in town sport small TVs. A riverside boardwalk leads from the hotel
to the Eagle Street Pier restaurants, and the Brisbane City Botanical Gardens abut
the hotel.

Edward and Margaret sts. (adjacent to the Brisbane City Botanical Gardens), Brisbane, QLD 4000.
&1800/773 700 in Australia, or 07/3221 1999. Fax 07/3221 6895. www.stamford.com.au. 252 units.
A$245–A$650 double; A$690–A$3,500 suite. Extra person A$40. Children 11 and under stay free in
parent’s room. Ask about packages. AE, DC, MC, V. Covered parking. Train: Central; then taxi or walk 6
blocks. Bus: Downtown Loop. Ferry: Riverside Centre, Eagle St. Amenities: 3 restaurants; 3 bars; babysitting;
bikes; concierge; health club; Jacuzzi; small outdoor heated lap pool; room service; sauna.
In room: A/C, TV w/pay movies, DVD, hair dryer, minibar, MP3 docking station, Wi-Fi (A60. per min. for
40 min.; A$25 per day).

EXPENSIVE
The Limes Hotel



The first Australian hotel to be part of Design Hotels, the
Limes considers itself “backstreet boutique.” There are no frills or frippery, but that
doesn’t mean it’s not stylish, interesting, and functional, designed with an eye to
what travelers want. Three rooms on the ground floor have courtyards with hammocks
and a table and chairs; all are practical in design, with a kitchen area that
doubles as a work station. The hotel bar is also home to a popular 30-seat rooftop
cinema (and an area for smokers on the mezzanine), and a guest swipe card for lift
access assures security.
142 Constance St., Fortitude Valley, Brisbane, QLD 4006. &07/3852 9000. Fax 07/3852 9099. www.
limeshotel.com.au. 21 units, all with shower only. A$440 double; A$550 double courtyard rooms. AE,
DC, MC, V. Train: Brunswick St. Parking A$10 per day (nearby). Amenities: Bar; free access to nearby
health club. In room: A/C, TV w/pay movies, hair dryer, kitchenette, MP3 docking station, free Wi-Fi.


Novotel Brisbane


This well-appointed contemporary hotel, a short walk from
Brisbane’s main shopping areas, is popular with families and business travelers. The
modern, stylish rooms and suites are spacious and have superb views over the city.
The lap pool is very inviting and has terrific city views. There’s live music in the
Spring Bar, and you can choose between the upmarket Cilantro restaurant or the
more casual eat@astor cafe. All rooms are nonsmoking.
200 Creek St., Brisbane, QLD 4000. & 1300/656 565 in Australia, 800/221-4542 in the U.S. and
Canada, 0870/609 0961 in the U.K., 0800/44 4422 in New Zealand, or 07/3309 3309. Fax 07/3309
3308. www.novotelbrisbane.com.au. 296 units. A$199–A$349 double. Children 15 and under stay free in
parent’s room with existing bedding. Free crib. Ask about packages. AE, DC, MC, V. Free covered parking.
Train: Central. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; babysitting; concierge; gymnasium; outdoor pool;
room service; sauna. In room: A/C, TV w/pay movies, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (some floors only; 55.
per min. or A$28 for 24 hr.).

MODERATE
Eton


This heritage-listed colonial cottage, not far from the Brisbane Transit
Centre, has five rooms and an attic suite that sleeps three, all with en-suite bathrooms.
The attic suite is a self-contained apartment with its own entrance and
kitchen. Room no. 1, at the front of the house, is my pick—it has a claw-foot tub
and king-size bed. Out in the back is a garden courtyard, where you can have breakfast
among the palms, ferns, and frangipani trees. There’s a guest laundry and
kitchen. There’s no smoking indoors and children under 4 are not allowed.

436 Upper Roma St., Brisbane, QLD 4000. &07/3236 0115. www.babs.com.au/eton. 6 units, 5 with
shower only. A$125–A$145 double; A$595 apt weekly. Extra person A$25. Rates include breakfast
(except apt). AE, MC, V. Limited free parking. Train: Roma St. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (A$5
per day).

Hotel George Williams


This smart, great value YMCA hotel is a good
budget choice for inner-city stays. Rooms are small but some can sleep up to four
adults. Queen terrace rooms have a small sheltered balcony with table and chairs.
Among the useful facilities are a 24-hour front desk and business center, and safedeposit
boxes. Hair dryers are available on request. Guests have access to the YMCA
Wellness Studio, the largest hotel gym in Australia, which offers aerobics classes,
personal trainers, and massage (for an extra fee). Several rooms are designed for
guests with disabilities, and there is also easy access to the gym.

317–325 George St. (btw. Turbot and Ann sts.), Brisbane, QLD 4000. &1800/064 858 in Australia, or
07/3308 0700. Fax 07/3308 0733. www.hgw.com.au. 106 units, most with shower only. A$195–A$280
double. Extra person A$30. Children 3 and under stay free in parent’s room. Ask about packages. AE,
DC, MC, V. Limited parking, A$20 per night. Train: Roma St. Bus: Downtown Loop. Ferry: North Quay
(CityCat or CityFerry). Amenities: Restaurant; bar; health club. In room: A/C, TV, Wi-Fi (A$4.40 for 30
min. to A$22 for 24 hr.).

Hotel Ibis Brisbane


You get what you pay for at this AAA three-and-a-halfstar
sister property to the Novotel Brisbane (see above). In this case, it is basically a
comfortable room, with few amenities you might expect in a large hotel. But if you
don’t mind doing without river views, porters, a pool, or other small luxuries, this
could be the place for you. The hotel has rooms—renovated in 2008 to the tune of
A$1.5 million and much larger than those in most hotels of this standard—furnished
in contemporary style, with sizable work desks and small but smart bathrooms.
Facilities include 24-hour reception and storage lockers, and guests can also use the
restaurant and bar at the adjoining Mercure Hotel.
7
BRISBANE

Where to
Stay

247


BRISBANE

Where to
Stay

27–35 Turbot St. (btw. North Quay and George St.), Brisbane, QLD 4000. &1300/656 565 in Australia,
800/221-4542 in the U.S. and Canada, 020/8283 4500 in the U.K., 0800/44 4422 in New Zealand,
or 07/3237 2333. Fax 07/3237 2444. www.accorhotels.com.au. 218 units. From A$149 double. Extra
person A$36. One child 11 or under stays free in parent’s room with existing bedding. Ask about packages.
AE, DC, MC, V. Parking (at the Mercure Hotel) A$14. Train: Roma St. Bus: Downtown Loop. Ferry:
North Quay (CityCat or CityFerry). Amenities: Restaurant; bar; babysitting. In room: A/C, TV w/pay
movies, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (A$28 for 24 hr.).

One Thornbury


A 15-minute walk to Spring Hill from the city center
brings you to this 1886 Queenslander cottage on a quiet street. The heritage-listed
exterior belies a chic modern interior, where everything was refurbished and
renewed in 2008, right down to the mattresses and new bathrooms for each room.
The attic suite sleeps three and has two bedrooms, a dining and sitting room, and a
bathroom. Fresh flowers, bathrobes, extra large fluffy towels, and handmade soap
are among the thoughtful extras. Breakfast is served in the cool, restful courtyard,
where you can help yourself to tea, coffee, cookies, and the newspaper any time of
day. The airport bus stops at the front door. This establishment is not suitable for
children.

1 Thornbury St., Spring Hill, Brisbane, QLD 4000. &07/3839 5334. www.onethornbury.com. 6 units, 5
with shower only. A$140–A$190 double. Rates include breakfast. AE, MC, V. Limited free parking. Train:
Central. Amenities: Access to nearby pools, golf club, and health club; free Internet. In room: A/C, TV,
hair dryer, no phone.

Portal Hotel


The standard rooms are just big enough to swing a cat, but the
location is terrific and there’s a nice modern edge to this new (2009) hotel just on
the city fringe. Executive rooms are bigger, and a suite has a self-contained kitchen,
a lounge chair with a 42-inch TV, and a bathtub to soak in. Parking—even just while
you check in—can be a problem on the street outside, and there’s only one dropping-
off space at the hotel, which can be tricky.
52 Astor Terrace, Spring Hill, QLD 4000. &1300/767 825 in Australia or 07/3009 3400. Fax 07/3009
3410. www.portalhotel.com.au. 84 units. A$249–A$299 double. AE, DC, MC, V. Valet parking. Train:
Central. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; room service. In room: A/C, TV, CD player, hair dryer, MP3 docking
station, Wi-Fi.

In Paddington

Aynsley B&B


In a quiet street just off the main shopping and restaurant
strip in Paddington, this restored 1905 Queenslander house retains most of its original
features, such as leadlight windows, tongue-and-groove walls, high ceilings, and
polished timber floors. The two air-conditioned guest bedrooms are nicely furnished
and have good quality, comfy mattresses. Each has its own en-suite bathroom. Your
hosts, Gena and Garth Evans, have been in the B&B business for many years and
know how to look after their guests. A rear deck on both levels overlooks mango
trees, busy with birdlife, and it’s hard to believe you are only 3km (2 miles) from the
city center. There’s also a large swimming pool and a guest laundry. No smoking
indoors.

14 Glanmire St., Paddington, Brisbane, QLD 4064. & 07/3368 2250 or 0417/482 021 mobile. Fax
07/3368 2250. www.aynsley.com.au. 2 units, both with shower only. A$155–A$195 double. Weekly rates
available. Rates include full breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Free off-street parking. Bus: 375 or 377; stop 200m
(656 ft.) away. Amenities: Outdoor pool. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, free Internet.


WHERE TO DINE


Brisbane has a fairly sophisticated dining scene: Stylish bistros and cafes line Merthyr
Street and James Street in New Farm; cute cafes are plentiful in Paddington;
Asian eateries are a good choice around the intersection of Vulture Street and
Boundary Street in West End; and in Fortitude Valley, you’ll find Chinatown. A
street full of upscale but laid-back restaurants, many with a Mediterranean flavor,
sits under the kitsch replica Eiffel Tower on Park Road in Milton, and in the city
center you can find slick riverfront restaurants at Eagle Street Pier and Riverside.
The intersection of Albert and Charlotte streets buzzes with inexpensive, goodquality
cafes.

In the City Center

EXPENSIVE
e’cco bistro


CONTEMPORARY E’cco means “here it is” in Italian, and
that’s the philosophy behind the food at this award-winning bistro. It serves simple
food, done exceptionally well and with passion. In a former tea warehouse on the
city fringe, it’s one of Australia’s best. Dishes include such delights as roast spatchcock
with sweet corn risotto, tomato pickle, chile, and spring onion; or seared ocean
trout with shaved fennel, zucchini flowers, pickled red onion, and a soft herb beurre
blanc. The bistro is enormously popular, and bookings are essential. Large windows,
bold colors, and modern furniture make it a pleasant setting. There’s an extensive
wine list—many by the glass. A simple pricing structure has all items for each course
at the same price.

100 Boundary St. (at Adelaide St.). &07/3831 8344. Fax 07/3831 8460. www.eccobistro.com. Reservations
required. Main courses A$43. AE, DC, MC, V. Tues–Fri noon–2:30pm; Tues–Sat 6–10pm. Metered
street parking or nearby parking buildings.

Gianni’s


MEDITERRANEAN Whether you choose the more formal and
private mezzanine floor, or the relaxed courtyard dining area, you’re sure to enjoy this
contemporary European-flavored restaurant. Gianni’s has garnered a sheaf of awards
and is acknowledged as one of Brisbane’s best. The mezzanine has a climate-controlled
wine cellar, presided over by co-owner Gianni Greghini, where you can select
your wine. The food is a blend of European and Californian styles, and is always
delicious and interesting. It changes fortnightly, but dishes might include something
like lobster bisque infused with coconut and lemongrass and Mooloolaba prawns; or
free-range chicken deglace with sherry, polenta, and borlotti beans.

12 Edward St. & 07/3221 7655. www.giannisrestaurant.com. Reservations recommended. Main
courses A$35–A$42; 4-course degustation menu A$85 (A$135 with wine); 6-course degustation menu
A$110 (A$185 with wine). AE, DC, MC, V. Tues–Fri noon–2:30pm; Tues–Sat 6:30–10:30pm. Metered
street parking or nearby parking buildings.

Watt Modern Dining


MODERN AUSTRALIAN With a menu of modern
fare with Asian, Middle Eastern, and European influences and a terrific wine list,
Watt is one of my favorite places to eat out in Brisbane—partly because of the
riverside setting in New Farm Park, and partly because of the great food. Whether
it’s for a leisurely weekend breakfast, lunch, or dinner before a show at the Brisbane
Powerhouse, dishes are always interesting, such as lamb rump with spiced
yoghurt, smoky eggplant, and sumac; or snapper with wild rice, braised cuttlefish,

7
BRISBANE

Where to Dine

249


BRISBANE

Where to Dine

and preserved lemon aioli. Dine at 6pm and you can get two courses (from a limited
menu) for A$45.

Brisbane Powerhouse, 119 Lamington St. (near the river), New Farm. &07/3358 5464. www.aihgroup.
com.au. Reservations recommended. Main courses A$31–A$49. AE, DC, MC, V. Lunch Tues–Sun from
noon; dinner Tues–Sat from 6pm; Sat–Sun breakfast 8–10:30am. Ample free parking.

MODERATE
Jo Jo’s INTERNATIONAL/CAFE FARE A spectacular timber, limestone, and
glass bar dominates the center of this casual cafe-style eating spot, housing more than
1,000 bottles of wine. Three menus—chargrill, Oriental, and Mediterranean—are
available, and the locals have dropped in here for years for a shopping pit stop or a
postcinema meal. The food is well priced and good. You order at the bar and meals are
delivered to the table (try to get one on the balcony overlooking the Queen St. Mall).
Among your options are steaks and seafood from the grill; curries and stir-fries from the
Oriental menu; and Mediterranean pastas, antipasto, and wood-fired-oven pizzas.

1st floor, Queen St. Mall, at Albert St. &07/3221 2113. www.jojos.com.au. Main courses A$17–A$38. AE,
DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 10am–midnight; Sat–Sun 11am–midnight. Train or bus: Central.

INEXPENSIVE
Govinda’s



VEGETARIAN If you’re on a budget, or a committed vegetarian,
seek out the Hare Krishnas’ chain of Govinda restaurants. This one serves vegetable
curry, dal soup, samosas, and other tasty stuff with a north-Indian influence. The atmosphere
is pretty spartan, but the food is very satisfying. This is a stimulant-free zone, so
don’t come expecting alcohol, tea, or coffee—you’re likely to get something like homemade
ginger and mint lemonade instead. On the first Sunday of every month, there is
a “feast” at 5pm for A$5—along with lectures, chanting, and meditation.
99 Elizabeth St. (opposite Myer Centre), 2nd floor. &07/3210 0255. www.brisbanegovindas.com.au.
A$10 all-you-can-eat; A$9 students and seniors, A$6 students 2–3pm only. No credit cards. Mon–Thurs
11am–3pm and 5–7:30pm; Fri 11am–8:30pm; Saturday 11am–2:30pm. Bus: Downtown Loop.

In Spring Hill

Tognini’s BistroCafeDeli MODERN AUSTRALIAN Owners Mark and Narelle
Tognini run this relaxed modern bistro, incorporating an extensive deli and walk-in
cheese room. Popular with inner-city dwellers and business folk, it serves gourmet
delights to eat in or take out. Sit at one of the communal tables and try the spaghetti
with chile prawns or perhaps a corned beef sandwich with caramelized cabbage,
Swiss cheese, and cornichons. They also offer a breakfast menu and a brunch menu
on Saturdays. There’s another Tognini’s CafeDeli at Baroona Road, Milton, and
Tognini’s CafeWineBar at the State Library at South Bank.

Turbot and Boundary sts., Spring Hill. &07/3831 5300. Fax 07/3831 5311. www.togninis.com. Reservations
not accepted. Main courses A$15–A$23. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 7am–5pm; Sat 8am–2:30pm.

In Mount Coot-tha

The Summit


MODERN AUSTRALIAN It would be hard to find a better
view of Brisbane than from this spot. A teahouse of some kind has been on this
mountaintop for more than a century. Part 19th-century Queenslander house and
part modern extension, the restaurant has wraparound covered decks with a view of
the city and Moreton Bay. A changing menu features local produce and wines. Try
saltwater barramundi filet, or grilled Queensland Hereford tenderloin beef with a


Moreton Bay bug. The early bird offer—A$34 for three courses if you finish by
7pm—is available starting at 5pm. There’s also a kids’ menu of two courses for A$17
(for those under 12). When you’ve finished dining, spend some time on the observation
deck—the city lights provide a glittering panorama.

Sir Samuel Griffith Dr., Mt. Coot-tha. &07/3369 9922. Fax 07/3369 8937. www.brisbanelookout.com.
Reservations recommended Fri–Sat night. Main courses A$28–A$38. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11:30am–midnight;
Sun brunch 8–10:30am. Closed for lunch Jan 1, Good Friday, Dec 26; closed for dinner Dec 25.
Free parking. Bus: 471. From Roma St. Transit Centre, take Upper Roma St. and Milton Rd. 3.5km (21.

4
miles) west to the Western Fwy. roundabout at Toowong Cemetery, veer right into Sir Samuel Griffith
Dr., and go approximately 3km (2 miles).

In East Brisbane

Green Papaya


NORTH VIETNAMESE Clean, fresh, and simple dishes
have been the hallmark of this popular restaurant since it opened 13 years ago. Chef
Thang Nguyen has been at the helm in the kitchen for the past 10 years, and the
menu changes very little. There are two chic, cheerful rooms, usually crowded with
a faithful clientele. If you don’t know your bo xao cay ngot (spicy beef) from your nom
du du (green papaya salad), the helpful staff willingly gives advice. The restaurant is
licensed, but you can bring your own bottled wine (no beer or spirits) for a corkage
charge of A$6 per bottle. The restaurant also does takeout.

898 Stanley St. E (at Potts St., 1 block from Woolloongabba Cricket Ground), East Brisbane. &07/3217
3599. www.greenpapaya.com.au. Reservations recommended. Main courses A$21–A$38; banquet
menus (for minimum of 4 people) A$55–A$65. AE, DC, MC, V. Tues–Sat 6–9:30pm. Closed Good Friday
and Dec 25 to early Jan. Parking at rear of restaurant and on street. Train: Woolloongabba.

In Albion

Breakfast Creek Hotel


STEAK A A$4.5-million renovation and restoration in
2002 gave fresh life to this Brisbane treasure. Built in 1889 and listed by the
National Trust, the Renaissance-style pub is fondly known as the Brekky Creek—or
simply the Creek. The quintessentially Queensland establishment is famed for its
gigantic steaks (choose your own), served with baked potato, bacon sauce, coleslaw,
and salad, and for serving beer “off the wood” (from the keg). Also on the premises,
the Spanish Garden Steakhouse and the Staghorn beer garden are always
popular, and an outdoor dining area overlooks Breakfast Creek. The Substation
No. 41 bar, created in the shell of a derelict electricity substation next to the hotel,
makes the most of its exposed brick walls and soaring ceilings. The 4.5m-long (15ft.)
wooden bar is just the place to sip the latest cocktail.
2 Kingsford Smith Dr. (at Breakfast Creek Rd.), Albion. &07/3262 5988. www.breakfastcreekhotel.
com. Main courses A$19–A$46. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 10am–late. Substation 141 daily noon–late. Bus: 300
or 322. Wickham St. becomes Breakfast Creek Rd.; the hotel is just off the route to the airport.

EXPLORING BRISBANE

Cuddling a Koala & Other Top Attractions

Brisbane Botanic Gardens at Mount Coot-tha These 52-hectare (128-acre)
gardens at the base of Mount Coot-tha feature Aussie natives and exotic plants you
probably won’t see at home. There’s an arid zone, a Tropical Dome conservatory
housing rainforest plants, a cactus house, a bonsai house, fragrant plants, a Japanese

7
BRISBANE

Exploring

251


BRISBANE

Exploring Brisbane

garden, African and American plants, wetlands, and a bamboo grove. There are lakes
and trails, usually a horticultural show or arts-and-crafts display in the auditorium
on weekends, and a cafe. Free 1-hour guided tours leave the kiosk at 11am and 1pm
Monday through Saturday (except public holidays). The Sir Thomas Brisbane Planetarium
& Cosmic Skydome (see below) is also in the botanic gardens.

7
Mt. Coot-tha Rd., Toowong (7km/41.3 miles from the city). &07/3403 2535. www.brisbane.qld.gov.au.
Free admission to Botanic Gardens. Sept–Mar daily 8am–5:30pm; Apr–Aug daily 8am–5pm. Free parking.
Bus: 471.

Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary


This is the best place in Australia to cuddle
a koala—and one of the few places where koala cuddling is actually still allowed.
Banned in New South Wales and Victoria, holding a koala is legal in Queensland
under strict conditions that ensure that each animal is handled for less than 30
minutes a day—and gets every third day off! When it opened in 1927, Lone Pine
had only two koalas, Jack and Jill; it is now home to more than 130. You can cuddle
them anytime and have a photo taken holding one for A$16; once you’ve purchased
a photograph, you can have some photos taken using your own camera, too. Lone
Pine isn’t just koalas—you can also hand-feed kangaroos and wallabies and get up
close with emus, snakes, baby crocs, parrots, wombats, Tasmanian devils, skinks,
lace monitors, frogs, bats, turtles, possums, and other native wildlife. There is a currency
exchange, a gift shop, and a restaurant and cafe. You can also take advantage
of the picnic and barbecue facilities.

The nicest way to get to Lone Pine is a cruise down the Brisbane River aboard the
MV Mirimar (& 1300/729 742 in Australia), which leaves the Cultural Centre
at South Bank Parklands at 10am. The 19km (12-mile) trip to Lone Pine takes 90
minutes and includes commentary. You have 2 hours to explore before returning,
arriving in the city at 2:45pm. The round-trip fare is A$55 for adults, A$33 for children
ages 3 to 13, and A$160 for families of five, including entry to Lone Pine.
Cruises run daily except April 25 (Anzac Day) and December 25.

Jesmond Rd., Fig Tree Pocket. &07/3378 1366. Fax 07/3878 1770. www.koala.net. Admission A$28
adults, A$19 children 3–13, A$65 families of 5. Daily 8:30am–5pm; Apr 25 (Anzac Day) 1:30–5pm; Dec 25
8:30am–4:30pm. By car (20 min. from the city center), take Milton Rd. to the roundabout at Toowong
Cemetery, and then Western Fwy. toward Ipswich. Signs point to Fig Tree Pocket and Lone Pine. Ample
free parking. Bus: 430 from the city center hourly 8:45am–3:40pm weekdays, 8:30am–3:30pm Sat–Sun
and public holidays; 445 at 8:45am and 3:45pm, and hourly from 9:10am–2:10pm weekdays, 7:55am–
2:55pm Sat. Bus fare A$3.40 adults, A$1.70 children. Taxi from the city center about A$40.

Museum of Brisbane This smallish museum has been temporarily relocated
while its usual home, the historic City Hall, undergoes a 3-year multimillion-dollar
restoration. Now on the ground floor of a city office building, the museum nevertheless
gives a good insight into the history and essence of Brisbane. Changing exhibitions
relate the stories, events, and ideas that have shaped the city, as well as giving
practical information for visitors. It is a good starting point for your visit.

157 Ann St. &07/3403 8888. www.museumofbrisbane.com.au. Free admission. Daily 10am–5pm. Closed
Jan 1, Good Friday, Dec 25 and 26, and until 1pm Apr 25 (Anzac Day). Train: Roma St. Bus: City Circle.

Newstead House


Brisbane’s oldest surviving home has been restored to its
late Victorian splendor in a peaceful park overlooking the Brisbane River. Wander
the rooms, admire the gracious exterior dating from 1846, and on some Sunday
afternoons enjoy a free band concert. The U.S. Army occupied the house during

Visitors to Brisbane can now purchase a
new “Five in One” discount card to save
more than 30 percent on entry to five of
the city’s top attractions. You can
choose from a list of attractions that
includes Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary, the
Story Bridge Adventure Climb, Kooka-
burra River Queen Cruises, Riverlife
Adventure Centre, Brisbane Ghost Tours,
the XXXX Brewery Tour, walking tours,
wine tasting, and kayaking. The card
costs A$145 for adults and A$109 for
children aged 4 to 15, and can be pur-
chased from the Queen Street Mall Visi-
tor Information Centre, major hotels, or
online at www.brisbanefiveinone.com.
Brisbane on the Cheap Brisbane on the Cheap
World War II, and the first American war memorial built in Australia stands on
Newstead Point.

Newstead Park, Breakfast Creek Rd., Newstead. &1800/061 846 or 07/3216 1846. www.newstead
house.com.au. A$6 adults, A$5 seniors and students, A$4 children 6–16, A$15 families. Mon–Thurs
10am–4pm; Sun 2–5pm. Last admittance 30 min. before closing. Closed Fri, Sat, Anzac Day (Apr 25),
and for 10 days btw. Christmas and New Year’s Day. Limited parking. Bus: 300 or 302.

Queensland Cultural Centre


This modern complex stretching along the
south bank of the Brisbane River houses many of the city’s performing arts venues
as well as the state art galleries, museum, and library. With plenty of open plazas and
fountains, it is a pleasing place to wander or just sit and watch the river and the city
skyline. It’s a 7-minute walk from town.
The Queensland Performing Arts Centre (&07/3840 7444 administration
Mon–Fri 9am–5pm, or 13 62 46 for bookings Mon–Sat 9am–8:30pm; www.qpac.
com.au) houses the 2,000-seat Lyric Theatre for musicals, ballet, and opera; the
1,800-seat Concert Hall for orchestral performances; the 850-seat Playhouse theater
for plays; and the 315-seat Cremorne Theatre for theater-in-the-round, cabaret,
and experimental works. The complex has a restaurant and a cafe.

The Queensland Art Gallery


(&07/3840 7303; www.qag.qld.gov.au) is
one of Australia’s most attractive galleries, with vast light-filled spaces and interesting
water features inside and out. It is a major player in the Australian art world,
attracting blockbuster exhibitions of works by the likes of Renoir, Picasso, and van
Gogh, and showcasing diverse modern Australian painters, sculptors, and other artists.
It also has an impressive collection of Aboriginal art. The adjacent Queensland
Gallery of Modern Art
houses collections of modern and contemporary
Australian, indigenous Australian, Asian, and Pacific art, and also gives a stunning
sense of light and space. The Australian Cinematheque, located at the Gallery of
Modern Art, has two cinemas in which it presents retrospective and thematic film
programs, as well as a gallery dedicated to screen-related exhibitions. Admission is
free to both galleries. They are open Monday through Friday 10am to 5pm and
weekends 9am to 5pm; closed Good Friday, December 25, and until noon on April
25 (Anzac Day).
The Queensland Museum (& 07/3840 7555; www.qm.qld.gov.au), on the
corner of Grey and Melbourne streets, houses an eclectic collection ranging from
natural history specimens and fossils to a World War I German tank. Children
will like the blue whale model; the dinosaurs, which include Queensland’s own

7
BRISBANE

Exploring

253


BRISBANE

Exploring Brisbane

Muttaburrasaurus; and the interactive Sciencentre on Level 1. The museum has
a cafe and gift shop. Admission is free, except to the Sciencentre and traveling
exhibitions. It’s open daily 9:30am to 5pm; closed Good Friday, December 25,
and until 1:30pm on April 25 (Anzac Day).

Adjacent to South Bank Parklands, across Victoria Bridge at western end of Queen St. &07/3840

7
7100. Admission to Sciencentre A$12 adults, A$9 children 3–15, A$40 family of 6. Plentiful underground
parking. Ferry: South Bank (CityCat) or Old South Bank (Inner City Ferry). Bus: Numerous routes from
Adelaide St. (near Albert St.), including 100, 111, 115, and 120, stop outside. Train: South Brisbane.

Roma Street Parkland Thousands of plants, including natives and some of the
world’s most endangered, have been used to create lush subtropical gardens in an
unused railway yard. The effect is stunning. Free 1-hour guided walks leave from the
Hub, near the Spectacle Garden entrance at 10am and 2pm daily (excluding Good
Friday and Christmas Day), and there are also self-guided walks for each themed
area of the gardens. The “art walk” helps visitors discover the interesting public art
on display. The park also has barbecues, picnic areas, a playground, and cafe. From
King George Square, it is about a 500m (1,640-ft.) walk along Albert Street.

Roma St.; information booths at Spectacle Garden and Activity Centre. & 07/3006 4545. www.
romastreetparkland.com. Free admission. Daily 24 hr.; Spectacle Garden daily dawn–dusk. Train: Roma
St. By car, enter from Roma St. or the Wickham Terrace/College Rd./Gregory Terrace intersection.

St. John’s Anglican Cathedral


Brisbane’s stunning neo-Gothic Anglican
cathedral took more than a century to complete, but the result has been worth the
wait. Plagued by lack of funding throughout its history, the final scaffolding was
removed from the building in 2009. As the last Gothic-style cathedral to be completed
anywhere in the world, the cathedral has seen stonemasons toiling for years
using traditional medieval building techniques to complete this wonderful building.
It is well worth a visit. Friendly, knowledgeable volunteer guides run tours and will
point out some of the details that make this cathedral uniquely Queensland—such
as the carved possums on the organ screen and the hand-stitched cushions.
373 Ann St. (btw. Wharf and Queen sts.). & 07/3835 2231. www.stjohnscathedral.com.au. Daily
9:30am–4:30pm; free tours Mon–Sat 10am and 2pm and most Sun at 2pm. Closed to visitors, except
for services, Apr 25 (Anzac Day), Dec 25, and some other public holidays. Train: Central Station.

Sir Thomas Brisbane Planetarium & Cosmic Skydome


Digital multimedia
systems that present real-time digital star shows and computer-generated images
in the Cosmic Skydome theater are a popular feature of a visit here for all ages. The
fascinating 40-minute astronomical show includes a re-creation of the Brisbane
night sky using a Ziess star projector. There are special shows designed for kids
between 5 and 8 at 11:30am and 12:30pm on weekends; the planetarium is not
recommended for younger children. Kids shows cost A$6.70 adults and children.
Brisbane Botanic Gardens, Mt. Coot-tha Rd., Toowong. &07/3403 2578. www.brisbane.qld.gov.au/
planetarium. A$13 adults, A$11 seniors and students, A$7.80 children 14 and under, A$34 families of 4.
Tues–Fri 10am–4pm; Sat 11am–8:15pm (last entry at 7:30pm); Sun 11am–4pm. Shows Tues–Fri 3pm; Sat
11:30am, 12:30, 2, 3, 6, and 7:30pm; Sun 11:30am, 12:30, 2, and 3pm. Extended hours during school holidays.
Closed public holidays. Reservations recommended. Bus: 471, 598, or 599.

South Bank Parklands


Follow the locals’ lead and spend some time at this
delightful 16-hectare (40-acre) complex of parks, restaurants, cafes, shops, playgrounds,
street theater, and weekend markets. There’s a man-made beach lined
with palm trees, with waves and sand, where you can swim, stroll, and cycle the

meandering pathways. From the parklands it’s an easy stroll to the museum, art gallery,
and other parts of the adjacent Queensland Cultural Centre (see above).
The South Bank Parklands are a 7-minute walk from town.

South Bank. &07/3867 2051 for Visitor Information Centre. www.visitsouthbank.com. Free admission.
Park daily 24 hr.; Visitor Information Centre daily 9am–5pm. From the Queen St. Mall, cross the Victoria
Bridge to South Bank or walk across Goodwill Bridge from Gardens Point Rd. entrance to Brisbane City
Gardens. Plentiful underground parking in Queensland Cultural Centre. Train: South Brisbane. Ferry:
South Bank (CityCat or Cross River Ferry). Bus: Numerous routes from Adelaide St. (near Albert St.),
including 100, 111, 115, and 120, stop at the Queensland Cultural Centre; walk through the Centre to South
Bank Parklands.

Wheel of Brisbane


Take a 13-minute ride in an enclosed gondola on this
giant observation wheel for a 360-degree bird’s-eye view of Brisbane from 60m (197
ft.) up. The city’s newest attraction, at South Bank Parklands, lets you see the surrounds
from a comfortable air-conditioned bubble.
Russell St., South Bank. &07/3844 3464. www.worldtouristattractions.co.uk. Mon–Thurs 10am–10pm;
Fri–Sat 9am–midnight; Sun 9am–10pm. A$15 adults, A$10 children 4–12, A$2 children 1–3, A$42 family
of 4, A$95 private gondola.

Taking a City Stroll

Because Brisbane is leafy, warm, and full of colonial-era Queenslander architecture,
it is a great city for strolling. A self-guided walking tour, the Brisbane City Walk,
takes you to 30 attractions, from shopping precincts to historic buildings, and links
through three inner-city parks—Southbank Parklands, Roma Street Parkland, and
the City Botanic Gardens. The route is marked on a map distributed by the Brisbane
Visitor Information Centre in the Queen Street Mall Information Centre, or you can
download it at www.ourbrisbane.com/see-and-do/brisbanecitywalk.

A “floating” River Walk connects more than 20km (13 miles) of pathways, roads,
bridges, and parks along the Brisbane River. You can stroll along River Walk on the
north bank of the river between the University of Queensland at St. Lucia and
Teneriffe, and on the south bank from the West End ferry terminal at Orleigh Park
to Dockside at Kangaroo Point.

For information on organized walking tours, see below.

RIVER CRUISES &
ORGANIZED TOURS

RIVER CRUISES The best way to cruise the river, in my view, is aboard the fast
CityCat ferries . Board at Riverside and head downstream under the Story
Bridge to New Farm Park, past Newstead House to the restaurant row at Brett’s
Wharf; or cruise upriver past the city and South Bank to the University of
Queensland’s lovely campus. (Take a look at its impressive Great Court while you’re
there.) This trip in either direction will set you back a whopping A$3.40. Or you can
stay on for the full trip, which takes about 2 hours. For more information, see “Getting
Around,” earlier in this chapter.

For those who’d like a meal as they cruise, the Kookaburra River Queen paddle-
wheelers (& 07/3221 1300; www.kookaburrariverqueens.com) are a good
option. Dinner cruises, offering both a seafood and roast carvery buffet, run daily
except Monday and Wednesday and cost A$75 or A$85 on Friday and Saturday

7
BRISBANE

River Cruises Tours

255


BRISBANE

Enjoying the Great Outdoors

nights. The boat departs from the Eagle Street Pier (parking is available under the
City Rowers tavern on Eagle St.) at 7:30pm. On the first Sunday of each month, a
cruise with live jazz runs from 12:15 to 2pm. It costs A$20.

BUS TOURS For a good introduction to Brisbane, look no farther than a City
Sights bus tour run by the Brisbane City Council (& 07/3403 8888; www.city
sights.com.au). City Sights buses stop at 19 points of interest in a continuous loop
around the city center, Spring Hill, Milton, South Bank, and Fortitude Valley, including
Chinatown. They take in various historic buildings and places of interest. The
driver of the blue-and-yellow bus narrates, and you can hop on and off at any stop
you like. The tour is a good value—your ticket also gives unlimited access to CityCat
ferries for the day. The bus departs every 45 minutes from 9am to 3:45pm daily
except Good Friday, April 25 (Anzac Day), and December 25. The entire trip, without
stopping, takes about 80 minutes. Tickets cost A$35 for adults, A$20 for children
5 to 14 or A$80 for a family of 5. Buy your ticket on board. You can join
anywhere along the route, but the most central stop is City Hall, stop 2, on Adelaide
Street at Albert Street.

WALKING TOURS The Brisbane City Council has a wonderful program called
Gonewalking (&07/3403 8888). About 80 free guided walks are run each week
from somewhere in the city or suburbs, exploring all kinds of territory, from bushland
to heritage buildings to riverscapes to cemeteries. The walks are aimed at locals, not
tourists, so you get to explore Brisbane side by side with the townsfolk. Every walk
has a flexible distance option and usually lasts about an hour. Most are easy, but
some are more demanding. Most start and finish near public transport and end near
a food outlet.

Free guided walks of the City Botanic Gardens at Alice Street leave from the

rotunda at the Albert Street entrance Monday through Saturday at 11am and 1pm

(except public holidays). They take about 1 hour. Bookings are not necessary.

Prepare for shivers up your spine if you take one of Jack Sim’s Ghost Tours


(& 07/3344 7265; www.ghost-tours.com.au), which relive Brisbane’s gruesome

past. You can take a 90-minute walking tour of the city leaving from the Queen

Street Mall at 7:30pm Sunday through Friday, for A$25 per person. Choose between

the Bloody Brisbane crime and murder tour or Haunted Brisbane. On Saturday

nights, you can take a tour of the historic and haunted Toowong cemetery for A$35

per person. Reservations are essential; not suitable for children under 12.

ENJOYING THE GREAT
OUTDOORS


ABSEILING The Kangaroo Point cliffs just south of the Story Bridge are a breeze
for first-time abseilers (rappellers)—or so they say. The Riverlife Adventure Centre
(& 07/3891 5766; www.riverlife.com.au), in the old naval stores building at
the base of the cliffs, runs daily abseiling and rock-climbing classes. Abseiling costs
A$39 per person and a 2-hour rock-climbing lesson is A$45 per person.

BIKING Bike tracks, often shared with pedestrians and in-line skaters, stretch for
400km (248 miles) around Brisbane. One great scenic route, about 9km (51.2 miles)
long, starts just west of the Story Bridge, sweeps through the Brisbane City Gardens,


BRISBANE
Enjoying the Outdoors
Brisbane seems to have a fascination
with building bridges across its wide
river. There are 14 (at last count), but
the most interesting is the Story
Bridge, built in 1940. If you are over 12
years old and at least 130 centimeters
(just over 4 ft., 3 in.) tall, you can
“climb” this overgrown Meccano set.
The Story Bridge Adventure Climb
(&1300/254 627 in Australia, or
07/3514 6900; www.storybridge
adventureclimb.com.au) peaks at a
viewing platform on top of the bridge,
44m (143 ft.) above the roadway and
80m (262 ft.) above the Brisbane River.
This is only the third “bridge climb” in
the world (after Sydney’s and Auck-
land’s), so make the most of the
chance. You’ll be rewarded with mag-
nificent 360-degree views of the city,
river, and Moreton Bay and its islands.
Climbs operate daily and start from the
base headquarters at 170 Main St. (at
Wharf St.), Kangaroo Point. Day climbs
cost A$89 adults and A$76 children
ages 10 to 16. Twilight climbs on Mon-
day through Thursday cost A$99 adults
and A$84 children, and A$130 adults or
A$111 children Friday to Sunday. Night
climbs are A$89 adults and A$76 chil-
dren weekdays and A$99 or A$84 on
weekends. Dawn climbs, only on Satur-
day and Sunday, cost A$99 adults and
A$84 children. Children must be
accompanied by an adult.
Brisbane’s Bridge Climb Brisbane’s Bridge Climb
7
and follows the river all the way to the University of Queensland campus at St.
Lucia. Gardens Cycle Hire (&0408/003 198 mobile; www.gardens-cycle-hire.
com) operates from the bicycle station in the City Botanic Gardens, near the Alice
Street gate, from 9:30am until dark. The cost is A$18 for 1 hour or A$42 for a day.
Kids’ bikes and tandems are also available. You can also have your bike “valet” delivered
to all city area accommodations at extra cost. All rentals include helmets, which
are compulsory in Australia. The Brisbane City Council at City Hall (& 07/3403
8888) and Brisbane Visitor Information Centre (see “Visitor Information,” earlier in
this chapter) also give out bike maps.

BUSHWALKING D’Aguilar National Park


(formerly known as Brisbane
Forest Park), a 28,500-hectare (70,395-acre) expanse of bushland, waterfalls, and
rainforest a 20-minute drive north of the city, has hiking trails ranging from just a
few hundred meters up to 8km (5 miles). Some tracks have themes—one highlights
the native mammals that live in the park, for example, and another, the 1.8km (just
over 1-mile) Mount Coot-tha Aboriginal Art Trail, showcases Aboriginal art,
with tree carvings, rock paintings, etchings, and a dance pit. Because the park is so
big, most walks depart from one of the seven regional centers, which are up to a
20-minute drive from headquarters. (You will need a car.) Make a day of it and pack
a picnic. At Walkabout Creek Visitor Centre, 60 Mount Nebo Rd., The Gap
(& 1300/723 684; www.derm.qld.gov.au/parks/daguilar), you will also find the
South East Queensland Wildlife Centre, a showcase of the region’s wildlife that
is home to a platypus, lungfish, nocturnal wildlife (in a night-house), birds in a walkthrough
aviary, wallabies, reptiles, and frogs. It is open daily 9am to 4:30pm. Admission
is A$5.85 adults, A$2.85 school children, or A$15 for a family of 4. There’s a
cafe on-site.
257


BRISBANE

The Shopping Scene

IN-LINE SKATING In-line skaters can use the network of bike and pedestrian
paths. See “Biking,” above, for locations that distribute maps, or head down to the
Brisbane City Gardens at Alice Street and find your way along the river. SkateBiz,
101 Albert St. (& 07/3220 0157), rents blades for A$13 for 2 hours, or A$25 for
up to 24 hours. Protective gear is included. Take a photo ID. The store is open from

7
9am to 5:30pm Monday through Thursday, 9am to 9pm Friday, 9am to 4pm Saturday,
and 10am to 4pm Sunday. They also run social skating sessions around Brisbane.

KAYAKING To get out on the Brisbane River, you can rent a kayak from Riverlife
Adventure Centre (&07/3891 5766; www.riverlife.com.au), at the base of
the Kangaroo Point cliffs, for A$25 per person for 90 minutes. Classes, in which you
will learn how to launch the kayak, paddle, turn, stay out of the path of the CityCats,
and much more, are run daily and cost A$35 per person. Night kayaking lessons are
also run after 6pm and cost A$55 per person. The center is open 9am to 6pm daily.

THE SHOPPING SCENE

Brisbane’s inner-city shopping centers on Queen Street Mall (www.queenstreet
mall.com.au), which has around 500 stores. Fronting the mall at 171–209 Queen
St., under the Hilton, is the three-level Wintergarden shopping complex
(& 07/3229 9755; www.wgarden.com.au), housing upscale jewelers and Aussie
fashion designers. Farther up the mall at 91 Queen St. (at Albert St.) is the Myer
Centre (& 07/3223 6900; www.myercentreshopping.com.au), which has Brisbane’s
biggest department store and five levels of moderately priced stores, mostly
fashion. The Brisbane Arcade, 160 Queen St. Mall (& 07/3831 2711; www.
brisbanearcade.com.au), abounds with the boutiques of local Queensland designers.
Just down the mall from it is the Broadway on the Mall arcade (& 07/3229
5233; www.broadwayonthemall.com.au), which stocks affordable fashion, gifts, and
accessories on two levels. Across from the Edward Street end of the mall is a smart
fashion and lifestyle shopping precinct, MacArthur Central (&07/3007 2300;
www.macarthurcentral.com), right next door to the GPO on the block between
Queen and Elizabeth streets. This is where you’ll find top-name designer labels,
Swiss watches, galleries, and accessory shops.

In Fortitude Valley, on the city center fringe, you’ll find the Emporium precinct
(www.emporium.com.au) at the bottom of Ann St., the place for designer labels
(including shoes), gourmet food and wine, a couple of good bookshops, and other


Fireworks for Your Wall
If the Aboriginal art you see in the
usual tourist outlets doesn’t do it for
you, what you’ll see at Brisbane’s Fire-
Works Gallery, 52a Doggett St., Newstead
(&07/3216 1250; www.
fireworksgallery.com.au), might. This
renowned gallery shows art by established
and emerging artists from all
over Australia. You may pale at some of
the prices, but the range is wide and
you may find something you can’t live
without—it’s that kind of place. The
staff will get your new acquisition
shipped home for you. Open Tuesday
to Friday 10am to 6pm, Saturday 10am
to 4pm, or by appointment.


luxuries. James Street is home to some of the top Australian designers, including
Scanlan & Theodore and Sass & Bide.

The trendy suburb of Paddington, just a couple of miles from the city by cab (or
take the no. 144 bus to Bardon), is the place for antiques, books, art, crafts, one-ofa-
kind clothing designs, and unusual gifts. The shops—housed in colorfully painted
Queenslander cottages—line the main street, Given Terrace, which becomes
Latrobe Terrace. Don’t miss the second wave of shops around the bend.

SHOPPING HOURS Brisbane shops are open Monday through Thursday from
9am to 6pm, Friday 9am to 9pm, Saturday 9am to 5:30pm, and Sunday 10am to
6pm. On Friday evening in the city, the Queen Street Mall is abuzz with cinemagoers
and revelers; the late (until 9pm) shopping night in Paddington is Thursday.

MARKETS Authentic retro ’50s and ’60s fashion, offbeat stuff such as old LPs,
secondhand crafts, fashion by up-and-coming young designers, and all kinds of junk
and treasure, are for sale at Brisbane’s only alternative market, Valley Markets, Brunswick
Street and Chinatown malls, Fortitude Valley. Hang around in one of the many
coffee shops and listen to live music. It’s open Saturday and Sunday from 9am to 4pm.

The buzzing outdoor South Bank Lifestyle Market, Stanley Street Plaza,
South Bank Parklands, is illuminated by fairy lights at night. The market is open
Friday from 5 to 10pm, Saturday 10am to 5pm, and Sunday 9am to 5pm. On the
first Sunday of the month, you’ll find the Young Designers section of the market,
showcasing Brisbane’s next hot young things.

Brisbane folk like trawling the Riverside Markets


at the Riverside Centre,
123 Eagle St., and the adjacent Eagle Street Pier Art & Craft Markets for
housewares, hand-crafted furniture, glassware, leather work, jewelry, fashion, alternative
therapies, stained glass, food, art, handmade toys, sculpture, and more. They
are both open on Sunday from around 7am to 4pm.
For an authentic taste of Queensland’s best produce, the Powerhouse Farmers
Markets


(www.janpowersfarmersmarkets.com.au) operate on the second and
fourth Saturday of each month, from 6am to noon, in the grounds of the Brisbane
Powerhouse, Lamington Street, New Farm. Here you’ll find much to tempt your
palate in about 100 stalls, selling everything from fresh fruit and vegetables to homemade
chutneys, quail, fresh seafood, free-range eggs, and pates. There are even
cooking classes. Foodies will be in heaven.
BRISBANE AFTER DARK

You can find out about festivals, concerts, and events, and book tickets through
Ticketek (& 13 28 49 in Queensland; www.ticketek.com.au). You can also book
in person at Ticketek agencies, the most convenient of which are on Elizabeth
Street, outside the Myer Centre, and in the Visitor Information Centre at South
Bank Parklands. Or try Ticketmaster (&13 61 00; www.ticketmaster.com.au).

QTIX (& 13 62 46 in Australia; www.qtix.com.au) is a booking agent for the
performing arts and classical music, including all events at the Queensland Performing
Arts Complex (QPAC). There is a A$3 booking fee per ticket. You can also book
in person at the box office at QPAC between 8:30am and 9pm Monday to Saturday,
and at the South Bank Parklands Visitor Information Centre.

7
BRISBANE

Brisbane Dark

259


BRISBANE

Brisbane After Dark

The free weekly magazine Brisbane News lists performing arts, jazz, and classical
music performances, art exhibitions, rock concerts, and public events. The free
weekly TimeOff, published on Wednesday and available in bars and cafes, is a good
guide to live music, as is Thursday’s Courier-Mail newspaper.

7 The Performing Arts

Many of Brisbane’s performing arts events are at the Queensland Performing Arts
Centre (QPAC) in the Queensland Cultural Centre (see “Exploring Brisbane,”
earlier in this chapter). The city also has a lively independent theater scene, with
smaller companies making an increasing impact. To find out what’s playing and to
book tickets, contact QTIX (see above).

Queensland Theatre Company (& 07/3010 7600 for information; www.
qldtheatreco.com.au), the state theater company, offers eight or nine productions a
year, from the classics to new Australian works. It attracts some of the country’s best
actors and directors. The company performs at three venues: the Playhouse and
Cremorne Theatre at the Queensland Performing Arts Centre (QPAC), South Bank;
and its home venue, the new 228-seat Bille Brown Studio, 78 Montague Rd., South
Brisbane. Tickets cost from A$30, if you are under 30, to between A$36 and A$63.

La Boite Theatre


(& 07/3007 8600 administration; www.laboite.com.au)
is a well-established innovative company that performs contemporary Australian
plays in the round. La Boite performs in the 400-seat Roundhouse Theater, 6 Musk
Ave., Kelvin Grove. Take bus no. 390 from the city to Kelvin Grove Road, and get
off at stop 7. Tickets cost A$46 to A$63 (opening nights); previews are A$25. If you
are 30 or under, tickets cost A$26.
Brisbane Powerhouse Arts, 119 Lamington St., New Farm (& 07/3358
8600; www.brisbanepowerhouse.org), is a venue for innovative (some might say
fringe) contemporary works. A former electricity powerhouse, the massive brick factory
is now a dynamic art space for exhibitions, contemporary performance, and live
art. The building retains its character, an industrial mix of metal, glass, and stark
surfaces etched with 20 years of graffiti. It’s a short walk from the New Farm ferry
terminal along the riverfront through New Farm Park.

The state opera company, Opera Queensland (& 07/3735 3030 administration;
www.operaqueensland.com.au), performs a lively repertoire of traditional as
well as modern works, musicals, and choral concerts. Free talks on the opera you are
about to see start 45 minutes before every performance. Book tickets through QTIX
(&13 62 46; www.qtix.com.au). Most performances take place at the Queensland
Performing Arts Centre (QPAC). Tickets range from A$40 to A$150 or A$45 to
A$55 at some performances if you’re age 30 or younger.

The Queensland Symphony Orchestra (& 07/3833 5000 for administration;
www.thequeenslandorchestra.com.au) provides classical music lovers with a
diverse mix of orchestral and chamber music, with the odd foray into fun material,
such as movie themes, pop, and gospel music. It schedules about 30 concerts a year.
Free talks in the foyer begin 1 hour before major performances. The orchestra plays
at the Concert Hall in the Queensland Performing Arts Centre (QPAC) and occasional
other venues; more intimate works sometimes play at the Conservatorium
Theatre, South Bank. Tickets for the Maestro concert series cost A$45 to A$75.


BRISBANE’S HISTORIC pubs


7
BRISBANE

Brisbane Dark

Brisbane’s attractive historic pubs, many with students, probably because of its
of them recently revitalized, have wide, proximity to the University of
shady verandas and beer gardens just Queensland. It has a great garden bar at
perfect for whiling away a sunny after-the back.
noon or catching a quick meal at night. The Story Bridge Hotel, 200 Main St.,

The best known is the Breakfast Kangaroo Point (&07/3391 2266;
Creek Hotel, 2 Kingsford Smith Dr., www.storybridgehotel.com.au), is well
Breakfast Creek (&07/3262 5988; see known as the venue for some of Bris“
Where to Dine,” earlier in this chapter). bane’s most unusual events, such as the
Built in 1889, the hotel is a Brisbane annual Australia Day (Jan 26) cockroach
institution. For many people, a visit to races. Built in 1886, the pub is also a
the city isn’t complete without a steak great place to find live music, and has a
and beer “off the wood” at the Brekky wonderful beer garden under the
Creek. bridge.

Another landmark is the Regatta In Red Hill, on the city fringe, is the
Hotel, 543 Coronation Dr., Toowong Normanby Hotel, 1 Musgrave Rd.
(&07/3871 9595; www.regattahotel. (&07/3831 3353; www.thenormanby.
com.au). This heritage hotel with three com.au), built in 1872 and recently stylstories
of iron-lace balconies is the per-ishly revamped. Features are the giant
fect spot for a cool drink overlooking Moreton Bay fig tree in the beer garden
the Brisbane River and usually bursts at and the biggest outdoor TV screen in
the seams on weekends. Its Boatshed town.
restaurant (&07/3871 9533) is popular Another of the city’s oldest pubs is
but not inexpensive—tables around the the Plough Inn (&07/3844 7777;
hotel verandas are a better choice. www.ploughinn.com.au), at South Bank

Not far from the Regatta is the Royal Parklands, which has stood its ground
Exchange Hotel, 10 High St., Toowong through major changes in the neighbor(&
07/3371 2555; www.rehotel.com.au). hood since 1885. There’s even a ghost,
Known simply as “the RE,” it’s popular they say . . .

Nightclubs & Bars

Friday’s This indoor/outdoor bar, restaurant, and nightclub complex overlooking
the Brisbane River is a haunt for 18- to 40-year-olds. Gather on the large outdoor
terrace with its huge island bar, or head for the restaurant, supper club, or dance
floor. Music spans acid jazz, urban groove, and dance anthems from resident DJs,
with the latest R&B, soul, and funk by live bands. Wednesday through Saturday
nights see some kind of happy-hour deal, cocktail club, or drinks special; the dance
action starts pumping around 9pm on Friday and Saturday. Upstairs in Riverside Centre,
123 Eagle St. & 07/3832 2122. www.fridays.com.au. Cover varies. Ferry: CityCat to
Riverside.

Treasury Casino This lovely heritage building—built in 1886 as, ironically
enough, the state’s Treasury offices—houses a modern casino. Three levels of 100
gaming tables offer roulette, blackjack, baccarat, craps, sic-bo, and traditional Aussie
two-up. There are more than 1,300 gaming machines, six restaurants, and five bars.

261


BRISBANE

Brisbane’s Moreton Bay & Islands

It’s open 24 hours. Live bands appear nightly in the Livewire Bar and on Thursday
nights you can hear Brisbane’s up-and-coming singer-songwriters in the Premier’s
Bar. Queen St. btw. George and William sts. &07/3306 8888. www.conradtreasury.com.
au. Must be 18 years old to enter; neat casual attire required (no beachwear or thongs).
Closed Good Friday, Dec 25, and until 1pm Apr 25 (Anzac Day). Train: Central or South

7 Brisbane, and then walk across the Victoria Bridge.

Zenbar Minimalist Manhattan-style interiors with an 8m-high (26-ft.) glass wall
overlooking a bamboo garden make this one of the hippest joints in town. It’s a
restaurant as well, but the bar is packed on Friday and Saturday night with office
workers and beautiful people. There are about 40 wines by the glass, but in this kind
of place you should be drinking a mojito or martini. Park level, Post Office Sq., 215
Adelaide St. &07/3211 2333. www.zenbar.com.au. Train: Central.

Cool Spots for Jazz & Blues

The Bowery


Exposed brick walls, wooden booths, and a comfortable courtyard
set the scene for one of Brisbane’s (indeed, Australia’s) most intimate and
sophisticated jazz venues. This atmospheric cocktail bar, modeled on Prohibition-era
speakeasies, has live jazz during the week and on Sundays—usually from around 8
or 8:30pm—and DJs on Friday and Saturday from 9pm. Open Tuesday to Sunday
5pm to 3am. 676 Ann St., Fortitude Valley. & 07/3252 0202. www.thebowery.com.au.
Train: Brunswick St.
Brisbane Jazz Club


On the riverfront, under the Story Bridge, this is the
only Australian jazz club still featuring big band dance music (every Sun night).
Watch out for the slightly sloping dance floor—it was once a boat ramp! Traditional
and mainstream jazz is featured on Saturday nights. It’s open Fridays and Saturdays

6:30 to 11:30pm and Sundays 5:30 to 10pm. On the first and third Tuesday of the
month from 7 to 10pm there’s a jazz singers’ jam session (A$10), and on the last
Sunday of the month a breakfast session from 8:15am to noon. Phone and check
what’s on before heading over; bookings are necessary for some events. 1 Annie St.,
Kangaroo Point. & 07/3391 2006. www.brisbanejazzclub.com.au. Cover usually A$20,
higher for some guest acts. Free parking lot. Ferry: CityCat to Holman St.
BRISBANE’S MORETON BAY &
ISLANDS

The Brisbane River runs into Moreton Bay, which is studded with hundreds of small
islands—and a few large ones. Some of them can be reached only by private vessel.
Others are national parks and are accessible by tour boat or public ferry.

North Stradbroke Island


Affectionately called “Straddie” by the locals, the island was once home to a large
Aboriginal population and still retains much of their history. The town of Dunwich
was used as a convict outstation, Catholic mission, quarantine station, and benevolent
institution. The North Stradbroke Island Historical Museum, 15-17
Welsby St., Dunwich (& 07/3409 9699), has a display of historical photographs,
items salvaged from shipwrecks, and information about the Aboriginal history and


Moreton Bay & Islands


BRISBANE
Brisbane’s Moreton Bay & Islands
MORETONMORETON
ISLANDISLAND
NAT'L PARKNAT L PARK
ST. HELENAST. HELENANAT'L PARKNAT'L PARKBLUE LAKEBLUE LAKENAT'L PARKNAT'L PARKBRIBIE ISLANDBRIBIE ISLAND
NAT'L PARKNAT L PARK
SandgateSandgateManlyManlyClevelandClevelandRedland BayRedland BayBeenleighBeenleighCabooltureCabooltureBRISBANEBRISBANEBulwerBulwerAmityAmityDunwichDunwichDeception BayDeception BayScarboroughScarboroughPetriePetrieTangaloomaTangaloomaBongareeBongareeRedcliffeRedcliffeOrmeauOrmeauJacob's WellJacob's WellVictoria PointVictoria PointWynnumWynnumWoorimWoorimBellaraBellaraBeachmereBeachmereToorbulToorbulBrightonBrightonKooringalKooringalPointPointLookoutLokoutCowan CowanCowan CowanBrisbaneBrisbaneAirportAirportMt. TempestMt. Tempest
Smith Pk.Smith Pk.
Mt. HardgraveMt. Hardgrave
Forgotten HillForgotten Hill
Mt. GravattMt. Gravatt
To Rockhampton, CairnsTo Rockhampton, Cairns& the Sunshine Coast& the Sunshine CoastTo Gold Coast,To Gold Coast,
SydneySydneyMoretonMoretonIslandIslandC. MoretonC. MoretonBald Pt.Bald Pt.
Woody Pt.Woody Pt.
Wellington Pt.Wellington Pt.
Pt.Pt.
LookoutLookoutCampbell Pt.Campbell Pt.
BribieBribieIslandIslandNorthNorthStradbrokeStradbrokeIslandIslandSouthSouthStradbrokeStradbrokeIslandIslandRussellRussellIslanIslandPeelPeelIslandIslandMud IslandMud IslandSt. Helena IslandSt. Helena IslandFishermanFishermanIs.Is.
Green I.Green I.
MacleayMacleayIslandIslandKangaroo I.Kangaroo I.
Eden I.Eden I.
Cloherty'sCloherty'sPeninsulaPeninsulaReeders Pt.Reeders Pt.
MoretonMoreton
BayBay
BrisbaneDeceptionDeception
BayBay
BrambleBramble
BayBay
PACIFICPACIFIC
OCEANOCEAN
LoganMORETON
ISLAND
NAT'L PARK
ST. HELENA
NAT'L PARK
BLUE LAKE
NAT'L PARK
BRIBIE ISLAND
NAT'L PARK
Sandgate
Manly
Cleveland
Redland Bay
Beenleigh
Caboolture
BRISBANE
Bulwer
Amity
Dunwich
Deception Bay
Scarborough
Petrie
Tangalooma
Bongaree
Redcliffe
Ormeau
Jacob's Well
Victoria Point
Wynnum
WoorimBellara
Beachmere
Toorbul
Brighton
Kooringal
Point
Lookout
Cowan Cowan
Brisbane
Airport
Mt. Tempest
Smith Pk.
Mt. Hardgrave
Forgotten Hill
Mt. Gravatt
To Rockhampton, Cairns
& the Sunshine Coast
To Gold Coast,
Sydney
Moreton
Island
C. Moreton
Bald Pt.
Woody Pt.
Wellington Pt.
Pt.
Lookout
Campbell Pt.
Bribie
Island
North
Stradbroke
Island
South
Stradbroke
Island
Russell
Island
Peel
Island
Mud Island
St. Helena IslandFisherman
Is.
Green I.
Macleay
Island
Kangaroo I.
Eden I.
Cloherty's
Peninsula
Reeders Pt.
Moreton
Bay
Brisbane
Deception
Bay
Bramble
Bay
PACIFIC
OCEAN
Logan
1
5
2
6
4
1
1
Ferries
N
10 mi0
0 10 km
AUSTRALIAA U S T R AL I AAUSTRALIA
CanberraCanberraMelbourneMelbournePerthPerthBrisbaneBrisbaneDarwinDarwinSydneySydneyCanberra
Melbourne
Perth
Brisbane
Darwin
Sydney
Area ofArea ofDetailDetailArea of
Detail
7
263


BRISBANE

Brisbane’s Moreton Bay & Islands

early settlement of the island; it’s open from 10am to 2pm Tuesday to Saturday.
Entry costs A$3.30 adults and A$1.10 children. Pick up a guide to the heritage trail
that features 30 points of interest at Dunwich, Amity, and Lookout Point, with
details the history of the Dunwich Cemetery. The booklet is available at visitor centers
on the mainland and at Dunwich, at the museum, and at tourist attractions on

7
the island. Another “must” for visitors is the North Gorge Headlands Walk, for
breathtaking views and for spotting turtles, dolphins, and whales.

GETTING THERE & GETTING AROUND Stradbroke Ferries (&07/3488
5300; www.stradbrokeferries.com.au) operates water-taxi service from Toondah
Harbour, Middle Street, Cleveland, to Dunwich (about 30 min.); the round-trip
adult fare is A$17, A$10 for children 5 to 14. The vehicle barge takes walk-on passengers
for A$11 adults and A$5.50 children round-trip; the trip takes about 45
minutes. A bus meets almost every water taxi or ferry at Dunwich and connects it
with the other two main settlements, Amity and Point Lookout. The trip to either
place takes about 30 minutes and costs A$4.10 adults, A$2.10 for children 5 to 14.

To get to Cleveland by public transport from Brisbane, take the train from Central
Station to Cleveland Station (A$6.70), and then walk about 300m (a quarter mile)
to Middle Street.

VISITOR INFORMATION The Stradbroke Island Tourism information center
(& 07/3415 3044; www.stradbroketourism.com) is at 21 Cumming Parade,
Point Lookout. It is open weekdays from 8:30am to 5pm and weekends 9am to 4pm.
Another good source is the Redlands on Moreton Bay Visitor Centre, 152
Shore St., Cleveland (&1300/667 386 in Australia; www.more2redlands.com.au).
It’s open 9am to 5pm weekdays and 9am to 3pm weekends.

South Stradbroke Island


A turn-of-the-20th-century shipwreck (with a cargo of whiskey and explosives)
weakened the link between this lovely island and North Stradbroke, and nature did
the rest. South Stradbroke is less well known than its sister island, but that’s changing.
The island has four campgrounds and three resorts. South Stradbroke Island is
accessible from Hope Harbour, about a 45-minute drive south of Brisbane.

GETTING THERE & GETTING AROUND From Brisbane, take the Pacific
Highway exit after Dreamworld (exit 57), and follow signs to Hope Harbour and to
the departure terminal for the island. The resorts run boats for guests only; the only
other way to get there is by water taxi. Gold Coast Water Taxi (& 0418 759
789) takes groups to the island for A$150 per transfer (10 people with no luggage,
or six people plus camping gear).

Moreton Island


At more than 200 sq. km (78 sq. miles), Moreton is the second-largest sand mass in
the world (after Queensland’s Fraser Island) and has the world’s largest sand hill,
Mount Tempest. It’s home to three settlements and the Tangalooma Wild Dolphin
Resort, where you can take part in hand-feeding a pod of wild dolphins. Moreton
has other attractions: You can visit the 42-hectare (104-acre) “desert” and toboggan
down the sand dunes, snorkel around the 12 wrecks just north of the resort, and visit
historical points of interest, including the sandstone lighthouse at Cape Moreton,
built in 1857. A four-wheel-drive vehicle is essential for getting around, but the


Whale-Watching in Moreton Bay
Gasps of delight and wonder are the
norm aboard Captain Kerry Lopez’s
whale-watching boat, and Australia’s
only female whale-watching captain
never tires of them. Lopez’s purposebuilt
vessel, the MV Eye-Spy, was
launched in 2002, and it now carries
320 passengers out into Moreton Bay
between June and November for one of
the most awesome sights you may ever
see. When I traveled with them, we witnessed
the antics of 17 humpback
whales as they breached and displayed
in the waters around the boat. It was an
amazing, unforgettable experience.
Brisbane Whale Watching
(&07/3880 0477; www.brisbane
whalewatching.com.au) will organize
your 30-minute transfers from city
hotels to the departure point in the
northern suburb of Redcliffe. If you
choose to drive yourself, there’s free
all-day parking near the jetty. Tours
depart daily at 10am, returning at
around 2:30 to 3pm. The trip onto the
bay features excellent educational commentary
about the whales while Kerry
and her crew keep a lookout for these
gentle giants of the deep. Prices are
A$135 adults, A$125 seniors and students,
A$95 children 4 to 14, or A$365
for a family of four, including lunch and
morning and afternoon tea. Transfers
from Brisbane hotels are an extra A$30
per person. And there’s a guarantee
you’ll see a whale—or you can take
another cruise for free.

7
BRISBANE

Brisbane’s Moreton Bay & Islands

resort runs tours. Permits for access (A$38 per vehicle) and camping (A$5 per person,
or A$20 for a family) are available from national park rangers and ferry operators,
or online at www.derm.qld.gov.au.

GETTING THERE & GETTING AROUND High-speed catamarans
(& 1300/652 250 in Australia, or 07/3637 2000) leave Brisbane’s Holt Street
wharf at Pinkenba for Tangalooma Island Resort on Moreton Island (see “Where to
Stay on the Islands,” below) three times daily, at 7:30 and 10am, and 5pm (12:30pm
on Mon and Sat–Sun). The trip takes 75 minutes. Return transfers leave Tangalooma
at 9am and 4pm and after the evening dolphin feeding session at 7pm every
day. On weekends and Mondays, they also leave at 2pm. The fare is A$70 adults,
A$36 children 3 to 14. For A$14 per adult and A$8 per child, each way, coaches pick
up passengers at the Roma Street Transit Centre, the Brisbane airport, and city
hotels to connect with the 10am and 4pm launches. There is a range of day-trip
options, starting from A$40 for adults, A$25 for children 3 to 14, and A$120 for a
family of four (extra children A$15 each). Moreton Island Ferries’ MiCat vehicular
and passenger ferry (& 07/3909 3333; www.moretonventure.com) departs from
the Port of Brisbane (14 Howard Smith Dr.) for Tangalooma Monday to Saturday at
8:30am and 1pm, returning at 10:30am and 3:30pm, and on Sundays at 8:30am and
2:30pm, returning at 1 and 4:30pm. The trip takes about 2 hours; round-trip fares
for walk-on passengers are A$50 adults, A$35 children 4 to 14, or A$140 for a family
of five. The cost for a four-wheel-drive and two passengers is A$190 to A$220.
The company also runs day tours to the island, which include some of the beauty
spots, snorkeling and sandboarding (all equipment provided), and lunch. Prices
range from A$99 to A$155 adults and A$65 to A$95 children depending on the tour
inclusions. Timetables tend to change seasonally, so check the website.

265


BRISBANE

Brisbane’s Moreton Bay & Islands

St. Helena Island


For 65 years, from 1867 to 1932, St. Helena was a prison island, known as the
“hellhole of the Pacific” to the nearly 4,000 souls incarcerated there. Today, the
prison ruins are a tourist attraction, with a small museum in the restored and reconstructed
Deputy Superintendent’s Cottage.

GETTING THERE & GETTING AROUND Entry to the island is by guided
tour only. Excellent tours, most involving a reenactment of life on the island jail, are
run by AB Sea Cruises (&1300/438 787 in Australia or 07/3893 1240, 8:30am–
4:30pm Mon–Sat; www.abseacruises.com.au) on the launch Cat-o-Nine-Tails, leaving
from Manly Boat Harbour. The cost is A$69 adults, A$64 seniors and students,
A$39 children ages 17 and under, or A$169 for a family of four. Tours operate on
Wednesdays, leaving at 9:15am and returning at 2:15pm, and on Sundays leaving at
10am and returning at 3pm. The price includes a box lunch. St. Helena Ghost
Tours run from Manly Boat Harbour on Saturday nights. They include dinner, a
dramatized version of life in the prison, and a few spooky surprises. Night tours leave
at 7pm and return at 11pm (A$90 adults, A$85 seniors and students, A$50 children,
and A$230 for a family). Reservations are essential. To reach Manly Boat Harbour
from Brisbane, take the train from Central Station to Manly (A$5.30) and walk
100m (328 ft.). The trip takes 50 minutes.

Where to Stay on the Islands

Moreton and South Stradbroke islands have resorts, and North Stradbroke has
plenty of low-key accommodations. The smaller islands offer a variety of motels,
cabins, motor-home parks, and camping grounds.

Couran Cove Island Resort


You’ll be lucky if you’re able to find a
more peaceful resort than this one. South Stradbroke Island has no cars—everyone
gets around on foot, bicycle, or silent electric shuttle. You can hang around the pools
or lagoon, head to the spectacular surf beach about 2km (11.4 miles) from the main
resort, or stroll through remnants of primeval rainforest. The resort is committed to
environmentally friendly practices and is unique for its huge range of recreational and
sporting activities, including a three-lane sprint track, baseball and softball pitching
cage, and high ropes challenge course. There’s also beach volleyball, lawn bowling,
shuffleboard, a golf driving range, surfing, fishing, stargazing tours, many watersports,
and an extensive day spa. Accommodations offer a choice of hotel-style rooms or selfcontained
units. I like the colorful waterfront units, which have water views and are
close to the restaurants and spa. All have kitchenettes or kitchens, and there’s a general
store and limited room service as well. Smoking is allowed only in designated
outdoor areas and on balconies; no tobacco products are sold at the resort.

South Stradbroke Island, Moreton Bay (P.O. Box 224, Runaway Bay), QLD 4216. &1800/268 726 or
07/5509 3000. Fax 07/5509 3001. www.couran.com. 223 units. A$265 marine deluxe rooms; A$295
marine suite; A$495 2-bedroom lodge; A$805–A$905 4-bedroom villa. Children 13 and under stay free
in parent’s room using existing bedding. Extra person A$40 per night. Free crib. AE, DC, MC, V. Roundtrip
ferry transfers A$49 adults, A$27 children 3–14, A$125 family. Amenities: 3 restaurants; babysitting;
bikes; children’s programs; 2 fully equipped exercise rooms; golf driving range and putting green; free
transfers to mainland golf courses; 10-lane heated pool and children’s pool; room service; spa; 2 tennis
courts. In room: A/C, TV/VCR w/pay movies, hair dryer, Internet, kitchen, minibar (on request).


Tangalooma Wild Dolphin Resort


Once the Southern Hemisphere’s
largest whaling station, Tangalooma is the only resort on Moreton Island. Its big
attraction is the pod of wild dolphins that visits the jetty each evening. Guests are
guaranteed one chance during their visit to hand-feed the dolphins, but don’t get too
excited—you can’t swim with or touch them. The feeding is regulated, and your turn
is over in a few seconds. Day-trippers can also take part in dolphin feeding for A$90
adults and A$50 children 3 to 14, as part of a day cruise.

Tangalooma is a good base for exploring the island, and a variety of tours are available,
among them are seasonal (late June–Oct) whale-watching cruises for a rate of
A$98 adults, A$60 children, and a Dugong Eco Cruise for A$58 adults and A$44
children. A dolphin research center is also based here.

There are lots of different accommodation options at Tangalooma. Deep Blue is
a complex of two- and three-bedroom luxury beachfront apartments with views
across Moreton Bay. The apartments have access to a private pool and barbecue
areas, and have an optional lock-up garage. The resort also has 96 hotel rooms (built
in 2002), 56 two-story family villas a year or so older, and older units which sleep
four to five people. Villas are pricier than regular rooms, and a little farther from the
resort facilities. Each has a full kitchen. A general store is on-site.

Moreton Island, off Brisbane (P.O. Box 1102, Eagle Farm), QLD 4009. &1300/652 250 or 07/3268 6333.
Fax 07/3268 6299. www.tangalooma.com. 298 units, all with shower only. A$290–A$450 double;
A$340–A$400 double for 1-bedroom apt (sleeps 5); A$380–A$480 double villa (sleeps 8). Extra adult
A$30. Children 3–14 sharing with adults A$30. Rates include dolphin feeding. Rates for Deep Blue apts
start at around A$600 double in low season and vary depending on the individual apt, number of guests,
and level of servicing. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 4 restaurants; 2 cafes; 3 bars; babysitting; children’s’
programs; driving range; putting green; Jacuzzi; 2 outdoor pools; limited room service (6–9pm daily);
tennis and squash courts; watersports equipment rental. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, minibar.

7
BRISBANE

Brisbane’s Moreton Bay & Islands

267


QUEENSLAND
& THE GREAT
BARRIER REEF


by Lee Mylne

8 With a population that clings to the coast but
embraces the Outback for its icons, Queensland
is a vast and sprawling amalgam of stunning
scenery, fantastic yarns, and eccentric personalities. Its
most famous attraction is the Great Barrier Reef—but that
is by no means the only thing worth seeing in an area that’s
two and a half times the size of Texas.

White sandy beaches grace almost the entire coastline, and a string of
islands and coral reefs dangles just offshore. At the southern end, Gold
Coast beaches and theme parks keep tourists happy. In the north, from
Townsville to Cape York, the rainforest teems with flora and fauna.

Brisbane is the state capital, a former penal colony that today brims
with style. While Brisbane boasts world-class theater, shopping, markets,
art galleries, and restaurants, it retains the relaxed warmth of a country
town. For more on this city, see chapter 7, p. 236.

Less than an hour’s drive south of Brisbane is the Gold Coast “glitter
strip,” with its 35km (22 miles) of surf and sandy beaches. North of
Brisbane lies the aptly named Sunshine Coast—more sandy beaches,
crystal-clear waters, and rolling mountains dotted with villages.

Don’t miss the wild beauty of the largest sand island in the world,
Fraser Island. Each year, from August to October, humpback whales
frolic in the waters between Fraser Island and Hervey Bay. If you’re in the
area at this time, you won’t want to miss the opportunity to experience
the whales firsthand.

As you travel north, you enter a land where islands, rainforest, mountains,
and rivers unite. Green sugar cane fields are everywhere—Mackay
is the largest sugar-producing region in Australia. This attractive city has its
own beach, and the harbor and Airlie Beach to the north are departure
points for cruises to the Great Barrier Reef and the Whitsunday Islands.
Along this coast, you’ll be tempted by one tropical island after another until
you hit the cluster of 74 that makes up the Whitsunday and Cumberland
groups.


The Whitsundays are on the same latitude as Tahiti, and for my money are equally
lovely. The idyllic island group is laced with coral reefs rising out of calm, blue
waters teeming with colorful fish—warm enough for swimming year-round.

North of the Whitsundays are Dunk Island and the rainforest settlement of
Mission Beach—a perfect illustration of the contrasts in Tropical North
Queensland. Townsville boasts 320 days of sunshine a year and marks the start of
the Great Green Way—an area of lush natural beauty on the way to Cairns.

Then you come to Cairns, with rainforest hills and villages to explore and a harbor
full of boats waiting to take you to the Reef. Cairns is a good base, but savvy
travelers head an hour north to the village of Port Douglas.

A visit to Queensland would not be complete without at least one trip into the
Outback. You can head west from Rockhampton, to discover the heart of Queensland
at Longreach, Barcaldine, and Winton, or from Townsville to the mining town of
Mount Isa. From Cairns, the Gulf Savannah region is rich in welcoming small towns.

Exploring the Queensland Coast

VISITOR INFORMATION The Queensland Travel Centre is a great resource
on traveling and touring the state, including the Great Barrier Reef. Visit the
Queensland Holidays website at www.queenslandholidays.com.au, or call & 13 88
33 in Australia to speak to a Queensland travel specialist. Tourism Queensland, which
runs the Queensland Travel Centre and Destination Queensland, has offices in the
United States and the United Kingdom—see “Visitor Information” in chapter 17.

Travel Online (&07/3512 8100; fax 07/3876 4645; www.travelonline.com) is
a Queensland-based private company offering itinerary planning and booking services
for a wide range of accommodations and tours throughout the state.

For information on B&Bs and farmstays in Cairns, Port Douglas, Mission Beach,
and Townsville, contact the Bed & Breakfast and Farmstay Association of Far
North Queensland, P.O. Box 595, Ravenshoe, QLD 4888 (& 07/4097 7022;
www.bnbnq.com.au).

WHEN TO GO Winter (June–Aug) is high season in Queensland; the water can
be chilly—at least to Australians—but its temperature rarely drops below 72°F
(22°C). April through October is peak visibility time for divers. Summer is hot and
sticky across the state. In North Queensland (Mission Beach, Cairns, and Port
Douglas), the monsoonal Wet season is from November or December through
March or April. It brings heavy rains, high temperatures, extreme humidity, and
cyclones. But it’s no problem to visit then, and the Wet season allows an unusual
opportunity to explore this region during a time when it deserves its alternative
name: the “Green” season.

GETTING AROUND By Car The Bruce Highway travels along the coast from
Brisbane to Cairns. It is mostly a narrow two-lane highway, and the scenery most of
the way is eucalyptus bushland, but from Mackay north, you pass through sugar
cane fields, adding some variety to the trip.

Tourism Queensland (see “Visitor Information,” above) publishes regional motoring
guides. All you are likely to need, however, is a state map from the Royal Automobile
Club of Queensland (RACQ; & 13 19 05 in Australia). In Brisbane,
you can get maps and advice from the centrally located RACQ office in the General
Post Office (GPO) building, 261 Queen St. (&07/3872 8465). For recorded road

8
QUEENSLAND BARRIER

Introduction

269


QUEENSLAND & THE GREAT BARRIER REEF

Introduction


Torres Strait

Cape York
Cape YorkCape York
0100 mi0
100 km

N
1
1
78
BamagaWeipaWeipa SouthLockhart RiverCoenMorningtonBurketownNormantonKarumbaCooktownPort DouglasMossmanCairnsLakelandTownsvilleMission BeachMareebaCharters TowersCamoowealKurandaGREAT
Cape WeymouthCape DirectionCape MelvilleMorningtonIslandFitzroy IslandMagnetic IslandOrpheus IslandBedarra IslandDunk IslandLizard IslandGreen IslandATHERTONTABLELANDArcher BendNat’l ParkRokebyCroll CreekNat’l ParkJardine RiverNational ParkIronRangeNat’l ParkMitchell &Alice RiverNat’l ParkStaaten RiverNat’l ParkYamanne FallsNat’l ParkDaintreeNat’l ParkCrystal CreekNat’l ParkCape Melville Nat’l ParkCape Tribulation Nat’l ParkNORTHERN TERRITORYNORTHERN TERRITORY
AliceR.
BamagaWeipaWeipa South
Lockhart RiverCoen
MorningtonBurketown
NormantonKarumba
CooktownPort DouglasMossmanCairns
Lakeland
TownsvilleMission Beach
MareebaCharters Towers
Camooweal
KurandaGREATCape WeymouthCape DirectionCape Melville
MorningtonIsland
Fitzroy IslandMagnetic IslandOrpheus IslandBedarra IslandDunk IslandLizard IslandGreen Island
ATHERTONTABLELAND
NORTHERN TERRITORY
Alice
R.
Gulf ofCarpentaria
Archer BendNat’l Park
RokebyCroll CreekNat’l ParkJardine RiverNational ParkIronRangeNat’l Park
Mitchell &Alice RiverNat’l ParkStaaten RiverNat’l Park
Yamanne FallsNat’l ParkDaintreeNat’l ParkCrystal CreekNat’l ParkCape Melville Nat’l ParkCape Tribulation Nat’l Park
AUSTRALIAA
U
S
T
R
A
L
I
AAUSTRALIACanberraCanberraPerthPerthBrisbaneBrisbaneDarwinDarwinSydneySydneyCanberra
Perth
BrisbaneDarwin
Sydney
MelbourneMelbourneMelbourneQUEENSLANDQUEENSLANDQUEENSLAND
CoralSea

PACIFICOCEAN

Queensland



QUEENSLAND BARRIER Introduction
66
7866
66
71
71
54
Tropic
of
Capricorn
See Chapter 7
Mt. IsaCloncurryJuliaCreekRichmondHugendenPentlandMiddletonWintonBouliaBedourieLongreachMuttaburraClermontMoranbanBirdsvilleEmeraldarlboroughMackayRockhamptonGladstoneProsperineBundabergMaryboroughBrisbaneToowoombaIpswichWarwickCunnamullaBourkeCoolangattaSurersParadiseGraftonNambourNoosa HeadsCharlevilleAirlie BeachGin GinChildersHerveyBayGREATDIVIDINGRANGESUNSHINE COAST
REEFBrampton IslandHook Is.Whitsunday Is.Daydream Is.
WhitsundayIslandsLady ElliotIslandHeron IslandGreat Keppel IslandFraser Is.
DARLINGDOWNSQUEENSLAND
SOUTHAUSTRALIA
NEW
SOUTH
WALES
BalonneR.
CooloolaNat’l ParkLamingtonNat’l ParkCarnarvon GorgeNat’l ParkTamborineNat’l ParkFraser IslandNat’l ParkBruce HwyPacificHwyMacintyreR.
Mt. Isa
Cloncurry
JuliaCreek
Richmond
Hugenden
Pentland
Middleton
Winton
BouliaBedourie
LongreachMuttaburra
ClermontMoranban
Birdsville
Emerald
Marlborough
Mackay
RockhamptonGladstone
Prosperine
BundabergMaryboroughBrisbaneToowoomba
IpswichWarwick
Cunnamulla
Bourke
CoolangattaSurfersParadise
GraftonNambourNoosa Heads
Charleville
Airlie Beach
Gin GinChilders
HerveyBay
GREAT
DIVIDING
RA N G E
GOLDCOASTSUNSHINE COAST
REEFBrampton IslandHook Is.Whitsunday Is.Daydream Is.
WhitsundayIslands
Lady ElliotIslandHeron IslandGreat Keppel Island
Fraser Is.
DARLINGDOWNS
QUEENSLAND
SOUTHAUSTRALIA
NEW SOUTH WALES
Balonne
R.
Macintyre
R.
CooloolaNat’l ParkLamingtonNat’l Park
Carnarvon GorgeNat’l Park
TamborineNat’l Park
Fraser IslandNat’l Park
Bruce Hwy
PacificHwy
66
7866
66
71
71
54
Tropic
of
Capricorn
See Chapter 7
Mt. IsaCloncurryJuliaCreekRichmondHugendenPentlandMiddletonWintonBouliaBedourieLongreachMuttaburraClermontMoranbanBirdsvilleEmeraldarlboroughMackayRockhamptonGladstoneProsperineBundabergMaryboroughBrisbaneToowoombaIpswichWarwickCunnamullaBourkeCoolangattaSurersParadiseGraftonNambourNoosa HeadsCharlevilleAirlie BeachGin GinChildersHerveyBayGREATDIVIDINGRANGESUNSHINE COAST
REEFBrampton IslandHook Is.Whitsunday Is.Daydream Is.
WhitsundayIslandsLady ElliotIslandHeron IslandGreat Keppel IslandFraser Is.
DARLINGDOWNSQUEENSLAND
SOUTHAUSTRALIA
NEW
SOUTH
WALES
BalonneR.
CooloolaNat’l ParkLamingtonNat’l ParkCarnarvon GorgeNat’l ParkTamborineNat’l ParkFraser IslandNat’l ParkBruce HwyPacificHwyMacintyreR.
Mt. Isa
Cloncurry
JuliaCreek
Richmond
Hugenden
Pentland
Middleton
Winton
BouliaBedourie
LongreachMuttaburra
ClermontMoranban
Birdsville
Emerald
Marlborough
Mackay
RockhamptonGladstone
Prosperine
BundabergMaryboroughBrisbaneToowoomba
IpswichWarwick
Cunnamulla
Bourke
CoolangattaSurfersParadise
GraftonNambourNoosa Heads
Charleville
Airlie Beach
Gin GinChilders
HerveyBay
GREAT
DIVIDING
RA N G E
GOLDCOASTSUNSHINE COAST
REEFBrampton IslandHook Is.Whitsunday Is.Daydream Is.
WhitsundayIslands
Lady ElliotIslandHeron IslandGreat Keppel Island
Fraser Is.
DARLINGDOWNS
QUEENSLAND
SOUTHAUSTRALIA
NEW SOUTH WALES
Balonne
R.
Macintyre
R.
CooloolaNat’l ParkLamingtonNat’l Park
Carnarvon GorgeNat’l Park
TamborineNat’l Park
Fraser IslandNat’l Park
Bruce Hwy
PacificHwy
8
271


When to Visit the Reef
April through November is the best
time to visit the Great Barrier Reef,
although southeast trade winds can
sometimes make it a tad choppy
at sea. December through March can
be uncomfortably hot and humid,
particularly as far north as the Whitsundays,
Cairns, and Port Douglas. In the
winter months (June–Aug), the water
can be a touch chilly (Aussies think so,
anyway), but it rarely drops below 72°F
(22°C).

QUEENSLAND & THE GREAT BARRIER REEF

Exploring the Great Barrier Reef

8

condition reports, call &1300/130 595. Specialist map shop World Wide Maps
& Guides, in the Anzac Square Arcade, 267 Edward St., Brisbane (& 07/3221
4330; www.worldwidemaps.com.au) is open Monday to Thursday 8:30am to 5pm
and until 7pm on Fridays, and 10am to 3pm on Saturdays. They stock a wide range
of Australia maps, atlases, street directories—indeed, almost anything map-related
you can think of—or you can browse and buy online.

BY TRAIN Queensland Rail’s Traveltrain (& 1300/131 722 in Australia or
07/3235 7322 www.traveltrain.com.au) operates two long-distance trains along the
Brisbane-Cairns route, a 32-hour trip aboard the Sunlander or about 8 hours less
on the high-speed Tilt Train. See the “Getting There & Getting Around” section in
chapter 3, p. 43, for more details. Traveltrain also operates trains to Outback towns.
See “Making Tracks through Queensland’s Outback,” p. 382.

BY PLANE This is the fastest way to see a lot in such a big state. Qantas (&13
13 13 in Australia; www.qantas.com.au) and its subsidiaries QantasLink and the
no-frills Jetstar (&13 15 38 in Australia; www.jetstar.com.au) serve most coastal
towns from Brisbane, and a few from Cairns. Virgin Blue (&13 67 89 in Australia;
www.virginblue.com.au) services Brisbane, Cairns, Townsville, Mackay, Proserpine
and Hamilton Island in the Whitsundays, Rockhampton, Hervey Bay (the
Fraser Coast), the Gold Coast, and Maroochydore on the Sunshine Coast.

EXPLORING THE GREAT
BARRIER REEF


It’s the only living thing on earth visible from the moon; at 348,700 sq. km (135,993
sq. miles), it’s bigger than the United Kingdom and more than 2,000km (1,240
miles) long, stretching from Lady Elliot Island off Bundaberg to Papua New Guinea;
it’s home to 1,500 kinds of fish, 400 species of corals, 4,000 kinds of clams and
snails, and who knows how many sponges, starfish, and sea urchins; the Great Barrier
Reef region is listed as a World Heritage Site and contains the biggest marine
park in the world.

There are three kinds of reef on the Great Barrier Reef—fringing, ribbon, and
platform. Fringing reef is the stuff you see just off the shore of islands and along
the mainland. Ribbon reefs create “streamers” of long, thin reef along the outer
edge of the continental shelf and are only found north of Cairns. Platform or patch
reefs can be up to 16 sq. km (10 sq. miles) of coral emerging off the continental
shelf all the way along the Reef’s length. Platform reefs, the most common kind, are


what most people think of when they refer to the Great Barrier Reef. Island resorts
in the Great Barrier Reef Marine Park are either “continental,” meaning part of the
Australian landmass, or “cays,” crushed dead coral and sand amassed on the reef
tops over time by water action. Dazzling coral and marine life surround the cays. On
continental islands and coast, the coral is higher in diversity; but the visibility, due
to soil runoff from the land, can be of varying quality.

Apart from the impressive fish life around the corals, the Reef is home to large
numbers of green and loggerhead turtles, one of the biggest dugong (a relative of the
manatee) populations in the world, sharks, giant manta rays, and sea snakes. In winter
(June–Aug), humpback whales gather in the warm waters south of the Reef around
Hervey Bay, in the Whitsundays, and as far north as Cairns to give birth to calves.

To see the Reef, you can snorkel, dive, ride a semisubmersible, walk on it, or fly
over it. For most people, the Great Barrier Reef means the Outer Reef, the network
of reefs that lie an average of 65km (40 miles) off the coast (about 60–90 min. by

boat from the mainland). You should

was formed and how coral grows to
what dangerous creatures to avoid and how to take successful underwater photos.
The presentation takes place throughout the year upstairs in the Mainstreet Arcade,
85 Lake St., Cairns, Tuesday through Saturday from 6:30 to 8:30pm, and costs A$15
adults and A$8 children under 14. Bookings are not necessary; just turn up and pay
at the door.

Townsville is the headquarters of the Great Barrier Reef Marine Park Authority,
and a visit to its showcase, Reef HQ (p. 320), is a superb introduction. The star
attraction at the aquarium is a re-created living-reef ecosystem in a massive viewing
tank. Find out more about the Reef from the Great Barrier Reef Marine Park
Authority (& 07/4750 0700; fax 07/4772 6093; www.gbrmpa.gov.au or www.
reefhq.com.au).

Discovering the Reef

The rich colors of the coral can be seen best with lots of light, so the nearer the
surface, the brighter and richer the marine life. That means snorkelers are in a prime
position to see it at its best. Snorkeling the Reef can be a wondrous experience.
Green and purple clams, pink sponges, red starfish, purple sea urchins, and fish
from electric blue to neon yellow to lime are truly magical sights.

If your Reef cruise offers a guided snorkel tour or “snorkel safari,” take it. Some
include it as part of the price, but even if you pay an extra A$30 or so, it is worth it.

get out and see that, but there is
plenty of fringing reef to explore
around islands closer to the mainland.
Learning about the Reef before you
get there will enhance your visit. Reef
Teach (& 07/4031 7794;
http://reefteach.wordpress.com) is an
evening multimedia presentation by a
team of experienced marine biolo-
gists, conservationists, and research-
ers. You will learn everything you need
to know about the Reef, from how it
Every passenger over 4 years old must
pay a A$4.50 daily Environmental Man-
agement Charge (EMC), commonly
called the “reef tax,” every time they
visit the Great Barrier Reef. This money
goes toward the management and con-
servation of the Reef. Your tour opera-
tor will collect it from you when you
pay for your trip.
The Reef Tax
8
QUEENSLAND BARRIER

Exploring Barrier

273


QUEENSLAND & THE GREAT BARRIER REEF

Exploring the Great Barrier Reef

Most safaris are suitable for beginners and advanced snorkelers, and are led by guides
trained by marine biologists who tell you about the sea creatures you are seeing.
Snorkeling is easy to master, and crews on cruise boats are always happy to tutor you.

A day trip to the Reef also offers a great opportunity to go scuba diving—even if
you have never dived before. Every major cruise boat listed in “Day Trips to the Reef”
(see below) and many dedicated dive boats listed in “Diving the Reef” (later in this
chapter) offer introductory dives that allow you to dive without certification to a
depth of 6m (20 ft.) in the company of an instructor. You will need to complete a
medical questionnaire and undergo a 30-minute briefing on the boat. (Intro dives
are also called “resort dives” because many resorts offer something similar, giving you
1 or 2 hr. of instruction before taking you to a nearby reef to dive.)

Choosing a Gateway to the Reef

Cairns and Port Douglas are good places from which to visit the Reef—but the
quality of the coral is just as good off any town along the coast between Bundaberg
and Cairns. The Reef is pretty much equidistant from any point on the coast north
of Mission Beach—about 90 minutes away by high-speed catamaran. From Townsville,
the Reef is about 21.2 hours away.

Think carefully about where to base yourself. The main gateways, north to south,
are Port Douglas, Cairns, Mission Beach, Townsville, the Whitsunday
Islands, Gladstone (for Heron Island), and Bundaberg. The Whitsundays have
the added attractions of dazzling islands to sail among; beautiful island resorts offering
a wealth of watersports and other activities; and a large array of diving, fishing,
and day cruises. Most important, you can snorkel every day off your island or join a
sailing or cruise day trip to a number of magnificent fringing or inner shelf reefs
much nearer than the main Outer Reef. Many people stay in Cairns simply because
of its easy international airport access.

If you are a nonswimmer, choose a Reef cruise that visits a coral cay, because a cay
slopes gradually into shallow water and the surrounding coral. The Low Isles at Port
Douglas; Green Island, Michaelmas Cay, or Upolu Cay off Cairns; Beaver Cay
off Mission Beach; and Heron Island are all good locations. Remember that staff will
supply you with swimmer supports, allowing nonswimmers snorkel opportunities, too.

Day Trips to the Reef

The most common way to get to the Reef is on one of the motorized catamarans that
carry up to 300 passengers each from Cairns, Port Douglas, Townsville, Mission
Beach, the Whitsunday mainland and islands, and Yeppoon, near Rockhampton.


Reef Health & Safety Warnings
Coral is very sharp, and coral cuts get
infected quickly and badly. If you cut
yourself, ask the staff on your cruise
boat for immediate first aid as soon as
you come out of the water.
The sun and reflected sunlight off
the water can burn you fast. Remember
to put sunscreen on your back and the
back of your legs, especially around
your knees and the back of your neck,
and even behind your ears—all places
that rarely get exposed to the sun but
will be exposed as you swim facedown.
Apply more when you leave the water.


The boats are air-conditioned and have a bar, videos, and educational material, as
well as a marine biologist who gives a talk on the Reef’s ecology en route. The boats
tie up at their own private permanent pontoons anchored to a platform reef. The
pontoons have glass-bottom boats for passengers who don’t want to get wet, dry
underwater viewing chambers, usually a bar, sun decks, shaded seats, and often
showers.

An alternative to traveling on a big tour boat is to go on one of the many smaller
boats. These typically visit two or three Reef sites rather than just one. There are
usually no more than 20 passengers, so you get more personal attention, and you get
to know the other passengers. Another advantage is that you will have the coral
pretty much all to yourself. The drawbacks of a small boat are that you have only the
cramped deck to sit on when you get out of the water, and your traveling time to the
Reef may be longer. If you’re a nervous snorkeler, you may feel safer on a boat where
you will be swimming with 300 other people.

Most day-trip fares include snorkel gear—fins, mask, and snorkel (plus wet suits
in winter, although you rarely need them)—free use of the underwater viewing chambers
and glass-bottom-boat rides, a plentiful buffet or barbecue lunch, and morning
and afternoon refreshments. Diving is an optional activity for which you pay extra.
The big boats post snorkeling scouts to keep a lookout for anyone in trouble and to
count heads periodically. If you wear glasses, ask whether your boat offers prescription
masks—this could make a big difference to the quality of your experience! Don’t
forget, you can travel as a snorkel-only passenger on most dive boats, too.

The major launching points for day trips to the Reef are Port Douglas, Cairns,
Mission Beach, Townsville, and the Whitsundays (see individual sections on these
regions later in this chapter).

Major Reef Sites

FROM CAIRNS Approximately 20 reefs lie within a 11.2- to 2-hour boat ride from
Cairns. These are the reefs most commonly visited by snorkelers and divers on day
trips, because they are so close and so pretty. Some reefs are small coral “bommies,”
or outcrops, that you can swim completely around in a matter of minutes, whereas
others are miles wide. Some reefs have more than one good dive site; Norman Reef,
for example, has at least four. Three of the most popular reefs with snorkelers and
divers are Hastings, Saxon, and Norman , which are all within a short boat ride
of one another. Each has a wonderful array of coral, big colorful reef fish, schools of
pretty rainbow-hued small reef fish, and the odd giant clam. Green sea turtles and
white-tip reef sharks are common, especially at Saxon, though you will not necessarily
spot one every day. Divers may see a moray eel and a grouper or two, barracuda,
reef sharks, eagle and blue-spotted rays, and octopus. Norman is an especially lovely
reef with several nice sites. South Norman has lovely sloping coral shelves. If you
are an experienced diver and like swim-throughs, the Caves at Norman is a good
spot; all have boulder and plate corals.

Some of the best diving anywhere on the Great Barrier Reef is on the Ribbon
Reefs


on the outer Reef edge, which fringes the continental shelf northward off
Cairns and Port Douglas. Glorious coral walls, abundant fish, and pinnacles make
these a rich, colorful dive area with lots of variety. The currents can be strong here,
because the reefs force the tidal water flow into narrow channels into the open sea,
so drift dives on a rising tide are a possibility. The Ribbon Reefs are beyond the reach
8
QUEENSLAND BARRIER

Exploring Barrier

275


QUEENSLAND & THE GREAT BARRIER REEF

Exploring the Great Barrier Reef

Spirit of Freedom (&07/4047 9150;
fax 07/4047 9110; www.spiritoffreedom.
com.au) in Cairns offers a chance to
“sleep on the Reef” aboard the 36m
(120-ft.) Spirit of Freedom, a sleek,
modern motor yacht with electronic
stabilizers, a widescreen TV with DVD
player, comfortable lounge areas, sun
decks, and 11 luxury double or quad
shared cabins, each with an en-suite
bathroom. There are 3-, 4-, and 7-day
cruises to choose from. You will visit
the popular Cod Hole and Ribbon Reef
and, on the 4- and 7-day trips, venture
into the Coral Sea. A 3-day, 3-night trip
will cost A$1,350 to A$2,125 depending
on your choice of cabin and ends with
a 193km (120-mile) one-way low-level
flight from Lizard Island back to Cairns.
The 4-day, 4-night cruise begins with
the flight and then cruises from Lizard
Island back to Cairns. It costs between
A$1,675 and A$2,425 and includes up
to 16 dives. A 7-day cruise, priced from
A$2,775 to A$4,300 is a combination
of both shorter trips. On a 3-day trip
you will fit in up to 11 dives, and up to
27 on the 7-day trip. Prices include
meals and pickup from your Cairns
accommodations. Allow A$120 to
A$245 extra for equipment rental.
Overnighting on the Reef
of day boats, but are commonly visited by live-aboard boats (see “Overnighting on
the Reef,” above). For divers, experts recommend Steve’s Bommie and Dynamite
Pass. Steve’s Bommie is a coral outcrop in 30m (98 ft.) of water, often topped with
barracudas, and covered in colorful coral and small marine life. You can swim
through a tunnel here amid crowds of fish. Dynamite Pass is a channel where barracuda,
trevally, grouper, mackerel, and tuna often gather to feed in the current.
Black coral trees and sea whips grow on the walls, patrolled by eagle rays and reef
sharks.

Cairns’s most famous dive site is Cod Hole , where your guide may hand-feed
giant potato cod as big as you are. The site also has Maori wrasse, moray eels, and
coral trout. Cod Hole is about 20km (13 miles) off Lizard Island and 240km (149
miles) north of Cairns, so it is not a day trip unless you are staying at exclusive Lizard
Island (see “Where to Stay,” later in this chapter). However, it is a popular stop
with just about every live-aboard vessel, often combined in a trip to the Ribbon
Reefs, lasting about 4 days, or in a trip to the Coral Sea (see below), lasting between
4 and 7 days. Either itinerary makes an excellent dive vacation.

Keen divers looking for adventure in far-flung latitudes can visit the Far Northern
region of the Great Barrier Reef, much farther north than most dive boats
venture. Up in this region you will find a wide choice of good sites, little explored by
the average diver. Visibility is always clear. Silvertip City on Mantis Reef has
sharks, pelagics, potato cod, and lionfish that patrol a wall up to 46m (150 ft.) deep.
Another goodie is the Magic Cave swim-through adorned with lots of colorful fans,
soft corals, and small reef fish. Sleeping turtles are often spotted in caves on the
reefs off Raine Island, the world’s biggest green turtle rookery. Visibility averages
24m (80 ft.) at Rainbow Wall, a colorful wall that makes a nice gentle drift dive with
the incoming tide.

More than 100 to 200km (63–126 miles) east of the coast, out in the Coral Sea,
isolated mountains covered in reefs rise more than a kilometer (half-mile) from the


ocean floor to make excellent diving. Although not within the Great Barrier Reef
Marine Park, the Coral Sea is often combined into an extended live-aboard trip that
also takes in Cod Hole and the Ribbon Reefs. The entire trip usually takes 4 to 7
days. In addition to showing you huge schools of pelagic and reef fish big and small,
a wide range of corals, and gorgonian fans, the area is a prime place to spot sharks.
The most popular site is Osprey Reef, a 100-sq.-km (39-sq.-mile) reef with 1,000m
(3,300-ft.) drop-offs, renowned for its year-round visibility of up to 70m (230 ft.).
White-tip reef sharks are common, but the area is also home to gray reef sharks,
silvertips, and hammerheads. Green turtles, tuna, barracuda, potato cod, mantas,
and grouper are also common.

Closer to shore, Cairns has several coral cays and reef-fringed islands within the
Great Barrier Reef Marine Park. Less than an hour from the city wharf, Green
Island is a 15-hectare (37-acre) coral cay with snorkeling equal to that of most other
places on the Great Barrier Reef. It is also a popular diving spot. You can visit it in
half a day if time is short. Fitzroy Island is a rainforest-covered national park, just
45 minutes by launch from Cairns, with a coral beach and great snorkeling right off
the shore.

The Frankland Islands are a pristine group of uninhabited rainforest isles,
edged with sandy beaches, reefs, and fish, 45km (28 miles) south of Cairns. The
islands are a rookery for green sea turtles, which snorkelers and divers often spot
in the water. In February and March, you may even be lucky enough to see dozens
of baby turtles hatching in the sand. Michaelmas Cay and Upolu Cay are two
pretty coral sand blips in the ocean, 30km (19 miles) and 25km (16 miles) off
Cairns, surrounded by reefs. Michaelmas is vegetated and is home to 27,000 seabirds;
you may spot dugongs (cousins of manatees) off Upolu. Michaelmas and
Upolu are great for snorkelers and introductory divers, but experienced divers are
probably better off visiting the excellent sites at such reefs as Norman, Hastings, or
Saxon.

FROM PORT DOUGLAS The waters off Port Douglas boast just as many wonderful
reefs and marine life forms as the waters around Cairns; the reefs are equally
close to shore and equally colorful and varied. Some of the most visited reefs are
Tongue, Opal, and St. Crispin reefs. The Agincourt complex of reefs also has
many excellent dive sites; experts recommend the double-figure-eight swim-through
at the Three Sisters, where baby gray whaler sharks gather, and the wonderful coral
walls of Castle Rock, where stingrays often hide in the sand. Nursery Bommie is
a 24m (79-ft.) pinnacle that is a popular haunt with such big fish as barracuda, rays,
sharks, and moray eels; under the big plate corals of Light Reef, giant grouper hide
out. Other popular sites are the staghorn coral garden (so named because the coral
looks like a stag’s antlers) at the Playground; one of the region’s biggest swimthroughs
at the Maze, where parrot fish and an enormous Maori wrasse hang out;
the Stepping Stones, home of the exquisitely pretty clownfish (like Nemo!); Turtle
Bommie, where hawksbill turtles are frequently sighted; and Harry’s Bommie,
where divers see the occasional manta ray. Among the 15-plus dive sites visited by
Poseidon (see below) are Turtle Bay, where you may meet a friendly Maori wrasse;
the Cathedrals, a collection of coral pinnacles and swim-throughs; and Barracuda
Pass, home to coral gardens, giant clams, and schooling barracuda.

The closest Reef site off Port Douglas, the Low Isles, lies only 15km (9 miles)
northeast. Coral sand and 22 hectares (55 acres) of coral surround these two coral

8
QUEENSLAND BARRIER

Exploring Barrier

277


QUEENSLAND & THE GREAT BARRIER REEF

Exploring the Great Barrier Reef

cays; the smaller is a sand cay covered in rich vegetation and the larger is a shingle/
rubble cay covered in mangroves and home to thousands of nesting Torresian Imperial
pigeons. The coral is not quite as dazzling as the outer Reef’s—head to the outer
Reef if you have only 1 day to spend on the Great Barrier Reef—but the fish life here
is rich, and you may spot sea turtles. Because you can wade out to the coral right
from the beach, the Low Isles are a good choice for nervous snorkelers. A half-day
or day trip to the Low Isles makes for a more relaxing day than a visit to outer Reef
sites, because in addition to exploring the coral, you can walk or sunbathe on the
sand or laze under palm-thatched beach umbrellas. Note: If you visit the Low Isles,
wear old shoes, because the coral sand can be rough underfoot.

8
FROM MISSION BEACH Mission Beach is the closest point on the mainland
to the Reef, 1 hour by boat. The main site visited is Beaver Cay, a sandy coral cay
surrounded by marine life. The waters are shallow, making the cay ideal for snorkelers
eager to see the coral’s vibrant colors and novice divers still getting a feel for the
sport. It’s a perfect spot for an introductory dive.

FROM TOWNSVILLE Townsville’s waters boast hundreds of large patch reefs,
some miles long, and many rarely visited by humans. Here you can find excellent
coral and fish life, including mantas, rays, turtles, and sharks, and sometimes canyons
and swim-throughs in generally good visibility. One of the best reef complexes
is Flinders Reef, which is actually located in the Coral Sea, beyond the Great Barrier
Reef Marine Park boundaries. At 240km (149 miles) offshore, it has 30m (100ft.)
visibility, plenty of coral, and big walls and pinnacles with big fish to match, such
as whaler shark and barracuda.

What draws most divers to Townsville, though, is one of Australia’s best wreck
dives, the SS Yongala . Still largely intact, the sunken remains of this steamer
lie 90km (56 miles) from Townsville, 16km (10 miles) off the coast, in 15 to 30m
(50–98 ft.) of water, with visibility of 9 to 18m (approximately 30–60 ft.). A cyclone
sent the Yongala and its 49 passengers and 72-member crew to the bottom of the sea
in 1911. Today it’s surrounded by a mass of coral and marine life, including barracuda,
enormous grouper, rays, sea snakes, turtles, moray eels, shark, cod, and reef
fish. You cannot enter the ship, but swimming along its length allows you to see an
amazing array of marine life.

The Yongala is not for beginners—the boat is deep, and there is often a strong
current. Most dive companies require their customers to have advanced certification
or to have logged a minimum of 15 dives with open-water certification. The boat is
usually visited on a live-aboard trip of at least 2 days, but some companies run day
trips. There are also open-water certification dive courses that finish with a dive on
the Yongala, but freshly certified scuba hounds might be wise to skip this advanced
dive.

FROM THE WHITSUNDAYS Visitors to the Whitsundays get to have their
cake and eat it too; they can visit the outer Reef and enjoy some good dive and
snorkel sites in and around the islands. Many islands have rarely visited fringing
reefs, which you can explore in a rented dinghy. The reef here is just as good as off
Cairns, with many drop-offs and drift dives, a dazzling range of corals, and a rich
array of marine life, including whales, mantas, shark, reef fish, morays, turtles, and
pelagics. Visibility is usually around 15 to 23m (49–75 ft.).


The Stepping Stones, on 800-hectare (1,976-acre) Bait Reef, is one of the most
popular sites on the outer Reef. It is made up of a series of pinnacles that abound
with fish life and offer caverns, swim-throughs, and channels. A family of grouper
often greets divers at Groupers Grotto on Net Reef, and a pod of dolphins hang
around Net Reef ’s southeast wall. Oublier Reef has plate corals over 2m (7 ft.)
wide in its coral gardens.

Among the island sites, most folks’ favorite is Blue Pearl Bay


off Hayman
Island, whether they’re snorkeling or diving. It has loads of corals and some gorgonian
fans in its gullies, and heaps of reef fish, including Maori wrasse and sometimes
even manta rays. It’s a good place to make an introductory dive, walking right in off
the beach. Mantaray Bay on Hook Island is renowned for its range of marine life,
from small reef fish and nudibranchs to bigger pelagics farther out. Mantas hang
around here in November. Other good snorkel and dive spots are on Black and
Knuckle Reefs . A little island commonly called Bali Hai Island, between Hayman
and Hook islands, is a great place to be left to your own devices. You’ll see
soft-shelf and wall coral, tame Maori wrasse, octopus, turtles, reef shark, various
kinds of rays including mantas, eagles and cow-tails, plus loads of fish.
FROM BUNDABERG The southern reefs of the Great Barrier Reef are just as
prolific, varied, and colorful as the reefs farther north off Cairns. However, because
this part of the coast is less accessible by visitors and the reefs farther offshore, fewer
snorkel and dive boats visit them. Many are the virgin reefs in these parts that have
never seen a diver.

The only reef visited by snorkelers and divers on a daily basis from Bundaberg is
pretty Lady Musgrave Island, a vegetated 14-hectare (35-acre) national-park coral
cay, 52 nautical miles off the coast. It is surrounded by a lagoon 8km (5 miles) in
circumference, filled with hundreds of corals and some 1,200 of the 1,500 species
of fish and other marine creatures found on the Great Barrier Reef.

Lady Musgrave Island is one of the Bunker Group of islands and reefs, which
lie approximately 80km (50 miles) due north of Bundaberg. They are due east of
Gladstone and closer to that town, but only live-aboard boats visit them from there.
Farther south of Bunker Group is Lady Elliot Island, which is accessed by air.
Bundaberg’s Woongarra Marine Park lies outside the borders of the Great Barrier
Reef Marine Park and is a popular destination for divers visiting the Reef. This small
park hugs the town’s coastline in an area known as Bargara and has loads of soft and
hard corals, nudibranchs, wobbegongs, epaulette sharks, sea snakes, some 60 fish
species, and frequent sightings of green and loggerhead turtles. Most of this is in
water less than 9m (30 ft.) deep, and you can walk right into it off the beach.

Beyond Woongarra, 2.5 nautical miles (4.6km) offshore, is Cochrane artificial
reef, where a few Mohawk and Beechcraft aircraft have been dumped to make a
home for fish. Other sites off Bunbaberg, in about 23m (75 ft.) of water, include the
manta “cleaning station” at Evan’s Patch, a World War II Beaufort bomber
with lots of marine life.

Diving the Reef

Divers have a big choice: dive boats that make 1-day runs to the Outer Reef, overnight
stays on some boats, live-aboard dive boats making excursions that last up to
a week, or staying on an island. As a general rule, on a typical 5-hour day trip to the

8
QUEENSLAND BARRIER

Exploring Barrier

279


QUEENSLAND & THE GREAT BARRIER REEF

Exploring the Great Barrier Reef

Reef, you will fit in about two dives. The companies listed below give you an idea of
the kinds of trips available and how much they cost. This is by no means an exhaustive
list—there are far too many to include here. “Active Vacations,” in chapter 3,
has more tips for finding a dive operator. Prices quoted include full gear rental;
knock off about A$20 if you have your own gear. It is recommended that you only
dive with members of Dive Queensland, who follow a code of ethics and standards.
Dive Queensland’s website, www.dive-queensland.com.au, has a full list of member
companies and their contact details. All dive operators listed in this book are
members of Dive Queensland.

FROM CAIRNS Tusa Dive Charters (&07/4047 9100; www.tusadive.com)

8
runs a custom-built 24m (72-ft.) dive boat daily to two dive sites from a choice of 15
locations on the Outer Reef. The day costs A$210 for divers and A$155 adult or
A$95 child ages 4 to 14 for snorkelers, with wet suits, guided snorkel tours, lunch,
and transfers from your Cairns or northern beaches hotel. If you want to be shown
the best spots, you can take a guided dive for an extra A$10. Day trips for introductory
divers cost A$220 for one dive or A$255 for two. The boat takes a maximum of
60 people, with a staff-to-passenger ratio of one to six, so you get a good level of
personal attention.

FROM PORT DOUGLAS The waters off Port Douglas are home to dramatic
coral spires and swim-throughs at the Cathedrals; giant clams at Barracuda Pass; a
village of parrot fish, anemone fish, unicorn fish, and two moray eels at the pinnacle
of Nursery Bommie; fan corals at Split-Bommie; and many other wonderful sites.

The Poseidon (&1800/085 674 in Australia, or 07/4099 4772; www.poseidoncruises.
com.au) is a fast 24m (79-ft.) vessel that visits three Outer Reef sites. The
day-trip price of A$185 for adults, A$130 for kids 4 to 14, or A$569 for families of
four includes snorkel gear, a marine-biology talk, snorkel safaris, lunch, and pickups
from Port Douglas hotels. Certified divers pay A$220 for two dives or A$235 for three,
plus A$20 gear rental. Guides will accompany you, free of charge, to show you great
locations. Introductory divers pay A$55 extra for one dive, and A$40 each for the
second and third. The vessel gets you to the Reef in just over an hour, giving you 5
hours on the coral. The boat departs Marina Mirage daily at 8:30am. Transfers from
Cairns and the Northern Beaches cost an extra A$20 per adult and A$15 per child.

FROM TOWNSVILLE Off Townsville, you can dive not only the Reef but also
a wreck, the Yongala , which lies off the coast in 30m (98 ft.) of water with good
visibility. Adrenalin Dive (& 07/4724 0600; www.adrenalindive.com.au) runs
day trips in which you will do two dives on the Yongala. The cost is A$220, plus A$40
for gear hire and A$30 per dive for a guide, if you have logged fewer than 15 dives.

FROM THE WHITSUNDAYS In and around the Whitsunday Islands, you can
visit the Outer Reef and explore the many excellent dive sites close to shore. H20
Sportz (& 07/4946 9888; www.h2osportz.com.au), based at Hamilton Island
marina, runs day tours to Bait Reef, one of the best known locations on the Great
Barrier Reef. Tours are limited to 30 passengers and leave at 9:30am, returning at
5pm. That gives you 31.2 hours at the Reef, allowing plenty of time for lots of snorkeling
or two dives. The cost is A$169 adults, A$89 kids ages 4 to 14. One child 13
years or under travels free when accompanied by two adults. The cost includes
lunch, snacks, all snorkel equipment, and wet suit. Full gear hire is A$100 for certified
divers.


DIVE COURSES

Many dive companies in Queensland offer instruction, from initial open-water certification
all the way to dive-master, rescue-diver, and instructor level. To take a
course, you will need to have a medical exam done by a Queensland doctor. (Your
dive school will arrange it; it usually costs btw. A$45 and A$70). You can find out
more about dive medicals on www.divemedicals.com.au. You will also need two
passport photos for your certificate,

Don’t forget your “C” certification card.
Bringing along your dive log is also a
good idea. Remember not to fly for 24
hours after diving.
Diving Reminders
and you must be able to swim!
Courses usually begin every day or
every week. Some courses take as little
as 3 days, but 5 days is regarded as
the best. Open-water certification
usually requires 2 days of theory in a
pool, followed by 2 or 3 days on the

8
Reef, where you make four to nine
dives. Prices vary, but are generally around A$600 for a 5-day open-water certification
course, or A$500 for the same course over 4 nights.

Deep Sea Divers Den (& 07/4046 7333; www.diversden.com.au) has been
in operation since 1974 and claims to have certified about 55,000 divers. Courses
range from a 4-day open-water course with 2 days of theory in the pool in Cairns,
and 2-day trips to the Reef for A$540 per person, to 5- and 6-day courses with 3
nights on a live-aboard boat. The 6-day course costs A$1,110 per person, including
all meals on the boat, 13 dives (two are guided night dives), all your gear, a wet suit,
and transfers from your city hotel. All courses also incur a A$15 per day charge for
Reef tax, port and administration charges, and fuel levy. New courses begin every
day of the week.

Virtually every Great Barrier Reef dive operator offers dive courses. Most island
resorts offer them, too. You will find dive schools in Cairns, Port Douglas, Mission
Beach, Townsville, and the Whitsunday Islands. Dive Queensland provides a list of
its members who follow a code of ethics and standards on its website, www.divequeensland.
com.au. We recommend that you only dive with members of Dive
Queensland. Companies offering dive courses appear under the relevant regional
sections throughout this chapter.

CAIRNS

346km (215 miles) N of Townsville; 1,807km (1,120 miles) N of Brisbane

This part of Queensland is the only place in the world where two World Heritage–
listed sites—the Great Barrier Reef and the Wet Tropics Rainforest—lie side by
side. In parts of the far north, the rainforest touches the Reef, reaching right down
to sandy beaches from which you can snorkel the Reef. Cairns is the gateway to
these natural attractions, as well as man-made tourist destinations such as the Skyrail
Rainforest Cableway. It’s also a stepping stone to islands of the Great Barrier
Reef and the grasslands of the Gulf Savannah.

When international tourism to the Great Barrier Reef boomed a decade or two
ago, the small sugar-farming town of Cairns boomed along with it. The town now
boasts outstanding hotels, offshore island resorts, big Reef-cruise catamarans in the

QUEENSLAND BARRIER

Cairns

281


QUEENSLAND & THE GREAT BARRIER REEF

Cairns

harbor, and too many souvenir shops. The only beach right in town is a man-made
4,000-sq.-m (43,000-sq.-ft.) saltwater lagoon and artificial beach on the Esplanade,
which opened in early 2003 as part of a multimillion-dollar redevelopment of the
city and port.

The 110-million-year-old rainforest, the Daintree, where plants that are fossils
elsewhere in the world exist in living color, is just a couple of hours north of Cairns.
The Daintree is part of the Wet Tropics, a World Heritage–listed area that stretches
from north of Townsville to south of Cooktown, beyond Cairns, and houses half of
Australia’s animal and plant species.

If you are spending more than a day or two in the area, consider basing yourself

8
on the city’s pretty northern beaches, in Kuranda, or in Port Douglas (see “Port
Douglas,” later in this chapter). Although prices will be higher in the peak season
(Australian winter and early spring, July–Oct), affordable accommodations are available
year-round.

Essentials

GETTING THERE By Plane Qantas (& 13 13 13 in Australia) has direct
flights throughout the day to Cairns from Sydney and Brisbane, and at least one
flight a day from Darwin, Uluru, and Perth. From Melbourne you can sometimes fly
direct, but most flights connect through Sydney or Brisbane. QantasLink also flies
from Townsville, Hamilton Island in the Whitsundays, and Alice Springs. Virgin
Blue (& 13 67 89 in Australia) flies to Cairns direct from Townsville, Brisbane,
Sydney, Melbourne and Perth. Jetstar (& 13 15 38 in Australia) flies from Brisbane,
Sydney, Adelaide, Melbourne (Tullamarine), Perth, Darwin, and the Gold
Coast. Several international carriers serve Cairns from various Asian cities and New
Zealand.

Cairns Airport (&1800/177 748; www.cairnsairport.com.au) is 8km (5 miles)
north of downtown. A 5-minute walk along a covered walkway connects the international
terminal with the domestic terminal, which has just completed a A$200-million
redevelopment. Baggage storage at the terminal can be arranged through
Smart Carte Australia (& 0407/359 678 mobile), and costs between A$7 and
A$15 depending on the size of your bag and how long you want to leave it for. Airport
Connections (&07/4099 5950; www.tnqshuttle.com) will meet all flights
at both terminals. Transfers to the city cost A$11 adults and A$5.50 children 4 to
14, and they also run transfers to as far as Cape Tribulation, Mission Beach, and
Dunk Island. Sun Palm Australia Coach (& 07/4087 2900; www.sunpalm
transport.com) provides transfers from the airport to the city and northern beaches.
The one-way fare is A$10 adults and A$5 children 2 to 12 to the city, and A$18
adults and A$8 children to Palm Cove.

A taxi from the airport costs around A$20 to the city, A$50 to Trinity Beach, and
A$60 to Palm Cove. There is a set fee of A$168 to Port Douglas. Call Black &
White Taxis (&13 10 08 in Australia).

Avis, Budget, Europcar, Hertz, Redspot, and Thrifty all have car-rental
offices at the domestic and international terminals (see “Getting Around,” below).

BY TRAIN Long-distance trains operated by Queensland Rail’s Traveltrain
(& 13 17 22 in Queensland; www.traveltrain.com.au) run from Brisbane several
times a week. The 160kmph (100-mph) Tilt Train takes about 24 hours and costs
A$310 for business class. Northbound trains leave Brisbane at 6:25pm on Monday


Cairns


QUEENSLAND BARRIER Cairns
To Airport &
Northern Beaches
Trinity Inlet
Trinity
Bay
To Kuranda &
Skyrail Rainforest
Cableway
To Tully &
Mission Beach
Kuranda Railway Line
Cairns RailwayStation
(Cairns Central)
CityPlace
Reef Fleet
Terminal
The Pier
Marketplace
PARRAMATTA
PARK
THE ESPLANADE
Martyn St.Severin St.
Grove St.
Kerwin St.
Gatton St. Water St.Draper St.
Upward St.
Minnie St.
Mulgrave Road
Abbott St.Lake St.
Florence St.
Aplin St.
Hartley St.
Wharf
St.
Wharf
St.
Wharf
St.
Kenny St.
Scott St.
Bunda
St.
Spence St.
Shields St.Sheridan St.
Grafton St.
McLeod
St.
Bruce Highway
Captain Cook Highway
ACCOMMODATIONS
Cairns Plaza Hotel 2
Coral Tree Inn 3
Hotel Cairns 4
Novotel Oasis Resort Cairns 5
Pullman Reef Casino Hotel 9
Rydges Esplanade Resort Cairns 1
Shangri-La Hotel, The Marina 8
DINING
Ochre Restaurant 7
Perrotta's 6
7
6
1
8
2
3
5
9
4
1/4 mi0
0 1/4 km AUSTRALIA A U S
CanberraCanberra
PerthPerth
BrisbaneBrisbane
DarwinDarwin
SydneySydney
Canberra
Perth
Brisbane
Darwin
Sydney
MelbourneMelbourne
CairnsCairnsCairns
8
and Friday; southbound runs depart Cairns at 9:15am on Wednesday and Sunday.
The train features luxury business-class seating, with an entertainment system for
each seat, including multiple movie and audio channels.

The Sunlander, which runs four times a week between Brisbane and Cairns,
takes 32 hours and costs A$212 for a sitting berth, A$271 for an economy-class
sleeper, A$417 for a first-class sleeper, or A$761 for all-inclusive Queenslander class
(only available twice a week). Trains pull into the Cairns Central terminal
(& 07/4036 9250) on Bunda Street in the center of town. The station has no
showers, lockers, or currency exchange booths, but you will find 24-hour ATMs
outside the Cairns Central shopping mall, right above the terminal.

BY BUS Greyhound Australia (& 1300/473 946 in Australia, or 07/4051
5899 in Cairns; www.greyhound.com.au) buses pull into Trinity Wharf Centre, on
Wharf Street, in the center of town. Buses travel from the south via all towns and
cities on the Bruce Highway; they also run from the west, from Alice Springs and
Darwin, via Tennant Creek on the Stuart Highway, and the Outback mining town of
Mount Isa to Townsville, where they join the Bruce Highway and head north. The
48-hour Sydney–Cairns trip costs A$458; the 30-hour trip from Brisbane is A$291.

283


QUEENSLAND & THE GREAT BARRIER REEF

Cairns

BY CAR From Brisbane and all major towns in the south, you’ll enter Cairns on
the Bruce Highway. To reach the northern beaches or Port Douglas from Cairns,
take Sheridan Street in the city center, which becomes the Captain Cook Highway.

VISITOR INFORMATION Tourism Tropical North Queensland’s Cairns &
Tropical North Information Centre, 51 The Esplanade, Cairns, QLD 4870
(& 07/4051 3588; fax 07/4051 2509; www.cairnsgreatbarrierreef.org.au), has
information on Cairns and its environs, Mission Beach, Port Douglas, the Daintree
Rainforest, Cape York, and Outback Queensland. It’s open daily from 8:30am to
6:30pm and 10am to 6pm on public holidays; it’s closed December 25, New Year’s
Day, and Good Friday.

8

CITY LAYOUT The focal point of the city is the Esplanade, which has a 4,000sq.-
m (43,000-sq.-ft.) man-made saltwater swimming lagoon, with a wide sandy
beach, and surrounding parkland, with public artworks and picnic areas. Suspended
over the mud flats and providing a platform for birding, a timber boardwalk runs

Croc Alert!
Dangerous crocodiles inhabit Cairns’s
waterways. Do not swim in or stand on
the bank of any river or stream.

600m (1,968 ft.) along the waterfront
and is lit at night. A walkway links the
Esplanade to the Reef Fleet Terminal,
the departure point for Great Barrier
Reef boats.

Downtown Cairns is on a grid 5

blocks deep, bounded in the east by

the Esplanade on the water and in the

west by McLeod Street, where the train station and the Cairns Central shopping
mall are. In between are shops, offices, and restaurants.

Heading 15 minutes north from the city along the Captain Cook Highway, you

come to the northern beaches: Holloway’s Beach, Yorkey’s Knob, Trinity Beach,

Kewarra Beach, Clifton Beach, Palm Cove, and Ellis Beach.

GETTING AROUND By Bus Sunbus (&07/4057 7411) buses depart City
Place Mall at the intersection of Lake and Shields streets. Buy all tickets and passes
on board, and try to have correct change. You can hail buses anywhere it’s convenient
for the driver to stop. Bus nos. 1N, 1X, 2, and 2A travel to Trinity Beach and Palm
Cove. The N route is an express bus that runs between the city and Palm Cove on
Friday and Saturday nights only. Routes and timetables change, so check with the
driver. Most buses run from early morning until almost midnight.

BY CAR Avis (&07/4051 5911), Budget (&07/4051 9222), Europcar (&13
13 90 in Australia or 07/4034 9088), Hertz (& 07/4051 6399), and Thrifty
(& 1300/367 227 in Australia or 07/4051 8099) have offices in Cairns city and at
the airport. Redspot Car Rentals (& 07/4034 9052) has an airport office. One
long-established local outfit, Sugarland Car Rentals (&07/4052 1300), has reasonable
rates. Britz Campervan Rentals (& 1800/331 454 in Australia, or
07/4032 2611) and Maui Rentals (& 1300/363 800 in Australia) rent motor
homes. Britz and most major rental-car companies rent four-wheel-drive vehicles.

BY TAXI Call Black & White Taxis (&13 10 08).

Day Trips to the Reef

Large-scale operator Great Adventures (& 1800/079 080 in Australia, or
07/4044 9944; www.greatadventures.com.au) does daily cruises from Cairns, in fast,



air-conditioned catamarans, to a three-level pontoon on the Outer Reef. The pontoon
has a children’s swimming area, a semisubmersible, and an underwater observatory.
You get at least 3 hours on the Reef. The cost for the day is A$186 for adults,
A$93 for children 4 to 14, and A$465 for families. Hotel transfers are available from
Cairns, the northern beaches, and Port Douglas for an extra cost. The boat departs
the Great Adventures terminal at the Reef Fleet Terminal at 10:30am.

You can also depart Cairns with Great Adventures at 8:30am and spend 2 hours on
Green Island en route. This gives you time to walk nature trails, rent snorkel gear and
watersports equipment, or laze on the beach before continuing to the Outer Reef.
This cruise costs an extra A$20 per adult and A$10 per child, or A$50 per family.

Sunlover Cruises (& 1800/810 512 in Australia, or 07/4050 1333; www.
sunlover.com.au) motors large, fast catamarans to Moore Reef on the Outer Reef.
The day costs A$198 for adults, A$83 for children 4 to 14, and A$497 for families
of four, including transfers from city hotels. This trip includes a glass-bottom-boat
ride and semisubmersible viewing. You spend about 4 hours on the Reef. Introductory
dives cost A$120 for one dive or A$190 for two. Certified divers pay A$80 for
one dive or A$125 for two, including all gear. The cruise includes lunch and leaves
from the Reef Fleet Terminal in Cairns at 10am daily.

For a day cruise from Cairns, Ocean Free (&07/4052 1111; www.oceanfree.
com.au) gives you the option of a motor cruise or a sailing tour—in both cases with
limited numbers to ensure you don’t feel crowded. Ocean Freedom is a high-speed
launch which gives you 5 hours on the reef with less than 65 passengers and takes
you to two Reef sites including Upolu Cay. The day starts at 7:30am at the Reef
Fleet Terminal, returning at about 4:30pm. The cost is A$169 adults, A$90 children,
and A$466 for a family and includes pickup from your hotel, glass-bottom-boat
rides, all snorkeling gear, and lunch. You can do an introductory dive for A$105 or if
you are certified, dive for A$70. On the sailing trip aboard Ocean Free, introductory
dives at Green Island cost A$75 and certified dives A$55. The friendly crew give you
all the help you need. Ocean Free sails at 7:30am, bound for Pinnacle Reef, an
exclusive mooring on the eastern lee of Green Island. The cruise costs A$119 adults,
A$75 children, and A$349 for a family of four.

You can also take a coach transfer from Cairns or Palm Cove to join the Quicksilver
Wavepiercer (& 07/4087 2100; www.quicksilver-cruises.com), based in
Port Douglas, for a day trip to the Outer Reef (p. 302). Transfers cost A$18 per adult
or A$10 per child, A$46 for families of four.

Great Adventures, Quicksilver, and Sunlover also all offer helicopter flights over
the Reef from their pontoons—a spectacular experience! There are fly-and-cruise
trips as well.

An alternative to motoring to the Reef is to sail to it. Ocean Spirit Cruises
(& 1800/644 227 in Australia, or 07/4031 2920; www.oceanspirit.com.au) operates
two sailing cats that take no more than 150 passengers to Michaelmas Cay or
Upolu Cay, lovely white-sand cays on the Outer Reef surrounded by rich reefs. This
trip is a good value; it includes a pleasant 2-hour sail to either cay, a guided snorkeling
safari, a guided beach walk, and a glass of bubbly and live music on the way
home—in addition to the usual reef ecology talks, semisubmersible rides, lunch, and
transfers from your Cairns or northern beaches hotel. Another plus is that you spend
your out-of-water time on a beautiful beach, not on a pontoon or boat deck. You get
about 4 hours on the Reef.

8
QUEENSLAND BARRIER

Cairns

285


Cairns
8
Can’t swim? Don’t want to get your
hair wet? Don’t worry—you can still get
underwater and see the wonders of the
Reef. Several companies offer travelers
the chance to don a dive helmet and
“walk” underwater. Similar to old-style
diving helmets, which allow you to
breathe underwater, the helmet has air
pumped into it by a hose. You walk
into the water to a depth of about
4m (13 ft.), accompanied by instruc-
tors, and the Reef is right before you.
Quicksilver Cruises calls it “Ocean
Walker”; with Sunlover Cruises and at
Green Island Resort it’s called “Sea
Walker.” You must be at least 10 years
old (at Green Island Resort) or 12 years
old (with Quicksilver and Sunlover
cruises). The cost is about A$140 for
20 minutes.
Diving Made Easy Diving Made Easy
QUEENSLAND & THE GREAT BARRIER REEF

The day trip to Michaelmas Cay is A$189 for adults, A$95 for children 4 to 14,
or A$488 for families of four. At Michaelmas Cay, introductory dives cost A$100 for
one or A$160 for two; certified divers pay A$65 for one or A$110 for two, all gear
included. The day trip to Upolu Cay and Oyster Reef costs A$125 for adults including
one introductory dive. Snorkelers pay A$99 for adults, A$60 for kids, and A$258
for a family. At Upolu, a second dive costs A$45; for certified divers, the cost is A$55
for one and A$35 for the second dive. The boats depart Reef Fleet Terminal at
8:30am daily. Transfers from Cairns and the northern beaches are free, but from Port
Douglas they cost an extra A$60 per person.

What to See & Do Around Cairns

If you’re staying in Cairns, also check out activities in and around Port Douglas (see

p. 300) and Mission Beach (see p. 311). Many tour operators in Port Douglas, and
a few in Mission Beach, offer transfers from Cairns.
LEARNING ABOUT ABORIGINAL CULTURE
Tjapukai Aboriginal Cultural Park


Whether you choose the day or night
experience, the Tjapukai (pronounced Jab-oo-guy) Aboriginal Cultural Park is one of
the best chances you’ll have to discover the history and culture of the Aborigines
without going to Central Australia. However, it is a much different experience from
that which you would have in the Red Centre. From humble beginnings in 1987,
Tjapukai has become a slick, sophisticated production, which has won multiple
international awards and is worth a look.
Housed in a striking modern building that incorporates Aboriginal themes and colors,
the Tjapukai experience needs at least 2 to 3 hours. Start in the Creation Theatre,
where performers use the latest in illusion, theatrics, and technology to tell the story
of the creation of the world according to the spiritual beliefs of Tjapukai people. Actors
work with special effects and holographic images to illustrate the legends. The production
is performed in the Tjapukai language, translated through headsets.

Move on through the Magic Space museum and gallery section of the complex to
the History Theatre, where a 20-minute film relates the history of the Tjapukai
people since the arrival of white settlers 120 years ago.

Outside, there’s a cultural village where you can attempt boomerang and spear
throwing, fire-making, and didgeridoo playing, and learn about bush foods and


medicines. Shows and demonstrations are planned so visitors can move from one to
another easily, without missing anything. The complex also includes a restaurant and
coffee shop. An arts-and-crafts gallery and shop stocks the work of Aboriginal artists
and crafts workers.

Tjapukai by Night tours run daily from 7:30 to 10pm. They include interactive
time in the Magic Space museum, a Creation Show performance, and an outdoor
Serpent Circle—an interactive show featuring tap sticks for each guest to use, a
join-in corroboree (an Aboriginal nighttime dance), and a ceremony involving fire
and water. Following are a buffet dinner and dance show, and the chance to meet
the dancers. The cost is A$112 adults or A$59 children, including transfers to and
from Cairns.

Captain Cook Hwy. (beside the Skyrail terminal), Smithfield. &07/4042 9900. www.tjapukai.com.au.
Admission A$33 adults, A$17 children 5–14, A$83 families. Ask about packages that include entry to
other Cairns attractions, including Cairns Tropical Zoo, Skyrail, and/or Kuranda Scenic Rail. Daily 9am–
5pm. Closed Dec 25. Free parking. Bus: 1C or 1E. Round-trip shuttle transfers to and through the park
from Cairns hotels A$22 adults and A$12 children. Park is 15 min. north of Cairns and 15 min. south of
Palm Cove.

MORE ATTRACTIONS

In Cairns

Cairns Tropical Zoo


Get a dose of your favorite Aussie wildlife here—some
kind of talk or show takes place about every 15 or 30 minutes throughout the day,
including koala cuddling and snake handling (have your photo taken for an extra
A$15), and saltwater crocodile and lorikeet feedings. Lots of other animals are on
show, too, such as kangaroos (which you can hand-feed for A$1 a bag), emus, cassowaries,
dingoes, and native birds in a walk-through aviary. The park also runs a
nocturnal tour, during which you can see many of the more elusive creatures on show.
To take the park’s 3-hour Cairns Night Zoo tour (www.cairnsnightzoo.com), book
by 4pm on the same day (Mon–Thurs and Sat), earlier if you want transfers. The
evening starts at 7pm and includes a wildlife spotlighting walk, during which you can
pat a koala and a possum and feed kangaroos; a stargazing interlude; a barbecue dinner
with beer and wine, billy tea, and damper; and dancing to an Aussie bush band.
Captain Cook Hwy. (22km/14 miles north of the city center), Palm Cove. & 07/4055 3669. www.
cairnstropicalzoo.com. Admission A$32 adults, A$16 children 4–15 (valid for 3 days). Combination tickets
with Hartley’s Crocodile Adventures (see below) are A$58 adults, A$29 children. Cairns Night Zoo
experience A$95 adults, A$48 children 4–15 (more if you want transfers from Cairns or Port Douglas).
Daily 8:30am–4pm. Closed Dec 25. Free parking. Bus: 1B. Transfers from Cairns through Down Under
Tours (&07/4035 5566) or from Port Douglas with Wildlife Discovery Tours (&07/4099 6612).

Cairns Wildlife Dome For some visitors to Cairns, exploring the rainforest and
its wildlife doesn’t even involve leaving the hotel, thanks to the city’s newest attraction.
Here, 200 animals—including a huge saltwater crocodile named Goliath—are
housed in a 20m-high (66-ft.) glass dome on the rooftop of the Pullman Reef Hotel
Casino (see “Where to Stay,” later in this chapter). You can get up close with koalas,
lizards, kookaburras, frogs, pademelons, turtles, and snakes. There are wildlife presentations
and free guided tours throughout the day. Koala photos are A$20, or A$13
if you pay when you buy your entry ticket.

In the Hotel Sofitel Reef Casino, 35–41 Wharf St., Cairns. &07/4031 7250. www.cairnsdome.com.au.
Admission A$22 adults, A$11 children 4–14. Tickets are valid for reentry for up to 5 days. Daily 9am–6pm
(5:30pm on public holidays). Closed Dec 25.

8
QUEENSLAND BARRIER

Cairns

287


QUEENSLAND & THE GREAT BARRIER REEF

Cairns

Hartley’s Crocodile Adventures


Hartley’s is the original Australian
croc show, and quite possibly the best. What makes it different from others is the
fantastic natural setting—a 2-hectare (5-acre) lagoon surrounded by melaluca
(Paperbark) and bloodwood trees that are home to 23 estuarine crocs. The best time
to visit is for the 3pm “croc attack” show, when you can witness the saltwater crocodile
“death roll” during the 45-minute performance. At 11am you can see these
monsters get hand-fed or hear an eye-opening talk on the less aggressive freshwater
crocodiles. There are tours of the croc farm at 10am and 1:30pm; at 2pm there is a
snake show; 4:30pm is koala-feeding time. Cassowaries are fed at 9:30am and
4:15pm. There are also croc- and snake-handling opportunities. This attraction

8
makes a good stop en route to Port Douglas if you are driving yourself, though many
tours and transfer services will also get you here.

Capt. Cook Hwy. (40km/24 miles north of Cairns; 25km/16 miles south of Port Douglas). &07/4055
3576. www.crocodileadventures.com. Admission (good for 3 days) A$32 adults, A$16 children 4–15,
A$80 families of 4. Daily 8:30am–5pm. Closed Dec 25. Free parking.

Exploring the Islands

You don’t have to go all the way to the Outer Reef to see coral. Less than an hour
from the city wharf, Fitzroy Island has rainforest walks, coral accessible by dive and
snorkel boat trips from the island, and watersports. Green Island also offers snorkeling
and other activities. See “Where to Stay,” later in this section, for details about
the resorts on both islands.

GREEN ISLAND This 15-hectare (37-acre) coral cay is just 27km (17 miles)
east of Cairns. You can rent snorkel gear, windsurfers, and paddle skis; take glassbottom-
boat trips; go parasailing; take an introductory or certified dive; walk vineforest
trails; or laze on the beach. The beach is coral sand, so it’s a little rough
underfoot. Day visitors have access to one of Green Island Resort’s pools, its main
bar, the casual or upscale restaurants there, and lockers and showers. Ask the beach
staff to recommend the best snorkeling spots. If you don’t snorkel, it’s worth the
admission charge to see the display of clownfish, potato cod, and anemones at the
little underwater observatory, despite its cloudy, old viewing windows. The island has
a small attraction called Marineland Melanesia (& 07/4051 4032; www.
marinelandgreenisland.com), where you can see old nautical artifacts, primitive art,


Wildife Passes
Wildlife enthusiasts who plan to visit
several of the attractions in the Cairns
region can save a few dollars by buying
a Four Park Pass, which gives entry to
Cairns Wildlife Dome, the Rainforestation
Nature Park, the Australian Butterfly
Sanctuary, and Rainforest Habitat.
The discounted price of A$80 adults,
A$40 children or A$200 for a family of
four is a saving of A$29 per adult or
A$73 per family. The pass is valid for 6
months and doesn’t have to be used on
consecutive days, giving a lot of freedom
to visit whenever you wish. Buy it
at any of the participating parks. A
Kuranda Wildlife Experience pass
offers discounted admission to Birdworld,
the Kuranda Koala Gardens, and
the Australian Butterfly Sanctuary (see
p. 292). It can be bought on arrival at
any of the three sanctuaries for A$42
adults, half-price for children.


a turtle and reef aquarium, and live crocodiles, including Cassius, reputed to be the
largest croc in captivity in the world. Admission is A$17 adults, A$8 kids 5 to 14;
croc shows are at 10:30am and 1:45pm.

Great Adventures (& 07/4044 9944; www.greatadventures.com.au) and Big
Cat Green Island Reef Cruises (& 07/4051 0444; www.greenisland.com.au)
run to Green Island from Cairns. Both offer a range of half-day and full-day trips
with lots of options. Half-day trips with snorkel gear or a glass-bottom-boat cruise
with Great Adventures costs from A$73 adults, A$37 children 4 to 14, or A$183
family of four. Big Cat makes a half-day trip for A$73 adults, A$40 children, or
A$192 family. Both companies pick up from hotels in Cairns, the northern beaches,
and Port Douglas for an extra cost.

FITZROY ISLAND Scenic Fitzroy Island, a national rainforest 45 minutes from
Cairns, offers good diving and snorkeling. The island’s only resort closed in late 2008
and at press time had not re-opened. But you can still take a day trip to the island
for snorkeling and diving, glass-bottom-boat rides, watersports, or just to take a hike
to the lighthouse at the top of the hill or do one of the other rainforest walks. A day
trip can cost as little as the round-trip ferry fare, A$58 adults or A$32 for kids 4 to

14. Departure from Cairns is at 8:30am, returning at 4:30pm daily. Make reservations
through Raging Thunder Adventures (& 07/4030 7990; www.raging
thunder.com.au). Raging Thunder also runs daily guided sea-kayak expeditions
around Fitzroy Island. These include 3 hours of kayaking, snorkeling gear, a snack,
and stinger suits (Nov–May), and then you can stay on the island for the rest of the
day. Tours cost A$124 adults, A$90 children (including the ferry from Cairns). Kids
must be over 8 years old and accompanied by an adult.
Exploring the Wet Tropics Rainforest

The 110-million-year-old World Heritage–listed Daintree Rainforest, 2 hours north
of Cairns, gets most of the attention (see “Port Douglas,” later in this chapter), but
tracts of rainforest closer to Cairns are just as pristine. These rainforests and the
Daintree are part of the Wet Tropics, a World Heritage area that stretches from Cape
Tribulation to Townsville. This dense, lush environment has remained unchanged by
ice ages and other geological events, and the plants and animals retain primitive
characteristics. In the tract’s mangroves, eucalyptus woodlands, and tropical rainforest
are 65% of Australia’s bird species, 60% of its butterfly species, and many of its
frogs, reptiles, bats, marsupials, and orchids.

Because so much rainforest wildlife is nocturnal and often difficult to spot, consider
joining Wait-a-While Rainforest Tours (& 07/4093 8414 or 0429/083
338 mobile; www.waitawhile.com.au) on a day-into-night tour to the Atherton Tablelands,
designed to maximize your encounters with the wild things. This tour costs
A$190 adults and A$165 children, including afternoon tea, dinner at a country
restaurant, and a light supper at the end. The tour begins from Cairns at 2pm and
finishes at about 11:30pm. Pickups from Port Douglas can also be arranged.

A Side Trip to Kuranda, a Rainforest Village


Few travelers visit Cairns without making at least a day trip to the mountain village
of Kuranda, 34km (21 miles) northwest of Cairns near the Barron Gorge National
Park. Although it’s undeniably touristy, the cool mountain air and mist-wrapped
rainforest refuse to be spoiled, no matter how many tourists clutter the streets. The

8
QUEENSLAND BARRIER

Cairns

289


QUEENSLAND & THE GREAT BARRIER REEF

Cairns

shopping in Kuranda—for leather goods, Australian-wool sweaters, opals, crafts, and
more—is more unusual than in Cairns, and the handful of cafes and restaurants are
much more atmospheric. The town is easy to negotiate on foot; pick up a visitors’ guide
and map at the Skyrail gondola station or train station (see below) when you arrive.

GETTING THERE

Getting to Kuranda is part of the fun. Some people drive up the winding 25km (16mile)
mountain road, but the most popular approaches are to chuff up the mountainside
in a scenic train, or to glide silently over the rainforest canopy in the world’s
longest gondola cableway, the Skyrail Rainforest Cableway.

The most popular round-trip is one-way on the Skyrail (mornings are best for

8

photography) and the other way on the train.

BY SKYRAIL The Skyrail Rainforest Cableway


(& 07/4038 1555;
www.skyrail.com.au) is a magnificent feat of engineering and one of Australia’s top
tourism attractions. There are about 114 six-person gondolas, which leave every few
seconds from the terminal in the northern Cairns suburb of Smithfield for the 7.5km
(41.2-mile) journey. The view of the coast as you ascend is so breathtaking that even
those afraid of heights will find it worthwhile. As you rise over the foothills of the
coastal range, watch the lush green of the rainforest take over beneath you. Looking
back, you have spectacular views over Cairns and north toward Trinity Bay. On a clear
day, you can see Green Island. There are two stops during the 90-minute trip, at Red
Peak and Barron Falls. After about 10 minutes, you reach Red Peak. You are now
545m (1,788 ft.) above sea level, and massive kauri pines dominate the view. You
must change gondolas at each station, so take the time to stroll around the boardwalks
for the ground view of the rainforest. Guided walks start every 20 minutes.

You’ll continue on to Barron Falls station, built on the cleared site of an old construction
camp for workers on the first hydroelectric power station on the Barron
River in the 1930s. A rainforest information center has been established here, and
there are boardwalks to the lookouts for wonderful views of the Barron Gorge and
Falls. From Barron Falls station, the gondola travels over the thick rainforest of the
range. It’s easy to spot ferns and orchids and the brilliant blue butterflies of the
region. As you reach the end of the trip, the gondola passes over the Barron River
and across the Kuranda railway line into the station. Don’t worry if it rains on the
day you go—one of the best trips I’ve made on Skyrail was in a misty rain, which
added a new dimension to the rainforest.

A one-way ticket is A$41 for adults, half-price for children 4 to 14, or A$103 for
families of four; a round-trip ticket, including transfers from your Cairns or northern
beaches hotel, is A$78 for adults, A$39 for children, or A$195 for families; from Port
Douglas, it’s A$99 for adults, A$50 for children, or A$248 for families. The cableway
operates daily, except December 25, from 9am to 5:15pm. You must make a reservation
to travel within a 15-minute time frame. The last boardings are at 2:45pm for a
return trip, or 3:30pm for a one-way journey. The Skyrail terminal is on the Captain
Cook Highway at Kamerunga Road, Caravonica Lakes, 15km (91. miles) north of

2

Cairns’s city center.

BY SCENIC RAILWAY The 34km (21-mile) Kuranda Scenic Railway
(&07/4036 9333; www.ksr.com.au) is one of the most scenic rail journeys in the
world. The train snakes through the magnificent vistas of the Barron Gorge National
Park, past gorges and waterfalls on the 90-minute trip from Cairns to Kuranda. It


rises 328m (1,076 ft.) and goes through 15 tunnels before emerging at the pretty
Kuranda station, which is smothered in ferns. Built by hand over 5 years in the late
1880s, the railway track is today a monument to the 1,500 men who toiled to link
the two towns, and the ride on the steam train adds to the atmosphere. The train
departs Cairns Central at 8:30 and 9:30am daily (except Dec 25) and leaves
Kuranda at 2 and 3:30pm. The one-way fare is A$41 for adults, A$21 for children 4
to 14, and A$103 for families of four.

SKYRAIL/TRAIN COMBINATION TICKETS In most cases, these packages
represent convenience rather than savings. A package combining one-way travel on
the Skyrail and a trip back on the Scenic Railway is A$90 for adults, half-price for
children, or A$224 for families of four; A$101 for adults, half-price for kids, or
A$253 for families, with round-trip transfers from Cairns or the northern beaches.
Skyrail runs a shuttle bus from most Cairns hotels. A package including the Skyrail,
the Scenic Railway, and entry to the Tjapukai Aboriginal Cultural Park (see above)
is A$134 for adults, half-price for kids, and A$336 for families of four, including
transfers from Cairns and the northern beaches. An option including the Skyrail,
Scenic Railway, and Rainforestation (see below) is A$150 for adults, half-price for
kids, and A$376 for families of four, including transfers from Cairns. All packages
can upgrade to Gold Class service on the train for an extra A$45 per person. Book
packages through Skyrail, Queensland Rail, or Tjapukai.

BY BUS Trans North Bus & Coach Service (& 07/4061 7944; www.trans
northbus.com) operates a bus to Kuranda from Cairns five times a day. The fare is
A$4 one-way. A tip: Buying a return ticket will give you priority if the bus gets full
at the end of the day. Catch it at 46 Spence St., Cairns, or at the railway station, or
hail it at bus stops anywhere along Sheridan Street.

VISITOR INFORMATION The Kuranda Visitor Information Centre
(& 07/4093 9311; www.kuranda.org) is in Centenary Park, at the top end of
Coondoo Street. It is open 10am to 4pm daily, except Christmas Day.

EXPLORING KURANDA

A free shuttle bus operates between the Skyrail station and Kuranda’s main attractions,
leaving every 15 minutes between 10am and 3pm daily, but it is easy enough
to walk around everything.

Kuranda is known for its markets that sell locally made arts and crafts, fresh produce,
boomerangs, T-shirts, jewelry, and lots more. The Kuranda Original Rainforest
Markets, which started in 1978, are at 7 Therwine St., entry through the
Kuranda Market Mall (&07/4093 9440; daily 9am–3pm), and are devoted exclusively
to local artisans and craftspeople. You will find locally designed and produced
fashion, jewelry, leather work, and indigenous art, as well as local produce including
honey, coffee, fruit, sugar cane juice, coconuts, and macadamias. The 90-stall
Heritage Market (&07/4093 8060; www.kurandamarkets.com.au) is open daily
from 9:30am to 3:30pm on Rob Veivers Drive, selling a range of souvenirs, food,
produce, and crafts. The New Kuranda Markets, in an undercover complex on
Coondoo Street, houses a range of stalls and shops including an Aboriginal art gallery.
A group of about 50 local artisans sell their work in the Kuranda Arts Co-
Operative , Shop 6, 12 Rob Veivers Dr. (& 07/4093 9026; www.artskuranda.
asn.au), near the Butterfly Sanctuary. It’s open from 10am to 4pm daily. You will find

8
QUEENSLAND BARRIER

Cairns

291


QUEENSLAND & THE GREAT BARRIER REEF

Cairns

quality furniture crafted from recycled Australian hardwoods, jewelry, photography,
glasswork, handicrafts, and other items.

You can explore the rainforest, the river esplanade, or Barron Falls along a number
of easy walking trails. If you want to learn about the rainforest, explore it with Brian
Clarke of Kuranda Riverboat Tours (&07/4093 7476; www.kurandariverboat.
com), who runs informative 45-minute river cruises. The cruises depart hourly, from
10:30am to 2:30pm, from the riverside landing across the footbridge, near the train
station. Brian is a former crocodile hunter and has lived in the rainforest for more
than 30 years. The cruise costs A$15 for adults, A$7 for children 5 to 15, and A$37
for families of four. Buy your tickets on board.

8

KURANDA’S NATURE PARKS
Australian Butterfly Sanctuary



A rainbow-hued array of 1,500 tropical
butterflies—including the electric-blue Ulysses and Australia’s largest species, the
Cairns bird wing—occupies a lush walk-through enclosure here. Take the free
30-minute guided tour and learn about the butterfly’s fascinating life cycle. The butterflies
will land on you if you wear pink, red, and other bright colors, and don’t be
put off if it’s raining—this attraction is good in any weather.

8 Rob Veivers Dr. &07/4093 7575. www.australianbutterflies.com. Admission A$17 adults, A$8.50
children 4–15, A$43 families of 4. Daily 10am–4pm. Closed Dec 25. Street parking.

Birdworld Behind the markets off Rob Veivers Drive, Birdworld has eye-catching
macaws, a pair of cassowaries, and Australia’s largest collection of free-flying birds—
about 500 of them, representing 75 species from around the world. Two lakes are
home to waterbirds including stilts, herons, and Australia’s Black Swan.

Rob Veivers Dr. &07/4093 9188. www.birdworldkuranda.com. Admission A$16 adults, A$8 children
4–15, A$40 families of 4. Daily 9am–4pm. Closed Dec 25. Street parking.

Kuranda Koala Gardens You can cuddle a koala and have your photo taken at
this small wildlife park at the Heritage Markets. Or check out other animals,
including freshwater crocodiles, wombats, lizards, and wallabies, or take a stroll
through the walk-through snake enclosure while they slither at your feet—not for
the fainthearted.

Rob Veivers Dr. &07/4093 9953. www.koalagardens.com. Admission A$16 adults, A$8 children 4–15.
Daily 9am–4pm. Closed Dec 25. Street parking.

Rainforestation Nature Park At this 40-hectare (99-acre) nature and cultural
complex, you can take a 45-minute ride into the rainforest in a World War II
amphibious Army Duck. You’ll hear commentary on orchids and other rainforest
wildlife along the way. You can also see a performance by Aboriginal dancers; learn
about Aboriginal legends and throw a boomerang on the Dreamtime Walk; or have
your photo taken cuddling a koala in the wildlife park (photos extra). The Army Duck
runs on the hour, beginning at 10am; the Aboriginal dancers perform at 10:30am,
noon, and 2pm; and the 30-minute Dreamtime Walk leaves at 10, 11, and 11:30am,
and 12:30, 1:30, and 2:30pm.

Kennedy Hwy., a 5-min. drive from the center of Kuranda. &07/4085 5008. www.rainforest.com.au.
A$40 for adults, A$20 for kids 4–14, A$100 for families of 4 (or you can buy tickets to each attraction
separately). Daily 9am–4pm. Closed Dec 25. Free parking. Shuttle from the Butterfly Sanctuary, Rob
Veivers Dr., every 30 min. 10:45am–2:45pm for A$8 adults, A$4 children, A$20 families, round-trip.


White-Water Rafting & Other Thrills

RnR Rafting


(& 07/4041 9444; www.raft.com.au) and Raging Thunder
Adventures (& 07/4030 7990; www.ragingthunder.com.au) serve as one-stop
booking shops for action pursuits in and around Cairns, including hot-air ballooning,
sky diving, jet-boating, horseback riding, ATV (all-terrain vehicle) safaris, parasailing,
and rafting. Ask about multipursuit packages.
BUNGEE JUMPING Contact A. J. Hackett Bungy (& 1800/622 888 in
Australia, or 07/4057 7188; www.ajhackett.com.au). The cost is A$130 per person,
including transport to the site, which is 20 minutes north of town on McGregor Road.

FISHING Cairns is the world’s giant black marlin capital. Catches of more than
1,000 pounds hardly raise an eyebrow in this neck of the woods. The game-fishing
season is September through December, with November the busiest. Book early—
game boats are reserved months in advance. Game fishers can also battle Pacific
sailfish, dogtooth and yellowfin tuna, Spanish mackerel, wahoo, dolphin fish, barracuda,
and tiger shark. Reef anglers can expect to land coral trout, red emperor (sea
perch), and sweetlip. Mangrove jack, barramundi, and tarpon lurk in the estuaries.
Contact Fishing Cairns (&07/4041 1169; www.fishingcairns.com.au) to book a
charter. Expect to pay around A$1,980 per day for a sole charter for heavy-tackle
game fishing for two people, plus A$40 for each extra angler, A$395 per person for
light-tackle fishing, at least A$200 for reef fishing, and from A$85 for a half-day in
Cairns’s Trinity Inlet estuary.

WHITE-WATER RAFTING Several companies offer exciting white-water-rafting
trips from Cairns on the Class III to IV Tully River , 90 minutes south of Cairns
near Mission Beach; the Class III Barron River in the hills behind the city; and the
Class IV to V rapids of the inland Johnstone River. You must be 13 years or older to raft.

One-day trips on the Tully are the most popular (see “Mission Beach: The Cassowary
Coast,” later in this chapter). A trip with RnR Rafting (&07/4041 9444)
costs A$160 from Cairns or the northern beaches, including transfers.

Closer to Cairns, the gentler Barron River is a good choice for the timid. A halfday
trip with RnR Rafting costs A$98 from Cairns, including pickup and about 11.2
hours of rafting. Prices do not include a A$30 levy for national park and other fees.

Where to Stay

High season in Cairns includes 2 weeks at Easter, the period from early July to early
October, and the Christmas holiday through January. Book ahead in those periods.
In low season (Nov–Jun), many hotels offer discounts or are willing to negotiate.

Cairns has a good supply of affordable accommodations, both in the heart of the
city and along the northern beaches. You can also stay in the peaceful village of
Kuranda, or get away from it all at an island resort.

Don’t think you have to stay in Cairns city if you don’t have a car. Most tour and
cruise operators will pick you up and drop you off in Cairns, on the northern
beaches, or even in Port Douglas (see p. 300).

IN CAIRNS

Unless noted otherwise, all accommodations below are within walking distance of
shops, restaurants, cinemas, the casino, the tourist office, bus terminals, the train
station, and the departure terminals for Great Barrier Reef cruises.

8
QUEENSLAND BARRIER

Cairns

293


QUEENSLAND & THE GREAT BARRIER REEF

Cairns

Very Expensive

Pullman Reef Hotel Casino


This stylish six-story hotel is a block from the
water, with partial water views from some rooms, and city/hinterland outlooks from
others. All the rooms have lots of light, high-quality amenities, bathrobes, and small
balconies with smart timber furniture. The Reef Casino is attached to the hotel
(see “Cairns After Dark,” later in this chapter).
35–41 Wharf St., Cairns, QLD 4870. &1800/808 883 in Australia, 800/221-4542 in the U.S. and Canada,
020/8283 4500 in the U.K., 0800/44 4422 in New Zealand, or 07/4030 8888. Fax 07/4030 8777.
www.accorhotels.com. 128 units. A$300–A$450 double. Extra person A$75. AE, DC, MC, V. Free valet
and self-parking. Amenities: 4 restaurants, 3 bars; airport shuttle; babysitting; concierge; health club;
Jacuzzi; small rooftop pool; room service; sauna. In room: A/C, TV/VCR, hair dryer, Internet (A15. per

8

min.; A$28 for 24 hr.), minibar, Wi-Fi (level 2 rooms only; A$26 for 2 hr.).

Shangri-La Hotel, The Marina


This is a modern, sophisticated hotel, renovated
in 2004, with swish, spacious rooms, all with balconies either overlooking the
marina or the mountains. The exclusive Horizon Club has 36 rooms. These rooms
are contemporary in style and exceptionally spacious—more than 56 sq. m (603 sq.
ft.), with 3.3m (11-ft.) ceilings. Bathrooms have ocean views, and the rooms have
large terraces. Even the standard rooms are larger than usual, at 32.5 sq. m (350 sq.
ft.). The AAA-rated five-star hotel adjoins the Pier Shopping Centre and the new
Esplanade lagoon, and it’s not far from the Reef Fleet Terminal.
Pierpoint Rd., Cairns, QLD 4870. & 1800/222 448 in Australia, 0800/442 179 in New Zealand,
1866/344 5050 in the U.S. and Canada, 0800/028 3337 in the U.K., or 07/4031 1411. Fax 07/4031 3226.
www.shangri-la.com. 256 units. A$304–A$445 double; A$398–A$758 suite. Children 17 and under stay
free in parent’s room with existing bedding. AE, DC, MC, V. Free outdoor and covered self-parking.
Amenities: Restaurant; 2 bars; airport shuttle (on request); babysitting; concierge; executive-level
rooms; nearby golf course; health club; Jacuzzi; large outdoor pool and children’s pool; room service;
sauna; spa. In room: A/C, TV, VCR w/pay movies, hair dryer, minibar, free Wi-Fi.

Expensive

Novotel Cairns Oasis Resort


The large pool, complete with swim-up bar
and a little sandy beach, is the focus of this attractive six-story resort built in 1997
and completely refurbished and rebranded in 2008. All the contemporary-style
rooms have balconies with views over the tropical gardens, the mountains, or the
pool. The suites, with a TV in the bedroom and a large Jacuzzi bathtub, could well
be the best-value suites in town.
122 Lake St., Cairns, QLD 4870. &1300/656 565 in Australia or 07/4080 1888. Fax 07/4080 1889. www.
novotelcairnsresort.com.au. 314 units. A$169–A$199 double; A$319 suite. Extra person A$60. Children
15 and under stay free in parent’s room with existing bedding. Free crib. Ask about packages. AE, DC,
MC, V. Free valet and self-parking. Amenities: Restaurant; 2 bars; airport shuttle; babysitting; concierge;
health club; outdoor pool; room service. In room: A/C, TV w/pay movies, hair dryer, Internet (A$12 per
hr.; A$25 for 24 hr.), minibar.

Rydges Esplanade Resort Cairns Despite its lack of glitz, this 14-story hotel
has been the choice of a number of movie stars while on location in Cairns. A
20-minute waterfront walk from downtown, the hotel offers a range of accommodations,
from hotel rooms to penthouse apartments. The one- and two-bedroom apartments
look out to the sea; hotel rooms have sea or mountain views. Kitchenettes are
in studios and apartments only. The rooms are spacious, but the bathrooms are not.
Out back are cheaper studios and apartments, with upgraded furnishings; in front is
a pool and sun deck. They offer a shuttle service around the city.


The Esplanade (at Kerwin St.), Cairns, QLD 4870. &1800/079 105 in Australia, or 07/4031 2211. Fax
07/4031 2704. www.rydges.com. 342 units. A$149–A$219 double; A$159-A$199 double 1-bedroom studio;
A$189–A$284 double 2-bedroom studio or 1-bedroom tower apt; A$259–A$350 double 2-bedroom
apt. Ask about packages. AE, DC, MC, V. Free covered parking. Bus stop about 100m (328 ft.) from
the hotel. Amenities: 2 restaurants; 3 bars; airport transfers; babysitting; bikes; concierge; golf course
about 20 min. away; health club; Jacuzzi; 3 outdoor pools; room service; sauna; 2 lit tennis courts.
In room: A/C, TV w/pay movies, hair dryer, Internet (hotel rooms only; A$29 for 24 hr.).

Moderate

Cairns Plaza Hotel The harbor views at this seven-story complex are better than
those at most of the more luxurious hotels in Cairns. Two blocks from town, the
accommodations are a good size, with fresh, appealing furnishings and modern
bathrooms. Suites and studios have kitchenettes. If your balcony does not have a
water vista, you overlook a nice aspect of the city or mountains instead. Families can
book a connecting suite and standard room to create more space and privacy.

145 The Esplanade (at Minnie St.), Cairns, QLD 4870. &1800/117 787 in Australia, or 07/4051 4688.
Fax 07/4051 8129. www.cairnsplaza.com.au. 60 units. A$180 double; A$210 suite. Extra person A$25.
AE, DC, MC, V. Limited free parking. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; babysitting; golf course nearby; access
to nearby health club; Jacuzzi; small outdoor pool; room service; 4 lit tennis courts nearby. In room: A/C,
TV w/free movies, hair dryer, Internet (A$15 for 12 hr.), minibar, Wi-Fi (suites only; A$10 for 4 hr.).

The Hotel Cairns Stay at this hotel, and you get a free car to drive around in! In
an Australian first, all guests at the Hotel Cairns have free access to drive five Mercedes
Smart Cars—or one Cabriolet Smart Car for those who like the wind in their
hair. The cars are available on a first-come, first-served basis, include unlimited mileage
and a full tank of petrol. This plantation-style hotel, with its white shutters, verandas,
and lattice work screens, is very Queensland. Family owned and operated, the
hotel is set in tropical gardens and is just 5 minutes’ walk from the city center. Rooms
are modern, with bright splashes of color, marble floors, and large bathrooms, and
some have balconies. Even the Plantation Rooms, on the lower two levels, are spacious,
but for more luxury, the Tower Rooms have 33 sq. m (355 sq. ft.) of living area,
as well as a generous balcony. There are three Tower Suites, which are even bigger.

Abbott and Florence sts., Cairns, QLD 4870. &07/4051 6188. Fax 07/4031 1806. www.thehotelcairns.
com. 92 units. A$195 double; A$225 double Tower Room; A$265 double suite. Extra person A$30. Crib
A$10. Ask about packages. AE, DC, MC, V. Free covered parking. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; bikes;
exercise room; Jacuzzi; outdoor pool; room service. In room: A/C, TV w/pay movies, DVD player, CD
player, hair dryer, free Wi-Fi.

Inexpensive

Coral Tree Inn


The focal point of this airy, modern resort-style motel a 5-minute
walk from the city center is the friendly communal kitchen that overlooks the
palm-lined saltwater pool and paved sun deck. It’s a great spot to cook a steak or reef
fish filet on the free barbecue and join other guests at the big shared tables. The
smallish, basic-but-neat motel rooms have painted brick walls, terra-cotta tile or
carpeted floors, and new bathrooms with marble-look laminate countertops. In contrast,
the eight suites, which have kitchenettes, are huge and stylish enough for any
corporate traveler. They are some of the best-value accommodations in town. All
rooms have a balcony or patio; some look out onto the commercial buildings next door
but most face the pool. Ask about packages that include cruises and other tours.
166–172 Grafton St., Cairns, QLD 4870. &07/4031 3744. Fax 07/4031 3064. www.coraltreeinn.com.au.
58 units. A$125 double; A$153 suite. Extra person A$10. AE, DC, MC, V. Limited free parking; ample

8
QUEENSLAND BARRIER

Cairns

295


street parking. Amenities: Bar; airport shuttle; babysitting; bike rental; access to nearby health club;
outdoor saltwater pool. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer.

Lilybank Bed & Breakfast


This 1870s Queenslander homestead, originally
a mayor’s residence, is in a leafy suburb 6km (33.4 miles) from the airport and a
10-minute drive from the city. The large, attractive guest rooms, individually decorated
with such features as wrought-iron beds and patchwork quilts, have good-size
bathrooms. The largest room has French doors opening onto a “sleep-out” (an
enclosed veranda with two extra beds). You can also stay in the gardener’s cottage,
with slate floors, stained-glass windows, a king-size bed, and a bar. The house is set
in gardens with an attractive rock-lined saltwater pool. Breakfast is served in the
8

garden room by the fishpond. Gregarious hosts Mike and Pat Woolford share their
house with two poodles, a galah called Chook, and a giant green tree frog. There’s a
guest TV lounge and kitchen, and phone, fax, and e-mail access. Many tours pick
up at the door, and several good restaurants are a stroll away, so you don’t need a car
to stay here. A taxi from the airport costs approximately A$16. No smoking indoors.

75 Kamerunga Rd., Stratford, Cairns, QLD 4870. &07/4055 1123. Fax 07/4058 1990. www.lilybank.
com.au. 6 units, 4 with shower only. A$110–A$132 double. Extra person A$33. Rates include full breakfast.
AE, MC, V. Free parking. Bus: 1E or 1G. Bus stop 120m (394 ft.) away. Children not accepted. Amenities:
Internet (A$2.20 for 15 min.; A$5.50 for 1 hr.); outdoor pool. In room: A/C, hair dryer, no phone.

ON THE NORTHERN BEACHES

A string of white sandy beaches starts 15 minutes north of the city center. Trinity

Beach, 15 minutes from the airport, is secluded, elegant, and scenic. The most
upscale is Palm Cove, 20 minutes
from the airport. Here, rainbow-hued
shops and tasteful apartment blocks
nestle among giant Paperbarks and
palms fronting a postcard-perfect
beach. It has several advantages over
other beach suburbs: A 9-hole resort
golf course and a gym are within walking
distance, the Quicksilver Wavepiercer
Great Barrier Reef cruise boat
picks up passengers here daily, and it

has the greatest choice of places to eat. Add 5 to 10 minutes to the traveling times
above to reach the city.

Very Expensive

The Sebel Reef House & Spa


Picture yourself in a Somerset Maugham
novel—substituting the Queensland tropics for Singapore—and you’ve almost got it.
This is one of the most romantic hotels in Queensland, or all of Australia. The Reef
House’s guest list reads like an excerpt from Who’s Who. But no matter who you are,
you will not want to leave. The white walls are swathed in bougainvillea, and the beds
with mosquito netting. Airy interiors feature handmade artifacts and white wicker
furniture. The Verandah Spa rooms, which have a Jacuzzi on the balcony, overlook the
pool, waterfalls, and lush gardens. They have extra touches, such as bathrobes, as
well as balconies within earshot of the ocean. The beachfront restaurant, on a covered
wooden deck beneath towering Paperbarks, is a favorite with locals and tourists
alike for its unsurpassed ocean views, gentle breezes, and unpretentious food.

Cairns

QUEENSLAND & THE GREAT BARRIER REEF
All of the northern beaches have small,
netted enclosures for safe swimming
from October through May, when
deadly stingers (box jellyfish) render all
mainland beaches in north Queensland
off-limits.
Safe Swimming

99 Williams Esplanade, Palm Cove, Cairns, QLD 4879. &1800/079 052 in Australia, or 07/4055 3633.
Fax 07/4055 3305. www.reefhouse.com.au. 69 units, 14 with shower only. A$490–A$640 double;
A$690–A$840 suite; A$590 family room (sleeps 4). AE, DC, MC, V. Free limited covered parking; ample
street parking. Bus: 1, 1B, 1X, 2X, or N. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; airport shuttle; babysitting; concierge;
nearby golf course; access to nearby health club; 3 small heated outdoor pools; room service;
spa. In room: A/C, TV, VCR, CD player, hair dryer, Internet (A$6 for 30 min.; A$30 for 24 hr.), kitchenette,
minibar.

Expensive

Peppers Beach Club & Spa


Set behind a grove of melaluca trees across the
street from the beach, the main hotel in this resort, which opened in late 2002, has
rooms and apartments with touches of Queensland colonial style. Hotel rooms are
small but have Jacuzzis and timber outdoor furniture on the decks. Eight penthouses
(three floors up) have private rooftop terraces and pools, but there’s no elevator. A further
25 penthouses have Jacuzzis. The large lagoon-style pool has a sandy beach and
swim-up bar. Coconut palms with white-painted trunks surround the lagoon, which is
lit by flaming torches at night. The suites are secluded, with kitchens, gas barbecues,
washers and dryers, and state-of-the-art entertainment units. Pampering awaits you at
the Sanctum Spa, which has seven wet and dry treatment rooms and offers yoga
classes, as well as beauty and massage treatments, for both men and women.
123 Williams Esplanade, Palm Cove, Cairns, QLD 4879. &1800/134 444 in Australia, 800/688-7444 in
the U.S., or 07/4059 9200. Fax 07/4059 9222. www.peppers.com.au. 220 units. A$335 double; A$437
double 1-bedroom suite; A$627 2-bedroom suite; A$574–A$831 penthouse suite. Extra person A$45.
2-night minimum Sat–Sun. AE, DC, MC, V. Secure parking. Amenities: 4 restaurants; concierge; golf
course nearby; health club; 3 outdoor pools; spa; tennis court. In room: A/C, TV w/pay movies, DVD
player, CD player, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (A$6 for 30 min.).

Moderate

Ellis Beach Oceanfront Bungalows


On arguably the loveliest of the
northern beaches, about 30 minutes from Cairns, these bungalows and cabins sit
under palm trees between the Coral Sea and a backdrop of mountainous rainforest.
Lifeguards patrol the beach, and there are stinger nets in season as well as a shady
pool and toddlers’ wading pool. There’s plenty of privacy, and the accommodations
are basic but pleasant. You can sit on the veranda and gaze at the ocean. Keep an
eye out for dolphins. Each bungalow and cabin sleeps four and has full kitchen
facilities (with microwave, fridge, and freezer), but cabins have no en-suite bathrooms
(they use the communal facilities at the campground in the same complex).
The property has a laundry, coin-operated barbecues, and phone and fax facilities.

Captain Cook Hwy., Ellis Beach, QLD 4879. & 1800/637 036 in Australia, or 07/4055 3538. Fax
07/4055 3077. www.ellisbeach.com. 15 units, all with shower only. A$73–A$85 double cabin; A$130–
A$185 double bungalow. Extra person A$15 cabin, A$25 bungalow. 2-night minimum stay; 3-night
minimum June–Sept. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; golf course nearby; 2 outdoor pools. In room:
A/C, ceiling fans, TV, kitchen, no phone.

The Reef Retreat


Tucked back one row of buildings from the beach is this
little gem—a low-rise collection of contemporary studios and suites built around a
swimming pool in a grove of palms and silver Paperbarks. All the rooms have cool
tile floors and smart teak and cane furniture. The studios are a terrific value and
much larger than the average hotel room. Some suites have two rooms; others have
a Jacuzzi and a kitchenette outside on the balcony. There are also two-bedroom villas,
which sleep up to six people. There’s a barbecue and a Jacuzzi on the grounds.
8
QUEENSLAND BARRIER

Cairns

297


QUEENSLAND & THE GREAT BARRIER REEF

Cairns

There’s no elevator. Units are serviced once for every 5-day stay. Extra cleanings are
A$40 to A$58 or daily cleaning, on request, is A$25 to A$40 per day.

10–14 Harpa St., Palm Cove, Cairns, QLD 4879. &07/4059 1744. Fax 07/4059 1745. www.reefretreat.
com.au. 36 units, all with shower only. A$180 studio double; A$195 suite; A$310 2-bedroom suite or villa
for up to 4; A$285 townhouse (sleeps up to 7). Extra person A$28. Children 2 and under stay free in
parent’s room with existing bedding. Crib A$10. AE, MC, V. Free parking. Bus: 1, 1B 1X, 2X, or N. Amenities:
Nearby golf course; Jacuzzi; outdoor saltwater pool; nearby tennis courts. In room: A/C, TV, DVD,
hair dryer, kitchenette, Wi-Fi (A$3 for 1 hr.; A$10 for 8 hr.).

ISLAND RESORTS

Several island resorts are within the Great Barrier Reef Marine Park off Cairns. They

8
afford safe swimming year-round, because the infestations of deadly marine stingers
that plague this area from October through May don’t make it to the islands. They
also offer snorkeling and diving opportunities every day.

Green Island Resort


Step off the beach at this Great Barrier Reef national
park island and you are surrounded by acres of coral. The resort is a cluster of rooms
tucked away in a dense vine forest. Each room is private and roomy, with wooden
floors and a balcony looking into the forest. Windsurfing, surf-skiing, canoeing, diving
and snorkeling (both on the island and on day trips to the outer Reef), glassbottom-
boat trips, self-guided rainforest walks, parasailing, and beach volleyball are
among the activities available, or you can simply laze on the white-coral sand or by
the guests-only pool. Helicopter and seaplane flights and cruises are available. Room
rates include many activities and equipment, such as nonmotorized sports, snorkel
gear, and glass-bottom-boat trips; there’s a charge for scuba diving and other activities
using fuel. Both the resort and the island are small (you can walk around it in
45 min.), and it is a popular day-tripper destination. But after they leave at 4:30pm,
the place is blissfully peaceful.
Green Island, 27km (17 miles) east of Cairns (P.O. Box 898), Cairns, QLD 4870. &1800/673 366 in
Australia, or 07/4031 3300. Fax 07/4052 1511. www.greenislandresort.com.au. 46 units. A$550–A$650
double. Extra person A$99. Children 13 and under stay free in parent’s room using existing bedding.
Rates include launch transfers. Ask about packages. AE, DC, MC, V. Helicopter and seaplane transfers
available. Amenities: 2 restaurants; 2 bars; concierge; free Internet; 2 outdoor saltwater pools; spa.
In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar.

Lizard Island


Luxury lodges, huge potato cod so tame divers can pet
them, snorkeling off the beach, and isolation—that’s what lures the well-heeled to
this small, exclusive resort. Lizard is a rugged 1,000-hectare (2,470-acre) national
park island on the Great Barrier Reef, sparsely vegetated but stunningly beautiful,
ringed by 24 white sandy beaches, with fringing reefs that support a multitude of
marine life including giant clams. No day-trippers are allowed. Room rates include
many activities: snorkeling and glass-bottom-boat trips, catamarans, paddle-skis,
fishing tackle, tennis, and hiking trails, such as the muscle-straining 545m (halfmile)
climb to Cook’s Look, where Captain Cook spied his way out of the treacherous
reefs in 1770. You pay for fishing and diving trips to nearby Reef sites, including
Cod Hole. Introductory dive lessons and night dives are available.

The 40 elegant free-standing villas are tucked under palms along the beach or
perched on cliff tops overlooking the bay. They are built of timber and stone, in a
casual tropical style, with earth and sea tone finishes. A guest lounge has Internet
facilities, TV and video, bar facilities, and a book and games library. The Azure Spa
offers a Vichy shower, double-massage room and steam room, and a range of therapies.


The most exclusive accommodations option, the Pavilion, is a villa offering complete
privacy, sheer luxury, and spectacular panoramic views. It has private decks
leading down to its own plunge pool, and comes with extras such as a laptop, binoculars,
and Bollinger on arrival.

Lizard Island, 240km (149 miles) north of Cairns; 27km (17 miles) offshore. & 1300/233 432 in Australia,
or 03/9413 6288 (reservations office). Fax 03/9429 3992 (reservations office); 07/4043 1999
(resort). www.lizardisland.com.au. 40 units, all with shower only. A$3,400 double; A$3,996 villa double;
A$4,560 suite double; A$7,500 Pavilion double. Extra person A$1,260. Rates are for 2-night minimum
and include all meals and many activities. AE, DC, MC, V. Air transfers twice daily from Cairns take 1 hr.
and cost A$510 per person round-trip. Aircraft luggage limit 15kg (33 lb.) per person. Air-charter transfers
available. Children 11 and under not accepted. Amenities: Restaurant; health club; freshwater pool;
spa; lit tennis court. In room: A/C, CD player, hair dryer, free Internet, minibar, MP3 docking station.

Where to Dine

IN CAIRNS

For cheap eats, head to the Esplanade along the seafront; it’s lined with cafes, pizzerias,
fish-and-chips places, food courts, and ice-cream parlors.

Ochre Restaurant


GOURMET BUSH TUCKER You could accuse this restaurant/
bar of using weird and wonderful Aussie ingredients as a gimmick to pull in
crowds, but the diners who have flocked here for the past decade or so know good
food when they taste it. Daily specials are big on fresh local seafood, and the regular
menu—which changes often—lets you devour the Aussie coat of arms in several
different ways. Try salt-and-native-pepper crocodile and prawns with Vietnamese
pickles and lemon aspen sambal, chargrilled kangaroo sirloin with a quandong chili
glaze, sweet potato fritter, and bok choy, or maybe a slow-roasted emu filet. It can
be very busy, and you may have to wait for a table, but the food is very good.
43 Shields St. & 07/4051 0100. www.ochrerestaurant.com.au. Reservations recommended. Main
courses A$32–A$36. Australian game platter A$48 per person; seafood platter A$66 per person. Taste
of Australia 4-course set menu A$66 per person (minimum 2 people). AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri noon–
3pm; daily 6pm–midnight. Closed Dec 25.

Perrotta’s at the Gallery MODERN AUSTRALIAN The locals flock here for
brunch and lunch, particularly on weekends, and you can team it with a visit to the
Cairns Regional Art Gallery (the cafe is just outside). Breakfast differs from the
usual bacon and eggs or pancakes, offering delights such as smoked salmon, sweetpotato
hash browns with sour cream, and avocado. Those with a sweet tooth may go
for French toast with cinnamon, caramelized apples, and honey mascarpone. For
lunch, there’s a choice of bruschettas, focaccia, panini, and pasta dishes, or more
individual dishes such as barbecued Cajun Spanish mackerel with tomato and basil
salad. At dinner, try wild barramundi, braised duck leg, or lamb shanks. Remember
to check out the specials board.

Abbott and Shields sts. & 07/4031 5899. Reservations recommended. Breakfast A$3–A$8; lunch
A$7–A$12; main courses at dinner A$15–A$25. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 8:30am–11pm.

ON THE NORTHERN BEACHES
Colonies MODERN AUSTRALIAN It may not have the ocean frontage of the
grander restaurants along Williams Esplanade, but the veranda of this cheery little
aerie, upstairs behind a seafront building, is still within earshot of the waves. The
atmosphere is simple, and the menu includes loads of inexpensive choices, such as

8
QUEENSLAND BARRIER

Cairns

299


QUEENSLAND & THE GREAT BARRIER REEF

Port Douglas

pastas, soups, green chicken curry, and seafood. It’s licensed and BYO, and there’s
often live music as well.

Upstairs in Paradise Village shopping center, Williams Esplanade, Palm Cove. &07/4055 3058. Reservations
recommended. Main courses A$24–A$41. MC, V. Daily 5–10pm. Bus: 1, 1B, 1X, 2X, or N.

Far Horizons MODERN AUSTRALIAN You can’t quite sink your toes into the
sand, but you are just yards from the beach at this pleasant restaurant in the Angsana
Resort. The laid-back fine-dining fare includes plenty of fresh seafood—try offerings
such as red emperor with roasted fennel and tomato salad, kipfler potato, and truffle
cream dressing; or Hinchinbrook bluewater barramundi with brandade mash and
saffron beurre blanc. The restaurant sometimes sets up tables on the lawn, among

8

the palm trees beside the beach. The service is relaxed and friendly, and the crowd
is a mix of guests from this and other nearby resorts.

In the Angsana Resort, 1 Veivers Rd. (southern end of Williams Esplanade), Palm Cove. &07/4055
3000. Reservations recommended. Main courses A$25–A$30. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 6:30–11am, noon–
3pm, and 6:30–10pm. Bus: 1, 1B, 1X, 2X, or N.

Cairns After Dark

Young people and backpackers flock to Gilligan’s, 57–89 Grafton St. (&07/4041
6566; www.gilligansbackpackers.com.au), where there are three bars to choose
from. The Beer Deck has live entertainment Tuesday to Sunday, and you can watch
all the big sporting events on the biggest outdoor screen in Cairns. The 1,000-person
Beer Hall doubles as a nightclub with a dance floor, DJs, and live bands; and The
Attic is a lounge and cocktail bar. For something more sophisticated, try Ba8
(& 03/4052 7670; www.ba8.com.au), at the Shangri-La hotel on the marina. It’s
open daily from noon to midnight. The Reef Casino, 35–41 Wharf St. (&07/4030
8888), has two levels of blackjack, baccarat, reef routine, roulette, sic-bo, money
wheel, paradise pontoon, keno, and slot machines. It’s open Sunday through Thursday
9am to 3am, and from 9am Friday and Saturday until 5am the next day. It’s
closed Good Friday, Christmas Day, and until 1pm on April 25 (Anzac Day). No
entry for children under 18.

PORT DOUGLAS


Port Douglas: 67km (42 miles) N of Cairns; Mossman: 19km (12 miles) N of Port Douglas; Daintree: 49km
(30 miles) N of Port Douglas; Cape Tribulation: 34km (21 miles) N of Daintree

The fishing village of Port Douglas is where the rainforest meets the Reef. Just over
an hour’s drive from Cairns, through rainforest and along the sea, Port Douglas may
be small, but stylish shops and seriously trendy restaurants line the main street, and
beautiful Four Mile Beach is not to be missed. This is a favorite spot with celebrities
big and small—you may find yourself dining next to anyone from Bill Clinton to
Kylie Minogue, Sean Penn to rock bands or minor Aussie soap stars.

Travelers often base themselves in “Port,” as the locals call it, rather than in
Cairns, because they like the rural surroundings, the uncrowded beach, and the
absence of tacky development (so far, anyway). Don’t think you will be isolated—
many Reef and rainforest tours originate in Port Douglas, and many of the tours
discussed in the Cairns section earlier pick up from Port Douglas.


Port Douglas, Daintree & Cape Tribulation


QUEENSLAND BARRIER Port Douglas
MyallCr.
NoahCreekCooperCr.
MossmanRiverRiverBarronSnapper
Island
Low
Isles
Mossman
Gorge
Int l
Airport
Green
Island,
Fitzroy
Island,
and the
Outer Reef
Wild World
Hartley s CreekCrocodile Farm
TjapukaiAboriginalCultural Park
Four
Mile
Beach
Daintree
River Ferry
Barron
Falls
Daintree
National
Park
Daintree
National Park
Barron
Gorge
National
Park
Daintree
Mount
Molloy
Palm Cove
Clifton Beach
Kewarra Beach
Kuranda
Cairns
Trinity Beach
Cape Kimberley
Port Douglas
Smithfield
Mossman
MossmanCaptain Cook Hwy.
PeninsulaRd.
DevelopmentalDaintreeRd.
Hwy.
Daintree
Eco Lodge
& SpaMarae
Silky OaksLodge
Ellis Beach
AthertonA t h e r t o n
TablelandT a b l e l a n d
KennedyHollowaysHolloways
BeachBeach
Double IslandDouble Island
Coral
Sea
MyallCr.
NoahCreek
CooperCr.
Mossman
River
River
Trinity
Bay
Barron
Snapper
Island
Low
Isles
Agincourt
Reef
Double Island
Mossman
Gorge
Atherton
Tableland
Int'l
Airport
To
Green
Island,
Fitzroy
Island,
and the
Outer Reef
Wild World
Hartley's CreekCrocodile Farm
TjapukaiAboriginalCultural Park
Four
Mile
Beach
Daintree
River Ferry
Barron
Falls
Daintree
National
Park
Daintree
National Park
Barron
Gorge
National
Park
GreatBarrierReefMarineParkBoundary
Cape
Tribulation
Daintree
Mount
Molloy
Palm CoveEllis Beach
Clifton Beach
Kewarra Beach
Kuranda
Cairns
Trinity Beach
Cape Kimberley
Port Douglas
Smithfield
Holloways
Beach
Mossman
Mossman
CaptainCookHwy.
Peninsula
Rd.
Developmental
Daintree
Rd.
Kennedy
Hwy.
Daintree
Eco Lodge& Spa
Marae
Silky OaksLodge
10 mi0
0 10 km
Quicksilver day trips
Boat transfers
to Green
& Fitzroy Islands
Skyrail Rainforest
Cableway
Railway
AUSTRALIAA U S T R A L I AAUSTRALIA
CanberraCanberraPerthPerthDarwinDarwinSydneySydneyCanberra
Perth
Darwin
Sydney
MelbourneMelbourneMelbourne
BrisbaneBrisbaneBrisbane
Area ofArea ofdetaildetailArea of
detail
8
301


QUEENSLAND & THE GREAT BARRIER REEF

Port Douglas

Daintree National Park lies just north of Port Douglas; that is just north of Cape
Tribulation National Park, another wild tract of rainforest and hilly headlands
sweeping down to the sea. Exploring these two national parks is easy on a fourwheel-
drive day safari from Port Douglas.

Essentials

GETTING THERE Port Douglas is a scenic 65-minute drive from Cairns, in part
along a narrow winding road that skirts the coast. Take Sheridan Street north out of
the city as it becomes the Captain Cook Highway; follow the signs to Mossman and
Mareeba until you reach the Port Douglas turnoff on your right.

8 A one-way ticket with Sun Palm Australia Coach (& 07/4087 2900; www.
sunpalmtransport.com) to Port Douglas hotels from Cairns airport is A$35 adults,
A$15 children 2 to 12. If you are staying in Cairns but taking a Quicksilver
(&07/4087 2100) cruise to the Great Barrier Reef for the day, you can take a bus
transfer to Port Douglas for A$18 adults, A$10 for kids, or A$46 for a family of four.
A taxi fare from Cairns to Port Douglas is a set price of A$168; call Black &
White Taxis (&13 10 08 in Cairns).
There is no train to Port Douglas, and no scheduled air service. A small airport
handles light aircraft and helicopter charters.


VISITOR INFORMATION There is no official visitor information office in Port
Douglas. Instead, visitors should stop into a private tour information and booking
center in town. One of the biggest and most centrally located is the Port Douglas
Tourist Information Centre, 23 Macrossan St. (&07/4099 5599; www.tourism
portdouglas.com.au), open from 7:30am to 6pm daily. Another good source of information
is Tourism Port Douglas and Daintree (& 07/4099 4588; www.pddt.
com.au).

GETTING AROUND Of the major rental companies, Avis (&07/4099 4331),
Budget (&07/4099 5702), and Thrifty (&07/4069 9977) have offices in Port
Douglas. All rent regular vehicles as well as four-wheel-drives, which you need if you
plan to drive to Cape Tribulation. For a taxi, call Port Douglas Taxis (&13 10 08).

A good way to get around the town’s flat streets is by bike. Holiday Bike Hire,
46 Macrossan St. (&07/4099 6144), or Port Douglas Bike Hire, 28 Wharf St.
(&07/4099 5799), rent bikes for around A$10 for a half-day, A$15 for a full day.

Exploring the Reef & the Rainforest

DISCOVERING THE GREAT BARRIER REEF Without a doubt, the most
glamorous large vessels visiting the Outer Reef are the Quicksilver Wavepiercers
(& 07/4087 2100; www.quicksilver-cruises.com) based out of Port Douglas.
These ultrasleek, high-speed, air-conditioned 37m (121-ft.) and 46m (151-ft.) catamarans
carry 300 or 440 passengers to Agincourt Reef, a ribbon reef 39 nautical
miles (72km/45 miles) from shore on the outer edge of the Reef. After the 90-minute
trip to the Reef, you tie up at a two-story pontoon, where you spend 31.2 hours.

Quicksilver departs Marina Mirage at 10am daily except on December 25. The cost
for the day is A$197 for adults, A$99 for kids 4 to 14, or A$493 for families of four.
Guided snorkel safaris cost A$45 per adult, half-price for kids, and introductory dives
cost A$139 per person. Qualified divers take a dive-tender boat to make one dive for
A$97 or two dives for A$139 per person, all gear included. Because Quicksilver carries
so many passengers, booking snorkel safaris and dives in advance is a good idea.


The dive boat Poseidon (see “Diving the Reef,” earlier in this chapter) welcomes
snorkelers. It presents a Reef ecology talk and takes you on a guided snorkel safari.
The price of A$180 for adults, A$125 for children 4 to 14, or A$549 for a family of
four includes lunch and transfers from Port Douglas hotels.

The snorkeling specialist boat Wavelength (& 07/4099 5031; www.wave
length.com.au) does a full-day trip to the Outer Reef for A$190 for adults, A$140
for children 14 and under, and A$600 for families of four. The trip visits three different
snorkel sites each day and incorporates a guided snorkel tour and a reef presentation
by a marine biologist. It carries only 30 passengers and includes snorkel
gear, sunsuits, lunch, and transfers from your hotel. Both beginners and experienced
snorkelers will like this trip. It departs daily at 8:15am from the Wavelength jetty on
Wharf Street.

Another way to spend a pleasant day—closer to shore—on the Great Barrier Reef
is to visit the Low Isles, 15km (91.2 miles) northeast of Port Douglas. The isles are
1.5-hectare (33.4-acre) coral-cay specks of lush vegetation surrounded by white sand
and 22 hectares (54 acres) of coral—which is what makes them so appealing. The
coral is not quite as good as the outer Reef’s, but the fish life is rich, and the proximity
makes for a relaxing day.

The trip aboard the 30m (98-ft.) luxury sailing catamaran Wavedancer
(&07/4087 2100), operated by Quicksilver, is A$138 for adults, A$69 for kids 4
to 14, and A$345 for families. Once there, you can snorkel, take a glass-bottom-boat
ride or do a guided beach walk with a marine biologist. Coach transfers are available
through Quicksilver from your Port Douglas accommodations for A$6 adults, A$4
kids or A$16 for a family, or from Cairns and Palm Cove for A$18 adults, A$10
children or A$46 for a family of four.

EXPLORING DAINTREE NATIONAL PARK & CAPE TRIBULATION The
World Heritage–listed Daintree Rainforest has remained largely unchanged over the
past 110 million years. It is now home to rare plants that provide key links in the
evolution story. In the 56,000-hectare (138,320-acre) Daintree National Park,
you will find cycads, dinosaur trees, fan palms, giant strangler figs, and epiphytes
such as the basket fern, staghorn, and elkhorn. Nighttime croc-spotting tours on the
Daintree River vie for popularity with early morning cruises to see the rich bird life.
Pythons, lizards, frogs, and electric-blue Ulysses butterflies attract photographers,
and sport fishermen come here to do battle with big barramundi.

The Daintree Discovery Centre (& 07/4098 9171; www.daintree-rec.com.
au) is a multi-award-winning attraction accredited by the Wet Tropics Management
Authority. The center’s aerial walkway links the entrance to the 23m (76-ft.) high
Canopy Tower and the display center, which provides easy-to-understand information
about the surrounding rainforest. The display center has the latest touch-screen
technology, an audio-visual theater, and sweeping all-weather verandas. It is 10km
(6 miles) north of the Daintree River ferry crossing. Entry costs A$28 adults, A$14
children 5 to 17, and A$68 for a family of four. The center is open daily 8:30am to
5pm (except Christmas Day).

Just about everyone who visits Port Douglas takes a guided four-wheel-drive day
trip into the beautiful Daintree and Cape Tribulation rainforests. Although they are
two separate national parks, the forests merge into one.

You can rent a four-wheel-drive and explore on your own, but you won’t understand
much about what you are seeing unless you have a guide. Most companies

8
QUEENSLAND BARRIER

Port Douglas

303


QUEENSLAND & THE GREAT BARRIER REEF

Port Douglas

basically cover the same territory and sights; they include a 1-hour Daintree River
cruise to spot crocs, a visit to the Marrdja Botanical Walk, a stroll along an isolated
beach, lunch at a pretty spot somewhere in the forest, and a visit to Mossman Gorge.
Some tours also go to the picturesque Bloomfield Falls in Cape Tribulation National
Park. Expect to pay about A$150 per adult and about A$100 per child. Trips that
include Bloomfield Falls cost more. A company that provides an excellent, gently
adventurous alternative is Pete Baxendell’s Heritage & Interpretive Tours
(& 07/4098 7897; www.nqhit.com.au). On a daylong bushwalk into a tract of
privately owned rainforest with Pete, a naturalist and professional tour guide, you
taste green ants (be brave—it’s quite an experience) and other native “bush tucker,”


8 discover how to rustle up a toothbrush from a shrub if you forgot to pack yours, learn
about bush medicine and the wildlife around you, and clamber up a stream to a
waterfall. He takes a maximum of six people at a time. Lunch and Port Douglas
pickups are included in the price of A$140 per person. Pickups from Cairns and the
northern beaches can be organized through BTS Tours (see below) for an extra cost.
Walks run Tuesday and Saturday, leaving Port at 8:30am. On other days, the bushwalks
run for A$185 per person (minimum of two). A “Rainforest Experience” tour
costs A$200 per person for up to three people, or A$700 for a group of six.
You can also charter Pete and his four-wheel-drive for longer “go anywhere”
adventures. The cost of this is A$700 per day for a group of up to six. The charter
prices compare favorably to a regular Daintree four-wheel-drive tour—if there are
three or more of you—and you get a tailored itinerary, Pete’s knowledge, and the
vehicle all to yourself. He often takes charter customers inland to Outback gold
mining ghost towns, or north to tiny Cooktown, which boasts an excellent museum
devoted to Australia’s “discoverer,” Capt. James Cook. If you have 2 days, he can take
you farther west to see Aboriginal rock art, or to the amazing Undara Lava Tubes.
Other established operators are Trek North Safaris (&07/4033 2600; www.
treknorth.com.au) and BTS Tours (& 07/4099 5665; www.btstours.com.au). As
is the case in most tourist hot spots, some tour operators battle fiercely to pay tour
desks the highest commission to recommend their tours, even though those tours
may not necessarily be the best for your needs. Take tour desks’ recommendations
with a grain of salt, and ask other travelers for their recommendations. You may not
see too much wildlife—rainforest animals are shy, camouflaged, nocturnal, or all
three! Most four-wheel-drive tours will pick you up in Port Douglas at no charge;
there is usually a fee from Cairns and the northern beaches. Floods and swollen
creeks can quash your plans to explore the Daintree in the Wet season (Dec–Mar or
Apr), so keep your plans flexible.
If your chosen safari does not visit Mossman Gorge, 21km (13 miles) northwest
of Port Douglas near the sugar town of Mossman, try to get there under your own
steam. The gushing river tumbling over boulders and the short forest walks are
magical. (Don’t climb on the rocks or enter the river, because strong currents are
extremely dangerous and have claimed at least one life in recent years.)
Most four-wheel-drive Daintree tours include a 1-hour cruise on the Daintree
River , but if yours does not, or you want to spend more time on the river, cruises
are available on a variety of boats, ranging from open-sided “river trains” to small
fishing boats. One of the best is with Dan Irby’s Mangrove Adventures
(&07/4090 7017; www.mangroveadventures.com.au), whose small open boat can
get up side creeks the bigger boats can’t. Originally from Tonkawa, Oklahoma, Dan



has been in Australia for 36 years and is extremely knowledgeable about the wildlife
and habitat. He takes no more than 10 people at a time on 2- to 4-hour cruises. It
is very important to make advance reservations with Dan (at least 24 hr. ahead, if
possible) to determine which days he is operating, departure times, and seat availability.
Daytime tours (the first at 8am) leave from the public jetty next to the Daintree
River ferry crossing. Take the Captain Cook Highway north to Mossman, where
it becomes the Mossman Daintree Road, and follow it for 24km (15 miles) to the
signposted turnoff for the ferry on your right. The ferry is 5km (3 miles) from the
turnoff. You’ll need a car to get there, as Dan does not do transfers from hotels.
Chances are you will spot lots of fascinating wildlife and birds on his 2-hour night
cruise, but even if you don’t, it’s worth it just to see the stars! Night tours leave from
Daintree Eco Lodge, 20 Mossman Daintree Rd., 4km (21.2 miles) south of Daintree
village; you can combine an afternoon tour, followed by an hour’s break, with the
night tour. A 2-hour trip costs A$50.

Birders love the Wet Tropics rainforests, which include the Daintree and Cape
Tribulation national parks. More than half of Australia’s bird species have been
recorded within 200km (120 miles) of this area. Fine Feather Tours (&07/4094
1199; www.finefeathertours.com.au) has a full-day bird-watching safari through the
Wet Tropics to the edge of the Outback for A$235, an afternoon cruise on the Daintree
River for A$175, and other tours.

Rainforest Habitat wildlife sanctuary (& 07/4099 3235; www.rainforest
habitat.com.au) is a great place to see the animals that are too shy to be spotted in
the wild. Here, 180 animal species from the Wet Tropics are in one place for you to
see up close. You can see saltwater and freshwater crocodiles, hand-feed kangaroos,
and have your photo taken with a koala. The highlight is the walk-through aviary,
which houses more than 100 Wet Tropics bird species, including cassowaries. You’ll
get the most out of your visit if you take one of the excellent free guided tours that
run regularly throughout the day from 9:30am to 3:15pm. Rainforest Habitat is on
Port Douglas Road at the turnoff from the Captain Cook Highway. It’s open daily
(except Dec 25) from 8am to 5pm. Admission is A$30 for adults, A$15 for kids 4 to
14, or A$75 for families of four. Tickets allow entry for 3 consecutive days. Between
8 and 10:30am, the park serves “breakfast with the birds” for A$44 for adults, A$22
for kids, or A$110 families, including admission. Between noon and 2pm you can
“lunch with the lorikeets” for the same price. Allow at least 2 hours here.

DISCOVERING ABORIGINAL CULTURE Members of the native KuKu-
Yalanji tribe will teach you about bush medicines and food, Dreamtime legends, and
the sacred sites their families have called home for thousands of years. KuKu-
Yalanji Dreamtime


(& 07/4098 2595; www.yalanji.com.au) offers a guided
walk through the rainforest to see cave paintings and visit special sites. The tour is
followed by a Dreamtime story and didgeridoo performance over billy tea and
damper in a bark warun (shelter). You can buy artifacts from the information center,
gift shop, and art gallery (8:30am–5pm Mon–Sat; closed Christmas Day to New
Year’s Day, Easter, Mossman Show day—usually third Mon of July—and sometimes
for cultural reasons). Walks last 90 minutes and leave daily (except Sun) at 9 and
11am, and 1 and 3pm from the KuKu-Yalanji community, on the road to Mossman
Gorge (1km/half-mile before you reach the Gorge parking lot). Tours cost A$32 for
adults, A$19 children under 12, A$80 for families of four. Pickups from Port Douglas
can be arranged at an extra cost.
8
QUEENSLAND BARRIER

Port Douglas

305


QUEENSLAND & THE GREAT BARRIER REEF

Port Douglas

More to See & Do

Some companies in Cairns that offer outdoor activities will pick up from Port Douglas
hotels. See “White-Water Rafting & Other Thrills,” in the Cairns section earlier
in this chapter for details.

The best outdoor activity in Port Douglas, however, is to do absolutely nothing on

spectacular Four Mile Beach . From May through September, the water is

stinger-free. From October through April, swim in the stinger safety net.

Visitor greens fees at the championship Sheraton Mirage golf course on Port

Douglas Road are A$150 for 18 holes or A$95 for 9 holes, including a cart. Club

rental costs A$40 to A$60. Whacking a ball on the hotel’s aquatic driving range costs

8

A$6.50 for a bucket of 25, A$13 for 50 balls, plus A$2.15 for club rental. Contact
the pro shop (&07/4099 5537).

Wonga Beach Equestrian Centre (&07/4099 1117; www.beachhorserides.
com.au) does 3-hour horseback rides through the rainforest and along Wonga Beach,
35 minutes north of Port Douglas, for A$115 per person, plus A$10 per person for
insurance. Transfers from Port Douglas are included. Rides start at 8:30am and

High season in Port Douglas is roughly
June 1 through October 31. Low-season
holiday periods run from approximately
November to May (excluding Christmas
and New Year’s).
The Secret of the Seasons
2:30pm. Riders must be age 7 or
older. If you want a shorter ride, private
90-minute or 21.2-hour rides
(minimum two riders) can be arranged
for A$180 or A$220 per person.

Every Sunday from 7:30am to 1pm,
a colorful handicrafts and fresh food
market sets up on the lawn under the
mango trees beside Dickson Inlet, at
the end of Macrossan Street. Stalls

offer everything from foot massages to fresh coconut milk. While you’re here, take a
peek or attend a nondenominational service inside the pretty timber St. Mary’s by
the Sea church.

Where to Stay

Port Douglas Accommodation Holiday Rentals (&1800/645 566 in Australia,
or 07/4099 4488; www.portdouglasaccom.com.au) has a wide range of apartments
and homes for rent.

VERY EXPENSIVE
Sheraton Mirage Port Douglas



One of Australia’s most luxurious properties,
this low-rise Sheraton has 2 hectares (5 acres) of saltwater pools and a championship
Peter Thomson–designed 18-hole golf course. It is a bit too far from Port’s
main street by foot, but a free shuttle runs from 9am to 6pm to the golf course’s
country club and health center, to Marina Mirage shopping center, and into town.
All the rooms are large and light-filled, and the resort underwent extensive refurbishment
in 2008, with new color schemes, furniture, and artwork, and such extras as
mini–stereo systems. All rooms have minibars, PlayStations, and Internet access.
You might upgrade to a Mirage room with a Jacuzzi and king-size bed, but I thought
the standard rooms were just fine. The Sheraton also handles rentals of 101 privately
owned two-, three-, and four-bedroom luxury villas with golf course, garden, or sea
views; the decor varies, but each has a kitchenette, a Jacuzzi, and two bathrooms.


Davidson St. (off Port Douglas Rd.), Port Douglas, QLD 4877. &1800/073 535 in Australia; 800/3253535
in the U.S. and Canada; 00800/325 353535 in the U.K., Ireland, and New Zealand; or 07/4099
5888. Fax 07/4099 4424, or Starwood Hotels reservation fax 07/4099 5398. www.sheraton.com. 394
units, including 101 villas. A$619–A$830 double; A$2,500 suite; A$990–A$1,190 2-, 3-, or 4-bedroom
villa. Extra person A$69. Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room with existing bedding. Discounts
available. AE, DC, MC, V. Free valet and self-parking. Helicopter transfers available. Amenities:
3 restaurants; 2 bars; babysitting; bikes; daily day care for kids 4 and under and kids’ club for children
5–15 during school vacations (fee); concierge; 18-hole championship golf course w/country club and pro
shop, aquatic driving range (w/targets in a lake), putting green, and golf clinics; health club; Jacuzzi;
25m (82-ft.) outdoor lap pool; room service; sauna; spa; 9 lit tennis courts. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer,
Internet (A$15 for 1 hr.; A$25 for 24 hr.).

EXPENSIVE
Port Douglas Peninsula Boutique Hotel


This intimate studio apartment
hotel fronting Four Mile Beach is one of the nicest places to stay in town. Every
apartment features an open-plan living room/bedroom, a contemporary kitchenette
(with microwave and dishwasher), and a groovy bathroom boasting a giant double
tub (or Jacuzzi, in some units). Corner apartments are a little bigger. The decor is a
stylish melange of terra-cotta, mosaic tiles, granite, and wicker, with classy extra
touches such as a CD player and boxed Twining’s teas. Most units have great beach
views from the roomy balcony or patio; a few look onto a green and mauve complex
of petite Art Deco–ish pools, waterfalls, hot and cold Jacuzzis, and sun decks rising
and falling on several levels. The Peninsula Suite has a private Jacuzzi and wraparound
veranda. A 2-minute walk brings you to the main street.
9–13 The Esplanade, Port Douglas, QLD 4877. &1800/676 674 in Australia, or 07/4099 9100. Fax
07/4099 5440. www.peninsulahotel.com.au. 34 units. A$290–A$420 double; A$470 double Peninsula
Suite (3-night minimum). Rates include breakfast. Ask about packages and seasonal specials. AE, DC,
MC, V. Free covered parking. Children 16 and under not accepted. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; free airport
transfers; bikes; Jacuzzi; large outdoor pool. In room: A/C, TV, VCR, hair dryer, Internet (A$15 for
24 hr.; A$45 for whole stay), kitchenette.

MODERATE
By the Sea


You won’t find a friendlier or more convenient place to stay in Port
Douglas than these apartments, 10 seconds from the beach and less than 10 minutes’
walk from town. New owners have completely refurbished the apartments,
including new kitchens and televisions, without raising the rates. There are also
heaps of new “extras” such as bikes and laptops on loan. The apartments are on the
small side (most suit only three people), but all are well cared for. You can opt for a
tiny Garden apartment with a patio; Balcony and Seaview apartments are a bit larger
and have private balconies. Seaview apartments are quite roomy and have side views
of Four Mile Beach. Towels are changed daily and linen weekly, and rooms are serviced
every 5 days (or you can pay A$25 per day extra for daily service). There’s no
elevator and no porter, so be prepared to carry your luggage upstairs.
72 Macrossan St., Port Douglas, QLD 4877. &07/4099 5387. Fax 07/4099 4847. www.bytheseaport
douglas.com.au. 21 units, all with shower only. High season (June–Oct) A$133–A$235 double; low season
A$75–A$175 double. Additional person A$25. AE, MC, V. Free covered parking. Amenities: Bikes;
nearby golf course; access to nearby health club; Jacuzzi; outdoor heated pool; 6 nearby lit tennis
courts. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, Internet (A$5 for 1 hr. to A$25 for 20 hr.), kitchenette.

Port Douglas Retreat This well-kept two-story studio apartment complex on a
quiet street, featuring the white-battened balconies of the Queenslander architectural
style, is a good value. Even some of the ritzier places in town can’t boast its

8
QUEENSLAND BARRIER

Port Douglas

307


QUEENSLAND & THE GREAT BARRIER REEF

Port Douglas

lagoonlike saltwater pool, surrounded by dense jungle and wrapped by an ample
shady sun deck that cries out to be lounged on with a good book and a cool drink.
The apartments are not enormous, but they’re fashionably furnished with terra-cotta
tile floors, wrought-iron beds, cane seating, and colorful bedcovers. All have large
furnished balconies or patios looking into tropical gardens; some on the ground floor
open onto the common-area boardwalk, so you might want to ask for a first-floor
(second-story) unit. The town and beach are a 5-minute walk away.

31–33 Mowbray St. (at Mudlo St.), Port Douglas, QLD 4877. &07/4099 5053. Fax 07/4099 5033. www.
portdouglasretreat.com.au. 36 units, all with shower only. A$145–A$179 double. Extra person A$50. Crib
A$10 per night. Minimum 2-night stay. Ask about longer stay deals. AE, MC, V. Secure covered parking.
Amenities: Free airport transfers; outdoor saltwater pool. In room: A/C, TV w/free movies, hair dryer,

8

kitchenette, Wi-Fi.

INEXPENSIVE
Port O’Call Eco Lodge This modest lodge on a suburban street a 10-minute
walk from town has gone “green.” With 100% of its hot water provided by solar
power, Port O’Call has become the first Queensland accommodations to gain a fourgreen-
star rating for ecological sustainability from Australia’s AAA Tourism rating
system. It also operates with wind energy for public and outside lighting and water
and waste minimization programs. Backpackers, families, and travelers on a budget
seem to treat it like a second home, swapping stories as they cook a meal in the
communal kitchen and dining room. The rooms are light, cool, and fresh with tile
floors, loads of luggage and bench space, and small patios. New double and quad
rooms were added in 2004, and half the double rooms have king-size beds. The
hostel rooms have private bathrooms. There are six-share bunk rooms and backpacker
double rooms, renovated in 2008. At night, the lively poolside Port O’Call
Bistro is the place to be. Other features include free board games, a pay phone, and
a kiosk selling refreshments.

Port St. at Craven Close, Port Douglas, QLD 4877. &1800/892 800 in Australia, or 07/4099 5422. Fax
07/4099 5495. www.portocall.com.au. 28 units, all with shower only. A$109–A$139 double for budget
and deluxe motel rooms. Extra person A$20. Backpacker double rooms A$75 YHA members, or A$84
nonmembers; hostel quad rooms A$32 YHA members, or A$35 nonmembers; bunkhouse A$26 YHA
members, A$29 nonmembers. Children 2 and under stay free in parent’s room. MC, V. Free parking. Bus:
1X (stop at front door). Amenities: Restaurant (see review, p. 310); free airport transfers; bikes; 3 golf
courses nearby; access to nearby health club; outdoor pool. In room: A/C, TV, DVD player and CD player
(deluxe rooms only), hair dryer, Wi-Fi.

A LUXURY B&B IN THE COUNTRY
Marae



John and Pam Burden’s architecturally stunning timber home, on a
hillside 15km (91.2 miles) north of Port Douglas, is a glamorous and restful retreat.
The rustic-meets-sleek contemporary bedrooms have white mosquito nets and smart
linens on king-size beds, and elegant bathrooms. The garden room overlooks the
valley and the cool plunge pool. Wallabies and bandicoots (small marsupials) feed in
the garden, kingfishers and honeyeaters use the two busy birdbaths, and butterflies
are everywhere. A delicious tropical breakfast is served on the west deck in the
company of a flock of red-browed finches and peaceful doves. Afterward you can
wander the rainforest trails of Mossman Gorge, just a few minutes away.
Lot 1, Chook’s Ridge, Shannonvale (P.O. Box 133), Port Douglas, QLD 4877. &07/4098 4900. www.
marae.com.au. 2 units, 1 with shower only. A$145 single; A$195 double. 2-night minimum. Rates include
full breakfast. MC, V. Covered parking. Children 12 and under not accepted. Amenities: Nearby golf
courses. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (A$10 per stay).


RAINFOREST HIDEAWAYS
Daintree Eco Lodge & Spa


Check in and head straight for the Daintree Spa.
Here you can relax and soak up all kinds of pampering treatments, including the
2-hour, A$295 Walbul-Walbul body treatment, in which you are wrapped in mud as
you recline on a magnificent carved timber “wet bed,” and the Wawa Jirakul waterfall
treatment. It’s bliss.
A multiple award winner for “green tourism,” this lodge in the primeval forest
books only a small number of guests. Don’t think “eco” means sacrificing creature
comforts: The large rooms boast marble floors, timber and bamboo furniture, and
tiled bathrooms with robes. Five have Jacuzzis on their screened balconies.

You can join a yoga, meditation, or Pilates session, laze by the small solarheated
pool, walk rainforest trails, or join members of the local Aboriginal KuKu-
Yalanji tribe on a bush tucker and native medicine stroll. The Julaymba
Restaurant overlooks a lily pond and serves food with a gourmet bush-tucker
slant. The lodge is 98km (61 miles) north of Cairns and 40km (25 miles) north
of Port Douglas.

20 Daintree Rd. (4km/21. miles south of Daintree village), Daintree, QLD 4873. &1800/808 010 in

2Australia, or 07/4098 6100. Fax 07/4098 6200. www.daintree-ecolodge.com.au. 15 units, 10 with shower
only. A$550–A$598 double. Extra adult A$90, children A$60. Ask about packages. AE, DC, MC, V. Take
Captain Cook Hwy. north to Mossman, where it becomes the Mossman-Daintree Rd.; follow to lodge.
The road is paved all the way. No children 6 and under. Amenities: Restaurant; pool; spa. In room: A/C,
TV w/free movies, CD player, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi.

Silky Oaks Lodge & Healing Waters Spa


Relax in the hammock on your
veranda and listen to the waters of the Mossman River gushing through the rainforest.
Stroll down for a swim—no crocs here. Despite its popularity, this luxury resort
tucked away at the edge of cane fields exudes a restful feeling. There are Treehouses
scattered through the rainforest and gardens; the five Riverhouses overlook the river
frontage, and all have Jacuzzis. Each unit has timber floors, attractive furnishings, a
king-size bed, bathrobes, a CD player—but no TV—and a double hammock. Rates
include guided nature walks, tennis, mountain bikes, and kayaking or snorkeling in
the Mossman River, and there is a daily activities program. For a spot of pampering,
head to Healing Waters Spa. To reach Mossman Gorge’s lovely walking trails, across
the river, you’ll need a car.
Finlayvale Rd., Mossman, 7km (41.2 miles) west of Mossman township; 27km (17 miles) from Port Douglas.
& 07/4098 1666. Fax 07/4098 1983. www.silkyoakslodge.com.au. 50 units. A$598–A$798 double.
Extra person A$62. Rates include full breakfast, some activities, and a morning and afternoon shuttle
from Port Douglas. Ask about packages. AE, DC, MC, V. Take Captain Cook Hwy. to Mossman, where it
becomes the Mossman-Daintree Rd.; follow approximately 3.5km (21. miles) past Mossman and turn

4left onto Finlayvale Rd. at the small white-on-blue SILKY OAKS sign. Children 14 and under not accepted.
Amenities: Restaurant; bar; exercise room; free Internet; outdoor pool; spa; lit tennis court. In room:
A/C, ceiling fans, CD player, hair dryer, minibar.

Thala Beach Lodge


“Where are the walls?” may be your first question on
arriving at this Balinese-style luxury hideaway in the rainforest outside Port Douglas.
The reception area and lobby are open, to stunning effect. From the elevated restaurant,
the impact is even greater, with sweeping views from the Daintree to Cape
Grafton, south of Cairns. Thala (pronounced Ta-la) Beach is on a 59-hectare (146acre)
private peninsula, bordered on three sides by private beaches and coves. Owners
Rob and Oonagh Prettejohn opened the lodge in 1998, taking their inspiration
8
QUEENSLAND BARRIER

Port Douglas

309


QUEENSLAND & THE GREAT BARRIER REEF

Port Douglas

from the flora and fauna of the World Heritage area that surrounds it. The
secluded bungalows are spacious and comfortable, with timber-paneled walls and
your choice of king-size or twin beds. All are built on high poles in the trees, where
dazzling lorikeets and small red-faced flying foxes feed on blossoms and hang
contentedly from the branches. The 16 Coral Sea bungalows overlook the ocean;
the rest have forest and mountain views. Some of the bungalows are a bit of a hike
from the public areas, but it’s a small price to pay for the privacy and the rainforest
setting.

Private Rd., Oak Beach, 16km (10 miles) south of Port Douglas. &07/4098 5700. Fax 07/4098 5837.
www.thalabeach.com.au. 85 units. A$249–A$698 double. AE, DC, MC, V. Free valet parking. Amenities:
2 restaurants; 2 bars; free airport transfers with some packages, A$26 for room-only rates; nearby golf

8

course; 2 outdoor pools; room service; Wi-Fi (free). In room: A/C, ceiling fans, TV, DVD player, CD player,
hair dryer, minibar.

Where to Dine

Nautilus


TROPICAL/SEAFOOD This restaurant has a fascinating history
spanning more than 55 years and is a Port Douglas institution. But word from the
locals is that service can be patchy, and that this is one restaurant that needs to
sharpen its game against increasing competition down the street. The setting, however,
makes up for some of the criticism: Tables are set under towering palm trees
and the open sky, with a clever seating plan and unusual high-backed chairs that
create a wonderfully intimate atmosphere. Local produce and seafood are the mainstays
of the menu, and the signature dish is a whole coral trout dusted in spices and
crisp-fried, with a palm sugar dressing and pickled green papaya salad. For true
indulgence, order the six-course degustation menu for your table, at A$110 per
person, with five matched wines for an extra A$50.
17 Murphy St. (entry also from Macrossan St.), Port Douglas. & 07/4099 5330. www.nautilusrestaurant.
com.au. Reservations recommended. Main courses A$34–A$52. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 5:30–
10:30pm or until the last diners leave. Children 7 and under not accepted.

Port O’Call Bistro


CAFE/BISTRO Locals patronize this poolside bistro and
bar at the Port O’Call Lodge (p. 308) almost as often as guests do, because it offers
good, honest food, such as lamb shanks and steaks, in hearty portions at painless
prices. The atmosphere is fun and friendly. There are pasta and curry dishes, and
every night you can try one of the chef’s blackboard surprises, including local seafood.
There are kids’ meals for A$8, as well as burgers, chicken, and Asian stir-fries
to appeal to everyone.
In the Port O’Call Lodge, Port St. at Craven Close. &07/4099 5422. Main courses A$15–A$25. MC, V.
Daily 6pm–midnight.

Salsa Bar & Grill


MODERN/TROPICAL This trendy restaurant, in a
timber Queenslander with wraparound verandas, has terrific food, great prices, and
lively, fun service. Here you can choose simple fare such as gnocchi or Caesar salad,
or such mouthwatering delights as a jambalaya with tiger prawns, squid, yabbie,
smoked chicken, and crocodile sausages; or a rare seared yellowfin tuna steak with
a kipfler potato and fennel salad; or macadamia and herb-crusted wild barramundi.

26 Wharf St. (at Warner St.). &07/4099 4922. www.salsaportdouglas.com.au. Reservations essential.
Main courses A$16–A$34. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 10am–midnight; Sun 8am–midnight.


THE NORTH COAST


For years, the village of Mission Beach was a well-kept secret. Farmers retired
here; then those who liked to chill out discovered it; today, it’s a small, prosperous
(and growing) rainforest town that hasn’t lost its simple charm. The beach is one of
the most beautiful in Australia, a long white strip fringed with dense tangled vine
forests, the only surviving lowlands rainforest in the Australian tropics. It is also one
of the least crowded and least spoiled, so clever has Mission Beach been at staying
out of sight, out of mind, and off the tourist trail.

The nearby Tully River is white-water-rafting heaven for thrill-seekers. You can
also bungee jump and tandem sky dive when you’re not rushing down the rapids,
flanked by lush rainforest.

From Mission Beach, it’s a short ferry ride to Dunk Island, a large resort island
that welcomes day-trippers. You can even sea kayak here from the mainland. Mission
Beach is closer to the Great Barrier Reef than any other point along the coast—just
an hour—and cruise boats depart daily from the jetty, stopping en route at Dunk
Island.

A few hours’ drive south brings you to the city of Townsville, a gateway to the
Great Barrier Reef and to Magnetic Island, a picturesque, laid-back haven for hikers
and watersports enthusiasts.

Mission Beach: The Cassowary Coast

140km (87 miles) S of Cairns; 240km (149 miles) N of Townsville

Tucked away off the Bruce Highway, the township of Mission Beach has managed
to duck the tourist hordes. It’s actually a conglomeration of four beachfront towns:
South Mission Beach, Wongaling Beach, Mission Beach proper, and Bingil Bay.
Most commercial activity centers on the small nucleus of shops and businesses at
Mission Beach proper, but there are

8
QUEENSLAND BARRIER

The North

There’s no bank in Mission Beach and
only two ATMs. Many small shops and
cafes don’t accept credit cards, so make
sure that you take enough cash and
traveler’s checks to cover your expenses
while you are there—just in case!
Mission Beach Money
Matters
bigger shopping center developments
springing up. One of the great attractions—
apart from the beach—is the
chance you might spot a cassowary
emerging from the rainforest to cross
the road. Signs on the way into town
warn you to watch out for them. Rainforest
hides the town from view until
you round the corner to Mission
Beach proper and discover appealing

hotels and cabins, small shops, and
smart little restaurants. Just through the trees is the fabulous beach. A mile or so
north of the main settlement is Clump Point Jetty.

ESSENTIALS
GETTING THERE From Cairns, follow the Bruce Highway south. The Mission
Beach turnoff is at the tiny town of El Arish, about 15km (91.2 miles) north of Tully.
Mission Beach is 25km (16 miles) off the highway. It’s a 90-minute trip from Cairns.
If you’re coming from Townsville, a turnoff just north of Tully leads 18km (11 miles)
to South Mission Beach.


311


QUEENSLAND & THE GREAT BARRIER REEF

The North Coast

Mission Beach Connections (& 07/4059 2709) provides door-to-door
shuttles three times a day from Cairns and Cairns Airport for A$47 adults and A$24
kids.

Greyhound Australia (&1300/473 946 in Australia) coaches stop at Wongaling
Beach several times daily on Cairns-Brisbane-Cairns runs. The fare is A$34 from
Cairns, A$280 for the 27-hour-plus trip from Brisbane.

Six trains a week on the Cairns-Brisbane-Cairns route serve the nearest station,
Tully, about 20km (13 miles) away. One-way travel from Cairns on the Tilt Train
costs A$47 for the 2-hour, 50-minute journey. From Brisbane, fares range from
A$206 in an economy seat to A$408 for a first-class sleeper on the Sunlander, or

8
A$748 for Queenslander Class. For more information, call Queensland Rail’s longdistance
division, Traveltrain (& 1800/872 467 in Australia, or 07/3235 1122;
www.traveltrain.com.au). A taxi from Tully to Mission Beach with Supreme Taxis
(& 07/4068 1427) is about A$55. The Beach Bus (see below) also travels
between Tully and Mission Beach for A$10 one-way or A$18 round-trip.

VISITOR INFORMATION The Mission Beach Visitor Information Centre,
Porters Promenade, Mission Beach, QLD 4852 (& 07/4068 7099; www.mission
beachtourism.com), is at the northern end of town. It’s open Monday to Saturday
from 9am to 4:45pm and Sunday 10am to 4pm. Closed December 25 and 26.

GETTING AROUND The Beach Bus (& 07/4068 7400) provides a regular
link between the beach communities from Bingal Bay to South Mission Beach. Just
flag the bus down outside your accommodations or wherever you see it. The bus
runs every day from 9am to 6pm. Fares are A$3 to A$8 for adults, depending where
you want to go, or you can buy an A$8 all-day pass or a 3-day pass for A$14. Kids
under 12 pay A$2 to travel anywhere. To hire a car, go to Sugarland Car Rentals
(&07/4068 8272). For Mission Beach taxi service, call &0429/689366.

WHAT TO SEE & DO
EXPLORING THE REEF Mission Beach is the closest point on the mainland to
the Reef, just 1 hour by the high-speed Quick Cat Cruises catamaran (&07/4068
7289; www.quickcatcruises.com.au). The trip starts with an hour at Dunk Island,
20 minutes offshore, where you can walk rainforest trails, play on the beach, or
parasail or jet-ski for an extra fee. Then it’s a 1-hour trip to Beaver Cay on the Outer
Reef, where you have 3 hours to snorkel or to check out the coral from a glass-bottom
boat. There’s no shade on the cay, so bring a hat and sunscreen. The trip departs
daily from Clump Point Jetty at 9:30am. It costs A$138 for adults, half-price for
children 4 to 14. An introductory scuba dive costs A$90 for the first dive and halfprice
for the second. You should prebook your introductory scuba dive to ensure a
place. Qualified divers pay A$60 for the first dive, A$45 for the second, all gear
included. Free pickups from Mission Beach are included. You can also join this trip
from Cairns; coach connections from your Cairns or northern beaches hotel will
cost extra.

WHITE-WATER RAFTING ON THE TULLY A day’s rafting through the rainforest
on the Class III to IV Tully River is an adventure you won’t soon forget. In
raft-speak, Class IV means “exciting rafting on moderate rapids with a continuous
need to maneuver rafts.” On the Tully, that translates to regular hair-raising but
manageable rapids punctuated by calming stretches that let you float downstream.


The North Coast


QUEENSLAND BARRIER The North SS YongalaSS YongalaWreckWreckFlinnddeerrssHHwwyy..
BruceHwy.
CardwellRangeClarkRangeQUEENSLANDQ U E E N S L A N D
Dunk I.Dunk I.
Goold I.Goold I.
Pelorus I.Pelorus I.
Great Palm I.Great Palm I.
Magnetic I.Magnetic I.
FantomeFantomeI.I.
Herald I.Herald I.
Hinchinbrook I.Hinchinbrook I.
Fitzroy I.Fitzroy I.
Sudbury ReefSudbury Reef
HowieHowieReefReef
OtterOtter
ReefReef
Myrmidon ReefMyrmidon Reef
Wheeler ReefWheeler Reef
KeeperKeeperReefReef
CoralCoral
SeaSea
Halifax BayHalifax BayTownsvilleTownsvilleThuringowaThuringowaWoodstockWoodstockMingelaMingelaDalbegDalbegGiruGiruAyrAyr
InghamInghamCardwellCardwellTullyTullyInnisfailInnisfailMt. GarnetMt. Garnet
CairnsCairns
MossmanMossmanPort DouglasPort Douglas
TrinityTrinity
BeachBeachHolloways BeachHolloways BeachKurandaKurandaMareebaMareebaDimbulahDimbulahAeroglenAeroglenGordonvaleGordonvaleBabindaBabinda
EdmontonEdmontonAthertonAthertonMourilyanMourilyanEuramoEuramoRavenshoeRavenshoeMillaaMillaaMillaaMillaaLucindaLucindaHerbertonerbertonHalifaHalifaSilkwoodSilkwoodEl ArishEl ArishBambarooBambarooRollingstoneRollingstonePallarendaPallarendaRavenswoodRavenswoodPentlandPentland
ChartersChartersTowersTowersBalfes CreekBalfes CreekHomesteadHomesteadMacrossanMacrossanCollinsvilleCollinsvilleGumluGumluClareClareHome HillHome HillGreenvaleGreenvaleBowling Green BayBowling Green BayNational ParkNational ParkPaluma RangePaluma Range
Nat'l ParkNat'l ParkHinchinbrook I.Hinchinbrook I.
Nat'l ParkNat'l ParkFamily IslandsFamily IslandsNat'l ParkNat'l ParkCape UpstartCape Upstart
Nat'l ParkNat'l ParkDaintreeDaintreeNat'l ParkNat'l ParkLumholtzLumholtzNat'l ParkNat'l ParkSS YongalaWreck
FlindersHwy.
Bruce Hwy.
CardwellRange
ClarkRange
QUEENSLAND
Dunk I.
Goold I.
Pelorus I.
Great Palm I.
Magnetic I.
Fantome
I.
Herald I.
Hinchinbrook I.
Fitzroy I.
Sudbury Reef
Howie
Reef
Otter
Reef
Myrmidon Reef
Wheeler Reef
Keeper
Reef
Coral
Sea
Halifax Bay
Townsville
Thuringowa
Woodstock
Mingela
Dalbeg
Giru
Ayr
Ingham
Cardwell
Tully
Innisfail
Mt. Garnet
Cairns
Mossman Port Douglas
Trinity
Beach
Holloways BeachKuranda
Mareeba
Dimbulah
Aeroglen
Gordonvale
Babinda
Edmonton
Atherton
Mourilyan
Euramo
Ravenshoe
Millaa
Millaa
Lucinda
Herberton
Halifa
Silkwood
El Arish
Bambaroo
Rollingstone
Pallarenda
Ravenswood
Pentland
Charters
TowersBalfes Creek
Homestead
Macrossan
Collinsville
GumluClare
Home Hill
Greenvale
Bowling Green Bay
National Park
Paluma Range
Nat'l Park
Hinchinbrook I.
Nat'l Park
Family Islands
Nat'l Park
Cape Upstart
Nat'l Park
Daintree
Nat'l Park
Lumholtz
Nat'l Park
1
62
1
1
78
78
AUSTRALIAA U S T R A L I AAUSTRALIA
CanberraCanberraPerthPerthDarwinDarwinSydneySydneyCanberra
Perth
Darwin
Sydney
MelbourneMelbourneMelbourne
BrisbaneBrisbaneBrisbane
Area ofArea ofdetaildetailArea of
detail TownsvilleTownsvilleTownsville
50 mi0
0 50 km
8
313


QUEENSLAND & THE GREAT BARRIER REEF

The North Coast


The Mamu Rainforest Canopy Walk
High in the canopy of the rainforest in
Wooronooran National Park, the Mamu
Rainforest Canopy Walkway
(&07/4064 5294; www.derm.qld.gov.
au/parks/mamu) traces the path of a
cyclone. Cyclone Larry tore through the
region in March 2006, opening the canopy
in several places; the route of the
walkway, which opened in late 2008,
was planned to take advantage of
those natural openings to reduce the
need for clearing parts of the forest.
The walkway, 15m (50 ft.) off the
ground, runs for 350m (1,150 ft.)
through the lush forest, with spectacular
views of the North Johnstone river
gorge and the mountain peaks of the
Wet Tropics World Heritage area. If you
are like me, it will surprise and delight
you. Along the way—both at ground
level and higher—there are signs
explaining the area’s history and alerting
you to the plants, insects, and birds
to look out for. The best views are from
a 10m (33 ft.) cantilever and a
37m-high (121-ft.) tower with two viewing
decks. The whole walk is about
2.5km (11.2 miles) and takes about an
hour at an easy pace. To find it, take
the Palmerston Highway about 116km
(72 miles) south from Cairns, or from
Mission Beach, travel north about 25km
(151.2 miles) to Innisfail, turn northwest,
and continue about 30km (19 miles).
The walkway is open daily 9:30am to
5:30pm (last entry at 4:30pm) and
closed Christmas Day. Admission is
A$20 adults, A$10 children 4 to 14, or
A$50 for a family of four.

You don’t need experience, just a decent level of agility and an enthusiastic attitude.
RnR Rafting (& 07/4041 9444) runs a daily trip that includes 5 hours on the
river with fun, expert guides, a barbecue lunch in the rainforest, and a DVD screening
of your adventure. With transfers, the day costs A$150 from Mission Beach;
A$160 from Cairns and the northern beaches, plus A$30 for national park and other
fees. You must be age 13 or over.

EXPLORING THE RAINFOREST & COAST Walking, wildlife spotting,
canoeing in the forest, and kayaking along the pristine coast are all worth doing. Hiking
trails abound through national parks, in rainforests, through fan palm groves, and
along the beach. The 8km (5-mile) Licuala Fan Palm track starts at the parking lot
on the Mission Beach–Tully Road about 1.5km (1 mile) west of the turnoff to South
Mission Beach. The track leads through dense forest and over creeks and comes out
on the El Arish–Mission Beach Road about 7km (41.2 miles) north of the post office.
When you come out, you can cross the road and keep going on the 1km (less than a
mile) Lacey Creek loop in the Tam O’Shanter State Forest. A shorter Rainforest
Circuit leads from the parking lot at the start of the Licuala Fan Palm track and
makes a 1km (less than a mile) loop incorporating a fan palm boardwalk. There’s also
a 10-minute “follow the cassowary footprints to the nest” children’s walk.

If you would rather see the sea, take the 7km (41.2-mile) Edmund Kennedy track,
which starts below the Horizon resort at the southern end of the Kennedy Esplanade
in South Mission Beach. You get views of the ocean and the rainforest on this trail.
The Mission Beach Visitor Centre has free trail maps.

Coral Sea Kayaking (& 07/4068 9154, or 0419/782 453 mobile; www.coral
seakayaking.com) offers a range of sea-kayaking expeditions that interpret the rich


environment around you. Groups are usually between five and eight people, so you
get personal attention and time to ask questions. The half-day sea-kayak trip (A$77
per person) follows the coast near South Mission Beach. Between mid-May and
early November, owners David Tofler and Atalanta Willy also run a 3-day sea kayak
camping trip to the nearby Family Islands. This costs A$570 including pickup from
your accommodations, all meals, and equipment, including snorkeling gear.
Extended 5- and 7-day paddles are also available.

HITTING THE BEACH Relaxing on the uncrowded beach is why everyone
comes to Mission Beach. From June through September, you can swim anywhere,
and the water is warm; October through May, stick to areas with stinger nets at Mission
Beach proper (behind Castaways resort) and South Mission Beach.

A DAY TRIP TO DUNK ISLAND If you’re a beachcomber at heart, Dunk will
fulfill your dreams. Just 5km (3 miles) offshore from Mission Beach, Dunk was the
inspiration for writer E. J. Banfield’s book Confessions of a Beachcomber. The nervous
Banfield moved to Dunk at the turn of the 20th century to live out what he thought
would be a short life. He lived another 23 years, which must say something about
the restorative powers of a piece of paradise. Ed and Bertha Banfield’s graves are
alongside the track to Mount Kootaloo.

Thick bushland and rainforest cover much of the island’s 12 sq. km (43.4 sq.
miles), most of which is a national park. The island is renowned for its myriad birds
and electric-blue Ulysses butterflies.

You can stay at the upscale Dunk Island resort (see below) or pop over for the day
to snorkel, hike in the forest, or do all sorts of watersports. Quick Cat Cruises
(&07/4068 7289) runs transfers for A$56 adults round-trip, half-price for kids 4
to 14, free for kids under 4. Daily departures are from Clump Point Jetty at 8:30 and
10am, and 2pm, returning at 1:30, 3:30, and 4:30pm. You can also get to Dunk by
water taxi (&07/4068 8310), which runs six times a day from Wongaling Beach,
takes 10 minutes, and costs A$35 adults round-trip, half-price for children. Ask at
your hotel about transfers between Clump Point and South Mission Beach.

Once on Dunk, you pay as you go for activities and equipment rental. Everything
from water-skiing to catamaran sailing is available, and Dunk has lovely beaches and
half a dozen rainforest walking trails, ranging in duration from 15 minutes to 4 hours.

Coral Sea Kayaking (& 07/4068 9154, or 0419/782 453 mobile; www.coral
seakayaking.com) runs full-day guided paddles to Dunk Island. It takes about 90

8
QUEENSLAND BARRIER

The North

The endangered cassowary (a spectacu-
lar ostrichlike bird with a blue bony
crown on its head) can kill with its
enormous claws, so never approach
one. If you disturb one, back off slowly
and hide behind a tree.
Dangerous crocodiles inhabit the local
waterways. Do not swim in, or stand on,
the bank of any river or stream.
You will spend plenty of time lazing
and strolling the area’s 14km (83.4 miles)
of beaches, but be careful about where
you swim. Deadly marine stingers
inhabit the sea from October through
May; during these months, swim only in
the stinger nets erected at Mission
Beach and South Mission Beach.
Wildlife Safety Tips
315


QUEENSLAND & THE GREAT BARRIER REEF

The North Coast

minutes to reach the small islands near Dunk and you may see dolphins and turtles.
There’s a stop at a nearby island for a midmorning snack; and while on Dunk Island,
you can walk in the rainforest and swim or snorkel in a secluded bay. The trip costs
A$136 per person, including park fees, lunch, and snacks. You must be over 13.

WHERE TO STAY

In Mission Beach

The Elandra


The downside of sleeping in at this comfortable resort is that you
may miss a regular visitor at breakfast time—a male cassowary, sometimes with his
chicks, who frequents the gardens here to the delight of guests who get up early. On
the hill behind South Mission Beach, with beguiling views and a rainforest setting,
8

this intimate resort was revamped in 2008 and now styles itself as “safari meets the
sea.” This simply means that it now has a semi-African theme with furniture, fabrics,
and carvings to give it an exotic air. Guest rooms are painted white and all have
balconies and bean bag chairs. The pavilion-style cabanas around the pool are inviting,
with their day beds and views of the Coral Sea. It’s a bit of a hike to the Mission
Beach shops and restaurants so a good choice only if you have a car, or don’t care
about going outside the resort too much.

Explorer Drive, South Mission Beach, QLD 4852. &1800/079 090 in Australia, or 07/4068 8154. Fax
07/4068 8596. www.elandraresorts.com. 55 units, all with shower only. A$220–A$270 double; A$320–
A$370 double Queen Suite; A$470–A$520 double King Suite. Ask about packages. AE, DC, MC, V. Free
outdoor parking. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; bikes; outdoor saltwater pool; room service; lit tennis
court; free Wi-Fi. In room: A/C, TV w/free in-house movies, hair dryer, minibar.

Mackays


This delightfully well-kept motel is one of the best deals in town. It’s
just 80m (262 ft.) from the beach and 400m (a quarter mile) from the heart of Mission
Beach. The friendly Mackay family repaints the rooms annually, so the place
always looks brand new. All the rooms are pleasant and spacious, with white-tiled
floors, cane sofas, queen-size beds with colorful bedcovers, and very clean bathrooms.
Some have views of the attractive granite-lined pool and gardens. Rooms in
the older painted-brick wing have garden views from a communal patio. Ask about
special packages; they can offer extremely good deals on such extras as rafting on the
Tully River and day trips to Dunk Island.
7 Porter Promenade, Mission Beach, QLD 4852. &07/4068 7212. Fax 07/4068 7095. www.mackays
missionbeach.com.au 18 units, 10 with shower only. A$105–A$135 double. Extra person A$20. Crib A$10.
Ask about packages. AE, DC, MC, V. Free covered parking. Amenities: Babysitting; outdoor pool; room
service; access to nearby tennis courts. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer (deluxe rooms only).

On Dunk Island

Dunk Island


Aboriginal People called Dunk Island “Coonanglebah,” or “the
island of peace and plenty,” and you may well agree. Families love Dunk Island
because there’s so much to do, but it’s just as appealing for honeymooners or retired
couples. For those who are more inclined to relaxation, Dunk has beautiful beaches
and relaxing pastimes, such as sunset cruises. Just 5km (3 miles) offshore from Mission
Beach, Dunk is a rainforested 12-sq.-km (71.2-sq.-mile) island that attracts
everyone. It’s renowned for bird life and neon-blue Ulysses butterflies, which you
will see everywhere.

Among the free activities are catamaran sailing, paddle skiing, pedal boats, tennis

and squash courts, fitness classes, badminton, bocce, and croquet. You pay for a

range of other activities, including guided jet-ski tours, waterskiing, tube rides,


tandem sky diving, sunset wine-and-cheese cruises, horse riding, and a round on the
9-hole golf course. There are also loads of activities for children, and a kids’ club.

All three kinds of low-rise (two-story) accommodations have been refurbished and
restyled. The top-of-the-range units are the bright, spacious Beachfront Suites,
which have virtually uninterrupted views over Brammo Bay and direct access to the
beach. Set in small groups of four units (two units upstairs, two downstairs), suites
have king-size beds, luxurious bathrooms, good-size balconies with day beds, and
extras such as CD players, bathrobes, and minibars. Beachfront Rooms are just that,
with views over Brammo Bay from most. Upstairs rooms have balconies, downstairs
rooms have patios and open onto the gardens and the beach, and some have two
queen-size beds. Connecting rooms are available. A short stroll from the central
complex, resort facilities, and beach are the Garden Rooms, which are great for
families. To truly relax, visit the Spa of Peace and Plenty, two tropical-style buildings
connected by a floating boardwalk on a man-made lake, for a facial, massage,
body wrap, or other pampering.

Off Mission Beach (c/o Hideaway Resorts, P.O. Box 1087, Cairns QLD 4870). &1300/384 403 in Australia,
or 07/4047 4740 (Cairns reservations office) or 07/4068 8199 (resort). Fax 07/4047 4799 (Cairns
reservations office). www.dunk-island.com. 160 units. A$348–A$654 double. Rates include full breakfast.
Extra adult A$64. Children 12 and under stay free in parent’s room using existing bedding. Ask
about packages. AE, DC, MC, V. Hinterland Aviation operates daily 45-min. flights from Cairns to Dunk
Island (book through reservations, &1300/384 403 in Australia). Aircraft luggage limit 23kg (50 lb.)
per person. Quick Cat Cruises (&07/4068 7289) makes round-trip ferry transfers from Mission Beach
for A$56 adults, half-price kids. Mission Beach Dunk Island Water Taxi (&07/4068 8310) also make
regular ferry transfers from Mission Beach for A$20 adults and half-price kids. Sun Palm Transport
(&07/4087 2900) operate daily door-to-door coach connections from Port Douglas for A$95 and
Cairns for A$75. Fares for children 4–14 are half-price. Disembarkation from the water taxi is into the
shallows—be prepared to get at least your feet (and sometimes more!) wet. Airport pickups must be
booked. Transfers also available by air charter. Amenities: 4 restaurants; bar; babysitting; bikes; daily
kids’ club for ages 3–12 (fee); exercise room; 9-hole golf course; Internet; 2 large outdoor pools; spa; 3
lit tennis courts (1 indoor); extensive watersports equipment rental. In room: A/C, ceiling fans, TV, hair
dryer, minibar.

On Bedarra Island: The Ultimate Luxury Getaway

Only a mile long, Bedarra is home to an exclusive 15-room resort favored by the
rich, famous, and anyone who desires privacy. The staff is discreet, and day-trippers
are banned. Rainforested and fringed by beaches, Bedarra is a few miles south of
Dunk Island.

Bedarra Island


Bedarra is one of those rare and fabulous places that
throws not just meals but vintage French champagne, fine cognac and wine, and
other potable treats into the price, shocking though that price may be. The private
villas have large verandas, and there’s a sense of light and space in the public areas.
The lobby, restaurant, and 24-hour bar are open, with ironbark and recycled timber
beams and feature panels of volcanic stone. Each villa, tucked into the rainforest,
has a balcony and sea views. All come with generous living areas, king-size beds and
bathrobes, and the important things in life, such as double bathtubs and aromatherapy
oil-burners. Bathrooms offer divine pampering treats including signature
Bedarra aromatherapy oils.

Four exclusive villas sit away from the main resort, perched on cliff tops overlooking
Wedgerock Bay. The Pavilions and Point Villas offer superior facilities, including
separate living and sleeping areas, large decks, and an outdoor area with a private
plunge pool.

8
QUEENSLAND BARRIER

The North

317


QUEENSLAND & THE GREAT BARRIER REEF

The North Coast

The emphasis here is on relaxation. Walk along rainforest trails, fish off the beach,
snorkel. Take a catamaran, paddle-ski, kayak, or motorized dinghy out on the water.
These activities are free; chartering a yacht or game-fishing boat costs extra. To visit
the Great Barrier Reef, you have the choice of a 45-ft. catamaran for a spectacular
sail around the local waters, a private charter on a purpose-built 50-ft. twin hull
sports cruiser, or a scheduled Outer Reef trip departing from nearby Dunk Island
(see “Exploring the Reef,” above). The resort has a gym and massage therapy room
as well as a lounge area with Internet access. Many guests do nothing more strenuous
than have the chef pack a gourmet picnic with a bottle of bubbly and set off in
search of a deserted beach. Dress at night is smart casual.

8
Off Mission Beach (c/o Hideaway Resorts, P.O. Box 1087, Cairns QLD 4870). &1300/384 417 in Australia,
or 07/4047 4747 (Cairns reservations office). Fax 07/4047 4799 (Cairns reservations office). www.
bedarra.com.au. 16 villas. A$1,700–A$2,070 double villas; A$3,300 double Point and Pavilions. 2-night
minimum stay. Rates include all meals, 24-hr. open bar, return launch transfers from Dunk Island. Ask
about packages. Air or coach/ferry transfer to Dunk Island from Cairns (see earlier), and then 15-min.
boat transfer. Water transfers from Mission Beach available. Children 12 and under not accepted. Amenities:
Restaurant; bar; exercise room; secluded outdoor pool w/private Jacuzzi area; lit tennis court;
watersports. In room: A/C, ceiling fan, TV/VCR, CD player, hair dryer, minibar.

WHERE TO DINE
Friends Restaurant MEDITERRANEAN/SEAFOOD The beach-bar style interior
and a menu favoring local seafood make this place a long-standing favorite with
locals. Appetizers include smoked crocodile with gingered pumpkin and paw paw
salad with sweet garlic and palm sugar dressing, while main courses feature smoked
kangaroo filet, locally caught Asian-style barramundi (fish), steaks, and other hearty
fare. There are touches of Asian and Mediterranean flavors here and there. Finish
off with dessert or a platter of local Atherton Tableland cheeses.

Porters Promenade (opposite Campbell St.), Mission Beach. &07/4068 7107. Reservations recommended.
Main courses A$19–A$35. AE, MC, V. Fri–Tues 5–10:30pm or until the last diners leave and for
lunch on Sat & Sun.

Townsville & Magnetic Island

346km (215 miles) S of Cairns; 1,371km (850 miles) N of Brisbane

With a population of 140,000, Townsville claims to be Australia’s largest tropical city.
Because of its size, and an economy based on mining, manufacturing, education,
and tourism, it is sometimes overlooked as a holiday destination. Unjustly so. The
people are friendly, the city is pleasant, and there’s plenty to do. The town nestles by
the sea below the pink face of Castle Rock, which looms 300m (about 1,000 ft.)
directly above. The focus is the Strand park, which had a A$29-million revamp a
couple of years ago.

Cruises depart from the harbor for the Great Barrier Reef, about 21.2 hours away.

Just 8km (5 miles) offshore is Magnetic Island—“Maggie” to the locals—a popular

place for watersports, hiking, and spotting koalas in the wild.

Although Townsville can be hot and humid in the summer—and sometimes in the

path of cyclones—it is generally spared the worst of the Wet-season rains and boasts

300 days of sunshine a year.

ESSENTIALS
GETTING THERE Townsville is on the Bruce Highway, a 3-hour drive north of
Airlie Beach and 41.2 hours south of Cairns. The Bruce Highway breaks temporarily


in the city. From the south, take Bruce Highway Alt. 1 route into the city. From the
north, the highway leads into the city. The drive from Cairns to Townsville through
sugar-cane fields, cloud-topped hills, and lush bushland is a pretty one—one of the
most picturesque stretches in Queensland.

Qantas (& 13 13 13 in Australia; www.qantas.com.au) flies direct from Brisbane.
QantasLink flies from Cairns, Brisbane, and Mackay. Jetstar (&13 15 38
in Australia) flies direct from Brisbane, Sydney, and Melbourne’s Tullamarine airport;
and Virgin Blue (& 13 67 89 in Australia) flies direct to Townsville from
Brisbane, Cairns, Rockhampton, the Gold Coast, Canberra, and Sydney daily.

Abacus Charters & Tours (& 1300/554 378 in Australia or 07/4775 5544)
runs a door-to-door airport shuttle. It meets all flights from Brisbane, and from
Cairns or elsewhere if you book in advance. A trip into town is A$10 one-way. A taxi
from the airport to most central hotels costs about A$18.

Seven Queensland Rail (& 1300 131 722 in Queensland, or 07/3235 1122;
www.traveltrain.com.au) long-distance trains stop at Townsville each week. The
19-hour Tilt Train journey from Brisbane costs A$284. The 24-hour Sunlander journey
costs A$189 for an economy seat, A$249 to A$386 for a sleeper, and A$715 in
the luxury Queenslander Class.

Greyhound Australia (& 1300/473 946 in Australia or 07/4772 5100 in
Townsville) coaches stop at Townsville many times a day on their Cairns-Brisbane-
Cairns routes. The fare from Cairns is A$75; trip time is around 6 hours. The fare
from Brisbane is A$257; trip time is 23 hours.

VISITOR INFORMATION Townsville Enterprise Limited (& 07/4726
2728; www.townsvilleonline.com.au) has three information centers. One is in the
heart of town on Flinders Mall (& 1800/801 902 in Australia or 07/4721 3660;
www.townsvilleholidays.info); it’s open Monday through Friday from 9am to 5pm,
and weekends from 9am to 1pm. The other is on the Bruce Highway 10km (61.4
miles) south of the city (& 07/4778 3555); it’s open daily from 9am to 5pm.
There’s also an information center in the Museum of Tropical Queensland (see “The
Top Attractions,” p. 320). For information on Magnetic Island, also check www.
magneticinformer.com.au, www.magnetic-island.com.au, or www.magnetic
island.info.

GETTING AROUND Local Sunbus (& 07/4725 8482) buses depart Flinders
Mall. Car-rental chains include Avis (& 07/4721 2688), Budget (& 07/4725
2344), Europcar (& 07/4762 7050), Hertz (& 07/4775 4821), and Thrifty
(&07/4725 4600).

Detour Coaches (& 07/4728 5311) runs tours to most attractions in and
around Townsville. For a taxi, call &13 10 08.

DAY TRIPS TO THE REEF

Most boats visiting the Reef from Townsville are live-aboard vessels that make trips
of 2 or more days, designed for serious divers. Barrier Reef Dive, Cruise &
Travel (& 1800/636 778 in Australia, or 07/4772 5800; www.divecruisetravel.
com) sells day trips to Wheeler Reef, where you can make introductory dives for
A$80 for the first one and A$120 for two; certified divers can make two dives for
A$80, all gear included. The cruise costs A$180 for adults and A$130 for children
6 to 12. The price includes lunch and morning and afternoon tea, and snorkel gear.
Cruises depart Townsville at 6:30am, with a pickup at Magnetic Island en route at

8
QUEENSLAND BARRIER

The North

319


QUEENSLAND & THE GREAT BARRIER REEF

The North Coast

7:25am, and return by 5 or 5:30pm. Several operators, including Adrenalin Dive
(&1300/664 600 in Australia or 07/4724 0600; www.adrenalindive.com.au), have
trips to the Yongala, the Coral Sea, and the Reef.

THE TOP ATTRACTIONS
Museum of Tropical Queensland



This fascinating museum, with its
curved roof reminiscent of a ship in full sail, holds the relics salvaged from the wreck
of HMS Pandora, which lies 33m (108 ft.) underwater on the edge of the Great
Barrier Reef, 120km (74 miles) east of Cape York. The Pandora exhibit includes a
full-scale replica of a section of the ship’s bow and its 17m-high (56-ft.) foremast.
Standing three stories high, the replica and its copper-clad keel were crafted by local
8

shipwrights for the museum. The Pandora sank in 1791, and the wreck was discovered
in 1977. The exhibition traces the ship’s voyage and the retrieval of the sunken
treasure. The museum has six galleries, including a hands-on science center and a
natural history display that looks at life in tropical Queensland—above and below
the water. Another is dedicated to north Queensland’s indigenous heritage, with
items from Torres Strait and the South Sea Islands, as well as stories from people of
different cultures about the settlement and labor of north Queensland. Touring
exhibitions change every 3 months. Allow 2 to 3 hours, and take time to watch the
interesting film about the salvage.

70–102 Flinders St. (next to Reef HQ). &07/4726 0600 or 4726 0606 info line. www.mtq.qm.qld.gov.
au. Admission A$14 adults, A$10 seniors and students, A$8 children 4–16, A$33 families of 5. Daily
9:30am–5pm. Closed Good Friday, Dec 25, and until 1pm Apr 25 (Anzac Day).

Reef HQ


Reef HQ is the education center for the Great Barrier Reef Marine
Park Authority’s headquarters and is the largest living coral reef aquarium in the
world. The highlight is walking through a 20m-long (66-ft.) transparent acrylic tunnel,
gazing into a giant predator tank where sharks cruise silently. A replica of the
wreck of the SS Yongala provides an eerie backdrop for blacktip and whitetip reef
sharks, leopard sharks, and nurse sharks, sharing their 750,000-liter (195,000-gal.)
home with stingrays, giant trevally, and a green turtle. Watching them feed is quite a
spectacle. The tunnel also reveals the 2.5-million-liter (650,000-gal.) coral-reef
exhibit, with its hard and soft corals providing a home for thousands of fish, giant
clams, sea cucumbers, sea stars, and other creatures. During the scuba show, the
divers speak to you over an intercom while they swim with the sharks and feed the
fish. Other highlights include a touch tank and a wild sea-turtle rehabilitation center,
plus interactive activities for children. Reef HQ is an easy walk from the city center.

2–68 Flinders St. &07/4750 0800. www.reefhq.com.au. Admission A$25 adults, A$19 seniors and
students, A$12 children 5–16, A$37–A$62 families. Daily 9:30am–5pm. Closed Dec 25. Public parking lot
opposite Reef HQ. Bus: 1, 1A, or 1B (stop 3-min. walk away).

MORE THINGS TO SEE & DO

The Strand is a 2.5km (11.2-mile) strip with safe swimming beaches, a fitness circuit,
a great water park for the kids, and plenty of covered picnic areas and free gas
barbecues. Stroll along the promenade or relax at one of the many cafes, restaurants,
and bars while you gaze across the Coral Sea to Magnetic Island. For the more
active, there are areas to in-line skate, cycle, walk, or fish, and a basketball halfcourt.
Four rocky headlands and a picturesque jetty adjacent to Strand Park provide
good fishing spots, and there are two surf lifesaving clubs to service the three swimming
areas along the Strand. Cool off in the Olympic-size Tobruk Pool, the seawater


While the Whitsundays is better known
as the bareboating capital of
Queensland, the waters off Townsville
offer a less crowded alternative. Local
charter company Tropic Sail
(&07/4772 4773; www.tropicsail.com.
au) has a small fleet of yachts, catama-
rans, and motor cruisers and offers
bareboat and skippered sailing holidays
around Magnetic Island and to the 13
other unspoiled and secluded islands in
the Palms group. Owners Shaun Wat-
son and Wendy Keller are experienced
sailors who will set you on the right
course. Whether you choose a 3-day
sail around Magnetic Island, or a week-
long cruise that takes you to Great
Palm, Curacoa, Fantome, and Orpheus
islands, you can almost always count
on ultimate seclusion at more than 42
potential anchorages. These are virtu-
ally untouched cruising grounds. As
you sail, you may see dolphins, sea tur-
tles, dugong, manta rays, and—at the
right time of year—migratory whales.
There are private moorings at Magnetic
Island, so you can get off and enjoy a
meal or drink in one of the many res-
taurants or bars. Charter rates start at
A$440 to A$575 per boat per night for
a six-berth yacht, plus marine park fees
and fuel. You can hire a skipper for a
half or full day, from A$300, and Tropic
Sail can also organize provisions for
you and suggest sailing itineraries. Ask
about seasonal discounts and standby
rates. A minimum charter of 3 nights
(5 nights in peak season) applies.
Sail Away Sail Away
Rockpool, or at the beach itself. During summer (Nov–Mar), three swimming enclosures
operate to keep swimmers safe from marine stingers. If watersports are on your
agenda, try a jet ski, hire a canoe, or take to the latest in pedal skis. A state-of-the-art
water park has waterfalls, hydrants, water slides, and water cannons, plus a huge
bucket of water that continually fills until it overturns and drenches laughing
children.

Don’t miss the views of Cleveland Bay and Magnetic Island from Castle Hill; it’s
a 2.5km (11.2-mile) drive or a shorter, steep walk up from town. To drive to the top,
follow Stanley Street west from Flinders Mall to Castle Hill Drive; the walking trails
up are posted en route.

At the Billabong Sanctuary (& 07/4778 8344; www.billabongsanctuary.com.
au), on the Bruce Highway 17km (11 miles) south of town, you can see Aussie wildlife
in a natural setting and hand-feed kangaroos. You can also be photographed (starting
at A$15) holding a koala, a (baby) crocodile, a python, a wombat, and other creatures.
Interesting interactive talks and shows run continuously starting at 10:30am; one of
the most popular is the saltwater-crocodile feeding at 12:15 and 2:45pm. There are
also gas barbecues, a food kiosk, and a pool. Admission is A$29 for adults, A$26 for
students, A$18 for kids 4 to 16, and A$88 for families of five. The sanctuary is open
every day except December 25 from 8am to 5pm. Allow 2 to 3 hours.

WHERE TO STAY
Holiday Inn Townsville Right on Flinders Mall, and just a stroll from all the
city’s major attractions and the Magnetic Island ferries, this hotel is fairly standard
but is a good choice for its location. The locals call it the “Sugar Shaker.” (You’ll know
why when you see it.) The 20-story building is circular, so every room has a view of

8
QUEENSLAND BARRIER

The North

321


QUEENSLAND & THE GREAT BARRIER REEF

The North Coast

If you hear the locals refer to “Charlie’s
Trousers,” don’t be startled. They are
talking about Charters Towers, one of
two small towns within an easy day trip
that is well worth visiting. You’ll find
many remnants of bygone times in
Charters Towers, which retains splendid
examples of colonial architecture, historic
pubs, museums, and displays of old gold-
mining machinery and cottages. The
town’s One Square Mile has changed lit-
tle since the 1800s gold rush days when
it was the richest gold producing field in
Australia. Heritage Walking Maps are
available at the Visitor Information Cen-
tre, 74 Mosman St. (&07/4752 0314;
www.charterstowers.qld.gov.au), which
is open daily 9am to 5pm, closed
December 25 and 26, New Year’s Day,
and Good Friday. There you can follow
the Ghosts of Gold Heritage Trail and
listen to some tales of ghostly gold
rush characters.
About 89km (55 miles) south is
the heritage-listed town of Ravens-
wood, another good day trip. This tiny
hamlet was once home to over 4,000
people and boasted more than 50
pubs—today there are just two, but
they are worth stopping for. The Imper-
ial Hotel is a flamboyant reminder of
the town’s boom times, with its multi-
colored brickwork, wide verandas, and
Edwardian interior.
Charlie’s Trousers
the city, the bay, or Castle Hill. Suites have kitchenettes. The star attractions are the
rooftop pool and sun deck with barbecues.

334 Flinders Mall, Townsville, QLD 4810. &1800/007 697 in Australia and in the U.S. and Canada,
0345/581 666 in the U.K. or 020/8335 1304 in London, 0800/154 181 in New Zealand, or 07/4729 2000.
Fax 07/4721 1263. www.ichotelsgroup.com. 230 units. A$125–A$145 double; A$165 double suite. Ask
about weekend rates, advance-purchase rates, and packages. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking A$12 per day.
Amenities: Restaurant; 2 bars; airport transfers (A$12); babysitting; bikes; concierge; free access to
nearby health club; rooftop pool; room service. In room: A/C, TV w/pay movies, hair dryer, Internet
(A55. per min.; A$28 for 24 hr.), minibar.

Seagulls Resort This popular, low-key resort, a 5-minute drive from the city, is
built around an inviting free-form saltwater pool in 1.2 hectares (3 acres) of dense
tropical gardens. Despite the Esplanade location, the motel-style rooms do not boast
waterfront views, but they are comfortable and a good size. The larger deluxe rooms
have painted brick walls, sofas, dining furniture, and kitchen sinks. Studios and
family rooms have kitchenettes; executive suites have Jacuzzis. Apartments have a
main bedroom and a bunk bedroom (sleeps three), a kitchenette, dining furniture,
and a roomy balcony. The entire resort is wheelchair friendly, with bathroom facilities
for people with disabilities. The accommodations wings surround the pool and
its pretty open-sided restaurant, which is popular with locals. It’s a 10-minute walk
to the Strand, and most tour companies pick up at the door.

74 The Esplanade, Belgian Gardens, QLD 4810. & 1800/079 929 in Australia, or 07/4721 3111. Fax
07/4721 3133. www.seagulls.com.au. 70 units, all with shower only. A$127–A$154 double; A$160 family
rooms; A$176 2-bedroom apt; A$160–A$187 executive suite. Extra person A$15. AE, DC, MC, V. Free
parking. Bus: 7. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; airport shuttle (A$3 one-way or A$5 round-trip); children’s
playground; access to nearby golf course; access to nearby health club; 2 large outdoor saltwater pools
and children’s wading pool; room service; small tennis court. In room: A/C, TV w/free movies, hair dryer,
Wi-Fi (A$4 for 1 hr.; A$14 for 6 hr.).


WHERE TO DINE

There are many restaurants and cafes on Palmer Street, an easy stroll across the

river from Flinders Mall, on Flinders Street East, and on the Strand.
C Bar MODERN AUSTRALIAN Right on the waterfront, this is a great place for
casual seaside dining any time of day. It offers healthy choices for breakfast, tasty
burgers for lunch and is a lovely spot for sundowners or dinner. For lunch, sink your
teeth into a barramundi burger, garnished with salad, brie, and citrus aioli; at dinner
try pan-fried honey prawns with roasted almond pilaf or maybe an Indian-style
chicken curry. There’s also a “grazing” menu from 3pm till late, if you just need
something light with your drinks.

Gregory Street Headland, The Strand. &07/4724 0333. www.cbar.com.au. Main courses A$24–A$35.
AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 7am–9:30pm.

Michel’s Cafe and Bar MODERN AUSTRALIAN This big contemporary space
is popular with Townsville’s “in” crowd. Choose a table on the sidewalk, or opt for
air-conditioning inside. Owner-chef Michel Flores works in the open kitchen where
he can keep an eye on the excellent servers. You might choose braised lamb shank
with duck sausage, butter bean cassoulet, and caramelized vegetables; or North
African spiced white king salmon with citrus butter sauce; or something more
casual, such as a classic bouillabaisse, the stylish pastas, seafood, or warm salads.

7 Palmer St. &07/4724 1460. www.michelsrestaurant.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses
A$29–A$38. AE, DC, MC, V. Tues–Fri 11:30am–2:30pm; Tues–Sat 5:30pm–late.

Osman’s MEDITERRANEAN/TURKISH One of Townsville’s newest restaurants,
Osman’s is a family-run business serving up the flavors of owner Osman
Gurkan’s homeland. Turkish cuisine predominates with dishes such as sucuk—
spiced beef sausage and warm hummus (chickpea dip)—and the signature kebab,
lamb eye fillet rolled with eggplant and capsicum paste served with rice pilaf. You’ll
also be drawn by the warmth of the wood-fired oven, which produces pide (pizza).
The decor is Middle Eastern too, with laid-back Turkish cushions giving a casual,
comfortable feel to the place.

241–245 Flinders St. E. &07/4721 4772. www.osmans.com.au. Main courses A$29–A$38. AE, DC, MC,

V. Wed–Sun noon–3pm; Tues–Sun 6pm–late.
A SIDE TRIP TO MAGNETIC ISLAND

8km (5 miles) E of Townsville

“Maggie” is a delightful 51-sq.-km (20-sq.-mile) national park island 20 minutes from
Townsville by ferry. About 2,500 people live here, and it’s popular with Aussies, who
love its holiday atmosphere. Don’t be put off by the rather stark look of the brand-new
resort developments flanking the ferry landing. Head farther into the island and you’ll
find a busy little place with plenty of unspoiled (for now at least) places to restore
your soul. Small settlements dot the coastline and there’s a good range of restaurants
and laid-back cafes. Most people come for the 20 or so pristine and uncrowded bays
and white beaches, but hikers, botanists, and birders may want to explore the eucalyptus
woods, patches of gully rainforest, and granite tors. The island got its name
when Captain Cook thought the “magnetic” rocks were interfering with his compass
readings. It is famous for koalas, easily spotted in roadside gum trees; ask a local to
point you to the nearest colony. Rock wallabies are often seen in the early morning.
Maggie, by and large off the tourist trail, is definitely a flip-flops kind of place.

8
QUEENSLAND BARRIER

The North

323


QUEENSLAND & THE GREAT BARRIER REEF

The North Coast

VISITOR INFORMATION There is no information center on Magnetic Island.
Stop off at the Flinders Mall Visitor Information Centre (&1800/801 902 in
Australia, or 07/4721 3660) in Townsville before you cross to the island. It’s open
Monday through Friday from 9am to 5pm, and weekends from 9am to 1pm.

GETTING THERE & GETTING AROUND Sunferries (& 07/4726 0800)
runs 15 round-trips a day from the Breakwater terminal on Sir Leslie Thiess Drive.
Round-trip tickets are A$29 for adults, A$15 for children 5 to 14, and A$66 for
families of five. The trip takes about 25 minutes.

You can take your car on the ferry, but most people get around by renting an opensided
minimoke (similar to a golf cart) from the many rental outfits on the island.8 Minimokes are unlikely to go much over 60kmph (36 mph). Moke Magnetic
(& 07/4778 5377; www.mokemagnetic.com) rents them for around A$73 a day,
including fuel. Sun Bus (& 07/4778 5130; www.sunbus.com.au) runs a 3-hour
guided tour of the island for A$40 for adults, half-price for kids 5 to 15, or A$120
for families of five. Tours leave at 9:15am and 1:15pm daily from Nelly Bay Harbour.

Out & About on the Island

There is no end to the things you can do on Maggie—snorkeling, swimming in one
of a dozen or more bays, catamaran sailing, waterskiing, paraflying, horseback riding
on the beach, biking, tennis or golf, scuba diving, sea kayaking, sailing or cruising
around the island, taking a Harley-Davidson tour, fishing, and more. Equipment for
all these activities is for rent on the island. Most activities spread out around Nelly
Bay (where the ferry pulls in); the island’s other two settlements, Arcadia and Horseshoe
Bay; and Picnic Bay.

The island is not on the Great Barrier Reef, but surrounding waters are part of the
Great Barrier Reef Marine Park. There is good reef snorkeling at Florence Bay on the
southern edge, Arthur Bay on the northern edge, and Geoffrey Bay, where you can
even reef-walk at low tide. (Wear sturdy shoes and do not walk directly on coral to
avoid damaging it.) First-time snorkelers will have an easy time of it in Maggie’s weak
currents and softly sloping beaches. Outside stinger season, there is good swimming
at any number of bays all around the island. Reef-free Alma Bay, with its shady lawns
and playground, is a good choice for families; Rocky Bay is a small, secluded cove.

One of the best, and therefore most popular, of the island’s 20km (13 miles) of
hiking trails is the Nelly Bay–Arcadia trail, a one-way journey of 5km (3 miles)
that takes 21. hours. The first 45 minutes, starting in rainforest and climbing to a

2

saddle between Nelly Bay and Horseshoe, are the most interesting. Another excellent
walk is the 2km (11.4-mile) trail to the Forts, remnants of World War II
defenses, which, not surprisingly, have great 360-degree sea views. The best koala
spotting is on the track up to the Forts off Horseshoe Bay Road. Carry water when
walking—some bays and hiking trails are not near shops.

If you feel like splurging, consider a jet-ski circumnavigation of the island with
Adrenalin Jet Ski Tours & Hire (&07/4778 5533). The 3-hour tour on a twoseat
jet ski costs A$370 per ski, which includes your wet suits, life jackets, and tinted
goggles. Tours depart from Horseshoe Bay morning and afternoon. Keep your eyes
peeled for dolphins, dugongs (manatees), sea turtles, and humpback whales in season.
A 75-minute tour of the northern side of the island costs A$160 per ski and runs
three times a day.


The World’s Most Expensive Beverage
If strong coffee is on your mind, head to
Herveys Range Heritage Tea Rooms
(&07/4778 0199; www.heritagetea
rooms.com.au), about a 40-minute drive
west from Townsville. There you’ll find
what Jack Nicholson’s billionaire character
in the film The Bucket List dubbed
“the world’s most expensive beverage”—
and probably the world’s most
unique beverage, too. At A$50 a cup,
you may only have one cup—but this is
one of only a few places in the world
you can buy kopi luwak, or what the
locals call “cat-poo coffee.” To explain:
The catlike luwak, or Asian Palm Civet,
which lives in the coffee-growing
regions of Indonesia, likes eating ripe
coffee cherries, but does not digest the
inner bean, which can later be retrieved
from its droppings. The beans are
washed, dried, and roasted lightly so
their complex flavors are not destroyed.
This interesting—trust me, it’s perfectly
palatable—drop is sold alongside exotic
teas and Australian fare such as scones,
cakes, meat pies, and other home-style
dishes. If you want to walk off your
lunch or explore further, there’s a 1.4km
(1 mile) walking track around the property.
Herveys Range Heritage Tea Rooms
is on Thornton’s Gap Road, Herveys
Range, about 45km (28 miles) west of
Townsville. It’s open daily from 9am to
4pm, except Christmas Day.

8
Where to Stay on Magnetic Island

Bungalow Bay Koala Village


Here’s your chance to stay almost inside a
wildlife sanctuary. Bungalow Bay is a collection of cabins (with and without en-suite
bathrooms) and dormitories set on 6.5 hectares (16 acres) of bushland, home to rock
wallabies, curlews, lorikeets, and koalas. Bungalow Bay is run by friendly hands-on
owners Brett and Janelle Fielding, who ensure there’s plenty of night-time entertainment,
including movie and trivia nights and coconut bowling. Two-hour tours of the
koala park are run at 10am, noon, and 2:30pm, starting at reception (the park is only
open at these times). The first hour is within the wildlife park, where you can wrap
yourself in a python, pet a lizard, hold a small saltwater crocodile, and get up close
with a koala. The second hour is a guided bush walk to explore nearby habitats of
eucalyptus forest, wetlands, mangroves, or coastal dunes, and to learn about the
history of the traditional owners, the Wulgurukaba people. Entry to the park costs
A$19 adults, A$17 backpackers or students, A$10 children 4 to 16, or A$55 for
families of five. Koala holding costs A$14 including two souvenir photos, with proceeds
supporting Magnetic Island wildlife care groups. Facilities include a camper’s
kitchen (all gear free of charge, with a refundable deposit), snorkeling gear for hire,
and the island’s best Internet cafe, with Skype, CD burners, five computers, and
printing facilities. Bungalow Bay is also home to Maggie’s only campground (tent
sites A$13 per person; A$30 per couple for a powered site).
40 Horseshoe Bay Rd., Horseshoe Bay, Magnetic Island, QLD 4819. &1800/285 577 in Australia or
07/4778 5577. Fax 07/4778 5781. www.bungalowbay.com.au. 30 units. A$74–A$90 double; A$28 per
person dorms. Ask about packages. MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; bikes; Internet;
pool. In room: A/C.

Peppers Blue on Blue This rather stark-looking resort is one of two brand-new
developments flanking the Magnetic Island ferry terminal; it will be one of the first

QUEENSLAND BARRIER

The North

325


QUEENSLAND & THE GREAT BARRIER REEF

The North Coast

things you see when you arrive. But it is still somewhat soulless and is not representative
of what you will discover when you venture farther in to some of the island’s
more preserved areas. The resort features well-appointed, comfortable, and contemporary
guest rooms, including suites and two- and three-bedroom apartments with
bright touches and views of the waterfront, marina, and mountains. There’s a large
saltwater-lagoon-style pool, some units have private plunge pools, and there’s also a
day spa if you want to indulge. The resort is near the island’s new supermarket.

123 Sooning St., Nelly Bay, Magnetic Island, QLD 4819. &07/4758 2400. Fax 07/4758 2499. www.
peppers.com.au. A$179–A$295 double; A$299–A$365 2-bedroom apt; A$399–A$465 3-bedroom apt.
Extra person (13 years and older) A$66. Crib A$10. Ask about packages. AE, DC, MC, V. Free undercover
parking. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; concierge; 3 pools; room service; spa. In room: A/C, TV/DVD w/

8

pay movies, CD player, hair dryer, kitchen (except standard rooms), minibar, Wi-Fi (A$5 for 30 min.).

Orpheus Island

80km (50 miles) N of Townsville; 190km (118 miles) S of Cairns

From the moment the small white seaplane bringing you to Orpheus lands—either
within stepping distance of the beach, or at the floating pontoon offshore—you’ll
know you’re somewhere special. The waters surrounding Orpehus Island are home
to 340 of the 350 or so coral species found in the Great Barrier Reef, 1,100 species
of fish, green and loggerhead turtles, dolphins, manta rays, and, from June through
September, humpback whales. With a maximum of 42 guests and no day-trippers,
the only other people you will see are the attentive but unobtrusive resort staff and
the occasional scientist from the James Cook University marine research station in
the next bay. It’s no wonder that since the 1930s, those seeking seclusion have
headed to this beautiful island—among them actress Vivien Leigh, novelist Zane
Grey, and rock star Elton John. One of the Great Barrier Reef’s most exclusive
retreats, Orpheus Island Resort is also a popular getaway for executives, politicians,
honeymooners, and any savvy traveler eager for peace and beauty.

Transfers are by eight-seat Cessna seaplane from Townsville and Cairns daily.
Return fares are A$450 from Townsville, A$850 from Cairns, or A$650 originating
in one place and returning to the other, per person round-trip. Book through the
resort. Luggage limit is 15 kilograms (55 lb.) per person.

Orpheus Island Resort


If seclusion and tranquillity are what you are looking
for, this is the place to find them. The resort is a cluster of rooms lining one of the
prettiest turquoise bays you’ll find anywhere. Most guests spend their time snorkeling
over coral reefs, chilling with a good book or magazine in the Quiet Lounge, or
lazing in a hammock. Free activities include tennis, snorkeling, catamaran sailing,
canoeing, paddle-skiing, fishing, and taking a motorized dinghy around the shore to
explore some of the island’s 1,300 hectares (3,211 acres) of national park. You can
pay to go game fishing, charter a boat or seaplane to the outer Reef, or do a dive
course. A seven-course degustation-style menu is served nightly in the restaurant.
All the rooms and suites on Orpheus are beachfront. Most of the 17 Orpheus
retreats are in blocks of three, and each has a personal patio and a Jacuzzi. Four
Nautilus suites are more spacious, with separate lounge and bedroom areas, large
private patios, and large Jacuzzis. Two have enclosed garden courtyards.

Orpheus Island, Great Barrier Reef (P.M.B. 15), Townsville, QLD 4810. &07/4777 7377. Fax 07/4777
7533. www.orpheus.com.au. 21 units. A$1,600 Orpheus Retreat double; A$2,000 Nautilus Suite double.
Rates include all meals but not drinks. Ask about packages. AE, DC, MC, V. Children 14 and under not


accepted. Amenities: Restaurant; 2 bars; concierge; exercise room; free Internet; Jacuzzi; 2 small outdoor
pools, 1 w/swim-up bar; lit tennis court; watersports rentals. In room: A/C, CD player, hair dryer,
minibar, no phone.

THE WHITSUNDAY COAST &
ISLANDS

A day’s drive or a 1-hour flight south of Cairns brings you to the dazzling collection
of 74 islands known as the Whitsundays. No more than 3 nautical miles (3.4km/2
miles) separate most of the islands, and altogether they represent countless bays,
beaches, dazzling coral reefs, and fishing spots that make up one fabulous Great
Barrier Reef playground. Sharing the same latitude as Rio de Janeiro and Hawaii, the
water is at least 72°F (22°C) year-round, the sun shines most of the year, and in
winter you’ll require only a light jacket at night.

All the islands consist of densely rainforested national park land, mostly uninhabited.
The surrounding waters belong to the Great Barrier Reef Marine Park. But
don’t expect palm trees and coconuts—these islands are covered with dry-looking
pine and eucalyptus forests full of dense undergrowth, and rocky coral coves far
outnumber the few sandy beaches. More than half a dozen islands have resorts that
offer just about all the activities you could ever want—snorkeling, scuba diving, sailing,
reef fishing, water-skiing, jet-skiing, parasailing, sea kayaking, hiking, rides over
the coral in semisubmersibles, fish feeding, putt-putting around in dinghies to
secluded beaches, playing tennis or squash, and aqua-aerobics classes. Accommodations
range from small, low-key wilderness retreats to midrange family havens to
Australia’s most luxurious resort, Hayman.

The village of Airlie Beach is the center of the action on the mainland. But the
islands themselves are just as good a stepping stone to the outer Great Barrier Reef
as Cairns, and some people consider them better, because you don’t have to make the
90-minute trip to the Reef before you hit coral. Just about any Whitsunday island has
fringing reef around its shores, and there are good snorkeling reefs between the
islands, a quick boat ride away from your island or mainland accommodations.

Essentials

GETTING THERE By Car The Bruce Highway leads south from Cairns or
north from Brisbane to Proserpine, 26km (16 miles) inland from Airlie Beach. Take
the Whitsunday turnoff to reach Airlie Beach and Shute Harbour. Allow a good 8
hours to drive from Cairns. There are several car-storage facilities at Shute Harbour.
Whitsunday Car Security (&07/4946 9955) will collect your car anywhere in
the Whitsunday area and store it in locked covered parking for A$10 per day or A$15
overnight.

BY PLANE There are two air routes into the Whitsundays: Hamilton Island
Airport and Whitsunday Coast Airport at Proserpine on the mainland. QantasLink
(&13 13 13 in Australia) flies direct to Hamilton Island from Cairns. Virgin Blue
(& 13 67 89 in Australia) flies to Proserpine direct from Brisbane, with connections
from other capitals, and direct from Brisbane and Sydney to Hamilton Island.
Jetstar (&13 15 38 in Australia) flies from Brisbane to Proserpine and from Brisbane,
Melbourne, and Sydney to Hamilton Island. If you stay on an island, the resort

8
QUEENSLAND BARRIER

The Whitsunday Coast & Islands

327


may book your launch transfers automatically. These may appear on your airline

ticket, in which case your luggage will be checked through to the island.
BY TRAIN Several Queensland Rail (& 1300 131 722 in Australia; www.
traveltrain.com.au) long-distance trains stop at Proserpine every week. The one-way
fare from Cairns on the Tilt Train is A$147. There is a bus link to Airlie Beach.
Brisbane fares range from A$239 on the Tilt Train to A$343 for a first-class sleeper
on the Sunlander or A$637 for the all-inclusive Queenslander Class service.

BY BUS Greyhound Australia (& 1300/473 946 in Australia; www.grey
hound.com.au) operates plentiful daily services to Airlie Beach from Brisbane (trip
time: around 19 hr.) and Cairns (trip time: 11 hr.). The fare is A$214 from Brisbane

8

and A$131 from Cairns.

VISITOR INFORMATION The Whitsundays Information Centre (&1300/
717 407 in Australia, or 07/4945 3711; www.whitsundaytourism.com) is at 192
Main St., Proserpine (on the Bruce Highway in the town’s south). It’s run by Tourism
Whitsundays and is open Monday to Friday from 9am to 5pm and weekends and
public holidays (except Good Friday and Dec 25) from 10am to 4pm.

If you’re staying in Airlie Beach, it’s easy to pick up information from the private
booking agents lining the main street. All stock a vast range of cruise, tour, and hotel
information, and make bookings free of charge. They all have pretty much the same
stuff, but because some represent certain boats exclusively, and because prices can
vary a little from one to the next, shop around.

GETTING AROUND Island ferries and Great Barrier Reef cruises leave from
Shute Harbour, a 10-minute drive south of Airlie Beach on Shute Harbour Road.
Most other tour-boat operators and bareboat charters anchor at Abel Point Marina,
a 15-minute walk west from Airlie Beach. Most tour-boat operators pick up guests
free from Airlie Beach hotels and pick up at some or all island resorts.

Whitsunday Transit (& 07/4946 1800; www.whitsundaytransit.com.au)
meets all flights and trains at Proserpine and provides door-to-door transfers to Airlie
Beach hotels or to Shute Harbour. The fare from the airport is A$15 adults and A$9
children to Airlie Beach or Shute Harbour. From the train station, it is A$8.20 adults
and A$4.20 children to Airlie Beach or A$11 adults and A$5.50 children to Shute
Harbour. Bookings are essential, and should be made 48 hours in advance if possible.
They also run buses every halfhour
between Airlie Beach and Shute
Harbour to meet all ferries. The fare is
A$4.65. A 10-trip ticket, valid for 1
month and able to be used by more
than one person, allows travel between
Shute Harbour, Airlie Beach, Cannonvale,
and Proserpine. It costs
A$23 adults and A$12 children,
which means A$2.25 per trip. An
Explorer Pass, good for unlimited
travel between Shute Harbour, Airlie
Beach, Cannonvale, and Proserpine

The Whitsunday Coast & Islands

QUEENSLAND & THE GREAT BARRIER REEF
Although they have not been sighted at
Airlie Beach for several years, deadly
marine stingers may frequent the
shorelines from October through April.
The best place to swim is in the beach-
front Airlie Beach lagoon.
The rivers in these parts are home to
dangerous saltwater crocodiles (which
mostly live in fresh water, contrary to
their name), so don’t swim in streams,
rivers, and water holes.
Safety in the Water

The Whitsunday Region


QUEENSLAND BARRIER The Whitsunday Coast & Islands
1
Repulse
BayShute
Bay
Whitsunday
Passage
Passag
HookIsland
AirlieBay
BoathavenBayAirlieBeachConway
WilsonLethebrookCannonvaleEarlandoProserpineShute HarbourCONWAYNATIONALPARKDRYANDERNATIONALPARKCedarCreekFallsTo MidgePointWhitehavenBeachCanConwayRangeLongLongIslandIslandWhitsundayWhitsundayIslandIslandSouthSouthMolle I.Molle I.
HookHookIslandIslandMOLLE ISLANDSMOLLE ISLANDSNAT'L PARKNAT'L PARKShuteShuteHarbour Rd.Harbour Rd.ConwayConway
Rd.Rd.
BruceBruceHwy.Hwy.
nonnonValleyValley
Rd.Rd.
StrathdickieStrathdickieRd.Rd.
CanCanConway
Range
RepulseBay
PACIFICOCEANShuteBay
WhitsundayPassage
Passage
HookIsland
AirlieBay
CoralSea
BoathavenBay
AirlieBeach
Conway
Wilson
LethebrookCannonvale
EarlandoProserpine
Shute HarbourCONWAYNATIONALPARK
WHITSUNDAYISLANDSNAT'L PARK
LINDEMANISLANDSNAT'L PARK
MOLLE ISLANDSNAT'L PARK
DRYANDERNATIONALPARK
CedarCreekFallsTo MidgePoint
WhitehavenBeach
ShuteHarbour Rd.Conway
Rd.
BruceHwy.
nonValley
Rd.
StrathdickieRd.
Can
LindemanIsland
LongIsland
HamiltonIsland
CapeConway
DaydreamI.
Hayman I.
WhitsundayIsland
SouthMolle I.
HookIsland
Haslewood I.
Grassy I.
Armit I.
Shaw I.Pentecost I.
NorthMolle I.
DoubleCone I.
Airlie Beach10 mi00
10 km
AirportFerry LinesBeach
AUSTRALIAA
U
S
T
R
A
L
I
AAUSTRALIACanberraCanberraPerthPerthDarwinDarwinSydneySydneyCanberra
PerthDarwin
SydneyMelbourneMelbourneMelbourneBrisbaneBrisbaneBrisbaneArea ofArea ofdetaildetailArea ofdetail
8
329


QUEENSLAND & THE GREAT BARRIER REEF

The Whitsunday Coast & Islands


COME sail WITH ME


If “bareboating” is a mystery to you,
take heart—you’re not alone. It simply
means you are sailing the boat yourself.
And if that seems daunting, rest
assured that thousands of people do it
safely every year. Most of the many
yacht-charter companies in the islands
will want one person on the boat to
have a little experience at the helm of a
vessel, but don’t worry if you’re a total
novice. You do not need a license, and
sailing is surprisingly easy in these
uncrowded waters, where the channels
are deep and hazard-free and the seas
are protected from big swells by the
Great Barrier Reef. The 74 islands are
so close to each other that one is
always in sight, and safe anchorages
are everywhere.

If you have no boating experience, or
if you think you know what you’re doing
but just want extra reassurance, the
company may require you to take a
skipper along at an extra cost of around
A$35 per hour or A$320 overnight. Most
companies mail you a preparation kit

before you leave home. Before departure,
they give you a thorough 2- to
3-hour briefing and easy-to-read maps
marking channels, anchorage points,
and the very few dangerous reefs. Your
charter company will radio in once or
twice a day to check that you’re still
afloat, and you can contact the staff
anytime for advice.

Most yachts are fitted for two to
eight passengers. Try to get a boat
with two berths more than you need if
your budget will bear it, because space
is always tight. The boats usually have
a galley kitchen, a barbecue mounted
to the stern, hot showers, a toilet, linens,
a radio or stereo (or both), a
motorized dinghy, and snorkeling
equipment. Sleeping quarters usually
include a mix of single galley berths
and one or two very compact private
cabins. You can buy your own provisions
or have the charter company
stock the boat at an extra cost of about
A$45 per person per day. Most operators
will load a windsurfer, fishing

from 6am to 10:30pm on the date of issue, costs A$8.50 for adults and half-price for
children.

Fantasea Cruises (& 1800/650 851 in Australia, or 07/4946 5111; www.
fantasea.com.au) connects Hamilton Island Airport, Hamilton Island Marina, and
the Whitsunday mainland at Abel Point Marina (Airlie Beach) and Shute Harbour.
Timetables coordinate with all arriving and departing flights into Hamilton Island
Airport. Ferry services also connect with Whitsunday Transit for coach services to
and from Whitsunday Coast Airport.

The Fantasea Express service operates between Hamilton Island Airport and Abel
Point Marina. The fare includes coach transfers from Airlie Beach accommodations
to the marina for the ferry transfer to Hamilton Island. The cost is A$45 adults and
A$25 children 4 to 14 one-way.

Cruise Whitsundays (& 07/4946 4662; www.cruisewhitsundays.com.au)
operates Resort Connections, providing transfer services between Hamilton Island
Airport and Whitsunday Coast Airport at Proserpine and Daydream Island and Long
Island, as well as all Airlie Beach properties.


tackle, and scuba-diving equipment on
request, for an extra fee if they are not
standard.

In peak season, you may have to
charter the boat for a week. At other
times, most companies impose a minimum
of 5 days, but many will rent for 3
nights if you ask, rather than let a vessel
sit idle. Five nights is a good length; it
allows you to get familiar enough with
the boat to relax and enjoy yourself.

In peak season, expect to pay A$530
to A$700 per night for a standard four-
to six-berth yacht, more if you want
something luxurious. Rates in the off
season, and even in the Whitsundays’
busiest time, June through August, will
be anywhere from A$100 to A$200 less.
If you are prepared to book within 14
days of when you want to sail, the deals
can be even better; you should be able
to find a boat that late in the off season.
You may be asked to post a credit card
bond of around A$2,000. Fuel and park
fees are extra, and mooring fees apply if
you want to stop at one of the island

resorts overnight. A number of bareboat-
charter companies offer “sail-’n’stay”
packages that combine a few days
of sailing with a few days at an island
resort.

Most bareboat charter companies will
make complete holiday arrangements
for you in the islands, including accommodations,
transfers, tours, and sporting
activities. Most companies operate out
of Airlie Beach, Hamilton Island, or both.
Well-known operators include Whitsunday
Rent-A-Yacht (&1800/075 000 in
Australia, or 07/4946 9232; www.renta
yacht.com.au); Queensland Yacht Charters
(&1800/075 013 in Australia, or
07/4946 7400; www.yachtcharters.com.
au); and Sunsail (&1800/803 988 in
Australia or 07/4948 9509; www.sunsail.
com.au). Tourism Whitsundays (see
“Visitor Information,” above) can furnish
you with a complete list of operators.

If you don’t want to sail yourself,
countless skippered sailing trips go
through the islands (see “Sailing &
Snorkeling Trips,” below).

8
QUEENSLAND BARRIER

The Whitsunday Coast & Islands

Avis (& 07/4946 6318), Europcar (& 07/4946 4133), and Hertz (& 07/
4946 4687) have outlets in Airlie Beach and Proserpine Airport (telephone numbers
serve both locations).

Choosing a Whitsunday Base

The advantages of staying on the mainland are cheaper accommodations, a choice
of restaurants, and the freedom to visit a different island each day. The mainland has
jet-skiing, kayaking, parasailing, catamaran rental, and windsurfing.

The main advantage of staying on an island is that swimming, snorkeling, bushwalking,
and a huge range of watersports, many of them free, are right outside your
door. The deadly stingers that can infest Airlie’s shores do not make it to the islands,
so swimming in the islands is safe year-round. You won’t be isolated if you stay on an
island, because most Great Barrier Reef cruise boats, sail-and-snorkel yacht excursions,
Whitehaven Beach cruises, dive boats, fishing tour vessels, and so on stop at
the island resorts every day or on a frequent basis. Be warned, however, that once
you’re “captive” on an island, you may be slugged with high food and drink prices.
Bear in mind, too, that although most island resorts offer nonmotorized watersports,

331


The Whitsunday Coast & Islands

such as windsurfing and catamaran sailing, free of charge, you will pay for activities
that use fuel, such as parasailing, water-skiing, and dinghy rental.
In some places in the Whitsundays, extreme low tides may reveal rocky mud flats
below the sand line. Watersports can be limited then because of the low water level.

Exploring the Islands & the Reef

REEF CRUISES Fantasea Cruises (&07/4946 5111; www.fantasea.com.au)
makes daily trips to Hardy Reef from Shute Harbour, near Airlie Beach, in a highspeed,
air-conditioned catamaran. The boat has a bar, and a biologist gives a marine
ecology talk en route. You anchor at the massive Fantasea Reefworld pontoon, which

8 holds up to 600 people, and spend up to 31.2 hours on the Reef. The day trip costs
A$225 for adults, A$102 for children 5 to 15, or A$589 for families of four. Guided
snorkel safaris cost A$40 extra for adults and A$20 for children. You can book dives
on board for A$115 for first-time divers and A$100 for certified dives. Cruises depart
at 8am and pick up passengers at Daydream and Hamilton island resorts. Passengers
from Long Island can connect by water taxi.
A fun alternative is Fantasea’s 2-day, 1-night ReefSleep, during which you spend
the night on the pontoon. This gives you a fabulous chance to snorkel at night when
the coral is luminescent in the moonlight and nocturnal sea creatures get busy. The
trip includes two scuba dives, plenty of night snorkeling, two buffet lunches, dinner
under the stars with wine, and breakfast and more snorkeling on the second day. You
can stay in a clean, comfortable bunkroom for four for A$460 per person, or in the
double cabin, which has a king-size bed, for A$630 per person. With so few guests
per night, you have the Reef all to yourself.

SAILING & SNORKELING TRIPS


A cheaper alternative to skippering your
own yacht—also called “bareboating”—around the Whitsundays (see “Come Sail
with Me,” above) is a journey on one of the many yachts offering 3-day, 2-night sailing
adventures around the islands. You can learn to sail or get involved with sailing
the boat as much or as little as you want, snorkel to your heart’s content over one
dazzling reef after another, beach comb, explore national park trails, stop at secluded
bays, swim, sunbathe, and generally have a laid-back good time. A few companies
offer introductory and qualified scuba diving for an extra cost per dive. Most boats
carry a maximum of 12 passengers, so the atmosphere is always friendly and fun.
The food is generally good, the showers are usually hot, and you sleep in comfortable
but small berths off the galley. Some have small private twin or double cabins.
QUEENSLAND & THE GREAT BARRIER REEF
High season in the Whitsundays coin-
cides with school vacations, which
occur in January, in mid-April, from
late June to early July, from late Sep-
tember to early October, and in late
December. The Aussie winter, June
through August, is popular, too. You
have to book months ahead to get
high-season accommodations, but any
other time you can indeed find some
good deals: Specials on accommoda-
tions, sailing trips, day cruises, and
diving excursions fairly leap off the
blackboards outside the tour-booking
agents in Airlie Beach.
The Secret of the Seasons

Hitting the Sand at Whitehaven Beach
The 6km (33.4-mile) stretch of pure-white
silica sand on Whitehaven Beach
will leave you in rapture. The beach, on
uninhabited Whitsunday Island, does
not boast a lot of coral, but the swimming
is good and the forested shore is
beautiful. Take a book and chill out.
Some sailboat day trips visit it, as do
some motorized vessels. A day trip
with Fantasea Cruises (&07/4946 5111;
www.fantasea.com.au) costs A$110 per
adult, A$50 for children ages 5 to 15, or
A$295 for a family of four from Hamilton
Island; or A$140 adults, A$55 children,
or A$365 from Shute Harbour.
Lunch is included.

8
Prices usually include all meals, Marine Park entrance fees, snorkel gear, and
transfers to the departure point (Abel Point Marina or Shute Harbour). In the off
season, the boats compete fiercely for passengers; you’ll see signboards on the main
street in Airlie Beach advertising standby deals.

Among the better known boats are the Ragamuffin (&1800/454 777 in Australia
or 07/4946 7777; www.maxiaction.com.au), a 17m (56-ft.) oceangoing yacht
which runs two 2-hour sailing trips, to Blue Pearl Bay and Whitehaven Beach. Each
costs A$156 adults, A$60 kids 5 to 15, or A$365 for a family of four. Prosail
(&07/4946 7533; www.prosail.com.au) runs sailing trips through the Great Barrier
Reef Marine Park. All trips include sailing, snorkeling, scuba diving, and bushwalking,
and you can sail on megayachts such as the Condor, Broomstick, and
Hammer. A 2-day, 2-night trip costs A$399 per person. Contact Tourism Whitsundays
(see “Visitor Information,” above) for details on other charters.

ISLAND HOPPING Day-trippers to Hamilton, Daydream, South Molle, Club
Crocodile Long Island, and Hook Island resorts can rent the hotels’ watersports
equipment, laze by the beaches and pools, scuba dive, join the resorts’ activities
programs, hike their trails, and eat at some or all of their restaurants. See “The
Whitsunday Island Resorts,” below, for details on where to stay. Club Crocodile’s
Long Island Resort is rather noisy but unpretentious, with plentiful watersports,
picturesque hiking trails, wild wallabies, and a large beach-cum-tidal-flat where you
can relax on sun lounges.

SCENIC FLIGHTS Expect to pay around A$99 for a 10-minute flight (or A$300
for an hour) over the Whitsundays—a spectacular sight from the air. Aviation Tourism
Australia (& 07/4946 8249; www.avta.com.au) and Air Whitsunday
(&07/4946 9111; www.airwhitsunday.com.au) offer a large range of tours, including
seaplane flights to a Reef pontoon to snorkel for a couple of hours, or a helicopter
trip to a private island with a picnic lunch and snorkel gear.

FISHING Reef fishing is superb throughout the islands; red emperor, coral trout,
sweetlip, and snapper are common catches. One of the most popular charter vessels
is the 16m (52-ft.) timber cruiser Moruya (& 07/4948 1029 or 0400/450 111
mobile phone; www.fishingwhitsunday.com.au). Day trips depart Shute Harbour
daily at around 8am. They include lunch, bait, and fishing rods. The crew will even
clean your catch for you. Adults pay A$150, students and children 4 to 14 pay A$90,
and families of four pay A$380.

QUEENSLAND BARRIER

The Whitsunday Coast & Islands

333


QUEENSLAND & THE GREAT BARRIER REEF

The Whitsunday Coast & Islands

The Whitsundays Great Walk—one of
six Great Walks of Queensland—covers
36km (22 miles) in Conway State Forest
and Conway National Park, behind Air-
lie Beach. The trail starts at the end of
Brandy Creek Road, a short drive from
Cannonvale, and winds in three stages
from Brandy Creek to Airlie Beach,
with two campsites at 12km (71.2-mile)
intervals. The hills here are rich in
giant strangler figs, ferns, and palms,
and if you’re lucky, you’ll spot a giant
blue Ulysses butterfly. Walkers should
carry drinking water, because the
water in natural systems is not good
for drinking.
A permit is required for overnight
walks and must be booked in advance
(&13 13 04 in Australia; www.qld.gov.
au/camping). The cost is A$5 per per-
son or A$20 for a family of two adults
and up to six children ages 5 to 17.
More information on this and other
walks, including the new Ngaro Sea
Trail, which links sea routes with walks
on Hook, Whitsunday, and South Molle
islands, can be obtained from the
Queensland Parks and Wildlife Service
information center, Shute Harbour Road
at Mandalay Road (&07/4967 7355)
2.5km (11.2 miles) northeast of Airlie
Beach. It’s open Monday through Friday
from 9am to 4:30pm.
For more details on all Great Walks,
log onto www.derm.qld.gov.au/parks_
and_forests/great_walks.
Great Whitsunday Walking
If you want to undertake your own fishing expedition, Harbourside Boat Hire,
in Shute Harbour (&07/4946 9330), rents motorized dinghies for A$60 for a halfday
or A$90 for a full day. Half-cabin cruisers cost A$90 for a half-day, A$150 for a
full day. They also rent fishing rods and sell tackle, bait, ice, and anything else you
might need for angling.

ECOTOURS Visitors to the Whitsundays can get up close and personal with
crocodiles in their natural habitat with Proserpine River Eco Tours (&07/4948
3310; www.crocodilesafari.com.au), which combines an open-air wagon ride
through the pristine Goorganga wetlands and a boat trip on the river to learn more
about one of Queensland’s major crocodile-breeding grounds. This is the only place
to see crocs in safety in the wild south of the Daintree. Bus pickups operate from
Airlie Beach, Cannonvale, and Proserpine for the tours, which run about 4 hours,
depending on tides, and cost A$110 for adults, A$55 for kids 1 to 14. Back on land,
you’ll enjoy billy tea, the best damper I’ve ever tasted (and they’ll even give you the
recipe), and a talk on native wildlife over a barbecue lunch.

GOLFING Queensland’s Hamilton Island Golf Club (& 02/9433 0444;
www.hamiltonislandgolfclub.com.au) has opened as Australia’s only 18-hole championship
golf course on its own island. The 6,120m (6,690 yard), par-71 course sits
on Dent Island, just a 5-minute ferry ride from Hamilton Island in the Whitsundays.

SEA KAYAKING


If you have strong arms, sea kayaking is a wonderful way to
enjoy the islands. Daydream Island and the beaches and bays of the North, Mid, and
South Molle group of islands are all within paddling distance of the mainland. It’s
common to see dolphins, turtles, and sharks along the way. One long-established
operator is Salty Dog Sea Kayaking (& 07/4946 1388; www.saltydog.com.au),

which takes escorted trips through the islands. Half-day trips run on Tuesday,
Wednesday, and Saturday, and full-day trips on Monday, Thursday, and Friday,
departing Airlie Beach at 8:30am. A half-day trip is A$70 per person and a day trip
is A$125 per person. Two- and 6-day trips, during which you camp out, are A$365
and A$1,490. All rates include snorkel gear, meals, pickup, and, on overnight trips,
camping gear. The company also delivers sea kayaks anywhere in the Whitsundays.
Rental prices start at A$50 for a single kayak, A$80 for a double for a half-day,
including delivery, pickup, and safety equipment. A deposit of A$200 is required for
rentals.

Airlie Beach

640km (397 miles) S of Cairns; 1,146km (711 miles) N of Brisbane

The little town of Airlie Beach is the focal point of activity on the Whitsunday mainland.
The town is only a few blocks long, but you will find an adequate choice of
decent accommodations, a small selection of good restaurants and bars, a nice boutique
or two, and facilities such as banks and a supermarket. Cruises and yachts
depart from Shute Harbour, a 10-minute drive south on Shute Harbour Road, and
Abel Point Marina, a 10-minute walk west along the foreshore or a quick drive over
the hill on Shute Harbour Road.

Airlie Beach has a massive beachfront artificial lagoon, with sandy beaches and
landscaped parkland, which solves the problem of where to swim in stinger season.
The lagoon is the size of about six full-size Olympic swimming pools, set in 4 hectares
(10 acres) of botanic gardens, with a children’s pool, plenty of shade, barbecues,
picnic shelters, toilets, showers, and parking.

Perched on the edge of the Coral Sea, with views across Pioneer Bay and the
Whitsunday Passage, Airlie Beach has a village atmosphere; life revolves around the
beach and marina by day, and the bars and restaurants by night.

The spit of land between Airlie Bay and Boathaven Bay is home to the Airlie
Beach Sailing Club. Shute Harbour, 11km (73.4 miles) from Airlie Beach, is one of
Queensland’s busiest ports, filled with yachts, cruisers, water taxis, ferries, and fishermen.
For a bird’s-eye view, head to the Lions Lookout.

WHERE TO STAY
Airlie Beach Hotel In the heart of Airlie Beach, this large hotel complex offers
fairly standard accommodations but is ideal if you like to be in the thick of things.
The hotel straddles an entire block, giving it frontage on both the Esplanade and the
main street. Rooms are spacious and well appointed, with views over the inlet. There
are standard motel rooms, or newer hotel rooms and executive-style suites with
kitchens. My pick would be any of the rooms at the front, overlooking the Esplanade
and the inlet, which have small balconies.

16 The Esplanade (at Coconut Grove), Airlie Beach, QLD 4802. & 1800/466 233 in Australia, or
07/4964 1999. Fax 07/4964 1988. www.airliebeachhotel.com.au. 80 units. A$139 double standard motel
room; A$189–A$209 double hotel room; A$289 double suite. Extra person A$49 (children 14 and under
free using existing bedding). Crib free. AE, DC, MC, V. Free covered parking. Amenities: 3 restaurants;
3 bars; heated outdoor saltwater pool. In room: A/C, ceiling fans, TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (A$5 for
30 min.).

Coral Sea Resort


In Airlie Beach’s best location, on the edge of Paradise
Point, with 280-degree views of the ocean, this 7-year-old resort is one of the best
8
QUEENSLAND BARRIER

The Whitsunday Coast & Islands

335


QUEENSLAND & THE GREAT BARRIER REEF

The Whitsunday Coast & Islands

places to stay on the Whitsunday mainland. The wide range of great accommodations
styles suits everyone from honeymooners to families, and although it’s relatively
sprawling, the design is such that you can easily feel you’re alone. All the rooms have
a nautical feel. The Coral Sea suites are divine, complete with a Jacuzzi and double
hammock on the balcony. There are four styles of suites, apartments, and family
units. Bayview suites have a Jacuzzi inside. It’s a 3-minute walk along the waterfront
to Airlie Beach village.

25 Oceanview Ave., Airlie Beach, QLD 4802. & 1800/075 061 in Australia, or 07/4964 1300. Fax
07/4946 6516. www.coralsearesort.com.au. 78 units. A$240–A$380 double; A$330 double 1-bedroom
apt; A$350–A$400 2-bedroom apt; A$500 3-bedroom apt; A$400 1-bedroom penthouse; A$550
double 2-bedroom penthouse; A$700 double 3-bedroom penthouse. Extra person A$50. Crib A$15.

8

Ask about packages. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; babysitting; bikes; exercise
room; 25m (82-ft.) outdoor pool; room service; spa; watersports rental. In room: A/C, TV w/free
movies, hair dryer, Internet (A55. per min., max A$10 for 2 hr.; A$28 for 24 hr.), kitchenette, minibar.

Martinique Whitsunday Resort


Apartments in this French Caribbean–style
complex high on the hill above Airlie Beach have views that make the short but very
steep walk from the town well worthwhile. The one-, two-, and three-bedroom apartments
are roomy and light, and each has a big balcony. The infinity lap pool also
overlooks the Coral Sea and is surrounded by tropical gardens and waterfalls. There’s
a barbecue area, and you can also order kitchen supplies to be ready when you
arrive. Apartments are serviced weekly, and each has a washing machine and dryer.
18 Golden Orchid Dr. (off Shute Harbour Rd.), Airlie Beach, QLD 4802. &1800/251 166 in Australia or
07/4948 0401. Fax 07/4948 0402. www.martiniquewhitsunday.com.au. 20 units. A$210 double 1-bedroom
apt; A$300 2-bedroom apt for 4 people; A$375 3-bedroom apt for up to 6. Minimum 2-night stay.
Extra person A$30. Crib A$10. AE, DC, MC, V. Free covered parking. Amenities: Exercise room; 2
Jacuzzis; outdoor lap pool. In room: A/C, ceiling fans, TV, hair dryer, kitchen, minibar.

WHERE TO DINE
Mangrove Jack’s Cafe Bar PIZZA/CAFE FARE Bareboat sailors, local sugar
farmers, Sydney yuppies, and European backpackers all flock to this big, openfronted
sports bar and restaurant. The mood is upbeat and pleasantly casual, the
surroundings are spick-and-span, and the food passes muster. Wood-fired pizzas
with trendy toppings are the specialty. There is no table service; place your order at
the bar and collect your food when your number is called. There are kids’ meals, and
more than 35 wines come by the glass.

In the Airlie Beach Hotel, 16 The Esplanade (enter from Shute Harbour Rd.). &07/4964 1888. Reservations
recommended. Main courses A$22–A$28. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 11:30am–2:30pm and 5:30–
9:30pm (10pm on Fri); Sat 11:30am–9:30pm.

The Whitsunday Island Resorts

There are about 10 resorts of varying degrees of splendor; accommodations range
from positively plush to comfortably midrange to downright old-fashioned.

VERY EXPENSIVE
Daydream Island Resort



One of the Whitsundays’ oldest resorts is now
one of Australia’s most extensive and modern spa resorts. Daydream Island has a
mixed clientele consisting of families and those seeking pampering and luxury. Features
such as the outdoor cinema and kids’ club have always made it popular with
families, but the 16 therapy rooms at the Rejuvenation Spa appeal to those who are


seeking one of the most sophisticated and well-equipped health resorts in Australia.
The state-of-the-art spa has an in-house naturopath and a range of computerized
health analyses using equipment and tests usually found only in clinics in Europe
and the United States, such as iridology and measurement of vitamin and mineral
imbalances and antioxidant levels. Rooms are large, smart, and comfortable, with
uninterrupted ocean views. The “village” at the southern end of the island, a short
stroll along the boardwalk from the resort, has shops, cafes, a pool and bar, and a
tavern serving bistro-style meals. A rainforest walk stretches almost the entire length
of the kilometer-long (just over half a mile) island; other activities include snorkeling,
sailboarding, jet-skiing, parasailing, coral viewing, reef fishing, diving and dive
school, tennis, volleyball, and minigolf.

Daydream Island (40km/25 miles northeast of Shute Harbour), Whitsunday Islands (P.M.B. 22), Mackay,
QLD 4741. & 1800/075 040 in Australia or 07/4948 8488. www.daydreamisland.com. 296 units.
A$278–A$464 double; A$734–A$834 suite. Children 14 and under stay free in parent’s room with existing
bedding. Ask about packages. Minimum 3-night stay. AE, MC, V. Cruise Whitsundays (&07/4946
4662) provides launch transfers from Abel Point Marina and Hamilton Island Airport to Daydream for
A$59 adults and A$37 children. Amenities: 3 restaurants, 3 bars; 3 Jacuzzis; 3 freshwater outdoor pools
(1 heated); 2 lit tennis courts; watersports. In room: A/C, TV w/pay movies, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi.

Hamilton Island


More a vacation village than a single resort, Hamilton
has the widest range of activities, accommodations styles, and restaurants of any
Great Barrier Reef island resort. The poshest part of the resort is the ultraluxe qualia,
an exclusive, adults-only retreat area on the northern part of the island, away
from the mere mortals at the other end. Here you will stay in one of 60 one-bedroom
pavilions, with hand-crafted furniture and high thread-counts on your sheets. Each
has a private swimming pool and a guest pavilion. There’s a spa and two restaurants,
and none of these facilities are available to other Hamilton Island guests.

If qualia is out of your league, the other accommodations choices are extra large
rooms and suites in the high-rise hotel; high-rise one-bedroom apartments; Polynesian-
style bungalows in tropical gardens (ask for one away from the road for real
privacy); and still glamorous rooms in the two-story, adults-only Beach Club (with
minimalist decor, a personal “host” to cater to every whim, and private restaurant,
lounge, and pool for exclusive use of Beach Club guests); as well as one-, two-,
three-, and four-bedroom apartments and villas. The best sea views are from the
second-floor Beach Club rooms, from floors 5 to 18 of the Reef View Hotel, and
from most apartments and villas. The hotel and Beach Club have concierge service.
In-room amenities vary depending on your accommodations choice (for example,
apartments have kitchens), so check when booking.

On one side of the island is a marina village with cafes, restaurants, shops, and a
yacht club. On the other are the accommodations, a large free-form pool and swimup
bar, and the curve of Catseye Beach. Hamilton offers a huge range of watersports,
fishing trips, cruises, speedboat rides, go-karts, a “wire flyer” flying-fox hang
glider, a shooting range, where you can practice target or clay-pigeon shooting,
minigolf, an aquatic driving range, beach barbecue safaris, hiking trails, a wildlife
sanctuary, where you can cuddle a koala or hold a baby crocodile, and an extensive
daily activities program. Because a steep hill splits the resort, the best way to get
around is on the free bus service, which operates on three loops around the island
from 7am to 11pm, or by rented golf buggy. To get away from the main resort area,
hit the beach or the hiking trails—most of the 750-hectare (1,853-acre) island is

8
QUEENSLAND BARRIER

The Whitsunday Coast & Islands

337


QUEENSLAND & THE GREAT BARRIER REEF

The Whitsunday Coast & Islands

virgin bushland. The biggest drawback is that just about every activity costs extra
(and it’s usually not cheap), so you are constantly adding to your bill.

Hamilton Island (16km/10 miles southeast of Shute Harbour), Whitsunday Islands, QLD 4803. &13 73
33 in Australia, 02/9433 3333 (Sydney reservations office), or 07/4946 9999 (the island). Fax 02/9433
0488 (Sydney reservations office), or 07/4946 8888 (the island). www.hamiltonisland.com.au or www.
qualiaresort.com.au. 880 units, some with shower only. A$324 Palm Bungalow; A$350–A$422 hotel
double; A$642–A$1,168 hotel suite; A$595 Beach Club double; A$360–A$443 Whitsunday Holiday
Apartments; A$1,450–A$2,125 qualia; A$3,500–A$3,995 qualia house. Rates at qualia include all meals.
Ask about packages and special deals. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 12 restaurants, 7 bars; babysitting;
child-care center for kids from 6 weeks to 14 years (in 3 groups); minigolf and driving range; health club;
7 outdoor pools; room service; lit tennis courts. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, Internet (hotel rooms only;
A$5 for 30 min., A$15 for 24 hr.), minibar.

8

Hayman


This is the most luxurious, glitzy, and glamorous resort in Australia.
Check-in is done over a glass of bubbly aboard the resort’s sleek launch, which
meets you at Hamilton Island Airport. On arrival, you won’t take long to find your
way through the open-air sandstone lanais, cascading ponds, and tropical foliage to
the fabulous hexagonal complex of swimming pools by the sea. Despite the luxury,
Hayman is relaxed. Dress is beachwear by day, smart casual at night (pack something
elegant for dinner, if you wish). An impressive lineup of activities is available,
and it’s probably fair to say the staff at Hayman can organize almost anything you
desire.

While Hayman is renowned for the antiques, artworks, and fine objets d’art gracing
its public areas, the accommodations are welcoming. Every room, suite, villa,
and penthouse has a balcony or terrace, bathrobes, and valet service (and butler
service in the penthouses). Retreat rooms each have a private veranda, open patios,
and outdoor rinse showers. For even greater privacy, the Beach Villa has a private
Balinese-style courtyard, walled gardens, a private infinity plunge pool, and personalized
concierge service. Spa Chakra Hayman has 13 treatment rooms, a meditation
suite, a hydrotherapy area, saunas, and steam rooms.

Hayman Island (33km/20 miles from Shute Harbour), Great Barrier Reef, QLD 4801. &1800/075 175
in Australia, or 07/4940 1234 (the island). Fax 07/4940 1858 (reservations) or 07/4940 1567 (the island).
www.hayman.com.au. 212 units. A$595–A$1,500 double; A$2,140–A$2,550 suite; A$2,800–A$5,100
penthouse; A$3,700–A$4,100 Beach Villa. Extra person A$182. 2-night minimum and 10% surcharge
over Christmas/New Year. Ask about packages. AE, DC, MC, V. Resort launch meets all flights at Hamilton
Island Airport for the 55-min. transfer, which costs A$155 adults, half price for children. Helicopter
and seaplane transfers available. Amenities: 4 restaurants, 2 bars; babysitting; daily kids’ club (ages
5–14), day care for younger kids; concierge; beachside 9-hole golf putting green; extensive health club;
outdoor Jacuzzi; 3 pools (1 saltwater, 2 heated freshwater); spa; 5 lit tennis courts (w/ball machine and
coaching); watersports and dive room service. In room: A/C, TV w/free and pay movies, DVD player (on
request), CD player, hair dryer, minibar, free Wi-Fi.

Paradise Bay Eco Escape


No glass in your windows, no locks on your
doors, no telephone in your room. And you don’t need any of them. This environmentally
sensitive lodge was designed to show off the Whitsundays’ natural beauty
with minimal impact on it. Tucked in a cove under towering hoop pines and palms,
it appeals to people who want to explore the wilderness in comfort, without the
crowds, noisy watersports, or artificial atmosphere of a resort. Wildlife abounds,
including wallabies and abundant birdlife. No ferries or cruise boats stop here and
the lodge is inaccessible to day-trippers. A maximum of 16 guests stay in eight smart
cabins—refurbished in August 2007—each with a modern bathroom and private


deck facing the sea. On your walls hang Aboriginal art from owner Peter Spann’s
private collection, including some of Australia’s top indigenous painters. Solar power
rules, so there are no TVs, hair dryers, irons, air-conditioning, or mobile phone
reception (there is one public phone). Social life centers on an open-sided gazebo
and deck by the beach, equipped with a natural-history library and CDs, where
everyone dines together. Access is only by a short but stunning helicopter flight from
Hamilton Island.

Excursions include sailing on the lodge’s gleaming 10m (33-ft.) catamaran, sea
kayaking the mangroves to spot giant green sea turtles (which are common around
the lodge), snorkeling the fringing reef on uninhabited islands, or bushwalking to a
magical milkwood grove. Or you may prefer to just laze in a hammock or head off
with a sea kayak and snorkel gear. A half-day helicopter tour to the Outer Reef is
available for an extra A$698 per person. This tour is exclusively for lodge guests; you
will be flown to Fantasea’s Reefworld pontoon in the early morning before the boat
loads of tourists arrive. This is an exclusive experience not available to the general
public. Guests can spend 11. hours snorkeling the spectacular coral and fish sur


2

rounding the pontoon, or can dive for an extra A$80.

Paradise Bay, Long Island (16km/10 miles southeast of Shute Harbour), Whitsunday Islands (P.O. Box
842), Airlie Beach, QLD 4802. &07/4946 9777. Fax 07/4946 9777. www.paradisebay.com.au. 8 units,
all with shower only. A$1,798–A$2,390 per person for a minimum 3–night stay, depending on the season.
A$498–A$698 per person extra nights. No single supplement. Rates include all meals, helicopter
transfers from Hamilton Island Airport, daily excursions, and equipment. MC, V. Children 14 and under
not accepted. Amenities: Restaurant; bar. In room: No phone.

Peppers Palm Bay


This is a private and romantic hideaway, with no phone,
radio or television in the rooms . . . but there is a hammock on every veranda. The
beachfront bures (a kind of hut common in Polynesia) have a glamorous Balinese
style, and the dining and bar area overlooks the gorgeous pool area, which is surrounded
by timber decking. The luxury Platinum House, with two bedrooms, is on
the hill behind the bures. Each bedroom has its own private entry and bathroom, and
features a separate lounge with large plasma TVs and stereo. A wide wraparound
deck has views of the Whitsunday Passage. For those who want to be active, there
are nonmotorized watersports, such as kayaking, available, or you can just head to
the spa. No children under 14.
Palm Bay, Long Island (16km/10 miles southeast of Shute Harbour), Whitsunday Islands (P.M.B. 28),
Mackay, QLD 4741. &1800/095 025 in Australia, or 07/4946 9233. Fax 07/4946 9309. www.peppers.
com.au. 25 units. A$460 double cabin; A$660 double bure; A$780 1-bedroom bungalow; A$1,125
double Platinum House. Rates include breakfast. Ask about packages. AE, DC, MC, V. Cruise Whitsundays
(&07/4946 4662) provides launch transfers from Hamilton Island Airport and Airlie Beach. No
children under 14. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; Jacuzzi; outdoor pool; spa; lit tennis court; watersports.
In room: A/C, DVD and CD players (suites only), hair dryer, minibar, no phone.

MODERATE
Hook Island Wilderness Resort This humble collection of cabins and campsites
on a white sandy beach is one of the few really affordable island resorts on the
Great Barrier Reef. That makes it popular with backpackers and anybody who just
wants to kayak, play beach volleyball, visit the underwater observatory, hike, fish,
laze in the pool and Jacuzzi, or chill out. Good snorkeling is footsteps from shore
(gear available from reception). Hook is a national park and the second-largest Whitsunday
island. The cabins are very basic, with beds or bunks sleeping six or eight.

8
QUEENSLAND BARRIER

The Whitsunday Coast & Islands

339


QUEENSLAND & THE GREAT BARRIER REEF

The Capricorn Coast

All come with fresh bed linens; bring your own bath towels. A store sells essentials
for campers, who can use the camp kitchen for A$10 per day (not available to guests
staying in cabins or bunkhouses). There is a beach bar and bistro open for breakfast,
lunch, and dinner.

Hook Island (40km/25 miles northeast of Shute Harbour), Whitsunday Islands (P.M.B. 23), Mackay, QLD
4741. &1800 812 626 in Australia or 07/4946 9380. Fax 07/4946 9470. www.hookislandresort.com. 20
tent sites, 6 10-bed dormitories, 8 cabins (4 with bathroom, shower only). A$120 cabin without bathroom
double; extra adult A$60, extra child 4–16 A$25. A$150 cabin with bathroom double; extra adult
A$75, extra child A$25. Dorm bed A$35 per person. Tent site A$20 per adult, A$10 per child. MC, V.
Transfers from mainland A$40 adults, A$30 children 4-16 one-way. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; Jacuzzi;
outdoor pool; watersports equipment. In room: A/C.

8

THE CAPRICORN COAST

South of the Whitsundays, the Bruce Highway travels through rural country until it
hits the beaches of the Sunshine Coast north of Brisbane. It may not be the tourism
heartland of the state, but there’s plenty to discover. The most spectacular of the
Great Barrier Reef islands, Heron Island, is off the coast from Gladstone. Heron’s
reefs are a source of enchantment for divers and snorkelers; its waters boast 21 dive
sites. In summer, giant turtles nest on its beaches, and in winter humpback whales
cruise by.

North of Gladstone are Rockhampton and the Capricorn Coast, named after the
tropic of Capricorn that runs through it. Rockhampton is also a stepping stone to the
resort island of Great Keppel. The reefs and islands off Rockhampton are not a commonly
visited part of the Great Barrier Reef, yet they offer some good dive sites,
most of them not far out to sea. To the south, off the small town of Bundaberg, lies
another tiny coral cay, Lady Elliot Island, which is a nesting site for tens of thousands
of seabirds and has a first-rate fringing reef. Two little-known attractions in
Bundaberg are its good shore scuba diving and a loggerhead turtle rookery that operates
in summer on the beach. Farther south lies the world’s largest sand island, the
World Heritage–listed Fraser Island, which can be negotiated only on foot or by
four-wheel-drive (see p. 349).

Rockhampton: The Beef Capital

1,055km (654 miles) S of Cairns; 638km (396 miles) N of Brisbane

You may hear Queenslanders talk dryly about “Rockvegas.” Don’t be fooled. “Rocky”
is the unofficial capital of the sprawling beef-cattle country that lies inland and the
gateway to Great Keppel Island, which boasts some of the few inexpensive island
retreats in Queensland—but it bears no resemblance to Las Vegas. Heritage buildings
line the Fitzroy River, where barramundi await keen fishermen. Turn up on
Friday nights at 7pm at the Great Western Hotel, Stanley and Denison streets
(&07/4922 3888; www.greatwesternhotel.com.au), to see local cowboys practice
their bull-riding skills in the rodeo ring. It’s free.

ESSENTIALS
GETTING THERE Rockhampton is on the Bruce Highway, a 31.2-hour drive
south of Mackay, and about 90 minutes north of Gladstone.

QantasLink (&13 13 13 in Australia) has flights from Brisbane and Gladstone.
Virgin Blue (& 13 67 89 in Australia) flies direct from Brisbane, Townsville, and


Sydney. Jetstar (&13 15 38 in Australia) flies from Mackay, and new budget carrier
Tiger Airways (&03/9335 3033; www.tigerairways.com) flies from Melbourne.

Queensland Rail (&1300 131 722 in Queensland; www.traveltrain.com.au)
trains stop at Rockhampton daily. The trip from Brisbane takes just 7 hours on the
high-speed Tilt Train; the fare is A$105 in economy class and A$154 in business
class.

Greyhound Australia (& 1300/473 946 in Australia or 07/4920 3900 in
Rockhampton) serves Rockhampton on its many daily runs between Brisbane and
Cairns. The fare is A$131 from Brisbane (trip time: 12 hr.) and A$202 from Cairns
(trip time: 18 hr.).

VISITOR INFORMATION Drop by the Capricorn Tourism information center,
at the city’s southern entrance on Gladstone Road (Bruce Highway) at the
Capricorn Spire (& 1800/676 701 in Australia, or 07/4927 2055; www.capricorn
tourism.com.au). It’s open daily from 9am to 5pm. In the city center, you’ll find the
Rockhampton Customs House Tourist Information Centre at 208 Quay St.
(&07/4922 5625; www.capricornholidays.com.au). It’s open weekdays 8:30am to
4:30pm, weekends and public holidays 9am to 4pm.

GETTING AROUND Avis (& 07/4927 3344), Budget (& 07/4922 8064),
Europcar (&07/4922 0044), Hertz (&07/4922 2721), and Thrifty (&07/4927
8755) have offices in Rockhampton. The local bus is Sunbus (&07/4936 2133).

EXPLORING: CAVERNS, ABORIGINAL CULTURE & MORE

The Capricorn Caves


(&07/4934 2883; wwwcapricorncaves.com.au), 23km
(14 miles) north of Rockhampton at Olsen’s Caves Road, off the Bruce Highway,
have been a popular attraction in this part of the world ever since Norwegian pioneer
John Olsen stumbled upon them in 1882. The limestone caves originated in an
ancient (380-million-year-old) coral reef and today are a maze of small tunnels and
larger chambers. The 1-hour tour, which winds through large caverns with stalactite
and stalagmite formations before entering the 20m-high (66-ft.) Cathedral Cave, is
A$22 for adults, A$11 for children 5 to 15. It departs daily (except Christmas and
New Year’s Day) on the hour from 9am to 4pm (closing time is 5pm). Spelunkers
over age 16 can squeeze through tunnels and chimneys and rock climb on a 2-hour
adventure tour that costs A$60; minimum of two required. Book 24 hours ahead for
this. In December and early January, the only time of year when the sun is directly
over the tropic of Capricorn, a ray of pure light pours through a hole in the limestone
caves. This is known as the Summer Solstice phenomenon and tours departing every
morning at 11am highlight it. The caves are also home to thousands of small insectivorous
bats, which leave the cave at sunset to feed. Plan enough time here to walk
the 30-minute dry rainforest trail, watch the video on bats in the interpretive center,
and feed the wild kangaroos. If you want to stay, there are cabins, a motor-home
park, and a campground.
The Dreamtime Cultural Centre (&07/4936 1655; www.dreamtimecentre.
com.au), on the Bruce Highway opposite the Yeppoon turnoff, 6km (33.4 miles) north
of town, showcases Aboriginal culture. There’s a sandstone cave replica, a display on
the dugong (manatee) culture of the Torres Strait Islanders, and an Aboriginal crafts
shop. The center is open Monday to Friday from 10am to 3:30pm. Admission,
including a tour, is A$14 for adults, A$6.50 for children, and A$11 for students and

8
QUEENSLAND BARRIER

The Capricorn Coast

341


QUEENSLAND & THE GREAT BARRIER REEF

The Capricorn Coast

backpackers. Tours of burial sites and rock art, with didgeridoo demonstrations and
boomerang-throwing, start at 10:30am.

Rockhampton has two free public botanic gardens, both nice for a stroll and a
picnic. The Kershaw Gardens, which display Aussie rainforest, wetland, and fragrant
plants from north of the 30th parallel, also have a monorail and a pioneer-style
slab hut where Devonshire teas are served. Enter off Charles Street. The Rockhampton
Botanic Gardens (& 07/4922 1654), established in 1869, are quite
lovely. They have an impressive collection of large palm trees, cycads, heliconias,
and giant banyan fig trees. Admission is free to the small zoo inside the grounds,
which features ’roos, koalas, lorikeets, cassowaries, and a range of other creatures,

8
including—rather bizarrely—some rather sad-looking chimpanzees. The gardens are
open 6am to 6pm daily, the zoo daily from 8am to 5pm. Enter off Ann Street or
Spencer Street.

WHERE TO STAY
Rydges Capricorn Resort



The 20km (13 miles) of unbroken beach that
fronts this resort—and the fact that it is the only resort of any size or style in this
region—are reasons enough to visit. The resort is about 9km (51.2 miles) from the
pretty seaside town of Yeppoon, about 45km (28 miles) north of Rockhampton Airport.
Open since 1986, and now showing its age a little, the resort is nevertheless
cheerful and pleasant, and the rooms are spacious. The best of the three accommodations
blocks is the Palms, with views over the beach and out to Great Keppel
Island. The main resort block is dominated by one of the largest freshwater swimming
pools in the Southern Hemisphere, popular with visiting local families, especially
on weekends. Accommodations vary: Some suites and all apartments have
kitchenettes, hotel rooms have minibars, and two-bedroom apartments and Capricorn
suites with kitchens have a washing machine and dryer. Set in 8,910 hectares
(22,000 acres) of bushland, the resort also has extensive wetlands teeming with bird
life. Wetlands tours are available for a fee, as are horseback riding, land yachting,
fishing, canoeing, clay-pigeon shooting, WaveRunners, and rifle shooting. This is not
the place for a quiet getaway—it is popular with large and sometimes noisy conference
groups—but there are lots of activities, and it may be just the place to break
up your coastal trek.
Farnborough Rd. (P.O. Box 350), Yeppoon, QLD 4703. &1800/075 902 in Australia, or 07/4925 2525.
www.rydges.com/capricorn. 281 units. A$320 double; A$370 junior suite; A$395 junior suite with kitchenette;
A$445 Capricorn Suite; A$470 Capricorn Suite with kitchenette; A$440 1-bedroom apt; A$490
2-bedroom apt. Extra person A$40. Free crib. Packages, including golf packages, available year-round.
Rates include watersports and some other activities. AE, DC, MC, V. Free covered parking. Amenities:
4 restaurants; 2 bars; airport and train station transfers (A$20 adults, A$10 child 2–12); babysitting;
bikes; free daytime kids’ club (fee for evening sessions); concierge; 2 18-hole golf courses; exercise
room; outdoor Jacuzzi; outdoor freshwater pool w/adjoining heated beach-style pool; room service;
sauna; 4 lit tennis courts; extensive watersports. In room: A/C, TV w/pay movies, hair dryer, Internet
(A$11 for 1 hr.; A$22 for 24 hr.).

Great Keppel Island

15km (91.2 miles) E of Rockhampton

This 1,454-hectare (3,591-acre) island is home to 17 beaches, all accessible by walking
trails or dinghy (which you can rent). The shallow waters and fringing reef make
the island a good choice for beginner divers; experienced divers will see corals, sea


snakes, turtles, and rays. If you stay overnight, you will most likely be rewarded with
one of the spectacular sunsets for which the island is famous.

GETTING THERE Freedom Fast Cats (&07/4933 6888; www.freedomfast
cats.com) operates launches that make the 30-minute crossing from Rosslyn Bay
Harbour, about 55km (34 miles) east of Rockhampton. The round-trip costs A$49
for adults, A$41 seniors and students, A$29 for children 4 to 14, and A$127 for
families of four. A water taxi will cost around A$60.

From Rockhampton, take the Capricorn Coast scenic drive Route 10 to Emu Park
and follow the signs to Rosslyn Bay Harbour. If you’re coming to Rockhampton from
the north, the scenic drive turnoff is just north of the city, and from there it’s 46km
(29 miles) to the harbor. You can leave your car in covered storage at Great Keppel
Island Security Car Park, 422 Scenic Hwy., near the harbor (&07/4933 6670),
for around A$10 per day.

The most flexible option for getting to Rosslyn Bay Harbour by bus is with Little
Johnny’s Tours Shuttle Service (& 0414 793 637 mobile; littlejohnnystours@
bigpond.com), which provides pickups to and from Rockhampton Airport and accommodations
in Rockhampton and Yeppoon and will transfer you direct to the ferry
terminal. It costs A$75 for up to four people, and A$20 for each extra person, and for
an extra A$30 will stop for up to an hour so you can pick up supplies for the island.

Peace Aviation (& 07/4927 4355; www.peaceaviation.com) connects with
incoming flights to Rockhampton Airport to transfer to the island. It is a 20-minute
flight daily except Sundays and costs A$275 one-way for up to three passengers, or
A$385 for four or five.

VISITOR INFORMATION Pick up information about accommodations and
activities on Great Keppel at the Capricorn Tourism information center (at the
Capricorn Spire), on Gladstone Road, Rockhampton (&1800/676 701 in Australia,
or 07/4927 2055; www.capricornholidays.com.au). It’s open daily from 9am to 5pm.
You will also find some information at the ferry terminal at Rosslyn Bay Harbour.

WHERE TO STAY

Great Keppel Island Resort, the island’s major resort for more than 30 years, closed
its doors in early 2008 for a complete rebuild, and at press time for this book was
still grappling with the Australian government’s decision that the proposed project
was unacceptable because of the environmental impact it would have on the Great
Barrier Reef. Some locals believe it may never happen and the resort sits abandoned.
Meanwhile, visitors can stay at a couple of smaller, family-oriented budget resorts
on what has become a less-populated and more peaceful island.

Great Keppel Island Holiday Village


Great Keppel Island Holiday Village
is located in a garden setting less than a minute’s walk to two great swimming
beaches. Accommodations include twin or double rooms with shared bathrooms,
twin or double canvas tents erected on timber decks, and en-suite cabins, sleeping
four. Also available are two self-contained houses suitable for families of up to six
people. The private two-bedroom Dolphin House has a queen-size bed in one room
and a double bed and bunks in the other. The two-story, solar powered Keppel
House is set among large shade trees on the southern end of Fisherman’s Beach, and
sleeps up to six. Verandas off the spacious lounge room offer plenty of shade,
and there is a barbecue outside. All linen is provided (but bring your towel), as is
8
QUEENSLAND BARRIER

The Capricorn Coast

343


QUEENSLAND & THE GREAT BARRIER REEF

The Capricorn Coast

snorkeling gear to use during your stay. There is a fully equipped communal kitchen
for those in the tents and cabins, with gas stoves, refrigerators, and microwave available,
as well as a barbecue. Basic grocery items, such as milk, bread, soft drinks, and
some food items, are available to buy. Kayaking and snorkeling tours are offered.
There is no smoking in the village area.

Great Keppel Island, off Rockhampton, QLD 4700. &1800/180 235 in Australia, or 07/4939 8655.
www.gkiholidayvillage.com.au. 19 units. A$85 tent or room per person twin/double, A$65 single; A$140
cabin (all with bathroom, shower only) double; A$180–A$240 houses for 5 to 6 people. A$20 extra
person. 2 night min. stay; 5 night min. for houses. MC, V. Amenities: Watersports rentals. In room: Ceiling
fan, TV (houses only).

8 Gladstone: Gateway to Heron Island

550km (341 miles) N of Brisbane; 1,162km (720 miles) S of Cairns

The industrial port town of Gladstone is the departure point for beautiful Heron
Island. About 25km (16 miles) south of the town (but off the Bruce Hwy.) are the
twin beach towns of Boyne Island and Tannum Sands, which are worth the detour.

ESSENTIALS
GETTING THERE & GETTING AROUND Gladstone is on the coast 21km
(13 miles) off the Bruce Highway. QantasLink (book through Qantas) has daily
flights from Brisbane, Rockhampton, and Bundaberg.

Queensland Rail (& 1300/131 722 in Queensland; www.traveltrain.com.au)
operates trains to Gladstone from Brisbane and Cairns most days. The economy fare
on the high-speed Tilt Train from Brisbane (trip time: 6 hr.) is A$97; from Cairns
(trip time: 18 hr.) it is A$265. Fares from Cairns on the Sunlander (trip time: 20 hr.)
range from A$177 for a seat to A$700 for a sleeper in the luxury Queenslander
Class.

Greyhound Australia (& 1300/473 946 in Australia; www.greyhound.com.

au) operates daily coaches to Gladstone on the Brisbane-Cairns run. The fare is

A$123 from Brisbane (trip time: 10 hr.), A$220 from Cairns (trip time: 20 hr.).

Avis (& 07/4978 2633), Budget (& 07/4972 8488), Hertz (& 07/4978
6899), and Thrifty (&07/4972 5999) have offices in Gladstone.

VISITOR INFORMATION The Gladstone Visitor Information Centre is in
the ferry terminal at Gladstone Marina, Bryan Jordan Drive, Gladstone, QLD 4680
(& 07/4972 9000; www.gladstoneholidays.info). It’s open from 8:30am to 5pm
Monday through Friday, and from 9am to 5pm Saturday and Sunday. Closed Christmas
Day.

WHERE TO STAY
Rydges Gladstone This four-level hotel in the center of town is Gladstone’s
largest and best hotel. It has a large business clientele, so there are ample facilities—
spacious rooms with balconies, modern bathrooms, an upscale restaurant, and
a pool and sun deck. Most rooms have views over the port or the city, and all harbor
view rooms were refurbished (including brand new beds) in 2009. Executive rooms
have a kitchenette.

100 Goondoon St., Gladstone, QLD 4680. & 1300/857 922 in Australia or 07/4970 0000. Fax 07/4972
4921. www.rydges.com/gladstone. 95 units. A$200–A$240 double. AE, DC, MC, V. Free covered parking.
Amenities: Restaurant; bar; outdoor pool; room service. In room: A/C, TV w/free movies, hair dryer,
free Internet, minibar.


Heron Island: Jewel of the Reef


72km (45 miles) NE of Gladstone

The difference between Heron and other islands is that once there, you have no
need to travel farther to the Reef. Step off the beach and you enter magnificent
fields of coral that seem to stretch for miles. And the myriad life forms that abound
here are accessible to everyone through diving, snorkeling, or reef walks at low tide,
or aboard a semisubmersible vessel that allows you to view the ocean floor without
getting wet.

There has been a resort on Heron since 1932, and in 1943 the island became a
national park. It is a haven for wildlife and people, and an experience of a lifetime
is almost guaranteed at any time of year, particularly if you love turtles—Heron is a
rookery for giant green and loggerhead turtles. (When geologist Joseph Bette Jukes
named this piece of paradise in 1843, he overlooked the turtles for which it is now
famous in favor of the reef herons that abounded.) Resort guests gather on the beach
from late November to February to watch the female turtles lay eggs, and from
February to mid-April to see the hatched babies scuttle down the sand to the water.
Humpback whales also pass through from June through September.

Three days on Heron will give you plenty of time to see everything. The island is
so small that you can walk around it at a leisurely pace in about half an hour. One
of the first things to do is to take advantage of the organized activities that operate
several times a day and are designed so guests can plan their own days. Snorkeling
and reef walking are major occupations for visitors—if they’re not diving, that is. The
island is home to 21 of the world’s most stunning dive sites.

Guided walks provide another way to explore the island. Walks include a visit to
the island’s research station. As for the reef walk, just borrow a pair of sand shoes, a
balance pole, and a viewing bucket, and head off with a guide at low tide. The walk
can take up to 90 minutes, but there’s no compulsion to stay; if it gets too hot, you
can head to the sanctuary of your room or the shady bar area.

A fishing trip should also be on the agenda, even for the most inexperienced. The
reef fish seem to just jump onto the hook, and the resort chef is happy to cook them
for you for dinner!

GETTING THERE A courtesy coach meets flights from Brisbane (with connections
from other cities) at Gladstone airport at 10am to take guests to Gladstone
Marina for the launch transfer to the island; it departs 11am daily (except Dec 25).
Transfers aboard a sleek 130-seater catamaran cost A$120 each way for adults, halfprice
for kids 3 to 14. Trip time is around 2 hours. Helicopter transfers can be
arranged for A$275 per person each way.

WHERE TO STAY ON HERON ISLAND
Heron Island Resort


This lovely, low-key resort has been transformed
over the past few years. The newest rooms are the chic Wistari suites, each with a
private garden and veranda. But the focus here is still very much on the outdoors.
The brilliant colors of the island’s surrounding water and Reef are reflected in the
interiors, and everything is light-filled and breezy. Heron’s central complex is equal
parts grand Queenslander home and sophisticated beach house, with smart bar and
lounge areas open to ocean views and sunsets. Duplex-style Turtle rooms are
designed for couples or families, with a casual living area and a veranda, or you can
go for greater luxury in the suites or the private beach house.

8
QUEENSLAND BARRIER

The Capricorn Coast

345


The property has a lounge with a TV, public phones (only the four Point suites and
the Beach House have private phones). Dial-up Internet access is available at reception.
The Aqua Soul Spa offers double treatment rooms, therapies designed for two,
and the usual spa treatments and pampering. The spa complex is in a secluded spot
on the edge of the island’s Pisonia forests, removed from the main resort.

Heron Island, off Gladstone, QLD 4680. &1300/233 432 in Australia, or 03/9413 6288 (reservations
office), or 07/4972 9055 (resort). www.heronisland.com. 109 units, some with shower only. A$398–
A$438 Turtle Room double; A$472–A$518 Reef Room double; A$632–A$696 Beachside Suite double;
A$882–A$970 Point Suite or Wistari Suite; A$920–A$998 Beach House double. Extra adult A$64.
Children 11 and under stay free in parent’s room. Free crib. Rates include breakfast and some activities.
Meal packages are available for A$69 per person per night. Ask about special packages. AE, DC, MC, V.

8
No children allowed in Point and Wistari suites or Beach House. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; babysitting;
children’s program (ages 7–12) during Australian school vacations; Internet; Jacuzzi; outdoor pool;
spa; 2 lit tennis courts; limited watersports equipment rental. In room: A/C (beach house only and
Wistari suite only), ceiling fan, CD player (beach house and suites only), hair dryer, minibar (beach
house and suites only).

Bundaberg: Gateway to Lady Elliot Island

384km (238 miles) N of Brisbane; 1,439km (892 miles) S of Cairns

The small sugar town of Bundaberg is the closest to the southernmost point of the
Great Barrier Reef. If you visit the area between November and March, allow an
evening to visit the Mon Repos Turtle Rookery. Divers may want to take in some of
Australia’s best shore diving right off Bundaberg’s beaches.

GETTING THERE & GETTING AROUND Bundaberg is on the Isis Highway,
about 50km (31 miles) off the Bruce Highway from Gin Gin in the north and 53km
(33 miles) off the Bruce Highway from just north of Childers in the south.

QantasLink (&13 13 13 in Australia) flies from Brisbane daily and from Gladstone
three times a week.

Queensland Rail (& 1300 131 722 in Queensland; www.traveltrain.com.au)
trains stop in Bundaberg every day en route between Brisbane and Cairns. The fare
is A$66 from Brisbane in economy class or A$98 business class on the Tilt Train;
fares range from A$124 for a seat to A$190 for a sleeping berth on the Sunlander from
Cairns. The trip takes 41.2 hours from Brisbane and 81.4 hours from Cairns on the Tilt
Train; the Sunlander takes 63.4 hours from Brisbane and 25 hours from Cairns.

Greyhound Australia (& 1300/473 946 in Australia) stops here many times

a day on runs between Brisbane and Cairns. The 7-hour trip from Brisbane costs

A$90. From Cairns it is a 22-hour trip, and the fare is A$246.

Avis (& 07/4152 1877), Budget (& 07/4151 1355), Europcar (& 07/4155

0333), Hertz (&07/4155 0884), and Thrifty (&07/4151 6222) all have offices in

Bundaberg.

VISITOR INFORMATION The Bundaberg Tourism Visitor Information
Centre, at 271 Bourbong St., Bundaberg West, QLD 4670 (&1300/722 099 in
Australia, or 07/4153 8888; www.bundabergregion.org) is open daily 9am to 5pm,
public holidays (except Good Friday and Christmas Day) 10am to 3pm.

WHAT TO SEE & DO

The best shore diving in Queensland is in Bundaberg’s Woongarra Marine Park.
It has soft and hard corals, urchins, rays, sea snakes, and 60 fish species, plus a World
War II Beaufort bomber wreck. There are several scuba operators. Dive Musgrave
(& 1800/552 614 in Australia or 07/4154 3900; www.divemusgrave.com.au) runs

346

QUEENSLAND & THE GREAT BARRIER REEF

The Capricorn Coast


QUEENSLAND BARRIER The Capricorn Coast
UP CLOSE & PERSONAL WITH A turtle
The egg in my hand is warm, soft, and
about the size of a Ping-Pong ball. At
my feet, a giant green turtle sighs
deeply as she lays a clutch of about 120
eggs in a pear-shaped chamber dug
from the sand. A large tear rolls from
her eye. In the distance, the wedge-
tailed shearwaters call eerily to each
other, backed by the sound of the
ocean.
The egg-laying ritual of the turtles is
central to a trip to Heron Island in the
summer months. At night and in the
early morning, small groups of people
gather on the beaches to witness the
turtles lumber up the beach, dig holes in
the sand, and lay their eggs. (The turtles
are not easily disturbed, and you can
get very close.) Every night during the
season, volunteer guides from the Uni-
versity of Queensland research station
on the island are on hand; you can
watch and ask questions as the
researchers tag and measure the turtles
before they return to the water. The lay-
ing season runs December through Feb-
ruary, and only one in 5,000 hatchlings
will live to return in about 50 years to
lay their own eggs.
Another good place to watch the tur-
tles nesting is Mon Repos Beach, out-
side Bundaberg. Mon Repos
Conservation Park is one of the two
largest loggerhead-turtle rookeries in
the South Pacific. The visitor center by
the beach has a great display on the
turtle life cycle and shows films at
approximately 7:30pm daily in summer.
There is a strict booking system for
turtle-watching tours, to help cope with
the crowds. Access to the beach is by
ticket only, and you must book your visit
to Mon Repos during the turtle season.
Tickets are sold through the Bundaberg
Visitor Information Centre at 271 Bour-
bong St., Bundaberg (&1300/722 099
in Australia or 07/4153 8888), or you can
book online at www.bookbundaberg
region.com.au from September 1. The
website has a lot of very useful informa-
tion on how to get to the rookery and
what to expect from your turtle-watch-
ing experience. Tours start at 7pm, but
you may have to wait up to 2 hours or
more, depending on when the turtles
appear. Nesting happens around high
tide; hatching usually occurs between
8pm and midnight. Take a sweater, as it
can get quite cool.
The Mon Repos Turtle Rookery
(&07/4159 1652 or 07/4131 1600) is
14km (83.4 miles) east of Bundaberg’s
town center. Follow Bourbong Street
out of town toward Burnett Heads as it
becomes Bundaberg-Bargara Road.
Take the Port Road to the left and look
for the Mon Repos signs to the right.
During turtle-nesting season (Nov to
late Mar), the park and information cen-
ter are open 24 hours a day. Public
access to the beach is closed from 6pm
to 6am. Turtle viewing tours run from
7pm until 1am daily (except for Dec 24,
25, and 31). From April to early Novem-
ber (when there are no turtles around),
the information center is open Monday
to Friday from 8am to 3:30pm. The park
is open 24 hours. Admission to the visi-
tor center is free from April through
November; but when the turtles start
nesting, you pay A$9.60 for adults,
A$5.10 for children ages 5 to 17 and
seniors, or A$23 for families, including
your tour.
3-day, 3-night dive cruises to Lady Musgrave Island twice a week. The cruise costs
A$678, including all meals and 8 to 10 dives. Equipment rental, including a dive
computer, is A$80 per person.


8
347


QUEENSLAND & THE GREAT BARRIER REEF

The Capricorn Coast

WHERE TO STAY
Sun City Motel



This basic but neat and tidy motel is a short stroll across the
river from the town center. The rooms are clean and well kept, and have a ceiling
fan, toaster, and tea- and coffeemaking facilities. Two family rooms have a double
bed and twin bunks. Home-cooked meals can be delivered to your room or you can
use the guest barbecue and outdoor dining area.
11a Hinkler Ave., North Bundaberg, QLD 4670. &07/4152 1099. Fax 07/4153 1510. www.suncitymotel.com.
au. 12 units, all with shower only. A$80 double; A$130 family room (sleeps 4). Extra person A$10. AE, DC,
MC, V. Free covered parking. Amenities: Free airport, train, or bus station transfers; nearby golf course;
access to nearby health club; outdoor saltwater pool; room service. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, Wi-Fi.

8

Lady Elliot Island


80km (50 miles) NE of Bundaberg

The southernmost Great Barrier Reef island, Lady Elliot, is a 42-hectare (104-acre)
coral cay ringed by a wide, shallow lagoon filled with dazzling coral life. Reef walking,
snorkeling, and diving are the main reasons people come to this coral cay, which
is so small you can walk across it in 15 minutes. You may snorkel and reef walk during
only the 2 to 3 hours before and after high tide, so plan your schedule accordingly.
You will see dazzling corals and brilliantly colored fish, clams, sponges,
urchins, and anemones. Divers will see a good range of marine life, including green
and loggerhead turtles (which nest on the beach Nov–Mar). Whales pass by from
June through September.

Lady Elliot is a sparse, grassy island rookery, not a lush tropical paradise, so don’t
expect white sand and palm trees. Some people will find it too spartan; others will
relish chilling out in a beautiful, peaceful location with reef all around. Just be prepared
for the smell and constant noise of those birds.

GETTING THERE You reach the island by a 30-minute flight from Bundaberg or
Hervey Bay that runs three times a day. Book your air travel with your accommodations.
Seair (&07/5599 4509; www.seairpacific.com.au) offers a day-trip package
from both departure points for A$298 for adults and A$161 for children 3 to 12
including flights, snorkel gear, glass-bottom-boat ride, lunch, and guided activities.
Day-trip flights also operate from Brisbane and the Gold Coast for A$699 adults and
A$349 children, and the Sunshine Coast for A$599 adults and A$330 children
round-trip. There is a 10-kilogram (22-lb.) luggage limit.

WHERE TO STAY
Lady Elliot Island Eco Resort



Accommodations here are fairly basic, but
visitors come for the Reef, not the room. Still, all suites and rooms have been refurbished
over the past couple of years, with fresh paint and new queen-size beds and
furniture in the suites and reef rooms. Top of the range are air-conditioned Island
suites, which have one or two separate bedrooms and great sea views from the deck.
Most Reef rooms sleep four and have decks with views through the trees to the sea.
Shearwater bunk rooms sleep up to six. All rooms have modern private bathrooms.
The cool, spacious safari-tent “eco-huts” have four bunks, electric lighting, and
timber floors, but share the public toilets and showers used by day guests. The limited
facilities include a boutique, an education center, and a dive shop, which runs
shore and boat dives, introductory dives, and rents equipment. The resort has no
air-conditioning, no keys (secure storage is at the front desk), no TVs, no radio,
no mobile phone reception, and one public telephone. The food is basic. A low-key

program of mostly free activities includes glass-bottom-boat rides, badminton,
guided walks, and beach volleyball—but the true beauty of this place is that because
of the relatively low number of guests, you pretty much get the Reef to yourself.

Great Barrier Reef, off Bundaberg (P.O. Box 348), Runaway Bay, QLD 4216. &1800/072 200 in Australia,
or 07/4156 4444. Fax 07/4156 4400. www.ladyelliot.com.au. 40 units, 20 with bathroom with
shower only. A$316–A$352 eco-hut double; A$374–A$402 bunk room double; A$432–A$446 double
garden unit; A$472–A$630 double reef unit; A$584–A$622 suite double. A$96–A$101 children 3–12
years. 3-night minimum Christmas/New Year; 2-night minimum for suites. Ask about packages. Rates
include breakfast, dinner, and some guided tours. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; children’s
program (ages 3–12) during Queensland school holidays; saltwater pool. In room: A/C (suites only),
ceiling or wall fans, hair dryer (suites only), no phone.

ECO-ADVENTURES ON
FRASER ISLAND

1,547km (959 miles) S of Cairns; 260km (161 miles) N of Brisbane; 15km (91.2 miles) E of Hervey Bay

The biggest sand island in the world, this 162,000-hectare (400,140-acre) World
Heritage–listed island off the central Queensland coast attracts a mix of ecotourists
and Aussie fishermen. Fraser is a pristine vista of eucalyptus woodlands, dunes,
clear creeks, ancient rainforest, blue lakes, ocher-colored sand cliffs, and a stunning
121km-long (75-mile) beach. For four-wheel-drive fans, Fraser’s beauty lies in its
absence of paved roads. On weekends when the fish are running, it’s nothing to see
100 four-wheel-drives lining 75-Mile Beach, which is an authorized road. Pedestrians,
beware!

You’ll need more than a day here to see everything and to truly appreciate how
stunning this place is. Allow at least 3 days to soak it all up, and to allow for the slow
pace dictated by the sandy trails that pass for roads.

Essentials

GETTING THERE Hervey (pronounced Har-vey) Bay is the main gateway to the
island. Take the Bruce Highway to Maryborough, then the 34km (21-mile) road to
Hervey Bay. From the north, turn off the highway at Torbanlea, north of Maryborough,
and cut across to Hervey Bay. Allow 3 hours from the Sunshine Coast, a good
5 hours from Brisbane.

QantasLink (&13 13 13 in Australia) flies from Brisbane to Hervey Bay. Virgin
Blue (&13 67 89 in Australia) and Jetstar (& 13 15 38 in Australia) both
fly direct from Sydney.

Greyhound Australia (&1300/473 946 in Australia) coaches stop in Hervey
Bay on the Brisbane-Cairns-Brisbane routes. The 51.2-hour trip from Brisbane costs
A$67. From Cairns, the fare is A$264 and the trip is around 24 hours. Kingfisher
Bay Resort runs a shuttle from Brisbane for A$85 per person.

The nearest train station is in Maryborough West, 34km (20 miles) from Hervey
Bay. Passengers on the high-speed Tilt Train (Sun–Fri) can book connecting
bus service to Pialba (a suburb of Hervey Bay) through Queensland Rail
(& 1300/131 722 in Queensland; www.traveltrain.com.au). The fare from Brisbane
for the 31.2-hour Tilt Train trip is A$68 in economy class and A$98 in business
class, including the bus fare. Fares are A$197 in a seat and A$712 in a Queenslanderclass
sleeper from Cairns (trip time: just under 27 hr.). Train passengers from the

8
QUEENSLAND BARRIER

Eco-
Adventures on Fraser Island

349


QUEENSLAND & THE GREAT BARRIER REEF

Eco-
Adventures on Fraser Island

north must take a courtesy shuttle from Maryborough West to Maryborough Central;
then take the next available local bus to Pialba.

Guests at Kingfisher Bay Resort (p. 352) can get to the resort aboard the Kingfisher
Ferry, which makes the trip from the mainland six times a day. Round-trip
fare for the 50-minute crossing is A$50 adults and A$25 kids 4 to 14. The resort runs
a shuttle from Hervey Bay’s airport and coach terminal to the harbor; the cost is A$7
adults, half-price for kids. You can park free at the Fastcat terminal. Drive to the
terminal first to unload your luggage at the Kingfisher Bay reception desk, and then
return to the parking lot and walk back (only 100m/328 ft.). Helicopter transfers are
also available.

8 GETTING THERE & GETTING AROUND BY FOUR-WHEEL DRIVE
Four-wheel-drives are the only vehicle transportation on the island. Many fourwheel-
drive rentals are based in Hervey Bay, but you must be 21 or over to rent one.
You’ll pay around A$200 a day, plus around A$20 to A$35 per day to reduce the
deductible (usually A$4,000), plus a bond (typically A$500). You must also buy a
government Vehicle Access Permit, which costs A$38 from your rental-car company,
Urangan Boat Harbour, or the River Heads boat ramp.
Fraser Magic 4WD Hire (& 07/4125 6612; www.fraser4wdhire.com.au)
rents four-wheel-drives and camping gear, offers four-wheel-drive packages that
include camping or accommodations, organizes Vehicle Access Permits, barge bookings,
camping permits, and secure storage for your car and will pick you up from the
airport, the coach terminal, or your hotel. Aussie Trax 4.4 Rentals (&1800/062
275 in Australia, or 07/4124 4433; www.fraserisland4wd.com.au), has offices in
Hervey Bay and at Kingfisher Bay Resort on Fraser Island (see below), and allows
1-day rentals. A four-wheel-drive will cost you between about A$150 and A$300 a
day, plus a A$500 security deposit (by credit card), held until return of the vehicle
in the original condition. Rates are cheaper if you book for a week. Book well in
advance.
Four-wheel-drives reach the island on the Fraser Venture barge (&1800/227
437 in Australia or 07/4194 9300; www.fraserislandbarges.com.au), which runs
three times a day from River Heads, 17km (11 miles) south of Urangan Boat Harbour.
Kingfisher Bay Resort (see below) also runs a barge from River Heads. The
round-trip fare for a vehicle with up to four occupants is A$150. It’s a good idea to
book a place for the 45-minute crossing. Barges also provide access to Rainbow
Beach and operate continuously between Inskip Point and Hook Point between 6am
and 5:30pm daily. The cost is A$90 return for a vehicle and four passengers.
Fraser Island Taxi Service (& 07/4127 9188, or 0429/379 188 mobile) is
another option for getting around. There is only one taxi on the island (a four-wheeldrive,
of course), so it’s important to book ahead. They will pick you up anywhere on
the island and will give you a quote on price before you set off. The taxi seats five,
and there’s also room for your luggage and fishing rods.
Fraser Explorer Tours (& 07/4194 9222; www.fraserexplorertours.com.au),
which runs day tours of the island from Hervey Bay and from Rainbow Beach, costs
A$159 to A$199 adults and A$99 to A$145 children 4 to 14.


VISITOR INFORMATION The Hervey Bay Visitor Information Centre is
at 227 Maryborough–Hervey Bay Rd. (at Urraween Rd.), Pialba (&1800/811 728
in Australia, or 07/4215 9855; www.visitherveybay.info). It is open daily 9am to 5pm,


Fraser Island


QUEENSLAND BARRIER Eco-
Adventures on Fraser Island
MahenoMaheno WreckWreckCorroboreeCorroboreeBeachBeach
OrchidOrchid
BeachBeach
Eli CreekEli CreekDundubaraDundubaraWaddyWaddyPointPoint
HappyHappyValleyValleyEurong QPWSEurong QPWSInformation CentreInformation CentreCentral StationCentral Station
KingfisherKingfisherBayBayHervey BayHervey BayGREAT SANDYGREAT SANDYNAT'L PARKNAT L PARK
Lake BowarradyLake BowarradyLake AllomLake Allom
PlatypusPlatypus
BayBay
Lake McKenzieLake McKenzieLakeLake
GarawongeraGarawongeraLake WabbyLake WabbyLake BirrabeenLake BirrabeenHerveyHer v ey
BayBa y
Lake BoomanjinLake BoomanjinRooney Point
Sandy
Cape
Indian
HeadSandyPoint
Hook Point
Inskip Point
Sandy Cape
Lighthouse
Lake Bowarrady
Lake Allom
Platypus
Bay
Lake McKenzie
Lake
Garawongera
Lake WabbyLake Birrabeen
Lake Boomanjin
P A CIFIC
OCEAN
Hervey
Bay
Great
Sandy
Strait
Maheno Wreck
Corroboree
Beach
Orchid
Beach
Eli Creek
Dundubara
WaddyPoint
HappyValley
Eurong QPWSInformation Centre
Central Station
KingfisherBay
Hervey Bay
GREAT SANDY
NAT'L PARK
10 mi0
0 10 km
AUSTRALIAA U S T R A L I AAUSTRALIA
CanberraCanberraPerthPerthDarwinDarwinSydneySydneyCanberra
Perth
FraserFraserIslandIslandFraser
Island
Darwin
Sydney
MelbourneMelbourneMelbourne
BrisbaneBrisbaneBrisbane
8
except Good Friday and Christmas Day. Another online source of information is
www.hervey.com.au. The Marina Kiosk (& 07/4128 9800) at Urangan Boat
Harbour is a one-stop booking and information agency for all Fraser-related travel.
Several Queensland Parks and Wildlife Service information offices are on the island.

There are no towns and very few facilities, food stores, or services on the island,
so if you’re camping, take all supplies with you.

Exploring the Island

Fraser’s turquoise lakes and tea-colored “perched” lakes in the dunes are among the
island’s biggest attractions. Brilliant blue Lake McKenzie is absolutely beautiful; a

351


Eco-
Adventures on Fraser Island

swim here may be the highlight of your visit. Lake Birrabeen is another popular
swimming spot. Don’t miss a refreshing swim in the fast-flowing clear shallows of
Eli Creek. Wade up the creek for a mile or two and let the current carry you back
down. You should also take the boardwalk through a verdant forest of palms and
ferns along the banks of Wanggoolba Creek.

Don’t swim at 75-Mile Beach, which hugs the eastern edge of the island—it has
dangerously strong currents and a healthy shark population. Instead, swim in the
Champagne Pools (also called the Aquarium)—pockets of soft sand protected
from the worst of the waves by rocks. The bubbling seawater turns the pools into
miniature spas. The pools are just north of Indian Head, a 60m (197-ft.) rocky

8 outcrop at the northern end of the beach.
View the island’s famous colored sand in its natural setting—from the 70m (230ft.)
Cathedrals, cliffs that stretch for miles north of the settlement of Happy Valley
on the eastern side of the island.
Some of Queensland’s best fishing is on Fraser Island. Anglers can throw a line in
the surf gutters off the beach. (Freshwater fishing is not allowed.) Bream, whiting,
flathead, and swallowtail are the beach catches. Indian Head is good for rock species
and tailor; the waters east off Waddy Point yield northern and southern reef fish.
Kingfisher Bay Resort (see below) offers free fish clinics, rents tackle, and organizes
half-day fishing jaunts.
From August through October, tour boats crowd the straits to see humpback
whales returning to Antarctica with calves in tow. Kingfisher Bay Resort runs a
whale-watching cruise from Urangan Harbour.

Where to Stay

Kingfisher Bay Resort


This sleek, environment-friendly ecoresort lies
low along Fraser’s west coast. Hotel rooms are smart and contemporary, with airconditioning
and Japanese-style screens opening onto balconies that look into the
bush, but my pick are the two- and three-bedroom villas just a short walk from the
main resort area and pools. The hillside villas, which have Jacuzzis on their balconies,
are fairly luxurious, but guests must contend with that long haul up the hill.
Each villa has a kitchen, washing machine, and dryer. Houses are available to rent
for those who want extra privacy away from the resort area. The only drawback is
that you must have your own vehicle, as transport is not provided to get to them. An
impressive lineup of ecoeducational activities includes daily four-wheel-drive tours
with a ranger to points of interest around the island, free guided walks daily, and an

QUEENSLAND & THE GREAT BARRIER REEF
The dingoes that roam the island are
emboldened by visitors who have—
sometimes deliberately, sometimes
unwittingly—fed them over the years.
These dangerous wild animals have
been responsible for one death and
several serious attacks in recent years.
Do not feed them, and keep your dis-
tance. If you don’t, rangers can impose
on-the-spot fines of A$225. And be
warned: The laws are strictly enforced
by the rangers, and the maximum pen-
alty is A$3,000.
Don’t Feed the Dingoes

The stunning Fraser Island World Heri-
tage Area is the location for one of
Queensland’s six Great Walks (p. 334).
The Fraser Island Great Walk (&13 13
04 in Australia; www.derm.qld.gov.au)
follows a winding track from Dilli Vil-
lage to Lake Garawongera. The main
trail is 85km (53 miles) long and takes
6 to 8 days to complete, but offshoots
provide short, full-day, overnight, and
2- to 3-day walks. Overnight walkers
must book huts and need a permit,
which costs A$5 per person or A$20
for families of up to six with children
ages 17 or under. The walk takes you to
many of the island’s popular landmarks,
such as Lake McKenzie, Central Station,
Wangoolba Creek, Valley of the Giants,
and Lake Wabby.
Another Great Walk Another Great Walk
8
excellent free Junior Eco-Ranger program on weekends and during school vacations.
You can also join bird-watching tours, guided canoe trips, sunset champagne sails,
and dolphin and dugong (manatee) spotting cruises. Wildlife videos play continuously
in the lobby, and the on-site ranger office lists the animals and plants you are
most likely to spot.

Fraser Island (P.M.B. 1), Urangan, QLD 4655. & 1800/072 555 in Australia, or 07/4120 3333.
Fax 07/4120 3326. www.kingfisherbay.com. 262 units. A$213–A$347 hotel double; A$285–A$427 2-bedroom
villa; A$356–A$522 3-bedroom villa; A$421–A$537 executive villa; A$600–A$2,000 houses.
2- and 3-night minimums apply for villas and houses. Free crib. Ask about packages. AE, DC, MC, V.
Amenities: 3 restaurants; 4 bars; babysitting; children’s program; Jacuzzi; 4 outdoor saltwater pools
(1 w/water slide); spa; lit tennis courts; watersports equipment rental and fishing tackle rental. In room:
A/C, TV, hair dryer.

THE SUNSHINE COAST

Warm weather, miles of pleasant beaches, trendy restaurants, and a relaxed lifestyle
attract Aussies to the Sunshine Coast in droves. Despite some rather unsightly commercial
development in recent years, the Sunshine Coast is still a great spot if you
like lazing on sandy beaches and enjoying a good meal.

The Sunshine Coast starts at Caloundra, 83km (51 miles) north of Brisbane, and
runs all the way to Rainbow Beach, 40km (25 miles) north of Noosa Heads ,
where the fashionable crowd goes. There’s a wide range of accommodations, from
inexpensive motels and holiday apartments to AAA-rated five-star hotels and resorts.

Most of Noosa’s sunbathing, dining, shopping, and socializing takes place on
trendy Hastings Street, in Noosa Heads, and on adjacent Main Beach. The commercial
strip of Noosa Junction is a 1-minute drive away; a 3-minute drive west
along the river takes you to the low-key town of Noosaville, where Australian families
rent holiday apartments. Giving Noosa a run for its money in recent years is newly
spruced-up Mooloolaba, about 30km (19 miles) south, which has a better beach and
about 90 great restaurants. For a quieter pace, but with equally lovely (and less
crowded) beaches, head to Peregian or Coolum.

A short drive away, in the hinterland, mountain towns such as Maleny, Montville,
and Mapleton lead to the stunning beauty of the Glass House Mountains,
a dramatic series of 16 volcanic plugs.

QUEENSLAND BARRIER

The Sunshine

353


QUEENSLAND & THE GREAT BARRIER REEF

The Sunshine Coast

Sunshine Coast Essentials

GETTING THERE If you’re driving from Brisbane, take the Bruce Highway
north, and exit onto the Sunshine Motorway to Mooloolaba, Maroochydore, or
Noosa Heads. The road and various exits are well signposted. The trip takes about
2 hours, depending on which part of the coast you are heading to.

Virgin Blue (&13 67 89 in Australia) flies direct from Melbourne and Sydney.
Jetstar (&13 15 38 in Australia) flies direct from Sydney and Melbourne (Tullamarine)
airports to Maroochydore Airport. Tiger Airways (& 03/9335 3033;
www.tigerairways.com) flies direct from Melbourne. Henry’s Airport Bus Service
(&07/5474 0199; www.henrys.com.au) meets all flights; door-to-door transfers to

8

Noosa Heads are A$22 for adults, half-price for kids 4 to 14, or A$60 for families of
four, one-way. Bookings are essential and should be made 24 hours ahead if possible.
A taxi from the airport will cost around A$32 to Maroochydore or A$65 to Noosa.

The nearest train station to Noosa Heads is in Cooroy, 25km (16 miles) away.
Queensland Rail (& 13 16 17 in Queensland; www.qr.com.au) serves Cooroy
once daily from Brisbane on its CityTrain (&07/3606 5555; www.citytrain.com.
au) network. The trip takes about 21.2 hours, and the fare is A$20. Other trains will
take you there via Nambour or Caboolture. You will have to then get a bus connection
to get to Noosa Heads. Queensland Rail’s long-distance trains from Brisbane
pick up but do not drop off passengers in Cooroy, with the exception of the highspeed
Tilt Train (which runs Sun–Fri). The fare is A$34. The Sunlander makes
several trips from Cairns each week; the fare to Nambour is A$212 for a seat, A$420
for a sleeper. Sunbus (& 13 12 30 in Australia, or 07/5450 7888) meets most
trains at Cooroy station and travels to Noosa Heads.

Several coach companies have service to Noosa Heads from Brisbane, including
Sunair (& 1800/804 340 in Australia or 07/5477 0888; www.sunair.com.au).
Greyhound Australia (& 1300/473 946 in Australia) has many daily services
from all major towns along the Bruce Highway between Brisbane and Cairns. Trip
time to Noosa Heads is 21.2 hours from Brisbane and 28 hours from Cairns. The fare
is A$30 from Brisbane and A$281 from Cairns. The new A$11-million Noosa Transit
Centre, opening early 2011, is the main public transport hub for the region.
Located at the southern end of Noosa Junction, at Cooyar Street and Sunshine
Beach Road, it is serviced by TransLink local bus services (operated by Sunbus),
intercity coaches, and tourist service minibuses.

VISITOR INFORMATION Tourism Sunshine Coast (& 07/5458 8888;
www.tourismsunshinecoast.com.au) runs 15 visitor information centers around the
region. In Noosa Heads, drop into the swish new Noosa Visitor Information
Centre on Hastings Street (&1800/002 624 in Australia or 07/5430 5000; www.
tourismnoosa.com.au). It’s open daily from 9am to 5pm. In Maroochydore, there
are two main tourist information centers, at Sunshine Coast Airport (& 07/5459
9050; www.discoverymaroochy.com.au) and at Sixth Avenue (at Melrose Parade),
Maroochydore (which shares the same telephone number). The Caloundra Visitor
Information Centre is at 7 Caloundra Rd., Caloundra (& 1800/644 969 in
Australia or 07/5420 6240; www.caloundratourism.com.au).

GETTING AROUND Major car-rental companies on the Sunshine Coast are
Avis (&07/5443 5055 Sunshine Coast Airport, or 07/5447 4933 Noosa Heads),


The Sunshine Coast


QUEENSLAND BARRIER The Sunshine Bruce HighwayBruce Highway1
1
Laguna BayMaryRiverObiObiCreekMaryRiverLakeCootharabaRiverNoosaGreat SandyNationalParkNoosa NationalParkConondaleNationalParkMapleton FallsNational ParkKondalilla FallsNational ParkSunshineCoastAirportKinabaInformationCentreRainbow
Beach
WolviCooroySunshineBeachNoosaHeadsEumundiCoolum
YandinaMudjimbaMontvilleMaroochydoreBuderimMooloolabaCaloundraTin Can BayBeerwahLandsboroughNambourNoosavilleTewantinFlaxtonMapletonWoombyeMaleny4WDBlackall Ranges
Tourist
Drive 23Blackall Ranges
Tourist
Drive 23BruceHighwayBribieIslandTeewahColouredSands
Forty
Mile
BeachGlass HouseMountainsCONONDALERANGEBLACKALLRANGEJIMNARANGE4WDLaguna Bay
Mary
River
ObiObiCreek
Mary
River
Lake
Cootharaba
RiverNoosa
PACIFIC
OCEAN
Great Sandy
National
Park
Noosa National
Park
Conondale
National
Park
Mapleton Falls
National Park
Kondalilla Falls
National Park
Sunshine
Coast
Airport
Kinaba
Information
Centre
Rainbow
Beach
Wolvi
Cooroy Sunshine
Beach
Noosa
Heads
Eumundi
Coolum
Yandina
Mudjimba
Montville
Maroochydore
Buderim
Mooloolaba
Caloundra
Tin Can Bay
Beerwah
Landsborough
Nambour
Noosaville
Tewantin
Flaxton
Mapleton
Woombye
Maleny
4WD
Blackall Ranges
Tourist
Drive 23
Blackall Ranges
Tourist
Drive 23
4WD
BruceHighway
Bruce Highway
Bribie
Island
TeewahColouredSands
Forty
Mile
Beach
Glass House
Mountains
CONONDALERANGE
BLACKALLRANGEJIMNARANGE
10 mi0
0 10 km
1
2
3
4
5
Australia Zoo 5
Big Pineapple 2
Eumundi Markets 1
Mary Cairncross Park 4
Underwater World 3
AUSTRALIAA U S T R A L I AAUSTRALIA
CanberraCanberraPerthPerthDarwinDarwinSydneySydneyCanberra
Perth
Darwin
Sydney
MelbourneMelbourneMelbourne
BrisbaneBrisbaneBrisbane
Area ofArea ofdetaildetailArea of
detail
8
355


QUEENSLAND & THE GREAT BARRIER REEF

The Sunshine Coast

Budget (& 07/5448 7455 airport, or 07/5474 2820 Noosa Heads), Europcar
(& 07/5448 9955 airport, or 07/5447 3777 Noosa Heads), Hertz (& 07/5448
9731 airport), and Thrifty (& 1300/367 227). Many local companies rent cars
and four-wheel-drives, including Trusty (&07/5491 2444).

The local bus company is Sunbus (&07/5450 7888, or 13 12 30 in Australia).
For a taxi, call Suncoast Cabs (&13 10 08 in Australia or 07/5451 7501).

Exploring the Area

HITTING THE BEACH & OTHER OUTDOOR FUN Main Beach, Noosa
Heads, is the place to swim, surf, and sunbathe. If the bikini-clad supermodel look


8 alikes are too much for you, head to Sunshine Beach, just behind Noosa Junction
off the David Low Way, about 2km (11.4 miles) from Noosa Heads, or to Peregian,
slightly farther south. Both are just as beautiful, and all three are patrolled.
Learn to surf with two-time Australian and World Pro-Am champion Merrick
Davis (& 0418/787 577 mobile; www.learntosurf.com.au), who’s been teaching
here since 1992. Merrick and his team run 2-hour lessons on Main Beach daily for
A$60, 3-day certificate courses for A$165, and 5-day courses for A$240. They will
pick you up and drop you off at your accommodations. They also rent surfboards,
body boards, and sea kayaks.
If you want to rent a Windsurfer, canoe, kayak, surf ski, catamaran, jet ski, or
fishing boat that you can play with on the Noosa River or take upriver into Great
Sandy National Park (see below), check out the many outlets along Gympie Terrace
between James Street and Robert Street in Noosaville.
The Aussie Sea Kayak Company (&0407/049 747 mobile phone; www.aus
seakayak.com.au), at the Wharf, Mooloolaba, runs a 2-hour sunset paddle on the
Maroochy River every day for A$45—including a glass of champagne on your return
as a reward for all the hard work! Half-day tours run every day for 3 to 4 hours at
Mooloolaba (A$65). Day tours of the Noosa Everglades run for 7 hours on Tuesdays,
Fridays, and Saturdays at Noosa (A$135), or there’s an overnight tour leaving on
Wednesdays and Saturdays, for A$295 per person.

EXPLORING NOOSA NATIONAL PARK A 10-minute stroll northeast from
Hastings Street brings you to the 432-hectare (1,067-acre) Noosa National Park.
Anywhere you see a crowd looking upward, you’re sure to spot a koala. They’re often
seen in the unlikely setting of the parking lot at the entrance to the park. A network
of well-signposted walking trails leads through the bush. The most scenic is the
2.7km (11.2-mile) coastal trail. The shortest trail is the 1km (half-mile) Palm Grove
circuit; the longest is the 4.8km (3-mile) Tanglewood trail inland to Hell’s Gates—
definitely worth the effort.

GREAT SANDY NATIONAL PARK Stretching north of Noosa along the coast
is the 56,000-hectare (138,320-acre) Great Sandy National Park (often called
Cooloola National Park). It’s home to forests, beach, and freshwater lakes,
including the state’s largest, Lake Cootharaba. A popular activity is to cruise the
Everglades formed by the Noosa River and tributary creeks. The Southern Cooloola
section of the park starts just north of Noosa Heads and Tewantin, on the northern
side of the Noosa River, and extends along the coast to Rainbow Beach. Conventional
vehicles can drive to Elanda Point, just north of Boreen Point, or if you have
a four-wheel-drive you can access the park from Cooloola Way and Harry’s Hut


Road. The park’s information office, the Kinaba Information Centre (&07/5449
7364; www.derm.qld.gov.au/parks/cooloola-southern; daily 9am–3pm;), is on the
western shore of Lake Cootharaba, about 30km (19 miles) from Noosaville. It has a
display on the area’s geography and a mangrove boardwalk to explore; it’s accessible
only by boat, which you can rent from the numerous outfits in Noosaville or by walking
from Elanda via the Kinaba track (6.6km/4 miles round-trip).There are half-day
cruises into the Everglades, and guided kayak tours that explore the park’s lower
reaches.

Another option is to take a four-wheel-drive along Forty-Mile Beach, a designated
highway with traffic laws, for a close-up view of the Teewah colored sand cliffs. This
is a great place to get away from the crowds and enjoy nature’s wonders. Lifeguards
do not patrol the beach, so do not swim alone and take care. Tours are available, or
you can rent a four-wheel-drive and explore on your own. To reach the beach, cross
the Noosa River on the ferry at Tewantin; then take Maximilian Drive for 4km (21.2
miles) to the beach. Stock up on water, food, and gas in Tewantin. The ferry
(& 07/5447 1321; www.noosacarferries.com) costs A$12 per vehicle round-trip;
it operates from 5:30am to 10pm Sunday through Thursday, and 5:30am to midnight
Friday and Saturday.

WILDLIFE PARKS & THEME PARKS Small theme parks seem to thrive on
the Sunshine Coast. Don’t expect thrill rides, but you might find some of them a
pleasant way to spend a few hours.

A transparent tunnel with an 80m (262-ft.) moving walkway that takes you
through a tank filled with sharks, stingrays, groupers, eels, and coral is the highlight
at Underwater World (& 07/5458 6222; www.underwaterworld.com.au) at the
Wharf, Parkyn Parade, Mooloolaba. Kids can pick up starfish and sea cucumbers in
the touch pool, and there are displays on whales and sharks, shark breeding, freshwater
crocodile talks, an otter enclosure, and a 30-minute seal show. You can swim
with the seals (A$90) or dive with the sharks (A$195 for certified divers, including
gear, or A$225 for nondivers). Age restrictions apply. It’s open daily (except Christmas
Day) from 9am to 4:30pm and on April 25 from 1:30pm to 5:30pm (last entry
1 hour before closing). Admission is A$32 for adults, A$26 for seniors and students,
A$22 for children 3 to 14, and A$90 for families of four. Allow 2 hours to see everything,
more if you want to attend all the talks.

At the Big Pineapple (&07/5442 1333), 6km (33.4 miles) south of Nambour,
on the Nambour Connection Road in Woombye—don’t worry, you can’t miss the
16m-tall (52-ft.) monument—you can take a train ride through a pineapple plantation,
ride through a rainforest and a macadamia farm in a macadamia nut–shaped
carriage, and visit a baby-animal farm. It’s open daily, except Christmas Day, from
9am to 5pm (rides start at 10am); it opens later on April 25 (Anzac Day). Entry is
free, but you pay for tours. The train ride costs A$16 adults and A$11 children 4 to
14 (including entry to the animal farm); the macadamia tour costs A$11 adults and
A$8.50 children; the animal farm (without train ride) costs A$13 adults, A$8.50
children. A combination ticket that covers all attractions costs A$25 adults and A$18
children. The best option is a family pass, A$80 for two adults and up to four children,
which covers everything.

Fans of crocodile hunter, TV star, and conservationist Steve Irwin will definitely
want to visit the wildlife park founded by his family. The amazing Australia Zoo

8
QUEENSLAND BARRIER

The Sunshine

,
357


on Glass House Mountains Tourist Drive, at Beerwah, off the Bruce Highway
(& 07/5436 2000; www.australiazoo.com.au) has been run by Irwin’s wife Terri
since his untimely death in 2006. The zoo continues with the expansion that has
made it a world-class attraction covering 100 hectares (251 acres). The highlight is
the “crocoseum,” a 5,000-seat stadium in which the daily croc feedings are held at
3:30pm. Other demonstrations and feedings are held throughout the day, and you
can also hand-feed ’roos, pat a koala, check out foxes and camels, and watch (even
hold!) venomous snakes and pythons. For an extra fee (A$35 adults, A$20 kids, or
A$95 families), you can tour the Koala and Wildlife Hospital next door to see how
sick and injured animals are cared for. There are also lots of exotic animals: tigers,

8
elephants, cheetahs, and more. Admission to the zoo is A$57 for adults, A$46 for
seniors and students, A$34 for kids 3 to 14, and A$170 to A$187 for families. The
park is open daily from 9am to 5pm and closed December 25. Courtesy buses operate
daily from 8am, with pickups at Noosa and other spots around the Sunshine
Coast, arriving at the zoo at 10:25am. The return bus leaves for Noosa at 4pm. The
courtesy bus will also pick up train passengers at Beerwah railway station. Sunbus
(& 07/5450 7888, or 13 12 30 in Australia) services run to Australia Zoo from
Maroochydore’s Sunshine Plaza shopping center, Chancellor Park at Mooloolaba,
and Landsborough railway station. Take bus no. 615.

A Mountaintop Drive Through the Sunshine
Coast Hinterland


A leisurely drive along the lush green ridge top of the Blackall Ranges


behind
Noosa is a popular half- or full-day excursion. Mountain villages, full of crafts shops
and cafes, and terrific views of the coast, are the main attractions. Macadamia nuts,
peaches, and other local produce are often for sale by the road at dirt-cheap prices.
On Wednesdays and Saturdays from 8am to 1:30pm, head to the colorful outdoor

Eumundi Markets


in the historic village of Eumundi, 13km (8 miles) west of

Noosa along the Eumundi Road. Locals and visitors wander under the huge shady
trees among dozens of stalls selling
locally grown organic lemonade, fruit,
groovy hats, teddy bears, antique
linen, homemade soaps, handcrafted
hardwood furniture and one-off fashions.
Get your face painted, your palm
read, or your feet massaged. Listen to
local musicians—even some didgeridoo
players. The markets are hugely
popular but parking isn’t usually a
problem—it’s worth paying a few dollars
for the parking lots rather than
cruising the streets looking for a spot.

Saturdays are a quieter day than Wednesdays to visit, usually. And when your shopping’s
done, pop into one of the cafes on Eumundi’s main street.

From Eumundi, take the Bruce Highway to Nambour and turn right onto the
Nambour–Mapleton Road. (The turnoff is just before you enter Nambour; if you
hit the town, you’ve gone too far.) A winding 12km (71.2-mile) climb up the range
between rolling farmland and forest brings you to Mapleton. Stop at the century-old

The Sunshine Coast

QUEENSLAND & THE GREAT BARRIER REEF
Room rates on the Sunshine Coast are
mostly moderate, but they jump
sharply in the Christmas period from
December 26 to January 26, during
school holidays, and in the week fol-
lowing Easter. Book well ahead at these
times. Weekends are often busy, too.
The Seasons of the
Sunshine Coast

pub for some spectacular views from the veranda. From here, detour almost 4km
(21.2 miles) to see the 120m (394-ft.) Mapleton Falls. A 200m (656-ft.) bushwalk
departs from the picnic grounds and ends with great views over the Obi Obi Valley.
There is also a 1.3km (.8-mile) circuit. During drought conditions, the Falls are
sometimes dry, but you can see that from the lookout before you start the walk—
which is worth it for its own sake, through shady bush with some massive trees and
vines.

Back on the main Mapleton–Maleny Road, head south 3.5km (2 miles)
through lush forest and farms to Flaxton Gardens. Perched on the cliff with breathtaking
coast views is a wine cellar offering tastings and sales, plus a pottery store,
cafe, and gift shop. A bit farther south, you can detour right and walk the 4.6km
(3-mile) round-trip trail to the base of 80m (262-ft.) Kondalilla Falls. You can swim
here, too. It’s a slippery downhill walk, and the climb back up can be tough.

Take the main road south for 5.5km (31.2 miles) to Montville. This English-style
village has become such a popular stop that it has lost some of its character, and lots
of people decry its touristy facade. But everyone still ends up strolling the tree-lined
streets and browsing the gift shops and galleries.

About 13km (8 miles) down the road is Maleny, more laid-back and less commercialized
than Montville. Be sure to follow the signs to Mary Cairncross Park
for spectacular views of the Glass House Mountains , 16 volcanic plugs
protruding out of the plains. The park has a food kiosk, a playground, free wood
barbecues, and a rainforest information center; a 1.7km (1-mile) walking trail loops
through the rainforest past some giant strangler figs, and you are likely to see pademelons
and brush turkeys along the way.

You can either return to Noosa the way you came or, if you’re in a hurry, drive
down to Landsborough and rejoin the Bruce Highway.

Where to Stay

EXPENSIVE
Hyatt Regency Coolum


A couple of hours under the expert care of the
therapists at the Sun Spa and you’ll feel years younger! This is one of the reasons
the well-heeled flock to this sprawling bushland resort. The other is its 18-hole
Robert Trent Jones, Jr.–designed golf course. The Spa does everything from aromatherapy
baths to triglyceride checks—130 treatments in all—and has massage
rooms, aqua-aerobics, yoga, a 25m (82-ft.) lap pool, and much more. The golf
course has been rated as one of the top five resort courses in Australia. Golf widows
and widowers can play tennis, do decoupage in the Creative Arts Centre, take the
twice-daily free shuttle into Noosa to shop, and surf at the resort’s private beach.
So spread out are the low-rise accommodations that guests rent a bike to get
around, wait 15 minutes for the two free resort shuttles (frustrating sometimes), or
get into the healthy swing of things and walk. Accommodations all have contemporary
decor and come as “suites” (one room divided into living and sleeping quarters);
two-bedroom President’s Villas with a kitchenette; villas in the Ambassador Club,
which has its own concierge, pool, tennis court, and lounge; and two-story, threebedroom
Ambassador Club residences boasting rooftop terraces with Jacuzzis.

The Village Square is just that: an attractive cluster of shops, restaurants, bars,
and takeout joints that makes up the heart of the resort. Rates include breakfast, free
golf and tennis clinics daily, and entry to the Spa.

8
QUEENSLAND BARRIER

The Sunshine

359


QUEENSLAND & THE GREAT BARRIER REEF

The Sunshine Coast

Warran Rd., off David Low Way (approximately 2km/11.4 miles south of town), Coolum Beach, QLD 4573.
&1800/266 586 in Australia, 800/633-7313 in the U.S. and Canada, 0845/758 1666 in the U.K. or
020/8335 1220 in London, 0800/44 1234 in New Zealand, or 07/5446 1234. Fax 07/5446 2957. www.
coolum.regency.hyatt.com. 324 units. A$240–A$300 double; A$400–A$555 villa; A$705–A$1,350
Ambassador Residence. Extra person A$60–A$90. Children 12 and under stay free in parent’s room
with existing bedding. Rates include breakfast. Ask about golf, spa, and other packages. AE, MC, V.
Valet parking A$10 per night. Free self-parking. Amenities: 3 restaurants; 3 bars; free airport transfers
(bookings required); babysitting; bikes; children’s programs daily for kids ages 6 weeks to 12 years (fee);
concierge; executive rooms; health club and spa; golf course; 9 outdoor pools (2 heated); room service;
7 night/day tennis courts; watersports equipment rental. In room: A/C, TV w/pay movies, DVD player,
CD player (villas only), hair dryer, Internet (A$13 for 1 hr.; A$25 for 24 hr.), kitchenette, minibar, Wi-Fi
(villas only; A$16 for 1 hr.; A$25 for 24 hr.).

8

Sheraton Noosa Resort & Spa


A great place to enjoy a day spa by the
sea is Noosa’s first AAA-rated five-star resort. Right in the heart of Hastings Street,
the Sheraton has a prime spot. There are several styles of rooms, but in my book the
best are those with views away from the beach looking down the Noosa River to the
mountains. Sit on the balcony at sunset and drink it in. All the rooms are extra-large,
and all have Jacuzzis. You’ll pay more for two-level poolside villas, which have private
access to the pool area but no view. Some rooms have ocean (but not beach) views.
The Aqua Day Spa has a Roman-bathhouse feel and offers a wide range of treatments.
The restaurant, Cato’s—named for the late Australian novelist Nancy Cato,
who lived in Noosa—fronts Hastings Street and is a great place to people-watch.

Hastings St., Noosa Heads, QLD 4567. & 1800/073 535 in Australia, 888/625-5144 in the U.S., or
07/5449 4888. Fax 07/5449 2230. www.sheraton.com. 175 units. A$580–A$830 double; A$850 spa
studios; A$850–A$1,110 suites; A$900–A$990 villas; A$1,140 apts. Extra adult A$75. AE, DC, MC, V. Free
covered parking, valet parking. Amenities: Restaurant; 3 bars; babysitting; bikes; concierge; health club
and spa; Jacuzzi; outdoor heated pool; room service. In room: A/C, TV w/free and pay movies, hair
dryer, Internet (A$15 for 1 hr.; A$25 for 24 hr.), kitchenette, minibar.

MODERATE
Noosa Village Motel



All the letters from satisfied guests pinned up on the
wall here are a testament to owners John and Mary Skelton’s hard work in continually
sprucing up this bright little motel in the heart of Hastings Street. The pleasant
rooms are clean, comfortable, spacious, and freshly painted, with a cheerful atmosphere.
All have ceiling fans and most have small balconies or an outdoor sitting area
downstairs. And at these rates, it’s one of Hastings Street’s best values.
10 Hastings St., Noosa Heads, QLD 4567. &07/5447 5800. Fax 07/5474 9282. www.noosavillage.com.
au. 11 units, all with shower only. A$135–A$145 double; A$195–A$205 suite (sleeps 4); A$270–A$275
2-bedroom family unit (sleeps 6). Extra person A$10–A$15. Rates may be higher in peak season. Ask
about specials. MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: Babysitting; bikes. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, kitchenette.

IN THE HINTERLAND
Avocado Grove Bed & Breakfast Joy Barron’s modern, red-cedar Queenslander
home is in a peaceful rural setting in the middle of an avocado grove just off the
ridge-top road. The cozy, comfortable rooms have country-style furniture, full-length
windows opening onto private verandas, and oil heaters for cool mountain nights.
The big suite downstairs has a TV and kitchen facilities, and a private entrance.
Parrots and other birds are a common sight. Guests are welcome to picnic on the
sloping lawns, which have wonderful views west to Obi Obi Gorge in the Connondale
Ranges.


10 Carramar Court, Flaxton via Montville, QLD 4560. &/fax 07/5445 7585. www.avocadogrove.com.
au. 3 units. A$140 double; A$170 suite. Rates include full breakfast; dinner available on request. Ask
about weekend and midweek packages. MC, V. Turn right off ridge-top road onto Ensbey Rd.; Carramar
Court is the 1st left. Amenities: A/C in guest lounge. In room: Ceiling fan, hair dryer.

Where to Dine

Noosa’s Hastings Street comes alive at night with vacationers wining and dining at
restaurants as sophisticated as those in Sydney and Melbourne. Just stroll along and
see what appeals to you—but make a reservation in high season. Cafe Le Monde
at the southern end of Hastings Street (opposite the back of the Surf Club) is a
Noosa institution and you’ll always find a crowd there. Noosa Junction is a less
attractive place to eat, but the prices are cheaper. There are about 90 restaurants at
Mooloolaba.

Bistro C


CONTEMPORARY Walk through from Hastings Street to the
beachfront, whether it’s for the best breakfast in town, a casual lunch, a sunset
cocktail, or dinner to the sound of the lapping surf. It’s hard to know what is Bistro
C’s greatest asset—the location, the great food, or the terrific attentive staff. The
food is interesting and the decor stylish, with interesting statues and artwork. I recommend
the duck and pineapple curry, which comes with mango-lime chutney, flat
bread, and jasmine rice, but everything on the menu is just as tantalising. Some
nights, there’s a fireplace lit on the sand across the boardwalk . . . and if the sun is
setting or the moon is full, it’s even more magical. A snack menu is available from 3
to 5pm if you want something light with your drinks, and later there’s a throng at the
cocktail bar.
49 Hastings St., Noosa Heads. &07/5447 2855. www.bistroc.com.au. Reservations recommended.
Main courses A$25–A$32. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 7:30am–late.

Season


CONTEMPORARY With one of the few beachfront restaurant locations,
this is another of Noosa’s most popular restaurants, deservedly so, for the food
is superb. Breakfast dishes can be as simple as muffins, or you can indulge yourself
with buttermilk-and-banana pancakes (with palm sugar butter and maple syrup). For
dinner? How about crispy-skin spitchcock with roast pumpkin, dates, green beans,
merguez sausage, almonds, and labna? Or even simpler: crisp fried fish and chips
with tartar sauce and fresh lemon? The restaurant is fully licensed.
25 Hastings St., Noosa Heads. &07/5447 3747. www.seasonrestaurant.com.au. Reservations essential
for dinner; accepted same day only. Main courses A$25–A$37; breakfast items A$5–A$21. MC, V. Daily
7:30am–10pm.

Spirit House


ASIAN It’s worth making the effort to get to this amazing restaurant—
you will be thinking and talking about it long after you’ve left. Walk along
the jungle paths to the hidden building and you’ll start to get an idea of what’s in store.
Tables are set around a lagoon and among the trees, with massive statues and other
artworks scattered throughout. At night, the effect is enhanced by torches and lighting.
But it won’t prepare you for the flavors that come out of this kitchen, mainly Thai
but with other Asian influences—dishes such as whole crispy fish with tamarind and
chili sauce; or barbecued prawns with golden shallot, ginger, and mint salad. I defy
you to leave without buying the cookbook or signing up for the cooking classes.
20 Ninderry Rd., Yandina. &07/5446 8994. www.spirithouse.com.au. Reservations essential. Main
courses A$18–A$36. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily for lunch from noon; Wed–Sat from 6pm.

8
QUEENSLAND BARRIER

The Sunshine

361


THE GOLD COAST


QUEENSLAND & THE GREAT BARRIER REEF

The Gold Coast

Love it or hate it, the Gold Coast is one of Australia’s icons. Bronzed lifeguards,
bikini-clad meter maids, tanned tourists draped with gold jewelry, high-rise apartment
towers that cast long shadows over parts of the beach . . . but the glitz, the
glitter, and the overdevelopment pale as soon as you hit the sand. The white shoreline
stretches uninterrupted for 70km (43 miles), making up for the long strips of
neon-lit motels and souvenir shops. Since the ’50s, Australians have flocked to this
strip of coastline, and that hasn’t changed. Today, they’re lining up with tourists from
around the world to get into the theme parks, but everyone can still find a quiet spot

8 on the beach.
The Gold Coast’s theme parks are not as large or as sophisticated as Disney
World, but they’re exciting. Apart from the three major parks—Dreamworld, Warner
Bros. Movie World, and Sea World—there are of plenty of smaller ones. There are
also 40 golf courses, dinner cruises, and loads of adrenaline-fueled outdoor activities,
from bungee jumping to jet-skiing. The best activity on the Gold Coast, though,
is the natural kind, and it doesn’t cost a cent—hitting the surf and lazing on the
beach.

Gold Coast Essentials

GETTING THERE By Car Access to the Gold Coast Highway, which runs the
length of the Coast, is off the Pacific Highway from Sydney or Brisbane. The drive
takes about 80 minutes from Brisbane. From Sydney it’s an 11-hour trip, sometimes
longer, on the crowded, run-down Pacific Highway.

BY PLANE Domestic flights land at Gold Coast Airport, Coolangatta, 25km (16
miles) south of Surfers Paradise. Qantas (& 13 13 13) offers direct flights from
Sydney. Virgin Blue (&13 67 89) flies from Melbourne, Sydney, Canberra, Newcastle,
and Adelaide, and Jetstar (& 13 15 38 in Australia) flies from Cairns,
Melbourne, Sydney, Newcastle, and Adelaide. Tiger Airways (&03/9335 3033;
www.tigerairways.com) flies direct from Melbourne and Adelaide. Pacific Blue
(&13 16 45 in Australia or 07/3295 2284; 0800/670 000 in New Zealand; www.
flypacificblue.com) flies to Gold Coast Airport from Auckland, New Zealand. The
Gold Coast Tourist Shuttle (& 1300/655 655 in Australia, or 07/5574 5111;
www.gcshuttle.com.au) meets every flight and will take you to your accommodations;
the fare is A$21 one-way and A$38 round-trip for adults, A$11 one-way or
A$19 round-trip for kids ages 4 to 13, A$53 one-way or A$95 round-trip for families
of four. A better deal, if you’re going to use buses a lot, is to buy a Freedom Pass (see
“Getting Around,” p. 365), which includes your airport transfers. A taxi from the
airport to Surfers Paradise is about A$55 but may be higher if traffic is heavy.

The nearest international gateway is Brisbane International Airport (see chapter
7, p. 237). The Coachtrans (& 1300/664 700 in Queensland, or 07/3358
9700; www.coachtrans.com.au) airport bus meets most flights and makes about 20
trips a day from the domestic and international terminals at Brisbane Airport to Gold
Coast accommodations for A$40 adults, A$18 children 4 to 13, or A$98 for families
of four. The trip takes about 90 minutes to Surfers Paradise. You do not need to book
in advance unless you are on an evening flight.


The Gold Coast


QUEENSLAND BARRIER The Gold 1
1
1
1
90
ALTALTALTALTALT
ALT
Q U E ENS LA ND
SouthStradbrokeIslandTheSpitNerangRiverRiverCoomeraThe BroadwaterThe BroadwaterTo Brisbane
(52km)
To
Mt. TamborineTo
Canungra &
Lamington
National ParkMarina
MirageBroadbeachBurleigh HeadsMiamiMermaid BeachMain BeachSurfers ParadiseSouthportPalm BeachOxenfordSanctuaryCove(Hope Island)
SorrentoMerrimacLabradorCoomeraAshmoreBundallNorth BurleighKirraGreenmountCoolangatta
NerangCarraraRobinaTugunPacific
HighwayGold Coast Highway
Highway
HighwayPacificGold CoastNerang-BroadbeachRd.
BayviewSmithSt.
GoldCoastSpringbrookRd.
ReedyCreekRd.
Coolangatta(Gold Coast)
AirportN . S. W .
QUEENSLAND
N.S.W.
South
Stradbroke
Island
The
Spit
PACIFIC
OCEAN
NerangRiver
River
Coomera
The Broadwater
The Broadwater
Coolangatta
(Gold Coast)
Airport
To Brisbane
(52km)
To
Mt. Tamborine
To
Canungra &
Lamington
National Park
Marina
Mirage
Broadbeach
Burleigh Heads
Miami
Mermaid Beach
Main Beach
Surfers Paradise
Southport
Palm Beach
Oxenford
Sanctuary
Cove
(Hope Island)
Sorrento
Merrimac
Labrador
Coomera
Ashmore
Bundall
North Burleigh
KirraGreenmountCoolangatta
Nerang
Carrara
Robina
Tugun
Pacific
Highway
Gold Coast Highway
Highway
Highway
Pacific
Gold Coast
Nerang-BroadbeachRd.
Bayview
SmithSt.
GoldCoast
SpringbrookRd.
Reedy CreekRd.
Australian Outback
Spectacular 4
Conrad Jupiters Casino 8
Currumbin Wildlife
Sanctuary 10
David Fleay Wildlife Park 9
Dreamworld 1
Q1 Observation Deck 7
Sea World 6
Surfworld Gold Coast 11
Warner Bros. Movie World 3
Wet 'n' Wild Water World 5
Whitewater World 2
6
4
5
3
1
10
9
8
2
7
11
AUSTRALIAA U S T R A L I AAUSTRALIA
CanberraCanberraPerthPerthBrisbaneBrisbaneDarwinDarwinSydneySydneyCanberra
Perth
Brisbane
Darwin
Sydney
MelbourneMelbourneMelbourne
Area of DetailArea of DetailArea of Detail
2.5 mi0
0 2.5 km
8
363


QUEENSLAND & THE GREAT BARRIER REEF

The Gold Coast

AirtrainConnect links Brisbane Airport and the Gold Coast by train and bus for
A$45 adults, A$22 children 5 to 14, or A$90 for a family of four. Take Airtrain to the
Gold Coast, and then an air-conditioned coach shuttle to any accommodations
between Southport Spit at the northern end of the Gold Coast and Burleigh Heads
to the south. Airtrain’s SmartPass, for A$133 per adult, A$67 per child, or A$333 for
families of four for 3 days, covers AirtrainConnect transfers, as well as unlimited
door-to-door theme park transfers on the Gold Coast Tourist Shuttle and use of the
local Surfside bus network, 24 hours a day. Passes are also available for 5, 7, and 10
days.

BY BUS Coachtrans (&1300/664 700 in Queensland, or 07/3358 9700) runs

8 between Brisbane and Gold Coast hotels. The fare is A$32 adults one-way, A$20 for
kids 4 to 13; A$84 for families of four.
Greyhound Australia (&1300/473 946) makes daily stops at Surfers Paradise
from Sydney and Brisbane. The trip from Sydney takes 15 to 16 hours, and the fare
is A$139. Trip time from Brisbane is 90 minutes, and the fare is A$29.

BY TRAIN Suburban trains (call Queensland Rail CityTrain; & 07/3235
5555) depart Brisbane Central and Roma Street stations every 30 minutes for the
70-minute trip to the Gold Coast suburb of Nerang. The fare is A$11 adults, A$5.60
children 5 to 14. Numerous local buses meet the trains to take passengers to Surfers
Paradise.

If you come by train to Surfers Paradise from Sydney or other southern cities,
service is on Countrylink (& 13 22 32 in Australia; www.countrylink.info), and
you will need to transfer to a connecting coach in Casino or Murwillumbah, just
south of the Queensland border. The trip from Sydney takes 14 to 15 hours and the
fare is A$118 for a first-class seat.

VISITOR INFORMATION Gold Coast Tourism (& 1300/309 440 in Australia,
or 07/5538 4419; www.verygoldcoast.com) has an information kiosk on Cavill
Avenue in Surfers Paradise. It is stacked with brochures on things to see and do, and
the staff will book tours and arrange accommodations. The kiosk is open Monday
through Saturday from 8:30am to 5pm, and Sunday and public holidays from 9am
to 4pm. A second information booth (&07/5569 3380) is at the corner of Griffith
and Warner streets in Coolangatta. It is open from 8:30am to 5pm weekdays and
from 9am to 3pm Saturdays; closed Sundays and public holidays.

ORIENTATION The heart of the Gold Coast is Surfers Paradise—“Surfers” to
the locals—a high-rise forest of apartment towers, shops, cheap eateries, taverns,
and amusement parlors. The pedestrian-only Cavill Mall, in the center of town, connects
the Gold Coast Highway to the Esplanade, which runs along the beach.

The Gold Coast Highway is the main artery that connects the endless beachside
suburbs lining the coast. Just north of Surfers is Main Beach , where Tedder
Avenue abounds with shops, restaurants, and cafes. Heading south from Surfers, the
main beach centers are Broadbeach, where retail complexes and restaurants are
mushrooming; family-oriented Burleigh Heads; and the twin towns of Coolangatta
in Queensland and Tweed Heads just over the border in New South Wales.
Gold Coast Airport is on the other side of the highway from Coolangatta township.

West of Surfers Paradise and Broadbeach are the affluent suburbs of Ashmore
and Nerang, where luxury residential estates and many of the region’s championship
golf courses have sprung up.


GETTING AROUND It’s not necessary to have a car. The hotels listed below are
within walking distance of the beach, shops, and restaurants, and many tour companies
pick up at hotels. You can reach the theme parks by bus. A car is handy for a
day trip to the hinterland, and to get around to restaurants and golf courses. Parking
is cheap and plentiful in numerous

School holidays, especially the Christ-
mas vacation from mid-December to
the end of January, are peak season on
the Gold Coast. Accommodations are
booked months in advance at these
times. The rest of the year, occupancy
levels plummet—and so do rates! Pack-
ages and deals abound in the off sea-
son, so make sure you ask.
The Secret of the Gold
Coast Seasons
lots and on the side streets between
the Gold Coast Highway and the
Esplanade.

Avis (&07/5539 9388), Budget
(& 07/5538 1344), Europcar
(&13 13 90 in Australia or 07/5569
3370), Hertz (& 07/5538 5366),
and Thrifty (& 07/5570 9999)
have outlets in Surfers Paradise and at
Gold Coast Airport. Endless local
outfits rent cars at cheap rates.

Surfside Buslines (& 13 12 30
in Australia, or 07/5571 6555) is the

8
local bus company. Its best deal is the
Freedom Pass, which allows you to hop on and off the buses anytime you like. The
3-day pass costs A$67 adults and A$34 children 4 to 13, or A$168 for a family of four;
5-, 7-, and 10-day passes are also available. The pass gives you door-to-door return
Gold Coast Airport transfers, unlimited door-to-door transfers to Dreamworld, Warner
Bros. MovieWorld, Sea World, Wet ’n’ Wild Water World, and Currumbin Wildlife
Sanctuary, as well as unlimited use of the Surfside bus network, 24 hours a day.

For a taxi, call Gold Coast Cabs (&13 10 08; www.gccabs.com.au).

What to See & Do on the Coast

HITTING THE BEACHES

The white sandy beaches are the number-one attraction on the Gold Coast. No
fewer than 35 patrolled beaches stretch almost uninterrupted from the Spit north of
Surfers Paradise to Rainbow Bay, south of Coolangatta. In fact, the Gold Coast is
just one long fabulous beach—all you need do is step onto it at any point, and you
will spot the nearest set of red and yellow flags that signal safe swimming. The most
popular beaches are Main Beach , Surfers North, Elkhorn Avenue, Surfers
Paradise, Mermaid Beach, Burleigh Heads, Coolangatta, and Greenmount.
All are patrolled 365 days a year.

THE THEME PARKS

First, there are the “big three”—Dreamworld, Sea World, and Warner Bros. Movie
World. You might also like to check out the Australian Outback Spectacular, also
owned by Warner Bros., located between Movie World and Wet ’n’ Wild Water World.

Sea World is the only major theme park in the center of town. The others are in
northern bushland on the Pacific Highway, about 15 to 20 minutes away from Surfers
Paradise. You can ride to the theme parks on the Gold Coast Tourist Shuttle (see

p. 362) or on Surfside Buslines (&13 12 30 in Queensland) buses. Take bus no.
TX1, TX2, or TX5 to Dreamworld, Movie World, and Wet ’n’ Wild, and bus no. 750
from Surfers Paradise or no. 715 from Southport to get to Sea World.
QUEENSLAND BARRIER

The Gold

365


QUEENSLAND & THE GREAT BARRIER REEF

The Gold Coast


Money-Saving Theme Park Passes
Sea World, Warner Bros. Movie World,
and Wet ’n’ Wild sell a Fun Pass that
gives you 1 day’s entry to each park
over a 5-day period. It costs A$150 for
adults and A$96 for kids 4 to 13. A
Super Pass gives unlimited entry to all
three for 14 days and costs A$190
adults and A$130 for kids. You can buy
passes at the parks, online, from a
travel agency, or at most Gold Coast
hotels, apartments, and tour desks. Sea
World and Warner Bros. Movie World
sell a return pass for A$35 extra adult
or A$23 children, but you must use the
second day within 14 days of your first
visit. Wet ’n’ Wild’s second-day pass is
A$25 adults and A$17 children.
Dreamworld and WhiteWater World
have 2-day passes to both for A$109
adults or A$79 kids ages 3 to 13.

If you are driving, take the M1 Pacific Motorway for about 15 to 20 minutes north
of the Gold Coast or 40 minutes south of Brisbane for Wet ’n’ Wild, Warner Bros.
Movie World, and Dreamworld. Exits are all well signposted. All the theme parks
have huge free parking lots.

Trains (& 13 12 30) run to Coomera and Helensvale on the Brisbane–Gold
Coast line. Queensland Rail CityTrain sells tickets to the theme parks at Brisbane
Central, Roma Street, Fortitude Valley, and South Bank stations.

Australian Outback Spectacular Aimed at introducing a largely international
audience to the spirit of the Outback, this extravagantly staged show—part themepark,
part dinner show—features an unforgettable display of horsemanship. “Heroes
of the Light Horse” celebrates the link between Australia’s stockmen and the legendary
mounted infantrymen of the Australian Light Horse Brigade, famed for its service
in World War I. With seating for 1,000, the evening begins with preshow
entertainment and a three-course Aussie-barbecue-style meal. The 90-minute show
is staged during dinner.

Pacific Hwy. (21km/13 miles north of Surfers Paradise), Oxenford. &13 33 86 in Australia, or 07/5519
6200. www.outbackspectacular.com.au. Admission A$100 adults, A$70 children 4–13. Bookings essential.
Tues–Sun doors open 6:15pm, entertainment starts 6:45pm. Lunchtime matinee shows are available
on selected Sundays. Closed Dec 25. Ample free parking. Coach transfers (&13 33 86) from Gold Coast
accommodations cost A$15 per person round-trip.

Dreamworld


Adrenaline-crazed thrill-seekers will love the action rides, such
as the aptly named Giant Drop, in which you free-fall 39 stories in 5 seconds, and
the Tower of Terror, which propels you forward and upward at 4.5Gs before you fall
backward 38 stories in 7 seconds. They’ll also get a kick out of the hair-raising
Cyclone roller coaster, with its 360-degree loop, and the Wipeout, which spins,
twists, and tumbles you upside down in a random sequence (but only exerts a sissy
2.5Gs of pressure). These high-octane offerings make the park’s other attractions look
tame. Dreamworld is a family fun park, Disney-style—except that here giant koalas
called Kenny and Belinda roam the streets instead of Mickey Mouse. Kids will love
Nickelodeon Central, the only Nickelodeon cartoon attraction outside the U.S.

Other activities include an IMAX theater, a wildlife park where you can cuddle a
koala and hand-feed kangaroos, river cruises livened up by a bushranger shootout,


and a carousel and other rides for young kids. A big highlight is to watch trainers
swim, wrestle, and play with Bengal tigers on Tiger Island. Souvenir stores, restaurants,
cafes, and ice-cream shops abound.

Pacific Hwy. (25km/16 miles north of Surfers Paradise), Coomera. & 1800/073 300 in Australia,
07/5588 1111, or 07/5588 1122 (24-hr. info line). www.dreamworld.com.au. Admission (all-inclusive except
skill games, souvenir photos, and helicopter rides) A$75 adults, A$49 children 3–13. Daily 10am–5pm;
Main St., Plaza Restaurant, and Koala Country open at 9am. Closed Dec 25 and until 1:30pm Apr 25
(Anzac Day). Extended hours during Easter and Dec–Jan. Free parking for 1,600 cars.

Sea World


Canadian polar bear orphan cubs Hudson and Nelson—along
with their bigger friend Lia—are the star attractions at this marine park, and crowds
flock to see them frolic, dive, and hunt for fish in a large pool. Sea World may not
be as sophisticated as similar parks in the United States, but it has its own charm,
plus all the things you’d expect to see—performing dolphins and sea lions, ski shows,
an aquarium, shark feeding, and an array of rides. The newest attraction is a state of
the art Fairy Penguin exhibit, home to 11 of the cute little birds. At Shark Bay, you
can see some of the larger and more dangerous species, such as tiger sharks. You can
also snorkel with the sharks for A$60 per person (if you are 10 or over) or dive with
them if you are a certified diver for A$90. Adults (14 and over) can snorkel with seals
or dolphins for A$165 or A$225, including a souvenir photo. There are lots of other
interactive options and behind-the-scenes tours. A monorail gets you around the park,
and there’s a free water-slide playground. Watersports are available for an extra fee.

Sea World Dr. (3km/13.4 miles north of Surfers Paradise), The Spit, Main Beach. &07/5588 2222, or
07/5588 2205 (24-hr. info line). Fax 07/5591 1056. www.seaworld.com.au. Admission (all-inclusive
except animal experiences, helicopter rides, and powered watersports) A$70 adults, A$46 children
3–13. Daily 10am–5pm; Apr 25 (Anzac Day) 1:30–6:30pm. Closed Dec 25. Free parking.

8
QUEENSLAND BARRIER

The Gold

Long-established water park Wet ’n’
Wild Water World (&07/5556 1610 or
07/5573 2255 for 24-hr. recorded info;
www.wetnwild.com.au) has got compe-
tition across the street. WhiteWater
World by Dreamworld (&1800/073
300 in Australia, or 07/5588 1111; www.
whitewaterworld.com.au), which
opened in late 2006, also has some ter-
rifying turns and waves, and is themed
around Australian surf culture. The
Super Tubes HydroCoaster is a “roller
coaster on water” and is one of only
two in the world; there’s also Nickel-
odeon’s Pipeline Plunge, a playground
for kids ages 5 to 12.
The water at both parks is heated
May to September, there are lifeguards
on duty, you can rent towels and
lockers, and you can use showers. Both
parks are open every day, except Christ-
mas Day (Dec 25) and the morning of
Anzac Day (Apr 25). WhiteWater
World’s hours are 10am to 5pm every
day of the year (but may be extended
during summer). Wet ’n’ Wild opens at
10am daily but closes at 4pm May to
August, 5pm September 1 to December
26 and January 26 to April 30, and
stays open until 9pm December 27 to
January 25 and on Dive-In Movie nights.
Entry to the parks costs roughly the
same: around A$50 adults and A$34
kids ages 4 to 13. Wet ’n’ Wild offers an
“afternoon rate” of A$25 adults and
A$17 children after 2 or 3pm for the
final 2 hours of operation each day, or
after 5pm on Dive-In Movie nights.
Getting Wet (’n’ Wild!)
367


QUEENSLAND & THE GREAT BARRIER REEF

The Gold Coast

Warner Bros. Movie World


Australia’s answer to Universal Studios just
about matches its U.S. counterpart for thrills and spills, and is also based around
working studios. If you already know how Superman flies over skyscrapers, and
you’ve heard a Foley sound studio in action, the train ride around the sets might not
interest you, but it’s a great introduction to cinema tricks for first-timers. Popular
attractions are the hair-raising, stomach-turning rides such as the Superman Escape
roller coaster, the indoor Scooby-Doo Spooky Coaster roller coaster, the Lethal
Weapon roller coaster, and the simulated high-speed chase of Batman: The Ride.
Young kids can take rides and see stage shows by Yosemite Sam and Porky Pig in the
Looney Tunes Village, and there’s a Looney Tunes Parade through the streets each

8 day. Most parades and shows take place between 11am and 4pm.

Pacific Hwy. (21km/13 miles north of Surfers Paradise), Oxenford. & 07/5573 3999 or 5573 8485
(recorded info). www.movieworld.com.au. Admission (all-inclusive) A$70 adults, A$46 children 3–13.
Daily 9:30am–5:30pm; rides and attractions operate 10am–5pm. Closed Dec 25 and until 1:30pm Apr
25 (Anzac Day). Free parking.