500 Adrenalin's places(2)

Itineraries last between 5 and 10 days,
and include stays at the Kujwana Camp
(with spacious, permanent tents that
include en-suite bathrooms), the Moklowane
Camp (which offers tree houses
with private bathrooms), and the Qwaapo
Camp (a “fly camp” with traditional safari
tents and camping beds that can be easily
moved, bucket showers, and bush toilets).
The best time to ride is in the early morning
or late afternoon, away from the hot
midday sun. When you’re ready for a
break, don’t miss taking a trip in a traditional
mokoro, a narrow, canoe-like boat
that allows you to quietly explore the delta’s
shallow waterways.

221


GREAT JOURNEYS

After a full day, as the dark red sun sinks
beneath the horizon, you can sit by a
campfire, reminiscing about your adventurous
ride. Perhaps you’ll hear a hyena’s
laugh interrupt the other animals’ rhythmic
chorus. As you sip a gin and tonic,
waiting for dinner, you’ll easily feel right at
home. —JS

Animal Treks 285
Birding in Panama
Catching a Glimpse of the Quetzal
Panama City to the Chiriqui Highlands, Panama
Botswana Tourism Board, Plot
50676, Fairgrounds Office Park, Gaborone
(& 888/675-7660; www.botswanatourism.
co.bw).
TOUR: Okavango Horse Safaris, Okavango
Delta (& 267/686-1671; www.
okavangohorse.com).

WHEN TO GO: Apr–Oct.
Maun Airport.


The euphoria of spotting a rare bird in its
own habitat can become mildly addictive.
For self-proclaimed birders—nature enthusiasts
who often chronicle the species
they’ve seen on long lists or in detailed
notebooks—the challenge of trying to
glimpse some of the world’s most beautiful
but elusive creatures has a hugely rewarding
payoff. Even for non-birders, it’s easy to
get caught up in the birds’ game of hide
and go seek. As Hernan Arauz, one of Panama’s
most reputable birding guides, said,
“Once you see, through a good scope or
binocular, a crimson-backed tanager, a
blue cotinga, or for that matter, a resplendent
quetzal . . . in good light, in its own
habitat, feeding, flirting, or just perching,
your brain will experience a sensation that
not even the finest glossy National Geographic
photo can accomplish. You will
know that it’s alive . . . in real time. The iridescence
of its plumage will dazzle your
perception, enrich your memory, and trigger
the desire to see more.”

You can begin marveling at Panama’s
vast bird population less than an hour
outside of Panama City, at the Canopy
Tower, an eco-lodge in Soberania National
Park. More than 280 different species of
birds have been spotted in this vicinity,
and you can admire some of them right

from your room’s observation deck. Of
course, you’ll also want to spend some
time on the ground. It’s a short ride from
here to the nearby Pipeline Road, a popular
hiking trail due to its accessibility and
the immense number of bird species
found along it—you might see mot mots,
trogons, toucans, antbirds, colorful tanagers,
or flycatchers. For the past several
years, this trail has set the world record
for 24-hour bird counts, according to the
Audubon Society.

While you’re still in the city limits, you’ll
also want to spend some time in the protected
rainforest at the Metropolitan
National Park, where you could see a
mixed flock of nearly 25 birds at once.
There are more than 260 bird species in
this park, including lance-tailed manakins,
rosy-thrush tanagers, orange-billed sparrows,
rufous, green honeycreepers, and
white wrens. But to spot a famed resplendent
quetzal, you’ll need to travel a bit
farther into western Panama.

The Aztecs and the Mayans revered the
resplendent quetzal; Panama’s royalty
and priests even wore its feathers during
special ceremonies. Today, many birders
consider it be the most beautiful bird in
the Americas. The iridescent male quetzal
boasts dense plumage and a long, green

222


BIRDING & DEEP-SEA FISHING

tail that can reach almost a meter (3 ft.)
during mating season. Although the
females don’t have such long tails and
tend to be somewhat less vibrant than
males, they share the brilliant blue, green,
and red coloring of their mates.

Most of these birds live in the mountainous,
tropical forest regions of Central
America. The best place to see a vibrant
quetzal in Panama is in the cloud forests of
the Chiriqui highlands, particularly by hiking
the Sendero Los Quetzales (the Quetzales
Trail) on the north side of the Volcan
Baru National Park and at Finca Lerida
above Boquete. For an overview of Panama’s
amazing bird wonderland, check out
Ancon Expedition’s Highlights of
Avian Panama tour. If you have time for
a bit more, consider the Birds of Panama
trip, which also includes a visit to the
acclaimed bird Eden in Darien National
Park and the Cana field station.

By the time you’ve spent a week traveling
through this bird-lover’s paradise,
you’ll probably have your own notebook

Animal Treks286
Birding & Deep-Sea Fishing
Island in the Middle of Nowhere
Mykines, Faroe Islands
full of excitedly scribbled lists. Happily, the
birding addiction appears to have no
harmful side effects. —JS

Panama Authority of Tourism
(www.visitpanama.com).

TOUR: Ancon Expeditions of Panama,

Calle Elvira Mendez, Eldif. El Dorado 3
(&507/269-9415; www.anconexpeditions.
com). Ask for Hernan Arauz, the company’s
master naturalist and birding guide.
WHEN TO GO: Dec–May.
Tocumen International Airport, followed
by 1-hr. flight or approx. 5-hr. drive
to Boquete.
$$ Canopy Tower, Apartado 08322701
WTC (&800/930-3397; www.canopy
tower.com). $ Finca Lerida Ecolodge,
Boquete, Chiriqui (& 507/720-2285;
www.fincalerida.com). $–$$ Los Quetzales,
Guadalupe (& 507/771-2291; www.
losquetzales.com).

Do you want to visit an island so remote
that most people don’t know it exists?
Mykines is the westernmost of the Faroe
Islands, just dots in the North Atlantic
Ocean northwest of Scotland and midway
between Iceland and Norway. Vikings settled
the Faroe Islands more than a thousand
years ago and their descendants live
here today in the island’s small village.
Only 11 people live here year-round. Like
all of the Faroe Islands, Mykines slants
sharply upward and ends in steep cliffs on
one side, a pattern created by blasts from
giant volcanoes 60 million years ago. This
dramatic landscape has proved to be an
ideal home for several species of birds,
and an exhilarating place to observe them.

It’s believed, at least locally, that
Mykines is the mysterious “paradise of
birds” that St. Brendan, the seafaring Irish
monk, wrote about in the middle of the
sixth century. Thousands of migratory
birds fly around or perch on the steep
cliffsides, which are composed of layers of
volcanic basalt. Colonies of puffins live on
the ledges and the swaths of green atop
the cliffs. Have your camera ready, so
when the puffins pose with fish in their
brightly colored beaks, you can snap a
picture. As you watch the birds, the
cacophony of notes from guillemots,
storm petrels, and fulmars surrounds you.

223


GREAT JOURNEYS

To see the striking white gannets, you’ll
head to the tiny piece of land reachable
only by crossing a footbridge spanning a
35m-deep (115-ft.) gorge. You’ll pass by a
lighthouse to reach the headland, where
you can see the gannets and their young
perched atop two sea stacks (rock outcroppings
close to the coastline), the only
nesting spot for the species in the Faroe
Islands. There are no organized birding
tours to speak of on the island. For more
information, contact the tourist board
(information below).

While Mykines is tiny, there are a few
hikes. Visit the “stone” forest in Korkadalur,
actually a long line of basalt columns,
or walk to the top of Knukur, for a view of
the nearby islands. Fishing is the main way
families are supported in the Faroe Islands,
and there are boats waiting to take you
deep-sea fishing. You can also sail around
the Faroe Islands either in a private boat,
in the restored schooner, Nor.lysi., which
sails from Torshavn, or the restored sailing
ship Dragin (& 298/456939; www.
dragin.fo/?id=37237), which sets out from
Klaksvi. For a scenic tour on the waters, or

Hitting the Road 287
The Great Ocean Road
Australia’s Most Dizzying Drive
Torquay to Warrnambool, Victoria, Australia
a day of fishing, contact Nor.lysi. (www.
nordlysid.com).

The locals speak a derivative of the
ancient Norse language, but English is also
spoken by some. Ferries come to Mykines
and there is helicopter service a few days
a week.

The gulfstream encircles the Faroe
Islands, tempering the climate. The maritime
weather here causes quick changes,
from misty fog to light showers to blazing
sunshine within the hour, so bring
raingear. —LF

Faroe Islands (&298/30-6900; www.
faroeislands.com). Visit Faroe Islands
(www.visit-faroeislands.com).
TOURS: Faroe Saga Travel (&866/4237242;
www.faroesagatravel.com). Five
Stars of Scandinavia (&800/722-4126;
www.5stars-of-scandinavia.com).
WHEN TO GO: Summer.
Vagar.
$ Kristianshus Mykines (&298-3129-
85).

There’s always something liberating about
a road trip, but this one along Australia’s
wild coastline will make your heart race.
Navigating hairpin turns on the edges of
cliffs high above the sea is nothing short of
exhilarating. Until 1932, when the Great
Ocean Road was completed (built by
returning World War I veterans), this
stretch of Earth was one of the most isolated
in the world. Besides the fisherman
who lived in nearby villages that were
accessible only by boat, few humans had
laid eyes on the juxtaposition of land and
sea here. Set between Torquay and
Warrnambool, the Great Ocean Road is an

awe-inspiring feat of construction, and a
tribute to Australia’s rugged landscape.

To really hug the curves and get the
most out of this thrill-inducing ride, rent a
convertible or a motorcycle. Actually, any
kind of small car will do, but don’t even
think about getting on a bus with a tour
operator. Even though the nearly 240km
(150 miles) drive takes just 31. hours—

2maybe even less depending on how fast
you drive—allow at least 3 days for the
journey. You’ll want to stop and experience
some off-the-road adventures too.

The most eastern portion of the drive,
starting in Torquay, is called the Surf Coast

224


THE GREAT OCEAN ROAD


Along Australia’s Great Ocean Road.

and is home to the world-famous Bells
Beach (see ), featured in Point Break. If
you brought your surfboard, stop your
wheels and ride some waves. Even if you
don’t surf, plan to spend an hour or so
watching other enthusiasts. Each April,
the world’s best surfers come here to
compete in the Rip Curl Pro Surf and Music
Festival.

To spend some more time surfing or to
try your hand at fishing, chill out in the cool
town of Lorne before continuing on to
Apollo Bay—the drive is especially harrowing
as the pavement narrows and twists
along a cliff edge. In Aireys Inlet, take a
horseback ride on the beach or in Angahook-
Lorne State Park with Blazing Saddles
(& 03/5289 7332; www.greatocean
road.com.au/blazing_saddles). If you’d
rather stretch your legs, the state park also
has a number of good hiking trails through
the rainforest. For a quick 30-minute stroll
just past Apollo Bay, walk along the Maits
Rest Rainforest Boardwalk.

The road then cuts inland past the
Otway Lighthouse, built by convicts in
1848. This area is a great place to see
some wildlife at the Cape Otway Centre
for Conservation Ecology and perhaps
spend the night. You’ll want to be alert for
the next part of the drive, as it spectacularly

winds along 61m (200-ft.) sea cliffs. Be sure
to stop and see the Twelve Apostles, a
world-renowned series of wave-chiseled
rock formations; the London Bridge,
which looked like the real thing until the
middle portion crashed into the ocean in
1990; and the Loch Ard Gorge. Before
you hit Port Fairy, stop in the Aboriginal-run
Tower Hill Nature Preserve (&03/55615315;
www.worngundidj.org.au).

The Great Ocean Road officially ends in
Warrnambool. If you want to try the curves
going the other direction, turn around and
head back toward Melbourne. But even
adventure junkies need a break sometimes.
If you’ve had enough adrenaline for
one trip, take the easier inland route back
and head an hour north into the rural
Southern Grampians Ranges. You can
stay next to a fully operating sheep station
at the Royal Mail Hotel’s Mt. Sturgeon
Cottages (& 03/5577-2241; www.royal
mail.com.au). —JS

Great Ocean Road Visitors Centre
(& 03/5275-5797; www.greatoceanrd.
org.au).
WHEN TO GO: Anytime, but particularly
in the summer and fall (Nov–May).


GREAT JOURNEYS
Melbourne Airport, approx. an hour$$–$$$
Great Ocean Eco-Lodge,
long drive from the eastern start of the Cape Otway (& 03/5237-9297; www.
Great Ocean Road.capeotwaycentre.com.au). $$ Sea Foam
Villas, Port Campbell (& 03/5598-6413;
www.seafoamvillas.com).

Hitting the Road 288
The Amalfi Drive
Hugging the Curves on Italy’s Raciest Road
Sorrento to Salerno, Italy
Most Italians don’t just drive; they race.
They tailgate, pass other cars with inches
to spare between them, and lean on the
horn—all of which makes getting behind
the wheel on Italian roads challenging at
best and terrifying at worst. But their recklessness
won’t stop you from taking the
most adrenaline-inducing road trip in

The Amalfi Drive.


Europe. Just remember to drive carefully.
Very carefully.

The hairpin curves on the Amalfi Drive
(Rte. 163), running from Sorrento to
Salerno, are racetrack worthy. This feat of
engineering and construction takes you
twisting and turning high above the spectacular
Mediterranean coastline, so close
to the edge that you might get a few
twinges of vertigo. Don’t think about getting
on a tour bus here; adventure junkies
will want to be in control here, experiencing
the tight turns, even if it takes a whiteknuckled
grip. (It does, however, help to
have a trusted copilot with you, so you can
take an occasional break and soak in the
dramatic scenery along the way.)

Starting in Sorrento, the Amalfi Drive
takes you up to Sant’Agata Sui Due Golfi
along the Sorrentine peninsula, offering
views of the Bay of Naples and the Bay of
Salerno. As you follow along pavement
that clings to the rock face, with few roadside
railings to give any illusion of safety,
you’ll gasp at the striking azure water and
sandy alcoves far below, before being
wowed by the quaint pastel-hued villages
cascading down steep mountainsides.
When you arrive in Positano, stop over
for a night or consider returning after you
see more of the coast. The cafes and boutiques
are admittedly overpriced here, but
this village is the quintessential Amalfi
Coast of postcard fame. Exploring the
town by foot is a worthy side trip. You’ll
pass olive and lemon groves as you hike

226


MACKENZIE RIVER ICE ROAD

upward, past donkeys and perhaps a pickup
soccer game. Make sure to enjoy a leisurely
lunch at the unnamed restaurant in
the hamlet of Nocelle.

From Positano, it’s about a 30-minute
drive to Amalfi, a historically important
trading port, a UNESCO World Heritage
Site, and a chic beach resort area. Check
out the breathtaking Duamo di San’t
Andrea, and climb the steps to see its
bronze door that was cast during the 11th
century. It’s also worth taking some time
to explore the town’s narrow side streets
with their unique Moorish-influenced
whitewashed houses.

Back in the car, heading east, you’ll
have to negotiate a dramatic stretch of
road that curves through the Valley of the
Dragon for about 6km (33. miles) before

4coming upon Ravello, a town with a serious
medieval history and views that
inspired writers ranging from D.H. Lawrence
to Gore Vidal. It’s probably best
known for its gardens at Villa Cimbrone
and Villa Rufolo, which are both open to
the public year-round. From here, you can
complete the drive by continuing on to the
port city of Salerno.

Hitting the Road289
MacKenzie River Ice Road
Driving on Frozen Water
Northwest Territories, Canada
If you still haven’t had enough of the
treacherous roadway, head back the way
you came and spend some more time
along the coast. For a faster and more
direct route, opt for the tamer A3 highway,
which cuts back toward Naples.
Whichever way you choose, settle into a
hotel for at least 1 night and as your heartbeat
slows, reward yourself for surviving
the Amalfi obstacle course with a welldeserved
glass of wine and a heaping
plate of linguini topped with fresh seafood.
—JS

Italian Government Tourist Board
(www.enit.it) and the Sorrento tourist
office, Via Luigi de Maio 35, Sorrento
(&081/807-4033; www.sorrentotourism.
com).
WHEN TO GO: Anytime, weather permitting.



Naples airport.
$$ Casa Albertina, Via Travolozza, 3
(& 39/089-811-540; www.casalbertina.
it). $$$ Le Sirenuse, Via C. Colombo, 30
(&39/089-875-066; www.sirenuse.it).


Hold the wheel gently but firmly and be
prepared to deal with a skid where it’s
slick as glass. Expect a bumpy ride where
the road’s surface looks like frozen waves.
They may actually be frozen waves, created
by the undulating surface of the
Beaufort Sea underneath the temporary
ice road that connects Inuvik and Tuktoyaktuk,
in the Northwest Territories, in
the winter. The roughly 250 km-long (155mile)
ice road is a plowed road-width
swath on the surface of frozen MacKenzie
River that extends for a short stint on the

Beaufort Sea. This public road, maintained
by the Territorial Department of Transportation,
is the wintertime earth-bound link
between two towns north of the Arctic
Circle. (During the summer, you’ll have to
fly or take a boat from one town to the
other.) To traverse it in winter is as exciting
as it is dangerous.

Truckers who use this road in the winter
to deliver supplies have described it as
one of the most desolate, barren roads
they’ve ever driven because you can drive
for so many miles without seeing anything

227


GREAT JOURNEYS

other than a frozen landscape. Their discussions
about the experience and challenges
of driving this road, and the images
shown during the television series Ice
Road Truckers attracted the attention of
travelers who now want to drive this road,
too. The road usually opens in late December
or January, when the ice is deemed
thick enough. But, because it’s a road built
on water that is constantly moving underneath,
especially along the portion that
goes over the sea, the depth and state of
the ice are constantly monitored. Pay
attention to the speed limits. They are
chosen for drivers’ safety, because holes
can open in the road if cross current are
created in the water under the ice by
speeding traffic.

The town of Inuvik, built on permafrost,
is two degrees above the Arctic Circle
alongside the MacKenzie Delta, Canada’s
largest freshwater delta close to the Arctic
Ocean. Large town buildings are erected on
piles driven into the ice and, because the
climate can’t sustain outdoor vegetable or
flower growth, a big communal greenhouse
is housed in a Quonset-style hockey
rink. The two main tourist sites in town are

Hitting the Road 290
Motorcycle Adventures
Riding with the Wind
Western and Southwestern United States and Mexico
the Lady of Victory Roman Catholic Church,
which looks like a huge igloo, and the
Ingamo Friendship Centre, the largest log
structure north of the Arctic Circle. If you’re
seeking adventure in remote locales, start
here then take the ice road to Tuktoyaktuk,
a tiny Inuvialuit community. Adventurous
tourists can go dog sledding, watch the
Northern Lights, and go cross-country
skiing around both towns. You could plan a
drive to experience Inuvik’s annual Muskrat
Jamboree winter festival, the first weekend
in April. —LF

Spectacular Northwest Territories
(& 800-661-0778; www.spectacularnwt.
com). Request a map of the province and
The Explorers Guide, which lists lodging
and outfitters. Inuvik (& 867/777-8600;
www.inuvik.ca)
WHEN TO GO: Jan–Apr, ice permitting.
Inuvik.
$$ Arctic Chalet, 25 Carn St., Inuvik
(&800/685-9417 or 867/777-3535; www.
arcticchalet.com). $$$ Mackenzie Hotel,
185 Mackenzie Rd., Inuvik (& 867/7772861;
www.mackenziedeltahotel.com).


You’re astride a Honda XR250, tucked in,
heart in your mouth as you go flat out
across a dried lakebed in the Baja—then
one of the other riders zips past you! No,
you’re not riding in the Baja 500 or 1000.
You’re on a motorcycle adventure trip that
takes you from town streets over sand,
down dry washes, up mountains, across
deserts, and across dry lake bottoms.
When you’re on the all-inclusive Baja
Adventure tour with Chris Haines Motorcycle
Adventure Company, speeds
range from slow in the more technical

areas to as fast as you want to push your
machine.

The trip originates in San Diego, California.
You’ll go by van to Ensenada, Mexico,
and spend 3 days riding off-road bikes
approximately 500 miles (805km) through
Baja, Mexico, partly on the Baja 1000
course. Longer trips are also available,
which can provide the opportunity to see
the Sierra de San Francisco rock art. The
equipment, meals along the way, and
scenery are all first-rate.

228


TOURING ROUTE 40

Haines, your guide, won the Baja 1000
more than a dozen times, but you don’t
have to be a racer to enjoy this trip.
Groups are made up of novices, intermediates,
and expert riders. Outriders from the
company help beginners through tricky
areas and ensure the headcount is correct
at the end of the day. Support vehicles
carry gear, spare parts, and equipment.

Another company, Elite Motorcycle
Adventures, runs day trips and point-topoint
trips through some of the most
beautiful country in the western United
States. Trips leaving from Moab, Utah,
take you through canyons past natural
arches and old homestead cabins, along
rivers, and through the red sandstone
country. The company’s Barlett Slickrock
Tour takes you over age-hardened sandstone
and provides a unique opportunity
to test the limits of your riding skills. The
Dubinky Desert Trail ride will leave you
awestruck by the beauty of parts of Utah
that relatively few have seen. Elite will take
novice and expert racers on their tours,
providing separate guides based upon
rider ability. For touring trips there are

Hitting the Road291
Touring Route 40
Dear Motorcycle Diary
Argentina
numerous companies. Rocky Mountain
Motorcycle Holidays in North Vancouver,
British Columbia, Canada, provides
guided tours through western Canada and
the western United States. Ayres Adventure
Travel, based in Plano, Texas, offers
tours in the United States, Alaska, Africa,
Canada, Europe, South American and New
Zealand. —LF

Chris Haines Motorcycle Adventure
Company (& 866/262-8635; www.
bajaoffroadtours.com). Elite Motorcycle
Adventures (&435/259-7621; www.elite
motorcycletours.com). Ayres Adventures
(& 877/275-8238; www.ayres
adventures.com). Rocky Mountain
Motorcycle Holidays (&888/299-5534;
http://rockymtnmoto.com).
WHEN TO GO: Sept–May for Baja; Mar–
Nov for Utah.
San Diego International Airport, Canyon
Lands Field.
In general, tour companies make
lodging arrangements.


Spectacular glaciers glowing blue in the
moonlight of the Andes. Vast sundrenched
plains, home to some of the
best wineries in the world. Prehistoric
cave paintings in isolated canyons where
condors swirl overhead. If you’re ready for
hundreds of adventures like these on the
trip of a lifetime, try motorcycling down
Route 40 through Argentina. Passing
through 20 national parks, 27 Andean
mountain passes, and over 18 major rivers,
this is journey not easily forgotten.

Tours along this fabled roadway (made
famous by Che Guevara’s The Motorcycle

Diaries) usually begin in Salta, in the northern
part of the country. From there, it’s
about 3 to 4 weeks of riding until you
reach your journey’s end 6,900km (4,300
miles) south in Ushuaia, the southernmost
city in the world, located deep in Tierra
del Fuego. Air transportation is usually
arranged between these two cities and
the capital city, Buenos Aires.

This is not an entry-level motorcycle
trip. Besides the length of the journey and
the time involved, you’ll pass through several
climate zones, from the searing heat
of the Patagonian desert to the sub-zero

229


GREAT JOURNEYS

alpine conditions in the Andes. Nor is
Route 40—locally known at Ruta 40 or “La
Cuarenta”—a smooth lane of blacktop:
Expect hours of bone-rattling washboard
road conditions, vast clouds of dust, and
mud that will stick to your bike, your
clothes, and your skin long after your ride
is over. Distances between towns can be
vast, and riders should be expected to
endure the occasional hardship with the
adventure traveler’s secret weapon: a
sense of humor.

But those who can weather the hazards
of this journey are rewarded with unforgettable
thrills. Packs of wild guanacos
(cousins of the llama) crossing the roadway
are a familiar sight. The towering
spires of Fitz Roy, Cerro Torre, and other
snow-capped Andean mountains loom

overhead, because much of Route 40 follows
the eastern spine of the Andes. The
pristine beauty of the Perito Moreno glacier
makes a visit to Los Glaciares National
Park a must (see ). And the legendary
hospitality of Argentine estancias
(ranches), with sublime regional wines,
and world-class food, await weary riders
at each stop along the way. —ML

TOURS: Overland Patagonia (&02944/
438654; www.overlandpatagonia.com).
Adventure Motorcycle Tours (& 760/
249-1105; www.admo-tours.com). Lef
Expeditions (info@lefexpeditions.com;
www.lefexpeditions.com).

WHEN TO GO: Nov–Apr.

Hitting the Road 292
Vietnam by Motorbike
Next Stop Is Vietnam
Vietnam
If you’re ready for a truly epic adventure,
visiting an ancient land steeped in history,
beauty, and bloodshed, it would be hard
to beat a motorbike tour through Vietnam.
Traveling by motorbike can take you to
places cars and buses can’t visit, and gives
visitors to this magical land a taste of local
life that few Westerners will ever experience.
From the frenzied blur of Hanoi and
Ho Chi Minh City (formerly Saigon) to the
serene beauty of remote mountain temples,
the journey of a lifetime awaits those
willing to trade the comfort of a resort spa
for a mud-splattered motorcycle helmet.

Most tours of Vietnam begin in Hanoi or
Ho Chi Minh, and concentrate on the northern
reaches of the country, where the more
mountainous terrain yields spectacular vistas
and unexpected treasures in villages
once considered inaccessible. Depending
on your itinerary and your spirit of adventure,
you could also consider a trip across

the border into Laos and/or Cambodia;
some motorbike tours offer this as an
option, and most will custom-design a tour
depending on the group’s interests.

What, you might ask, is there to see in
this formerly war-torn region? Pristine
tropical beaches, lush pine forests, towering
limestone mountains, and thundering
waterfalls are all part of the natural scenery.
Crowded markets where vendors
hawk exotic jewelry, embroidery, and
local delicacies like grilled snake kabob are
a regular sight. Picturesque stilt houses,
rice paddies, and lumbering water buffalo
dot the countryside.

Of course, you can expect to get a little
dirty on any real motorcycle trip, and with
roads that range from spanking-new
expressways to mud paths, Vietnam
has plenty of dirt to throw in your face.
Add to that the grime you’ll get on your
hands from trying to fix the 1950s-era

230


FOUR-WHEEL DRIVES IN COLORADO

engine on your Russian-made Minsk rental
motorbike, and you’ll have tales that will
last much longer than the grit in your
teeth. —ML

Vietnam Motorbike Tours (&84/58282092;
www.vietnammotorbiketours.
websyte.com.au). Offroad Vietnam (&844/
3904-5049; www.offroadvietnam.com).
Hitting the Road293
Four-Wheel Drives in Colorado
Riding on the Edge in Telluride
Telluride, Colorado, U.S.A.
WHEN TO GO: Sept–Dec.
Hanoi or Ho Chi Minh City, depending
on which tour you choose.
$$$ Grand Hotel, 8–24 Dong Khoi
St., Ho Chi Minh City (& 08/823-0163;
www.grandhotel.com.vn). $$ Army
Hotel, 33C Pham Ngu Lao St., Hanoi (&04/
825-2896; armyhotel@fpt.vn).

As you slowly make your way up the narrow,
crumbling Tomboy Road outside of
Telluride, Colorado, don’t make the mistake
of looking down. Your truck’s wheels
may be less than a foot from the edge of
the road and the oblivion below. The road,
which was originally a Ute Indian Trail,
winds its way from the Town of Telluride
up to Imogene Pass at 13,100 feet
(3,900m). Up until around 1925 it was the
primary route to the gold and silver mines
high on the mountainside, and was traversed
by periodic stagecoach runs and
lots of mule-pulled wagons hauling supplies
and ore. Today, although officially a
county road, it’s a narrow, moderately difficult
four-wheel-drive road that is not well
maintained. Traversing it, though dangerous,
is a real thrill.

Vehicles bounce over large and often
sharp rocks—this is not the road for a
Cadillac or a BMW sedan—around blind
corners, and along continuous twists and
turns. It really gets interesting when two
vehicles meet (the vehicle heading uphill
always has the right of way). Though the
tour companies have specialized vehicles
with heavy-duty tires and suspensions, on
any given day you may see Jeeps and
Range Rovers inching up the road. Most of
the vehicles have to stop at times, so hikers
and mountain bikers can safely

squeeze by. This rough road is not a recommended
trip for novice off-roaders.

Atop the road is the ghost town that
housed the miners working in the Tomboy
Mine, which is not far from the summit.
Along the road you’ll pass through the
“Social Tunnel,” a favorite location for the
miners to meet with the prostitutes who
made the trip up from town. You’ll also see
the cables that were strung between rocks
to stop the mules and their wagons from
taking their last one-way trip down. The
ghost town still has many deteriorating
buildings, the pilings from the miners dormitory,
old cable, broken bottles, timbers,
and other remnants of a day when “environmentally
friendly” was not a part of the
lexicon.

You might consider going on a tour and
learning the history associated with the
mines and how they operated. For example,
while mine owners made millions, the
hard rock miners were paid $3 per day
and, as might be imagined, there was considerable
labor strife and union busting.
When the Ames power plant was built, the
mines in this area became the first commercial
users of alternating current. Of
particular interest were the huge cable
car-like pieces of equipment in which they
would load the ore and let gravity take it to
the mill in the valley below. The weight of

231


GREAT JOURNEYS

the ore heading down brought the empty,
or supply and miner laden, buckets back
up the mountain.

In addition to the trip to the Tomboy,
there are jeep tours to Ophir Pass and the
Alta ghost town, Black Bear Pass, with its
fields of summer flowers, and Bridal Veil
Falls, Colorado’s highest.

Telluride became a ski town in 1972 and
has grown to a full functioning resort community.
In town are excellent lodging and
dining possibilities. A relatively new village
on the mountain can be reached from
town by gondola, eliminating the need for
a vehicle in town. There are festivals
almost every week in the summer, and
such activities as golf, river rafting, hiking,
and mountain biking will keep you as busy
as you wish. —LF

Hitting the Road 294
Snowmobiling & Mountain
Sledding the U.P.
Ride with Yooupers
Upper Peninsula of Michigan, U.S.A.
Telluride Tourism Board (& 888/
605-2578; www.visittelluride.com).
TOURS: Telluride Outside, 121 W. Colorado
Ave. (& 800/831-6230 or 970/7283895;
www.tellurideoutside.com).
Telluride Sports Adventure Desk, 150

W. Colorado Ave. (& 800/828-7547 or
970/728-4477; www.telluridesports.com).
WHEN TO GO: Summer for 4x4 touring.
Telluride Regional Airport or Montrose.
$$ New Sheridan Hotel, 231 W.
Colorado Ave. (& 800/200-1891 or
970/728-5024; www.newsheridan.com).
$$$ Capella Telluride, 568 Mountain
Village Blvd. (& 970/369-0880; www.
capellatelluride.com).

The spray of snow flying over your windshield
while mountain sledding (snowmobiling
off-road) is a rush akin to that a skier
experiences going through deep powder.
But even if you prefer to stay on snowmobile
trails, instead of powering through the
woods, you’ll still get your kicks. Imagine
your surprise as you come around a corner
and a moose is blocking your way!

Yooupers, residents of the Upper Peninsula
of Michigan, which is commonly
referred to as the U.P., know they live in
some of the best snowmobiling country in
the nation. In many parts of the U.P.,
which covers almost 16,500-square-miles,
snowfall exceeds 20 feet during a winter.
This makes for excellent snowmobiling
and mountain sledding conditions.

With fewer than 350,000 people in the
U.P., most of the communities are small
and in the winter the economies are heavily
dependent on snowmobiling. Locals
have built and maintain thousands of miles
of snowmobile trails throughout the U.P.
More adventurous types are eager to
explore off-road, so mountain sledding in
the powder has also become a popular
pastime and tourist interest. More physically
demanding than trail riding, there are
dangers associated with mountain sledding
and it should be done in groups only
after safety training.

Newberry, Michigan, designated the
official Moose Capital of Michigan and
located in the eastern third of the U.P, has
hundreds of miles of groomed, marked
snowmobile trails and it’s surrounded by

232


SNOWMOBILING & BICYCLING

state and national forests. It’s a great
place to go for a ride. If you go snowmobiling
around Newberry, take a ride to the
Tahquamenon Falls. Whether the falls
are frozen or running, when there’s snow
on the trees and ground both the upper
and lower falls are gorgeous and a photographer’s
dream. A ride through the
Tahquamenon Falls State Park could result
in sighting moose, black bear, deer, otter,
mink, and beaver. Early in the morning or
in the evening you might even see eagles
fishing at the lower falls when they’re not
frozen. It was along the shores of the
Tahquamenon River that Longfellow’s
Hiawatha built his canoe.

From Newberry, you can also go snowmobiling
at the gorgeous Pictured Rocks
National Lakeshore, with its sandstone
walls and formations. In the winter,
unplowed roads are often open to snowmobiles,
including the roads to the famous
Miner’s Castle formation. The frozen
waters of Lake Superior and Grand Sable
Lake are also open to snowmobiles—ice

conditions permitting—and the wideopen
terrain can provide for a thrilling
time. If you want to take a break from
snowmobiling, there are numerous opportunities
for snowshoeing, cross-country
skiing, and dog sledding. —LF

Upper Peninsula Snowmobiling
(http://upsnowmobiling.com). Newberry,
Michigan (www.newberrymichigan.net).
Tahquamenon Falls State Park (www.
exploringthenorth.com/tahqua/tahqua).
Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore

(&906/387-4025; www.nps.gov/piro).
TOUR: U.P. Rental, Newberry (& 906/
293-5515; www.uprental.com).

WHEN TO GO: Dec–Mar.


Chippewa County International Airport
(68 miles/110km). Sault Ste. Marie (67
miles/108km).


$ Sno-Shu Inn, P.O. Box 67, Hulbert
(&906/876-2324; www.exploringthenorth.
com/snoshu/sno).

Hitting the Road295
Snowmobiling & Bicycling
The Paul Bunyan Trail
Brainerd, Minnesota, U.S.A.
The story about Paul Bunyan, the giant
mid-Western lumberjack, is a tall tale, but
the promise that you’ll enjoy exploring the
100-mile-long Paul Bunyan Trail is real. In
winter, snowmobilers and cross-country
skiers travel along this snowy freeway that
stretches from Brainerd to Bemidji, Minnesota,
passing through several logging
towns. In summer, the converted railroad
bed is a popular bicycling and hiking trail.
No matter what time of year you decide to
go, you won’t be let down. This stretch of
trail offers year-round excitement to anyone
who ventures to this mid-west hotbed
of outdoor fun.

You don’t have to cover the entire
length of the trail during a vacation,
because there are 14 towns along the way
where you can stop for lunch, explore
local sites, or spend the night. Summer or
winter, many people choose one of the
towns as “home base,” a make day trips
from there.

If you want to travel the entire trail in
the winter, start in Brainerd and plan on 3
to 4 days for the snowmobile ride to Bemidji.
You’ll want to stop in some of the small
towns along the way. In these towns you’ll
find local craft shops—where you can pick
up hand-knitted mittens and a scarf (you’ll

233


GREAT JOURNEYS


Snowmobiling in the Brainerd Lakes area, Minnesota.


need them for Minnesota’s cold winters)—
museums and restaurants run by
friendly locals. When the snow falls, trail
conditions are posted weekly. Snowmobile
rentals are available in several towns.

Along the way you might be tempted to
explore some of the 1,200 miles (1,900km)
of networked trails in the Brainerd Lakes
Area, go downhill skiing at Ski Gull, or try
the cross-country and snowshoe trails at
the Northland Arboretum. In many of the

towns along the Paul Bunyan Trail, shorter
snowmobile routes branch off into forests
and across ice-capped lakes. For a slowerpaced,
but equally exciting brand of winter
fun, head to the annual Ice Fishing
Competition on Gull Lake sponsored by
the Brainerd Jaycees. Contestants brave
the bitter cold to be the first to catch a fish
(and hopefully a sizeable one) in the frozen-
over lake. The competition attracts
thousands and the prizes equal $150,000.

If you want a break, park your snowmobile
at the Grand View Lodge on Gull
Lake and sample other kinds of winter
sports. The friendly staff at the lodge can
arrange dog sledding, cross-country skiing,
snow tubing, or downhill skiing outings.
Then have sore muscles soothed in
the resort’s Glacial Waters Spa. In
warmer weather, an array of watersports
awaits visitors at Grand View Lodge.

In the summer, many hikers and bikers
like to overnight in one of the towns along
the Paul Bunyan Trail and make day trips.
With a car, it’s easy to take your bike to
other points on the trail. In this area there
are lots of lakes where you can enjoy
boating, swimming, and other water
sports. —LF

Paul Bunyan Trail (www.paulbunyan
trail.com). Minnesota Tourism (& 800/
657-3700 or 651/296-5029; www.explore
minnesota.com).
WHEN TO GO: Year-round.
Brainerd Lakes Regional Airport.
$$–$$$ Grand View Lodge, 23521
Nokomis Ave. (& 866/801-2951 or 218/
963-2234; www.grandviewlodge.com).



6 Camps & Schools 6 Camps & Schools

CAMPS & SCHOOLS

296
Alligator Wrestling Lessons
Gator Bait
Monte Vista, Colorado, U.S.A.
What’s 9 feet long, weighs 600 pounds,
has 80 razor-sharp teeth, and wants to kill
you? Why, the alligator that you’re holding
in your arms, of course. Few adventures
can match the thrill of grappling with a
prehistoric beast to see who comes out on
top, and who will give up a pound of flesh.
Not all who try to wrestle a gator walk
away unscathed—most folks who’ve tangled
with alligators for a while have the
scars to prove it, and possibly a missing
finger or two.

Think you’re ready to wrestle with one
of nature’s most successful meat eaters?
Then head to Monte Vista, Colorado,
where alligator wrestling lessons and
other thrills are available at Colorado
Gators, described as the home of the biggest
gators in the West. While there are
still plenty of places in the swampy South
to watch alligators and the men and
women who wrestle them, none can provide
you the up-close-and-personal intimacy
of grabbing your very own
carnivorous reptile that Colorado Gators
offers every weekend (Fri–Sun). Be sure to
sign up at least a week in advance, and
wear clothes that you won’t mind getting
muddy—or bloody. You’ll start the 4-hour
course handling smaller alligators, gradually
working your way up to the big 9-foot
(12m) beasts.

Heated by geothermal waters, the
attraction was originally founded as a

tilapia fish farm, and alligators were
brought in to act as “garbage disposals.”
(The site is still an active fish farm, providing
fish to Denver-area restaurants.)
Gators have now been joined by emus,
tortoises, pythons, and other exotic animals
that were either abandoned by their
owners or retired from Hollywood
careers—one gator named Morris has
starred in several movies and television
programs.

If you’d rather leave the gator wrangling
to others, you can still get your
hands on a number of other reptiles
(including baby alligators) in a 3-hour reptile
handling program. Other species
thrive here, too—because the site is home
to a geothermal wetland, it acts as a kind
of bird-watcher’s paradise for a number of
rarely seen bird species. —ML

Gator Farm Alligator Wrestling
(&719/378-2612; www.gatorfarm.com).
WHEN TO GO: Year-round.
Denver (250 miles/40km).
$ Best Western Movie Manor,
2830 U.S. Hwy. 160 W. (&719/852-5921;
www.bestwesterncolorado.com). $ Monte
Villa Inn, 925 First Ave. (&719/852-5166;
www.montevillainnbudgethost.com).

Previous page: Roping cattle at Cowgirl Camp.

236


COVERT OPS TRAINING CAMP

297
Covert Ops Training Camp
Unleash Your Inner James Bond
Undisclosed Location Outside Tucson, Arizona, U.S.A.
You’re sitting in your chair listening to the
conference speaker drone on when
WHAM! The door to the room is kicked
open and six rifle-toting men in black ski
masks march in. Amid the spray of gunfire,
everyone hits the floor except one of your
group—he is attacked and dragged from
the room as a hostage. Panic situation?
For weaker men and women, perhaps, but
your nerves are steady as a rock, because
you’re in your third day of covert ops training,
and have been prepped in how to
keep your cool during hostage taking, terrorist
activity, hand-to-weapon combat,
and other Rambo-esque skills. You know
that now’s the time to implement your
hostage-recovery strategy. Let’s roll!

The adventure begins as soon as you
arrive at Tucson International Airport,
where you’re instructed to meet a beautiful
blonde at the airport lounge. Using
coded language, she will transmit to you
the instructions for meeting your transport
to the former CIA training facility in
the desert. Your 2- or 3-day package is no
luxury spa: Rooms are comfortable but
spartan, meals are filling but not gourmet,
and your day begins at dawn whether
you’re ready or not. Attendees (no more
than 20 are admitted per session) can
expect a full slate of training in the activities
that would come in handy in a terrorist
attack or military coup: gunning a fast


attack vehicle down a dirt road, closequarter
handgun training, martial arts, and
high-speed evasive driving.

The highlight of your training comes in
the aforementioned hostage-taking situation.
You have just a few hours to determine
the terrorists’ hideout location, arm
yourself with paintball weapons, develop
a tactical strategy, and move in for hostage
rescue operation without getting
“killed” or losing the hostage.

If this is all sounding a little like Bond,
James Bond, it’s no accident. The men
behind Covert Ops sport resumes with
years of real-world experience in international
“situations” such as espionage with
the Green Berets in Southeast Asia, African
mercenary operations, seventhdegree
black belt karate training, and
Navy SEAL experience. It might seem
intimidating, but if some mano-a-mano
action is what you need to inspire your
business colleagues or to make it through
another weekend with your family, consider
one of their group packages. —ML

Covert Ops (&800-644-7382; www.
incredible-adventures.com/covert1.html).
WHEN TO GO: Whenever the international
situation becomes dangerously
unstable.


Tucson International Airport.

237


CAMPS & SCHOOLS

298
Cowgirl Camp
The Wild Women’s West
Gila, New Mexico, U.S.A.
Ridin’, ropin’, and round-ups are timehonored
traditions of cowboy culture, but
women have often been excluded from
these aspects of life in the American West.
Now’s your chance to settle that old score,
ladies. In the spectacular mountains of
New Mexico, surrounded by ancient cliff
dwellings and sun-dappled woodlands,
the Double E Ranch offers tenderfoot
cowgirls and old hands alike an invigorating
authentic western experience on a
working cattle ranch.

Cowgirl Camp lasts a week and includes
meals, accommodations, and plenty of
chances to work on your horsemanship
(horsewomanship?) skills. Women who
expect to be pampered in a luxurious, spatype
environment are advised to saddle
up and move on out; the women at the
Double E are there to participate in daily
ranch activities, including cutting cattle,
rounding up strays—there’s even a minirodeo
with barrel-racing and other events.
Women with no horseback experience are
welcome, and with a guest capacity of just
18, you’ll have more one-on-one attention
than at some other guest ranches. There’s
also a Level II camp for ladies with a bit
more riding experience. The price for the
camp is reasonable, running about $1,500
a week in 2009.

It’s not all hard work, however. In addition
to plush comforters, air-conditioning,

coffee service, and thick towels in guest
quarters, meals feature hearty ranch fare
and fresh-baked desserts. And there are
plenty of chances for hiking, nature rides,
bird-watching, exploring the ancient
Native American culture of the region, or
just curling up with a good book.

Cowgirl Camp is just one of the activities
scheduled at the Double E. At various
times throughout the year, the ranch also
hosts mounted shooting clinics, horsemanship
clinics, rides to Native American
ruins—even college-credit courses.

The Double E ranch is adjacent to the
Gila Wilderness and Gila National Forest
(www.fs.usda.gov/gila)—some of the
most awe-inspiring scenery in North
America. Other area attractions include
the historic silver-rush town of Silver City
(www.silvercity.org), the hot springs of
Truth or Consequences (www.truthor
consequencesnm.net), the surreal geology
of City of Rocks State Park (www.
emnrd.state.nm.us/PRD/cityrocks.htm),
and the ghost town of Chloride, N.M. —ML

Double E Ranch (& 866/242-3500;
www.doubleeranch.com).
WHEN TO GO: Cowgirl Camps are offered
throughout the year; check website for
schedule.


Silver City, N.M. (28 miles/45km).

238


DOUG FOLEY’S DRAG RACING SCHOOL

299
Doug Foley’s Drag Racing School
Start Your Engines!
Cities throughout the U.S.A.
The green flag waves, and you’re off!
Smoke from squealing tires fills your nostrils
as your big-block Chevy engine roars,
and within seconds you’ve reached bluelipped
speeds of over 130 mph (209kmph).
This experience was once limited to experienced
racers like Mario Andretti and
Doug Foley, but the thrill of drag racing
can now be enjoyed by anyone—even
teenagers—at Doug Foley’s Drag Racing
School.

The schools, which started in 1997 in
Atco, New Jersey, are now located
throughout the U.S. There are a range of
courses available to speedsters, including
half-day Dragster Experience, 2-day Super
Comp, and—for those who’d rather leave
the driving to others—a Dragster Ride-
Along in a specially built two-seat dragster.
No granny-mobile, the two-seater still
packs 800 horsepower and a couple of
g-forces. And if your need for speed is
unquenchable, the schools also offer a
competition license for students who have
completed the three-run Dragster Experience.
After time trials, racers compete in
three rounds of elimination racing to
determine who will win the championship
and the winner’s commemorative plaque
(champagne not included). Prices vary per
course, ranging from about $150 for a
ride-along to a couple thousand dollars for
multi-day courses.

There are advanced driver training programs
available, but most courses assume
that all attendees are drag racing novices.
With safe driving in mind, courses begin
with a complete safety and procedural
orientation taught by Doug Foley himself,
and each driver is issued state-of-the-art
safety equipment. The Junior Dragster
Racing School is a 2-day course that
involves both students and their parents;
racers go through exhaustive training and
prep work before taking a dragster out
onto the track.

For corporate and personal gifts, client
entertaining, employee incentives, and
private parties, Doug Foley’s Drag Racing
School can provide an unforgettable event
(did someone say bachelor party?). Perks
can include full catered food and beverage
set-ups, track-side photography, custommade
video, T-shirts, and custom company
branding campaigns that include
banner placement, promotional literature—
and a lifetime of memories. —ML

Doug Foley’s Drag Racing School
(& 866/DRAGSTER [37247837] or 856/
753-8000; www.dougfoley.com).
WHEN TO GO: Courses are scheduled
throughout the year nationwide; check
the website for details and schedule.

239


CAMPS & SCHOOLS

300
Congo Camp
Feel the Beat
Maui, Hawaii, and Pike, California, U.S.A.
Whether you’re a drummer, a dancer, or
just excited about joining a group of people
who are, Congo Camp is your chance
to live out your fantasy. Imagine a community
of hundreds of people dedicated
to one thing: drumming, and the dancing
that accompanies it. Whether you’re an
expert Congolese drummer, or a newcomer
looking to share in the fun of dancing
to the ancient rhythms of Africa, Congo
Camp is a great chance to hone your skills
in a friendly, supportive atmosphere. And
the thrill of playing side by side with others
who share your passion only makes the
experience that much more exhilarating.

There are two camps each year; a summer
camp is held in July in the forested
mountain community of Pike, California,
midway between Sacramento and Reno,
Nevada. Winter camp is held in March at
Camp Keanae on the Hawaiian island of
Maui. Each camp lasts about 10 days, but
those who show up for a day or who want
to attend classes on a drop-in basis are
also welcome. Work-study opportunities
are also available. Classes in singing and
dancing as well as drumming are held
several times each day, and there are

more informal sessions held at special
events like the Hawaiian beach party.

Congolese drumming involves much
more than the sound from a musical
instrument—it’s described as an allencompassing,
empowering communal
experience, and the camp reflects that
tradition. Food is served three times a day,
and children are welcomed to participate
in supervised arts and crafts, dance and
musical activities. Indoor and outdoor
camping accommodations are available.
There’s even an African-style marketplace
where vendors display handicrafts, clothing,
jewelry, and more. And for folks who
want to enjoy the atmosphere without
attending classes, the camps welcome
vacationers who simply want to relax,
swim, sunbathe, and soak up the good
vibrations. —ML

Congo Camp (&530/288-3603; www.
congolesecamp.com).
WHEN TO GO: Mar or July; check website
for exact dates.



Sacramento (85 miles/137km) or Maui
(30 miles/48km).

301
Fire Dancing Boot Camp
Baby, Light My Fire
Major Cities across the U.S.A.
Flames are whipping around your head bass groove. A disco inferno? Not
and body in a flash of light and heat while exactly—you’re at fire dancing boot camp,
the speakers are thumping out a rhythmic and you’re learning the ancient art of poi,

240


FIRE DANCING BOOT CAMP


Playing with fire at the Temple of Poi fire dancing boot camp.

having a blast and getting one of the best
workouts of your life. Originally practiced
by the indigenous Maori people of New
Zealand, poi—which translates as “ball”—
was used to enhance strength and flexibility
by men and women alike. The weighted
poi ball is tethered to a rope and swung in
a coordinated rhythm to work out arm,
shoulder, and back muscles. And once
you’ve mastered the initial steps, the poi is
set aflame and suddenly you’re caught up
in a brilliant dance with fire.

Novices are encouraged to take a few
poi classes before attempting fire poi.
(Classes are reasonably priced at around
$20 per class.) In addition to poi, fire
staffs, hoops, and fans can be incorporated,
depending on the class level and
instructor. Boot camps and lessons are
offered in a number of major cities, but
California has earned its reputation as a
hotbed of fire dancing, and well-regarded
schools such as Fire Groove in Los Angeles
(www.firegroove.com), Fire Arts Collective
in Oakland, and San Francisco’s
Temple of Poi (www.templeofpoi.com)
offer a series of boot camps, online

classes, DVDs, performances, private lessons,
and respected instructors with years
of experience and safety training. There
are several levels of classes available,
often with discounts for multi-class series.

Fire dancing has, in just a few years,
gone from being a cult-like practice seen at
alternative art and music festivals like Burning
Man (www.burningman.com; see )
to gaining more mainstream interest. Fire
dancing performers are now in demand at
everything from bachelor parties to corporate
retreats. And long-time practitioners
have embraced fire dancing’s community
spirit, in some cases attesting to the spiritual
dimension of the art form. But newcomers
shouldn’t be put off; beginners
swear it’s a great workout and probably the
most fun you will ever have playing with
fire. —ML

Fire Groove (&323/640-0191; www.
firegroove.com). Fire Arts Collective
(www.fireartscollective.com). Temple of
Poi (&415/543-4911; www.templeofpoi.
com).

CAMPS & SCHOOLS

302
Michael Jordan Flight School
He Shoots, He Scores!
Las Vegas, Nevada, U.S.A.
You’re dribbling down the line, the basketball
hammering the hardwood beneath
your hand, and the hoop is in sight. You’re
just about to take your shot when in front
of you appears . . . Michael Jordan! The
6-foot, 6-inch tower of talent tries to block
your shot, but you’ve got your game on
this afternoon. Fake left, hop right, and
shoot—it’s in. Two points later, His Airness
smiles and shakes your hand. He is,
after all, your coach today.

Since 1997, Michael Jordan, the former
shooting guard for the six-time NBA championship-
winning Chicago Bulls, has been
downloading his awe-inspiring basketball
skills at Michael Jordan Flight School basketball
camps. But if you think “basketball
camp” means worn-out balls, ratty nets,
and smelly locker rooms, think again—
accommodations, equipment, and facilities
at the Las Vegas Mirage Hotel and
Casino are nothing like high school. But
this 4-day camp isn’t a relaxing poolside
retreat. Attendees should be physically fit
and prepared for intense, all-day practice
with elite NBA and Olympic coaches and
players like Larry Brown, Mike Krzyzewski,
Chuck Daly, and Kareem Abdul-Jabbar, as
well as some “air time” with Jordan himself.
In addition to one-on-one sessions
with coaches and players, there are competitive
league games for all players, and

campers who don’t wish to play can still
get involved as assistant coaches.

Despite all the hard work and sweat,
there’s still a little room for some downtime,
and many campers cite the networking
and social events as a prime benefit of
Flight School camps. A cocktail reception,
closing ceremonial brunch, autograph
sessions, a high-stakes poker tournament—
even a ladies’ tea—are on the
schedule. An experience like this doesn’t
come cheap—rates for 2009 were
$17,500—but there are perks aplenty,
including Jordan brand shoes and apparel,
commemorative gifts, photos, videos,
and, best of all, the lifetime bragging rights
to saying, “Yeah, I shot hoops with Michael
Jordan. He’s pretty good.” —ML

Michael Jordan Flight School (&503/
402-8688; www.mjseniorflightschool.
com).
WHEN TO GO: Michael Jordan Flight
School is scheduled annually; check website
for dates.
Las Vegas McCarran International
Airport.
$$$ The Mirage Hotel and Casino,
3400 S. Las Vegas Blvd. (& 702/7917111;
www.mirage.com).

242


JIM GIBSON’S MOTOCROSS TRAINING CAMP

303
Jim Gibson’s Motocross Training Camp
Down & Dirty
Southern California, U.S.A.
Ripping through the dirt, floating through
the air, roaring around a steeply banked
curve—these are the stuff of motocross
dreams. And every year, hundreds of
motocross riders make these dreams
come true at Jim Gibson’s Motocross
Training Camp. To casual spectators,
motocross might look like simple dirt-biking,
but it is in fact an incredibly nuanced
competitive sport that requires discipline,
strategy, and training, as well as considerable
physical endurance and strength.
Spend a little time at Jim Gibson’s and
soon you’ll be flying like the big boys.

Jim Gibson’s Motocross Training Camps
take place at some of Southern California’s
most challenging motocross tracks. The
typical camp lasts 4 or 5 days, costs
around $1,000, and includes everything
from dormitory-style accommodations
and meals to exercise and dieting tips.
Bike rentals are available depending on
availability. The focus here is not on the
freestyle acrobatics that are famous at
events like X Games (see ), but rather
the straight-ahead racing skills that will put
riders in the winner’s circle.

Gibson emphasizes skills like holeshots,
where riders jockey for position early in a
race. Precision braking is another key
strategy, and cornering safely and successfully
can make or break a rider. Physical
conditioning may be more important
here than in any other motorized sport,
because riders are handling 200-pound
(91kg) bikes moving at top speeds
between 50 and 70 mph (81–113kmph),
and the motocross camps give riders
plenty of opportunities for weight training,
running, and gymnastics.

Gibson, a former factory rider for Yamaha
and Honda (big names in motocross), was a
member of the gold medal-winning team at
the 1982 Motocross des Nations event in
Wohlen, Switzerland. He went on to win
several more medals and awards in U.S. and
international motocross. He’s available for
training sessions not only at his motocross
camps, but also for group lessons and private
one-on-one sessions. —ML

Jim Gibson’s Motocross Training
Camp (&951/698-9272; www.jgmxt.com).
WHEN TO GO: Year-round.


Getting dirty at Jim Gibson’s Motocross Training Camp.

243


CAMPS & SCHOOLS

304
Richard Petty Driving Experience
NASCAR Nation
Locations across the U.S.A.
You’re roaring down the track at 140 mph
(225kmph), and up ahead is your first turn,
a steep bank of asphalt that looms before
you like a smooth, paved mountainside.
Underneath the hood are 600 horses of
pure, NASCAR-inspired power. The car
soars into the curve and as you clutch the
wheel with your sweaty grip, the wide,
treadless tire stick to the course like black
glue. Suddenly you realize this may be the
most fun you’ve ever had.

The Richard Petty Driving Experience has
been giving thrills like this to speed junkies
for over 15 years. Starting at the Charlotte
Motor Speedway in North Carolina, the company
capitalized on its success there and has
now expanded to 27 speedways from New
England to Southern California. After arriving
at your chosen track, you’ll be issued a driving
suit, attend a mechanical and safety orientation,
get strapped into your car, and
then hear the four words that set any racetrack
renegade’s heart aflutter: “Drivers,
Start Your Engines!”

There are a range of driving programs
offered by the RPDE, from the Rookie
Experience (eight laps over one session
lasting about 3 hr.) through the Talladega

Super 16 (16 laps over the super-speedway’s
wicked 33-degree banked curves)
up to premiums like the Brickyard Experience
(24 heart-pounding laps on the
famed Indianapolis Motor Speedway).

The RPDE also offers a ride-along program
for folks who’d like to get a taste of
what 165 mph (266kmph) feels like by riding
shotgun in a car driven for three laps
by one of the instructors. The ride-along
option is also offered to folks who aren’t
able to drive a four-speed manual transmission
(required of all solo drivers).

After you and your fellow drivers clamber
out of your stock cars, you’ll be feted in a
closing ceremony, and all attendees receive
a graduation pack with a lap-time sheet and
graduation certificate. The RPDE is also open
to group events and corporate outings, and
can custom-tailor a program to meet anyone’s
need for speed. —ML

Richard Petty Driving Experience
(& 800/BE-PETTY [23-73889]; www.1800
bepetty.com).
WHEN TO GO: Open year-round; check
website for dates and locations.

305
Rock ’n’ Roll Fantasy Camp
So You Wanna Be a Rock & Roll Star?
Locations worldwide
The crowd is roaring, the spotlights are you onstage is Roger Daltrey from The
blazing in your eyes, your ears are ringing Who. Behind you on drums is Alan White
from the towering speakers, and next to from Yes. And on vocals, you’ve got Steven

244


ROCK ’N’ ROLL FANTASY CAMP


Roger Daltrey works with campers at Rock ’n’ Roll Fantasy Camp.

Tyler from Aerosmith and Brian Wilson of
The Beach Boys and . . . wait a minute, what
is this, some kind of rock ’n’ roll fantasy?

Yes, actually, it is—the kind of fantasy
you can only get from Rock ’n’ Roll Fantasy
Camp. There are a number of other rock
music camps out there, but this is the
original and, many say, still the best. The
camps, which last about 5 days, are held in
cities like Los Angeles, New York, Las
Vegas, and London. (One-day camps are
also occasionally offered.) Practice and
recording sessions take place at legendary
sites like Abbey Road Studios in London
and the Capitol Records building in Hollywood.
Best of all, each camp concludes
with a live performance taking place at
classic rock venues like the House of
Blues, Whisky-a-Go-Go, and The Cavern
(where a little combo called The Beatles
got their start some years ago in Liverpool,
England).

The camps, which are popular as gifts
and corporate retreats, are a total immersion
in rock music, and everyone from
novice songwriters and newbie drummers
to ax-shredding, head-banging guitarists
gets to participate in the fun. But there’s
plenty of work involved, too: In addition to
the more than 10 hours of jamming each

day, small group classes are led by professional
musicians (imagine having Ted
Nugent or Bruce Kulick of Kiss as your
teacher!). Master class sessions in bass,
drums, guitar, songwriting, and other
skills are also offered. Campers eat meals
and stay in the same hotel as celebrity
musicians, so there are plenty of opportunities
for one-on-one encounters with
your rock idol.

After registering for Rock ’n’ Roll Fantasy
Camp, each camper is assigned to a band
based on his or her interests and skill level.
Campers practice an original song to be
performed with their band at the final
night’s concert, known as “Campapalooza,”
which is open to the public and recorded
on a DVD, so you can relive your rock ’n’ roll
dream over and over again. All this making
of fantasies come true doesn’t come cheap.
A few days to a week at camp can run you
anywhere from around $4,000 to more
than $10,000. But really, you can’t put a
price on living the dream. —ML

Rock ’n’ Roll Fantasy Camp (&888/
762-2263 or 44/0845-0943256 in the U.K.;
www.rockcamp.com).
WHEN TO GO: Whenever you’re ready to
live the dream.


CAMPS & SCHOOLS

306
Rock Climbing Camp
Rock On
Northern California, U.S.A.
You’ve seen them at the gym, those lean,
muscular types intent on one thing and one
thing only: the rock climbing wall. Is it the
mental challenge of scaling those technically
difficult, dangerous heights that keeps
them so focused? Or is it the sheer physical
endurance and strength that attracts men
and women of all ages to the sport? Find
out for yourself at a professionally run rock
climbing camp located in some of the most
spectacular scenery in North America: the
Sierra Nevada mountains of California.

Camps sponsored by Mountain Adventure
Seminars are available for newcomers
to the sport as well as advanced
rockheads who are looking for some new
peaks to bag. Most last about 2 days, and
are located at various places in the Sierra
Nevadas. Some previous climbing experience—
indoor or out—is expected, and
depending on the location of the base
camp, some backpacking experience and
general outdoor skills may also be required
(this ain’t the Ritz). And if you still have
some energy after a day of climbing, there
are ample bouldering opportunities in
many of the camping areas.

In addition to climbing instruction, you
may be able to take advantage of on-site
“mini-clinics” on topics like climber self-rescue
or anchoring techniques. Class sizes
are strictly limited, so the guide/climber
ratio is ideal (on more advanced camps,
there are two students per guide). Not able
to make it to one of their scheduled camps?
Not to worry: The team of instructors at
MAS also offers private instruction and
guiding for individuals and groups, including
overnight adventures. And if you’re
looking for a great group activity for your
family reunion, scout troop, office staff, or
church group, look to MAS to put together
a great event, whether it involves rock
climbing, snow shoeing, backcountry skiing,
or hiking. —ML

Mountain Adventure Seminars, 148
Bear Valley Rd., Bear Valley, CA (& 209/
753-6556; www.mtadventure.com).
WHEN TO GO: Check website for schedule.
Sacramento, CA, or Reno, NV.


307
Woodward at Copper
720s Off Big Air
Copper, Colorado, U.S.A.
The world is upside down. Now it’s right so you can go back to Big Air, with its
side up again, but you’re floundering in a 43-degree pitch, and try another backflip.
pit of blue foam. Time to grab the over-Elsewhere in the vast Barn at Woodward
head rope and haul yourself out of the pit, at Copper pro freeriders, amateurs, and

246


Practicing tricks at Woodward at Copper. Practicing tricks at Woodward at Copper.
novices are doing somersaults on trampolines,
slingshotting up the 8-foot (2.4m)
wall in the Skate Bowl, and arcing into
720s off a jump.

Jazzed by the loud rock music, the
action is constant at Woodward at Copper,
the year-round ski and snowboard
camp at Copper resort in Colorado. The
20,000-square-foot (1,858 sq. m) barn,
filled with a terrain park and pipe progression,
is the heart of the camp. Inside, the
Gym Cross Zone contains six Flybed trampolines
(three lead into foam), a Tumble
Track in foam, and a Spring Floor. The
Snow Skate Zone has the 35-foot-long
(11m) Big Air drop covered in Snowflex (a
brush-like surface that simulates snow),
with three different-sized jumps that lead
to a foam pit. This zone also has an 8-foot
(2.4m) Cliff Drop into foam, a 5-foot (1.5m)
Skatelite drop into foam, a loose foam pit,


WOODWARD AT COPPER

and a SnowFlex Jib run with rails and
boxes, and a quarter-pipe. The Skatelite
area has a big Skate bowl, and 3- and
5-foot (1 and 1.5m) Mini Ramps.

Snowsliders who want to learn tricks
and moves come here to learn gravitydefying
feats in a controlled environment.
The coaches are medal-winning pro snowboarders,
pro freestylers, and gymnasts.
They take students through a progression
in this setting, where if a student blows an
aerial and lands awkwardly the impact is
blunted by foam instead of unforgiving
snow.

Skiers and snowboarders can sample
the camp in mini-sessions, pick up punch
cards for drop-in sessions, or take multiday
classes. During the winter, Woodward
at Copper runs day sessions; half of the
day is spent in the Barn and the other half
in parks and pipes on the slopes. During
the summer, there are weeklong sessions
for ages 8 through 18, and shorter sessions
for groms (8–12).

Copper, a year-round resort 75 miles
(121km) from Denver, is a small ski village
at the base of the mountain offering 2,450
acres (971 hectares) of skiable terrain. The
parks and pipes here have snagged
awards from Transworld SNOWboarding
magazine. Lots of mountain winter sports
are offered here, from cross-country skiing
and tubing to sleigh rides and dog
sledding. Copper is a good location in the
summer for people who want to hike,
mountain bike, and play golf in the high
country. —LF

Woodward at Copper (& 888/3501544
or 970/968-3400; www.woodward
atcoppercolorado.com).
WHEN TO GO: Year-round.
Denver (75 miles/121km).
For a variety of local options, contact
Copper Mountain Resort lodging (&888/
350-1544 or 888/219-2441; www.copper
colorado.com).



CAMPS & SCHOOLS

308
StuntWorld Action Camp
Be Your Own Stunt Double
Las Vegas, Nevada, U.S.A.
Most folks who come to Las Vegas gamble
with a little cash—or a lot. But a more
action-packed good time awaits those who
would rather gamble on making it out of a
burning building or a high-speed car chase
than surviving an encounter with a onearmed
bandit. If you’ve ever wondered if
you have the right stuff to be a stuntman or
stuntwoman, step right up and take a shot
at StuntWorld Action Camp, created by
stunt legend Check Borden.

The classes take place in a studio just a
few minutes from the Las Vegas strip, and
participants can choose half-day programs
(with two stunt classes) or full-day programs
(with four classes). Full days also include a
catered lunch, because a day of barroom
brawls and jumping out of helicopters really
builds up an appetite. The cost structure
favors groups of 12 or more (a full day runs
about $625 for one person, but only $535
per person if you have 12 or more in your
group), and the events are ideal for corporate
retreats, bachelor and bachelorette
parties, birthdays, and family reunions.

Borden, who has some 300 stunt credits
to his name, has doubled for actors Val
Kilmer, Liam Neeson, and George Clooney.
He’s put together a dizzying variety of

classes: Fight choreography will teach you
the art of giving and receiving a punch in
the face. Rappelling shows you how the
pros jump out of a helicopter and live to
tell about it. Car hits will teach you how to
take a fender to the gut. Precision driving
not only offers a lesson in stunt driving,
but also teaches defensive driving skills
that might come in handy on your daily
commute. And after a class on fire gags,
being engulfed in flames will be a nobrainer.
StuntWorld also has an impressive
list of trainers with years of experience
who act as instructors and safety experts,
ensuring that what happens in Vegas
stays out of the ER. —ML

StuntWorld Action Camp (& 702/
982-5097; www.stuntworldactioncamp.
com).
WHEN TO GO: Open year-round; check
website for class schedules.
Las Vegas.
$$ Las Vegas Hilton, 3000 Paradise
Rd. (&800/732-7117; www.lvhiton.com).
$$ Luxor Las Vegas, 3900 Las Vegas Blvd.

S. (&888/777-0188; www.luxor.com).
309
Survival Skills Weekend
Stayin’ Alive
Verona, New York, U.S.A.
The hiking trail you were on has disap-sound you can hear is the howling of a
peared in a dense woodland, and dark-distant wolf. Quick—what’s the most
ness is gathering around you. The only important tool you’ll need to survive in the

248


TORNADO CHASING

wilderness? Dry matches? Water? A flashlight?
Actually, it’s none of these things
(though each is good to have on hand).
The answer to survival questions like these
is familiar to graduates of the Survival
Skills Weekend courses, held in a 200-acre
(81-hectare) private wilderness in upstate
New York.

There are many wilderness survival
schools, but John D. McCann’s series of
Survival Skills weekends (there are three
levels, beginner to advanced) stands out
for its hands-on, deep-woods approach
and the practical experience he brings to
his students. A former Marine drill instructor,
McCann is also the author of Build the
Perfect Survival Kit, the first book of its
kind. The 48-hour weekend courses are
limited to a maximum of 10 students and
cover everything from water purification
and squirrel trapping to clever ways to
start a fire, like connecting the positive
and negative ends of a cellphone battery
with a length of steel wool—the steel wool
will ignite. (Kids, don’t try this at home!)
Campers are asked to bring their own

310
Tornado Chasing
Whirlwind Tour
Great Plains, U.S.A.
food, clothing, and basic camping equipment;
a cookout dinner is provided for all
on Saturday night.

Though it sounds like a lot of serious
work—and much of it is—participants also
rave about the fun and excitement involved
in the survival experience, otherwise
known as bushcraft. McCann also helps
students avoid the pitfall of buying a lot of
unnecessary or overpriced equipment they
won’t need. A CD, for example, is reflective
enough to signal a passing plane, and an
Altoids tin comes in handy as a makeshift
frying pan. But the most useful piece of
survival equipment, according to McCann,
is the one you’re least likely to forget at
home—your brain. —ML

Survival Skills (& 845/471-2434;
www.bepreparedtosurvive.com).
WHEN TO GO: Courses are scheduled
throughout the year; check website for
dates.


Albany International Airport (113
miles/182km).

The day started out clear and bright, but
by noon the skies have darkened, and
ominous storm clouds now block the sun.
A few raindrops splatter on the windshield
as you race across the prairie, following a
tip from the satellite tracking system. You
and your fellow adventurers scan the horizon,
looking for signs of trouble, when the
clouds in the western sky begin spinning
around in a slow, deadly waltz. Then, like a
dark sword, a funnel cloud dips toward the
earth, and the race begins—you’re chasing
after a tornado!

Ever since Twister tore into movie theaters
in 1995, tornado chasing has gained a

new cachet, and a number of professional
outfits have sprung up around the Midwest
offering storm chasing tours. Prices and
schedules can vary widely, but most offer
van or SUV-based tours lasting a few days
to a couple of weeks (prices can run close
to $3,000 for a tour), usually during the
peak months of May through July. The better
companies offer tours led by qualified
meteorologists and researchers who,
backed by years of experience and a dazzling
array of high-tech equipment, have a
fairly good success rate of leading teams to
tornadoes, supercell thunderstorms, and
other extreme weather events.

249


CAMPS & SCHOOLS

The plains of Texas and Oklahoma (also
known as “Tornado Alley”) are ground
zero for tornado chasing, though tours
can travel from the Canadian Plains
through the Dakotas and down toward the
Mississippi Valley. Expect to spend a lot of
time on the road, much of which will be
spent not looking at tornadoes—extreme
weather is a fickle guest, and doesn’t
always show up on schedule. Tornadoes
also frequently occur at night or are totally
obscured by rain. On slow days, some tour
operators might offer visits to attractions
like Mt. Rushmore (www.nps.gov/moru),

311
Bull Riding Adventure Experience
So You Want to Be a Cowboy?
Locations across the U.S.A.
Carlsbad Caverns (www.nps.gov/cave), or
the world’s largest ball of twine in Cawker
City, Kansas (cute, but not exactly an F5
twister). It’s all worth it, however, if you’re
able to see in person—and capture in
photos or on video—one of nature’s most
awesome and destructive forces. —ML

TOURS: Storm Chasing Adventure
Tours (& 303/888-8629; www.storm
chasing.com). Silver Lining Tours (&303/
644-4296; www.stormchase.net).

WHEN TO GO: May–Aug.

He weighs 2 tons and he’s really, really
angry that you’re sitting on top of him. But
you can handle this bull—you think. After
all, you’ve had a few days of instruction at
one of America’s top ranked bull-riding
clinics, and when that chute opens, you’ll
be ready for the ride of your life.

Lyle Sankey has been teaching rodeo
skills like bull riding, team roping, and
bareback bronco riding to professional
competitors for years at his rodeo school
in Branson, Missouri. He’s now expanded
his offerings to engage participants in a
bull riding “Vision Quest” experience that
lets novices try their hand at one of
rodeo’s most demanding events. Depending
on the venue and schedule chosen,
these camps can last from 1 to 4 days, and
include classroom time, rides on the
mechanical bull and, finally, the real thing:
a bull whose size and temperament is
matched to your age, athletic ability, and
ambitions—you hope.

Participants are welcome to bring their
own equipment if they have it, and instructors
will evaluate and tune it up as needed;
otherwise, the Sankey schools are willing to
loan you their equipment. (The exception is

boots—if you don’t already own them,
consider buying a good pair of Western
boots with a relatively flat shank.) And you
will also be required to have medical insurance,
for reasons that are obvious; if you
don’t already have insurance, Sankey
schools can put you in contact with providers
of short-term medical insurance.

Bull riding takes a special kind of energy
and ambition, but it’s not limited by gender—
both men and women are welcome
at these schools, and female students
from Sankey have excelled to the point
that they have been featured as bronc riders
in music videos. All ages are welcome
as well; students from 7 to 70 have
enrolled. And if you’re just not sure you’re
ready to ride that bull, the “ground school”
option lets you participate in everything,
including the mechanical bull, until you’re
ready to tackle the real thing. —ML

Sankey Rodeo School (& 417/3342513;
www.sankeyrodeo.com).
WHEN TO GO: Open year-round; check
website for dates and locations.

250


WAYNE GRETZKY HOCKEY FANTASY CAMP


Holding on for dear life at the Sankey Rodeo School.

312
Wayne Gretzky Hockey Fantasy Camp
Slapshot!
Phoenix, Arizona, U.S.A.
You’re skating up the ice with the puck in
front of you, and the goal is in sight. An
opening appears and you’re lining up the
shot, when WHAM! Out of nowhere, a
body slam from the opposing team’s Number
99 checks your dreams of hockey
glory. Wait—Number 99? Yes, that was
Wayne Gretzky, the Great One himself, on
the ice with you.

Wayne Gretzky Hockey Fantasy Camp,
an intensive retreat for hockey fanatics,
takes a group of puckheads and over the
course of 4 days molds them in the image
of Gretzky himself—or a reasonable facsimile
thereof. Held annually in the Phoenix
area, the camp is limited to 72 players
in order to ensure plenty of ice time, as
well as one-on-one coaching from some of
the best players in the history of the sport.
(We’re talking about legends like Theo
Fleury, Larry Robinson, Gordie Howe,

Bobby Hull, Barry Melrose, Ed Mio, and
Gretzky’s brother Walter.) Players are
divided into teams based on skill levels
and experience, and all teams will play at
least one game with Gretzky.

Skating with the Great One doesn’t come
cheaply. The camp costs $9,999 but
includes plenty of perks: hotel accommodations
in sunny Scottsdale, custom jerseys,
sticks and gloves, a video of your game
with Gretzky, and plenty of ice time for drills
and games at Alltel Ice Den, home of the
NHL’s Phoenix Coyotes. The final evening
includes watching a Coyotes game from
the luxury of Gretzky’s private box. Perhaps
best of all, a portion of the proceeds from
the camp benefits the Wayne Gretzky Foundation,
which supports hockey training
equipment and league play for underprivileged
youth. —ML

251


CAMPS & SCHOOLS
Wayne Gretzky Fantasy Camp Phoenix Sky Harbor International
(& 888/901-7529; www.gretzky.com/ Airport.
fantasycamp). $$$ Resort Suites of Scottsdale,
WHEN TO GO: Feb (check website for 7677 E. Princess Blvd., Scottsdale, AZ
exact dates).(&888/222-1059; www.resortsuites.com).

313
Jazz Vermont
This One Time, at Jazz Camp . . .
Resorts throughout Vermont, U.S.A.
As the sun dips behind the lofty peaks of
Vermont’s Green Mountains, there’s an
electricity in the air that leaves you a little
breathless. A crowd of people are gathered
all around you on the velvety green
lawn when you climb the steps to the outdoor
stage. Your buddies in the band
strike up the first few notes, then you lift
your horn and out pour the sweetest
swinging notes you’ve ever blown. One
thrilling hour later, your set wraps up and
another sound fills the air—the thunderous
applause from hundreds of true jazz
aficionados. This, you decide, is bliss.

Though perhaps not what you think of
as a typical adrenaline adventure, Jazz
Vermont has been making dreams like this
come true since 1984, when an impromptu
group of players realized they were having
the time of their lives while vastly improving
their music skills. The jazz camp moves
to a different resort location each summer;
past venues have included the Killington
Grand Hotel in Killington, Marble Island
Resort in Colchester, and Bolton Valley
Resort. About 70 musicians now make the
trek each year, along with a limited number
of spouses and other family members.
Non-musician guests are treated to a full
slate of activities such as tennis, yoga,

antiquing, painting, and hiking the verdant
hills of rural Vermont. The cost for participants
runs in the mid-$1,000 range, plus
extra for guests.

Despite the bucolic settings, this is no
lazy summer jam session—folks here are
serious about taking their music to new
heights, and though no improvisational
experience is needed, players are expected
to be intermediate-level or higher and able
to sight-read the music of Glenn Miller,
Count Basie, Duke Ellington, and other jazz
standards. Musicians should also bring
their own instruments—mercifully, an
exception is made for piano players.

The camaraderie that forms in the 6-day
retreat is like no other; many first-time
attendees are startled to find that the
drummer they befriended only days ago is
actually a neurosurgeon the rest of the
year. And most of those first-timers feel
compelled to return again—some 70 percent
of Jazz Vermont musicians are repeat
guests. —ML

Jazz Vermont (& 800/242-8785;
www.jazzcamp.com).
WHEN TO GO: An annual mid-summer
event.

252


PARKOUR

314
Parkour
Brawn & Brains
Worldwide
In the opening chase scene of the 2006
version of the 007 film Casino Royale,
James Bond pursues a bad guy who
scrambles across rooftops, slides through
a burnt-out car, climbs up the skeletal iron
beams of a building under construction,
then meets his prey face to face atop a
tower crane. All the leaping, bounding,
climbing, and jumping is not simply the
work of graceful stuntmen or a good flight
choreographer. The action sequence
demonstrates an extreme form of parkour,
a sport that has leaped from an
underground movement into a mainstream
activity in recent years.

Parkour, a made-up word, can be
defined as “the art of movement, when
one’s body and mind are trained to overcome
obstacles efficiently, with the goal of
moving from one point to another as
quickly and gracefully as possible.” The
traceurs (as participants are called) usually
practice their sport in an urban environment.
They vault over railings and drop
down to a street, dive through a gap
between fence posts, jump to reach the top
of a wall and pull themselves over, continuing
to navigate through, around, over, or
under whatever obstacles are in their way.

David Belle and Sebastian Foucan (who
played the evildoer in the opening Casino
Royale scene) are credited as two of the
founders of modern parkour, which
started in France during the 1990s. They
built upon the foundation created by
George Hebert, who prior to World War I
developed a Methode Naturelle technique
of physical training using obstacle courses
(parcours).

Today, parkour can be found all over
the world. In the U.S., Denver is a hot spot,
as are Washington, D.C., Chicago, and
Seattle. Good international scenes are

Toronto, London, and Paris. A Coloradobased
group called “The Tribe” is made up
of skilled traceurs who in the last few years
have helped develop parkour in the U.S.
by teaching classes, acting as unofficial
ambassadors for the growing sport, and
creating the American Parkour website.
Check out the website to connect with
others doing parkour in your area.

The best traceurs blend strength, training,
and critical thinking skills, but newcomers
can learn and embrace the sport
at much lower levels. Training to learn
such maneuvers as the cat leap, the wall
run, and the roll, whether on one’s own or
through schooling, is vital. Today, three
gyms in the North America are devoted
exclusively to parkour: In Denver, Ryan
Ford runs Apex Movement. Other training
facilities are Primal Fitness in Washington,
D.C., and Money Vault in Toronto.
In London, there’s Parkour Generations,
and in Australia, a good resource is Australian
Parkour Association (www.park
our.asn.au). A growing number of fitness
gyms are offering parkour courses. Parkour
is a blend of brains and brawn, but one
that requires skill and training, because it
can be dangerous. Before taking a parkour
class, ask the instructor how long he or
she has been doing it and whom they
trained with before starting to teach. —LF

American Parkour (www.american
parkour.com). Apex Movement (&720/
242-9250; www.coloradoparkour.com).
Primal Fitness (& 202/635-1941; www.
primal-fitness.com). Money Vault (&647/
350-1111; www.themonkeyvault.com).
Parkour Generations (&44/7825-410134
or 44/7984-348218; www.parkour
generations.com).
253


7 Races & Festivals
Endurance Endeavors . . .255
Foolish Fun . . .269
Spectator Delights . . .280
The Kitchen Sink . . .289
7 Races & Festivals
Endurance Endeavors . . .255
Foolish Fun . . .269
Spectator Delights . . .280
The Kitchen Sink . . .289

THE EMPIRE STATE BUILDING RUN UP

Endurance Endeavors315
The Empire State Building Run Up
Upwardly Mobile
New York, New York, U.S.A.
No one needs an introduction to the
Empire State Building. This 107-story
skyscraper dominates the Manhattan skyline
and is a giant amongst giants with
1,860 steps, 6,500 windows, 73 elevators,
2 banks, 5 entrances, 3 cafes, and 250
maintenance staff. It is undoubtedly the
most famous building in the city and has
drawn the multitudes to peer from its
observation platform, including a rather
large ape called King Kong. Built in 1931, it
has been the scene of countless romantic
movies as well as the final jumping off
point for some 30 suicides. (One such
jumper threw herself off the 86th floor in
1979, only to be blown back onto the 85th
floor relatively unscathed.) The building,
located on Fifth Avenue and 34th Street,
has survived the Great Depression, near
bankruptcy (initially it was nicknamed the
“Empty State Building”), and a catastrophic
plane crash when a B25 Mitchell
slammed into its side in 1945. Every year it
also survives one of New York’s most
bizarre and grueling foot races—the great
Empire State Building Run Up.

Looking somewhat out of place in togs
and trainers amidst such Manhattan Art
Deco splendor, 250 runners gather in the
building’s glass and marble lobby. They are
congregated for what is essentially a handrail
marathon, a vertical sprint to the top
through a narrow grey stairwell. They trod
a mind numbing 1,576 steps to the 86th
floor at 1,050 feet (315m), their ears popping
from the change in altitude, to a viewing
platform that is often shrouded in
clouds. Women go first, dashing across the
lobby and jostling up the stairwell in what is
a seriously competitive race with not an
animal costume in sight. Participation is by

Participants approach the finish line atop the
Empire State Building.


invitation only, though anybody is free to
make an initial application to the organizers
who are called the New York Road Runners.
Competitors are chosen by ability and
background and there is a nominal registration
fee of $30 if chosen. Runners come
from all around the world to test their
stamina on what proves to many a stairway
to hell, where the sheer monotony and
exertion means the climb is tough mentally
as well as physically. Approximately 10%
never make it to the top. Australian professional
cyclist Paul Crake holds the overall
record, completing this stair crazy challenge
in 9 minutes, 33 seconds (that’s 6,593
ft. an hour), the only runner to ever reach
the observation platform in under 10 minutes.
The winner receives no prize money,
just a commemorative medal and a free

Previous page: A rider on the California “Death Ride” takes the rain in stride.

255


RACES & FESTIVALS

plane ride back to the event the following
year. Thankfully, all the runners are
allowed to take the elevator back down.

First held in 1978, the Empire State Building
Run Up is the oldest and most prestigious
event in a new urban endurance
sport called tower running. Now there are
similar events all over the world in cities as
diverse as Sydney, Moscow, Vienna, and
Detroit. One thing they all have in common
is a mighty towerblock with hellish steps,
some surpassing the Empire State in height
and agony. Bangkok’s event at the Westin
Banyan Tree Hotel, for example, has 1,093
steps. Tower running is certainly for the
fit and upwardly mobile and one thing is

Endurance Endeavors 316
Iditarod
Call of the Wild
Anchorage, Alaska, U.S.A.
guaranteed wherever you choose to do
it—if the view does not leave you breathless,
the run up will. —CO’M

New York Road Runner’s Club
(&212/860-4455; www.nyrr.org).
WHEN TO GO: Early Feb. Check website
for details.


JFK, LaGuardia, and Newark Liberty.
$$$ The Michelangelo Hotel, 152
West 51st St. (& 212/765-0505; www.
michaelangelohotel.com). $$ Hilton Garden
Inn, 63 W. 35th St. (&212/594-3310;
www.hiltongardeninn.hilton.com).


Apparently the word “iditarod” is Alaskan
Indian for a “distant place,” but I’m not
fooled. Those in the know realize it is a
word that has no equivalent in English but
can be summed up as a grueling, relishing
challenge, whipped up and freeze-dried
with masochistic lunacy. How else can you
describe Alaska’s most famous endurance
race, an epic journey of 1,150 miles
(1,852km) over desolate tundra, dense
forest, frozen rivers, and gale whipped
coast? Every first Saturday in March, some
90 competitors gather in Anchorage—
teams of mushers (sled drivers) with their
frisky bands of yapping Siberian huskies
and Alaskan Malamutes. They set off for
the distant town of Nome in the north
through a wilderness trail that passes
through tough sounding settlements such
as Rohn Roadhouse, Cripple, McGrath,
and Shageluk. The mushers are equipped
with axes, snowshoes, and arctic parkas.
God knows they’ll need them as they
endure a 2-week slog through temperatures
that can reach 50°F (10°C) below

zero, waist deep snow, howling blizzards
and jet black darkness. This race is so
tough even the dogs wear boots.

Such pain ahead is belied by the festival
atmosphere in Anchorage as the race sets
off. Thousands of well bundled spectators
gather on the city streets to see the dog
teams bound into action at 2-minute intervals.
In fact, this is all very much ceremonial
as the serious time clock does not get
started until the teams depart from the
town of Wasilla. Nevertheless, the atmosphere
in Anchorage is electric—the locals
take this dog race very seriously. Evidence
of this can be seen by the city statues to
race runners from the past such as Balto
the Dog. Race winners become local legends
and walk away with $70,000 in prize
money, plus a truck. Anyone can enter—
though it’s mostly locals, people come from
far and wide to participate in this legendary
event. To enter you need to put down a
$4,000 fee. The whole community turns out
with many volunteering as stewards and
marshals and rescue teams.

256


ANTARCTICA ULTRA RACE

Such community spirit can be traced
back to the origins of the race. In 1925 a
diphtheria outbreak in Nome threatened
to wipe out the local Inuit population. A
town doctor sent back word to the state
capital that he needed an urgent supply of
the life-saving serum. Thus became the
“Great Race of Mercy.” Eskimos, Russians,
Norwegians, and Irish formed a team of 20
dog teams that ran a rescue relay north
through the remote and dangerous Yukon.
They got there just in time to save the day.
The famous run was re-enacted in 1973 as
part of Alaska’s centennial celebrations
and it has been running ever since. The
record for the race is 10 days and women
have proved just as capable at competing
with the most manly of mushers. Deaths are
not unknown and doctors and veterinarians
are positioned at every checkpoint to ensure
the wellbeing of every competitor. As well

Endurance Endeavors317
Antarctica Ultra Race
The Loneliness of the Distance Ultra Runner
Patriot Hills, Ellsworth Mountains, Antarctica
as extreme temperatures and rugged
landscape, racers must look out for that
most dreaded of incidents—a collision
with a moose. —CO’M

www.iditarod.com.
TOURS: Alaska Iditarod Tours (&1/604720-
0744; www.iditarodtours.com).
Alaska Tours (& 1/866-317-3325; www.
alaskatours.com).
WHEN TO GO: First Sat in Mar.
Ted Stevens Anchorage International
Airport.



$$$ Anchorage Marriot Downtown,
820 W. 7th Ave., Anchorage
(& 1/907-279-8000; www.marriott.com).
$$$ Hampton Inn Anchorage, 4301
Credit Union Dr., Anchorage (& 1/907/
550-7000; www.hamptoninn.com).

Go where even penguins fear to tread,
where the sun never sets, and a savage
and beautiful landscape will break down
even the hardiest stamina. Antarctica is
the end of the world, the frozen continent,
the coldest place on the planet, and the
last place on earth you’d think of going for
a run. Yet every year a contingent of
20-odd, stubborn athletes brave its wind
blasted interior to jog across 100km (62
miles) of ice, rock, and snow drifts. They
appear like moon walkers, wrapped up in
Gore-Tex and face masks with goggles and
gloves ensuring not an inch of human flesh
is exposed to withering snowstorms and
hurricane gales. They may sit out for days in
the desolate Patriot Hills, 483km (300 miles)
north of the South Pole, waiting for the bad
weather to pass before they dash across
the tundra in a race that usually takes

20 hours. They risk –4°F (–20°C) temperatures
on a landscape 900m (3,000 ft.) high
with the occasional field of bottomless ice
chasms to keep the runner alert.

Antarctica is famous for monumental
peacock-blue icebergs shaped in surreal
formations, craggy glaciers that crash into
the sea, sheer ice-encrusted walls that
form magnificent canals, and jagged peaks
that jut out of icy fields. On the shores,
several hundred thousand penguins can
be found nesting and chattering away
along the coast. Humpback, orca, and
minke whales are often visible, nosing out
of the frigid water, as are elephant, Weddell,
leopard, and crabeater seals. Birdwatchers
can spend hours studying the
variety of unique seabirds that reside
here, including petrels and albatrosses.
Yet the ultra marathon runners see none

257


RACES & FESTIVALS

of this as the course is so far from the
shore there is absolutely no life, just a
pristine ice block that allows them to
boast they are one of the few who have
run on the seventh continent.

First run in 2004, the Antarctic Ultra
Race is the ultimate conclusion in a recent
phenomenon known as ultra running. No
longer content with city marathons and
country runs, a small but growing band of
athletes is choosing to run races of
between 201 and 306km (125–190 miles)
in isolated parts of the world. Such events
are the supreme test in endurance, motivation,
and concentration with many participants
describing the experience as a
type of epiphany, where everything superfluous
falls away, the world becomes simpler,
and the pain and hardship of such
gruelling marathons ultimately lead to elation
and a sense of purpose. It is no accident
that most ultra runners are over 40.
This could be explained by the fact that

Endurance Endeavors 318
The Great Divide Race
Blazing Saddles
Montana, Idaho, Wyoming, Colorado & New Mexico, U.S.A.
most events are expensive—the Antarctica
trip costs $16,500, with the 8-day itinerary
setting out from the Chilean
Patagonian town of Punta Arenas. Yet a
more fitting explanation is that some people
are just not happy with golfing or sailing.
They seek adrenaline rushes and
excruciating challenges in unforgettable
places, and the Antarctica ultra marathon
certainly meets the criteria. —CO’M

www.icemarathon.com.
WHEN TO GO: Dec. Check website for
details.
Punta Arenas, Chile.
$$ Hotel Diego de Almagro Punta
Arenas, Av. Colon 1290 Ciudad, Punta
Arenas (& 56/61/208800; www.da
hoteles.com). $$ Hotel Cabo de Hornos,
Plaza Munoz Gamero 1039, Punta Arenas
(&56/61/715-000; www.hoteles-australis.
com).

Being chased by a bull moose is just one of
the challenges a bike rider encounters
when undergoing the epic Great Divide
Race. Crossing paths with a grizzly bear is
another. If the rattlesnakes don’t get you,
the mosquitoes certainly will as you sleep
on rocky ground in desolate forests on this
solo cycle dash from the Canadian border
to Mexico. Peddling against strong headwinds,
struggling with a flat tire in the
pouring rain, or advancing slowly up a
mountain pass through biting snow is normal.
Riders have been known to faint from
heat exhaustion, lie 2 days in a tent with
food poisoning, and shiver in pre-dawn
bouts of hypothermia. Swollen feet, a blistered
rear end, and chronic sunburn are
the usual corporal complaints while that

all essential bike may be grounded with
broken chains, splintered spokes, and
bent rims. All these adrenaline-inducing
ingredients add to the recipe for the Great
Divide Race.

Yet perhaps the hardest aspect of this
heroic American ride is its utter loneliness.
There is nobody around to help with that
unreadable map or massage that chronic
case of tendonitis. The basic ethos of this
2,500-mile (4,025km) gauntlet through the
wilderness of five Midwestern states is
you must do it on your own. There must be
no pre-arranged help and the entire route
must be completed within 25 days. If you
break down, you must walk to the nearest
town and resume the journey exactly
where you stopped. There are no support

258


MARATHON DES SABLES

vehicles, and though riders can join up
along the way, they must not help each
other in any way, including sharing the
slipstream nor bicycle parts or tools. New
equipment can be sent by courier and
cyclists can pull into any town along the
way and stock up on essentials, eat in a
diner, even sleep in a motel if they have
the time, which they usually do not. Normally
sleep involves four uncomfortable
hours by the side of a dirt track—night
cycling is essential to keep on course and
on time.

The first person to attempt this transcontinental
cycle ride was a Scotsman in
1892 on a bike made of wood. A battalion
of black buffalo soldiers distinguished
themselves by breaking between both
borders on two wheels 5 years later. It was
not until the 1990s, however, that a formal
time trial was set and the first race began
in 2004 when four of seven riders finished
the course. Now, two dozen riders roll
unceremoniously out of Roosville Mountain
in Montana at noon on the 19th of
June every year. They must reach Colorado
by Day 12 and the record for the
entire route is a super-human 15 days.
Many riders abandon the race exhausted
and take a Greyhound home. Others limp
past the finishing line in Antelope Wells,

Endurance Endeavors319
Marathon Des Sables
Dune Runners
Sahara Desert, Morocco
New Mexico, delirious with hunger,
fatigue, and joy. Despite the hardship,
they have experienced something more
than a race. The Great Divide is a journey
where cyclists wake up amidst herds of
wild horses and free wheel down mountains
during sunrise with eagles the only
spectators. Every state line is a boost and
to run a finger along a map of the route so
far covered gives a sense of achievement
more profound than 50 laps around a velodrome.
The terrain is gorgeous with red
isolated barns sitting on desolate plains,
high alpine mountains, and old mining
ghost towns all part of the itinerary. The
Great Divide Basin and the Wyoming red
desert unfold before each rider, and the
sense of discovering new ground is
enough to keep going. Curling up in that
damp sleeping bag after a good day on the
saddle covering 100 miles (161km) is an
achievement not everybody can boast.
The rider deserves his sleep. He just
makes sure he has his can of bear mace
within reach if needed. —CO’M

www.tourdivide.org
WHEN TO GO: June 6.
Lethbridge, Alberta, Canada.


The Marathon of the Sands is often
referred to as an ultra-marathon when in
fact it is the anti-marathon. Here in the
sweeping Sahara desert of Southern
Morocco, there are no crowds to cheer
you on like there is when you shuffle
through a Manhattan street in the New
York marathon. No music blares from
passing bars nor are there traffic police
blocking side streets. Instead you join a

long line of lonely runners snaked across
high, orange dunes with the only sign of
life the numbing pain in your blistered
feet. Temperatures of 125°F (52°C) make it
feel like you are running in a rather large
hair dryer and the 30-pound rucksack on
your back convinces you that somehow
you have joined the French Foreign Legion
by accident. This 6-day, 243km (151-mile)
endurance run over sand and rock,

259


RACES & FESTIVALS

through sand storms and freezing nights,
is in fact six marathons in one. The prospect
of competing in it is an adrenaline
rush in and of itself. The actual competition
is a fatiguing, yet gratifying exhilaration.
Needless to say there is not a large
woolly animal costume in sight.

Instead, competitors wrap their heads
in hats, sunglasses, and scarves to protect
themselves against the heatstroke that
frequently downs some of the 800-plus
participants. An Italian runner got lost one
year and wandered this vast space south
of the Atlas mountains for 9 days, surviving
on boiled urine and dead bats. Runners
burn up to 2,000 calories a day. They must
carry food for the entire week along with
clothes, a sleeping bag, and a survival kit.
Organizers dispense 9 liters (over 2 gal.) of
water a day for each participant, just
enough to prevent dehydration and not
enough to wash. The survival kit includes
tropical disinfectant and an anti-venom
pump to deal with bites from snakes and
scorpions. There is also a distress flare
and signalling mirror for those who need
help.

Started in 1986 by Frenchman Patrick
Bauer, the exact marathon route frequently
changes. The starting line is usually
a 5-hour drive from the kasbah town
Ouarzazate, known as “the door to the
desert.” It sometimes ends in Erfoud, a
sand city that is the frequent location for
Hollywood sandal epics such as The
Mummy.

You feel like a mummy after Day 2. Day 4
is an 80km (50-mile) night dash and though

the route is lit up with beacons, a sandstorm
can wipe out all visibility and runners
must rely on their compasses to get them
through. The rest camps are anything but
luxurious, with thin canvas tents holding
exhausted runners. There is little or no privacy,
with competitors having to get used
to relieving themselves in the open for all to
see. Despite such discomforts and a $3,000
registration fee, this gruelling race is always
oversubscribed and places are sold out
within 10 minutes of their release. Over
7,000 people have participated since it
started, the youngest being 16 and the oldest
78. It has a strong international feel with
lots of French and British, but the king of
the race is a Moroccan called Lahcen
Ahansal who has won it 10 times. Most
people are just happy to finish it. As for the
lack of large woolly animals, I lied. There is
a herd of camels that follow behind to pick
up stragglers. —CO’M

www.saharamarathon.co.uk.
TOURS: The Best of Morocco (& 44/
1249-467-165; www.morocco-travel.com).
WHEN TO GO: Apr 1–12.


Ouarzazate.
$$$ Le Berbere Palace, Quartier
Mansour Eddahbi, Village Berbere, B.p
165, Ouarzazate 45000, Morocco (&212/
2488-3105; www.ouarzazate.com). $$
Dar Karma, Juan Antonio Munoz et Carmen
Cabezas 45 Taourirt, Ouarzazate
45000, Morocco (& 212/5/2488-8733;
www.darkamar.com).


Endurance Endeavors 320
California Death Ride
Ride or Die (or Both)
Alpine County, California, U.S.A.
The weather ranges from snow, freezing hours. Participants climb more than
rain, and tennis ball–sized hailstones to 15,000 feet (4,500m). The total course
100°F (38°C) of searing heat in just a few is 129 miles (208km) of lung-busting,

260


MAN VERSUS HORSE MARATHON

leg-burning asphalt so brutal that about a
third of those entering the race don’t finish
it. True to its name, death is not unheard
of. And otherwise rational people choose
to do this.

It’s the California Death Ride (sometimes
euphemistically referred to as the
Tour of the California Alps), and each year
thousands of people trek to remote Alpine
County in northern California to spend an
entire day beating their bodies and brains
to a pulp to finish one of America’s most
brutal endurance events. The ride leaves
from Turtle Rock Park outside Markleeville
and heads over five mountain passes and
through two national forests (Toiyabe and
Stanislaus) before it ends.

Don’t expect to just show up with a
bike: The ride has a limited number of
entrants (recently capped at 3,500 riders),
so those interested should buy tickets well
in advance. Training is also required,
because even experienced cyclists cramp
up on the event, and the ticket lottery
gives preference to athletes who have
completed other long-distance, high-altitude
rides.

Preparation is the key to surviving the
ride. Thin mountain air is a serious consideration
for an event that begins at 5,500
feet (1,650m) above sea level and goes up

from there. Even the downhill portions of
the ride have their risks: At speeds exceeding
50 mph (81kmph), wheel wobble is a
life-threatening risk, and there are unexpected
obstacles like livestock. One cyclist
in the early days of the ride was killed from
injuries sustained when he and several
other riders hit a cow.

But it isn’t all sweat and blood. The ride
passes through some of the most spectacular
scenery in the world, with snowcapped
peaks and fields of wildflowers
throughout the course. And entrants are
treated to a number of great benefits, like
snacks, fruit, energy drinks, bike mechanics,
and massage therapists along the
route—which almost makes it seem
worth it. —ML

California Death Ride (& 530/6942475;
www.deathride.com).
WHEN TO GO: July; check website for
exact date.


Reno, NV (67 miles/108km).
$ Zephyr Cove, 750 Hwy. 50, South
Lake Tahoe, NV (& 800/23-TAHOE [2382463];
www.zephyrcove.com). $$ Fireside
Lodge, 515 Emerald Bay Rd., South
Lake Tahoe, NV (&800/692-2246 or 530/
544-5515; www.tahoefiresidelodge.com).

Endurance Endeavors321
Man versus Horse Marathon
Horsepower
Llanwrtyd Wells, Wales
The sight of a man sprinting toward a finishing
line with his opponents, a horse and
rider, racing beside him may appear like a
slightly one-sided contest. Even the most
powerful sprinters would find it hard to
match a four-legged gallop, especially
over a 35km (22-mile) course. Yet throw in
some steep hills, forest paths, streams,
and fences, and the apparent mismatch
evens out a little. A human athlete can run

through an oak woodland much faster
than a horse, for example, and the wild
moors and bogs of the Welsh countryside
will test the endurance of even the strongest
thoroughbred and skilled rider. This
annual cross-country race attracts 500
runners and more than 50 horses. They
huff and puff across a rugged and beautiful
landscape and though a human
has won the race only twice in its 29-year

261


RACES & FESTIVALS


Man and horse bound through a stream in the Man versus Horse Marathon.

history, among the runners-up there are
many cases of men and women beating
off the stallions and mares.

It all began with a bet. Pub landlord
Gordon Green overheard two customers
discussing the merits of running as
opposed to galloping while enjoying a
drink in his quaint country pub at the
Neuadd Arms Hotel in the tiny Welsh town
of Llanwrtyd Wells, 165km (65 miles) north
of Cardiff. Green agreed with one bookie
that a man can beat a horse in the right
conditions and went about proving it. The
first race took place in 1980 and since then
numerous runners and riders have braved
wind, rain, and scorching heat to settle the
matter. Every June they all gather in the
town square of this old Victorian spa town
(pop. 600) with its handsome white gables
and multi-colored streets.

Llanwrtyd Wells sits amongst rolling
green hills, its low grey slate roofs huddled
along the river Irton with an old stone
bridge crossing the lively stream. This part
of mid-Wales attracts its fair share of
nature lovers as it has excellent hiking
trails and valley walks. The sweeping

Brecon Beacons mountain range is nearby
and farther north you’ll find a lovely collection
of 12th-century castles such as the
handsome red gritstone Powys Castle on
the English border and the desolate and
eerie Aberystwyth Castle overlooking the
Irish sea.

Runners get a 15-minute head start on
the horses to avoid getting trampled. The
time difference is adjusted at the end so
any naysayers cannot accuse the race of
being fixed. Within 8 minutes, the horses
catch up with the humans and for the next
2 to 3 hours a cat-and-mouse game ensues
as man and horse cross paths, get stuck in
mud holes, gingerly descend steep hills,
and wade through waist-deep streams.
Water stations are set up at intervals
where men and women drink hungrily
from cups and the horses from buckets.
The event attracts thousands of spectators
who cheer on the contestants at different
vantage points throughout the
course. The final sprint and gallop takes
place back at the village and normally the
hooves win hands down by an average
margin of 5 minutes. That was until 2004,


RACE THE TRAIN

when a young Welsh soldier called Huw
Lobb became the first man in history to
officially beat a horse. He ran the course in
2 hours and 5 minutes, beating his nearest
equine foe by 2 minutes. The winner
walked away with prize money of $40,000
and bookmakers had to make handsome
payouts as they had calculated that a man
beating a horse was simply a daft proposal.
—CO’M

Endurance Endeavors322
Race the Train
Do the Locomotive
Tywyn, Wales
www.green-events.co.uk.
WHEN TO GO: June 2010.
Cardiff.
$$$ The Lake Country House Hotel
& Spa, Llangammarch Wells, Powys, LD4
4BS (& 44/1591/620202; www.lake
countryhouse.co.uk). $$ The Neuadd
Arms Hotel, The Square, Llanwrtyd Wells,
Powys LD5 4RB (& 44/1591/610236;
www.neuaddarmshotel.co.uk).

Here your competitor is not like any
other—a 14-ton steam train with a red hot
boiler, driving wheels, and darting cylinders.
It chases over 2,000 runners on a
23km (14-mile) circuit through pine forests,
crop fields, and deep ravines, and
very few people manage to beat it. The
Talyllyn Railway steam engine does have
certain advantages over mere mortals. It
does not need to stop every few miles for
a drink of water, for example; nor does it
have to negotiate uneven ground and
nettle pastures. Yet it must be said that
none of the athletes who race against it
have to haul four wooden carriages behind
with jeering spectators.

Only 5% of runners manage to beat the
Victorian coal sprinter that does the
rounds of the beautiful countryside and
coast near the town of Tywyn in northern
Wales. Originally the railway was built to
carry slate from a quarry farther up in the
hills that border beautiful Snowdonia
National Park (www.eryri-npa.gov.uk).
Now it takes tourists around this picturesque
corner of Wales with the sweeping
Cardigan Bay looking out over the Irish
sea.

The race first began in 1983 as a small
charity event that has now mushroomed

into one of the U.K.’s most distinctive and
idiosyncratic countryside runs. It attracts
serious athletes who must complete the
course in less that 1 hour and 20 minutes
if they have any chance of beating the
train. It also attracts its fair share of Sunday
runners out for some fun. The cool
thing is all the family can tag along for the
entire circuit as the train chugs beside
each runner with spectators in its carriages.
For serious runners intent on beating
the machine, it is key they get out way
ahead in the beginning as the course
becomes more difficult on two feet and
the train easily catches up.

The seaside town has a carnival atmosphere
with lots of stalls and games and
throngs of Welsh speaking locals in what is
very much a local event. The race begins
at the old bridge next to the railway line
and takes a 1.6km (1-mile) run through the
town before becoming a cross-country
scramble. Stewards stand at field gates to
guide the runners and hand out water in
the sometimes blistering August heat. The
train needs little guidance as it follows the
150-year-old narrow gauge tracks around
gorgeous countryside that includes a set
of beautiful falls known as Dolgoch falls.
The route sweeps beneath the hills and

263


RACES & FESTIVALS


Runners rival a steam engine in the Race the Train competition.

turns toward the town with the runners


$$$ Bae Abermaw, Panorama Rd.,
crossing the finish line in the town’s school Barmouth, Snowdonia National Park
yard and the train resting its pistons in the GW42 1DQ, Wales (& 44/1341/28-0550;
railway yard. —CO’M www.baeabermaw.com). $$ Ty’r Graig
Castle, Llanaber Rd., Barmouth, Snowdonia
National Park LL42 1YN, Wales

www.racethetrain.com.
(& 44/1341/28-0470; www.tyrgraig

WHEN TO GO: Aug.


castle.co.uk).

Liverpool.

Endurance Endeavors 323
Primal Quest
The Super Bowl of Adventure Races
Location Changes Yearly
Nicknamed “The Super Bowl of Adventure
Racing,” the grueling Primal Quest is the
ultimate adventure race. Sounds too dramatic?
During the race through South
Dakota’s Badlands teams paddle, run,
mountain bike, and navigate their way

non-stop across more than 600 miles
(966km) of rugged landscape. In the process,
they climb more than 100,000 feet
(30,000m) of vertical gain. Co-ed teams
must survive in the open wilderness with
only what they carry on their backs, and

264


TRANSROCKIES RUN

depend upon solving problems together
and helping each other through the mental
and physical challenges.

With a focus on being an ecologically
aware wilderness Expedition Adventure
Race, in this competition teams of four
must make the backcountry journey using
only a map, a compass, and combined
skills. Winning requires selfless teamwork
as much as stamina and determination. In
keeping with Primal Quest’s ecological
mantra, teams can travel only where permitted,
can’t build campfires, and stick to
the “pack it in, pack it out” rules.

Experienced adventure-race addicts
from around the world are the ones who
show up for this annual competition, but
only after training for months beforehand.
Cross-training is a must because the full
team must take part in all six stages of
each race: trekking, off-road running, and
orienteering; mountain biking; caving;
swimming; kayaking; and a fixed-line
ropes-climbing course.

The co-ed four-member teams must
travel together at all times and finish as a
group to be officially ranked. If one member

Endurance Endeavors324
TransRockies Run
Rocky Mountain High
Buena Vista to Beaver Creek, Colorado, U.S.A.
drops out for any reason, the team must
drop out. On average, since the first race in
Telluride, Colorado, in 2002, almost half the
teams fail to finish. Racers are tracked with
SPOT satellite messengers, small sophisticated
units that show where the teams are
at any time.

Primal Quest is held in a different location
every year and new disciplines are added,
such as whitewater swimming and canyoneering.
During the first race in Telluride,
62 teams from eight countries entered and
the winning team completed the course in
just over 3 days. In 2003, the Primal Quest
457-mile (736km) race in the Lake Tahoe
area became the first adventure race to be
shown on network television.

Entering the race is costly. The fee was
$11,000 per team for the Badlands race in
August 2009. But, the three winning teams
each get more than their entry fee in prize
money, plus free entry into the next Primal
Quest event. —LF

Primal Quest (www.ecoprimalquest.
com).
The TransRockies Run through Colorado
is no ordinary romp in the park: Participants
climb a total of nearly 25,000 feet
(7,500m) in elevation over 5 days while
averaging 22 miles (35km) each day. The
course takes runners through 110 miles
(177km) of backcountry trails—most of
the course is off-road—and runners can
expect to endure the full gamut of Rocky
Mountain extreme conditions, including
freak snowstorms, torrential rains, thin
mountain air, searing heat waves, and
below-freezing nighttime temperatures,
with the occasional bear, skunk, or moun


tain lion thrown in. The payoff? Spectacular
mountain vistas, great group
camaraderie, and the sense of achievement
that comes from finishing one of
the most well-organized and best-supported
running events in the U.S.

The race has six legs, each of which
ends in a campsite set up for runners so
that at the end of the day they can simply
kick off their dirty, well-worn shoes and
relax. The route goes through a few small
towns as well as through the White River
and San Isabel National Forests, crossing
countless streams, valleys, and ridgelines

265


RACES & FESTIVALS

along the way. It’s mostly single-track trail
running with a few paved trails in between,
and plenty of long downhill sections as
well as some slow, grinding uphills.

The event has a well-deserved reputation
for supporting runners. In addition to
plenty of rest and refreshment stops,
there are also catered meals, massage
and physical therapists, hot showers, lots
of great schwag gifts, and evening celebrations
including awards ceremonies and
video presentations of the day’s run.

Modeled after the TransAlpine running
event in Europe, the TransRockies Run has
one unusual aspect that makes it a standout
among races: It’s a two-person team

Endurance Endeavors 325
Alcatraz Swim
The Great Escape
San Francisco Bay, California, U.S.A.
affair, so participants—who usually must
endure the loneliness of the long-distance
runner—get more of a group experience
from a partner who’s there when they
need some encouragement, a swift kick in
the butt, or just someone to celebrate with
at the end of a grueling day.—ML

TransRockies Run (&866/373-3376;
www.transrockies.com).
WHEN TO GO: Aug or Sept; check website
for exact dates.


Central Colorado Regional Airport,
Buena Vista.

An early morning fog floats over San Francisco
Bay as the 7:45am ferry leaves from
Pier 33, close to Fisherman’s Wharf. Destination:
the famous citadel known as Alcatraz,
1.5 miles across the water. The
former home of Al Capone and George
“Machine Gun” Kelly is now a national park
and recreation center. Yet this particular
ferry is not carrying day-trippers or tourists.
The hundreds of people who line the
deck are planning their own unique
escape. They suddenly begin to strip, pulling
out yellow swimming caps and squeezing
into wetsuits. As the boat pulls up
close to the island prison known as “The
Rock” they all begin to jump in the water,
three and four at a time. A noisy gaggle
splashes around in the freezing foam with
gulls, cormorants, and egrets flying over
ahead. The swimmers tread the water,
chatting among themselves and pointing
in the direction of the Golden Bridge. A
starting horn blows and off they go, swimming
frantically toward land.

The distance looks deceptively short.
One of the reasons the island was chosen
as a prison is because the tides that run
around it are treacherous. The strong current
pulls people west and can move a
floater three miles off course in less than
an hour. Swimmers are advised to swim
against the tide, focus on their land destination
and not on the swimmers ahead as
they will end up going way off course and
beneath the bridge where they will require
rescuing. Stewards in kayaks shepherd the
group of 700 swimmers toward Presidio
Park in the shadow of the famous suspension
bridge. The view is unusual and unbelievably
beautiful with the majestic bridge
connecting two land heads with the city
skyline in the distance.

That same view must have haunted the
former inmates as it seemed so close yet
so far. Alcatraz boasts that it had no
escapees in its 30-year history as a prison.
There were 14 attempts and 2 drownings.
In 1962, three men managed to reach the

266


ALCATRAZ SWIM


Swimmers fill the San Francisco Bay during the Alcatraz Challenge.

water with the aid of a drill made from a
vacuum cleaner. They were never found
and presumed drowned. The island’s
history goes back to 1775 when it was
discovered by the Spanish and christened
La Isla de los Alcatrices after the many
pelicans that nested in its rocks. It served
as a lighthouse, fort, and military prison
before the government decided to make it
a prison for some of America’s most dangerous
criminals. It was eventually closed
because it was too expensive and there
were concerns regarding the pollution it
caused in the bay. Now it is a popular tourist
spot, with haunted dungeons, guard
towers, and parade grounds to visit.

The swimmers do their own style of
parade when they reach land on the
other side. A seven-mile (11km) run
across Presidio Park involves negotiating

steps, a dirt trail, and brick tunnel. The runners
dodge walkers, cyclists, inline skaters,
joggers, and dogs as they climb 400ft (120m)
in a half-mile. The race must be completed
within 3 hours from ferry to finishing line if
they wish to be timed. Lots of stragglers run
in after the time limit, still happy to have
escaped from Alcatraz. —CO’M

www.alcatrazchallenge.us.
WHEN TO GO: Second Sun of July.
San Francisco.
$$$ Ritz Carlton, 600 Stockton St.
(& 415/296-7465; www.ritzcarlton.com).
$$ Hotel Rex, 562 Sutter St. (&415/4334434;
www.jdvhotels.com).


RACES & FESTIVALS

Endurance Endeavors 326
Adventure Races
Ready to Run, Paddle & Bike?
Texas, U.S.A.
Shall we hike around this steep slope to
the other side of the hill, or try to scramble
over it? Do you want to push me on a bike
around these barrels stuck in the sand, or
would you rather I push you? These are
just two of the offbeat types of decisions
you and your partner may have to make
during a fast-paced adventure race. Growing
in popularity, adventure races are
designed to get people off couches and
out into the wilderness. The key to winning
is coordinating with your teammate(s)
to get through the event—hopefully in
first place. Sort of like a local version of the

Amazing Race.

Although there are usually three parts
to the Terra Firma Promotions adventure
races, don’t expect them to be like
ordinary triathlons. During these races
you’ll run along a trail instead of on a
street, paddle a canoe instead of swim,
and ride a mountain bike, perhaps on singletrack.
These adventure races have
teams of two, three, or four people,
depending on the type and length of the
adventure race.

Terra Firma Promotions is run by a Dallas-
based couple, both winning adventure
races—one a former pro mountain bike
racer and the other an elite athlete. Most
of their events are held in areas in and
around Dallas, Austin, and Houston. Their
sprint series is the right choice if you want
to start adventure racing, because you
don’t need a top athlete’s skill and conditioning.
These events generally last 2 to 3
hours and include a three-mile trail run,
paddling a canoe for about 30 minutes,
then mountain biking 8 to 12 miles. Teamwork
is the key, because both you and

your buddy must finish. The teams that
work together, whether it is learning to
paddle in unison or hooking a long bungee
cord between the two people while running
or biking, so the slower person goes
a bit faster to keep up, are the teams that
do the best.

If the shorter races hook you, build up
to the 12-hour races, then progress to the
24-hour events. If you’ve become an
adventure racing devotee, collect a team
of three or four people to run one of the
7- to 10-day races. The longer races are
more complex. During the Sprint races
competitors run along clearly marked
trails. In the longer races, teams are given
coordinates and must use a compass (no
GPS allowed), a map, and a UTM corner
ruler so they can plot where they have to
go in the wilderness. For example, they
may have to decide to follow a riverbank
through a forest or run down a ravine,
rather than taking a road that is farther
away and longer but flatter.

Mystery events often are tossed into the
mix. For example, a cargo net may be
staked to the ground. Smart racers think to
take off their helmets and backpacks before
slithering under the net. Others try to slide
under quickly, still wearing their gear, and
getting caught, slowing them down. While
most of Terra Firma’s 12 events are held in
outdoor and wilderness areas, when an
event is held in an urban setting competitors
may have to rappel down a building or
roller blade along streets.

Though most adventure races attract
athletic types, there are no restrictions on
who can enter. These races emphasize
teamwork above all else. And as long as

268


IDIOTAROD

you’re having fun, learning a little some- & 972/966-1300; www.terrafirma
thing about getting along, and getting promo.com.
your adrenaline pumping, then you’re

WHEN TO GO: Races run from Feb–Oct,

doing it right. —LF

but the major race series is in May, June,
and July.

Foolish Fun327
Idiotarod
Manhattan Madness
New York, New York, U.S.A.
A shopping cart dressed up as jetliner is
being pulled down a freezing Manhattan
street by four half-naked men covered in
goose feathers. Another cart has the guise
of a Roman chariot driven by a gladiator in
a broom brush helmet with music blaring
from a boom box while centurions hand
out scrolls of Roman porn. Tourists happily
snap photos to show the folks back home
just how crazy this city is. No, you have not
taken a wrong turn and ended up at the
Bronx zoo. You have tripped across (like
many of the competitors) the annual New
York grocery cart travesty known as the
Idiotarod.

The rules are there are no rules, as long
as you wear no spandex and have no
motor on your shopping cart. There is not
even a pre-determined route in what turns
out to be the most elaborate pub crawl in
the world. Grocery carts become intricate
floats with names and themes such as
Octopussy, Top Gun, and Couch Potatoes.
Some produce their own steam and even
make a pretty decent cup of coffee. Competitors
are encouraged to cheat by bribing
judges with whiskey and sabotaging
fellow competitors by tripping and blocking.
It is not unheard for a food fight to
break out in front of Rockefeller Center.
One year some fake judges sent half of the

competitors the wrong way toward Central
Park.

Idiotarod is for the hip and anarchic and
is thrillingly illegal—thus the lack of a predetermined
route to deter the police from
stepping in. Yet this race, inspired by the
endurance dog sled run in Alaska of similar
name, is gaining such fame and notoriety
with hundreds of entrants every year that
it’s only a matter of time before it becomes
official and indeed a major annual event.
For the moment, it is a maniacal 6-mile
(10km) drunken drive across this island of
skyscrapers, where competitors do what
they can to cross to line—even hijack
legitimate shopping carts from a grocery
store when their own breaks down. In
2009 there were 15 arrests for being public
nuisances, but that’s what you’ve got to
do to be an idiot. —CO’M

www.cartsofbrooklyn.com.
WHEN TO GO: Last week of Jan.
JFK, LaGuardia, Newark Liberty.
$$$ Inn New York City, 266 W. 71st
St. (& 212/580-1900; www.innnewyork
city.com). $$$ Sofitel New York, 45 W.
44th St. (& 212/354-8844; www.sofitel.
com).

269


RACES & FESTIVALS

Foolish Fun 328
The World Wife Carrying Championship
Marital Distress
Sonkajarvi, Finland
There used to be two ways to carry your
wife at the World Wife Carrying Championship
in Sonkajarvi, 6 hours north of Helsinki
in Finland. One was the plain, old piggy
back with the betrothed jiggling on her
husband’s back like a distressed koala
bear as he ran the 253m (830-ft.) obstacle
course through mud, gravel, and sand.
The other was the fireman’s hold where
the lucky lady was thrown over the shoulders
like a sack of potatoes and transferred
with muscled intent across the
athletic pitch and through a pool of water
to the finish line. Then the unthinkable
happened. Some foreigners came and
beat the Finns at their own game. Estonians
from the south introduced their own
method that inevitably became known as
the “Estonian hold.” It involves the man
bending before the standing woman and

Men carrying their wives in the “Estonian hold”
at the World Wife Carrying Championship.


thrusting his head between her legs, then
lifting her up until her head hangs upside
down behind, facing his rear end and her
arms wrap around his abdomen to strap
her legs at the front allowing the male
easy freedom of movement and sight. As
for the lady’s view? Let’s just say it is not
the Northern Lights this Nordic country is
famous for.

The “Estonian hold” took the sport by
storm and soon these upstarts from the
south were breaking all records and taking
all the loot home—the main prize being
the lady’s weight in beer and a plasma TV.
A bitter rivalry broke out between both
countries that continues to this day, lightened
somewhat by other international
competitors who approach the sport with
a little more tongue in cheek, if you’ll pardon
the expression.

Wife Carrying comes from the sweet,
old Finnish way of courting a girl by walking
straight up to her and carrying her
away to your village. Somebody then had
the bright idea of introducing an assault
course, timing it and hey, presto! The wife
carrying contest was invented. The first
official championship took place in 1994 in
this small town of 5,000 people in the center
of Finland. Now the annual event is
world famous and attracts hundreds of
competitors who need only 50 ($74) and
a willing wife to enter. Thousands come to
watch, most of them, I suspect, ambulance-
chasing divorce lawyers.

The female rider can in fact be any
female over 17 and not necessarily the
wife of the male carrier. She does have to
weigh more than 49kg (108 lb.) and must
at all times wear a helmet. The race takes
place in pairs of two, giving each heat a
competitive streak. There is a penalty fine
of 15 seconds for dropping the wife. The

270


WATER SPLASHING FESTIVAL

course involves two hurdles and a
1m-deep (31.4-ft.) water trough that has a
fireman dressed as a scuba diver on constant
standby in case of any marital distress.
There are separate prizes for the
most entertaining couple and the best
dressed duo. The world record to complete
the course is an amazing 56 seconds,
won by, you guessed it, those pesky
Estonians. —CO’M

Foolish Fun329
Water Splashing Festival
Out with the Rinse
Jinghong, Yunnan Province, China
www.sonkajarvi.fi.
WHEN TO GO: First week of July.
Kuopio.
$$$ Sokos Hotel Puijonsarvi, Minna


Canthin katu 16, 70100 Kuopio (& 358/
17/1922-000; www.sokoshotels.fi).
$$ Scandic Kuopio, Satamakatu 1, 70100
Kuopio (& 358/1719-5111; www.scandic
hotels.com).

Feeling jinxed? Had a run of bad luck
lately? You must make your way to the
laidback southern China city of Jinghong.
There they have an excellent cure for misfortune—
a bucket of water in the face.
Apparently, there is nothing like a good
drenching to wash away the blues and this
city of black and white pagodas and yellow
robed Buddhist monks becomes a frenzy
of water dunking every April as the locals
grab buckets, basins, and bottles and
soundly soak whoever crosses their path.
From a distance, the city’s streets and
square take on the appearance of an anarchic
fountain with white arcs of water
stretching across the air before descending
into peals of screams and laughter.
Everybody is fair game, so don’t go
expecting to avoid a soaking. There are no
wet blankets at this shower party. The
good thing is you can retaliate by grabbing
the nearest receptacle and throwing back.

Traditionally, friends and neighbors
sprinkled each other with drops of water
to wish them luck for the New Year: The
3-day festival takes place during the local
Dai people’s New Year party. Then somebody
realized it was much more fun to
saturate and be saturated in turn. Girls
huddle and scream as youths attack them

with water. Even the monks join in and
jump in the river or nearest fountain. Buddha
himself gets wet during a ceremonial
bathing in the Mekong river. While all this
happens, homemade bamboo rockets
scream into the air and tiny, magical hotair
balloons float through the sky before
being consumed in their own flames. Candle
rafts float away down the river and
small bean bags known as love pouches
are thrown at whomever you fancy; catch
one of those in the face and you know you
have an admirer.

There is lots to admire about the province
of Yunnan itself. Scenic valleys and
fertile hills lead to lush paddy fields and
tropical jungle. Here the people are more
laidback than their northern cousins and
the pace of life much less frenetic than
Beijing or Shanghai. The people themselves
are different, made up of several
minorities, the most prominent of which
are the Dai people. Their fun and relaxed
attitude is more in line with their Thai,
Laotian, and Burmese neighbors. The area
has become a popular tourist destination
with lots of trekking and biking possibilities
in the surrounding area. Of course
many come for the New Year’s celebrations
which run from the 12th to the 18th

271


RACES & FESTIVALS

of April. As well as the water party, an
amazing dragon boat race takes place on
the river with each craft holding 50 rowers,
pilots, dancers, and drummers. An extravagant
parade rolls through the town with
colorful floats surrounded by traditional
dancers. On the final night a massive fireworks
display takes place on the riverbank
opposite, distracting tired and wet revelers
with an awesome display. —CO’M

Foolish Fun 330
Thunderdome Cage Battle
The Mel Gibson Appreciation Society
Black Rock City, Nevada, U.S.A.
WHEN TO GO: Apr.
Jinghong.
$$ New Tai Garden, 61 Minhang
Rd., Jinghong, Yunnan 666100, China
(& 86/691/216-5199). $$ Yunnan Aviation
Sightseeing Hotel of Xishuangbanna,
6 Menglong Rd., Xishuangbanna,
Jinghong 666100, China (& 86/691214488).



A huge dome welded with steel overhangs
a large sand pit. Above it hangs a neon
light in the desert darkness bearing the
legend The Thunderdome. The structure is
entirely covered in people clinging to the
bars and hanging from the metal gridwork
that allows them to see the interior below.
Many looked like they have not washed or
shaved in days and have a ragged, crusty
look, colored by glow sticks and fluorescent
clothing and the occasional beaded
dreadlock. They look eagerly into the pit
below, lit from time to time by the periodic
camera flash. They cheer and jeer as two
gladiators below bounce from bungee
harnesses, whacking each other across
the head with bats while a witchlike referee
with tall staff and ragged skirt officiates.
All you need is a Tina Turner
soundtrack and you would be forgiven for
thinking you’re an extra in a Mad Max
movie.

The venue is the Burning Man festival,
the famous gathering of New Age ravers
and radical thinkers in a desolate desert
spot 100 miles (161km) from Reno in
Northern Nevada. Here a temporary city of
50,000 hedonistic souls gathers once a
year for a week of enlightened debauchery.
Massive art installations, theme

camps, techno parties, and incessant
drumming take place in a C-shaped city at
the center of which is a 40-foot (12m)
effigy, the burning man that will be torched
as the festival comes to an end. Colorful
mutant cars roar around the playa, throwing
flames and exciting mirth with some
appearing as giant motorized muffins and
an eight-legged mechanical spider.

The origins of the festival come from
some annual San Francisco beach bonfires
in the 1980s, and it has morphed into one
of the biggest counter-culture events in
North America. While some criticize that it
has lost its free, non-commercial ethics
(ticket prices are now $300), it still bans all
merchandising and the only things you
can buy on-site are coffee, soda, and ice.
The rest you must bring yourself and gifting
is encouraged where participants
exchange items in brotherly love. Take the
on-site Irish bar, for example, called Paddy
Mirage, that dispenses free beer. There is
a Sobriety Checkpoint, where sexy female
police officers check you are drunk
enough, and if not will judiciously pass you
a cocktail.

Yet all charity stops within the Thunderdome
arena as two fighters face off to a
baying crowd. Anybody can participate—

272


BAY TO BREAKERS

in fact, the ethos of Burning Man is you
must participate in some of the many
events. The rather scary Thunderdome
banshee referee issues the rules to each
volunteer:

“One, I am always right. Two, stop and
start when told, and three, don’t bitch.”

“You’ve got it.” —CO’M

Foolish Fun331
Bay to Breakers
Naked Ambition
San Francisco, California, U.S.A.
WHEN TO GO: Burning Man begins on the
last Mon of Aug and runs for 8 days.
Reno (118 miles/190km).
There are no hotels in Black Rock City.
You must bring your own tent, car, or
campervan.


Three women dressed as large vaginas
pound the San Francisco pavement. A
row of Elvises pee along a garden fence.
A troop of Dolly Partons waves to a
crowd while a mobile lap dancing bar
complete with sofa and dancing pool is
pushed up the steep incline at Hayes

Street. Fluorescent ballerinas and some
rather skinny rabbits chug from beer cans
and limp toward the Golden Gate. There’s
a red naked lady and a green naked guy.
Over the years, the Bay to Breakers foot
race has morphed into an athletic type of
Mardi Gras with all the wildlife of San


Squirrels and an acorn commune during the Bay to Breakers race in San Francisco.

273


RACES & FESTIVALS

Francisco turning out every third Sunday
in May to trudge the 7.5-mile (12km) route
from South Beach to the Great Highway.
The race is very much a free-for-all with up
to 60,000 participants. It holds the record
for being the largest run ever, with
110,000 people jogging across the city in
1986, a sizeable proportion of them naked
or dressed as penguins. The race is a real
thrill for participants and onlookers alike.

Not that the event lacks serious athletes.
They kick off at 8am and finish the
course within an hour. Kenyan runner
Sammy Kitwara broke the record in 2009
with a time of 33 minutes, 31 seconds,
limping off with a prize of $40,000. Then
the rest of the day is surrendered to the
boozy extroverts who turn out with shopping
carts piled with beer kegs, mobile
bouncy castles, and elaborate pirate
boats. The “Back of the Pack Club” is a
determined bunch of slackers who prefer
to stroll rather than run and men dressed
in togas and grass skirts add to the general
hilarity. The race began in 1912 to lift
the spirits of a city still recovering from the
1906 earthquake. One hundred-fifty runners
competed in the first “Cross City.”
Women were banned until the 1970s but
that did not stop one Bobbie Burke completing
the course in 1940 disguised as a
man. That was also the first year to see a
costume—a guy dressed as Captain Kidd
who unfortunately came in last.

Foolish Fun 332
Bathtub Racing
A Shower of Bathtubs
Nanaimo, British Columbia, Canada
In the 1980s the event mushroomed
into the monster event it is today with
many now saying it has become too much
of a monster. Residents along the route
complain of vandalism and binge drinking
and the general unpleasantness of watching
overweight men run with no clothes on
or observing a rather large bear pee in
your front garden. Thirty-five tons of trash
are left behind on the streets and whole
floats abandoned at the end of the day
have to be hauled off by the city to a kind
of float cemetery. In 2009 the authorities
decided to step in and banned beer,
nudity, and floats. It caused uproar with a
25,000-signature petition and boycott
campaign to keep the race weird. City Hall
relented and the ban lifted. The San Franciscan
right to wear body paint and little
else is thus vindicated and it looks like
the wild and wacky Bay to Breakers is here
to stay. —CO’M

www.baytobreakers.com.
WHEN TO GO: Third Sun in May.
San Francisco International.
$$$ Omni San Francisco Hotel,
500 California St. (&415/677-9494; www.
omnihotels.com). $$ The Mosser Hotel,
54 4th St. (& 415/986-4400; www.
themosser.com).

A man jets across the choppy waters of
Nanaimo harbor in western Canada. His
boat slices through the snarly waves,
rhythmically bucking upward on the rough
tides. His shiny helmet and orange suit
make him appear like a NASCAR racer as
he leans forward and darts across the

waters. Then you notice that despite
his speed he is actually riding along in a
bathtub.

Nanaimo is a modern town on the picturesque
coast of Vancouver Island that
has one claim to fame—the oldest and
fastest bathtub race in the world. First

274


started in 1967 by a game ex-mayor fond
of dressing up as a pirate, the Nanaimo
World Championship Bathtub Race is now
the Formula One for flying faucet riders.
Originally 200 craft took to the water and
jetted 58km (36 miles) across the bay to
Vancouver. Now approximately 60
souped-up tubs mounted on race boats
do a fast, blustery circuit along the island,
beginning and ending at Nanaimo. The
race has become so serious, organizers
have had to split the race into two professional
and amateur categories as the latest
bathtub technology was excluding
ordinary folks from joining in. The serious
race takes less than 2 hours to complete
and the winner gets a golden plug on a
chain.

Nanaimo is known as the “hub, pub, and
tub city.” Originally a mining town, it is now
a gateway to Vancouver islands and is
notable for the excellent bars located in the
downtown district. Once referred to as “a
mall in search of a city,” it comes alive for
the 4-day marine festival that precedes the
bathtub race held on the last Sunday of
July. A town parade on the Saturday features
local beauty queens, the oldest tubber,
and the biggest bathtub in the
world—a 10m (34-ft.) monster that is
dragged through the streets and then put
on display in the local Home Depot parking
lot. On Saturday night there is a fireworks
display and a ceremonial “Sacrifice to the
Bathtub Gods” where an old boat is burned
in honor of all the famous tubbers past and
present. The race itself gets going at 10am
on Sunday and can be viewed from the
harbor pier and rocks that line the coast.
Day-trippers take the beautiful ferry ride
across Horseshoe bay from Vancouver to
watch the mad frantic bathtub dash across
the waters. A bronze statue of the man who
started it all, the pirate costumed Mayor


BATHTUB RACING

A bathtub flies across the water in the World
Championship Bathtub Race.


Frank J. Ney, overlooks the entire event.
Originally the 1967 race was meant to be a
one-off event to celebrate Canada’s centenary.
Of the 200 craft that left the pier, only
47 reached Vancouver with most sinking
before they left the bay. Men thrashed
around in the water cursing their luck. They
insisted there must be a repeat race next
year, giving them time to improve their
bathcrafts. Their efforts did not go down
the drain. —CO’M

www.bathtubbing.com.
WHEN TO GO: Last weekend of July.
Vancouver.
$$ Coast Bastion Inn, 11 Bastion St.,
Nanaimo, BC (& 250/753-6601; www.
coasthotels.com). $ Buccaneer Inn, 1577
Stewart Ave., Nanaimo, BC (& 250/7531246;
www.buccaneerinn.com).


RACES & FESTIVALS

Foolish Fun 333
World Bog Snorkeling Championships
An Eel Is Wrapped Around My Ankle
Llanwrtyd Wells, Wales
“The stench of the bog was horrendous,
weeds become entangled around my legs,
mask, and snorkel, and an eel wrapped
itself around my ankle. Once I got to the
30-yard mark, which was just halfway to
the finish line, my legs felt like lead in the
cold water and the finish line suddenly
seemed 2 miles away.” This is how one
woman described her experience in the
World Bog Snorkeling Championships in
Llanwrtyd Wells, Wales.

At the annual competition, contestants
must fight their way through two lengths
of a 55m (60-yd.) water-filled trench
chopped out of a peat bog, wearing a
snorkel and flippers. Competitors aren’t
allowed to use usual swimming strokes, so
must rely on flipper power. Only for orienteering
purpose can they raise their head
above the swampy water filled with
leeches, water scorpions, and the odd
fish.

Who would do this? Those looking for a
rush and an unusual way to get it! People
come from as far away as Hong Kong and
Australia to experience this one-of-a-kind
event. Past participants have included a
14-year-old girl and a woman who took
part in the competition to celebrate her
70th birthday. Many years, 150 contestants
or more show up at the WBC, which
are held on private farmland on the outskirts
of Llanwrtyd Wells. Competitors
often wear the wildest costumes. Years
past have seen people dressed as sumo
wrestlers, men in suits with briefcases,
and even a guy with an iron and board
strapped to his back! The fastest in various
categories and the “fancy dress” winner all
get medals and cash.

If this unusual competition was truly the
brainchild of two locals while they imbibed
a lot of Welsh Ale, who do you think created
the Bog Snorkeling Triathlon and
the Mountain Bike Bog Snorkeling
championships? The triathlon includes a
run, a “swim” in a peat-bog trench, and a
mountain bike ride. During the mountain
bike bog race, competitors cycle along the
bottom of a 2m-deep (6-ft.) peat bog
trench using a mask and snorkel. Competitors
peddle a bike with a lead-filled frame
and water-filled tires. (Scuba divers are in
the trench if any problems should arise
with participants.)

Llanwrtyd Wells is in the Irfon Valley in
the foothills of the Cambrian Mountains.
This area of mid-Wales offers more than
just bog-oriented entertainment and recreation.
Visitors will find plenty of hiking,
mountain biking, horseback riding, and
fishing. You will need a rental car to reach
and explore this area. The region is especially
lovely to visit through the summer
and fall, but the Bog Snorkeling events are
held in July and August. Visit the website
for the exact dates. —LF

Bog Snorkeling Championships
(www.green-events.co.uk). Llanwrtyd
Wells Tourist Center (&01591-610666;
www.llanwrtyd.com).
WHEN TO GO: Check the website for
annual schedule.


Birmingham or Bristol.
$ Lasswade Country House, Station
Rd. (& 44/1591-610515; www.lass
wadehotel.co.uk). $$–$$$ Lake Country
House, Llangammarch Wells (&44/1591620202;
www.lakecountryhouse.co.uk).


276


BOTTLE KICKING

Foolish Fun334
Bottle Kicking
The Beer Brawl
Hallaton & Medbourne, Leicestershire, England
A large beefy man stands in a field and
throws a 5.4kg (12-lb.) keg the size of a
watermelon into the air three times. When
it hits the muddy ground for the third time
a 300-man mob jumps on it. They kick,
they scuffle, they maul their way down the
field with the “bottle” at the center of a
wild and violent scrum. Punches are
thrown, elbows hit faces, and fists dig into
ribs in what is a rough and tumble effort to
get the small receptacle of beer to one of
two streams a mile apart. Tempers fray
and scuffles break out as the multi-backed
monster moves to and fro over ditches,
hedges, and barbed wire. Clothes rip and
the contestants become unrecognizable
as they get covered in mud and cow
manure. Men are crushed beneath the
brawl, some unable to breathe until the
mob moves on and rolls over some fresh
contestants. Concussion is common and
bones are invariably broken. A fleet of
ambulances sits on standby to ferry away
the wounded warriors.

The Great Bottle Kicking Festival of Hallaton
and Medbourne is more like a war,
with these two small Leicestershire villages
battling it out to keep the keg. There
are three bouts with three different bottles,
with the winners the first to get to
their stream two times. Just as there are
no rules, there is no time limit and the riot
can continue late into the evening as the
fighters battle each other to near exhaustion.
It is also a free-for-all where anybody
can join in and the effort to get the keg is
by fair means or foul. It is not for those of
a delicate disposition.

The event gets going with a parade and
fair in these two middle England villages
64km (40 miles) west of Peterborough. A
giant hare pie is cooked and cut up and
then thrown to the crowd, who scramble
after the food with just as much brutal
savagery as the field battle. Thirty-five
hundred spectators gather for this event
that has pre-Christian origins. One popular
story is two old ladies in Medbourne were
saved from a bull when the beast was distracted
by a hare. They showed their gratitude
by dishing out food and beer to the
poor on Easter Monday. A more likely
explanation of its origins is that it was a
pagan fertility ritual. An 18th-century vicar
unhappy with the festival’s heretical overtones
tried to ban it. He relented when an
unhappy villager daubed “no pie, no parson”
on the rectory wall. The muddy
melee is thought to have started when
one year nearby Hallaton rushed the
crowd and stole the beer. Thus this annual
settling of scores is thought to be an early
precursor of football and rugby. One thing
it proves is that an Englishman will do
almost anything for a beer. —CO’M

WHEN TO GO: Easter Mon.


Birmingham (97km/60 miles).
$$ Kilworth House, Lutterworth Rd.,
North Kilworth, Leicestershire (& 44/
1858/880-058; www.kilworthhouse.co.
uk). $ Dingley Lodge Hotel, Bed &
Breakfast, Market Harborough, Leicestershire
(& 44/1858/535-365; www.dingley
lodge.com).


277


RACES & FESTIVALS

Foolish Fun 335
Bloco da Lama Mud Carnival
Primal Scream
Paraty, Brazil
A mud-covered creature stumbles toward
the bank of a giant sand pit. Other creatures
emerge from the mud, some stumbling
as they slowly drag themselves out,
muck dribbling from their limbs. All that is
visible are their eyes and teeth. It could be
primeval man taking his first steps onto
land. Instead it is a bunch of Brazilians
intent on having one big party.

The fact that festival participants at
Bloco da Loma dress up as cavemen and
run around shouting “hooga hooga ha ha!”
only adds to the Stone Age connotations.
They bang drums and chant, bearing large
grisly gods made from skulls and matted
hair. Filthy shamans burn colored smoke
and horses drag altars befitted with wigs
and puppets. All the runners are completely
black—the color of the mud they
rolled around in on Jabaquana beach
before running through the streets of
colonial Paraty, frightening tourists who
look disconcertingly spic–and-span and
colorful. Bloco da Lama means “block of
mud” and it is part of the 6-day carnival
festivals that engulf the country in early
February. While Rio de Janeiro, 258km
(160 miles) to the east, has the big, brash
sambodome, Paraty has the down and
dirty mud festival. Streams of young people
run through the cobbled streets of
this colorful city, some bearing ghoulish
puppets and floats. Huge quantities of
the local brew cachacha is consumed as
well as lots of cool beers in the bars and
kiosks that line the town’s beachfront.
Paraty is the home of cachaca, a sugarcane
alcohol drink popular across the

country; 1.3 billion liters of it is consumed
every year, much of it during carnival.

The town has a lively arts scene with a
bohemian feel. Once the second biggest
city in Brazil, it thrived on gold and slave
trading. Then the pirates came and the
city proved vulnerable to attacks. The gold
route moved north and Paraty fell into
rapid decline. It was only in the 1950s that
this atmospheric beachtown was rediscovered
and an effort made to preserve
and restore its charming architecture.
Now it is a popular tourist destination in
the Ilha Grande Bay with great bars and
restaurants and a party atmosphere.

Its carnival celebrations are unique and
have not been tainted yet by the outright
commercialism that takes place elsewhere.
Participation is open and free and
the festival is still very much a local affair,
though it is increasingly attracting foreign
visitors. It can be difficult to tell locals from
outsiders as they swarm across the
streets. Everybody is covered in mud and
they all speak the same language, which is
“hooga hooga ha ha.” —CO’M

WHEN TO GO: Early Feb.
Rio de Janeiro (253km/157 miles).
$$ Pousada Bromelias, Rodovia
Rio-Santos (BR-101) Km 558 Grauna, Paraty
(& 55/24-3371-2791; www.pousada
bromelias.com.br). $$ Pousada do Sandi,
Largo do Rosario, 01, Paraty (&55/11/30812098;
www.pousadadosandi.com.br).


278


3 WACKY CLIMBING COMPETITIONS

3 Wacky Climbing Competitions


If you’re eager to shimmy your way to the top of something, but think rock climbing
or ice climbing is too serious, strenuous, or stuffy, perhaps you need to go out on a
limb (or a log, or a greasy pole, or a tower of buns . . .) and look for a different kind
of climb. Below are three climbing competitions that aim to bring out the out-of-theordinary
climber in you. —CL


Greasy Pole Competition, St. Peter’s Festival, Gloucester, Massachusetts,
U.S.A.: Ever since Italians began settling in the Gloucester, Massachusetts
area just north of Boston, they’ve been coming together every June to celebrate the
patron saint of fisherman, St. Peter. But what started as a day of tribute eventually
turned from homage into a multiday celebration, with games, competition, and merriment.
One of the most anticipated of the contests is the Greasy Pole competition,
in which participants must make their way across a 45-foot (14m) greased
telephone pole extended over the Atlantic in the (mostly futile) attempt to capture a
red flag posted at the end. Oohs, Aahs, and Ouches! are constant refrains from the
onlookers. Upon nabbing the flag, the contestant leaps (or more likely falls) into the
water below and swims to the nearby beach, at which time he’s hoisted on shoulders
and paraded about town. And for what? Glory! The only reward fitting enough for
such a pain-inducing and ridiculous, yet wonderfully spirited celebration. www.st
petersfiesta.org/greasypole.html.


Cheung Chau Bun Climbing Festival, Cheung Chau, China: Just a short
ferry ride (55 min.) from Hong Kong is the charming island of Cheung Chau, home to
a small, but thriving fishing village of 25,000 people. Every late April or early May the
locals host the world-famous and beloved Bun Climbing Festival at the Pak Tai
Temple Playground. The festival features 14m-tall (46-ft.) bamboo towers of buns,
which the contest participants clamber up in the hopes of clocking the shortest
amount of time. Meanwhile, they’re bagging as many of the edible buns, made by
festival revelers, as possible. Competitors are divided into three age groups, 35 and
over, 18 to 34, and under 18 (participants much be at least 1m/31. ft. tall). Islands
3

District Leisure Services Office (& 2852-3220). Leisure and Cultural Services Department
(www.lcsd.gov.hk).


Tree Climb at Squamish Days Loggers Sports Festival, British Columbia:
Amid a virtual thicket of logger sports—axe throwing, tree falling, and birling,
to name a few—filling the hours of the Squamish Days Logger Sports Festival, the
Tree Climb may tower above them all. In this event, tree climbers are challenged to a
24m (80-ft.) pole climb and descent. A timed event, the object is to scurry up and back
down in as little time as possible, with past winners clocking in at jaw-dropping times
of just 30 seconds. Intermediate and novice competitions are offered as well, in which
both the heights and regulations (not timing the descent, for instance) are less strenuous.
Loggers from around the world congregate in Squamish, 60km (37 miles) north of
Vancouver and 65km (40 miles) south of Whistler, British Columbia, each year to participate
in the contests and merriment. www.squamishdays.ca.

RACES & FESTIVALS

Spectator Delights 339
The X Games
Bike Ballet
Los Angeles, California & Aspen, Colorado, U.S.A.
A motor bike and rider soar 40 feet into
the air. Mid-flight the rider detaches himself
from the bike, flipping it and spinning
it around his head in mid-air like a spacewalker
playing with a satellite toy. He
keeps the bike in play by the tip of his fingers
holding the back tail light as both man
and motor stretch across the air. He then
effortlessly pulls the machine back toward
him and resaddles and straightens up just
in time as the motorbike comes down and
lands on its back wheel, then front wheel
and he rides away. It’s a graceful display of
man and machine in gravity defying unison,
a trick at which any moment with the
slightest mistake would see the rider painfully
crash to the ground with his ride on
top of him.

Yet crashes, bruises, and broken bones
are all par for the course at the X Games.
This jump jamboree is the Olympics of
extreme sport and has its own A-list of
fearless superstars such as snowboarder
Danny Kass and skateboarder Shaun
White, known as the Flying Tomato for his
shaggy red hair and mid-air antics. They
may not be household names among ordinary
sports lovers but they are skatepark
heroes among the youth subculture that
flocks to this annual event held in different
locations around the U.S., but mainly in
Los Angeles and Aspen. The Colorado
event is the winter version, with skiers and
snowboarders thrilling the crowds with
aerial acrobats. Skinny guys in baggy
pants show their youth was not wasted
when fooling around with a board in the
local park. Organizers are constantly introducing
new mutant endeavours such as
Ultracross, a ski and snowboard relay
race, and Snowmobile Snowcross,
described as NASCAR on snow. Two
hundred-fifty athletes take part, including

several dozen Olympians, and crowds of
up to 130,000 spectators form 2-hour
queues around the block for the 3-day
events. An event village is created where
an X Fest takes place, showcasing the
participants to the background of live rock
music and interactive video games.
Though it may look as though the athletes
are having all the fun, the fans, in watching
all the tricks and stunts, experience their
own adrenaline rush.

The first event took place in 1995 and
has grown exponentially since. Some initial
experiments included bungee jumping
and shovel racing but it soon became
apparent that it was the core sports of biking
and boarding that excited the crowds
and got the most from its participants.
Owned, operated, and promoted by the
sports channel ESPN, the X Games has
proved a masterly exercise in marketing,
with high octane sponsors attracted by
the young, predominantly male audience
and their potential spending power for
accessories and video games. Such clever
promotion is evident when another well
known biker, Danny Way, launched himself
over the Great Wall of China and it is all
too obvious in the amount of video clips of
X Game tricks frequently downloaded by
the YouTube generation.

Initially spurned by the sporting establishment,
extreme sport is losing its counterculture
swagger and is slowly being
accepted into the fold as a genuine sport.
The success of BMX riders in the Beijing
Olympics is evidence of this. Much of this
approval can be put down to the X Games
showcasing this new generation of G-force
gymnasts and what they can do with a
chopper. The BMX Superpark is one of the
most popular arenas used during the summer
event. The smooth, dune shaped

280


MOTOCROSS GRAND PRIX

court has domed walls, extreme curves,
ramps, and pits. Riders skoot about the
assault course with practiced ease, sliding
along high wall edges, spinning over
ramps, and flipping in the air with an audacious
confidence that says the future of
sport is here and it is extreme. —CO’M

www.espn.go.com.
WHEN TO GO: Summer games Aug; winter
games Jan/Feb.
Los Angeles, Aspen, or Denver.


Spectator Delights340
Motocross Grand Prix
The Mud Gauntlet
Donington Park, Leicestershire, England
Aspen: $$$ Limelight Lodge, 355 S.
Monarch St., Aspen, CO 81611 (&1/970/
925-3025; www.limelightlodge.com).
$$ Hotel Durant, 122 E. Durant, Aspen,
CO 81611 (&1/970/925-8500; www.durant
aspen.com). Los Angeles: $$$ Omni Los
Angeles at California Plaza, 251 S. Olive
St., Los Angeles, CA 90012 (&1/213/6173300;
www.omnihotels.com). $$$ Elan
Hotel Modern, 8435 Beverly Blvd., Los
Angeles, CA 90048 (& 1/323/658-6663;
www.elanhotel.com).

Note: The X Games are scheduled in
Aspen until 2012.

Mud caked riders roar through pits of dirt
leaving rooster tails of clay in their wake.
They race along a track that resembles a
World War I trench, disappearing into dark
hollows before emerging in full flight over
a hillock and crashing down onto the snaking
dirt track that veers sharply around a
pond of muddy water. The distinctive
sound of powerful four-stroke engines
buzzes in the ears of the 130,000 spectators
that line the route of this famous race
track in the English midlands. They have
come to see teenage riders from around
the world endure a bone crushing gauntlet
known as the Motocross Grand Prix. Experiencing
the spectacular event is a thrill for
riders and on-lookers alike.

The word motocross is an amalgamation
of two words—motorbike and cross
country. Once known as scrambling,
motocross has become a phenomenally
popular sport with the 17-race Grand Prix
taking place in locales as diverse as Shanghai
and Istanbul. The U.S. occasionally
stages this spill and thrill muck adventure
at Laguna Seca in California, but its spiritual
home is at Donington Park, in England

where the U.K. Grand Prix is one of the biggest
spectator events in the British sporting
calendar.

There is no doubting the skill of these
young bikers as they weave through a race
course that on a wet English day can resemble
a flooded construction site. Studies
have shown that motocross bikers require
a level of fitness greater than track athletes
and football players. The intense physical
demand of keeping a 91kg (200-lb.) bike
under a controlled speed over a rigorous
track means the riders have to be young,
skilled, and exceptionally strong. Riders
sustain a heart beat of 190 beats per minute
as they weave and jump around the
circuit that lasts on average 35 minutes.

The dangers are obvious. Frequent falls
and crashes see spine snapping injuries.
Riders limp off with fractured shoulders
and shredded muscles. Many endure battle
wounds patched up with titanium
plates and broken bones knitted together
with steel pins. As if the race is not dangerous
enough, many riders now opt for a
variation on motocross known as freestyling.
Here they perform acrobatic stunts

281


RACES & FESTIVALS

during high jumps. One is called the Superman
Seat Grab where the flying rider lets
the bike sail before him mid-air as he
stretches out and holds the bike seat. He
truly does look like Superman coming to
the rescue.

Other motocross variations include vintage
motocross where old bikes such as
the legendary British made BSA are
wheeled out and put to the test on a
swampy circuit. BSA was the pioneer
brand that first saw bike riders test their
rides on the British countryside in 1924.
The distinctive high chassis and big suspension
forks of motocross bikes were all
features introduced to handle the ruts and

Spectator Delights 341
U.S. Music Festivals
The Beat Goes On
Nationwide, U.S.A.
mires of scrambling and bike makers such
as Suzuki first proved their worth by competing
in motocross. —CO’M

WHEN TO GO: July.


East Midlands.
$$$ Cathedral Quarter Hotel, 16 St.
Mary’s Gate, Derby, DE1 3JR, U.K. (& 44/
1332/546-080; www.cathedralquarter
hotel.com). $$ Holiday Inn Express
Derby Pride Park, Wheelwright Way,
Pride Park, Derby DE24 8HX, U.K. (& 44/
1332/388-000; www.ichotelsgroup.com).


The crush of the crowd, the blistering guitar
solos, the stage diving—each summer,
thousands of revelers pack auditoriums,
parks, and stadiums across the country for
music festivals that feature these and
other thrills. Whether you’re a teenage
rebel looking to bust out or an aging hippie
who just can’t let go of your Woodstock-
era tie-dye clothing, there’s a music
festival somewhere near you.

Perry Farrell thrills the crowds at Lollapalooza.


Lollapalooza (www.lollapalooza.com)
has proved its staying power since Perry
Farrell of Jane’s Addiction started the
party in 1991. Held in Chicago’s Grant
Park, the event has featured old-school
rockers like Depeche Mode and new indie
acts. Chicago is also the home of the
Pitchfork Music Festival (www.pitch
forkmusicfestival.com). Founded by the
music site Pitchfork.com, this party distinguishes
itself by letting attendees suggest
set lists for the bands performing at the
concert.

All Tomorrow’s Parties (www.atp
festival.com), a renowned British institution,
has found a stateside home in the
farmlands near Monticello, New York.
Another small town hosts a big event when
Bonnaroo (www.bonnaroo.com) comes to
Manchester, Tennessee. The 3-day party
and camp-out has hosted renowned
bands like Bruce Springsteen and the E
Street Band and Elvis Costello. Like many of
these events, the All Points West Music
and Arts Festival (www.apwfestival.com)

282


TURKISH OIL WRESTLING

prides itself on being a green party: This
3-day concert is accessible by numerous
forms of mass transit from New York City
and New Jersey, and enforces a park-wide
recycling program. On the other side of
the continent, Outside Lands (www.
sfoutsidelands.com) rocks the San Francisco
Bay area from the leafy glades of
Golden Gate Park.

Music lovers who are looking for something
other than rock and roll also have

Spectator Delights342
Turkish Oil Wrestling
Slippery Customers
Edirne, Turkey
plenty to choose from. The Essence
Music Festival in New Orleans (www.
essencemusicfestival.com) presents a
variety of soul, R&B, and hip-hop acts. The
legendary Newport Jazz Festival (www.
jazzfestival55.com), now over 55 years
old, still brings top jazz and blues talent
to its stage. And folkies still flock to Rhode
Island to take in the sounds at the venerable
Newport Folk Festival (www.folk
festival50.com). —ML

Fez wearing drummers rumble in the background
as 50 or so muscular men in
leather shorts gather in a stadium field.
Thousands of spectators cheer them on as
they smear each other with olive oil and
then pair off to lock heads, grasp hands
and necks, and try to land the other one
on his back. The Kirkinpar wrestling
festival is underway, reputedly the oldest
sporting event in the world, dating from
1357 and a national obsession.

Eighteen hundred wrestlers gather
from all around the country to decide who
is the fastest, quickest, and slickest of
them all. This, also the biggest wrestling
event in the world, takes place in the
pretty Ottoman city of Edirne on the Bulgarian
border, 230km (143 miles) west of
Istanbul. They all fight it out over several
days until there is literally one last man
standing. He receives a gold plated belt
and sizeable purse and is regarded as the
best wrestler in Turkey until the festival
comes around again a year later.

The contest’s origins are traced back to
1347 when an Ottoman Sultan rode
through town with a group of warriors.
They camped out for the night and two
brothers started to wrestle for fun. A

deadlock ensued as they were both evenly
matched and neither would back down.
They fought over several days until they
both dropped dead from exhaustion. The
spot where they were buried became the
location of the annual event and now thousands
flock here to the Saraych stadium to
cheer and gamble on every bout. Costumed
paraders take to the streets of a
historic city with gorgeous mosques cornered
by towering minarets. There is an
old picturesque Roman section of town
with wooden houses and a chaotic bazaar.

But for 1 week in June, all the action
takes place in the stadium one mile from
the town center. What marks Turkish
wrestling so different from other wrestling
is the fact that the contestants smear
themselves in oil—the event goes through
two tonnes every year—and the wrestlers
wear buffalo skin pants that the opponent
is allowed to grab and grapple to gain
some leverage. The sight of two greased
up muscle men in an embrace trying to put
their hands down each other’s leather
pants does have homoerotic undertones
and the event drew attention in the year
2000 when the wrestlers reacted angrily
to a gay group that advertised a tour to

283


RACES & FESTIVALS

the event. When all is said and done this is
a macho affair and definitely not gay
friendly. In fact it has all the modern problems
associated with tough physical
sports, including a doping scandal that
compelled the organizers to introduce
tests for performance enhancing drugs on
each competitor. The competition is
closed to foreign competitors but spectators
are welcome to see what must be one
of the most compelling gladiator sports in
the world. —CO’M

Spectator Delights 343
Icarus Cup
Celebrating Airborne Sports
Saint-Hilaire du Touvet, France
WHEN TO GO: Late June.
Istanbul (239km/148 miles).
$$$ Sirkeci Konak Hotel, Taya
Hatun Sokak No: 5, 34120 Sirkeci, Istanbul
(& 90/212/528-4344; www.sirkecikonak.
com). $$ Hotel Sapphire, 14 bni Kemal Cd,
Hocapaa, Istanbul 34410, Turkey (& 90/
212/520-5686; www.hotelsapphire.com).


If it flies, you’ll find it at Saint-Hilaire du
Touvet’s Coupe d’Icare (Icarus Cup).

Hang-gliders and paragliders soar skyward,
intrepid free-fallers in wing-suits
plummet earthward from helicopters, multicolored
kites dip and sway, and hot-air
balloons rise gracefully into the earlymorning
air.

According to Greek myth, Icarus used
wings constructed by his father from
feathers and wax to fly from his island
prison on Crete. Every summer, 8,000 modern-
day aviators relive his dream of flight,
launching themselves into the crystal
mountain air from the breathtaking Plateau
des Petites Roches to glide gracefully down
to Lumbin, 600m (1,968 ft.) below.

The packed schedule is based around
stunt-flying displays and aerial demonstrations,
but the theme of air, wind, and flight
encompasses everything from a flightrelated
film festival to a night-launch of
thousands of illuminated miniature balloons
and flight-related activities for kids.
The highlight is the Masquerade Contest,
with prizes for the most “innovative and
poetic” flying invention. Dragons, flying
cars, and giant footballs drift or plummet,
to the delight of an enthusiastic crowd.

Amateur pilots who obey the event’s
strict safety rules can even try their luck
from the plateau on Thursday and Friday
before the professionals take over. Bring
your own wings.

In nearby Grenoble, where you’ll likely
bed down, make time for a ride on the
Telepheriquq-Greoble-Bastille cable cars,
which take you over the Isere River and its
surrounding valley. The commanding
views of the surrounding mountains, city,
and Fort de la Bastille, are worth the
trip. —DL

www.coupe-icare.org/GB_home/html.
Rhone Alps Tourism (www.rhonealpstourism.
com).
WHEN TO GO: Sept.


Grenoble (27km/17 miles).

0Paris (31.2 hr.).
$$–$$$ Park Hotel Concorde, 10
place Paul-Mistral, Grenoble (& 33/4/7685-
81-23; www.park-hotel-grenoble.fr).
$$ Hotel d’Angelterre Tulip Inn Grenoble,
5 place Victor-Hugo, Grenoble (&33/
4/76-87-37-21; www.hotel-angleterregrenoble.
com).


284


THE WINTER SPEED FESTIVAL


Touching down at the Icarus Cup.

Spectator Delights344
The Winter Speed Festival
Lap Land
Lac La Biche, Alberta, Canada
To be a spectator at the annual Winter
Speed Festival in western Canada is
slightly unnerving. To watch a souped-up
Chevette with a monster engine tearing
around an icy lake and coming toward you
compels you to step back a little in case
the kamikaze motor should slip and slide
your way. There is no curb to keep the
lunatic driver on course and there is no
viewing stand for spectators to take refuge
in. What you get is quite simple—a
frozen lake at the edge of a forest with
over 300 motorheads with their toys ripping
around the icy surface. It seems anything
that burns gasoline is fair
game—cars, motorbikes, quads, and
snowmobiles. They roar around a frozen

lake called Lac La Biche 125km (140 miles)
north of Edmonton city in the oil and
mountain state of Alberta.

It is a marvel how they stay on track and
the tournament has its fair share of
crashes and rollovers. Most of the vehicles
are fitted out with special studded tires
that dig into the thick ice of this oval
shaped circuit, and drivers are obliged to
wear full protective gear such as padded
jumpsuits and chest protectors.

The snowmobile drag race is a sight to
behold. A line of bullet shaped motor sleds
roar to life on the desolate causeway,
revved to the maximum yet still stationary.
The noise is deafening as both driver and
helper keep the machines at full throttle

285


RACES & FESTIVALS

before letting go. They tear off into the
distance at a remarkable speed and the
ear splitting sound disappears as these
super sleds cover 198m (660 ft.) in 4 seconds,
actually breaking the sound barrier.

The motorbike racing is no less exciting
and inspires envy in the fearlessness of
these maniacal riders. Their loud dirt bikes
coast through slush and snow as they take
the sharp corners at speeds that defy
belief. The riders lean heavily to the side
with their knees scraping the surface and
the bike ripping up ground as they lap the
lake without flying over the side. Occasionally
the back wheel slips and there’s a
premonition of man and machine cartwheeling
into a snowdrift. But he snaps
the accelerator and the wheel takes grip
and propels forward.

The Winter Speed Festival is gloriously
noncommercial without a hotdog stand or
sponsor’s sign in sight. How long it stays
this way remains to be seen, as this event
is gaining more fame with some 1,200
people attending in 2009.

Spectator Delights 345
The Palio Horse Race
The Risk Jockeys
Siena, Tuscany, Italy
The small oil and logging community of
La Biche is surrounded by an area that is
an outdoor haven for those who love fresh
air. There are 150 lakes to explore and
people come here to hike, fish, sled, and
swim. Alberta itself is a landlocked state
the size of Texas with the Rocky Mountains
skirting its eastern borders. It is a
huge oil producer, which is just as well as
it seems a fair share of that gas is consumed
by a bunch of thrill-seekers on a
solid lake once a year. —CO’M

www.classicwheels.org.
WHEN TO GO: Feb/Mar.
Edmonton (219km/136 miles).
$$$ Hampton Inn & Suites Edmonton/
West, 18304 100 Ave., Edmonton,
Alberta T5S 1A2, Canada (& 1/780/4847280;
www.hamptoninn.hilton.com).
$$$ Hilton Garden Inn West Edmonton,
17610 Stony Plain Rd., Edmonton,
Alberta T5S 1A2, Canada (& 1/780/4432233;
www.hiltongardeninn.hilton.com).

One of Europe’s most spectacular and
chaotic horse races is held in honor of the
Virgin Mary. The good lady would blush,
however, if she knew of the antics that
take place over this no-holds-barred rush
around the medieval Piazza del Campo in
the picturesque Tuscan city of Sienna.
Bribery, gambling, plotting, and betrayal
are all par for the course in this hugely
popular event that attracts thousands of
spectators and pits every city district
against each other and stirs up ancient
bitter rivalries.

It all begins with pomp and ceremony
with a parade of armored horsemen

bearing medieval flags and banners
through the packed streets and into the
large square that is jammed with eager
spectators. This event is so popular that
some tenants who live overlooking the
square must sign a rental contract to
vacate their premises on the day in question
so their landlords can rent out the balconies
for a princely sum. An ox drawn war
chariot bears trumpet players and drummers
while the local bishop blesses each
horse and jockey. There are 10 riders in all,
representing the different city wards. An
explosive charge is detonated as they enter
the square with locals jeering from every

286


THE PALIO HORSE RACE

vantage point like charged-up soccer fans.
A circuit track of yellow dirt is laid around
the outer rim of the plaza while padded
crash barriers are set up at the most tricky
corners. The multitude of people are
packed tightly in the center, everybody
jostling for a view of the multicolored jockeys
who ride bareback and carry whips
made from stretched dried bull penises.

The starting rope is dropped and off
they go in a frantic helter skelter clockwise
around the tight corners of the track,
using their whips liberally to egg on their
own horse and hit other competitors. Conventional
racing rules are forgotten as the
jockeys flail and hamper their fellow riders,
blocking and knocking and hindering
as much as they can. The tight curves see
horses slide and crash into the side walls
with jockeys crashing to the ground and
then fleeing for cover. They go three times
around the plaza while the crowd screams
for their horse. One eventually edges
ahead (often jockeyless but still declared a
winner) and the plaza erupts in joy, acrimony,
celebration, and the occasional
brawl. It is all over in 90 seconds.

Il Palio is like no other race and the passion
it stirs is hinged on the intense rivalry
between the city district teams that go by

names such as Porcupine, Panther, and
Shell. Each has its own feuds and scores to
settle in a race that goes back to medieval
times. Alliances are made and plots laid
out. Dirty tricks are not unknown, such as
horses being drugged and even jockeys
kidnapped. The second horse is regarded
as the real loser and the district that has
not won the longest is the laughing stock
of the city and must bear the shameful
name of granny.

The prize is a painted banner, and it is
hung with pride at the huge banquet that
takes place after the race. The jockey sits
in place of honor at the head of the table
with his fateful steed standing behind,
wrapped in garlands. —CO’M

WHEN TO GO: There are two races every
year on July 2 and Aug 16.


Florence (75km/47 miles).
$$$ Borgo Grondaie, Strada delle
Grondaie, 53100 Siena, Italy (& 39/577/
332539; www.www.borgogrondaie.com).
$$ Hotel More Di Cuna, Via Cassia Nord,
53014 Monteroni d’Arbia, Siena, Italy
(& 39/577/385166; www.hotelmoredi
cuna.it).



RACES & FESTIVALS

Bet or Not, Horse Races Take You for a Ride

Racing at Churchill Downs, home
of the Kentucky Derby.


If you like to bet on horse races, your adrenaline rush comes as your horse gallops
closer to the finish line, hopefully in first place. Even if you’re not inclined to put
money down on a horse, at these annual events there is so much activity around the
races you’ll be entertained from early morning when the horses exercise on the track
into the wee hours when owners of the winners celebrate. —LF


Kentucky Derby, U.S.A.: Aristides was the first to gallop across the finish line
on May 17, 1875, the day the Kentucky Derby tradition began. Today, the annual
race for 3-year-old thoroughbreds, always held the first
Saturday in May, is the reason and excuse for the
2-week-long Kentucky Derby Festival in Louisville, Kentucky.
If you can’t afford to sit in “Millionaire’s Row” at
Churchill Downs, buy general admission tickets for the
infield. Here you can party and watch many of the rich
and well-connected. Kentucky Derby (www.kentuckyderby.

com); Kentucky Derby Festival (www.kdf.org).


Grand National, England: Competitors must face
16 challenging fences while riding around the course.
The contenders must run almost two circuits of the
course, make 30 jumps, and then there’s a long run to
the finish line. Reportedly some 600 million viewers watch this annual steeplechase
race, which is held in early April at Aintree Racecourse near Liverpool. &0151/5232600.
www.aintree.co.uk.


Preakness, U.S.A.: Poet Ogden Nash wrote, “The Derby is a race of aristocratic
sleekness, for horses of birth to prove their worth to run in the Preakness.” Held in
Baltimore in mid-May, the Preakness is the second of the three famous races—the
other two are the Kentucky Derby and the Belmont—that are called the Triple Crown
series. www.preakness.com.
Emirates Melbourne Cup, Australia: The Emirates Melbourne Cup is billed
as “the race that stops the nation,” and Australians say it’s true. This almost 2-mile
race for 3-year-old thoroughbreds, which is always held the first Tuesday in November,
is one of the richest in the world both in prizes and in the money passing among
hands through bets. Reportedly, more than $140 million was bet on the Cup alone
on tote throughout Australia. www.melbournecup.com.
The Prix de L’Arc de Triomphe, France: This annual race at Hippodrome
de Longchamp racecourse, just minutes from Paris’s Eiffel Tower, attracts entries
who have won flat races in other European countries. If you’re going to bet, choose
a horse that has the speed and stamina for this 2,400m/2.4km (7,874 ft./11.2-mile)
course. Viewers from 191 countries have watched this annual race, which happens
the first weekend in October. www.prixarcdetriomphe.com/en/index.html.
288


THE RAT RACE

The Kitchen Sink351
The Rat Race
Swinging Through the Urban Jungle
Edinburgh, Manchester, Newcastle & Birmingham, U.K.
Race across a freeway flyover, jog the
stairwell up a 12-story high-rise, abseil
down its red brick facade, cycle around a
city park, then wade through a canal weir
before assailing a rock wall into a derelict
shipyard. Cut across the abandoned dockland
and kayak along the seashore before
stopping at a food stand for a compulsory
gorge on a local delicacy such as jellied
eels or deep fried Mars bars in batter.
Then bungee jump over a motorway
bridge before descending into a drainage
system and emerging in a busy pedestrian
street full of Saturday night shoppers and
jeering drunks. The U.K. Rat Race is an
adventure with a difference, foregoing the
muddy paths and open fields of conventional
endurance races and replacing
them with all the urban obstacles that four
historic cities can throw at you.

The Industrial Revolution took place in
the British cities of Manchester, Birmingham,
Edinburgh, and Newcastle and it is in
each one that a series of 2-day rat races
takes place during the frisky English summer,
offering the perfect urban background
of abandoned factories,
meandering canals, and railway sideways
to challenge the most agile of athletes.
The race kicks off at 7pm on a Saturday
evening when black clad runners outfitted
with climbing harnesses, compasses,
head torches, and whistles fan across the
city for a 3km run (nearly 19 miles), passing
checkpoints on the way where their
electronic wristbands are passed under
scanners to collect points. Extra points
can be gained if competitors stop to try
their hand at karaoke, boxing, or speed
cycling without brakes. Organizers don’t

make it any easier by pelting runners with
eggs and smearing the finishing line with
banana skins and butter.

Yet the Rat Race is a masterpiece of
organization with the entire course meticulously
planned, right down to the event
village from which the race starts. It offers
food stalls, outfit shops, and impromptu
classes in rock climbing, kayaking, and
abseiling for the uninitiated. Competitors
do not have to be uber-athletes (though
the event does attract its fair share of ultra
marathon runners) as the race is split into
three ability levels with the super elite having
extra challenges to perform.

The lesser elite can just sit back and
enjoy the ride, especially on the second
day, which is a 60km (37-mile) cycle
around the city, broken up with a round
of paintball or potholing. Despite the
urban backdrop, the circuit takes in
everything that is beautiful about these
four British cities with open parks, canal
paths, and woodlands all on the itinerary.
It is certainly a better way to see a city
than from the back of an open top bus.
Anybody can enter and entrance fees
vary from 30 to 80 (approx. $50–
$125) depending on the level you choose.
Teams of two or three people complete
the course and the variety of activities
and their often tongue-in-cheek manner
means that if the climbing, ducking, and
jumping don’t make you breathless, the
laughter surely will.—CO’M

www.ratraceadventure.com.
WHEN TO GO: Throughout the summer in
different U.K. locations.

289


RACES & FESTIVALS

The Kitchen Sink 352
Tough Guy Race
The Macho Masochists
Perton, Wolverhampton, England
Belly crawl beneath a 12m (40-ft.) pit of
barbed wire before climbing a pole to
assail a netted tower woven with electrified
wire charged enough to knock out a
bull. Below is a field of nettles for those
unfortunate enough to fall. Then run, leaping
across some bales of burning hay
before wading chest deep through a freezing
mud pond criss-crossed with hidden
telegraph poles. You must then creep
through 10 dirty narrow sewage pipes,
one of which is a dead end. There is not
enough room to turn around so you must
crawl backwards shouting to your fellow
participants right behind you that the way
is blocked. Then you must swim through

One tough guy helps another at the Tough Guy
Race.


an underground tunnel filled with pitch
black muddy water that has only two small
air pockets if you run out of breath. If you
happen to collapse and drown, other participants
must trod over you before
emerging to warn a team of scuba divers
that a man is down. They have 3 minutes
to fish you out before your brain dies from
lack of oxygen.

The Tough Guy Race certainly lives up
to its title. This 13km (8-mile) sadistic exercise
in extreme endurance will test the
phobias of the most hardened Rambos.
Beforehand, all participants must sign a
health risk waiver reassuringly called a
“death warrant.” Major sponsors avoid
putting their name to the event, terrified
they will be liable to “blame and claim.”
One year, seven competitors broke their
legs, and hundreds suffer regularly from
hypothermia. The winner gets no prize
and not even a shower at the end. Participants
must bathe in filthy troughs of water
before drying off and going home to nurse
their wounds. Yet this event, held just
outside the old industrial city of Wolverhampton,
is always oversubscribed and
the 4,000 places always filled. Organizers
now hold a summer, autumn, and winter
edition to satisfy the demand for this exercise
in masochistic endurance.

The first event was held in 1987 with 103
participants running the gamut of streams,
woodland, and mudhills on a 103-acre farm
incongruously titled Mr Mouse Farm for
Unfortunates in the townland of Perton. Mr
Mouse turns out to be a loquacious exmarathon
runner called Billy Wilson. A pioneer
organizer of such famous runs as the
London Marathon, Mr. Wilson got bored
with the monotonous slog through empty
city streets and decided to set up his own
off-road gauntlet inspired by World War I

290


BIRDSVILLE RACES

trenches, Vietcong tunnels, and Russian
prisoner camps. Indeed many of the participants
are service men from both Britain
and overseas with a fair share of SAS personnel
trying their luck. Yet it is a Bristol
bricklayer called Vito Graffagnino who has
proved the ultimate tough guy, winning
this grueling race on three occasions with
a record time of 57 minutes. Only 60% of
the runners pass the finish line and there is
a cutoff time of 5 hours, meaning stragglers
are disqualified. Women are also
welcome and many have completed this
grim obstacle course lovingly titled the
“killing fields.” The race requires a high
level of teamwork and cooperation with
fellow participants pushing each other on
through the most terrifying of installations

The Kitchen Sink353
Birdsville Races
Horses for Courses
Birdsville, Queensland, Australia
that include a rope bridge that is just that,
a thin rope strung between two trees four
stories high. Not for the fainthearted. —
CO’M

www.toughguy.co.uk.
WHEN TO GO: Tough Guy takes place
three times a year. Check website for specific
dates.
Birmingham (34km/21 miles).
$$ Travelodge Wolverhampton
Central, Bankfield House, Wolverhampton
(&44/871/984-6221; www.travelodge.
co.uk). $$ Barons Court Hotel, 142 Goldthorn
Hill, Blakenhall, Wolverhampton
(& 44/1902/34-1751; www.baronscourt
hotel.viviti.com).

In 2002, the famous Birdsville horse
race meeting had a problem—no horses.
Equine flu had forced trainers and owners
to keep their race horses away this particular
year. Not that anybody noticed. Thousands
still gathered in this remote desert
town to party over the weekend, cook
kangaroo burgers over campfires, race in
wheelie bins, and wrestle steers. This
quintessential Ozzie outback experience
has become more important than the
races themselves, with a carnival atmosphere
that sees bush poetry readings,
country and western singing, and standup
comedy shows. Thousands of revellers
come and camp out in this town of 100
residents at the eastern edge of the vast
red stretch of sand dunes known as the
Simpson Desert. Everybody is remarkably
friendly, oiled somewhat by lots of liquor
and beer.

Such friendliness disappears if you step
into the ring at the Fred Brophy boxing tent.

Here you are challenged to fight a selection
of fighters with names like Crush and White
Lightening. There is a dramatic drum roll as
you step into the arena and if you are tough
enough to knock out your opponent you
walk away with a large money purse. Such
casual prize fighting is banned elsewhere,
earning what happens in Birdsville the slogan
“only in the Outback.”

Birdsville is 1,610km (1,000 miles) from
the provincial capital Brisbane, with little
in between but dirt track and dunes. The
race meeting here is probably the most
isolated in the world and many people
choose to arrive by light aeroplane. The
local airfield quickly fills up with single
engine Cessnas as they ferry punters to
and fro. The aviation link does not stop
there. The races are a major fundraiser for
the Royal Flying Doctor’s Service, an aerial
ambulance that covers the vast interior of
Australia. The Simpson Desert alone is
181,300 sq. km (70,000 sq. miles) in size

291


RACES & FESTIVALS

with some of the longest parallel dunes in
the world, some reaching 30m (98 ft.) in
height. It gets only 20cm (8 in.) of rain a
year and is so inhospitable that the authorities
have resorted to closing large chunks
of it every summer to prevent the recurrence
of hapless, ill-prepared tourists getting
into trouble in the mid-day sun.

There is not much to Birdsville town
itself. Originally a droving toll station, the
abolition of droving tolls in 1901 saw the
town go into steep decline. It now comes
to life the first weekend of September
with this 2-day event that attracts every

The Kitchen Sink 354
White Air Extreme Sports Festival
Catching Some Air
England
outback eccentric between here and Alice
Springs, with a fair share of high rollers
and good timers for good measure. And
now, of course, there are horses. —CO’M

WHEN TO GO: First weekend of Sept.
Brisbane or the small airfield in
Birdsville.


Camper vans, cars, tents. The only
hotel in town is closed to the public during
the races. Many people sleep out in the
open.

You love skateboarding, but hate to give
up kitesurfing. High-diving is a blast, but
you’ve always wanted to try the Brazilian
martial art known as capoeira. A rollicking
outdoor concert is just your thing, but

not if it means you can’t spend all day on
a jet ski. How is an intrepid adrenaline
adventurer supposed to choose? At the

White Air Extreme Sports Festival,

you don’t have to. The only problem


The White Air Extreme Sports Festival is as much fun for spectators as it is for participants.

292


THE RICKSHAW RUN

you’re likely to have is deciding which
adventure to have first.

The 3-day festival is held each year in
early autumn on the scenic shores of England’s
southern coast. Past festivals have
taken place on the Isle of Wight and at
Brighton Beach; check the website for the
next festival’s dates and locations.

If you’re at all into outdoor sports with a
guaranteed rush of excitement, you’ll be
in your element at White Air. Roughly 40
different activities are represented at the
event. Some such as mountain biking and
surfing are well known; for others, such as
bocking, parkour (see ), and slackline,
you might need an extreme-sports glossary.
(Bocking, also known as powerbocking
or powerizing, is running with large
curved stilts that act as springs. Parkour
involves running, jumping, and clambering
across a landscape riddled with obstacles.

The Kitchen Sink355
The Rickshaw Run
The Three Wheel Trip
India & Nepal
Slacklining is a balance sport using a thin,
flat nylon web; it’s similar to tightrope
walking except the line stretches, allowing
for bouncing and other gymnastic moves.)

As you might expect at an extreme
sports event, the crowd skews young, and
there’s a palpable sense of carefree fun in
the air. Most of the sports at White Air allow
newbies to try the activity through the festival’s
Have a Go program; just sign up for a
free lesson through the website. And don’t
miss out on the rest of the fun—each year,
high-energy bands from the U.K. and
beyond perform at the festival. —ML

White Air Extreme Sports Festival
(www.whiteair.co.uk).
WHEN TO GO: Sept/Oct. Check website
for exact dates and location.

The Indian Auto Rickshaw is a beautiful
machine. This three-wheel urban workhorse
weighs 272kg (600 lb.) and has a top
speed of 55kmph (34 mph). Its 150cc,
2-stroke single cylinder engine powers a
seating bench on wheels so small they
would not look amiss on a wheelbarrow. It
has no suspension worth noting and lacks
a fuel gauge so riders know when it has
run out only when it sputters to a halt. Run
on a toxic mixture of oil and gas, it ferries
people to and fro in the sprawling mega
cities of the India subcontinent. It is the
last vehicle you would choose to do a
4,830km (3,000-mile) cross-country race
from India to Nepal. In the marathon
adventure known as the Rickshaw Run, it
is the only vehicle you can choose.

Dirt tracks, tropical jungles, and Himalayan
peaks are just some of the obstacles

encountered on this mad cap chase that
attracts up to 60 teams for an event so popular
it is now held three times a year. Perhaps
more formidable are the everyday mundanities
thrown up by this colorful continent,
such as wandering elephants, aggressive
water buffalo, and lake-size potholes. Certainly
most terrifying are the mammoth
buses and trucks that dwarf the rickshaws
on the chaotic highways. Organizers advise
participants to keep to minor roads as the
main thoroughfares are rickshaw deathtraps,
as can be seen from the frequent
crumpled wreckage along the roadside.

The route is a route in the loosest sense
of the word. Riders are encouraged to
take whatever way they choose with only
a handful of meeting points to drop into
along the way. Starting and finishing lines
vary, but in general the race begins and

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RACES & FESTIVALS


The Rickshaw Run raises lots of money for a
variety of charities.

ends in either Goa, Southern India, or
Pokhara in Nepal. In between, the rolling
tea hills of Ghats and the scorching deserts
of Rajhastian are just some of the
multitude of landscapes riders traverse.
Once undertaken, there is absolutely no
support provided by the organizers and
drivers are expected to use their wits and
cunning to get themselves out of the many
scrapes and mishaps encountered along
the way. Team numbers are unlimited but
in general, three to four people ride a
rickshaw. An unlikely 14 is the record.

The Kitchen Sink 356
The Death Race
The Pits
Pittsfield, Vermont, U.S.A.
Participants can choose to sleep wherever
they like and the run is usually done in 2
weeks, though digressions are encouraged
with the emphasis on the fact that
the Rickshaw Run is not a race but an
adventure. A website keeps friends, family,
and sponsors informed of each team’s
progress and the event begins and ends
with a round of cricket and gin and tonics.

First started in 2006, the Rickshaw Run
is put together by a Bristol-based collective
called The Adventurists in the U.K. The
entrance fee is $1,400 per team and this
gets you a rickshaw that must be returned
in working order at the end of the escapade.
Participants are also compelled to
donate at least $1,600 to charity, and
teams often raise much more for a vast
array of worthy causes. In fact, charity fundraising
is one of the main motives behind
the venture, as well as the desire to encourage
people to get off the beaten track and
throw caution to the wind. “Tropical stupidity
in slightly powered tin cans” is how the
Adventurists themselves describe it. Just
make sure to pack a can opener. —CO’M

www.rickshawrun.theadventurists.com.
WHEN TO GO: Jan, Apr, and Sept. Check
website for exact dates.

Contestants arrive at a wet and muddy
farm in the Vermont Hills at 8pm. They
register and weigh in at 11pm and have
little chance to sleep before the race starts
at 3am. They set off with a bike frame on
their backs and rucksacks filled with hatchets,
shovels, handsaws, duct tape, and
pruners. They will need every one of these
as they negotiate an obstacle course
designed to test mind, body, and spirit.

The first test is to dig up a well buried tree
stump and drag it a mile upriver. Then
they must push a bucket through a waterfilled
culvert and haul a sack of sand under
a pit of barbed wire. There is a 2,000-foot
(600m) climb to a mountain peak, where
contestants must memorize a list of American
presidents before descending and
repeating the list to a steward. Then there
is a pile of logs to be split before crawling

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THE BANGER RALLY

through a mud tunnel, at the end of which
is a Lego cube that must be noted and
reconstructed again at the bottom of the
trail. Fail to get the colored blocks exactly
right and the runners must crawl up the
mud tunnel again, all the while carrying an
egg that must be cooked on a fire ignited
in the rain. Then each participant must
haul 20% of their body weight in rocks up
another mountain. Then a wheel barrow is
supplied to push cement across a sloping
field. They then arrive at a river where
their bicycle chains are thrown into a deep
pond and must be retrieved.

Sleep deprivation, mind games, physical
torture, and freezing cold are just par for
the course at the Death Race in Pittsfield,
150 miles (242km) south of Burlington. The
10-mile (6.2km) race usually has 40 participants
who must complete the circuit in 24
hours. Only 20% do so as they dig, dive, run,
and crawl through obstacles designed by a
sadist. It is the most absurd form of abuse
thought up by two running veterans who
grew bored with marathons. The New York
Times described it as “Survivor meets
Jackass” as the mud covered entrants pit

The Kitchen Sink357
The Banger Rally
Scrapyard Scramble
England to Gambia, Africa
their wits against the most devious of
obstacles and often find the most mundane
task such as log splitting the most difficult.
The grand prize for such herculean effort is
$2,000, with two Marines crossing the finish
line in 2009 in tandem to share the
spoils. They completed the course in a
mere 12 hours, which shocked the organizers
into thinking it was way too easy.
Heaven knows what tricky impediments
they’re now devising for an annual trial that
is attracting more and more pain seekers. A
miner’s hat is an essential part of the equipment,
as are a pen and paper to tackle the
Lego conundrum. Life jackets are optional,
and sanity is best left at home. —CO’M

www.peakraces.com.
WHEN TO GO: June.
Burlington (84 miles/135km).
$$ Hampton Inn Rutland, 47 Farrell
Road, Rutland (& 802/773-9066; www.
rutland.hamptoninn.com). $$ Red Roof
Inn Rutland, 401 U.S. Rte. 7 S., Rutland
(&802/775-4303; www.redroof.com).

It is a long way from England to Gambia;
7,245km (4,500 miles) to be precise or 3
weeks of blood, sweat, and tears if you
choose to do the journey the hard way—in
an old car with an engine half as powerful
as your average lawnmower and absolutely
no A/C. The journey involves crossing
roadless deserts for 3 days with no
stops for water or gas. The 90°F (32°C)
temperatures are made worse by the fact
that you must drive with the windows
closed because of the sand storm and
with the heating on to cool down the overheating
engine. Lethal sand pits that
would ground a powerful 4WD, never

mind an old, yellow Fiat rescued from a
scrapyard, are just some of the surprises
along the way. High roads wind over the
epic Atlas mountains and through lush valleys.
You pass through deserted towns,
desolate plains, and chaotic cities where
gangs of impoverished children mount the
hood begging for change. There is an
81km (50-mile) coastal strip in Mauritania
that must be traversed except it can only
be done at low tide, which lasts 3 hours
every day. Get stuck, and the sea will wash
you away, and there is no coast guard to
pick you up. French traffic police, Spanish
drivers, and monster Moroccan trucks are

295


RACES & FESTIVALS


You never know what challenges await you in the course of the Banger Rally.

just some of the obstacles on this epic
3-week race across Europe and Africa. And
it must be all done in a car you would not
trust to take you as far as the corner store.

The rules are simple in this race, formally
known as the Plymouth-Banjal Challenge,
but more popularly referred to as the Banger
Rally. All participating cars must have a value
of less than .100 ($170) and repairs and
preparations cannot exceed .15 ($26). The
race was thought up by a determined motorhead
called Julian Nowill who wished to
counteract the expense of entering famous
off-road races such as the Dakar Rally. Multimillion-
dollar cars and support teams, as
well as a $10,000 entrance fee, means that
this famous trans-African rally is now only
open to the mega-rich. The Bangar Rally is an
antidote with a philosophy of the cheaper,
the better and also the crazier, the better.

Two hundred tarted up Volkswagens,
Peugeots, and Mazdas tear out of Plymouth
town every December and January. They
take the ferry across to France and then
travel south over the Pyrenees and across

the Iberian peninsula to Gibraltar for the final
African leg to Banjul, the capital of Gambia.
Vehicles include old camper trucks and even
an ice cream van that was converted into an
ambulance at its final destination. Amazingly,
many cars survive to be sold off as
taxis in Gambia with the entire proceeds
going to a local charity. Cars abandoned
along the way are usually swiftly stripped by
the locals. Team names include the Cone
Dodgers and the Badger Racing Boys. There
is zero support from the organizing body
and participants are expected to negotiate
their own entrance into each country and
use their own initiative to get out of any
sticky spots. There is no prize money to
speak of, but just the achievement of finishing
is enough to attract 800 applicants every
year. Amazingly, most drivers manage to
finish the race, with much cooperation and
camaraderie along the way. They rally
together, so to speak. —CO’M

www.plymouth-banjul.co.uk.
WHEN TO GO: Dec–Jan.
The Kitchen Sink 358
Global Scavenger Hunt
Dream Trip for Adventure Travelers
Around the World
Do you want to swim with baby elephants, bargain in some of the world’s most exotic
lend a helping hand at a Tibetan refugee bazaars? If you have a thirst for adventure
camp, witness a Himalayan sunset, and and an Indiana Jones–style personality,

296


GLOBAL SCAVENGER HUNT

the Global Scavenger Hunt may be the
ultimate trip-of-a-lifetime for you.

“It’s like Survivor, The Amazing Race,
and the Eco-Challenge all rolled into one
except with much more cultural interaction,”
is how one contestant, Marvin S., of
Canada, described his experience. During
the whirlwind 3-week Global Scavenger
Hunt, travel adventure competition racers
visit 10 countries on four continents. They
start the race on the U.S. West Coast,
learn where they are traveling next with
little or no notice, and finish the competition
on the U.S. East Coast 3 weeks later.
Audacity, daring, flexibility, and inventiveness
are just some of the qualities required
to win this race, which combines authentic
cultural experiences and behind-thescenes
access to such activities as cooking
with a Michelin-starred chef, finding
Buddha’s tooth, photographing a wild
orangutan, and participating in an authentic
archaeological dig. While finding the
clues and participating in novel experiences,
teams are tested on the difficulties
of handling extended travel and on how
team members deal with each other.

But what makes this global travel-athon,
during which competitors may travel
a million kilometers (620,000 miles), so
special is the overall annual goal: Raise
$1 million for life-changing organizations.
The money has helped fund micro-loans in
Third World countries; helped construct
three schools in Niger, Sri Lanka, and
Sierra Leone; and supported Doctors
Without Borders and Partners in Health,
and other organizations.

So far, people from 45 countries have
applied for spots in the race, making the
competition a truly international experience.
The annual Global Scavenger Hunt is
limited to 25 two-person teams. (Singles
may apply.) Teams must pay or raise the
entry fee, which is $9,900 per person. The
fee covers international airfare, 23 nights
in first-class hotels and about 40% of the
meals. Teams who raise more can earmark
the funds for specific charities.
Because some of the funds go to nonprofits,
part of the entry fees may be tax
deductible. —LF

&310/281-7809. www.globalscavenger
hunt.com.
The Global Scavenger Hunt takes you all over the world and benefits charitable causes.


Challenge yourself to finish a
Texas size portion in under an
hour at the Big Texan Steak Ranch.


RACES & FESTIVALS

10
1010
Extreme Eating Contests

Some gastronomical experiences are all about quality—the finest wines, the freshest
herbs. Then there are dining events where the accent is on quantity, and a race to
consume the greatest volume of food consumed as quickly as possible. The competition
is international in scope, because there really is such a thing as a professional
eater, something your high school guidance counselor neglected to mention. Perhaps
she didn’t realize that many eating contests have purses as rich as $50,000. —ML


The Texas King, Amarillo, Texas, U.S.A.: Eating champion Joey “Jaws” Chestnut
finished in 8 minutes, 52 seconds—but a 500-pound (228kg) Siberian tiger reportedly
polished off the whole thing in 90 seconds. How long would it take you to engorge 72
ounces of steak, plus baked potato, ranch beans, shrimp cocktail, salad, and roll with
butter? At the Big Texan Steak Ranch, you’ve only got 1
hour to consume the whole meal, or you’ll forfeit the $72
you paid in advance for the dubious honor of completing
the Texas King challenge. www.bigtexan.com.


Nathan’s Hot Dog Eating Contest, Coney
Island, New York, U.S.A.: Each American Independence
Day, tens of thousands gather at this aging seaside
resort to watch one of the world’s most famous
eating contests. The winner walks off with $10,000 and
the right to wear the Coveted Nathan’s Mustard Belt.
To enter this competition you must qualify by winning a
regional contest that season, and the International Federation
of Competitive Eating (IFOCE) strictly supervises
this competition. www.nathansfamous.com.
Jalapeno Eating Contest, U.S.A.: Laredo, Texas, and Chicago vie for the honor
of hosting this contest, which is sponsored in part by La Costena Mexican Foods. Pat
“Deep Dish” Bertoletti, a Chicago hometown hero, currently holds the world record,
consuming 266 of the little green spitfires in just 15 minutes. www.ifoce.com.
The Wing Bowl, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, U.S.A.: While eating contests
aren’t really known for their decorum, the Wing Bowl may take the prize for the
raunchiest competition. The extreme partiers start in the parking lot, where orange
traffic cones are routinely used as beer funnels, and drunken fans screaming profanities
and throwing trash and food are the norm—spectators in the front rows are
advised to wear rain ponchos as a result. http://wingbowltickets.ticketwarehouse.com.
A Local State Fair, U.S.A.: The contest here is between you and your arteries—
which will give out first? Vendors today compete to see who can come up with the
most hedonistic fare. You have three choices of serving style: Deep-fried, on-a-stick,
or deep-fried and on-a-stick. The Wisconsin State Fair is the reigning heavyweight
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10 EXTREME EATING CONTESTS

champion with chocolate-covered bacon—yes, on-a-stick—and peanut butter and
jelly sandwiches that are dipped in pancake batter and deep-fried. The Iowa State
Fair touts chocolate-covered key lime pie on-a-stick and fried pickles on-a-stick. Not
to be outdone, Minnesota offers a deep-fried Norwegian banana split.


Krystal Square Off, Chattanooga, Tennessee, U.S.A.: The purse for eating
the greatest number of little square hamburgers in eight minutes has been increased
to a whopping $50,000. Contestants must participate in regional qualifiers, and
they’ll then have to face Joey Chestnut and Takeru “Tsunami” Kobayashi, who routinely
trade first and second place titles at this battle royale. www.krystalsquareoff.com.
Nisei Week Festival Gyoza Eating Championship, Los Angeles, California,
U.S.A.: Also called potstickers, gyozas are tiny, tasty fried dumplings that are a
delicious staple of Japanese and Chinese cuisine. So it should be easy to eat, say 200,
right? Just ask Sonya “The Black Widow” Thomas, a petite 99-pound (45kg) champion
eater who, in 2006, downed 210 in 10 minutes, only to be shut out by Joey Chestnut,
who scarfed down 212. Chestnut currently holds the world record at 231 gyozas, but
Pat Bertoletti gets hungrier every year and, as the world’s second-place record
holder, is always nipping at Chestnut’s heels. www.niseiweek.org.
World Grits Eating Championship, Bossier City, Louisiana, U.S.A.: Grits
are the comfort food for millions of Southerners. Harrah’s, the gaming industry giant,
and the International Federation Of Competitive Eating (IFOCE) have joined forces to
create the World Grits Eating Championship at Harrah’s Louisiana Downs. This is a real
heavyweight brawl: At the 2007 competition, Pat Bertoletti engulfed 21 pounds (9.5kg)
of grits in only 10 minutes, the most food by weight ever consumed by anyone at an
eating contest. www.harrahs.com.
Best in the West Nugget World Rib Eating Championship, Sparks,
Nevada, U.S.A.: Ribs are the kind of food that nobody really gets enough of—sweet,
succulent, meaty and oh-so-rib-sticking good. At the Best in the West Nugget Rib Cook-
Off, you won’t have to stop, until the buzzer sounds and time’s up. The world recordholder,
Joey Chestnut (yes, again) consumed 9.8 pounds of these delicious meat sticks,
defeating up-and-comer Rich LeFevre, who broke his left front tooth in the rapid-paced
competition. Do you think that slowed him down? No—he just swallowed the tooth
and kept munching. Now that’s the stuff of champions. www.janugget.com.
World Deep-Fried Asparagus Eating Championship, Stockton, California,
U.S.A.: Folks gather at the Stockton Asparagus Festival each April to celebrate
the green, stringy vegetable, a harbinger of spring. Here, the asparagus are deepfried.
Hungry yet? Pat Bertoletti was, when the world-class gurgitator consumed
over 7 pounds (3.2kg) of the veggies to steal the championship from former recordholder
Joey Chestnut. www.asparagusfest.com.

8 Urban Thrills 8 Urban Thrills

SYDNEY HARBOUR BRIDGECLIMB

369
Sydney Harbour BridgeClimb
A Walk of Steel
Sydney, Australia
No other bridge in the world offers this
kind of adult playground. The Sydney
Harbour Bridge has been an icon ever
since it was completed in 1932. But it
didn’t become an adventure destination
until 1998 when the BridgeClimb was
created for folks who couldn’t get enough
of the structure simply by driving, riding
the train, or walking across it.

Today, there are two ways to get a
closer look at the bridge’s intricacies and
even reach its highest point. Opt for the
Discovery Climb, which offers a longer and
more challenging route into the heart of
the bridge rather than over it. Until 2006,
only maintenance workers had access to
many of the pathways that you can now
walk across during this 31.2-hour urban
hike. As you ascend the steep staircases
and ladders, winding through hatchways

and girders suspended high above speeding
cars and buses below, your guides will
discuss the Harbour Bridge’s history
through radio headsets attached to the
shapeless grey jumpsuit that you’re forced
to wear. Among other things, it includes a
device that attaches you to a safety cable
and provides a waterproof cover in case it
rains. With these provisions and your welltrained
leader, the ascent itself is perfectly
safe. But it can feel completely daunting at
times, especially when the wind blows and
traffic races below you.

As you continue heading skyward,
you’ll pass the point where the arches of
the bridge were originally joined in 1930.
When you reach the metal mountain’s
peak, you can actually go between the
arches that are 134m (440 ft.) above the
water. As you touch the raw steel and


The Sydney Harbour Bridge affords fantastic views of the city.
Previous page: The London Eye.

301


URBAN THRILLS

strong rivets holding things together here,
try not to let this awe-inspiring feat of engineering
knock you off balance. Take a deep
breath and look around at the panoramic
views of Sydney—complete with ships in
the harbor, the opera house, and skyscrapers
far below your feet. If it’s midday, you’ll
see the city buzzing with daily activities.
Early risers can climb the bridge at dawn
and watch the sunrise. Romantics can try it
at twilight. No matter what time you’re up
here, it’s clear that this is one of the world’s
most unforgettable city walks. —JS

370
The Running of the Bulls
Mean Streets
Pamplona, Spain
Sydney Harbour BridgeClimb (&61/
02-8274-7777; www.bridgeclimb.com).
WHEN TO GO: Anytime.
Sydney airport.
$$$ Park Hyatt Sydney, 7 Hickson
Rd., The Rocks (&61/02-9241-1234; www.
sydney.park.hyatt.com). $$-$$$ BLUE
Sydney, 6 Cowper Wharf Rd. (& 61/029331-
9000; www.tajhotels.com/sydney).

A man lies squealing on the floor in the
fetal position while a 1,300-pound (590kg)
bull prods him with huge terrifying horns.
Another man stands behind, pulling at the
bull’s tail in a vain attempt to attract its
attention. Another bull has a third spectator
pinned against a stockade wall while
people clamber over the same wall frantic
to escape. Hundreds of men in white pants
and red neckerchiefs mill around in a commotion
of fear and excitement as a line of
dark, angry beasts hoof their way through
the parting crowd. The famous Running
of the Bulls in Pamplona is underway.

The brave, the insane, and the very
drunk spill out into the narrow cobbled
streets of this northern Spanish city every
July for an 8-day orgy of singing, dancing,
goring, and trampling. They are celebrating
San Fermin, patron saint of wine merchants,
which is fitting considering the
amount of alcohol that is consumed during
the course of the festival. Thousands converge
here for a festival of fireworks, processions,
music, and bullfighting. The
actual bull running is takes places when the
animals are moved in the morning from

their corral in the outskirts of town, through
the streets to the bullring for almost certain
death in the afternoon. Barriers are erected
and six steers (castrated males) join the six
aggressive (in-tact) bulls as they run in a
herd through the streets in the early morning,
taking approximately 4 minutes to
cover the half-mile. Generally the bulls
ignore the crowds and make straight for
the stadium. However, if one becomes
separated from the rest, all hell breaks
loose. It becomes disorientated and attacks
anything that moves, often running the
wrong way and tossing spectators in the
air. Hundreds of people are injured every
year and there are 15 recorded deaths
since records began in 1924.

The festival has been running since 1591
and is not unusual in the sense that bull running
(known as encierro to the locals) takes
place all over Spain, parts of Southern
France, and Latin America. Pamplona is,
however, the most prestigious, made
famous by Hemingway and beamed across
the world for its dramatic photos and
near-death experiences. It is no wonder
that the casualty list every year has a strong

302


HIGH-ROLLING IN LAS VEGAS

international flavor. It’s nearly impossible to
get a hotel room during the festival, so
hundreds sleep in the park and streets during
the day. They party all night and spill out
onto the streets in the early morning for the
daily run at 8am. Anybody can participate
but you must register before 7:30am. Viewers
arrive as early as 6am to get a good
spot. Utter drunkenness is prohibited and
indeed there is nothing more sobering than
seeing a raging tank of meat and horn bearing
down on top of you. Runners are also
not allowed to provoke the animals, nor run
the wrong way.

The cruel nature of bullfighting has
meant the running of the bulls is controversial.
The animal rights organization PETA

371
High-Rolling in Las Vegas
Playing with the Big Boys
Las Vegas, Nevada, U.S.A.
conducts a Running of the Nudes through
the streets the week preceding the festival
in a light-hearted protest at the event. Yet
there is no doubting Pamplona’s popularity
and the fear factor that attracts thousands
for this carnival of carnage. —CO’M

www.sanfermin.com.
WHEN TO GO: July 6–July 14.
Bilbao (169km/104 miles).
$$ AH San Fermin Suites, Avda.
Villava 90 (& 34/948/136-000; www.
ahsanfermin.com). $$ Hotel Europa,
Espoz y Mina 11 (& 34/948/221-800;
www.hreuropa.com).

A hush falls across the elegant room as
you slowly saunter across the Oriental
carpet over to your favorite dealer.
Beneath the glitter of crystal chandeliers,
you slide into a comfortable leather chair
that affords you a view of the other players.
There’s the Count, gambling away the
last of his family’s ancient fortune, next to
the Argentine cattle baron. The waitress
takes your order—top shelf liquor, of
course—and you place your bet: $500 on
the red. Welcome to the world of highstakes
gambling, far removed from the
bling and the noise of the crowded casino
floor, where fortunes are made and lost
with the roll of the dice.

For obvious reasons, this sort of gambling
is not for everyone. At many tables,
the minimum bet starts at $100, and on
big weekends—when there’s a heavyweight
fight in town, for example—the
minimums can exceed $500. Don’t expect
to just stroll in wearing your flip-flops and
board shorts. Dress codes for ladies and

gentlemen are strictly enforced, and the
dealers and waitstaff wear tuxedos and
elegant dresses—this isn’t Hooters, after
all. Gamblers who are looking for a crazy
night out with buckets of free drinks might
also be disappointed, because the atmosphere
in these rooms is as refined as the
decor, and loud, obnoxious guests who
have been “over-served” will be escorted
out.

Most of the larger, more established
casinos have high-limit rooms with amenities
like free hors d’oeuvres and cocktails,
premium audio and video installations,
and private restrooms. Wynn Las Vegas
has an attractive outdoor balcony overlooking
their swimming pool, Caesars Palace
enjoys a reputation for top-notch
service, and the MGM Mansion is known
for the secluded atmosphere in their high-
limit area. But regardless of which casino
you choose, bring your wallet—and your
courage. —ML

303


URBAN THRILLS

Caesars Palace Las Vegas, 3750 Las MGM Grand, 3799 Las Vegas Blvd. South
Vegas Blvd. South (&866/227-5938; www. (&877/880-0880; www.mgmgrand.com).
caesarspalace.com). Wynn Las Vegas,
WHEN TO GO: Year-round.

3131 Las Vegas Blvd. South (& 877/
321-WYNN; www.wynnlasvegas.com).

372
Wild Wrestling Matches
Lucha Libre Is Truly Free Fighting
Mexico City, Mexico
Mascara Sagrada flies off the ropes and
body slams El Rayo de Jalisco. The crowd
goes into a frenzy. Okay. Tell the truth.
How often have you visited another culture
and gone to a professional wrestling
match? Have you ever considered bringing
a wrestling mask home as a souvenir
or unique gift? For an adrenaline-pumping,
raucous good time, join the 16,000
screaming fans at the Arena Mexico or
attend the lucha libre fights at the smaller
Arena Coliseo where you can get closer to
the action. Fans cheer for the tecnicos
(good guys) and boo against the evil
rudos. For between $10 and $30 depending
on the venue and your seat, you can
drink cheap beer, cheer your brains out,
and really get into it.

Lucha Libre (literally “free fight”) in
Mexico is as hokey as most professional
wrestling. The rudos usually dress in black,
the “rules” are ignored, luchadores are
thrown from the ring—as may be the referee—
fighting may continue outside the
ring, and chairs or anything else at hand
may come into play. On a good night you
might even see several luchadores come
out of the audience to mix it up. Fans
scream profanities at the luchadores, who
scream back at the fans; the fans scream
at the referees, the wrestlers scream at
the referees, and everyone gets his or her
adrenaline revved up. Luchadoras (female
wrestlers) make the program complete on
specific evenings. The best part is the fans

in their costumes (think American football
games), who even bring bicycle pumps to
use with their air horns.

Supposedly, World Wrestling Entertainment
(WWE, formerly known as the WWF,
World Wrestling Federation) got its inspiration
from the lucha libre. Remember the
fearsome Masked Marvel? In Mexico many
of the luchadores (wrestlers) wear masks
that are traced to the Aztecs and Mayans.
You can buy a copy to take home for under
$15. The mask keeps the identity of the
luchadore secret and is never taken off in
the ring. Many of the luchadores only go
out in public wearing their masks, and
many continue to do so even after they’ve
retired. It’s been reported that the great
luchadore, El Santo, who appeared in
movies as well as the ring, was buried in
his silver mask. Taking a mask off during a
match can result in disqualification and
having a mask ripped off by an opponent is
the “ultimate” disgrace.

Mexico City is huge and crowded with
almost every imaginable activity to keep
the visitor occupied. Horse racing and
horseback riding are close by, as are
cycling, scuba diving, and snorkeling. —LF

www.luchalibreaaa.com.
TOURS: Mexican Fiesta Tours (www.
mxfiestatour.com).
WHEN TO GO: Tues, Fri, and Sat nights.


Benito Juarez International Airport.

304


CONEY ISLAND POLAR BEAR CLUB


Av. Veracruz 102, Col. Condesa (& 800/

$$ Presidente Intercontinental,

337-4685 in the U.S. or 55/5241-2600;

Campos Eliseos 218, Col. Polanco; &800/

www.condesadf.com).

424-6835 in the U.S. or 55/5327-7700;

www.ichotelsgroup.com). $$ Condesadf,

373
Coney Island Polar Bear Club
A Cool New Year’s Dip
Coney Island, Brooklyn, New York, U.S.A.
I love a thrill as much as the next person.
Jumping out of airplanes, swimming with
sharks, skiing wild backcountry terrain—
somehow these activities make sense to
me. But taking off my clothes in the middle
of a New York winter, stripping down to
nothing but a bathing suit, and running
into the Atlantic Ocean? That’s another
story, altogether. But that’s exactly what
hundreds of people do each New Year’s
Day at Coney Island, Brooklyn’s famed
beach and amusement park from days of
yore, at the annual Polar Bear Club swim.
The Cyclone roller coaster (see ), which
looms large over the beach, is a fast-paced

thrill ride to be sure, but jump into 35°F
(2°C) waters below, and it’s literally breathtaking.


For the annual New Year’s Day swim,
hundreds of people assemble on the
boardwalk at Stillwell Avenue to take the
plunge. Hundreds of others observe
nearby. Ask swimmers why they do this,
and the answers are varied. Some say they
do it to raise money for charity. (Neither
swimmers nor observers pay a fee, but a
donation to the club’s partner, Camp Sunshine
[www.campsunshine.org], a getaway
in Maine for sick children and their
families, is encouraged). Others go for it


Daredevils and cold-water enthusiasts rush the waters off Coney Island on New Year’s Day.

305


URBAN THRILLS

on a dare. Still others believe there are
health benefits to a dip in frigid waters.
Aficionados claim that an icy plunge helps
boost the immune system to ward off a
cold, the flu, or relieve the symptoms of
chronic maladies such as arthritis. Whatever
their reasons may be, one thing all
the participants can agree on is that it’s an
experience they’ll never forget.

The Polar Bear Club recommends that
in addition to your bathing suit, swimmers
bring a towel, cozy after-swim footwear,
dry warm clothing, and a friend (for photos
and post-swim assistance, if needed). I’d
add a pre-swim discussion with your doctor
and a thermos of hot liquid to this list of
requirements. For first-timers it is usually
suggested that you turn off your brain,
take a breath, and go quickly. Be prepared
for a cold-water shock that can leave you
breathless. Upon surfacing in the waves,
some participants splash around a while in
the chilly water, though more often than
not, they hightail right back to the shore. If
there happens to be snow on the beach,
you could always take a quick roll in it for
an added adrenaline rush before dressing.

374
Mardi Gras & Jazz
Partying in the Streets
New Orleans, Louisiana, U.S.A.
In addition to the swim on New Year’s
Day, the Coney Island Polar Bear Club
invites potential members to join them for
swims at 1:00pm any Sunday between
November and April, after which they may
start the official membership process. Bernard
MacFadden founded the Polar Bear
Club in 1903 and the Coney Island group
claims to be the oldest of its type in the
country. The L Street Brownies of South
Boston can date their existence back to
1904, but they continue to search for earlier
documentation. —LF

Coney Island Polar Bear Club (&917/
533-3568; www.polarbearclub.org).
WHEN TO GO: Sun, Nov–Apr and every
New Year’s Day.


JFK (17 miles) or LaGuardia Airport
(22 miles).


$$ Excelsior Hotel, 45 W. 81st St.
(&800/368-4575 or 212/362-9200; www.
excelsiorhotelny.com). $$$ Le Parker
Meridien, 118 W. 57th St. (& 800/5434300
or 212/245-5000; www.parker
meridien.com).

“Throw some to me,” you shriek to the
costume-clad revelers on the Mardi Gras
parade float passing slowly by. Batting
away other outstretched hands, you manage
to snag one of the bead necklaces
tossed into the crowd. The thrill of Mardi
Gras, the culmination of two months of
Carnival celebrations, reaches its apex as
the parades make their way down the
streets of New Orleans. From the masquerading
partiers all about town to the
carousers on Bourbon Street to the allconsuming
pleading for “throws,” at
parades, Mardi Gras is festivity from start

to finish, with plenty of opportunity for
thrills over the course of the celebration.

Mary Herczog, author of Frommer’s
New Orleans, is an expert on “throws.”
She has both tossed throws from a float
and been in the crowds—she calls the
fanaticism surrounding the trinkets “bead
lust.” As she explains, “First you stand
there passively. All around you the strands
fly thick and fast. You catch a few. ‘Hmm,’
you think, ‘they look kind of good around
my neck.’ You reach more aggressively as
the strands fly overhead. ‘Wait. That guy/
cute girl/kid got a really good strand! How

306


SKATEBOARDING MILLENNIUM PARK

come I’m not getting any like that!’ Now
you find yourself shrieking ‘Throw me
something, Mister.’ You jump. You wail.
You plead. You think, ‘This is really stupid.
It’s a 5. piece of plastic—oh, look a really
glittery strand! I want it. I want it.” The
enthusiasm and excitement of a Mardi
Gras parade is infectious.

You may have images of the more tawdry
side of these parades, perhaps of
women baring their chests, so the stud on
the float will throw an extra nice set of
beads to them. But there are more civilized
and family-friendly spots from which
to watch and hopefully participate. One of
these areas is along St. Charles Street,
where the parades are on one side of the
street, while only foot traffic is allowed on
the other. Bourbon Street is the setting for
a more debauched scene, where you’ll see
vulgar activity among the often drunken
crowds.

New Orleans is also associated with
musicians playing mellow jazz. During quieter
days (before and after Mardi Gras),
you may be able to sit on a balcony in the
French Quarter and hear the sound of a
saxophone wailing in the distance. If
you’re a jazz fan, the annual New Orleans
Jazz & Heritage Festival (Jazz Fest) is a
must. It takes place annually in late April to
early May. This festival offers its own set of
thrills. Every spring, the festival showcases
jazz, gospel, Cajun, zydeco, blues,

R&B, rock, funk, African, Latin, Caribbean,
folk, and much more on a dozen stages.
Since its inception in 1970, some of the
world’s greatest musicians, ranging from
Wynton Marsalis, Fats Domino, and Harry
Connick, Jr., to the Preservation Hall Jazz
Band, Miles Davis, and Jimmy Buffet, have
performed. Fans flock from around the
world to see their beloved favorite musicians.
The energy at Jazz Fest is high, even
if some of the acts take it slow and easy,
like the city itself. —LF

New Orleans Metro and Convention
Visitors Bureau (& 800/672-6124;
www.neworleanscvb.com). New Orleans
Jazz Fest & Heritage Festival (& 504/
410-4100; www.nojazzfest.com).
WHEN TO GO: Carnival season is early Jan
through late Feb. Mardi Gras (always a
Tues) takes place every year 47 days
before Easter.


New Orleans.
$$ Bourbon Orleans Hotel, 717
Orleans St. (& 504/523-2222; www.
bourbonorleans.com); $$–$$$ Loews
New Orleans Hotel, 300 Poydras St.
(&800/23-LOEWS [235-6397] or 504/5953300;
www.loewshotels.com); $ Prytania
Park Hotel, 1525 Prytania (& 800/8621094
or 504/524-0427; www.prytaniapark
hotel.com).


375
Skateboarding Millennium Park
Street Riders to Pros Play Here
Calgary, Alberta, Canada
The first time you drop in the 4.2m (14-ft.)
section of the concrete clover bowl at
Shaw Millennium Park, I hope you’re
ready. I also hope you’re a really good
skater and that you’re wearing your helmet
and pads—because you’ll be going
extremely fast and the concrete is hard.

Hopefully, you’ll have practiced in the 1.2m
(4-ft.) and 3m (10-ft.) bowls first or, more
appropriately, at the beginner (Intro) and
intermediate (Central) areas of the park.

Though western Canada is renowned for
extreme skiing opportunities, there’s also
plenty of fun to be had sans snow. At the

307


URBAN THRILLS

Shaw Millennium Park is a haven for skateboarders.
Millennium Skate Park, there’s plenty of
room for boarders of all skill levels—from
street riders to pro-level experts such as
Devin Morrison, one of the best skateboarders
in Calgary, who periodically
shows up. Called the world’s largest skate
park, when the next phase is completed it
will cover more than 8,360 sq. m (90,000
sq. ft.). According to a city report, there are
more than 10,000 skateboarders in Calgary.
The park is open 24/7 and attracts an
average of 1,000 users daily. (It’s less
crowded on weekdays and evenings.)

The Intro Area is set up with a pool, small
rails, curbs, stairs, and ledges. This is a
great place to learn drop-ins, Ollies, and get
really comfortable. The Central Area is awesome
with higher rails, a six-foot bowl with
metal coping, stairs, ledges, pyramids, pool
type wall rides, banks, larger transitions,
double drop. Here you can work on those
vert Ollies, Axle Stalls, catch some air, and
Rock to Fakie. Then there’s the oh-my-gosh
Expert Park. How about a 30-foot full-pipe
connected to a 15-foot halfpipe, and a clover
bowl with 4-, 10-, and 14-foot sections?
Rippers heaven! This is a park for observers
as well as participants.

Calgary is a major Canadian city with
numerous museums, world-class shopping,
and great restaurants, including the
Teatro and the Belvedere. Eau Claire
Market (pedestrian only) and Prince
Island Park are great to just relax and
take it easy. The Glenbow Museum has a
wonderful interpretation of the settlement
of western Canada and the life of its Native
tribes. Hiking, running, fishing, and biking
are popular pursuits within the city. Banff,
one of the truly beautiful mountain towns
in the world, is only an hour and a half
drive from Calgary. —LF

Shaw Millennium Skate Park, 1220
Ninth Ave. SW (& 403/268-2489; www.
calgaryskateparks.ca).
WHEN TO GO: Year-round.
Calgary.
$$ Kensington Riverside Inn, 1126
Memorial Dr. NW (& 877/313-3733 or
403/228-4442; www.kensingtonriverside
inn.com). $$$ Fairmont Palliser, 133
Ninth Ave. SW (& 800/441-1414 or
403/262-1234; www.fairmont.com).



RIDING THE LONDON EYE

376
Riding the London Eye
Big Wheel, Bigger View
London, England, U.K.
The world’s largest observation wheel, the
London Eye, is like a giant Ferris wheel,
but with capsules that hold up to 28 people,
instead of the usual two-seater
arrangement of a Ferris wheel. This is no
mere amusement park ride—after all,
what is there to see from the top of ordinary
Ferris wheels? From the top of the
Eye, you can take in a glorious view, the
vast panorama of one of the world’s greatest
cities.

Opened in 2000, it is the fourth-tallest
structure in London. How high are you?
Picture stacking 64 red London phone
booths atop each other and you’ll get a
sense. You’re 135m (443 ft.) above the city
when you’re at the top of the Eye.

Passengers are carried in 32 air-conditioned
“pods” that make a complete revolution
every half-hour, hardly a breakneck
pace—at the bottom, the pods keep moving,
but so slowly that disembarking is no
problem. The capsules are surrounded by
windows, allowing riders to take in the
dramatic London skyline.

From the top of the wheel, in clear
weather, you can gaze in all directions for
some 40km (25 miles)—as far as Windsor
Castle—over this famously spread-out
metropolis, easily spotting not only the
Gothic spires of the Houses of Parliament
and Westminster Abbey across the river,
but also the British Museum, St. Paul’s
Cathedral, Nelson’s Column in Trafalgar

Square, Buckingham Palace, the Tower of
London, Tower Bridge, and the green
necklace of parks that runs through central
London.

At 424m (1,391 ft.) in circumference, it’s
the world’s largest observation wheel.
Built out of steel by a European consortium,
it was conceived and designed by
London architects Julia Barfield and David
Marks, who claim inspiration from the
Statue of Liberty in New York and the Eiffel
Tower in Paris. Some 2 million visitors are
expected to ride the Eye every year.

The Eye lies close to Westminster Bridge.
(You can hardly miss it). Tickets are .16 for
adults, .12 for seniors and students, .7.75
for children 5 to 15. It’s open October to
May daily 10am to 8pm; June to September
daily 10am to 9pm.—LF

London Eye, Millennium Jubilee Gardens
(& 0870/5000-600; www.london
eye.com).
WHEN TO GO: Year-round.
London.
$$$ London Bridge Hotel, 8–18
London Bridge St. 9 (&44/20/7855-2200;
www.londonbridgehotel.com). $$ Vicarage
Private Hotel, 10 Vicarage Gate,
South Kensington (& 44/20/7229-4030;
www.londonvicaragehotel.com).


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URBAN THRILLS

9
99
Breathtaking City Views

We’ve devoted many of the pages in this book to fast-paced, quick-moving adrenaline
adventures. But we think that slowing down and taking the time to stand still and
take in an extraordinary view can be a thrill on its own. Each of the following city
views is spectacular. —LF


Table Mountain, Cape Town, South Africa: During the 10-minute ascent in
the cable car to the top of Table Mountain, which towers over Cape Town, the view
begins to stretch from urban to endless ocean. Step out of the car and there are
paths to meander that lead to 360-degree views. You’ll see Cape Town, Table Bay,
Robben Island (the prison-turned-museum where former South Africa president
Nelson Mandela was incarcerated for many years), and even the Cape Peninsula,
which is nearly the southern tip of Africa. If you want to stretch your legs, take one
of the hiking paths up or down this mountain, which tops out around 1,068m (3,560
ft.) above the ocean crashing against Africa’s shores below. See
for information
on abseiling down Table Mountain. www.tablemountain.net; www.capetown.travel.


Victoria Peak, Hong Kong, China: It’s just an optical illusion. Those tall buildings
you‘re passing only look like they’re leaning, as you ride up Victoria Peak in the
world’s steepest funicular railway. After the 8-minute ride to the top, the bustling
Hong Kong Harbor and its islands are laid out before you. From the viewing area on
the Sky Terrace, your eyes are drawn to the intense blue of the water surrounding
the islands packed with buildings. Take time to walk on some of the lush footpaths,
such as the one that leads into Victoria Peak Garden. www.thepeak.com.hk/en.
CN Tower, Toronto, Ontario, Canada: The ride to the Observation Deck at
the skinny CN Tower in urban Toronto takes just 58 seconds in a glass-sided elevator.
When you step out you’re on the Look Out Level at 341m (1,136 ft.) above sea level.
From the Observation Deck, you’ll find awe-inspiring 360° views. For a bigger thrill go
one level below, step out on the Glass Floor, and look down. To reach the Sky Pod
for a sky-high view of Toronto, you’ll need to take a second elevator, which shoots
up another 33 stories. You can also dine in 360, the revolving restaurant on the
Observation Deck. www.cntower.ca.
Red Rocks Amphitheatre, Morrison, Colorado, U.S.A.: Denverites love to
attend concerts at Red Rocks, an open-air amphitheatre that’s nestled between two
towering 250 million-year-old sandstone monoliths. From the seats in the theater is
a stunning view of the sprawling Denver metro area and the farmland and prairies
beyond. On a clear day you’ll swear you can see to the Kansas border. You don’t
need a concert ticket to enjoy walking around the park’s trails that thread through
rocks and meadows. Unless there’s a concert, you can visit the amphitheatre to
learn about this site’s unusual geology, the famous musicians who’ve played here,
and lunch at a window table in the Ship Rock Grill. www.redrocksonline.com.

 9 BREATHTAKING CITY VIEWS


Petrona Towers, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia: You can see these two 88-story
buildings—the tallest twin towers in the world—from almost anywhere in the city. And
you can see most of the city from the glass-walled skybridge—the highest double-decker
sky bridge in the world. It links the 41st and 42nd floors in the two buildings. You won’t
be allowed much time on the bridge, so be prepared to take photos quickly. The bridge
tours are free, but it’s popular so get to the Towers early. www.petronas.com.my.
Shanghai World Financial Center, Shanghai, China: The view from one of
three transparent walkways on the 100th floor observation deck, the highest in the
world, is dizzying. The ground is 467m (1,556 ft.) below you and the spectacular city
of Shanghai envelopes you from all sides. From this vantage point you can also see
the Huang Pu River. www.swfc-observatory.com/en.
Top of the Rock, New York City, New York,
U.S.A.: Perhaps there’s no skyline in the world as glamorous,
glorious, and recognizable as that of New York
City. The Top of the Rock is a new three-level observation
deck on the 67th, 69th, and 70th floors of 30 Rockefeller
Plaza. Two of the floors have outdoor terraces
where you can look through big panes of safety glass to
enjoy the view. If you want a breeze along with the
view, head to the 70th floor, which has an open-air,
unobstructed view of the city, the rivers that surround
it, and beyond. www.topoftherocknyc.com.
Macau Tower Convention and Entertainment
Center, Macau: Take the glass-fronted elevator up to
the Observation Lounge, which has vast windows and
glass sections on the floor making visible the ground 220m (732 ft.) below. If you’re
gutsy, do the Skywalk X stroll around the outer rim, which is just 2m (6 ft.) wide and
has no handrails! (You’re strapped in with an overhead safety system.) If you’re fearless,
snag a quick view of Macau as you take the SkyJump, a 20-second flight over
Macau’s cityscape. This adventure is listed as the World’s Highest Commercial Decelerator
Descent in the Guinness Book of World Records. www.macautower.com.mo.


The Eiffel Tower, Paris, France: You can see most of Paris from the top of this
monument built in 1889 for the Centenary of the French Revolution. If you’ve
indulged in too much French cuisine, walk up the more than 700 steps (or take an
elevator) to the second floor. The view is nice from here, but for the best views of the
Parisian skyline you must take the elevator up to the top of the tower to the indoor
and outdoor observation decks. From here, at 276m (905 ft.), you’ll be able to pick
out famous sights, from the Arc de Triomphe and the Trocadero Gardens to the
Sacre Coeur and the Pantheon. www.tour-eiffel.fr.
An incomparable view of New York
City from the Top of the Rock.


311


URBAN THRILLS

386
Dinner in the Sky
Up, Up & Away
Locations Worldwide
If you feel like you can’t sit through another
business lunch, or the thought of attending
one more quarterly sales meeting
leaves you bored to tears, here’s a twist
that will leave you breathless: Hold your
next get-together hundreds of feet off the
ground. No, not in some skyscraper, but
on an open platform that’s suspended
from a gigantic crane.

The company behind this high-flying
idea, Dinner in the Sky, has evolved into an
international marketing group that franchises
the events in 28 countries around
the world. Locations and costs vary, and
the company arranges for local permits

Dinner in the Sky gives eating out a whole new
meaning.


and other details. The specially designed
platform can accommodate up to 22
guests, and there’s room for three chefs
or waiters in an aisle at the table’s center.
And yes, they will lower you down to Earth
when it’s time for a restroom break, then
back up again for more bird’s-eye sightseeing.


These affairs are not for those with
vertigo—guests are strapped into leather
seats that have no walls or railings behind
them. Such safety features would, of
course, block the views. And what views
they are: Guests have been transported
above the glittering casinos of Las Vegas,
the skyscrapers of London and Toronto,
the cathedrals of Amiens, France, and the
minarets of Istanbul.

Meetings and dinners aren’t the only
uses for floating aloft. Entertainment
events have included poker games and
New Year’s Eve parties. Some clients have
included a second crane with a band to
provide live entertainment (dancing is, of
course, discouraged). The company has
expanded their offerings to include Weddings
in the Sky and a range of other custom
offerings. When it comes to
developing your next creative event, the
sky really is the limit. —ML

Dinner in the Sky (& 32/02/3333810;
www.dinnerinthesky.com).
312


TRAPEZE SCHOOL

387
Trapeze School
Channeling Cirque de Soleil
New York, New York, U.S.A.
As it turns out, flying through the air with
the greatest of ease isn’t so easy. But
you’re bound to have fun trying.

Up above the crowds of Manhattan’s
busy streets, the Trapeze School of New
York is open all summer on the rooftop of
Pier 20 alongside the Hudson River. (If
you’re in town during the chillier seasons,
don’t worry; there’s also a year-round
tented location in Chelsea.) When you
arrive and meet your instructors, you’ll go
through a brief safety briefing and demonstration.
Then it’s time to strap on your
belt, hook your carabineers onto two
ropes, and begin climbing—up an
extremely narrow metal ladder for 7m (23
ft.). These steps are where the panic starts
to set in, and your heart starts pumping
faster. When you finally reach the top, take
a look at the priceless views. You’ll see the
city’s magnificent skyline on one side, and
the famous Lady Liberty standing tall in
the New York harbor on the other.

Standing on the thin wooden platform
getting ready to fly, remember to douse
your sweaty palms in chalk and keep
breathing as your instructor holds onto
the back of your belt and you lean forward
to grab hold of the trapeze bar. It’s heavier
than it looks. Once you’re in position, with
both hands steady and knees slightly bent,
the instructor yells “Hep,” and that’s your
cue to jump. Legs together, toes pointed,
stomach in, arms strong. Suddenly, you’re
swinging forward in a giant arch, high
above the crowded city streets, away
from the noise and chaos below. People
are cheering, but for a split second, all you
hear is the wind and perhaps your own
voice—unsure at this point if you’re
screaming with fear or delight (or, most
likely, both). Before you know it, another
instructor who’s on the ground, holding

your safety rope, calls “knees up.” You
immediately use the momentum to bring
your legs up to your chest and then over
the bar in one smooth move.

As your crawl over to the dismount
area, and flip yourself off the net onto solid
ground, your hands feel raw and adrenaline
is rushing through your body. As your
classmates take their turns, stretch out
and revel in what you’ve accomplished for
a couple of minutes. Before you know it,
you’re climbing up again to attempt
another skill, maybe even a split.

If you get the hang of things, your finale
performance will be to try a catch with the
professional trapeze artist swinging on a
bar opposite you. The real trick here is to
just relax and let go. Like the school’s tagline
says, “Forget fear, worry about the
addiction.” Even if you don’t master any
fancy moves during your first class, the
euphoria of simply soaring through the air,
high above New York City, is enough to
keep your head in the clouds for at least a
few days.

The trapeze school also offers lessons
in Boston, Baltimore, Los Angeles, and
Washington, D.C. —JS

Trapeze School, New York City.


313


URBAN THRILLS

Trapeze School of New York
(&917/797-1872; www.newyork.trapeze
school.com).
WHEN TO GO: Year-round at the indoor
location; May–Sept for the outdoor
classes.

388
Marrakech Markets
Northern Africa’s Bargaining Mecca
Marrakech, Morocco
JFK, LaGuardia, or Newark airports.
$$ Excelsior Hotel, 45 W. 81st St.
(&800/368-4575 or 212/362-9200; www.
excelsiorhotelny.com). $$$ Le Parker
Meridien, 118 W. 57th St. (& 800/5434300
or 212/245-5000; www.parker
meridien.com).


Treasure hunting in the walled city of Marrakech
stimulates all the senses. A daily
soundtrack of five calls to prayer blasts
from microphones in skyward-reaching
minarets. Bright carpets hang off rooftops.
Groups of veiled women in colorful
robes stroll along the city’s dusty alleyways,
while men in jellebas (traditional
robes) sit in cafes sipping steaming glasses
of sweet mint tea. Fragrant spices waft
through the breeze. Chicken tagines
infused with lemons and olives, accompanied
by heaping plates of couscous, provide
a hearty lunch. Shopkeepers extend a
pair of babouches (slippers), urging you to
caress the smooth soft brown leather.

Marrakech has been a trading center for
decades, and it continues to be one of the
world’s hottest shopping destinations. The
city has managed to retain its centuries-old
delights—Islamic palaces, comedic storytellers,
and snake charmers—while also
embracing tourism and giving itself a significant
makeover. Behind its plain brown
walls on narrow maze-like streets, you’ll
find a range of surprises—from the Souk
des Teinturiers, where pieces of colored
wool hang to dry, to a posh new riad to
leatherworkers fashioning shoes with the
same tools their great-grandfathers used,
to unconventional modern clothing and
jewelry designers.

Although Marrakech is navigable on
your own, consider arranging a short tour
with an official guide on your first morning.
(Ask your hotel to set you up with someone
reputable and knowledgeable; don’t
just go with one of the many unofficial
guides on the street aggressively offering
to show you around.)

After you’ve gotten your bearings, set
off toward the souks. But be forewarned:
Browsing and talking with local shopkeepers
in Marrakech is addictive. This adventure
can easily hold your attention for
more than one afternoon. If you want to
have a slight advantage at the bargaining
table, it pays to do your research first at
Ensemble Artisans, on Muhammed V
Avenue. Here, all prices are officially set at
fixed rates by the government, which
means there’s no bargaining. The costs
are good benchmarks to keep in mind
when you start trading offers in the souks.

When you enter a souk, it’s customary
for the shopkeeper to start a casual conversation
of small talk and offer you tea. If
you’re not interested in purchasing anything,
decline the tea politely and try not
to loiter. But once you express genuine
interest in something, let the bargaining
begin. It’s fair to counter the shopkeeper’s
original offer by about one-third, and
go back and forth two or three times. You

314


MARRAKECH MARKETS

The souk of Marrakech.
can always walk out if you don’t like the
final price, but the idea here is to enjoy
the challenge as you try to negotiate a
deal. As you barter, you don’t know
whether or not you’ll get a price you’re
happy with. If you do, you’ll come away
from the souks with more than an item;
you’ll have the memory of a thrilling and
unique experience.

Babouches (slippers), silk scarves,
handmade leather bags and poufs, and
jellebas are handsomely crafted and relatively
inexpensive souvenirs for friends
and family back home. Babouches
shouldn’t cost more than $10 per pair;
scarves shouldn’t cost more than $20; and
poufs shouldn’t cost much more than $30
or $40. But traditional carpets are significantly
more expensive keepsakes. If
you’re interested in purchasing these
beauties, make sure to study up on them
before arriving in Marrakech. You’ll want
to be educated about the wide variety of
rugs unrolled before you.

As fantastic as the souks are, the city’s
streets offer other thrilling attractions; just
wandering around and getting lost
exposes you to the sights, smells, colors,
and essence of Moroccan daily life. Stop
shopping long enough to spend time at
the Djemaa el Fna (a daily stage for entertainment,
and a UNESCO World Heritage
Site), the Bahia Palace, the Musee Marrakech,
the Ben Youssef Medersa, the Villa
Nouvelle, and at least one of the city’s
stunning gardens. —JS

Moroccan Tourist Office (& 212/
537-67-4013 or 212/537-3918; www.visit
morocco.com).
WHEN TO GO: Apr–Oct.
Marrakech-Menara Airport.
$$–$$$ Dar Les Cignones, 108 Rue
de Barima, Medina (& 212/524-382740;
www.lescigognes.com/en).


URBAN THRILLS

389
Overnights at Museums
Sleepovers with Dinosaurs
Museums in the U.S.A.
Have you ever fantasized about spending
the night in a museum and having the
whole place to yourself? You could spend
time at the exhibits and displays without
having to fight the crowds and really get to
experience the place as though it were
made only for you. Though you may not
have exactly the same experience as Ben
Stiller in the popular movie Night at the
Museum, in which the exhibits come to life
at night, you can still have an up-closeand-
personal overnight encounter. Several
museums now offer the opportunity
to spend the night inside their doors. From
flashlight tours in search of wild animals to

The kids will be thrilled to spend the night at a
museum.


visiting with Sue the T-Rex, to sleeping in
bunks on a World War II battleship, many
museums are awakening people to history
during the hours when much of the nation
is asleep.

The scenes in Night at the Museum
were filmed at the New York City American
Museum of Natural History, which
offers sleepovers for ages 8 to 12 (plus a
parent or guardian). At the AMNH, the
lights dim and everyone goes on a flashlight
tour led by museum staff, visits exciting
exhibits throughout the museum, and
sees a current IMAX film before settling
down to sleep, perhaps next to an Alaskan
brown bear or a 94-ft.-long (28m) blue
whale.

The Field Museum in Chicago has
been running the “Dozin’ with the Dinos”
sleepovers for many years. The nocturnal
adventures include family workshops, performances,
exploring museum exhibits,
and a sleeping spot in the Genius Hall of
Dinosaurs located in the Evolving Planet
exhibition. There are two packages; the
higher priced one also includes a behindthe-
scenes tour with a museum scientist.

You’ll enter the World War II era when
spending a night on the USS Missouri,
the battleship that’s now a memorial and
museum based in Pearl Harbor in Honolulu,
Hawaii. Campers experiencing the
Battleship Missouri’s overnight encampment
get a personalized dog tag, sleep in
the same area where the crew slept, store
their gear in lockers, and eat Navy-style
chow on the ship’s mess deck. The
encampments are open to scouting,
school, and other groups that meet insurance
coverage requirements.

Adult encampments may be arranged
on the Battleship New Jersey, the floating
museum on the Camden, New Jersey,

316


TAKING IN A FOOTBALL (SOCCER) MATCH IN BUENOS AIRES

waterfront across from Center City Philadelphia.
Whether it’s a group of children or
adults, the tour may include visiting the
Combat Engagement Center, where you’ll
participate in a simulated launch of a Tomahawk
missile, to climbing down the original
ladders to view the Admiral’s cabin
and sleeping in the sailors’ quarters.

This same trend is catching on in zoos.
How about a zoo slumber party for your
child’s birthday? Families, scout troops,
and school groups can take the Roar and
Snore Overnights at the Philadelphia
Zoo. Themed sleepovers, such as Critters
of the Night or Froggin’ Frenzy can be
arranged.

The age limits for children who can
attend these overnights vary from museum

390
Taking in a Football (Soccer) Match
in Buenos Aires
The Match Box
Buenos Aires, Argentina
to museum. In general, attendees must
bring their own sleeping bag. In some museums
you’ll sleep on carpeted floors, in others
on cots, and on the battleships in the
quarters actually used by the sailors. —LF

American Museum of Natural History
(& 212/769-5000; www.amnh.org).
The Field Museum (& 312/922-9410;
www.fieldmuseum.org). USS Missouri
(& 877/MIGHTYMO [644-4896] or 808/
455-1600; www.ussmissouri.com). Battleship
New Jersey (& 866/877-6262 or
856/966-1652; www.battleshipnewjersey.
org).
WHEN TO GO: Contact the museums or
battleships directly for schedules.

Boca Junior fans take up positions behind
the goal. Long blue and gold banners are
unfurled and spread across the crowd as
fireworks crackle and fizzle in the sky
above. Thousands of flags flap in the Buenos
Aires breeze, red smoke from flares
streams across the stadium, and a tangle
of ticker tape covers the green grass of the
football pitch below. The fans burst into
song just as the whistle is blown and kickoff
begins. They have come to cheer and
jeer at the Superclasico, one of the fiercest
and most important sporting rivalries in
the world between two Argentine teams,
Boca Juniors and River Plate. The venue is
Boca’s intimidating and claustrophobic
home ground known as La Bombonera
(the chocolate box), a 60,000 capacity
stadium located in a poor, working class
district south of the city center. This entire

country of soccer fanatics shuts down to
catch the game, and even the nearby tourist
tango street known as El Caminito is
shuttered up and empty as people crowd
in front of TVs in cafes, bars, and restaurants.
That’s how important football (soccer)
is here. The excitement that builds
during a match is enough to keep your
adrenaline rushing all day long.

Up in the stands the match seems to
have little impact on the crowd. The pitch
can barely be seen from under all the
flags, banners, armpits, and elbows. The
fans keep up a continuous song amazingly
to the accompaniment of a four-piece
brass band and a troupe of drummers in
the middle of all this surging chaos. Suddenly
Boca score and the entire crowd
squashes itself into a tight space by the
fence as they rush down and scream with

317


URBAN THRILLS

joy. It’s utter mayhem. This goal leads to
an even more intense continued chant
and song until River Plate score and suddenly
the Boca section is very quiet. It is
the turn of the opposition fans to jump and
gesticulate and shout obscenities.

Shortly into the second half Boca score
again and the fans, known as Barrio Bravos,
are stage diving off the top steps and
climbing the razor wire fence. The second
half passes in a burr of noise and surging
bodies. Then the whistle goes and the
place goes absolutely berserk. The riot
squad moves in on the other side of the
fence to prevent a pitch invasion. Sometimes
the pitch is overrun and it is not
uncommon to see the manager whirled
around in the air. In championship finals
the players throw their clothes into the
crowd and run around the pitch in their
underwear. People climb all over the goal
posts. The net is torn down and dissected
and disappears into a thousand pockets.
People are lying in prostrate star shapes
on the pitch. Grown men are crying. The
stadium literally bounces as the multitude

391
Dancing Tango in Argentina
Get Up & Tango
Buenos Aires, Argentina
jump up and down in pure jubilation. Eventually
the pitch simply can’t contain all this
excitement and the crowd bursts out onto
the streets. The fans have taken over a
bridge across a 14-lane highway. It’s covered
in flags and banners and human
beings. A breakaway mob has stopped the
cars and a tail snakes back for miles with
hundreds of blaring horns and youth hanging
from car windows waving flags.

Meanwhile, the opposing fans are shuffled
quickly out the back, cursing bitterly
and swearing revenge the next time
around. —CO’M

Boca Juniors (www.bocajuniors.
com.ar); River Plate (www.cariverplate.
com.ar).
WHEN TO GO: Year-round.
Buenos Aires.
$$$ Tailor Made Hotel, Arce 385
(& 54/11/4774/9620; www.tailormade
hotels.com). $$ Miravida Soho Hotel
and Wine Bar, Darregueyra 2050 (&54/
11/4774-6433; www.miravidasoho.com).


Men and women gather in a dimly lit salon,
chatting casually at round tables before
the mournful chords of an accordion echo
around the room. The crowd suddenly
breaks into a set of couples. They embrace
and, cheek to cheek, sweep across the
dance floor. Chests together, their legs
twirl and invade each other’s space. They
pass sultry looks and caresses, accompanied
by the yearnful music. The milonga is
underway, a tango gathering where anybody
can turn up and grab a partner. They
just better know what they are doing. The
intensity and excitement of this dance are

historied, and participants must show
their respect.

Tango was born in the late 19th century
in the poor barrios that fringed Buenos
Aires City. Waves of immigrants, mostly
Italian but also Spaniards, Jews, Arabs,
French, Irish, and Poles, began arriving on
Argentine shores. Though they arrived
from all over the world, they had much in
common. They were young, single, and
working class. They harbored an immigrant’s
feelings of loneliness, displacement,
and nostalgia. And they all, of
course, had a love of music.

318


GAME SHOW CONTESTANT

A new type of popular culture was born
in the city’s bars and bordellos. Tango
became its voice, echoing stories of lost
loves and sad memories. The music and
dance evolved. Some men took it so seriously
they practiced together for want of a
partner (the girls were just too expensive).
Their moves became a source of pride and
perhaps a chance to improve their appeal
to the opposite sex.

The new dance from the barrios was
disdained by the rich establishment. It was
uncouth and immoral. They banned their
daughters from practicing it. Yet the sons
of the aristocracy were attracted by its
romance and danger. They slummed it in
the arrabales (city fringes) and picked up
some steps. Packed off to university in
Europe, they brought this new erotic
dance with them. It was enough to give a
puritan a heart attack. Kaiser Wilhelm
banned it. Prince Louis of Bavaria
denounced it as absurd. (Strangely
enough Pope Pius was unimpressed and
called it too languid for his tastes.) All to
no avail—the chattering classes took to it
enthusiastically and the tango became the
music and dance of European high society
in the 1920s. The tango craze began.

Europe legitimized the tango. The highclass
salons of London, Paris, and Rome
reverberated with the music. What was

392
Game Show Contestant
Come On Down!
New York, New York, or Los Angeles, California, U.S.A.
born in rags, now wore a tux. Yet Buenos
Aires will always be its center. It is a mecca
for thousands of tango dancers around
the world who visit the seductive Argentine
capital to try their steps in a multitude
of venues. Dancehalls vary from elaborate
belle epoque theaters with gilded box
seats to grungy warehouses with new age
wall hangings and tattooed clientele. One
of the best and most historied tango
shows in the city is El Querandi (Peru 32;
& 11/4345-0331). The style here now is
sexy, with its origins as a bordello with all
male dancers. (Call for showtimes and
prices.) Another great tango palace is
Esquina Carlos Gardel (Carlos Cardel
3200 at Anchorena; &11/4876-6363).

The music is very much alive and evolving,
varying from classic instrumentals to
crooning divas. There is even a languid
modern dance version called tango electronica.
—CO’M

WHEN TO GO: Year-round.
Buenos Aires.
$$ Gurda Tango Boutique Hotel,
Defensa 1521, San Telmo (&54/11/43070646;
www.gurdahotel.com). $$ Tanguero
Boutique Hotel, Suipacha 780 (&54/11/
4328-7006; www.tanguerohotel.com).


The lights are blazing upon your sweating
face, the live audience is squirming in their
seats, and Alex Trebek is waiting for your
answer. Tick, tick, tick. “What . . . is . . . the
Bay of Fundy?” you mutter. Bing! “Correct!”
he hollers as you exhale nervously,
adding $200 to your score and thanking
your lucky stars that you stayed awake
during geography class. If you’ve been

watching game shows like these from the
comfort of your living and saying to yourself,
“I can do that,” then give it a go and
show the world that you can be the next
big winner. Whether it’s a trivia show like
Jeopardy! or a game of chance like Wheel
of Fortune, the producers are looking for
contestants like you.

319


URBAN THRILLS

Different game shows have different
criteria for their contestants, and the
application process for each reflects that.
Most have eligibility requirements that
stipulate the applicant not be related to
anyone working for the parent company,
and not have appeared on any version of
the show before. Some shows like Who
Wants to Be a Millionaire? choose their
contestants from a group of eligible guests
at a live New York City taping of the show;
they have already completed a written
test and an interview process. Jeopardy!
requires a rigorous online test and a live
audition at their studio in Culver City, California.
Contestants for The Price Is Right
aren’t chosen at random from the hundreds
of audience members at the show’s
Los Angeles taping, but are screened
beforehand at an interview process.

Location counts: Los Angeles and New
York are the best places to be, because
most tapings occur in those cities. Out-oftowners
visiting those places may actually
have an edge, since producers like to have
contestants from across the country—if
you’re planning a trip to either of those
cities, apply ASAP. There are also occasional
tapings that occur around the country;
Jeopardy! even has a Brain Bus that

393
Rolling the Dice in Monte Carlo
Luck, Be a Lady Tonight
Monte Carlo, Monaco
tours the country looking for potential
contestants.

Regardless of which show is your favorite,
some basic tips apply. Make sure you
watch the show regularly enough to know
the rules and some winning strategies.
Some experts recommend getting the
board game or playing online versions of
the show. Practicing public speaking is as
important as practicing the game itself—
producers don’t want players to freeze up or
panic when the cameras are rolling. Just like
when applying for a job, little things count,
like filling out your application properly and
dressing for success. And, as in everything
else in life, enthusiasm counts and may be
the thing that separates you from the thousands
of other people applying for the right
to hear those famous words: “Johnny, tell us
what she’s won!” —ML

Jeopardy! (& 800/482-9840; www.
jeopardy.com). The Price Is Right
(& 323/575-2458; www.etix.cbs.com).
Who Wants to Be a Millionaire?
(& 800/433-8321; www.millionairetv.
com). Wheel of Fortune (& 800/4829840;
www.wheeloffortune.com).
Joseph Jagger did it in 1873 while playing
high-stakes roulette, taking advantage of
an almost-imperceptible glitch in the roulette
wheel. Charles Wells did it several
times in 1891 and 1892. And who knows,
with lady luck at your side, you too may
break the bank at the Monte Carlo Casino.
Steeped in the glamour of old-world
Europe and the mystique of James Bond,
the casino is one of the most popular destinations
in this tiny principality on the

French Riviera, known for years as a playground
for the world’s super-wealthy,
super-tanned, and super-ostentatious.

Surrounded on three sides by France
and on the fourth by the Mediterranean,
Monaco can be reached by way of several
rail, bus, or highway connections to other
coastal cities. (The best way to arrive, of
course, is on your private yacht.) There are
several casinos in Monte Carlo, but the
most famous and the only must-see is the

320


ROLLING THE DICE IN MONTE CARLO

opulent 1863 Beaux Arts palace designed
by Charles Garnier, who also created the
Paris Opera. Though the Monte Carlo
Casino once enforced a strict dress code,
that has relaxed considerably in recent
years, and jackets are now “recommended”
for gentlemen after 8:00pm in
some of the gaming rooms, but not all.

Regardless of how you dress, carry a
good wallet—many of the gambling
salons here, such as the Salons Prives and
the Supers Prive, have high limits. Others,
like the Salle Blanche and the Atrium, are
appropriate for folks who are happier playing
a few casual hands at slot machines.
And remember to bring your passport or
ID card, because the casino is strictly offlimits
to citizens of Monaco. Perhaps

that’s because it’s a little like the Fort Knox
of Monaco: The casino is the principality’s
main source of income. —ML

Direction du Tourisme et des Congres
(&377/92-16-61-66; www.monacotourisme.
com).
TOUR: Casino de Monte-Carlo (& 377/
98-06-21-21; vip@montecarlocasinos.com).
WHEN TO GO: Year-round.


Nice, France (24km/15 miles).
$$$ Hotel Port Palace, 7 av. John F.
Kennedy (& 377/97-97-90-00; www.port
palace.com). $$ Hotel Balmoral, 12 av.
de la Costa (& 377/93-50-62-37; www.
hotel-balmoral.mc).



9 Animal Encounters
Up Close & Personal . . .323
Safaris . . .342
From a Distance . . .348
Along for the Ride . . .358
9 Animal Encounters
Up Close & Personal . . .323
Safaris . . .342
From a Distance . . .348
Along for the Ride . . .358

DIVING WITH GREAT WHITE SHARKS

Up Close & Personal394
Diving with Great White Sharks
A Close Encounter with Jaws
Dyer Island, South Africa
If you’ve ever been fascinated by great
white sharks, but shudder at the thought
of actually coming into contact with them
in nature, it’s time to face your fears. Over
the past several years, cage diving with
real-life Jaws has become one of South
Africa’s most popular wildlife adventures.

To experience your own meet-andgreet
with these mighty predators, get up
early and head to Gansbaai, a quaint fishing
village just 2 hours by car from Cape
Town. Most dive boats depart from here
and explore the waters around Dyer
Island, a breeding ground for penguins,
and Geyser Rock, home to more than
50,000 seals. The channel between these
two islands is known as “shark alley,” and
it’s arguably the world’s best viewing spot
for great white sharks. Thousands of the
migratory creatures move through this
area during the South African winter. For
more information about protecting sharks
and their marine environment, check out
the South African Shark Conservancy
(www.sharkconservancy.org).

After a quick breakfast and an informative
overview about what you’ll soon see,
it’s time to set off into the Indian Ocean,
where you’ll be on the water for approximately
4 hours. (Tip: If you tend to get
seasick, take precautions; the seas can get
extremely rough.)

As you start out enjoying the views
from your relatively safe perch on the
boat’s deck, your crew will search for a
place to anchor. Once settled, they’ll
begin spooning fish-based chum—a
smelly mixture of mashed up sardines,
sardine oil, and tuna—into the water to
begin attracting the stars of the show.

Soon, it’s time to overcome your trembling
knees and dive in for a closer look.

Dressed like a seal in a black hooded
wetsuit, with big goggles and a mask on
your face, you and four other passengers
will get into a metal cage that’s tethered to
your boat in the water, and wait. From
overhead, the crew will quickly hang ropes
with live bait—probably tuna—trying to
lure the sharks even closer to you. When
the dive master yells “shark, on the bait,”
you’ll drop into the cold cloudy water, with
goggle-covered eyes wide open. You’ll
spend about 20 minutes in the cage below
the surface.

If you’re lucky, an open-jawed great
white will swim right past you, dive for the
bait as the crew swiftly takes it away,
maybe knock your cage, and continue on
its way. The waters can be murky, making
visibility low, but even a young shark
grows to almost 4m (12 ft.) and weighs
nearly half a ton, so it’s pretty hard to
miss. Once you’ve got a dorsal fin in your
line of sight, hold steady and, if you dare,
try to catch a glimpse of its deep blue eyes
before it whooshes past you. —JS

Cape Town Tourism Information
Center, Shop 107 Clocktower, V&A
Waterfront (& 27/21-405-4500; www.
tourismcapetown.co.za).
TOUR: Marine Dynamics Tour, Gansbaai
(& 27/028-384-1005; www.sharkwatchsa.
com).

WHEN TO GO: July–Sept.
Cape Town Airport.
$$ The Cape Cadogan, 5 Upper
Union St., Cape Town (& 27/21-480-8080;
www.capecadogan.com).


Previous page: Gorilla and young in Rwanda.

323


ANIMAL ENCOUNTERS

Up Close & Personal 395
Night Diving with Manta Rays
Big Wings off the Big Island
Kona, Hawaii, U.S.A.
Manta rays are huge, magical beasts.
Although completely harmless, they can
be awfully intimidating at first sight as they
propel themselves through the water with
wingspans that reach up to 5m (16 ft.),
long skinny tails, and up to a ton of weight.
Watching these gentle giants glide, pivot,
and somersault above your head in the
middle of the ocean’s dark lair is one of
scuba diving’s biggest thrills.

There are a few places in the world
where you can dive with manta rays in
their natural environment (Micronesia and
Mexico are two others), but the Pacific
Ocean off the Big Island of Hawaii is probably
the best. In fact, divers often call the
clear calm water off of Kona “manta
heaven.” The two volcanoes here, on the
western side of the island, have helped

create an underwater paradise of caves,
cliffs, and tunnels that attract a stunning
array of marine life. Diving during the day
offers a wide variety of mind-blowing
sights. Yet the most unforgettable dive
must be done at night.

Beneath the moonlight, as you descend
9m to 21m (30–70 ft.) into the ocean and
shine your dive lights up toward the surface,
millions of miniscule organisms congregate,
attracted to the glow. Mantas, in
turn, are attracted to the plankton you’ve
made appear and they come quickly to
feast on the dinner being served with wide
open mouths. As they gracefully push
through the water like cape-wearing ballerinas,
you’ll be amazed by how close
they come to you, sometimes just an inch
away.


Night diving with manta rays in Hawaii.

324


SWIMMING WITH CROCODILES

In such close proximity to your new
nimble friends, you might be tempted to
pet one. Resist the urge. The rule with
mantas is to look but not touch. You don’t
want to risk scraping off a layer of mucus
and subjecting the mantas to bacterial
infection. For more information on
research, education, and conservation
efforts, visit the Manta Pacific Research
Foundation (www.mantapacific.org).

In the depths of the ocean, the adrenaline
surges fast. As you’re gazing in wonder
at the manta rays, a moray eel might
tickle your legs on the prowl for fish. You
may also see shrimp, crabs, and some
sleeping sea creatures. After 45 minutes
or so (the length of a typical dive), the divers
turn off their lights and start rising
toward the surface for air. As their audience
exits, the mantas slowly disperse.

Up Close & Personal396
Swimming with Crocodiles
Defying Danger Down Under
Darwin, Australia
Even if you’re not scuba-certified, you
can still witness the mantas’ dance. Snorkelers
are permitted to watch the show
from the surface. While you won’t get as
close as divers or be in control of the food
supply, you can still get a good rush from
this position. —JS

Big Island Visitors Bureau, 65–1158
Mamalahoa Hwy., Kamuela (& 800/8851655;
www.bigisland.org).
TOUR: Jack’s Diving Locker, 75–5813
Alii Dr., Kailua-Kona (& 800/345-4807;
www.jacksdivinglocker.com).

WHEN TO GO: Year-round, though summer
and fall offer the best conditions.
Kona airport.
$$ Waianuhea, 45-3505 Kahana Dr.
(& 808/775-1118; www.waianuhea.com).


The majority of the world’s saltwater
crocodiles, locally known as “salties,” live
in Australia’s Northern Territory. These
predators are some of the oldest and
largest living reptiles on Earth. A male
crocodile can grow to almost 6m (20 ft.),
with his weight reaching up to 998kg
(2,200 lb.). A powerful muscular tail
takes up about half of his length to propel
him through the water at almost 15km
(9 miles) per hour, twice the speed of an
Olympic swimmer. Crocs also have the
strongest bite force ever measured.
Clearly, getting close to one of these
creatures would be an awfully dangerous
endeavor. Except in Darwin’s new Crocosaurus
Cove, where adrenaline seekers
can safely come face-to-face with
Choppa, a 5.5m (18-ft.), 771kg (1,700-lb.)
saltwater crocodile.

A sturdy acrylic box—called the “cage
of death”—separates you from Choppa’s
jaws (and the rest of his body), but that
doesn’t make this experience any less
menacing. Wearing your swimsuit and
goggles, you enter the “cage,” an enclosed
see-through structure without bars.
You’re then lowered into the water, where
you can spend a heart-thumping 15 minutes
marveling at the massive croc.
Choppa might try to hug your cage, bare
his giant teeth, or swim around you.

When your pulse slows down after this
fear-factor stunt, spend some time exploring
the city of Darwin. Set on the Timor
Sea, this mining and tourism center is the
largest and most populated city in the
Northern Territory, but the least populous
of Australia’s capital cities. Inhabited by the
Larrakia Aboriginal people for thousands of

325


ANIMAL ENCOUNTERS

years, Darwin wasn’t settled by Europeans
until the 19th century. Since then, what
began as a pioneer outpost and small port
has developed into a modern and multicultural
city, as well as an important gateway
to nearby Asia. For visitors, it makes a great
base for trips into other parts of the Northern
Territory, including Kakadu National
Park, Litchfield National Park, and Katherine
Gorge. —JS

Darwin Visitor Centre, 6 Bennett St.,
Darwin (& 61/8-8980-6000; www.tourism
topend.com.au).
Up Close & Personal 397
Snorkeling Shark Ray Alley
A Daring Dip with Sharks & Stingrays
Ambergris Caye, Belize
TOUR: Crocosaurus Cove, Corner of
Mitchell & Peel sts., Darwin (& 61/88-9817522;
www.croccove.com).

WHEN TO GO: Apr–Sept.


Darwin International Airport.
$$$ Crown Plaza Hotel Darwin, 32
Mitchell St. (& 61/88-982-0000; www.
ichotelsgroup.com). $$ Medina Grand
Darwin Waterfront, 7 Kitchener Dr. (& 61/
88-982-9999; www.medina.com.au).


Belize lies alongside the second-longest
barrier reef in the world, making it an obvious
hot spot for all sorts of scuba diving
and snorkeling. But the most spine-tingling
area to explore is Shark Ray Alley,
which is swarming with—you guessed
it—sharks and stingrays!

Off the southern tip of Ambergris Caye,
Shark Ray Alley is set within Belize’s oldest
marine reserve, Hol Chan Marine
Reserve, a narrow channel cutting
through a rich and well-maintained shallow
coral reef. “Hol chan” literally means
“little channel” in Mayan. The entire
reserve covers only about 7.8 sq. km (3 sq.
miles) and is divided into four zones. But
there’s a lot to see in this small space.

The nurse sharks and southern stingrays
swimming with you in Shark Ray Alley are
actually relatively harmless, but it sure
doesn’t feel all that way! Even experienced
snorkelers get a major rush in the shallow
water here. Nurse sharks can reach about
4m (14 ft.) and weigh almost 150kg (330 lb.).
The good news is that their diet doesn’t
include humans; it primarily consists of crustaceans,
mollusks, sea urchins, octopuses,

squid, and marine snails. Their relatively
small mouths limit the size of their prey,

Stingrays get up close and personal in Belize.


326


SWIMMING WITH MANATEES

though they can suck food into their large
throat cavities.

Southern stingrays have flat, diamondshaped
bodies, which are often grey or
brown with white bellies. Their tails are
serrated, but not venomous. Like nurse
sharks, they’re suction eaters and can
vacuum up a whole lot of grub. But they’re
generally tame and used to people floating
around them. Along with the sharks
and stingrays, you might also encounter
barracuda, moray eels, and sea turtles, as
well as plenty of fish and coral.

A couple of tips: This action-packed reef
is an extremely popular snorkeling destination,
and deservedly so. To avoid
crowds, go in the afternoon when most
cruise passengers have left and the light
is ideal. Also, as tempting as it is to reach
out and touch the rubbery sharks and

Up Close & Personal398
Swimming with Manatees
Not Cuddly, But Endearing
Crystal River and Homosassa Springs, Florida, U.S.A.
stingrays, remember that you’re not actually
in a petting zoo. Some guides will allow
you to gently stroke a shark or stingray, but
always do so with caution and only if given
a direct invitation. For more information
about nurse sharks and conservation
efforts in Belize, visit The Nature Conservancy
(www.nature.org). —JS

Belize Tourism Board, 64 Regent St.,
Belize City (& 501/227-2420; www.travel
belize.org).
WHEN TO GO: Nov–May.
Philip S.W. Goldson International Airport
in Belize City.
$$ Matachica Beach Resort, 5 miles
north of San Pedro, Ambergris Caye
(& 501/220-5010; www.matachica.com).


Be passive and don’t splash—with a little
luck these sea cows may come up and
nudge you as you swim, snorkel, or scuba
dive with them. Some may even let you pet
their cloudy-grey skin and get close enough
to see the whiskers on their sagging snouts.
These massive air-breathing mammals
need warm water to survive, and they find
it in the Crystal River National Wildlife
Refuge, in the Kings Bay area near the
town of Crystal River on Florida’s west
coast. During the winter, you may also be
able to swim with them in the Homosassa
River. Though by necessity you may be
calm in the water, the excitement you’ll
experience when you encounter these
endearing creatures will keep you exhilarated
long after you’ve surfaced.

The manatees, who can grow up to 12
feet long (3.6m), and weigh up to 3,500
pounds (1,588kg), like the waters along

Florida’s west coast and head inland along
spring-fed rivers during the winter to stay
warm. They need an undisturbed habitat,
so although once common on the rivers
throughout the Sunshine State, their numbers
have plummeted due to development.
Many bear scars from boat
collisions. Because of their tremendous
size and their tendency for slowness,
boats often hit them before they’re able to
move out of the way.

The manatees thrive in Homosassa
Springs Wildlife State Park, where the
water is only about four feet deep. Visit
the Fish Bowl, a floating underwater
observatory, and you’ll have a below-thesurface
view of manatees and fish. Over
the course of the day, you’ll have the
opportunity to participate in three manatee
programs, two Wildlife Encounters,
and an alligator program scheduled for

327


ANIMAL ENCOUNTERS

visitors who want to learn more about
Florida’s wildlife.

Several tour operators offer guided
tours on the Crystal and Homosassa rivers
for snorkeling and swimming with the
manatees. Where you go will depend
upon the time of year you visit. Some
operators offer manatee tours in the Crystal
River year-round, and in the Homosassa
River November through April.
Many tours leave early in the morning—
that’s often the best time to interact with
the manatee. The actual time in the water
is usually about 11.2 hours.

During the winter, you can also see
manatees at the Lee County Manatee
Park. Here, you can rent a kayak and go
out on the water, and learn more about
these mammals from the volunteer naturalists
onsite each day. The “manatee season”
here runs November to March. On
the Save The Manatees website you can
learn more about manatees and find a list
of other places in Florida where you can
see these massive cute creatures. —LF

Up Close & Personal 399
Swimming with Humpback Whales
Where the Whales Come to You
Dominican Republic
Crystal River National Wildlife Refuge
(& 352/563-2088; www.fws.gov/
crystalriver). Homosassa Springs Wildlife
State Park (& 352/628-5343; www.
homosassasprings.org). Lee County
Parks & Recreation (& 239-690-5030;
www.leeparks.org). Save the Manatee
(& 407/539-0990; www.savethemanatee.
org).
TOURS: Swim With The Manatees
(& 352/628-3450; www.swimwith
manatees.com). American Pro Diving
Center (& 800/291-3483 or 352/5630041;
www.americanprodiving.com).
WHEN TO GO: Winter.
Tampa (75miles/121km).
$ Best Western Crystal River
Resort, 614 Northwest Hwy. 19 & 800/
435-4409 or 352/795-3171; www.crystal
riverresort.com).

You’re lying in the water in a dead man’s
float and you hear a sound like none other
in the world. But did you hear it or did you
feel it right down to the core of your
being? Either way, you’ve just experienced
the song of a humpback whale that is
slowly swimming toward you, and you’ll
remember this moment for the rest of
your life. Being in the water with a 40-ton
creature is unlike any other animal encounter.
You’re a guest in the vast home of this
magnificent animal.

In the Sanctuary of the Marine Mammals
of the Dominican Republic, you
enter the ocean as silently as possible,

remain passive and quiet, and let the
whales’ curiosity bring them to you. Scuba
diving in the area isn’t permitted and
swimming after a whale while snorkeling
will drive them away. So you float quietly
as a 5,000-pound (2,268kg) calf comes
within touching distance and checks you
out. Mom rests quietly 40 to 50 feet (12–
15m) below you and keeps an eye out to
make sure her baby is safe.

It is almost unimaginable that humans
almost drove these incredible beings to
extinction. And, it’s just as incredible that
while they are now recovering they allow
us back into their habitat. Every year

328


SWIMMING WITH HUMPBACK WHALES


Whale-watching with a front row seat in the Dominican Republic.

between December and mid-April thousands
of humpback whales migrate to the
Silver Bank, located approximately 97km
(60 miles) north of the Dominican Republic,
to breed and calve. The location is ideal
as the water is warm, 75° to 80°F (24°–
27°C); the area is full of large, dangerous
coral heads, which minimizes boat traffic;
and the killer whales don’t inhabit these
waters. Thankfully, the Dominican Republic
declared this area a whale sanctuary in
1986.

Most tours to the Silver Bank are
booked for 7 days, although some 10-day
tours are available. The ships usually
accommodate between 20 and 30 passengers
and provide ample room for relaxation
along with food and beverages.
Whale-watching takes place from the ship
and from tenders that take you to areas
where you can slip over the side and
assume the floating position. From the
deck, you can see whales breeching, pec
slapping, skyhopping, and lobtailing. It’s
up to the experienced crew to determine
when it’s safe to enter the tenders and the
water. Not all the whales you see will be

appropriate to interact with. Many of the
whales are here for breeding and the
males get aggressive when vying for a
chance to mate.

Aside from shopping and basking on
the beach in the Puerto Plata area, visitors
can experience snorkeling, scuba diving,
deep sea fishing, windsurfing, kiteboarding,
and a limited amount of golf. —LF

Whale Routes info (www.whaleroute.
com). Dominican Republic Tourism
(& 888/374-6361; www.godominican
republic.com).
TOURS: Aquatic Adventures (& 954/
382-0024; www.aquaticadventures.com/
silver_bank). Conscious Breath Adventures
(& 305/753-1732; www.conscious
breathadventures.com).

WHEN TO GO: Mid-Jan to mid-Apr.
Puerto Plata/Santiago.
$$ Grand Oasis Marien, Puerto
Plata (& 866/863-9281 or 305/604-7880;
www.grandoasismarien.com).



ANIMAL ENCOUNTERS

Up Close & Personal 400
Diving with Sharks
Feeding Frenzy
Grand Bahama Island, The Bahamas
“Keep your hands down. We wouldn’t
want you to lose any fingers. If a shark
gets too close, bop it on the nose with
your gauges. If anyone wants to back out,
now’s the time to do it.” These were the
directions delivered during our pre-dive
briefing. After hearing the warnings,
everyone is given a chance to back out
and get their money back. Very few do.

A shark-feeding dive is a real adrenaline
rush, particularly for first-timers and those
who fear sharks. But the dives, in addition
to packing a daredevil-esque wallop, are
also educational; they allow participants
to sympathize with these wonderful creatures
that are being killed at unprecedented
rates.

Both UNEXSO and Xanadu Undersea
Adventures provide shark-feeding dives
off Grand Bahama Island. After a safety
briefing, certified divers are taken on a 30-
to 40-minute boat ride to Shark Alley.
Once in the water, divers drop to approximately
12m (40 ft.) and kneel on the bottom
with their backs to an old
recompression chamber. One or two dive
masters swim with hand spears to keep
watch over the area. As if on cue, larger
fish start to arrive and are followed by the
sharks. The sharks in this area are almost
all Caribbean reef sharks, but occasionally
a nurse shark shows up. While not usually
aggressive, 2.4 to 3m (8–9 ft.) sharks can
be quite intimidating, especially because
they’re here for a meal.

One of the dive operators serves as the
feeder. Dressed in a chain mail suit, he
takes pieces of fish from a container, holds
them out, and lets a shark grab the food
from his hand. Divers are close enough to
the feeding sharks to see the membrane
over the sharks’ eyes close as they nab the
fish. Frequently, the sharks swim right

over the heads of the kneeling divers
(remember to keep you hands down!).
During the dive, the feeder will “trance”
one of the sharks, by putting a chain
mailed hand over the shark’s nose. The
shark behaves as though it’s been anesthetized
or hypnotized and can be brought
over to the kneeling divers to be touched.
The entire experience, which needless to
say is a fantastic photo opportunity, lasts
approximately 30 minutes.

These two dive operators and several
others also provide regular scuba dives
around Grand Bahama to such sites as
Theo’s wreck and to underwater caves
and tunnels that surround the island. It’s
possible to encounter sharks on any of the
open water dives.

For those looking for shark-less encounters,
Grand Bahama Island is a tourist
center with shopping, gambling, beaches,
and numerous leisure activities. Freeport/
Lucaya has more hustle and bustle than
the more laid-back beach locations outside
of town. —LF

The Islands of the Bahamas (www.
bahamas.com/grand-bahama-island/
grand-bahama-island).
TOURS: UNEXSO (& 800/992-3483;
www.unexso.com). Xanadu Undersea
Adventures (& 242/352-3811; www.
xanadudive.com).

WHEN TO GO: High season is Dec–May.


Freeport.
$$$ Island Seas Resort, William’s
Town, Freeport (& 800/801-6884 or 242/
373-1271; www.islandseas.com). $ Royal
Palm Resort & Suites, E. Mall at Settlers’
Way, Freeport (& 888/790-5264 or 242/
352-5759; www.royalpalmsuites.com).


330


DIVING WITH GIANT SQUID

Up Close & Personal401
Diving with Giant Squid
Facing the Red Demon
Baja, Mexico
Anti-squid armor on? Check! Blue-water
diving tether properly attached? Check!
It’s time to meet the Red Demon squid of
Mexico. You’ve spent several hours in
“Squid School,” training for your first
encounter with the giant Humboldt squid,
but you’re still a bit nervous. You know
these creatures grow up to 1.5m (5 ft.)
long, weigh 32kg (70 lb.) or much more,
have big suckers on their tentacles for
grabbing their prey, and a parrot beak for
ripping flesh. There’s always the chance
that a squid could wrap a tentacle around
your leg and try to pull you downward.
Fortunately, you’re only going down to a
maximum depth of 12m (40 ft.) and you’re
tethered to your boat at the surface, so
you can be quickly pulled up should one of
gangly beasts grab on.

These super predators travel in packs
called shoals that range from tens to hundreds.
They’ve come from depths around
150m (500 ft.) up toward the surface to
feed. The pangas (local squid fisherman)
have put bait in the water to attract these
predators.

You’re escorted down to a 12m (40-ft.)
depth in the Sea of Cortez by one of the
expert divers; there you start to watch the
dance. Because of the underwater bioluminescence,
colors flash as the giant
squid swirl around. You see red, yellow,
white, and even black. Watch the squid
stalk prey, feed, and interact with each
other—it’s like nothing you’ve ever seen

before. If you feel relaxed enough, now’s
the time to start shooting underwater
photos or filming.

Shark Diver has teamed with legendary
giant squid expert Scott Cassel and C
Wolf Expeditions, who have studied,
documented, and dived with giant squid
for years. There are no formal dates for
squid diving expeditions. The trips, for a
maximum of four divers per group, are
planned when requested. Only divers who
have made at least 200 dives and have
current certification will be allowed on the
trips.

The 5-day trip centers around 3 days of
diving with the giant squid. Guests stay at
the luxurious Loreto Bay Resort, an
3,237-hectare (8,000-acre) community
neighboring the historic fishing town of
Loreto in Baja Sur, Mexico. Around the
dives there is time for other activities.
Guests have the opportunity to play golf,
go horseback riding, sailing, and deep sea
fishing. —LF

Shark Diver (& 888/328-7449; www.
sharkdiver.com).
WHEN TO GO: July–Oct.
Loreto International, Baja California
Sur, Mexico.


$$$ Inn at Loreto Bay Resort,
Paseo de la Mission (& 877/865-6738 in
the U.S. or 613/133-0010; www.explore
loretobay.com).
331


ANIMAL ENCOUNTERS

Up Close & Personal 402
Stingray City Scuba Dive
A Stingray Gave Me a Hickey!
Grand Cayman Island, The Cayman Islands
Stingrays are swimming around me, lazily
flapping their wings. I touch the top of a tiny
one swimming between my legs, and its
skin is the texture of sandpaper. As another
one swims over me, I gently touch its
underside; it’s as smooth as a cashmere
sweater. I’m scuba diving in Stingray City, a
wide sand channel in Grand Cayman
Island’s North Sound. Another one bumps
me, going for the food I’m holding in my
fist. They’re like Hoover vacuum cleaners—
as bottom dwellers they can sense and
suck up mollusks inches under the sand. I
don’t release the food fast enough, so the
stingray, who has obviously perfected his
technique with other divers at this popular
spot, does a quick side maneuver and
“kisses” my wetsuit near my hand. Startled,
I drop the food, the stingray snatches it,

Swimming with the rays at Stingray City.


and swims away. The hickey on my arm—a
bruise that lasts for days—attracts attention
at the beach bar that evening and gives
me an excuse to talk about my exciting dive
at Stingray City.

Several dive operators on the island
offer the Stingray City dive. They leave
from various points on the island, including
the Seven Mile Beach and the east end
of the island. During the boat ride out to
the dive site, a dive master or a guide will
tell you all about why the stingrays gather
here. Once, this spot in the North Sound
was popular with fishermen, who would
dump their leftover bait and fish. The
stingrays quickly realized that they could
easily find food here. Since then, the fishermen
have moved on because it became
too easy to hook a stingray instead of their
intended catch. Meanwhile, other boats
began showing up, bringing divers and
snorkelers. (The dive itself is easy—
the sandy bottom ranges from 9–12 ft./
2.7–3m deep.) Today, the number of boats
allowed here at one time is limited by wildlife
zone regulations developed by the
island’s government.

The Cayman Islands—there are three—
have long been recognized for having
some of the best diving spots in the world.
Little Cayman’s Bloody Bay Wall is one of
the longest walls in the world, with steep
cliffs descending down thousands of feet.
In addition to diving, there are plenty of
other adrenaline rush-inducing activities
including kiteboarding, one of the Caymans’
fastest growing sports, parasailing,
paddleboarding, rock climbing, and hiking.
Shoppers may get their own adrenaline
charges buying black coral jewelry
and electronics in the duty free shops in
George Town. —LF

332


  Cayman Islands (& 345/549-0623;
www.caymanislands.ky).
TOURS: Red Sail Divers (& 877/REDSAIL
[733-7245]; www.redsail.com).
Ocean Frontiers (& 800/348-6096;
www.oceanfrontiers.com).


WHEN TO GO: Year-round, but dives are
weather dependent.

Up Close & Personal403
Snorkeling with Sea Lions
Oceanic “Puppy Dogs”
Galapagos Islands
SNORKELING WITH SEA LIONS


Grand Cayman.
$$$ Westin Casuarina, West Bay Rd.
(& 800/937-8461 in the U.S. or 343/9453800;
www.westincasuarina.com). $$$ Ritz-
Carlton Grand Cayman, Seven Mile
Beach (& 800/542-8680 in the U.S. or
343/943-9000; www.ritzcarlton.com/
grandcayman).


I am floating facedown in the water looking
at white-tip reef sharks below me,
when out of the corner of my eye I spy a
small freight train coming straight at me.
Just before it crashes into my face, it veers
away. I’m relieved, but a rush of excitement
comes over me. What was that?

My first encounter with a sea lion was
while snorkeling in Gardner Bay off the
island of Espanola (also called Hood
Island), in the Galapagos Islands. Once the
initial shock of the near miss wears off,
swimming with several of these oceanic
puppy dogs becomes a delight. They’ll
sneak up on you from behind or put their
face right in your mask. At one point I
decided to tumble in the water and a
nearby mother and youngster copied me.
It was a delight akin to scuba diving with
playful dolphins.

The waters of the Galapagos are teeming
with sea life, and approximately 17% of
the species present are specific to this
region off the coast of Ecuador. Both diving
and snorkeling are fantastic, and most
tours give you the opportunity to snorkel
right from shore. Sea lions can usually be
found at Champion Inlet off Floreana
(Charles Island), the Pinnacle off Bartolome,
at Puerto Egas off Santiago (James
Island), as well as Gardner Bay. When snorkeling
in the Galapagos you’re also likely to

encounter rays, white-tip reef sharks, eels,
turtles, penguins, dolphins, marine iguanas,
and huge numbers of reef fish and
invertebrates. If you’re really lucky you
may even see a Hammerhead shark. On
land, you’ll see sea birds, giant tortoises,
reptiles, and land mammals.

The majority of visitors who come here
take a multi-day boat tour, which allows
them to visit several of the islands in the
Galapagos Marine Park. There is also

Sea Lions on the Galapagos.


333


ANIMAL ENCOUNTERS

lodging on a few of the larger islands, but
most people prefer the all-inclusive weeklong
boat-trip packages, where on-board
guides give guest lectures and lead
excursions.

If you plan to spend time in the water
bring a wet skin for the hot and wet season
(Dec–June) and a 3mm wet suit for the dry
season (June–Nov), when temperatures
hover around 66°F (19°C). These can be
purchased from your local dive shop, are
not very expensive, and will make your time
in the water more comfortable and enjoyable.
I also suggest bringing your own fins,
mask, snorkel, a mesh bag for your gear,
and an underwater camera or a soft housing
that will protect your small digital down
to at least 15 feet. Your tour company
should provide a recommended packing
list and luggage weight restrictions.

For most visitors, a trip to the Galapagos
is a once-in-a-lifetime experience, so
do what you can to see as much marine

Up Close & Personal 404
Monarchs of Michoacan
A Flutter of Excitement
Near Angangueo & Ocampo, Mexico
and land life as possible. And don’t forget
your sunscreen! —LF

Galapagos Online (& 866/681-8687;
www.galapagosonline.com). Visit Galapagos
(& 858/581-9209; www.govisit
galapagos.com).
TOURS: Ecoventura, 6404 Blue Lagoon
Dr., Miami (& 800/644-7972; www.eco
ventura.com). KLEIN Tours, Av. Eloy
Alfaro and Caralina Aldaz, Quito, Ecuador
(& 888/50 KLEIN [505-5346] in the U.S.;
www.kleintours.com).

WHEN TO GO: June–Nov.
San Cristobal or Baltra (near Santa
Cruz Island).
$$$ Royal Palm Hotel, Via Baltra Km
18, Isla Santa Cruz (& 800/528-6069 in
the U.S. or 593/5/5527-409; www.royal
palmhotel.net). $$ Finch Bay Hotel, Pinta
Estrada, Island Santa Cruz (& 593/5/5526297;
www.finchbayhotel.com).


High in the mountains of northeast Michoacan,
you’re hiking up a mountain, no
doubt fighting for breath in this altitude.
Then you arrive in a grove of fir trees—and
whatever breath you had left is truly
snatched away. It’s as if you had stepped
into a kaleidoscope, with fragments of
obsidian and gold flitting randomly around
you. The branches on all sides sway under
the weight of butterflies, massed millions
of monarch butterflies, their gossamer
wings whispering softly as the wind blows
through the forest. This is what you came
here to see—but the vision is so much
more astonishing than you expected.

The monarchs have been coming here
since time immemorial; the ancient Aztecs

revered these poisonous black-andorange
butterflies, which they believed
were the reborn spirits of fallen warriors,
dressed in battle colors. There are actually
seven monarch nesting grounds in Michoacan
(nesting season lasts from mid-Nov
to Mar). Only two, however, are open to
the public: El Rosario and Chincua, both
reachable by day trip from the graceful
Colonial-era city of Morelia, which is about
halfway between Mexico City and Guadalajara.
Save the trip for a sunny day if you
can—the effect is most dazzling with the
benefit of a little sunshine.

You can visit the sanctuaries on your
own, but a licensed English-speaking
guide is a worthwhile investment—they

334


DIVING IN AQUARIUMS

Delicate monarch butterflies envelope visitors
in Michoacan.


can answer the kids’ scientific questions,
transport you reliably over the back roads
to the sanctuary, and steer you right to the
nucleus of the butterfly colony, which constantly
shifts around the mountain throughout
the season. Guided butterfly excursions
take 10 to 12 hours and usually provide
lunch. While it varies, the hike through the
mountain forest will probably take around
an hour each way; it’s often a steep walk, so
wear sturdy shoes. One option at Chincua
is to ride up on horseback; a local handler
will lead the horse for you (facilities for renting
are at the sanctuary gate). Englishspeaking
guides can be contacted through
a cooperative called Mex Mich Guias
(www.mmg.com.mx). —HH

Michoacan (www.michoacan-travel.
com).
Morelia.
$$ Best Western Hotel Casino,
Portal Hidalgo 229, Morelia (& 52/443/
3131-328; www.hotelcasino.com.mx).
$$$ Villa Montana, Patzimba 201, Col.
Vista Bella, Morelia (& 52/443/314-0231;
www.villamontana.com.mx).

Up Close & Personal405
Diving in Aquariums
Giant Fish Bowls
Denver, Colorado, U.S.A.
Talk about living in a fish bowl! Here I am in
the Denver Aquarium—and by “in,” I mean
in the water—scuba diving alongside pink
and blue Mexican hogfish and silvery blue
tang fish. As if that weren’t exciting
enough, I also go nose-to-nose with a 350pound
(158kg) Queensland grouper,
notice through my dive mask the aquarium’s
65 year-old, 200-pound (90kg) green
sea turtle passing by, and catch sight of a
nurse shark lurking in the distance. The
most uncanny sight of all, though, is the
group of people on the far side of the glass

watching me. Even alongside all these big
fish in a little pond, I’m the rock star.

Scuba diving in aquariums—as visitors
can do in the Denver Aquarium’s “Under
the Sea” exhibition—is very different than
diving in open water. You don’t have to
contend with big waves rocking the boat
while you’re motoring out to a dive site, or
a strong current pushing you along as you
view underwater coral. Here, there’s no
real current, and you know you’re going to
see some 30 species of fish flowing around
you—not to mention all those kids on the

335


ANIMAL ENCOUNTERS

far side of the aquarium glass tugging on
their parent’s arm and pointing to you with
amazement etched on their faces.

The Denver aquarium has several underwater
programs for visitors. On weekends
you can either go scuba diving or snorkeling
through a program run by A-1 Scuba, a local
dive shop, in conjunction with Landry’s Restaurants,
which owns the aquarium. “Dive
with the Fish” puts you right in the middle of
the “Under the Sea” exhibit. “Dive with the
Sharks” takes place in the “Sunken Reef”
exhibit, where you’ll be in the company of
sand tiger sharks, zebra sharks, sawfish, and
barracuda. You must be certified and present
your SCUBA certification and a photo ID,
but the aquarium provides all equipment,
from regulators to wetsuits. If you don’t
scuba dive, you can just “Swim with the
Fish,” a snorkeling adventure for visitors
ages 6 and older.

The city of Denver is the gateway to
Colorado’s Rocky Mountains, so you can
combine urban and outdoor activities
once you leave the aquarium. Top attractions
for first-time visitors include the U.S.
Mint, the Museum of Nature and Science,
and the Denver Art Museum. On weekends,
people crowd into Lower Downtown
(which locals call “Lodo”), with its variety
of nightlife, restaurants, plays, musicals,
and symphonies at the multi-venue Plex.

In the summer, locals galore are out
walking or riding on the more than 850

Up Close & Personal 406
Tiger Tug-of-War
Battle with a Bengal
Tampa Bay, Florida, U.S.A.
miles (1,369km) of urban trails threading
the Denver metropolitan area, or heading
up to the high country to hike. In the winter,
several major ski resorts are within a
two-hour drive. Year-round, it’s an easy
day trip to visit Rocky Mountain National
Park or the U.S. Air Force Academy and
Colorado Springs.

A couple of other aquariums in the U.S.
afford the chance to swim with the fish. At
the Adventure Aquarium in Camden, New
Jersey, you can swim with sharks and stingrays.
And the Monterey Bay Aquarium’s
“Underwater Explorers” programs allow kids
to swim in the Great Tidal Pool. —LF

Downtown Aquarium (& 303/5614444;
www.aquariumrestaurants.com).
Visit Denver (& 303/892-1112; www.
denver.org). Adventure Aquarium,
Camden, NJ (& 856/365-3300; www.
adventureaquarium.com). Monterey Bay
Aquarium, Monterey, CA (& 831/6484800;
www.montereybayaquarium.com).
WHEN TO GO: Year-round in Denver.
Denver International Airport.
$$$ Hotel Teatro, 1100 14th St.
(& 888/727-1200 or 303/228-1100; www.
hotelteatro.com). $$ Castle Marne Bed
& Breakfast, 1572 Race St. (& 303/3310621;
www.castlemarne.com).


Feeling tough? If you really want to test
your strength, consider playing tug-of-war
with a Bengal tiger at Jungala, the new
4-acre (1.6-hectare) animal park at Busch
Gardens.

Jungala is mainly geared for kids, but its
tiger tug-of-war experience certainly isn’t

child’s play. Twice a day, up to six visitors
are permitted to challenge one of the
park’s 11 tigers. During this fierce competition,
you’ll be separated from your opponent
by a secure glass partition—though it
doesn’t do much to ease your trepidation.
These powerful beasts have an awesome

336


Tigers at Busch Gardens in Tampa Bay, Florida.

amount of strength. So far, the park’s
tigers, who weigh around 300 pounds
each, have a flawless record of victory,
which means that your chances of winning
are slim to none. One of the most energetic
animals typically beats visitors in
about a minute. But even if you lose while
giving it your best tug, it’s sure to be one
pretty thrilling minute.

If you can’t help lamenting your defeat,
there are plenty of rides nearby that are


PIRANHA FISHING

sure to lift your spirits. If you’re with the
kids, check out Jungle Flyers, a ziplining
experience for 6- to 13-year-olds. Your
teenagers might like Wild Surge, a fourstory
ride that shoots 14 passengers out
of a mountain crater topped with a waterfall.
But when you’re ready for a faster
ride, head deeper into Busch Gardens and
give the SheiKra a whirl. Named for a sub-
Saharan bird of prey, this roller coaster
carries you 300 feet (90m) into the air,
dangles you precariously over the side,
and then takes you down a 90-degree
drop and stops for 4 seconds. Just when
you think you can’t scream any more, it
plunges toward the ground at speeds of
more than 70 mph (110kmph), goes
around a loop, another vertical drop, then
into an underground tunnel, and finally
(thankfully) comes to a stop. After this wild
ride, you’ll have forgotten all about that
tiger. —JS

Jungala at Busch Gardens, Tampa
(& 888/800-5447; www.jungala.com and
www.buschgardens.com).
WHEN TO GO: Oct–Apr.
Tampa International Airport
(17miles/27km).
$ Hyatt Place Tampa/Busch Gardens,
11408 North 30th St. (& 813/9791922;
www.tampabuschgardens.place.
hyatt.com). $$–$$$ Disney’s Animal
Kingdom Lodge, 2901 Osceola Pkwy.,
Lake Buena Vista (& 407/939-7429;
http://disneyworld.disney.go.com/resorts/
animal-kingdom-lodge).

Up Close & Personal407
Piranha Fishing
Jaws Junior
Los Llanos, Venezuela
It is not hard to find out if the fish are biting fish have teeth after all. Just toss a twig on
on a river in southern Venezuela. Here the the water and watch it jiggle as the hungry

337


ANIMAL ENCOUNTERS

critters nibble at it. I am of course talking
about the infamous piranha, 8 inches of
razor sharp aggression with a voracious
appetite for meat and so mean they frequently
fight amongst themselves and are
prone to cannibalism. It is not unusual to
fish one out with a missing eye, a war
wound from a previous fight. To catch them
is easy as they literally bite anything. You
don.t even need a rod, just a stick wrapped
in fishing line and a small hook. Attach a
piece of meat, undo the line, swing the
hook, and throw it into the water. Hold the
line tense until you feel it tremble, then pull
sharp and you have hooked your prey as it
comes flapping out of the water giving you
the evil eye in the process. Just make sure
you can get it on the boat without biting
you. These animals are meaner than Jaws
on a holiday weekend.

Piranha are also very ugly. They have a
silver and gold scaled body the size of a
man’s hand but it is the jutting lower jaw
with fearsome pointy teeth that makes
plain they would come last in any aquarium
beauty contests, not least because
they would eat the other contestants if
given half the chance. They are unique to
South America and in particular the vast
plains of Los Llanos, a huge marshland
that stretches across southern Venezuela
and parts of Colombia. Las Llanos is a wildlife
treasure trove and we’re not just talking
of the cute furry kind: 3m (10-ft.)
anacondas lie in the shallow waters, their
black skin peeping above the water looking
like old abandoned truck tires. Fearsome
crocodile lurk along the river banks,
their long jaws open like mobile animal
traps. Fat families of capybara, the largest
rodent in the world, play in the river while
massive flocks of scarlet ibis fly overhead.

Other birds include the jabiru, scarlet
macaw, and numerous species of hawk
and heron. When you fish in the river you.ll
occasionally see the pink belly flash of a
large river dolphin, while jaguars, pumas,
and ocelots lurk in the foliage.

Vast distances and a poor road network
mean Los Llanos is difficult to get around
independently. For a true Los Llanos experience,
choose a vast ranch (locally known
as a hato) to stay in (see recommendations
below). The best provide daily field
trips on horseback or boat to explore this
massive area and of course fish the
famous piranha. You can also immerse
yourself in the region’s unique cowboy
culture where fat men in large Stetsons
sing folklore songs while strumming on
giant harps. Here the locals ride bareback
with an old rope for reins. The Llaneros, as
these rugged horsemen are known, are a
fiercely proud people whose bravery
helped Venezuela achieve independence
from the Spanish.

As you sit down for dinner in this flat
badland, a huge starry sky hangs overhead
and silent lightening flickers along
the distant horizon. No doubt a plate of
the favorite local dish will be put in front of
you—piranha. —CO’M

WHEN TO GO: Anytime but the dry season,
from Dec–June, has the best opportunity
for wildlife watching.


Caracas, then 9 hr. by car.
$$ Hato El Cedral, Mantecal, Los Llanos
(& 58/212/781-8995; www.elcedral.
com). $$ Hato Pinero, El Baul, Los Llanos
(& 58/212/991-8935; www.hatopinero.
com).



GORGONA

Up Close & Personal408
Gorgona
Welcome to the Jungle
Colombia
It hasn’t taken long for nature to regain
complete control of Gorgona island. From
the 1950s to the 1980s, this 26 sq. km
(10-sq.-mile) landmass in the Pacific was a
maximum security prison—Colombia’s
Alcatraz—but since the facility was closed
and Gorgona declared a Parque Nacional
Natural (Natural National Park) in 1985, the
jail buildings are now evocatively overgrown
with dense vegetation, complete
with monkeys swinging from vine to vine.

Like its more remote cousin to the west,
the shark-diving destination Malpelo (see ),
Gorgona is one of those places where the
natural environment is almost comically
inhospitable to humans. Poisonous snakes
slither along the floor of the rainforest here,
and menacing sharks patrol the waters just
offshore. (No doubt, this state of affairs
helped with inmate detainment during the

island’s prison years.) Visitors who come
ashore at Gorgona today are strictly supervised,
limited to groups of 80 at a time, and
forbidden from wandering too far away from
the coastline, for fear of encountering those
deadly critters. Nature is nothing if not fierce
on Gorgona.

As with so many ecosystems that have
been isolated from the mainland for thousands
of years, Gorgona shelters a wealth
of endemic plant and animal species in its
rainforests, including the small (and
endangered) blue lizard of Gorgona. It’s
said that a permanent cloud hangs over
the top of Gorgona, as its mountain peaks
are perpetually shrouded in mist. Of
course, this moisture acts as a sort of steroid
for the already aggressive tropical
flora here.


Whales and their calves can be spotted off Gorgona from August to October.

339


ANIMAL ENCOUNTERS

There is only one place to spend the
night on Gorgona, and only one place to
eat: The handsome lodge and dining room
are both run by the park service and look
like something out of Swiss Family Robinson.
With the interior of the island mostly
off-limits to visitors, tours of the island are
limited to its perimeter, which has plenty of
well-marked nature trails (though going
with a guide is highly recommended); there
it’s possible to get a good look at the
unique marine birds, reptiles, and plant life
that have grown up and evolved here. Snorkeling
and diving among the coral reefs in
the emerald waters off Gorgona are excellent
(as long as sharks don’t make you
flinch), and humpback whales even pass
by the island from August to October with

Up Close & Personal 409
Horseback Riding on Native Land
Galloping in Northern New Mexico
Taos Pueblo, New Mexico, U.S.A.
their calves. Gorgona also has some of the
finest sandy beaches in Colombia, backed
by palm trees and a thick curtain of green,
letting you know that the creepy-crawly
jungle is never far away on this island. —SM

www.parquesnacionales.gov.co.
TOUR: Aviatur (& 57/1/382-1616; www.
concesionesparquesnaturales.com).
Charter flights from Guapi, 30 min.
Cargo ship (8–10 hr.) or chartered
speedboat (4–6 hr.) from Buenaventura.


Book through park service (& 57/1/
382-1616) or tour agency.
Besides black bears, cougars, and other
assorted wildlife, few visitors may enter
the Taos Pueblo Indians’ private lands in
New Mexico, in the foothills of the Sangre
de Cristo mountains. The only way into
this stunning, wild, sacred landscape is on
horseback, under the guidance of the
Taos Indian Horse Ranch, founded by
Pueblo resident Stormstar (also known as
Cesario Gomez).

Led by Stormstar and his Pueblo compatriots,
your horse will pick its way over
rocks, trundle down water-created paths,
canter through thick forest, and gallop
through wide open meadows, always in
the presence of the magnificent Taos
Mountain. Sacred to the Pueblo, it will
likely draw you in and create its own presence
within you too as you wander
through its foothills.

Less predictable are the impromptu
appearances by local birds and mammals,
which may include bald eagles and moun


tain lions. Stormstar recalls the time even he
was startled when a black bear stepped out
from the forest onto the path three feet in
front of his favorite horse. “I had just broken
this horse, and he reared back when the
bear appeared out of nowhere. The bear
was more scared than we were though, and
he ran for the river so quickly I was the only
one in the group who saw him.”

Even the Taos ranch’s greenest horses
couldn’t be more surefooted. “They grew
up in these hills, and they don’t want to
tumble any more than you do. You just
need to give them their head,” says Stormstar.
(Translation: Don’t pull too tight on
the reins; trust your horse to know the
landscape far better than you.)

“We set the pace according the weakest
rider,” Stormstar says. After more than 35
years in the business, he and his guides can
tell how you’ll ride by the time you’re
perched in the saddle. They’ll cater to your
skills with easy trail rides or tougher treks up

340


HORSEBACK RIDING ON NATIVE LAND


The land around Taos, New Mexico, is beautiful, rugged horseback riding terrain.

into the Sangre de Cristo Mountains; some
routes require overnight stays. They also
provide covered wagon and hay wagon
rides, but it’s the horseback rides that draw
devoted fans back year after year.

If you’re not going out on an overnight
riding trip and you can arrange it, book a
private ride or go with a small group, so
that you’ll be able to tailor the ride more
closely to your skill level. More importantly,
you’ll have the opportunity to talk
with your guide rather than sitting in a
nose-to-tail group. As the conversation
deepens, you’ll learn about medicinal
plants as well as the history of the people
and what they consider their holocaust,
how they were treated by the Spanish
before and after the 1680 revolt, the 1847
siege by U.S. soldiers, and how Teddy
Roosevelt took their land for the Carson
National Forest—and how that land was
returned by President Nixon.

You shouldn’t visit Taos without going
to the Pueblo, a UNESCO World Heritage
Site. The existing structures are more than
800 years old, and the land has been continuously
occupied for more than a millennium.
Taos Pueblo residents are
conservative and private, limiting most
visitors to the town plaza area and casino.
Stormstar says Taos Ranch is the only
authorized guide into the foothills.

Much of the tourist activity in Taos
itself centers on the Plaza and the surrounding
blocks. It’s like a smaller Santa Fe
without the kitsch. The range of art galleries,
museums, shops, and restaurants satisfies
all tastes and budgets. The Taos Ski
Valley, about 18 miles (29km) from town,
accommodates all skier levels but encompasses
some of the toughest runs in the
country. Nearby Angel Fire Resort
affords skiing, golf, fishing, and, in late
August and early September, a wonderful
series of classical music concerts. —LF

Taos Pueblo, Veterans Hwy. (& 575/
758-1028; www.taospueblo.com).
TOUR: Taos Indian Horse Ranch, 340 Little
Deer Run Rd. (& 800/659-3210 or 505/
758-3212; www.taosindianhorseranch.
com).

WHEN TO GO: Year-round; best riding
May–Oct.
Albuquerque International Airport
(135 miles/217km).


$$–$$$ Casa de las Chimeneas,
405 Cordoba Rd. (& 877/758-4777 or 575/
758-4777; www.visittaos.com). $–$$ Taos
Hampton Inn, 1515 Paseo del Pueblo
Sur (& 800/HAMPTON [426-7866] or 575/
737-5700; www.hampton.com).


ANIMAL ENCOUNTERS

Safaris 410
Killer Whale Safari
Orcas in the Lofoten Islands
Nordland, Norway
Imagine, if you will, a string of northerly
isles where colorful fishing shacks stand
against a backdrop of craggy granite cliffs,
where red-cheeked children play in the
shadow of rugged gray pinnacles. Beautiful
and awe-inspiring, the Lofoten Islands
are a Grimms’ fairy tale come to life.

The Lofotens are a remote island archipelago
in the north Atlantic and a district
in the county of Nordland, Norway. The
landscape is breathtakingly cinematic,
with ice-tipped peaks fringed by deep blue
seas and a rocky shoreline fronted by
sandy beaches. The Lofoten islands
stretch 250km (155 miles) south-southwest
from the fjord of Ofoten to the outer
Roest islands. Although the islands lie
north of the Arctic Circle, the passing Gulf
Stream keeps temperatures relatively
mild. The air is fresh and clean, kissed by
sea spray and Arctic breezes.

The main islands are Austvagoy, Gimsoy,
Vestvagoy, Flakstadadoy, Moskenesoy,
Varoy, and Rost. On the eastern coast of
Austvagoy, Svolv.r is the largest town in
the archipelago. A Norwegian fjord, the
Vestfjorden, separates the islands from
the mainland. This body of water is the
heart of the Norwegian cod fisheries. If fishing
for monster cod is on your agenda,
head to the old fishing camp of Henningsvar,
with its quaint waterfront, rorbu cabins
(www.henningsvar-rorbuer.no), and
fish-drying racks—nicknamed “Lofoten’s
cathedrals.”

In late autumn, when the herring return
to the Vestfjorden for the winter, they are
chased by between 500 and 700 hungry
orcas, also known as killer whales. Orcas
can grow up to 4 to 5 tons, live to be 60
years old, and hang out with their family

their entire lives. (Well-mannered, too;
they eat only one herring at a time.) You
can take a “killer whale safari” to see these
amazing animals up close with one of several
outfitters, including Orca Tysford
(& 47/75-77-53-70; http://tysfjord-turist
senter.no/safari), which takes visitors out
on the sea by large boat or inflatable dinghy
and—if you’re really crazy—lets you
snorkel as a pod of killer whales passes by.
GoArctic/Orca Lofoten (& 47/45-83-2710;
www.goarctic.no) offers “Nature, Seabird
& Orca Excursions” from October to
mid-January.

Perhaps the most dramatic experience
in Lofoten is a tour over turbulent waters—
the “Lofoten Maelstrom” (called the Moskestraumen
by local fishermen), one of the
world’s strongest tidal currents in open
waters. The treacherous strait separating
Moskenesoy from the offshore island of
Vaeroy to the south has been called “the
world’s most dangerous waters.” Take a
ride on the Maelstrom—or just go fishing—
with Moskstraumen Adventure (& 47/
977-56-021; www.lofoten-info.no/moskstraumen-
adventure) in the town of A.

Dramatic scenery is not the region’s
only natural draw. Here, in northern Norway,
the skies give the mountains and the
sea a run for their money. The aurora
borealis (northern lights) paint the evening
skies from September to April, and in the
summer the Lofotens become the lightfilled
Land of the Midnight Sun. —AF

www.lofoten-info.no or www.visit
norway.com.
Bodo to Svolv.r.


342


From Skutvik, take the 2-hour ferry
to Svolv.r. Ferry information and reservations:
Lofotens og Vesteralens Dampskibsselskab
A/S (also known as DDF;
& 94-89-73-34 or 81-03-00-00; www.
ovds.no).

Safaris411
Gorilla Safaris
I Spy an Endangered Animal
Volcanoes National Park, Rwanda
GORILLA SAFARIS
$$$ Anker Brygge, Lamholmen,
Svolv.r (& 76-06-64-80; www.ankerbrygge.
no). $$ Nusfjord Rorbu, Flakstadoy
(& 76-09-30-20; http://nusfjord.
no).
Seeing mountain gorillas in the wild isn’t
easy, which is exactly what makes it so
exciting. Unfortunately, only about 700 of
these magnificent creatures still live in
their natural environment—in the Virunga
range of volcanic mountains on the borders
of the Democratic Republic of Congo
(DRC), Rwanda, and Uganda, and in the
Bwindi Impenetrable National Park in

Seeing gorillas in the wild is the thrill of a
lifetime.


Uganda. In other words, the chance to see
one is slim.

But a large number of endangered
mountain gorillas reside in northwest
Rwanda, often called the land of a thousand
hills, and most are found in the Volcanoes
National Park. In recent years, the
country’s tourism office (www.rwanda
tourism.com) has made great strides
toward protecting its population of apes,
but the animals remain at risk from poaching,
habitat destruction, and diseases
transmitted by humans. While gorilla safaris
generate the greatest amount of revenue
for Rwanda’s tourism industry, the
country’s priority is to maintain responsible
travel and conservation efforts. The steep
mountainous terrain and dense rainforest
acts as somewhat of a deterrent for less
intrepid or less active travelers. For others,
the country’s location near the DRC, where
insurgent groups are still involved in violent
conflicts, makes it undesirable. (Although
there were no travel restrictions on Rwanda
at the time of this writing, it is advisable to
check U.S. State Department warnings
before booking a trip.) To further limit visitors,
permit fees remain expensive at $250
and no more than 56 tourists are allowed to
enter the park each day. These obstacles
make a gorilla safari one of the world’s
most difficult, exclusive, and exhilarating
wildlife experiences.

343


ANIMAL ENCOUNTERS

For those who do journey to Rwanda,
the Virunga volcanoes—Karisimbi, Bisoke,
Sabyniyo, Gahinga, and Muhabura—make
a striking backdrop as you travel into the
Volcanoes National Park. Conservationist
Dian Fossey, who lived in this area for 18
years studying and protecting gorillas,
described the Virungas like this: “In the
heart of Central Africa, so high up that you
shiver more than you sweat, are great, old
volcanoes towering up almost 4,500m
(15,000 ft.), and nearly covered with rich,
green rainforest.” To learn more about
Fossey, her work with mountain gorillas,
and how you can help protect the endangered
species, visit www.gorillafund.org.

Rwanda’s enthralling, lush green landscape
is a good distraction during the
beginning of what can be an arduous trek.
Be prepared to hike for several hours,
climbing at altitudes between 2,400 and
3,000m (8,000—10,000 ft.), in wet and
muddy conditions, before glimpsing an
ape. Trails are often slippery, covered with
vines, leaves, and fallen branches. Along
the way, you might see golden monkeys,
buffalo, and a wide variety of birds. But
coming across mountain gorillas is what
really makes your efforts worthwhile.

Male silverback gorillas can stand taller
than 1.7m (51. ft.) (such as when beating

2their fists against their chests to show
stature or scare off opponents), and weigh
more than 181kg (400 lb.). If they feel the

Safaris 412
Lion Safaris
Walk with the Pride
Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe
need to ward off danger, they can charge,
scream, or bare their teeth—so tread carefully.
But in general, gorillas are easygoing
animals that survive on a mostly vegetarian
diet of celery, nettles, bamboo, and thistles.
You may see them going about their
daily business during the day: eating,
grooming, taking care of their young, or
resting and hanging out in a group. At first
sight, it’s hard to remember that these
huge, hairy, human-like creatures are actually
gentle and social beings, something like
the hippies of the animal kingdom. But after
an initial adrenaline rush, it’s easy to feel
peaceful in their midst. —JS

Rwanda Tourism Board, Boulevard
de la Revolution 1 (& 250/576-514; www.
rwandatourism.com).
TOUR: Gamewatchers Safaris (& 877/
710-3014; www.porini.com/gorilla_
safaris_4day.html).

WHEN TO GO: June–Sept and Dec–Feb.
(Nov is also a fine time to go, but trekking
can be particularly muddy and difficult due
to frequent rain.)


Kigali International Airport.
$$ Mountain Gorilla’s Nest (www.
rwanda-mountain-gorillas-nest.com).
$$$ Virunga Lodge, Parc National des
Volcans (& 866/599-2737; www.volcanoes
safaris.com/go/ecolodges/virunga-lodge).


Picture yourself strolling with Simba and his
friends through a Lion King incarnate. Imagine
reaching out to rub the lions’ arching
backs and soft bellies, then watching as they
stride forward with grace through the African
bush, trying to hunt their prey. Sounds
surreal, doesn’t it? Even impossible. But

that’s a pretty accurate description of what
you can actually experience during a lion
encounter in Zimbabwe.

In the Masuwe River Concession, 10
minutes from Victoria Falls, you can walk
among these golden cats as if you’re a
member of their pride. Because the animals

344


LION SAFARIS

are only 6 to 18 months old, the experience
is deemed relatively safe, but it might take
a while for your wobbly knees and racing
heart to get the message.

With only a stick in your hand, you can
walk toward groups of cubs as they run
circles around you. You can pet them,
watch them play, and stroll beside them.
It’s one of the most awesome wildlife
experiences on Earth.

But we’re not talking about a petting
zoo or swimming with dolphins here.
While lions may be cute, even young ones
aren’t completely harmless. The cubs
you’ll see and touch were raised to think of
humans as dominant members of their
pride, but they’re still predatory carnivores
and it’s important to stay calm, even
as your adrenaline flows, so you don’t
spook them. In fact, the main point of your
walk with the lions is to help them get
acclimated to the wild and develop their
natural hunting skills. You might even see
one of the older cubs make a kill; the lions
here have successfully hunted more than
25 different species ranging from birds
and rabbits to zebra and buffalo.

The unique half-day lion encounter in
Zimbabwe is part of a program that aims
to ethically introduce the offspring of rehabilitated
captive-bred African lions into
their natural environment. More than
200,000 lions used to roam the Africa continent,
but recent estimates suggest that
there has been an 80% to 90% decline in
the population over the past 30 years. The
objective of the lion rehabilitation and
reintroduction project is to replenish
depleted lion populations and safeguard
the species’ future.

To spend more time with the lions and
really help facilitate their release into the

wild, check out the longer volunteer trips
offered by African Impact’s Lion Rehabilitation
Programme (www.africanimpact.
com/volunteers/lion-conservationzimbabwe).
For 2 to 6 weeks, you can do
more than walk with these cubs. You can
feed and care for them, watch as they learn
to stalk their prey, gather data, and conduct
research on the impact of tourism on their
natural environment. You’ll also spend time
discussing conservation efforts with the
local community in schools and national
parks. And don’t worry; it’s not all work.
There’s plenty of time to play, too. You can
go on a safari or try one of the many other
adventures offered here such as white water
rafting, bungee jumping, and helicopter
rides. But the biggest thrill of all is tickling
and playing with young lions, knowing that
one day they’ll be proudly roaming the Zimbabwean
wilderness. —JS

African Lion and Environmental
Research Trust (ALERT) (& 44/0-203371-
7835; www.lionalert.com).
TOUR: Lion Encounter, 165 Courtney
Selous Crescent (& 263/13-44386/43078;
www.lionencounter.com).

WHEN TO GO: Year-round.
Victoria Falls International Airport,
connecting through Harare or Johannesburg
airports.
$–$$ Zambezi Waterfront, Victoria
Falls (& 263/13-44510; www.safpar.net/
waterfront.html). $$–$$$ Stanley and
Livingstone at Victoria Falls, Nakavango
Estate (& 27/011-658-0633; www.
stanleyandlivingstone.com).



ANIMAL ENCOUNTERS

Safaris 413
Tiger Safaris
Visit the Jungle’s Royals
Madhya Pradesh, India
Royal Bengal tigers have been literary
stars for decades—just think of Rudyard
Kipling’s The Jungle Book and Yaan Martel’s
Life of Pi. But in real life, these cats are
in pretty big trouble. Fewer than 5,000
currently live in the wild, and India is home
to less than 1,400 of them—compared to
its population of nearly 50,000 a century
ago. Poaching and forest destruction have
taken their toll on India’s national animal.
Unless protection swiftly increases and
ecotourism can play a major role in helping
that happen, your chances of seeing
these mighty creatures outside of a zoo
will continue to dwindle. Even now, it may
take hours or days before you lock eyes
with one, but if you do, you won’t be able
to move, let alone look away. Even the
sound of a tiger’s deep roar, which you
can hear from 3km (2 miles) away, is
enough to send shivers down your spine.

These huge animals can weigh up to
227kg (500 lb.) and reach speeds of 80km
(50 miles) per hour. In general, they tend
to be elusive, which makes this adventure
a slow-moving one. You’ll spend the bulk
of your time in the jungle waiting and
watching and waiting some more. But
your patience will pay off when a tiger or
tigress saunters into view.

Bandhavgarh National Park (www.
bandhavgarhnationalpark.com) in the central
Indian state of Madhya Pradesh is one
of the best places to go looking for tigers.
Set between the Vindhya and Satpura
hills, an estimated 46 tigers roam the 449
sq. km (173 sq. miles) of land here, which
is one of the highest densities of any park
in India. This area was formerly a maharaja’s
personal hunting grounds, as evidenced
by the ruins of a 2,000-year-old
fort set high on a hilltop.

You’ll explore the dramatic landscape
mostly by jeep (though elephant rides are
sometimes possible), staying on clear
paths that run through the dense jungle
and expansive grassy meadows.

While you’re keeping one eye open for
tigers, don’t forget to pay attention to the
large cast of supporting species here, including
leopards, spotted deer (chital), Sambar
deer, gaur, wild boar, wild dogs, jungle cats,
hyenas, porcupines, jackals, and foxes.
There are also numerous birds like greyheaded
fishing eagles, plum-headed parakeets,
and malabar pied hornbills.

Bandhagarh National Park was added
to India’s Project Tiger (www.project
tiger.nic.in) in 1993. The government
began this conservation endeavor in 1973
to “ensure a viable population of tiger in
India for scientific, economic, aesthetic,
cultural, and ecological values,” and there
are now 27 tiger reserves in the country. If
you want to spend more than a few days
on safari, add Kanha and Pench national
parks to your itinerary. If you’d rather stay
in Rajasthan and not travel as far inland,
Ranthambhore Tiger Reserve is a good
alternative. —JS

Indian Tourism Board, Transport
Bhavan, Parliament St., New Delhi (& 91/
011-273-11995; www.incredibleindia.org).
TOUR: India Safaris and Tours (& 91/
11-2680-7550; www.indiasafaris.com).
WHEN TO GO: Oct–June.
Indira Gandhi International Airport in
Delhi, with a connection to Jabalpur.
$$$ Mahua Kothi near Bandhavgarh
(& 866/969-1825 or 91/22-660-11825;
www.tajsafaris.com/our_lodges/mahua_
kothi).

346


CANOE WITH THE HIPPOS

Safaris414
Canoe with the Hippos
What a Big Mouth You Have, My Dear!
Rivers in Africa’s National Parks
As the hippo yawned, the huge pink crevasse
opened up and exposed rows of
sharp teeth and big tusks. Hippopotamuses
are vegetarian by nature, but even so you
carefully skirt around them while canoeing
in one of Africa’s national parks. The sight
of one next to your canoe is enough to
make your heart skip a few beats.

Paddling down the Zambezi River at its
broadest reaches in Zimbabwe’s Mana
Pools National Park, you’re gliding around
lush islands topped by wild fig trees. On
the riverbanks African buffalo are grazing,
and baboons scamper up trees as the elephants
move in to drink. In the distance,
you can see the steep hills of the Zambian
escarpment dressed in thick, scrubby
brush. Canoe safaris let you view animals
at their level. In addition to seeing the tremendous
hippos while canoeing, you may
pass elephants on the banks slurping up

water with their trunks and crocodiles
resembling rotting tree trunks motionless
in the river.

Your guides and you watch for hippos.
When a pod of them is spied all the
canoeists give them time to move to
deeper water before passing by in the
shallows close to the riverbank. You don’t
want to startle a hippo—especially males
who can weigh up to four tons. They submerge
if they feel threatened and can
pop back up to the surface anywhere,
including underneath your canoe, possibly
capsizing you.

Choose the month of your safari with
the weather in mind. During the dry season,
June to October, the wild animals
tend to stay near the river and the lush
vegetation along its banks. During the
rainy season, when it’s hot and humid, the
animals gravitate toward the escarpment.


Hippos and paddlers share the river in Lower Zambezi National Park.

347


ANIMAL ENCOUNTERS

Most of the canoe trips are on portions
of rivers that tend to be flat water. Where
you overnight can range from rough tent
camps alongside the river or on sandbars,
to luxury tent camps and lodges. Ask your
outfitter what kinds of accommodations
they offer.

Several safari companies offer tours on
the lower Zambezi River, which runs
through the Lower Zambezi National
Park in Zambia (www.zambiatourism.
com/travel/nationalparks/lowerzam.htm)
and the Mana Pools National Park in
Zimbabwe (www.zambezi.com/location/
mana_pools_national_park). Mana Pools,
a UNESCO World Heritage Site, encompasses
a portion of the Zambezi River as it
emerges from a gorge and spreads across
a floodplain. In the park there are large
pools that are remnants of ancient ox-bow

From a Distance 415
Whale-Watching
Dolphins, Porpoises & Whales, Oh My
Isle of Mull, Scotland
lake that the river carved out eons ago,
where hippos and crocs congregate.

The Zambezi Travel & Safari Company
(see below) offers a variety of canoeing
tours year-round, plus combination
canoe and walking safaris on the Zambezi
through Mana Pools. Many of the trips are
semi-participatory, although the guide
does the cooking and the washing up.
Chiawa (see below) offers canoeing safaris
in Zambia’s Lower Zambezi National Park
with overnights at luxury camps. —LF

Zambezi Travel & Safari Company
(& 44/1548-830059; www.zambezi.com).
Chiawa (& 260/211-261588; www.chiawa.
com).
WHEN TO GO: June–Oct.

Whale- watching will teach even the most
active adventurer about the virtue of
patience. During a typical cruise, you’ll
spend a good chunk of your time waiting
on the observation deck, scanning the
open seas. Be prepared to grab hold of a
railing if the waves get choppy, which they
tend to do on breezy days. As you keep
looking around and hoping to see a large
whale or majestic dolphin leap out of the
ocean, the anticipation mounts. When you
finally spot a fin, perhaps on a minke
whale, your heart skips a beat. As its vast
body finally comes arching out of the
water, followed by a powerful tail flapping
down with a giant splash, your adrenaline
starts pumping.

When it comes to seeing marine mammals
in their natural habitat, Scotland’s
west coast offers some of the best viewing
and greatest diversity in the world. Base

yourself in Tobermory on the Island of
Mull, which is part of an island chain called
the Hebrides in Argyll-Bute. From Glasgow,
Tobermory is about 4 hours by car and
ferry, and it’s well worth the ride. The area
is revered for its mountains, forests, and
beaches—on a coastline that stretches for
more than 483km (300 miles).

After you arrive in town, stop by the

Hebridean Whale and Dolphin Trust

(www.hwdt.org) on Main Street to get current
information about what’s been most
recently spotted at sea. According to the
organization, “Of the 83 species of whales,
dolphins and porpoises (cetaceans) currently
recognized in the world, 24 species
have been recorded in the waters off the
west coast of Scotland in recent years.”
Sightings often include harbour porpoises,
bottlenose dolphins, common dolphins,
Atlantic white-sided dolphins, white-beaked

348


SEAL ISLAND

dolphins, killer whales, minke whales,
humpback whales, and northern bottlenose
whales.

To improve your chances of seeing
these highly intelligent and communicative
creatures in the wild, look for
splashes—or waves that look like they’re
breaking the wrong way. Also keep an eye
out for extremely flat patches of water,
which could be a sign that a cetacean just
dived in there. Finally, pay attention to
feeding seabirds. If lots of them are diving
in one particular spot, it could mean that
fish have been rounded up to the surface
by a larger predator such as a minke
whale, making it easy for the birds to dive
in and enjoy a good meal. Meanwhile, you
should have plenty to feast your eyes on
as you scan the waters. —JS

From a Distance416
Seal Island
A Smorgasbord for Great White Sharks
South Africa
Scotland Tourism Organization, 94
Ocean Dr., Edinburgh (& 084/52-255121;
www.visitscotland.com). Welcome
to Scotland, Station Rd., Inverness-shire
(& 014/79-841-900; www.welcometo
scotland.com).
TOURS: Sea Life Surveys, Leoaig, Tobermory
(& 016/88-400-223; www.sealife
surveys.com). Silver Swift, Raraig House,
Raraeric Rd., Tobermory (& 016/88-302390;
www.tobermoryboatcharters.co.uk).

WHEN TO GO: Apr–Sept.
Glasgow Airport.
$$$ Glengorm Castle, Tobermory
(& 016/88-302-321; www.glengorm
castle.co.uk). $$ Failte Guest House,
Main St. (& 016/88-302-495; www.failte
guesthouse.com).


If you’ve ever tuned into Shark Week on
the Discovery Channel, chances are
you’ve already seen Seal Island. Sixty
thousand cape fur seals inhabit this rocky
outcrop near Cape Town, and that constant
supply of fresh red meat is a honey
pot for the ocean’s most fearsome predator—
great white sharks. Their spectacular
hunting behaviors, which involve those
aerial feats so often shown on sensationalist
nature programs, are not found in any
other white shark habitat in the world—
bad news for the seals of Seal Island.

The great whites that feed in False Bay,
which surrounds Seal Island, are especially
famous for their surface breaching:
The sharks launch their entire bodies out
of the water in order to snatch an unlucky
seal from the surface. Whales normally
leap all the way out of the water like this,
for reasons unrelated to killing prey, but

breaching takes on a whole new terrifying
dimension when it’s a menacing 2,000kg
shark doing the deed. Air Jaws became
the most successful shark show in history
when it introduced TV audiences to the
unique shark breaching off Seal Island.
What’s also striking is how close to shore
these shark-on-seal attacks take place—
almost within sight of Simonstown harbor
in some cases.

For those who care to witness this
extremely violent link of the food chain in
person, there are plenty of charter outfits
along False Bay, near Cape Town, that
operate boat excursions to Seal Island—
though the boats seem alarmingly small
and flimsy given the size and acrobatic
capabilities of the sharks touted in their
marketing materials. (If surface viewing is
all a bit too tame for you, very adventurous
types can also find outfitters that will

349


ANIMAL ENCOUNTERS

put you face to face, through a shark cage,
with carcharidon carcharias.)

Within a certain distance of Seal Island
in each direction, there’s a sweet spot
called the “Ring of Death” where the
sharks wait for unsavvy seals—usually,
the young, old, or infirm ones—to make a
mistake. If the seals cross the Ring of
Death near the murky bottom of the bay,
they’ll pass under the sharks unnoticed
and make it to the open sea safely. But if
they swim too near the surface, it’s only a
matter of time until a great white attacks,
and that’s almost always a fatal encounter.

Though you can get close enough to
hear and smell the teeming seal population
there, Seal Island itself cannot be visited—
and you probably wouldn’t want to,
anyway. The attraction here is undoubtedly
the wildlife interaction offshore, not
any sort of natural beauty onshore. The
rocks are thick with seal guano, and
there’s no soil or vegetation on the island,

From a Distance 417
Seeing Giant Condors
The Flight of the Condors
Colca Canyon, Peru
which reaches a maximum “elevation” of
just 6m (20 ft.). To lay eyes on Seal Island
from the water, it doesn’t look like land at
all, just a heaving mass of intertwined
seals that have survived another day
inside the Ring of Death. —SM

www.capetown.travel.
TOURS: African Shark Eco Charters,
Simonstown (& 27/21/785 1947; www.
ultimate-animals.com). Boat Company
Tours, Simonstown (& 27/83/257-7760;
www.boatcompany.co.za).


Cape Town (35km/22 miles).
Transport available via tour operator
(see below).
$$ Four Rosemead, 4 Rosmead Ave.
(& 27/21/480-3810; www.fourrosmead.
com). $$$ Mount Nelson, 76 Orange St.
(& 27/21/483-1000; www.mountnelson.
co.za).


“There’s one.” “There’s another.” And,
before your eyes are soaring some of the
rarest and most magnificent creatures on
Earth: Giant condors. The viewing area is
almost a mile above the Colca river running
through Colca Canyon in Peru, and
the canyon walls make a perfect backdrop
to the soaring birds.

Colca Canyon is one of the few places in
the world to provide such an up-close view
of the giant condors. You and the other
tourists in the area (fewer than 100), have
been sitting on the ledges 3,900m (13,000
ft.) above sea level, at the scenic Cruz del
Condor in the cool morning air waiting for
this moment. Then, as the sun warms the
air in the deep canyon and creates the
proper thermals, about two dozen giant

condors leave their nesting ledges on the
steep canyon wall below you, spread their
2.7m (9-ft.) wings, and soar like gliders.
You can spot the younger ones because
they are still brown, while the more
mature ones have developed white collars
and white wing markings. After 20 to 30
minutes, they soar off in search of food
and you sit there a bit awe-struck. Personally,
it was one of the most memorable
moments of my life.

Andean condors, the largest birds in
the Western Hemisphere, are rare, but
lucky travelers may see them circling overhead,
or flying off nests on mountainside
ledges in such places as Perum, Ecuador,
and Colombia. These birds are actually
vultures with a ruff of white feathers,

350


SEEING GIANT CONDORS


Giant condors soar overhead in Colca Canyon, Peru.

white patches on the wings, and a wing
span that can stretch up to 10 feet. The
San Diego Zoo sponsored a breeding program
based in Colombia and about 70
condors have been released in that country’s
highlands during the past 2 decades.
In the U.S., the California condors are
endangered. It’s estimated that about 350
are left; some are flying free while others
are in a breeding program.

Colca Canyon, located in southern
Peru, for years was called the world’s
deepest canyon. Based on recent measurements,
some surveys indicate it is
now ranks number two (many geologist
say that Cotahuasi Canyon in southwestern
Peru is deeper), but even so, it’s still
approximately twice as deep as the Grand
Canyon. With the exception of hotels built
for tourists, the area around the canyon is
predominantly primitive Peru. The pre-
Inca manmade terraces are farmed by
hand as they were 600 years ago. The villages
are much the same as they were in
the mid-1500s, when they were created
by the order of the Spanish Viceroy
Toledo. Most of the roads are unpaved
and it’s not unusual for your car to move at

the pace of the local woman driving her
cow and calf down the road.

Aside from viewing the giant condors,
Colca Canyon offers great trekking and it’s
possible to arrange rafting on the Colca
River. It’s also possible to take bike trips
along the narrow, rugged roads in the
canyon. Several hot springs along the river
are wonderful to soak in any time.

Once known as the Lost Valley of the
Incas, Colca Canyon is usually reached via
Arequipa, the second largest city in Peru.
Contrary to what might be implied in some
local literature, this is not a day trip and a
minimum of 2 or preferably 3 days is suggested.
A leisurely trip from Arequipa to
the Colca Valley took us almost 5 hours.
The road goes through Salinas y Aguada
Blanca National Reserve, where you
can usually view vicunas, and climb passes
that are in excess of 3.2km (2 miles) above
sea level. —LF

Peru Tourism Bureau (www.visit
peru.com).
TOUR: Dasatariq Tour Operators (& 511/
5134400; www.dasatariq.com).



ANIMAL ENCOUNTERS

WHEN TO GO: Apr–Nov (avoid the rainy www.colca-lodge.com.) $$$ Casitas del
season, Dec–Mar).Colca, Parque Curina s/n Yanque, Arequipa
(& 51/610-8300 or 51/54-959-672


Arequipa.


480; www.lascasitasdelcolca.com).

$ Colca Lodge, Fundo Puye-Yanque-
Caylloma, Colca Valley (& 51/54-531191;

From a Distance 418
Wildlife Viewing on Maria Island
Tasmania’s Secret Hideaway
Tasmania, Australia
For many travelers, going to Australia can
feel like traveling to the end of the earth—
but if you really want to explore the edge
of the world, consider this scenario. First,
you catch a plane or an overnight ferry
from Melbourne to Australia’s smallest
state, the sparsely populated island of
Tasmania, off the country’s southern
coast; then you catch another ferry that
carries you from Tasmania’s eastern
shoreline several miles out to sea, across a
strait known as the Mercury Passage, to a
little figure-eight-shaped island where the
only settlement is a ghost town. This is
where Tasmanians themselves go to get in
touch with nature.

This lovely and remote spot is Maria
Island—and if you’re planning to check it
out, be sure to stock up on supplies and
rented bikes ahead of time, because Maria
Island has no vehicular traffic, no shops,
no electricity, and no permanent residents
other than the few Tasmania Parks & Wildlife
Service employees who watch over the
hilly, 19km-long (12-mile) island and its
wildlife inhabitants.

During Australia’s summer holidays,
several hundred visitors a day take the
35-minute ferry ride to Darlington, the
abandoned city on Maria Island’s northern
tip. When they arrive, they’re greeted by a
recreational and historical wonderland.
Bike paths run the length and width of the
island, allowing those with the energy and
desire to sample the island’s diverse flora

and fauna in full (for a bike-route map, go
to the Parks & Wildlife Service website;
see below). The island’s native wombats
and Tasmanian pedamelons (both planteating
marsupials) were joined in the early
1970s by several species imported from
the Tasmanian mainland, including the
Eastern grey kangaroo, the red-necked
wallaby, and the Tasmanian devil.

Maria Island is also known for its bird
population—it’s one of the last refuges of
the endangered forty-spotted pardalote,
the Cape Barren goose, and the sea eagle.
Haunted Bay, on the island’s southern
end, is famous for its fairy penguins, whose
mournful calls gave the bay its name.

The national marine park that extends
for a kilometer off Maria Island’s coast is
a vibrant ecosystem of fish, seals (four
species), dolphins, and birds. The island
is on the whale migration route as well,
with Southern Right whales, pilot whales,
and humpback whales making regular
appearances.

The island is also rich in history, both
natural—within walking distance of Darlington
you’ll encounter both limestone
Fossil Cliffs and sandstone Painted
Cliffs, known for their stunning iron oxide
patterns—and human. The island has
gone through a number of settlement
phases, starting as a basic camp for whalers
and sealers in the early 1800s (the
stench of boiling whale blubber forced the
camp elsewhere) and then becoming a

352


WATCHING WILDLIFE COME TO LIFE

convict colony in the 1820s. During the
island’s industrial phase, work revolved
around a cement factory, and visitors
stayed at the truly grand Grand Hotel, a
French chalet–style structure complete
with dining and billiards rooms (it’s now
closed). It was built by an Italian entrepreneur
who hoped to develop Maria Island
as a tourist destination as well as a production
center for wine and silk. The
island’s romantic billing as the “Riviera of
Australia” never quite took hold, and by
the time of the Great Depression, islanders
had turned to farming and fishing. Maria
Island was designated a national park in
1972. —AF

From a Distance419
Watching Wildlife Come to Life
Arctic Circle Refuge
Wrangel Island, Russia
Tasmania Parks & Wildlife Service
(www.parks.tas.gov.au/index.aspx?base=
3495 and www.discovertasmania.com/us).
Hobart (2 hr. away).


Triabunna (90 min. from Hobart):
Maria Island Ferry & Eco Cruises (& 61/
04/1974 6668; www.mariaislandferry.
com.au; 35 min.).


Tasmania Parks & Wildlife Service
(& 61/03/6257 1420; www.parks.tas.gov.
au/index.aspx?base=3503).

Northwest of the Bering Strait, the arctic
winters are long, and I mean loooooong.
For 2 months, November 22 to January 22,
the sun never rises at all. A lonely landmass
in the Chuckchi Sea, Wrangel Island
lies shrouded in snow until June, an icy
wind moaning overhead.

And yet the sun returns every spring,
and when it does, it’s miraculous. Tens of
thousands of migratory birds—blacklegged
kittiwakes, pelagic cormorants,
glaucous gulls—arrive to nest on the jagged
cliffs. Ringed seals and bearded seals
dip their snouts through holes in the ice,
hungry for fish. Walruses lumber out onto
narrow spits to give birth. Female polar
bears emerge drowsily from their winter
dens, newborn cubs snuffling in their
wake. Arctic foxes scavenge the rocky
beaches, where snowy owls swoop down
on unsuspecting lemmings.

A few months later, in the summer, the
tundra teems with life. Rivers, swelled with
snowmelt, gush through the narrow val


leys, and the last remaining Russian population
of snow geese paddles around
glacial lakes in the island’s interior. Brilliantly
colored Arctic wildflowers mantle
the slopes in shades of pink and yellow.
Shaggy musk oxen browse sedges and
grasses of the ancient tundra, a relic of the
Ice Age. The walruses bask on ice floes
and rocky spits, going through their
annual breeding rituals. It’s a sight to
see—but very few travelers ever get the
chance.

Located 193km (120 miles) off the coast
of Siberia, right on the 180-degree line
that divides the Western and Eastern
hemispheres, Wrangel Island became designated
as a nature reserve (or zapovednik)
in 1976 to protect the delicate Arctic
ecosystem, in particular the snow geese
and polar bear, that were being hunted to
death. There are no lodgings on the
island—a small research base is the only
habitation—so the only way to visit is on a
ship (and an icebreaker at that), with

353


ANIMAL ENCOUNTERS

smaller craft for shore visits. Wrangel is
typically one stop on a Bering Strait voyage
that also includes the Kuril Islands and
Kamchatka. On your way through the
strait, you’ll also have a good chance of
sighting minke, gray, and even beluga
whales. These are long, expensive, summer-
only expeditions, and few companies

run them—if you see one offered (there
were two in July–Aug 2009), jump on it.

—HH

and TOUR: Polar Cruises (& 888/4842244
in the U.S., or 541/330-2454; www.
polarcruises.com).
From a Distance 420
Arctic National Wildlife Refuge
Eye to Eye with Polar Bears
Alaska, U.S.A.
The polar bear is standing quietly and
sniffing the air, looking mean, ruthless,
and directly at you! At almost eight feet
tall and weighing about 850 pounds, this
female polar bear is among the largest
land carnivores. (The males can weigh
more than 1,500 lbs.) This is a sight few
will ever see unless they’re in one of the
most remote reaches of the United States,
the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge.
One of the most pristine remaining locations
on Earth, the Arctic National Wildlife
Refuge is located above the Arctic Circle in
the northeastern corner of Alaska.

Fortunately or unfortunately, depending
upon your viewpoint, there is an area
of approximately 1.5 million acres within
the reserve that is believed to be rich in
oil. Whether there is enough oil for 2
years or 3 months consumption and
whether there should be drilling in this
section (called 1002) is an ongoing
debate. Part of the debate hinges around
the impact on the polar bear and caribou
populations. The area is an extremely
important locale for denning females who
birth their cubs here, and for the porcupine
caribou herds that summer on the
costal plains in 1002. Currently, permission
for drilling has been denied.

Because it is so remote, tourism is not
big in this wildlife refuge but guided trips
are available. Warbelows Air Ventures

provides flights from Fairbanks to the Village
of Katovik, an Inupiat village in the
reserve. The trips, which take place in
September and early October, include a
night in the village, guides, and a guarantee
you’ll see polar bears.

Other companies such as Alaskan
Alpine Treks and Alaska Discovery provide
1- to 2-week trips in June and early
July that include rafting and hiking around
the beautiful Brooks Range. The trip provides
the opportunity to see wolves, caribou,
moose, bears, arctic fox, Dall sheep,
and even muskoxen. If you go in the summer,
consider trying to time your trip to
catch the migration of the Porcupine caribou
herd, when the animals number in the
thousands. You’ll also experience perpetual
daylight, itself an extraordinary experience.
Your only concern will be dealing
with mosquitoes that some locals contend
are large enough to saddle and ride. The
trip is a photographer’s dream. If you like
fishing, Arctic char and grayling are waiting
for you.

You’ll be flying in a bush plane from
Fairbanks to reach the wildlife refuge.
Before you depart, take a few days to
enjoy this town. There are a number of
galleries offering good Eskimo art and lots
of opportunities to learn about native culture.
If you’re there in the winter and get
to see the Northern Lights, also known as

354


BEAR WATCHING

the Aurora Borealis (see ), you come
home with once-in-a-lifetime photos. Don’t
miss the University of Alaska Museum of
the North, where you can explore more
than 2,000 years of Alaskan art through
ancient and modern stone and bone
sculptures, paintings, and photographs.

—LF

U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service (& 907/
456-0250; www.arctic.fws.gov).
TOURS: Warbelows Air Venture Inc.
(& 800/478-0812; www.warbelows.com).
Alaska Discovery (& 800/586-1911;

From a Distance421
Bear Watching
Are We Having Salmon Tonight?
Katmai National Park, Alaska, U.S.A.
www.alaskadiscovery.com). Alaska
Alpine Treks (& 770/952-4549; www.
alaskanalpinetreks.com).

WHEN TO GO: Sept to early Oct for polar
bear viewing.
Fairbanks.


$$$ The Westmark Fairbanks
Hotel, 813 Noble St. (& 800/544-0970 or
907/456-7722; www.westmarkhotels.
com). $$ Minnie Street Bed & Breakfast
Inn, 345 Minnie St. (& 888/456-1849 or
907/456-1802; www.minniestreetbandb.
com).

The first time you see a Grizzly bear up
close your heart moves roughly 10 inches
north and lodges in your throat. These
things are huge! A male can weigh well
over 1,000 pounds. Get too close, and you
could be dinner. But keep your distance,
and in observing the bears roam and fish
in their natural habitat, you’ll have an
experience like no other.

One fabulous opportunity for viewing
takes place in Katmai National Park and
Preserve, on the Alaska Peninsula, just
across from Kodiak Island. The bears are
abundant here as are their readily available
food sources, making finding and watching
them a fairly easy challenge. Watching a
group of bears go after salmon can be
amusing and fascinating. Just as fishermen
may disagree as to the best fly, lure, or bait
to use, there is no universal bear fishing
procedure, and their different methods
often result in an entertaining array of
antics. Some go deep, some splash around,
and others sit and wait for the food to come
to them. You’ll find the bears fishing, arguing
and squabbling in many rivers in this

area, including the Naknek River and the
Brooks River, plus on many lakes.

There are three basic types of tours to
Katmai. Because there are no roads that
go there, all three options rely on a seaplane
for transport. The first type of trip is
a day trip beginning with a seaplane flight
from a town such as Homer. The flight
over glaciers, between mountain peaks,
and over the shoreline is almost as aweinspiring
as the bears. The plane lands on
a beach near the park and you walk in with
your guide to view the bears.

A multi-day trip option starts with a
seaplane trip to a small ship anchored offshore
in a quiet bay. Skiffs then take passengers
in for bear watching. The boat,
which serves as a floating lodge for visitors,
moves daily giving the passengers
the opportunity to view different bears in
a variety of areas. Meals are provided and
you’ll have the opportunity to learn from a
naturalist on board as well as share experiences
with other passengers.

Finally, travelers can stay within the
park at lodges and campgrounds (you get

355


ANIMAL ENCOUNTERS

Grizzlies fish for their dinner in Katmai National Park.
there by seaplane usually from King
Salmon) including Katmai Wilderness
Lodge and Brooks Camp Lodge. Many
guests have had wonderful lodge stays,
but keep in mind these are lodges and not
the Ritz. Guest experience often depends
on individual accommodations, so it’s recommended
that you request a written
confirmation of rates and specific rooms
or cabins, and early arrival.

How safe is bear watching? Guides
explain proper people behavior to their
guests. (No, you don’t send your 6-yearold
to stand next to a bear so you can take
a photo.) Although the bears are wild animals,
they are generally non-confrontational.
They have plenty of food and are
comfortable as long as they don’t perceive
you as a threat. Some may think that
invading a natural habitat is unethical
behavior. But creation of the remote park
and its bear watching programs has
resulted in many of these magnificent
bears winding up in photos on a wall
rather than as a rug on a floor.

In addition to the magnificent bears, the
park is home to a wide variety of birds,
including eagles and puffins, and other
animals including moose, red fox, beaver,
and seals. Katmai is one of the best sports
fishing grounds in the world and a great
place for canoeing and kayaking as well. A
trip to the Valley of 10,000 Smokes, site
of one of the most destructive volcanic

blasts in modern times, is a good day trip.
Homer is a great location for halibut fishing
charters. Contact Homer Ocean
Charters (& 800/426-6212; www.homer
ocean.com) or DeepStrike Sport Fishing
(& 866-535-6094; www.deepstrikeak.
com) for more information. You can even
arrange for your fillets to be flash frozen
and shipped to your home for scheduled
arrival. —LF

Katmai National Park (www.nps.gov/
katm); Coastal Bears of Katmai National
Park (www.katmaibears.com).
TOURS: K Bay Bear Viewing (day trip from
Homer; & 877-522-9247; www.katmai
alaskabearviewing.com). Katmai Costal
Bear Tours (live aboard; & 800-5328338;
www.katmaibears.com).

WHEN TO GO: June–Sept (Generally mating
is mid- to late July, and you’ll see cubs
in Aug when the large males leave.)


King Salmon and Homer with seaplane
to the Park.


$$$ Lands End Resort, 4786 Homer
Spit Rd., Homer (& 800/478-0400; www.
lands-end-resort.com). $$$$ Katmai Wilderness
Lodge (& 800/488-8767 or 907/
486-8767; www.katmai-wilderness.com).
$$$$ Brooks Camp Lodge (& 800/5440551
or 907/243-0649; www.katmailand.
com).


TRACKING WOLVES

From a Distance422
Tracking Wolves
Hearing Haunting Wolf Howls
Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming, U.S.A.
I couldn’t move the high-powered spotting
scope fast enough to track the two wolf
pups trotting to keep up with their mother.
They were in a wolf pack that was racing
across the frozen landscape, as if the
alpha male was following the scent of one
of the elk grazing in Yellowstone National
Park. Lined up on the roadside, everyone
in our group was grinning ear to ear,
thrilled that we got to see the pups playing
with each other before eerie sounding
howls from wolves hidden in the woods
triggered a mass exodus.

We had started the day before sunrise
at a lookout point in the Lamar Valley.
Steam from our coffee matched the mist in
the air, as the sun crept above the horizon
and lit up the hillsides. When the birds
started chirping, it was time to move on
and look for the wolves. At Yellowstone,
the wolf viewing tours start early in the
morning because this is often the best
time for sightings.

The wolves in Yellowstone were hunted
almost to extinction in the early 1900s but
are now protected and monitored. At the
end of 2008, there were at least 124
wolves in 12 packs living in the park,
according to the Forest Service. You can
go scouting for wolves yourself, but the
chances of actually seeing them are much
better during one of the guided wolf tours.
In addition to improving your chances of
actually seeing wolves, most tours are led
by naturalists who give insights into the
lives of wolves, other animals in the park
from elk to bison, and teach you about Yellowstone’s
ecology.

Several times a year, Wolf Discovery
and Wolf and Elk Discovery Lodging
and Learning programs are offered.
Guests stay at the Mammoth Hot Springs
lodge in the park and go out daily to see
wolves’ habitats and learn more about
their behavior and the Park’s conservation
efforts. The hikes or drives, depending
upon the season, are led by a Yellowstone
Institute naturalist.

People who desire a more intensive
introduction should take one of the Yellowstone
Organization’s field seminars
that offer a comprehensive overview of
wolf evolution, behavior, and communication.
Guests stay in cabins at Lamar Buffalo
Ranch (see below), while learning about
Yellowstone wolf restoration, how wolves
relate to prey species, scavengers, and
other animals. Participants go out in the
field to observe wolves and visit the carcass
of an animal killed by wolves. —LF

Yellowstone National Park (& 307/
344-7381; www.nps.gov/yell).
TOUR: Wolf Lodging and Learning programs
and Field Seminars at Yellowstone
Association Institute (& 307/344-2293;
www.yellowstoneassociation.org).

WHEN TO GO: Spring, fall, or winter.
Jackson Hole, WY (56 miles/90km), or
Bozeman, MT (87 miles/140km).
The lodging and learning programs
and the field seminars include lodging at
park properties.


357


ANIMAL ENCOUNTERS

Along for the Ride 423
Dog-Sledding in No-Man’s Land
Icy Nomad of the North Atlantic
Greenland
Among those ostensibly no-man’s-landmasses
that transatlantic flights pass over
between North America and Europe,
Greenland seems the most unlikely travel
destination in and of itself. Iceland, maybe.
But Greenland? It’s the world’s largest
island that isn’t a continent in its own right
(about a quarter of the size of Australia),
with a coastline as long as the equator.
The bulk of the island lies above the Arctic
Circle, and for all those terrific statistics
and surface area, only 57,000 people live
here, almost all of them Inuit, and concentrated
on the marginally hospitable west
coast. Eighty-one percent of Greenland is
covered by an ice sheet, and if it were to
melt, sea level worldwide would rise by
7m (23 ft.).

Greenland’s greatest natural attraction
is the Ilulissat Ice Fjord, a UNESCO World
Heritage Site on the west coast, where the
Sermeq Kujalleq glacier meets the sea in
often-spectacular fashion. Sermeq
Kujalleq is one of the fastest and most
active glaciers in the world, calving over
70 cubic km (17 cubic miles) of ice annually,
a rate that has sped up significantly in
the past decade due to climate change in
the Arctic. For now, however, Greenland is
still connected to the North Pole by ice,
which makes it—you guessed it—the
home island of Santa Claus. (Read more
at www.santa.gl.)

Besides the sublime quiet and majesty
of nature here, perhaps the most quintessential
Greenlandic experience is going for
a dog sled trip. In the east and north of
Greenland, some 29,000 sled dogs (one
for every two residents of the whole

island) are a vital, if pungent, form of transport
in the winter; dog sleds always have
the right of way. A number of tour outfitters,
including Greenland Holiday (see
below) also go on rip-roaring journeys
over the ice and snow. Greenland sled
dogs, which usually work in teams of 12 to
15 dogs per sled, are a unique breed
descended from wolves and cannot bark;
they howl instead.

Getting into the local way of life in
Greenland represents some challenges;
first and foremost of course are the harsh
territory and weather. Then there’s the
Inuit food: The national dish of Greenland
is boiled seal meat with rice and onions
(suaassat), while a local gourmet deli item
is mattak (raw whale skin with a thin layer
of blubber).

So why is it called “Greenland” when it’s
mostly covered by white? The etymology
of the island’s name is a matter of debate:
Some chalk it up to the Viking explorer Erik
the Red, who might have given it this
name as a sort of tongue-in-cheek way of
attracting settlers from Iceland. More
likely, Greenland is a corruption of Hronland,
which meant “Land of the Whales” in
ancient Norse. —SM

www.greenland.com.
TOUR: Greenland Explored (& 44/2921/
251515; www.greenlandholiday.com).
Kangerlussuaq, flights from Reykjavik,
Iceland, and Copenhagen, Denmark.
Where you stay will depend on where
your dog-sled tour takes you.

358


CAMEL TREKKING IN MONGOLIA

Along for the Ride424
Camel Trekking in Mongolia
One Hump or Two?
Mongolia
Genghis Khan had it all wrong. Thundering
across the steppes of Mongolia on horseback
makes for an impressive Hollywood
spectacle, but camel riding is traveling in
style. With their loping gait and comfortable,
furry humps, camels are to horses
what a new Lexus is to a hand-cranked
Model T. And camel trekking is the best
way to see the farthest, most isolated
reaches of Mongolia, a mysterious kingdom
that was closed to Westerners from
the 1920s until the fall of the Soviet Union.

Adventures to this landlocked nation
begin and end in Ulaanbaatar, the capital
and largest city. From there, you’ll be in
the capable hands of your tour guide, who
will introduce you to the nuances of worldfamous
Mongolian hospitality: No
stranger, according to tradition, can ever
be turned away, and charging for a meal
or a visit is unthinkable. Most camel treks

use a combination of trucks and camels to
get visitors around this dry, rugged land,
twice the size of Texas with a tiny fraction
of its population.

You’ll be traveling in the footsteps of
famed American archaeologist Roy Chapman
Andrews, allegedly the inspiration for
Indiana Jones, who uncovered a treasure
trove of prehistoric dinosaur fossils in the
arid sands around the Flaming Cliffs, one
of Mongolia’s most renowned attractions.
It’s not unusual for even casual hikers to
find fossilized remains of dinosaur eggs
and bones scattered on the ground. For a
thrill from more recent times, check out
the Bronze-age cave paintings at Mount
Ikh Bayan. In the heart of the Gobi Desert
lies Gobi Gurvan Saikhan National Park and
the famous Three Beauties, towering
peaks that mark the eastern edge of the
Altai Mountains.


When it comes to trekking Mongolia, camels are the beast of burden of choice.

359


ANIMAL ENCOUNTERS

Throughout your trip, you can expect to
stay in gers, round tentlike structures that
are similar to the yurts of Siberia. You may
fall asleep to the ethereal sounds of throat
singing, the Mongolian warbling that has
captured the imagination of music lovers
worldwide. And throughout it all you’ll be
surrounded by the serene beauty of the
Gobi Desert and the incomparable hospitality
of the Mongolian people. —ML

TOURS: Black Ibex Expeditions (& 976/
11-318-848; www.discovermongolia.mn).
Muir’s Tours (& 44/0118-950-2281;

Along for the Ride 425
Emperor Penguins Cruises
Hobnob with Royalty
Antarctica
www.nkf-mt.org.uk). Nomadic Expeditions
(& 800/998-6634 or 609/860-9008;
www.nomadicexpeditions.com).

WHEN TO GO: June or Sept.
Ulaanbaatar.
$$ Ulaanbaatar Hotel, 14, Sukhbaatar
Square, Ulaanbaatar (& 976/70-116-688;
www.ubhotel.mn). $$ Narantuul Hotel,
2 khoroo, Baruun Durvun zam, Ulaanbaatar
(& 976/11-330-565; www.narantuul
hotel.com).


Would you like to hobnob with royalty on a
cold-weather cruise to Antarctica? You
can on an Antarctic cruise to see the
emperor penguins on Snow Hill Island, a
snow-covered ice shelf in the ice-choked
waters of the Wendell Sea. During these
cruises, an icebreaker ship crosses the
Drake Passage to the Weddell Sea and
stops near Snow Island, close to the tip of
the Antarctic Peninsula. Weather permitting,
you’ll take helicopter flights from the
ship to a rookery for a few days. There,
you’ll watch the adult penguins, the deepest
diving birds on the planet, caring for
their young chicks. To observe this amazing
cycle of life in this other-worldly place
is an unparalleled experience.

The first sound you’ll hear upon reaching
the rookery is the shrill whistling of
chicks begging their parents for food.
Eventually, you’ll see hundreds of penguins
milling about on the snow. The
adults look regal, dressed in tuxedos.
Tucked amongst them are the small
chicks, with their fuzzy white fur. At times,
adults toboggan their bodies across the

snow and slide into the open water to find
food for their young.

The cruises to Snow Island are usually
only once or twice a year in the fall, when
the Emperor penguin chicks are young
and the adults still very protective. The
largest of all penguins, the emperor penguins
live and breed on the fast ice in the
coldest climate on earth. After a female
lays an egg she gives it to the male, who
keeps it warm through the winter (often by
huddling together with other males). The
female then heads out to the open sea to
feed. She returns in time for the young to
hatch and cares for them while the males
trek to the open ocean in search of food.
When the males return, together the
adults care for the chicks until they are old
enough—about 6 months—to enter the
open sea on their own.

After departing Snow Hill Island, you’ll
sail down Iceberg Alley, past the translucent
icebergs, and visit rookeries of Chinstrap
and Gentoo penguins just arriving
to breed and raise their young during
the austral summer. Passage for most

360


KAYAKING WITH ORCAS

outfitters is on the Khlebnikov, a Russian
icebreaker that was retrofitted as a cruise
ship in the early 1990s and in 1997 was the
first ship to navigate the Antarctic with passengers.
With its 45mm-thick icebreaker
hull, it can ram through ice-locked surfaces
opening up watery passages. The Khlebnikov
has 56 cabins (space is limited for
these cruises), with comfortable but not
luxurious accommodations aboard. During
the expeditions naturalists and lecturers
are on hand to educate you on the emperor
and other penguins in rookeries around the
Antarctic, in addition to offering much

Along for the Ride426
Kayaking with Orcas
Killer Whales All Around
Inside Passage, BC, Canada
more information about the White Continent
itself. —LF

TOURS: Quark Expeditions (& 866/9612961
or 203/803-2888; www.quark
expeditions.com). Travel Wild Expeditions
(& 800/368-0077 or 206-463-5362;
www.travelwild.com). Polar Cruises
& 888/484-2244 or 541/330-2454; www.
polarcruises.com).

WHEN TO GO: Fall. Only one or two
cruises are offered per year.
Ushuaia, Argentina.


You’re sitting in camp with a cup of coffee
watching the fog burn off the water, your
mind in a peaceful state of repose. Someone
yells, “Orcas!” It is amazing how fast a
dozen people can shift to high gear, stop
what they are doing, get into their sea
kayaks, and start paddling. Their singleminded
goal is to be in the vicinity of the
Orcas as they breach, spyhop, blow, or
cruise by. What a rush to be inches from
the surface and see half a dozen black fins
cutting through the water and listen to
their conversation over the hydrophone
that’s been lowered into the water by a
guide. You will not be able to go to sleep
without turning the pages of your mental
scrapbook filled with Orca photographs.

The killer whales (actually members of
the dolphin family) are also called blackfish
or sea wolves. They stay together in a
matrilineal group of varying size. They
probably got their nickname because
many of them eat seals, minke whales, sea
lions, and walruses, and they hunt in packs
like wolves. The Orcas in this area are here
to feed, mostly on the salmon.

The Inside Passage runs between the
eastern side of Vancouver Island and
mainland British Columbia. The protected
waters of such sections as Johnstone
Strait are ideal for sea kayaking and with a
little instruction beginners are soon moving
easily through the water. The kayak
vacations are camping trips that generally
last between 4 and 7 days. You’ll pack
your gear in waterproof bags and carry it
with you. Depending upon the outfitter,
you’ll either paddle to your initial campsite
or be ferried by a motorboat. Your guides
will assist you and provide your meals, but
they are not your Sherpas and you’ll be
expected to pitch in as if you were camping
with a group of friends. Much of your
time will be spent on the water, and in
addition to the Orcas you’ll have chances
to see a large variety of wildlife including
bears, sea lions, dolphins, bald eagles,
otters, and salmon. With luck, you’ll even
see a humpback whale. You’ll also do
some hiking and be able to totally chill
until you are incredibly relaxed.

For a change of scenery after chasing
Orcas for a few days, be sure to visit

361


ANIMAL ENCOUNTERS

Vancouver Island. It’s almost 483km (300
miles) long and 81km (50 miles) wide, so it
takes several days to explore. The west
coast is more rugged than the east coast,
with its Golden Hinde Mountain (named
after Sir Frances Drake’s ship) that tops
out above 2,100m (7,000 ft.). The waves
crashing on the shore at Tofino are enough
in themselves to attract visitors. Most of
the towns are small and fun to visit. —LF

Tourism British Columbia (& 800/
435-5622; www.hellobc.com).
TOURS: Northern Lights Expeditions
(& 800/754-7402 or 360/734-6334; www.
seakayaking.com). Out For Adventure

Along for the Ride 427
Ostrich Racing
Winner by a Neck
Oudtshoorn, South Africa
Tours, 685 Heriot Bay Rd. (& 866-3445292
or 250/285-3600; www.outfor
adventure.com).

WHEN TO GO: June to mid-Sept.
Port Hardy Airport (general aviation)
or Victoria International Airport.
$ Haida-Way Inn, 1817 Campbell
Way, Port McNeill. (& 800/956-3373 or
250/956-3373; www.pmhotels.com).
$$ Hidden Cove Lodge, Port McNeill/
Telegraph Cove (& 250/956-3916; www.
bcbbonly.com/1263.php).


Ostriches aren’t nice. They have an ornery
attitude, a mean peck, and their claws are
sharp enough to rip open a lion’s face.
They aren’t pretty, and they don’t like to
cuddle, either, so they rarely elicit the
“ooohs” that greet many African animals.
What, then, is an enterprising adventurer
to do when encountering one of these
300-pound, nine-feet-tall birds? Why, jump
on their backs and race them, of course.

Ostrich riding and racing is the unofficial
town sport of Oudtshoorn, a small
hamlet in the Little Karoo region of South
Africa located a few hours’ drive northeast
of Cape Town, where most flights into this
region will land. There are a number of
ostrich farms in the area, and many sponsor
organized ostrich encounters, where
visitors can learn about these flightless
birds’ natural history before commencing
the racing. By most accounts, ostriches
don’t take kindly to having someone sitting
on their backs, so they run as fast as
possible in hopes of getting rid of you.

There are a few ground rules you’ll need
to know before you hop on an ostrich. Riders
must weigh less than 80kg (176 lb.), and
will need to be strong enough to be able to
hang onto the moving animal by holding its
wings and steering by grabbing its neck—
no easy task when you’re loping along at
32km (20 miles) per hour. (Grace is not one
of the features of this sport.) An ostrich
race is an impromptu affair, and depends
on the number of willing volunteers in your
party, though there are ostrich derbies
organized by civic clubs throughout South
Africa.

The semi-arid region of Little Karoo is
ideal for raising ostriches, and the town of
Oudtshoorn was once the undisputed
heart of the world’s ostrich plume trade;
the town’s rows of “feather palaces,”
homes of multi-millionaire ostrich farmers,
attest to its former glory as the center of
this international trade. Ostriches have
staged an impressive comeback since
their 19th century heyday, having less to

362


CAMEL RACING

do with their plumage than with their
eggs—one of which will feed 20 men—and
their meat, a low-fat alternative to beef that
is darker and tastier than chicken. Their
leather, too, is soft and durable and is used
for fashion accessories such as boots and
wallets. All these items and more can be
found in the retail shops of the Ostrich
Capital of the World. —ML

TOURS: Pathfinders (& 04/702-814;
www.pathfindersafrica.com). African
Overland (& 021/853-7952; www.
africanoverland.co.za).

WHEN TO GO: Year-round.

Along for the Ride428
Camel Racing
Loose Camel
Alice Springs, Australia
Oudtdshoorn or Cape Town (418km/
260 miles).
In Cape Town: $$$ Kensington
Place, 38 Kensington Crescent, Cape
Town (& 021/424-4744; www.kensington
place.co.za). $$ De Waterkant Village,
1 Loader St, Cape Town (& 021/4092500;
www.dewaterkant.com). In Oudtshorrn:
$ Rosenhof Country House, 264
Baron van Reede St. (& 27/44/272-2232;
www.rosenhof.co.za). $$ Retreat Groenfontein,
follow signs from R62 btw. Oudtshoorn
and Calitzdorp (&27/44/213-3880;
www.groenfontein.com).

When it comes to speed in the animal
world one naturally thinks of sleek race
horses or majestic leopards. You never
think of a 2m (7-ft.) gangly creature with
knobby knees, old teddy bear fur, and a
rather large hump on its back. It’s hard to
believe that the towering awkwardness of
the desert camel can, with a little encouragement,
turn into an 1,800-pound bullet
traveling at 64kmph (40 mph) through
dust and mayhem with a human clinging
to its hump like a surrogate foal. This is
exactly what happens in Alice Springs,
Australia every July, where the “ships of
the desert” transform themselves into
“speedboats of the Outback.”

The Camel Cup originally began with
two bored Australians in the 1970s racing
their dromedaries along the dry river bank
that cuts through this legendary town in
the dead red center of the Australian outback.
The race has since morphed into a
serious 400m (1,312-ft.) race around an
oval track at a venue known as Blatherskite
Park. The event is organized by the

Lion’s Club and has limited numbers of
rider places. Camels are privately owned
and usually used to ferry tourists around
the rest of the year. Four thousand spectators
turn up to cheer and jeer, including
the Afghan ambassador, resplendent in
robe and fez and looking almost as incongruous
as the four-legged, long-necked
bulls amidst the festival atmosphere of
suntanned Australians intent on having a
good time.

Camels are not usually associated with
the land down under. Yet Australia has a
sizeable herd of even-toed ungulates as
they were once the main mode of transport
to get around this desolate spot and were
introduced by the British from their ex-colony
in Pakistan. They have thrived so much
there is now talk of an annual culling to
keep their numbers down. Usually used to
lumber tourists around the nearby McDonnell
ranges or through Finke Gorge National
Park, the camels have their moment of
glory every second Saturday in July when
they show their real mettle and ungulate

363


ANIMAL ENCOUNTERS

for real. So famed is the Camel Cup, a
statue of the beast of burden greets passengers
off the train from Adelaide or Darwin
after the 1,500km (930-mile) journey.

Alice Springs is a small modern town of
26,000 people. Known as Mparntwe
amongst the local aborigines, it has
become a center of indigenous art with
galleries such as those situated in the
Todd Mall retracing the area’s 50,000-year
history and reliving the aborigine legends
that the dry red dirt was carved by caterpillars
and wild dogs. Less poetic were the
shepherds, gold miners, and telegraph
workers who soon turned the settlement
into a sizeable collection of Australians
with English, Irish, and Scottish roots.
They turn out in force to watch the race
with comical sideshows, busy food stalls,
and busier beer tents keeping the crowds
occupied between races. The races themselves
often get off to a discouraging start.
All the animals must be lined up and

seated before the race sets off. Often the
camels have different ideas, facing the
wrong way, refusing to sit, and then refusing
to move. Many dart off with the jockey
clinging for his or her life as they round the
dusty bends at breakneck speeds. The riders
often lose their grip and fall with the
camel sprinting off into the distance,
prompting the legendary cries from the
stands: “Loose camel!” —CO’M

Camel Cup (& 61/8/8952-6796; www.
camelcup.com.au).
WHEN TO GO: Second Sat in July.
Alice Springs.


$$$ Bond Springs Outback
Retreat, North Stuart Hwy. (& 61/8/
8952-9888; www.outbackretreat.com).
$$ Comfort Inn Alice Springs, 46 Stephens
Rd. (& 61/8/8952-6100; www.
comfortinn.com).

10 Offbeat Adventures 10 Offbeat Adventures

OFFBEAT ADVENTURES

429
The Gloucestershire Cheese Rolling Race
The Cheese Chasers
Brockworth, Gloucestershire, England
You’d think rolling a piece of cheese down
a hill and chasing after it would be a piece
of cake, or cheese for that matter. This is
what the locals have been doing in the
south western English county of Gloucestershire
since medieval times, or since
Roman times as some will tell you. Yet
when you see Cooper’s hill and its ridiculously
steep incline, you realize that this
annual event is not the walk in the park it
seems. The spectacle of 20 adults bouncing
and tumbling down a precipitous field
of long, wet grass after a hurtling roll of
hard cheese is enough to crack your ribs,
and their ankles. Competitors cartwheel
and flop like rag dolls as they pursue the
elusive cheddar. Ambulances line up at
the bottom to conveniently ferry the
injured off to a nearby hospital. Back injuries
are not uncommon and all the runners
suffer some sort of bloody graze or
twisted ligament. The 2009 winner was
taken away smiling on a stretcher clutching
his 3.6kg (8 lb.) prize of solid curd to his
chest. Health and Safety concerns have
closed down the event three times in the
past decade, and there is a special search
and rescue team on standby for those
who do not naturally roll to the bottom. As
if this was not enough of a headache for
organizers, who have the Orwellian title of
“the Cheese Roll Committee,” local vegan
groups are calling the race unethical and
demanding that the cheese should be
replaced by a non-dairy alternative.

Four thousand spectators turn up to a
race that is now beamed across the world
and in recent years was viewed live in
Brazil. There are actually five races in total,

one of which is for women only. They take
place at midday in the green rolling hills of
Brockworth, an hour west of London, in an
area more famous for its nature trails
through the Cotswolds or the traditional
horse racing meeting in nearby Cheltenham.
Once a year, on the May bank holiday
Monday, cozy English country pubs in
the area such as The Cheese Rollers pack
with locals before and after the race, plotting
tactics, gaining some Dutch courage,
and afterward watching video highlights
and nursing their wounds.

The race’s origins are a complete mystery
with written records going back only
200 years. Many claim it has pagan origins,
that it is a fertility rite, or a spring
celebration. Some say that it was introduced
to anticipate a good harvest or initiate
new age healing. Such theories are not
hard to believe in an area that has a magical
heritage and has served as the backdrop
to many a Harry Potter movie. The
truth however is probably something very
simple. Somebody just realized that chasing
a roll of cheese down a hill is very good
fun. —CO’M

www.cheese-rolling.co.uk.
WHEN TO GO: Last Mon in May.
Bristol (63km/39 miles).


$$$ Plush Hotel, Bristol Airport, Redhill,
North Somerset, Bristol (& 44/1934862410;
www.bristol-airport-hotelsplush-
hotel.com). $$ Hotel 24/7, 15
Acramans Rd., Bristol (& 44/7711626662;
www.hotel24seven.com).
Previous page: Exercise your inner 6-year-old boy at Dig This.

366


THE TOMATO FOOD FIGHT

430
The Tomato Food Fight
Pulp Friction
Bunol, Spain
Imagine tomato goo running down your
face, tomato seed creeping up your nose,
and tomato pulp lacquering down your
hair. This is exactly what will happen to
you if you find yourself in a little village
called Bunol in eastern Spain on the last
Wednesday of August. You have just
walked into the infamous La Tomatina.

The biggest food fight in the world starts
with competitors scrambling up a greasy
pole to dislodge a smoked leg of ham which
is skewered at the top. After this feat of
athleticism has been achieved old trucks
trundle up the cobbled streets and dump
136,078kg (300,000 lb.) of over-ripe tomatoes
onto a crowd of 40,000 tomato-pelting
revelers. And so the fight ensues as skimpily
clad women and bare-chested men hurl
squashed tomatoes in any and every direction
in what is a large communal effort at
making a very large Bloody Mary. The red
juices run down their arms and legs and
stain the streets. For an hour there’s a haze
of slush, sludge, slime, slop, and swill.
Finally, a water gun fires to signal the end of
the festivities. The bedraggled fighters are
left to stagger to the riverside where makeshift
showers are set up to wash away the
fresh ketchup and the authorities begin to
hose down the streets of this little town as
if nothing remarkable had come to pass.

Unlike many festivals in Europe, La Tomatina
has absolutely no historical significance
and has nothing to do with the fact that the
tomato, a universally popular item on every
menu, is a South American fruit that was first
introduced to Europe by a Spaniard in the
15th century. The festival’s origins only
began in 1945 during a small carnival in this
town 48km (30 miles) west of Valencia on
the Mediterranean coast. Some rowdy audience
members made use of a nearby grocer’s
cart to pelt a poorly performing comic.
The next year, students from Valencia

decided to reenact the event, but the police
quickly broke it up. The seed was sown, so to
speak, and every year the locals chose to
finish the carnival with an ever growing vegetable
showdown. Gradually it became an
annual event, with the authorities eventually
giving in and recognizing it in 1959. It has
since become an international event with
people flocking from all over the world to
take part in the pelting and pulping.

For Bunol it is a big event (well, probably
the only event) in village life. The week
building up to the party is full of eating,
drinking, and dancing with parades and
fireworks adding to the general excitement.
A giant paella cooking contest is held
as Valencia is also the home of this famous
simmering rice dish. Giant cauldrons bubble
along the town’s streets dominated by
a medieval clock tower. Valencia itself has
some fascinating architecture with a
famous 14th-century gothic mansion called
Llota de la Seda and a brand spanking new
sci-fi riverside complex known as the City of
Arts and Sciences. The port city is also
famous for its vibrant nightlife and excellent
restaurant scene. However, for 1 day of the
year the focus shifts to the tiny village west.
Young and old, fit and flabby gather in the
main square of Bunol to throw over 150,000
ripe tomatoes at each other in a type of
Ragu rave that is televised live around the
country. —CO’M

www.tomatina.es.
WHEN TO GO: Last Wed in Aug.
Valencia (48km/30 miles).
$$$ Hotel Las Arenas Balneario
Resort, Eugenia Vines 22–24, Valencia
(www.valencialasarenashotel.com).
$$ Sorolla Palace, Avda Cortes Valencianas
58, Valencia (& 34/961/868-700;
www.hotelsorollapalace.com).

367


OFFBEAT ADVENTURES

431
Panning for Gold in Australia
The Genuine Article
Sovereign Hills, Ballarat, Victoria, Australia
There is nothing like a nugget of gold to get
the heart racing. Especially if you have just
fished it out of a muddy stream that offers
more such nuggets and there is a bank up
the road that will exchange it for hard cash.
If greed gets the better of you there’s an
underground mine nearby that has surrendered
pure gold boulders the size of adolescents.
Then you can drop into the local
foundry and watch $50,000 worth of molten
gold poured into a bullion bar. Sovereign
Hills offers this and much more.

To walk around this genuine 19th-century
mining town 115km (71 miles) west of
the state capital Melbourne is like waking
up and finding yourself in an episode of
Deadwood. Costumed locals go about
their business in 19th-century garb and
atop horse carriages. Stores and workshops
line the thoroughfare with a blacksmith
hammering out horseshoes and a
candle maker displaying his waxy goods.
Aproned grocers operate Wild West versions
of a 7-11 convenience store and
jewellers sell everything from the genuine
article (you guessed it—gold) to tourist
trinkets. There’s a tavern bar that offers
old time bowling and a museum displaying
rocks and coins from the era. You can take
a stage coach tour of the surroundings
and in the mine you can see a replica of
the second biggest nugget in the world, a
69kg (152-lb.) monster known as “the Welcome
Nugget.” If it all gets too much you
can lie down in the local hotel and literally
sleep on a goldmine.

It was gold that made the south eastern
state of Victoria. The early convict settlers
at the turn of the 19th century were literally
tripping across the stuff in what must
have been a supreme and bitter irony as
they discovered their open jail was literally

paved with gold. The real rush began in
1851 and it saw the biggest migration of
fortune seekers in modern times. The population
increased by half a million over 10
years as Scots, Irish, Cornish, and Chinese
all got wind that there was something in
those hills and it shines. Soon the region
produced 20 million ounces of gold, one
third of the global output. Melbourne took
off as a centre of trade and commerce and
Australia in general began to stand on its
own two feet. The mines are also credited
with establishing the country as an independent
political entity. An uprising by
disgruntled miners in 1854 known as the
Eureka Rebellion was brutally repressed
by the British colonialists but it lead the
way to a fairer system of civil rights and
one man one vote.

On the river it is one man and his pan as
lines of visitors fish for some glinting rock.
Children especially love Sovereign Hills
and history buffs are in their element.
It just so happens that element is gold.
—CO’M

www.sovereignhill.com.au.
TOURS: Melbourne Hosted Tours
(& 61/3/9755-6085; www.melbourne
hostedtours.com). Melbourne’s Best
Day Tours (& 61/3/9397-4911; www.
melbournetours.com).

WHEN TO GO: Year-round.
Melbourne (115km/71 miles).
$$$ Crown Promenade Hotel, 8
Whiteman St., Southbank, Melbourne
(& 61/3/9292-6688; www.crown
promenade.com.au). $$ Alto Hotel on
Bourke, 636 Bourke St., Melbourne
(& 61/3/8608-5500; www.altohotel.com.
au).


368


THE HARO WINE BATTLE

432
The Haro Wine Battle
Wine Not War
Haro, La Rioja, Spain
Try not to arrive in La Rioja’s medieval
capital Haro on June 29. On that day, as
soon as you step on the street complete
strangers will douse you in buckets of
wine and cackle with glee. You have inadvertently
walked into the town’s famous
Wine Battle, an annual orgy of wine throwing
that would make Bacchus run for
cover. Thousands gather on the city’s
streets armed with buckets, basins, dustbins,
giant water pistols, and even backmounted
crop sprayers with the intention
of drowning each other in wine. They
apparently go through 49,210 liters
(13,000 gal.) every year. Everybody is
dressed in white but they don’t stay that
way for long. Soon the teeming, screaming
mass is covered head to toe in purple,
with sticky hair and stinging eyes. More
savvy veterans cover their cars seats with
plastic, their cameras with plastic wrap
and some even wear goggles. All the
antics are accompanied by brass bands
and tractor drawn floats and culminate in
a night fiesta on the town plaza with fireworks
and more wine ducking.

Haro is 100km (62 miles) south of Bilbao
and the center of the country’s wine making
tradition. La Rioja is Spain’s most prodigious
wine region with many historical
and prestigious wineries surrounding
Haro. Such was the region’s wine making
importance; some of the wineries even
had their own train platforms to dispatch
wine to all corners of the country and farther
afield to the Spanish Empire. La Rioja’s
wineries are famous for aging rich and
fruity wines that are literally a shame to
throw away. The historical city of Bilbao is

farther to the north on the Atlantic coast.
It is the capital of the Basque region and
home to the famous futuristic Guggenheim
Museum designed by Frank Gehry.

The Haro wine battle is becoming just
as famous, with people coming from all
over Europe for this annual wine wipe-out.
Its origins date back to a 10th century land
dispute between Haro and a neighboring
town called Miranda De Ebro over a mountain
called Montes Obarenes. Every June
29 (St. Peter’s Day), the Mayor of Haro
ceremoniously passes through the town
on horseback and then up the mountain to
a small chapel. Everyone follows him on
the 6.4km (4-mile) route, many of them
holding some kind of receptacle with wine
in it. After mass, the entire congregation
solemnly bless themselves and then rush
outside to begin a fervent purple hued
battle in what is a reenactment of the
medieval confrontation except the only
thing that is spilled is wine. The melee
eventually moves back down the hillside
to the city bullring, where the festivities
continue. If only all wars could be solved
this way. —CO’M

Haro region (www.haro.org). Website
is Spanish only.
WHEN TO GO: June 29.
Logrono (60km/37 miles).


$$ Casa de Legarda, Brinas (& 34/
941/312-134; www.casadelegarda.com).
$$ El Hotel Rural Villa de Abalos, Plaza
Fermin Gurbindo, No. 2, Abalos (& 34/
941/334-302; www.hotelvilladeabalos.
com).
369


OFFBEAT ADVENTURES

433
Air Guitar World Championship
The Riff Raffers
Oulu, Finland
The rock star struts across the stage, flicking
back his long hair and pouting to the cheering
audience. A roadie runs up to him and
gingerly hands him a guitar. The rock star
straps it on and gives a poised stroke of the
wrist. He strums into a song while a group of
adoring groupies screams from the sidelines.
As the tempo rises his fingers become
a blur on the fret board and his facial expressions
vary from fury to exhilaration to complete
concentration, punctuated by the
occasional pelvic thrust and consummated
by a dramatic high arm salute as he ends his
epic 1-minute solo. By now the crowd has
worked itself into a frenzy and one of the
groupies has fainted. This could be any rock
concert, except it is not. There is no guitar
and this is no rock star.

The Air Guitar World Championship
started as a joke in 1996, a frivolous sideshow
to a music festival in the northern
town of Oulu in Finland. Organizers did not
realize however that they had accidentally
struck a chord, so to speak, with every
rock fan’s fantasy to play like Hendrix.
Soon the joke became the main event and
now national air guitar champions from 17
countries gather at this Baltic sea port 500
miles north of Helsinki to pick, twang, lip
synch, and gyrate. They smash imaginary
guitars and burn pretend Fenders in reenactments
of every famous rock moment
imaginable. These would-be rock gods
“surrender to the music” as the American
Champion Hott Lixx Hulahan proved one


Virtual shredding at the Air Guitar World Championship.

370


BABY JUMPING FESTIVAL

year by breaking his thumb and heroically
carrying on. He obviously did not want to
disappoint his fans.

As can be expected in a Scandinavian
country, the silliness has a serious side
and rules are strict. Under no circumstance
must contestants play another
imaginary instrument, such as drums or
piano. Other band members are not
allowed on stage but roadies and groupies
are permitted as kind of props to enhance
that all important rock star allure. Each
rock fantasist must play two 1-minute
rounds. The first a tune of their own
choosing and the second a last-minute
request by the four-person jury to test the
air guitarist’s skill in improvisation. A sixpoint
score system much like figure ice
skating is used to sort the wheat from the
chaff. There are three criteria. Technical
merit takes into account how close to the
real deal the performer is simulating. They
watch his or her fingers for fretwork,
chord playing, and technical moves. The
second criteria are stage presence. Does
the participant have the aura of a rock star
or should he return to playing solo in front
of his bedroom mirror? Is there rock star

434
Baby Jumping Festival
Jump, Jump, Baby
Castrillo de Murcia, Spain
charisma in those moves or has stage
fright made him forget his notes? And
finally there is what they call “airness”—
the overall artfulness of the contestant.
Does this performance move beyond
mere simulation and into an intangible
realm of epic head banging greatness?

Participation is free and winners walk
away with that rare thing, a real guitar
which is actually a local handmade instrument
called a Flying Finn. However, to
reach the championships you must pass
the regional heats that take place in an
ever increasing number of countries. Look
out for the poster. Air Guitar is coming to a
town near you. —CO’M

www.airguitarworldchampionships.com.
WHEN TO GO: Aug. Check website for
exact dates.
Oulu.
$$ Scandic Oulu, Saaristonkatu
490100 Oulu (& 358/8/543-1000; www.
scandichotels.com). $$ Holiday Inn
Oulu, Kirkkokatu 3 90100 Oulu (& 358/
8/883-9111; www.restel.fi).

Six toddlers lie swaddled on a mattress in
the open air. Another cluster of babies lie
wrapped in blankets a few feet away while
a little farther down the village street there
are more infants looking up at the sky
while eyed by a crowd of serious looking
spectators who occasionally step forward
to tuck in a child and stop him or her from
rolling over onto the hard pavement. Two
men emerge from the church in front.
They look like court jesters, dressed as
they are in medieval outfits of yellow and
orange. They run down the steps and

across the small plaza not slowing down
as they approach the baby obstacles.
Instead they gather speed and leap across
the oblivious infants and repeat the jump
over each mattress laid before them, turning
to jump the mattresses again while the
crowd sings and church bells ring out.

Welcome to the infamous baby jumping
festival in Northern Spain where Catholic
child abuse gets a whole new meaning. It
is the culmination of 4 days of self-imposed
exorcism, when the town of Castrillo de
Murcia near Burgos spills out onto its

371


OFFBEAT ADVENTURES

narrow streets and takes on the devil in all
his forms. The yellow suited men are
known as colachos and they spend the
weekend terrorizing the locals with whips
and sticks. They run through the crowded
streets, dispersing jeering groups of
onlookers and chasing bystanders. A sinister
group of men in dark capes and top
hats look on in the distance, banging a
huge drum. These are the atabaleros,
another form of the devil that must be
banished from the town by the following
Sunday. El Fiesta del Colacho takes place
during the boisterous Corpus Christi celebrations
that engulf the entire country
with parades and singing. It happens 60
days after Easter and is a celebration of
the Catholic Eucharist when the body of
Christ becomes bread and wine.

Officially the Catholic church frowns
upon grown men jumping over vulnerable
infants on public thoroughfares. However,
the locals are fanatical followers of a

435
Dig This
Play in an Adult Sandbox
Steamboat, Colorado, U.S.A.
tradition that goes back centuries. On the
final Sunday, the devils are banished to the
church and every child born the preceding
year is laid out on the mattresses in the
streets in front. El Colacho is unmasked
within the church and forced to flee into
the small plaza where he long jumps the
short people. This Lucifer leaping of the
babies is regarded as a symbolic act that
purges all evil and reputedly brings good
luck to the children who seem to emerge
unperturbed. —CO’M

WHEN TO GO: Late May/June.
Burgos (44km/27 miles).
$$ NH Palacio de la Merced, Calle
de la Merced 13, Burgos (& 34/94/7479900;
www.nh-hotels.com). $$ Hotel
Silken Gran Teatro, Avda de Arlanzon
8-b, Burgos (& 34/947/253-900; www.
hoteles-silken.com).


Did you play in a sandbox when you were
a kid? At Dig This, you’ll get to play in an
adult sandbox, the nation’s first and only
recreational heavy equipment, dirt-moving
compound. Feel the adrenaline rush as
you take control of a Caterpillar 315 CL
hydraulic excavator and start moving oneton
rocks around with subtle hand movements
on the machine’s gears. Want to dig
ditches or build a rock pile? It’s easy to do,
even if you are a 120-pound (54kg) female.
Just learn how the gears work and start
carrying massive rocks around your playground.
If you’d rather build a road or a
runway to land a plane, which guys seem
to like best, just choose to play with a D5G
track-type dozer. The fellas start grinning
from the moment they get in a bulldozer

and begin building their own road to
nowhere. Afterward, they shoot photos to
their friends, who jealously e-mail back,
“Wish I could do it.” You can!

Before you’re allowed to handle the real
equipment, there’s an introductory session,
during which Dig This’s New Zealander
owner, Ed Mumm, or one of his
staff, tells you about the machines and
demonstrates how they work in a miniature
sandbox. Then, a staffer sets you up
in your machine of choice, demonstrates
how the gears work, and goes over the
safety procedures. Finally, it’s your turn.
You operate the machine cautiously at
first, perhaps dropping a five-foot-wide
boulder you’re lifting while digging a ditch.
But, after awhile, the feeling of pure power

372


FROZEN DEAD GUY DAYS FESTIVAL

takes hold and you start digging up dirt or
building a road more aggressively.

Participants get to operate an excavator,
bulldozer, or skid steer loader at individual
work sites, constructing roads,
building dams, digging trenches, or creating
whatever their mind envisions. Dig
This offers a “First Tracks” 2-hour session
for clients with limited time. It includes
orientation, safety instruction, and about
an hour of either bulldozer or excavator
operating time. During the half-day session,
participants get more than 2 hours of
operating time on one of the machines.
During the full-day session, participants
get more than 4 hours of operating time
and can split it between two machines.

Playing in the sand and rocks at Dig This
is one of the most popular activities for
vacationers who come to Steamboat to ski
in the winter, or explore the mountains
during the summer. Companies bring
executives here for team-building exercises,
and locals show up for birthday parties
and anniversary outings.

436
Frozen Dead Guy Days Festival
Party with Frozen Grandpa Bredo
Nederland, Colorado, U.S.A.
Steamboat Springs is prettiest in the
summer, fall, and winter. (Spring is mud
season here and locals disappear.) In the
winter, skiers and snowboarders flock to
the slopes at Steamboat Resort, which
coined the term “Champagne Power,”
because the snow is so light. In the summer,
visitors hike or mountain bike on
trails threading the mountainsides, or play
golf. —LF

Dig This, 1169 Hilltop Pkwy. (& 888/
DIG-THIS [344-8447] or 970/367-4402;
www.digthis.info).
WHEN TO GO: Year-round.
Yampa Valley Regional Airport in
Hayden (26 miles/42km).
$$–$$$ Sheraton Steamboat
Springs, 2200 Village Inn Court (& 800/
325-3535 or 970/879-2220; www.sheraton.
com/steamboat). $–$$ Hotel Bristol, 917
Lincoln Ave. (&800/851-0872 or 970/8793083;
www.steamboathotelbristol.com).


Yes. There really is a dead guy on ice in a
shed in Nederland, Colorado! And,
Grandpa Bredo is the perfect excuse for
the annual Frozen Dead Guy Days Festival
packed with partying and fun events.
Birthed as a mining town, some now claim
Nederland to be one of the remaining bastions
of hippydom, so a festival of this
nature isn’t out of character.

The winters in Nederland (a community
of approx. 1,400, located 17 miles [27km]
west of Boulder, CO) are long, and cabin
fever is severe. But, as the daylight hours
increase, spring is about to arrive, and
locals prep for the craziness accompanying

ski season’s end, everyone is ripe for the
Frozen Dead Guy events.

Grandpa Bredo died in Norway, was
packed in ice, and shipped to a cryonics
facility in California, where he resided in
liquid nitrogen for 3 years. He was then
transported to Nederland, where his
daughter, Aud, and grandson Trygve,
were planning to build their own cryonics
facility. Grandpa was kept on ice in a shed
awaiting a cure for death, but Trygve was
deported for visa expiration and Aud was
forced to move from her house because
there was no plumbing or electricity. After
much bickering and publicity, Bredo was

373


OFFBEAT ADVENTURES


Contestants compete in the coffin race at the Frozen Dead Guy Days Festival.

“grandfathered” into a town ordinance
forbidding the keeping of dead bodies and
body parts. Trygve secured the services of
a local environmental company, which
packs 1,600 pounds (726kg) of ice around
Grandpa every month. And a new festival
was born.

The 21.2-day festival, held the first weekend
in March, includes lots of wacky
events. The Ice Blue Ball on Friday evening
includes a Grandpa Bredo look-alike contest
followed by a midnight champagne
tour that includes spending an hour with
the Frozen Dead Guy. Saturday features a
slow parade, an obstacle course, coffin
race (six pallbearers carrying a coffin with
a rider, all in costume), the adrenalinefilled
Polar Plunge, a frozen dough ball
toss, a pack your pants with snow contest,
a frozen T-shirt contest, and a late night
Pub Crawl. Sunday’s events include the
Sundance Salmon Toss, a Beach Volleyball
Contest, and a Blue Ball (Rocky Mountain
oysters) Eating Contest. Entry forms for
these events can be obtained through the
Nederland Chamber of Commerce.

Nederland is easy to reach by car and
local bus service from Boulder. During

early March there is still skiing at nearby
Eldora Ski Resort and several major ski
resorts, including Vail, Copper, Keystone,
and Winter Park, all within a 2-hour drive.
Central City, an old mining-turned-gambling
town a dozen miles (19km) away, is
home of the famous Face on the Barroom
Floor. A visit to the old cemetery at the far
end of town is interesting and worthwhile.
And Boulder, home to the University of
Colorado, is a great place to spend a day
or two. —LF

Nederland Chamber (& 303/2583936;
www.nederlandchamber.org). Visitor
Guide to Boulder (www.norman
koren.com/Boulder.html).
WHEN TO GO: First weekend in Mar.
Denver International Airport (59
miles/95km).
$–$$ Mountain View Chalet Cabin
Rental (& 303/258-9219; www.mtnview
chalet.com). $ Best Western Lodge At
Nederland, 55 Lakeview Dr. (& 800/
279-9463 or 303/258-9463; www.best
westerncolorado.com/hotels/bestwestern-
lodge-at-nederland).



THE IVREA ORANGE BATTLE

437
The Ivrea Orange Battle
Blood & Orange Juice
Ivrea, Italy
What would you do if some dark knight
rode into town and tried to steal your fiancee’s
virginity? Pelt him with an orange is
what. In fact, several hundred thousand if
you feel like it. This is what happens in the
northwestern Italian town of Ivrea every
February. The normally sedate village 40
minutes north of Turin becomes a seething
mass of fruit hurling maniacs, intent on
whacking opposing teams with oranges
that end up mulched and stomped into the
ground, leaving the town looking like it has
been hit by a monsoon of vitamin C. The
citrus carnage has a medieval appearance
as tall box carts dressed up like castles
trundle through the city streets and plazas.
Inside are a line of men dressed up like a
juicy version of the Praetorian guard with
sinister black helmets and padded suits.
They are deluged by volleys of oranges
from the thoroughfares packed with slinging
participants, themselves dressed like
aggressive court jesters with checkered
scarves, grey tights, and scorpion adorned
shirts. Spectators, buildings, and windows
are protected by large net canopies and
those wearing red scarves are deemed
neutral and thus protected against a hard
whack of sunny delight—in theory. In fact,
everybody is at risk of getting a bruising—
including the insanely unprotected riders
and the unfortunate horses.

There are actually several versions of
the festival’s origins, one including a tale
of a girl on a balcony trying to attract a
boy’s attention by smacking him with an
orange. It is unrecorded if this come-on
worked. The most compelling story comes
from Medieval times when the local tyrant
Count Ranieri of Biandrate used to insist
on bedding every local maiden on the eve

of her wedding. One such girl stood up to
him however and cut his head off, hanging
it from his castle battlements which was
then promptly stormed by a baying crowd
and burned to the ground. The veracity of
this story is as shaky as the story behind
the Turin Shroud on display in the nearby
Turin cathedral, but it does not stop the
locals and whoever else from pouring
onto the streets to reenact the battle of
good over evil for 3 days before Fat Tuesday,
the day before Lent begins. There are
nine competing teams and up to 3,000
spectators. Fifty horse carts are pulled
through five flag bedecked districts that
become major battlegrounds as the locals
come out to defend their turf. The spectacle
is open to all but you must join a team
if you wish to become a true blue orange
slinger. Team names include the Scorpions,
the Chessmen, and the Ace of Clubs.
Participants get a free meal of beans
before the skirmishes commence and
prizes are handed out at the end to the
most valiant and accurate. Fired up on
mulled wine, the participants turn an
orange into a lethal projectile and injuries
are not uncommon with blood and orange
juice streaming down more than one
head. —CO’M

Carnival of Ivrea (www.carnevale
diivrea.it).
WHEN TO GO: Feb.
Turin (53km/33 miles).
$$$ Grand Hotel Sitea, Via Carlo
Alberto, 35 (&39/11/517-0171; www.thihotels.
com). $$ Hotel Master, Corso
Grosseto 366/7 (& 39/11/455-5482;
www.masterhoteltorino.it).

375


OFFBEAT ADVENTURES

438
The Candle Race
Totem Gesture
Gubbio, Umbria, Italy
The crowds pack the narrow streets of this
medieval town. They are all waiting in
anticipation and look up the steep street
bordered on either side by tall medieval,
gothic, and renaissance buildings from
which hang banners and flags. Many people
are dressed up in brightly colored silk
shirts of blue, yellow, and black. They
wear scarves around their necks and
white pants. Drummers and trumpet players
add to the sense of old world pageantry
and the bells of the local church
peal above the roof tops. All eyes are on
the top street corner and people shout
expectantly. Suddenly, the huge throng
parts like the Red Sea and a train of men
come rushing through carrying tall fat
wooden pillars with religious figurines on
top. There are three such massive masts
and they sail through the crowd with
remarkable speed, taking on a life of their
own like some sort of animated standing
stones that have just escaped from Easter
Island. Around the corner they jauntily go,
trailing a blaze of color as the troop of carriers
sport red scarves, fez hats, and
sashes. The speeding totem poles disappear
and the crowd erupts into joyous
clapping and screaming. Women weep
and babies wail. To an outsider it might
appear slightly ridiculous. Be careful to not
smirk, however. The locals take the Festa
de Ceri very seriously.

The title Candle Race is a complete misnomer.
There are no candles and there is
no race. The big sticks are made from
wood not wax and the rush around town is
ceremonious in nature, the teams judged
by their skill in carrying these unwieldy
columns rather than who crosses the finishing
line first. Each pole represents a

patron Saint who in turn represents a faction
of the community—thus the passion,
loyalty, and rivalry. St. Ubaldo is the union
representative of the masons. St. Anthony
is shop steward for the farmers, and St.
George, chief negotiator for traders and
artisans. Traditionally families are tied to a
particular saint and their pride and honor
is at stake to ensure their holy man conducts
himself well in this annual mill
around town.

The town is Gubbio, tucked in the Apennine
mountains, on the slopes of Mount
Ingino in central Italy, 200km (124 miles)
north of Rome. Its cobbled streets and
grey limestone buildings exude history
and just outside the town is one of the
country’s best preserved Roman amphitheaters,
a temple to Jupiter that is still
used for shows and events. The village
holds a famous medieval archery competition
each year and its history goes back
even before the Romans, to an ancient
Umbrian race evident in bronze tablets
carved in an extinct language. Known as
the Gubbio Tables, they can be seen in the
castle-like Palazzo dei Consoli.

It is in this mammoth, fortresslike building
that the Candle Race kicks off with a
swordsman dashing up and down the
steps in a ceremony heavy with heritage if
short on logic. Eventually the bulky, octagonal
pillars emerge from the building like
giant coffins. They have been there for a
week, pulled from the local basilica where
they must now return. But not before
being hoisted into a vertical position and
propelled around the town. Jugs of water
are thrown over the crowd and crockery
broken. Banners unfurl, trumpets blare,
and the town surrenders to abandoned

376


THE HOLI FESTIVAL OF COLOR

revelry laced with fierce pride. The candles
are loose. —CO’M

Bella Umbria (www.bellaumbria.net/
Gubbio).
WHEN TO GO: May 15.


439
The Holi Festival of Color
Hue & Dye
New Delhi, India
Perugia (42km/26 miles).
$$$ Park Hotel Ai Cappuccini, Via
Tifernate (& 39/75/9234; www.parkhotel
aicappuccini.it). $$ Relais Ducale Hotel,
Via Galleotti 19 (&39/75/922-0157; www.
RelaisDucale-Gubbio.com).

Find yourself in India’s capital at a certain
time of year and you’ll be in for a rude
surprise. New Delhi may be the subcontinent’s
most ordered metropolis—a
planned city of wide, tree-lined boulevards
and arterial roads, yet such cosmopolitan
tidiness is subverted somewhat in the
month of March. You’ll notice it in the blue
dogs that wander the Chandni Chowk
market place and the pink hair of the older
folks sitting in front of the modernist Lotus
Temple. You’ll certainly notice it when a
total stranger approaches you outside the
beautiful Red Fort and pours a bucket of
bright orange gloop over your head.

The Hindu Festival of Color, known
as Holi, is a riot of paint throwing and
water splashing. Paintballs, squirt guns,
and buckets are all used as neighbor turns
on neighbor in a violent explosion of color
letting. Mounds of vibrant powder sit in
front of market stalls as vendors take
advantage of the population’s 2-week
obsession with paint and pigment. Musicians
bang on drums while dancers take to
the streets in what is an exuberant celebration
of the coming of spring. Gangs of
youths high on traditional marijuana flavored
milkshakes wander the streets with
armories of dubious colorants looking for
a victim. Foreigners are not immune to
their attentions, so do what the locals do
and don some old clothes. Many of the

dyes are permanent so it is also a good
idea to cover your hair and face. Harmless
dried flowers were the traditional source
of color for centuries, used with flour and
water. However, rampant urbanization in
the region means there are fewer flowers,
so poorer people are using synthetic dyes
of dubious origin with serious concerns
regarding toxicology. One year it was discovered
some villagers were dousing each
other in asbestos powder and other dyes
used reputedly induced asthma, blindness,
even cancer.

Holi is celebrated throughout India,
Nepal, and Bangladesh, and the Hindu
diaspora around the world. It is especially
intense in the northern region of Braj,
where different villages and towns have
their own traditions, usually associated
with the myths and legends of the Hindu
god Lord Vishnu as the area was reputedly
his youthful hunting ground. One such ritual
is the Lath Marholi in the town of
Barsama. There, thousands gather to reenact
a piece of mythical domestic violence.
Women beat men around the head
with large sticks while the males respond
with lewd and provocative songs. Not all
of it is play acting. The entire countryside
lights up with thousands of bonfires to
celebrate the triumph of good over evil. In
the town of Vrindavan, revelers gather at
the tall, red, bullet-shaped temples to

377


OFFBEAT ADVENTURES

Krishna to throw orange petal water and
sing the Hindu folk songs known as hori.
From here you can make a 1-day trip to the
Taj Mahal, that monument to love amidst
this celebration of color. —CO’M

www.holifestival.org.
WHEN TO GO: Feb to early Mar.
440
Devon Barrel Burning
Great Barrels of Fire
Ottery St. Mary, Devonshire, England
New Delhi.
$$$ Taj Mahal Hotel, 1, Mansingh
Rd. (& 91/11/23026162; www.tajhotels.
com). $$ Shanti Home, A-1/300 Janakpuri
(& 91/11/4157-3366; www.shantihome.
com).


The Devonshire town of Ottery St. Mary is a
fire fighter’s nightmare every 5th of November.
All of Britain indulges in a week of
pyromaniacal lunacy for the week preceding
with giant bonfires and fireworks celebrating
Guy Fawkes. Yet this small village in
the south west of England throws gas on
the fire (so to speak) by encouraging the
locals to run through the crowded streets
with flaming barrels of tar on their backs.
Teenagers, women, and men all indulge in
this quaint practice that sometimes results
in scorched scalps and burned shoulders.
The huge crowd that turns up to see the
event means everybody is at risk from the
burning barrels. Shopfronts are often damaged
in the crush as people scream and flee
the melee.

Its beginning in the afternoon is low key
and gives little hint of the madness ahead.
The town has a holiday atmosphere and a
fairground is set up along the river Otter
and a 11m (35 ft.) bonfire waits to be lit.
However, there are plenty of signs posted
on walls that say “You are here at your own
risk” and when the locals start popping off
homemade cannons made from plumbing
pipe stuffed with gunpowder you know you
are in for something different.

Seventeen barrels are lit and hauled
through the street. Enthusiastic youths
cover themselves in wet clothing and wear

gloves before they put a burning barrel on
their backs and run through the streets. As
the evening proceeds the barrels get bigger
and bigger, culminating in a 50kg (110lb.)
monster known as the Midnight Barrel.
Runners must have lived in the village for
at least 6 years and many guard their right
to barrel burn with fierce pride. The idea is
to run as long as possible with the barrel
on top before the heat becomes unbearable.
Experienced barrel runners skillfully
spin the barrel on their backs to lessen the
heat. Then the barrel is passed to another
family member who continues to rush
through the screaming crowd like a stuntman
whose stunt has gone awry.

Nobody knows why Ottery St. Mary
indulges in burning barrels. Some say it is
an old pagan ritual to ward off evil, others
say it comes from the medieval practice of
fumigating cottages. Still others say it’s a
centuries-old celebration of defeating the
Spanish Armada. Whatever its origins, the
barrel burning now coincides with the British
tradition of burning effigies of Guy
Fawkes, an 18th-century catholic who
tried to blow up the protestant parliament
in what became known as the Gunpowder
Plot. People gather around giant bonfires
and it is no understatment to say alcohol is
imbibed. In fact every one of the 17 barrels
that flames through Ottery St. Mary is

378


BULL RUNNING IN ECUADOR

sponsored by a local pub from which it is
successfully launched with much bravado.

—CO’M

www.tarbarrels.co.uk.
WHEN TO GO: Nov 5.
441
Bull Running in Ecuador
Horn of Plenty
Otavalo, Imbabura, Ecuador
Exeter (21km/13 miles).
$$$ Combe House Devon, Gittisham,
Honiton, Exeter (& 44/1404/540400;
www.thishotel.com). $$$ Larkbeare
Grange, Larkbeare, Talaton, Exeter (&44/
1404/822-069; www.larkbeare.net).


There is plenty to thrill you in Ecuador and
this beautiful country has no shortage of
unforgettable sights. Tucked in the northwest
of South America, it’s crossed by
Andean peaks that have earned the local
Pan-American Highway the sobriquet “the
Avenue of Volcanoes.” Ice-capped, coneshaped
peaks billow smoke on either side
as you take the road to the high altitude
capital Quito, itself a visitor’s delight with
an old quarter crammed with colonial
churches and cobbled streets. To the east
lie lush jungles and cascading waterfalls
and to the west sweeping beaches and
ideal waves for surfing. Farther out in the
Pacific are the famous Galapagos Islands,
with their astounding wildlife (see ) that
will make any photographer snap happy.
Yet of all these arresting visions, there is
none more unforgettable than the sight of
one ton of raging black muscle storming
toward you on a village square while a
jeering crowd bay for your blood.

The locals say that a fiesta patronal is
not a success unless at least two ambulances
cart off some hapless victims to the
local hospital. The green rolling hills and
volcanoes of Imbabura province north of
the capital hide a heap of indigenous villages
where the locals love to gather once
a year and get gouged by an angry bull.
Each town has its own patron saint party
on a certain weekend where brass bands
take to streets playing jaunty military

tunes and kids light bonfires on the corners,
burning effigies and parading in costumes.
Otavala, 95km (59 miles) north of
Quito and just across the equator, is one
such place. This famous artisan market
town has proud Indian routes where the
men wear long straight black hair in distinctive
ponytails and women wear multistranded
bead necklaces, their short
round bodies wrapped up in ponchos and
petticoats and topped with a slanted
bowler hat.

For the festival, a rickety wooden stand
is built around the central plaza and a set
of stockades set up around a newly laid
sand pit. A tall greasy pole is raised at its
center and crowned with a sack full of
goodies. Inebriated men jump from their
seats and race across to the pole, which
they hopelessly attempt to climb while a
bull storms into the arena. Mayhem breaks
loose as the bull makes a bull’s-eye of the
man’s hind quarters and charges for it.
Other members of the public rush from
their seats to distract the animal and are
subsequently chased to the surrounding
walls where they leap the fence just as the
animal’s fiercesome horns crash into the
woodwork. Just as proceedings are getting
a little chaotic, another raging male
cow is released into the arena for good
measure and general pandemonium
breaks loose; inevitably one of the public
slips and is tossed in the air like a rag doll.

379


OFFBEAT ADVENTURES

Blood streams from his forehead as he
rushes to the stockade with his hand held
forward. People try to help him jump but
no, he does not want out, he just wants a
sip of their beer.

Ecuadoreans love a good party and are
some of the most committed drinkers on
the planet, frequently fired up by $1 bottles
of industrial alcohol. No doubt such
beverages have an influential role on who
is brave enough to leave the stands and
take a chance across the arena. The great
thing about bull running here is that
nobody gets hurt, at least those who don.t
deserve to. That includes the bull who

442
The Great Knaresborough Bed Race
Bed Fellows
Knaresborough, North Yorkshire, England
survives to gouge another day in another
nearby village. —CO’M

Exploring Ecuador (www.exploring
ecuador.com).
WHEN TO GO: June. Check local listings
for exact dates.


Quito (95km/59 miles).
$$$ Hacienda Cusin, San Pablo del
Lago, Otavalo (& 593/6/2918-013; www.
haciendacusin.com). $$ Hacienda Pinsaqui,
Pan-American Hwy. Km 5, Otavalo
(& 593/6/2946-116; www.hacienda
pinsaqui.com).


A team of six men push a double-decker
London bus up a river. Take a closer look
and you’ll see the bus is actually a cleverly
disguised bed with a woman on it. The
men struggle through the water and up a
muddy bank. They must hurry. Santa Claus
and his six reindeers are in hot pursuit
despite nearly capsizing in the water.

The Great Knaresborough Bed Race is
exactly what it sounds like, a bed race
through the North Yorkshire market town
of Knaresborough. Six runners take a bed
and make it road worthy. They then put a
member of the opposite sex on it and race
up steep hills, across a park, and down a
river. Beforehand there is a parade of the
80-odd quilted roadsters that come disguised
as trains, planes, and automobiles,
even the occasional house. The fact that
they must travel 30m (98 ft.) up a deep river
gives a whole new meaning to parade float.
Thousands turn out to see this colorful
spectacle with much cheering and jeering
as the different teams struggle over the
3km (nearly 2-mile) run. Some take the race
very seriously and complete it in less than

13 minutes. Others take as long as they like
to complete this four-poster caper.

The race first started in 1965 as a bit of
fun between teams from the British Army,
Navy, and U.S. Marines. It has since
morphed into one of the major annual
events that takes place in the beautiful and
rugged North Yorkshire region. With 40%
of this Northern England county covered
in national parks, there is plenty to see and
explore, including the Yorkshire Dales and
North York Moors. However, for one crazy
day in June the whole area turns out to
watch this town parade and race. Pipe
bands and vintage cars roll through the
picturesque village while the quaint country
pubs do a brisk trade. The race begins
at Conyngham Hall and climbs up a hill
overlooked by the town’s castle ruins.
Then it proceeds down to the River Nidd,
where crowds watch as the teams struggle
with their customized beds and some
disintegrate in the water with cardboard
and papier-mache floating away downriver.
Then they scramble up a muddy
bank and race for the finishing line.

380


The event raises thousands of British
pounds each year for different charities
and is actually oversubscribed with more
than 100 bed teams eager to participate.
Competitors come from as far as Germany
to try their luck in a race that turns out to
be pure bedlam. —CO’M

www.knaresborough.co.uk/bedrace.
443
Roller Girls Running of the Bulls
Southern Discomfort
New Orleans, Louisiana, U.S.A.
ROLLER GIRLS RUNNING OF THE BULLS

WHEN TO GO: June.
Leeds (29km/18 miles).
$$$ Residence 6, The Old Post
Office, 3 Infirmary St., Leeds (& 44/
113/285-6250; www.residencesix.com).
$$ Roomzzz Central, 2 Burley Rd. (&44/
113/233-0400; www.roomzzz.co.uk).


The gun is fired and they are off. A pack of
brave runners dressed in white shirts hurtle
through the French Quarter of New
Orleans with big beefy girls on roller
skates tearing after them. The bruising
females chase and whack their prey with
whiffle ball bats and are dressed with massive
horns for added menace. There is no
doubt that they are a fearsome sight as
they bear down on a limping runner and
beat and pummel the hapless athlete.
Even more outrageous are the spectators
who look on, chomping their beignets
(large French doughnuts) and jeering
when some slow poke is caught and gored
with a bat.

Here in this Deep South city famous
both for Mardi Gras and Creole, the roller
girls provide a modern twist on the Pamplona
Bull Run (see ). A wine merchant
called Mickey Hanning started the event in
2007. He loved the adrenaline rush
involved in the Spanish version and
decided that New Orleans should host a
bull run of its own. However, bulls are in
short supply in Louisiana (or maybe insurance
men are in good supply), so Mickey
had a few words with a team of roller racers
called the Big Easy Roller Girls, hoping
that some tough American broads could
stand in as the bulls. Their captain, a

The menacing “bulls” on roller skates in New
Orleans.


woman who goes by the name of Archbishop
Pummel, sent Mickey a reply, “I’ve
got a bunch of bad ass chicks on wheels
who probably wouldn’t mind beating up a
bunch of guys.” And so the Running of the
Bulls went stateside.

It takes place in July with over 30 roller
girls forming teams with names like Confederacy
of Punches and Crescent
Wenches. The chase gets underway at the
Three Legged Dog, one of the French

381


OFFBEAT ADVENTURES

Quarters pretty Creole houses and over
600 runners are pursued down Bourbon
Street toward the Mississippi River. For
comic effect (as if things were not hilarious
enough) the Roller girls are themselves
harried by the Rolling Elvis, a group of Elvis
impersonators on sputtering scooters.
The anarchic run comes to a climax amid
much pounding and pummeling at the
Gazebo on the river bank. The finishing
line then turns into a block party with dirty
rice, jambalaya, and pecan pie washed
down with beer and bourbon.

444
Irish Road Bowling
Country Roads
Ireland, West Virginia, U.S.A.
The Roller Girls Running of the Bulls is
open to everybody. You just need to turn up
in white clothes and a red scarf and be prepared
to be terrified and humiliated. —CO’M

www.bigeasyrollergirls.com.
WHEN TO GO: July.
New Orleans.


$$$ Le Pavillon Hotel, 833 Poydras
St. (& 504/581-3111; www.lepavillon.
com). $$ Quality Inn & Suites, 210
O’Keefe Ave. (& 504/525-6800; www.
qualityinn.com).
The neighbors have lost their marbles, or
more likely their cannon balls. Pick any
summer weekend in bucolic West Virginia
and you are likely to find the locals wandering
the picturesque laneways, thrashing
through shrubland, shuffling in the woods,
and rifling through the long grass. A large
sign sits by the road asking motorists to
slow down as the ancient art of Irish road
bowling is under way. Men, women, and
children sprint along the tarmac and with a
underswing that would put the Big Lebowski
to shame, fling a 28-ounce metal ball
along the road to their team members up
ahead. They shout “bowling” to warn the
innocent that a heavy metal projectile is in
motion. The idea is to throw the ball as far
as possible with the least amount of strokes
over a course that varies between 1 and 2
miles in length. Each team member picks
up where the previous thrower landed the
ball and any stray must be hunted down in
the thickets, hedges and rolling pastures
this rural state is famous for.

When John Denver sang of West Virginia’s
pastoral rural highways, he probably

Irish road bowling is taken seriously in Ireland,
West Virginia.


never imagined those same roadways loitered
with ball hurlers. In fact, road bowling
goes way back before the 1970’s radio
hit. Back to the civil war, in fact, when a
union troop of Irish soldiers called Mulligan’s
Brigade fought the many battles that
took place in this southern state that is not
quite southern. Between skirmishes they

382


WASSERSCHLACTS STREET FOOD FIGHT

picked up any spare cannonballs that lay
around and took some R & R by indulging
in some road bowling. The rolling green
hills of West Virginia must have struck
them as very similar to their own country
where road bowling can be traced back to
the 17th century.

One townland looks so much like Ireland
it was called after it, and now Ireland,
West Virginia, is the nucleus of a sport that
is gaining in popularity and has events in
places as far off as Chicago and New York.
This small rural village is 90 miles (145km)
north east of the state capital Charleston
and home to the West Virginia Irish Road
Bowling Association.

As one aficionado put it, “All you need is
a $5 ball, a piece of chalk, and a road.” It is
this ease and accessibility that makes the
sport popular with all ages. Three generations
of family members jog the roads,

445
Wasserschlacts Street Food Fight
Apocalypse Chow
Berlin, Germany
chasing balls and marking landing spots.
In fact, it is not much different from an
energetic country walk on a lazy afternoon
with the occasional burst of energy and a
keen sense of competitiveness. It’s
enough to bowl you over. —CO’M

West Virginia Irish Road Bowling
Association (& 202/387-1680; www.
wvirishroadbowling.com).
WHEN TO GO: Spring and summer weekends.
Charleston (90 miles/145km).
$$ Embassy Suites Hotel
Charleston, 337 Meeting St., Charleston
(& 843/723-6900; www.embassysuites.
com). $$ Hampton Inn Buckhannon,
1 Commerce Blvd., Buckhannon, WV
(&304/473-0900; www.hamptoninn.com).

It is not often you see a super hero wearing
rubber gloves, a gas mask, and carrying
a bin liner full of half eaten burgers. He
passes the uneaten whoppers to his
accomplice, who operates a giant catapult
that will “whopper” the said burgers over
a teeming crowd of food fighting warriors.
They bear helmets, goggles, and rubber
sticks and all are smeared in rotten food
that varies from mushy tomatoes to soggy
gherkins. The crowd faces off in the middle
of a city bridge in Berlin and chants and
screams before unleashing every type of
wet and slicky substance imaginable,
including rotten fish and dirty diapers.
Gunk and slime cover everything and soon
it looks like a medieval battle in a landfill
site with everybody whacking each other
with foam sticks and shields fashioned

from garbage can lids and hubcaps. Is it
any wonder the event known as the Wasserschlacts
is sponsored by a waste disposal
company?

The event is all the more bizarre for its
setting. The ornate Oberbaumbrucke
bridge is a city landmark designed in a German
gothic style with red brick arches,
two pointy towers, and cross vaults. It is
more used to genteel tourists strolling its
two-deck structure than a thousand food
anarchists clashing on the ramparts.
Indeed as the food fight descends into a
chaos of airborne liquid, spray, and
screaming maniacs, tourists float down
the river Spree below on day cruisers, taking
photos of the carnage above and perhaps
getting hit by the occasional stray
water balloon.

383


OFFBEAT ADVENTURES

The bridge is a shining symbol of unity,
which is all the more ironic as the street
fight is a grubby emblem of disunity. It
connects the two districts of Friedrichshain
and Kreuzberg, which were separated
for half a century by the Cold War.
When the Berlin Wall came down in 1989,
the authorities thought it prudent and
right that both districts should be joined.
However, they never discussed it with the
residents, who resented assimilation with
the other. In 1998 the first crowds gathered
on the bridge to taunt and challenge
the other side. The idea was to conquer,
not unite, and people from Kreuzberg
referred to Friedrichshain mockingly as
East Kreuzberg and in turn Kreuzberg was
referred to its opponents as Lower Friedrichshain.
What began as a simple water
and flour fight evolved into an elaborate
free for all, with some years seeing near
riots with cars set alight and buildings
damaged. Police frequently step in to stop
the event and it was cancelled in 2006 and
2007. In 2003 an angry mob turned on the
intervening police and pelted them with
stockpiled fruit and eggs.

446
Civil War Reenactment
War Fair
Gettysburg, Pennsylvania, U.S.A.
The whole chaotic event has a leftwing,
punkish, anarchic air with more than a few
participants sporting mohawks and tattoos.
Gangs are formed with names such
as the Cynical Offensive Brigade and they
gather shopping carts, homemade water
cannon, and scaffold attack towers. The
only rule is that no fresh food can be used
and the event is open to anybody brave
enough to face the fray. If you do decide to
go to battle, join the Kreuzberg crew. They
have never won a battle yet as they are
heavily outnumbered by much larger
Friedrichshain. They desperately need
your help and all your rubbish. —CO’M

WHEN TO GO: July.
Berlin.
$$ Adina Apartment Hotel Checkpoint
Charlie, Krausenstrasse 35–36
(& 49/30/2007670; www.adina.eu).
$$ Mercure Hotel Checkpoint Charlie,
Schutzenstrasse 11(& 49/30 206320;
www.accorhotels.com).

The glow of campfires and flickering candles
behind white canvas tents fades out as
the sun rises over the rolling hills of Gettysburg,
Pennsylvania. At 5am the bugle call of
reveile prods the bearded soldiers from
their sleep and they gather around the
remaining embers of the campfire to drink
oily coffee. Some dig out salt pork and hard

tack from crumpled waxed paper for breakfast
before battle, while others put on
hand-knit wool socks and wrap up their
blanket rolls. This is as authentic a civil war
scene as you’ll get, until someone admires
a fellow soldier’s Otis Baker braces and the
wearer describes enthusiastically how he
got them for a bargain on Craig’s List.

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CIVIL WAR REENACTMENT

Another shows a companion how he got
his once shiny buttons to tarnish nicely with
a little nail polish remover. Still, the thrill of
being on-site at this, one of the most historied
battlefields in the world, is timeless.

Every weekend thousands of men and
some women gather at a civil war battle
site somewhere along the Mason Dixon line
to reenact a bloody episode from the
momentous conflict. While the real war was
split between north and south, federals and
confederates, modern day reenactors are
split between lightweights known as farbs
and hardcore authentics known as stitch
Nazis for their obsession with hand stitching
every item of clothing down to their
underwear. Some take their task so seriously
they will sleep in ditches and march
miles weighed down with rifles, bayonets,
and knapsacks.

The most famous of these simulated
battles is Gettysburg. The key battle of the
civil war, where Robert E. Lee was forced
to abandon his invasion of the north, is
now an annual get-together for history
buffs, tourists, and hardcore reenactors.
Based around the July 4th holidays, the
3-day event sees five major battle reconstructions,
live mortar fire demonstrations,
and a living history village with
costumed locals partaking in blacksmithing
and period medical demonstrations.
The real battle itself was one of the bloodiest
in this tumultuous period in American
history with 51,000 casualties, including
8,000 dead. For 3 days General Lee
directed a confederate onslaught against
the union defenses on ridge lines south of
the town. The federals were lead by General
George Meade, who eventually forced
his southern opponent to retreat back to
Virginia. Gettysburg was then the site of

Lincoln’s famous speech that rallied the
unionist cause.

The actual battle site is now a national
cemetery and military park. The Gettysburg
reenactment takes place several
miles away on some sweeping hills along
Pumping Station road. Thirteen thousand
reenactors gather to relive certain key
moments, and visitors can drop in and see
reconstructions of critical moments such
as General Lee having a staff meeting to
plot out his strategy and the important
battle for Culp’s Hill. A 50-cannon salute
starts the event and visitors pay a $24
entrance fee to witness talks and demonstrations
with themes such as the Medical
Horrors of the Battle and Spies of the Civil
War. However, the true excitement lies in
actually joining the fight and reliving the
battles that include 500-horse mounted
cavalry maneuvers and big gun artillery
movements. Volunteers just need to turn
up at the registration post every morning
and pay a $20 fee to join the fight. You
need to bring your own uniform and
equipment and there is a thriving trade in
period props to make every participant
look the part. —CO’M

Gettysburg National Military Park
(&717/334-1124; www.nps.gov/GETT).
WHEN TO GO: Weekend closest to July
4th.


Harrisburg (38 miles/61km).
$$$ Wyndham Gettysburg, 95 Presidential
Circle (& 717/339-0020; www.
wyndham.com). $$ Brickhouse Inn Bed
& Breakfast, 452 Baltimore St. (& 717/
338-9337; www.brickhouseinn.com).


OFFBEAT ADVENTURES

Exotic Eating

The waiters are laughing among themselves and pointing at you—they know you’re
not from around here, but you somehow stumbled into their little eatery and you’re
going to consume something you’ve never eaten before. Perhaps it was alive only
minutes before, crawling up a tree, or maybe it was a pet you cherished as a child.
No matter. You’re hungry, you’re tired, you don’t speak the language and besides,
how bad can it be? Plus, eating as the locals do gives you a sense of pride and
exhilaration—no matter what’s on the menu. Your waiter approaches, a sly smile on
his face, carrying a steaming hot plate of . . . something. Bon appetit! —ML


Fugu in Japan: Hundreds of people are killed each year by eating this delicacy
when it’s prepared with less-than-flawless precision—but why should that stop you?
Fugu (commonly known as pufferfish) contains a lethal poison, deadlier than cyanide,
that’s concentrated in its liver and sex organs. Chefs are required to get a
special license to prepare fugu, and any chef whose customer dies from his preparation
is honor-bound to kill himself by seppuku. But if the fish doesn’t kill you, the bill
might: One fugu dinner usually costs about $400.
Hakarl in Iceland: Eaten fresh, this meat of the basking shark is quite toxic,
owing to the amount of uric acid in its body. After careful preparation, which involves
burying the shark in gravel until it rots, it’s not much better—some have compared
the strong ammonia taste to eating solid urine. Vomiting is a frequent response for
newcomers to this delicacy, but drinking a shot of Brennivin, the local booze charmingly
known as “Black Death,” makes it go down easier.
Pulque in Mexico: This milky, alcoholic drink was once the exclusive domain of
Aztec chieftains and nobles. To extract this nectar from a mature agave plant, farmers
must tap the heart of the plant with a fat wooden tube and then suck out the sap,
which is known as aquamiel, or “honey water,” for its sweet taste. After fermenting,
the drink takes on a sour flavor that can be cut with spices, fruit or other flavoring.
Fried Spider in Cambodia: Crunchy on the outside, soft and chewy on the
inside. Sounds like a perfect snack, right? It is for Cambodians, who flock to the town
of Skuon (north of Phnom Penh) to dine on spiders—specifically, Thai zebra tarantulas—
that are tossed in a mix of garlic and salt, then skillet-fried to perfection. They’re
only about 3 inches long, but the cost of about 8. (1. per leg?) makes them an affordable
meal. Market vendors swear that when mulled in a rice wine cocktail, spiders
are great for those with backaches or breathing problems.
Durian in Malaysia: The noxious smell of this spiky, 2.3kg (5 lb.) fruit has been
compared to everything from dirty diapers to turpentine, with top notes of sweaty
gym socks and a stale, vomit-like finish. No wonder it’s banned from most hotels,
airports, and public transportation in Southeast Asia. Even taxi drivers—not known
for their delicate olfactory sensitivities—won’t allow it in their cabs. So what’s the
allure? Cracking open the fruit, which releases even more of its stench, reveals the

 EXOTIC EATING

pulpy, cream-colored flesh that has a smooth, gelatinous consistency and a flavor
like almond custard. It’s an acquired taste.


Bull Penis in China: Yes, of course it’s an aphrodisiac, one of many favored by
Chinese gourmands. Bull penis is usually sliced lengthwise, then filleted in such a way
that when it’s served in soup—the usual presentation—it curls up and takes the shape
of a pale, fleshy flower. The flavor and consistency are similar to calamari. If you’re
afraid you can’t handle this, maybe your waiter could bring you something more palatable,
like goat penis, chicken feet, donkey vulva, or dog penis. Naturally, you’ll want to
wash down whatever you’re having with a refreshing slug of deer-penis juice.
Rats in Thailand: How could anyone resist these furry critters, especially when
they’re freshly roasted and served piping hot? The rats are trapped in rice paddies
(where they fatten up on rice plants), drowned, skinned, then cooked in a wok with
oil and spicy chili paste. Most first-timers are surprised at how pleasantly flavored rat
meat is; not gamey at all, it’s sometimes compared to rabbit. And the burgeoning
market in rats helps to control the rodent population. Now, would someone please
forward that info to the New York City subway authority?
Sago Worms in Papua New Guinea: The Asmat cannibals of Papua New
Guinea would often eat the brains of their enemies, right out of the skull, mixed with
a handful of sago worms. If you’re more of a sago worm purist, however, you may
want to forgo the brains and dine on these plump little slugs the modern way,
roasted on a spit, or simply smoked. The larvae of the sago palm weevil, sago worms
are about an inch or two long and are full of protein and other nutrients. Fans of the
worms, who usually grab them by their hard little heads and tear off the body with
their teeth, then throw the head away, describe the flavor as sweet and nutty.
Cuy (Guinea Pig) in Peru: You eat regular pig, so why not try guinea pig? Be
aware, however, that unlike other delicacies that are disguised in soups and sauces,
cuy are served whole, with the head and all limbs firmly attached. You’ll find this dish
on menus in Lima, Cuzco, and other large cities, where it’s subject to a significant
mark-up (tourist rip-off, perhaps?). In smaller towns like Arequipa, however, it’s
much more affordable. Depending on preparation, the skin can be crispy (again, like
pork) and the meat is rich and flavorful.
Tacos de Sesos in Mexico: A mind is a terrible thing to waste, yet thousands
of cow brains are tossed aside annually, without a thought to how delicious they
could be cooked and stuffed into a soft, warm taco. Sad, isn’t it? A favorite in Mexico
for centuries, sesos have a pillowy texture and not much flavor of their own, so
they’re generally spiced up with some kind of hot salsa picante, a sprinkle of fresh
cilantro, or a squeeze of lime. Though once banned in the U.S. due to fears of mad
cow disease, tacos de sesos have staged a comeback and can sometimes be found
at discriminating taquerias north of the border.

11Spooks, Scares & Rides
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11Spooks, Scares & Rides
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AULD REEKIE TERROR TOUR

Spooks & Scares457
Auld Reekie Terror Tour
Gloom & Doom All Around
Edinburgh, Scotland
If you’re among those who prefer their history
served with a tinge of terror and a
dash of the macabre, the Auld Reekie Terror
Tour is just the thing for you. The city
of Edinburgh is famous for its underground
vaults, corridors, and buildings,
and this tour highlights the places where
torture, witchcraft, and crimes most foul
were the norm.

Edinburgh, the capital of Scotland once
known as Auld Reekie (the name translates
as “old smoky” and referred to the
smoke billowing out of coal chimneys), is
rich with history going back to the prehistoric
Stone Age settlements on the craggy
hills that loom over the town. Not all of
Edinburgh’s history, however, has been a
tale of fair maidens and gallant knights.
This is the home of Major Weir, who with
his sister was executed for witchcraft in
1670. It’s also the town that inspired Robert
Louis Stevenson’s famous novel The
Strange Case of Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde,
based on the actual life of local socialite
criminal Deacon Brodie.

There are a number of tours available,
including the Ghost and Torture Tour,
which takes visitors to a reputed witchcraft
temple still in use today. Tours last
about 75 minutes and are available during
the day and into the night. Guides on the
Terror Tour regale visitors with stories
from the Black Plague, which swept across

Scotland in the 14th century and caused
many of Edinburgh’s citizens to be quarantined
in horrific squalor. The tour, which is
lit primarily by candles to heighten the
effect, leads visitors through rooms and
corridors where ghostly paranormal activity
is reportedly high. If that doesn’t scare
you, the grisly Torture Museum might; it
features implements used to extract confessions
from witches, warlocks, prisoners,
and other undesirables.

The tour might not be for everyone—
some visitors have referred to it as
crowded and campy, with a none-toofrightening
spook tacked on to the end,
and the pub at the tour’s end is generally
considered a tourist trap. But touristy or
not, after reliving the tales of plague victims,
witches, and murderers, you may
need a drink. —ML

Auld Reekie Terror Tour, 45 Niddry
St. (&44/131/557-4700; www.auldreekie
tours.com).
WHEN TO GO: Year-round.
Edinburgh.
$$ Malmaison, 1 Tower Place (&44/
131/68-5000; www.malmaison.com).
$$$ The Witchery by the Castle, The
Royal Mile (&44/131/225-5613; www.the
witchery.com).

Previous page: The Vild-Svinet roller coaster in Denmark.

389


SPOOKS, SCARES & RIDES

Spooks & Scares 458
Dracula Tours of Transylvania
Count Me In
Romania
The long, dark shadow of history casts a
gloomy air across the Carpathian Mountains
of Romania. In a country where the
tyranny of Nicolae Ceau@escu is still a
recent memory, an even more ominous
legend has taken hold of the imagination—
a legend that, like its namesake,
refuses to die. Vlad III the Impaler, who
inspired the legend of Count Dracula, was
a murderous ruler famed for his bloody
torture and executions; impaling his victims
and displaying their bodies in public
was his favorite method of planting terror
in the minds of his numerous political
enemies. The sites where Vlad was born,
lived, and was buried are now open for
visits.

Most tours of this ruggedly beautiful
country begin and end in the capital city of
Bucharest. Dracula tours to Transylvania
(a region in west-central Romania) will usually
include sites such as the citadel of
Sighisoara, where Vlad was born, and the
Snagov Monastery, where Vlad was buried
after his assassination. Though some
tours include stops at Bran Castle, an
impressive medieval fortress, Dracula purists
know that the ruins of the castle at
Poienari are more likely to have been
Vlad’s redoubt.

Separating historical fact from Hollywood-
style vampire stories can be difficult,
and some commercial tours seem to highlight
the kitschier aspects of the Dracula


Dracula’s castle in Romania.

390


legend. Vampire-themed hotel rooms with
velvet-lined coffins, dinners with bloodwine
drinks, and costumed entertainers
driving stakes through an actor’s heart,
however amusing, might not be suited to
every visitor’s tastes. (You may have to forgive
your waiter if his plastic vampire teeth
fall into your goulash.)

None of this silliness, however, should
detract from the dramatic beauty and cultural
charms of a region that seems rooted
in the past. Quaint villages, grand cathedrals,
and vibrant cities are yours to enjoy,


EASTERN STATE PENITENTIARY

as long as you avoid the man in the black
cape with the bad teeth. —ML

Romanian National Tourist Office
(& 212/545-8484; www.romaniatourism.
com).
TOURS: Adventure Transylvania
(& 40/727/394-727; www.adventure
transylvania.com). Dracula Tour (&203/
795-4373; www.dractour.com).

WHEN TO GO: May–Oct.
Bucharest.


Spooks & Scares459
Eastern State Penitentiary
The Silent Treatment
Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, U.S.A.
Eastern State Penitentiary, which
opened in Philadelphia in 1829 (and closed
in 1971), was designed to be an enlightened
institution that would reform, not
punish, the prisoners interred there. But
the experiment went horribly wrong.
Strict solitary confinement in tiny cells, it
was believed, would allow prisoners to
reflect on their crimes, become penitent
and mend their ways; the word “penitentiary,”
in fact, originated at Eastern State.
In practice, however, the severe deprivation
of all human contact drove more than
one prisoner mad. Author Charles Dickens
visited the hulking neo-Gothic structure
and was appalled: “I hold the slow and
daily tampering with the mysteries of the
brain to be immeasurably worse than any
torture of the body,” he declared.

Located just a few blocks from Philadelphia’s
renowned Museum of Art (www.
philamuseum.org) and Fairmount Park
(www.fairmountpark.org), Eastern State
Penitentiary now gives visitors the chance
to experience the same degree of shock
and disgust that Dickens felt by taking a
tour of the 11-acre site. In addition to regular
daytime tours, limited groups are

Scare yourself stiff at a tour of Eastern State
Penitentiary.


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SPOOKS, SCARES & RIDES

allowed to visit ESP during twilight hours
and on specially scheduled winter tours.
For the truly brave at heart, Eastern State
is also the home of Terror Behind the
Walls, widely recognized as one of the
best—and most realistic—haunted
“houses” in the country. Actors portraying
inmates and guards reenact the horror
experienced inside ESP for guests during
Terror Behind the Wall’s seven-week run
each fall.

When it was opened, Eastern State was
the largest building in North America and
reportedly the most costly. Its revolutionary
approach to crime and punishment is
reflected in the building’s design; eight
spokes radiate out from a central tower,
giving prison guards unprecedented
access and visibility. Prisoners’ cells had
only the most spartan furnishings and a
small skylight known as “the eye of God.”
Entrance to the cells is gained through a
small pair of doors, intended to ensure
absolute quiet for the prisoners’ reflection.
Strict silence was so essential to the atmosphere
at ESP that guards wore socks over
their shoes to muffle their footsteps.

It wasn’t just the environment that was
severe at Eastern State. Prisoners could

Spooks & Scares 460
Museo de las Momias
Where’s My Mummy?
Guanajuato, Mexico
leave their cells only with hoods over their
heads, and punishments for violating rules
on silence and other transgressions bordered
on the medieval. Some prisoners
were forced to stand outside in freezing
weather, stripped to the waist, while water
was sprayed on them. One particularly
gruesome punishment involved an iron
clamp on the tongue that would cut deeper
into the inmate’s mouth if he moved. Were
these sadistic punishments and the macabre
atmosphere the cause of the numerous
paranormal sightings in the prison? Possibly—
but nobody’s talking. —ML

Eastern State Penitentiary, 22nd
and Fairmount Ave., Philadelphia, PA
(& 215/236-3300; www.easternstate.
org).
WHEN TO GO: Year-round.
Philadelphia International Airport (13
miles/21km).
$$$ Hotel Windsor, 1700 Benjamin
Franklin Pkwy., City Center (& 215/9815600;
www.hotelwindsor.com). $$ Alexander
Inn, 301 S. 12th St. (& 215/
923-3535; www.alexanderinn.com).


The dead rest in peace—you hope. But
Mexico is a country famous for its friendly
relationship with the deceased, and in one
of that country’s most beautiful colonial
cities, the dead have come back and are
receiving visitors by the thousands. Room
after room of mummified corpses in nearperfect
states of preservation are on view
at el Museo de las Momias (the Museum of
the Mummies) in Guanajuato. For a tingle
down your spine and a quickened pulse,
pay a visit here.

The one-of-a-kind museum is located in
a hillside underneath a cemetery in this
picturesque mining town, located in a
mountainous region of central Mexico
roughly 350km (220 miles) northwest of
Mexico City. The town itself is a tangle of
old colonial pathways, staircases, and
charming plazas. If you’re looking for the
museum (or any other specific place),
expect to spend at least a few minutes
getting directions or getting lost. There is
a city bus marked “Las Momias” that might

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INTERNATIONAL MUSEUM OF SURGICAL SCIENCE

make the trip a little easier; the bus doesn’t
go directly to the museum, but just ask the
driver to point out the street that leads
uphill to the museum.

The mummies were exhumed from the
local cemetery because of a grave tax
the city once levied on the families of the
dead. Beginning in the 1860s, families who
either moved away or were unable to pay
the tax had their deceased taken out of
the cemetery to make way for the newly
departed. Due to the arid conditions in the
region, and possibly the influence of some
gases and minerals in the gravesites’ soil,
the bodies were remarkably well-preserved.
Many are wearing all the clothes in
which they were buried; some have only
shoes or socks remaining. Infants and the
elderly alike are represented in the glasscased
exhibits. And according to local
legend, not all the dead were dearly
departed—one woman is said to have
been buried alive. The position of her arms
and the scratch marks on her face give
credence to this story.

After you return to the land of the living,
don’t miss out on Guanajuato’s other
sights. The city was once a wealthy mining
town, supplying much of Spain’s silver
during its colonial heyday, and its fortunes
are well-represented in the city’s many
18th-century villas, churches, plazas, and
ranching haciendas. A visit to the boyhood
home of artist Diego Rivera (Calle Positos
47) and the Museo del Pueblo de Guanajuato
(Calle Positos 7) round out a visit
to this quaint city. —ML

Museo de las Momias, Esplanada del
Panteon (& 52/473/732-0639). State
Tourism Office, Plaza de la Paz 14
(&52/473/732-1574).
WHEN TO GO: Year-round.


Leon/Guanajuato, Mexico.
$$ Hotel Posada Santa Fe, Jardin
Union 12 (&473/732-0084; www.posada
santafe.com). $$$ Hotel Antiguo Vapor,
Galarza 5 (& 473/732-3211; www.hotel
avapor.com).


Spooks & Scares461
International Museum of Surgical Science
A Monument to the Macabre
Chicago, Illinois, U.S.A.
The International Museum of Surgical
Science is an unintentionally macabre
shrine to medicine, with some utterly
bizarre exhibitions. This museum is both
educational and fascinating, but don’t
come here expecting state-of-the-art interactive
computer displays. This place has
more the look and feel of a Victorian curio
cabinet, and is a type of monument to the
macabre.

Not for the faint of stomach, it occupies
a historic 1917 mansion in Chicago’s
renowned Gold Coast designed by the
noted architect Howard Van Doren Shaw,
who modeled it after Le Petit Trianon at
Versailles. Displayed throughout its four

floors are surgical instruments, paintings,
and sculptures depicting the history of
surgery and healing practices in Eastern
and Western civilizations. (It’s run by the
International College of Surgeons.) The
exhibits are old-fashioned (no interactive
computer displays here), but that’s part of
the museum’s odd appeal.

You’ll look at your doctor in a whole
new way after viewing the trepanned
skulls excavated from an ancient tomb in
Peru. The accompanying tools bored
holes in patients’ skulls, a horrific practice
thought to release the evil spirits causing
their illness. (Some skulls show signs of
new bone growth, meaning that some

393


SPOOKS, SCARES & RIDES

Skulls & Bones & Catacombs

If your taste in adventure runs toward the dark side, few places will satisfy your macabre
impulses more than a visit to an old catacomb, tomb, or ossuary. Some go back to
ancient times, while others were in operation as recently as the 1970s. Because these
are often underground tours through miles of human remains, they’re not recommended
for the claustrophobic, the squeamish, or for anyone—kids or adults—who
may have nightmares as a result. Don’t say we didn’t warn you. —ML


Les Catacombes de Paris, France: After many generations, the graveyards
of Paris were filled to overflowing—literally. By the late 1700s, bodies spilling out of
many graveyards had become a public health menace, so city officials decided to
move the remains into the city’s vast underground network of tunneled quarries. For
decades, the city’s graveyards were emptied and the bones were interred in these
tunnels, which have been open to the public since 1810. The entrance to the Catacombs
is near the Denfert-Rochereau Metro stop in the Montparnasse area. After
walking through a simple museum, you’re free to wander through stacks and stacks
of dried bones and artfully arranged skulls. www.catacombes-de-paris.fr.
The Catacombs of the Capuchins, Palermo, Italy: A mysterious preservative
found here acts as a natural mummifier, maintaining human remains in a startlingly
lifelike way. The Sicilians found here are well-attired and smartly coiffed, as if
expecting visitors. Rosalia Lombaro, who was buried when she was just 2 years old,
is one resident visitors never forget. She still has all her hair tied back in a faded ribbon
and is so well preserved that she appears to be napping, giving her the nickname
“Sleeping Beauty.” Azienda Autonoma Turismo (&39/91-6058111).
The Skull Tower, Nis, Serbia: In 1809, Serbian rebels fighting the Turkish
Ottomans advanced toward Nis, only to be thwarted on Cegar Hill by the much stronger
Turkish forces. Rather than surrender, Serbian troop leader Stevan Sindelic fired
at his own gunpowder supplies; the resulting fireball killed Sindelic, his troops, and
the Turks. As a warning to other Serb rebels, the Turkish commander had the rebels’
bodies decapitated and their skulls built into the walls of a tower, with Sindelic’s skull
at the top. In 1892, after the tower deteriorated from exposure to the elements, a
chapel was constructed to enclose the tower. It remains a moving monument to the
sacrifices of war. www.ni.rs.
The Catacombs, Rome, Italy: There are dozens of catacombs in and around
Rome, but most are closed to the public. Those that allow tours are usually operated
by religious orders and have limited operating hours. The Catacombs of St. Domitilla
stand out; after entering through a sunken 4th-century church, you’ll see the
actual bones of the deceased and an impressive 2nd-century fresco of the Last Supper.
In the Catacombs of St. Sebastian, highlights include early Christian mosaics
and graffiti. The biggest, most popular, and most crowded site, the Catacombs of
St. Callixtus, has a vast network of galleries that house the crypts of 16 popes, as
well as early Christian statues and paintings. www.catacombsociety.org.

 SKULLS & BONES & CATACOMBS


Veliki Tabor, Zagorje, Croatia: Sometimes there’s a terrible price to be paid
for beauty. Just ask Veronika of Desinic, a lovely 15th-century maiden who captured
the heart of Frederich, son of Count Herman II of Celje, who resided in the castle
known as Veliki Tabor. The star-crossed lovers eloped and were married against the
wishes of the evil Count. He had Veronika tried as a witch; the judges, however, took
pity on the beautiful woman and set her free. Not one to be easily dismissed, the
furious Count had her drowned and her body bricked up inside Veliki Tabor’s pentagonal
tower. During a 1982 renovation of the castle, a woman’s skull was supposedly
discovered; it now resides in a place of honor in the castle’s chapel. Some say
the ghost of Veronika can still be heard. www.visitcroatia.net.
Choeung Ek, Cambodia: Choeung Ek is one of the sites known as the Killing
Fields, where the Khmer Rouge regime slaughtered some 17,000 people between
1975 and 1979. Over 8,800 bodies have been discovered at Choeung Ek; many of the
dead were inmates in the nearby Tuol Sleng prison, where tours are also available.
Open pits where mass graves were found are scattered around the site; the bones
of those killed here still litter the area. A tall monument, now a Buddhist stupa (or
reliquary), contains skulls carefully arranged by age and gender—it’s 17 stories high,
to remind visitors of the April 17, 1975, date the Khmer Rouge seized power.
The Catacombs of St. John, Syracuse, Italy: The catacombs of St. John,
accessed through the ruins of the Chiesa di San Giovanni, were originally developed
by the ancient Greeks as an underground aqueduct. Early Christians used it to bury
their dead because they were forbidden by the Romans from using city graveyards.
The site now contains roughly 20,000 tombs, housed in long tunnels that are honeycombed
with coffins; they’re now empty, having been looted by grave robbers long
ago of any artifacts or remains. Turismo, Via San Sebastiano 43 (&39/931-481232).
Kostnice “Bone Church,” Kutna Hora, Czech Republic: For sheer creativity,
it’s hard to match the interior design of this Gothic church. A widely used graveyard
since the Black Plague, the church cemetery had plenty of skeletal remains at
hand, and what better material to decorate the inside of the church? Apparently
Frantisek Rint, the fellow hired in 1870 to put the countless heaps of bones in order,
thought they were the perfect decorative touch to liven up his plain little church. Rint
used human bones and skulls to create, among other charms, a chandelier of bones,
necklace-like strands of skulls draped from the ceiling, a coat-of-arms—even the artist’s
signature was written in bone. www.kostnice.cz.
St. Michan’s Church, Dublin, Ireland: The limestone walls of this church’s
burial vault act as a preservative, so the bodies buried here are remarkably well
mummified. Visitors can see the remains inside four of the vault’s opened coffins;
sharp-eyed viewers will note that two of the bodies were cut into pieces before they
were put in their caskets. Rumor has it that Bram Stoker visited the site as a child,
inspiring him to write Dracula some years later. www.visitdublin.com.

SPOOKS, SCARES & RIDES

lucky headache-sufferers actually survived
the low-tech surgery.) There are also primitive
battlefield amputation kits, a working
iron-lung machine in the polio exhibit, and
oddities such as a stethoscope designed
to be transported inside a top hat. Other
attractions include an apothecary shop
and dentist’s office (ca. 1900) re-created in
a historic street exhibit, and the hyperbolically
titled Hall of Immortals, a sculpture
gallery depicting 12 historic figures in
medicine from Hippocrates to Madame
Curie. —ML

International Museum of Surgical
Science, 1524 N. Lake Shore Dr. (&312/
642-6502; www.imss.org).
WHEN TO GO: Year-round.
O’Hare International (15 miles/24km).
$$ Hotel Allegro, 171 N. Randolph
St. (& 800/643-1500; www.allegro
chicago.com).


Plenty of spine-tingling relics are on display at
the International Museum of Surgical Science in
Chicago.

Spooks & Scares 471
Winchester Mystery House
An Unsolved Mystery
San Jose, California, U.S.A.
Staircases that lead directly up to a ceiling
and stop. Doors that open onto solid walls.
A seance room with a floorless closet and
a secret passageway. A window with a
spider web design featuring 13 colored
stones, to match the 13 palm trees in the
driveway, and the 13 bathrooms, and the
13 coat hooks in the closets, and the chandeliers
with 13 lights. Even if you don’t
believe in the supernatural aura that surrounds
the Winchester Mystery House,
you can’t deny that there is something

utterly bewildering and spine-tingling about
this immense, ornate Victorian mansion.

According to legend, Sarah Winchester
was devastated by the deaths of her
daughter and her husband William. As
president of the Winchester Repeating
Arms Company, Mr. Winchester was
renowned as the man whose rifles tamed
the American West—at a cost of thousands
of lives. When his grieving widow
sought the advice of a spiritualist following
his death, she was told that the ghosts of

396


WINCHESTER MYSTERY HOUSE


The Winchester Mystery House.

those killed by his rifles would haunt her
unless she built them a home. So she built,
and built, and built, employing carpenters
and craftsmen working 24 hours a day for
38 years until she created a seven-story
monstrosity that confounds all explanation.
When she died in 1922, work immediately
stopped, so quickly that in many
cases nails were left half-pounded into
place.

The house was built around an existing
farmhouse, parts of which can still be seen
inside the rambling structure. Because
there were no blueprints, the house was
added onto in an irregular pattern until it
spread out over most of the current 41.2acre
(1.2-hectare) site. Some claim that
the confusing pattern of hallways, staircases,
and rooms were designed by Mrs.
Winchester to confuse the spirits who
might still haunt the mansion. Repeated
sightings of spirits, and of voices that
haunt the employees who work there,
have only added to the creepy atmosphere
of this uniquely bizarre landmark.

The Winchester Mystery House is
located in the heart of San Jose, surrounded
by the high-tech industries of Silicon
Valley. Tours lasting about 65 minutes
are offered year-round except for Christmas
Day, and there are a number of
options, including a behind-the-scenes
tour and—for the brave at heart—special
flashlight tours offered only during the
Halloween season and every Friday the
13th. Because of the design of the house,
not all tours are open to children or the
physically handicapped. —ML

Winchester Mystery House, 525 S.
Winchester Blvd. (&408/247-2101; www.
winchestermysteryhouse.com).
WHEN TO GO: Year-round.
San Jose.
$$$$ The Fairmont San Jose, 170 S.
Market St. (& 866/540-4493 or 408/9981900;
www.fairmont.com). $$ Moorpark
Hotel, 4241 Moorpark Blvd. (& 408/8640300;
www.jdvhotels.com).



SPOOKS, SCARES & RIDES

Spooks & Scares 472
Ypres Battlefields
In Flanders Fields, the Poppies Blow
Ypres, Belgium
In the early days of World War I, with the
German army advancing through Belgium
toward France and England, just one city
stood in their way: Ypres, an ancient city in
West Flanders that was heavily fortified
with ramparts during its reign as a medieval
trading capital. Surrounding the city
on three sides, the Germans bombarded it
relentlessly until the beleaguered city
finally fell to the invading army. But after
Ypres was captured by the Germans, the
Allied response was swift and strong.
Troops from France, England, New Zealand,
America, Australia, Canada, Senegal,
and Algeria rallied to rout the Germans
from the city’s walls. After many bloody
battles, the Allied forces eventually succeeded,
but at a horrific cost: About half a
million men lost their lives to gain just a
few miles of territory—in just one battle. It
was the single deadliest military campaign
of World War I.

Ypres (pronounced ee-pruh) is situated
in the softly rolling hills of the West Flanders
Heuvelland, or Hill Country. Because
of its out-of-the-way location, visitors
often combine a trip to the city with a visit
to Bruges or other coastal destinations.
Trains from Bruges depart hourly and are
recommended over the local buses; look
for the Dutch name of the city, Leper, on
local signage.

Tour guides are able to bring to life many
of the features of the area’s battlefields and
of the city itself. Because Ypres was

reduced to rubble following the bombardments
of World War I, many of the buildings
were entirely rebuilt after the war.
Perhaps the most famous of these is the
Cloth Hall (Lakenhalle), an opulent
reminder of the city’s wealth when it was a
center of the textile trade. Surrounding it
are many of the town’s guild houses and
mansions, which now hold cafes, hotels,
and restaurants.

Ypres isn’t all faded glory, however; the
city hosts a carefree carnival known as Kattestoet,
or Festival of the Cats. The event,
taking place every 3 years in May, celebrates
the role that cats played in ridding
the Cloth Hall of mice. When the cats themselves
became a nuisance, hundreds were
tossed from the hall’s belfry (today, stuffed
feline toys substitute for the real thing).
Bellewaerde Park (www.bellewaerde.be) is
an area amusement park with terror-inducing
rides like the Screaming Eagle, as well
as a wildlife reserve. —ML

TOURS: Visit Ypres (& 32/57/20-43-42;
www.visit-ypres.be). Over the Top Tours
(& 32/57/42-43-20; www.overthetop
tours.be).
WHEN TO GO: Year-round.
Brussels (124km/77miles).
$ Old Tom, Grote Markt 8 (& 32/
57/20-15-413; www.oldtom.be). $$ Regina,
Koning Albert I 45 (& 32/57/21-88-88;
www.hotelregina.com).

398


CHARLEVILLE CASTLE

Spooks & Scares473
Charleville Castle
Ireland’s Haunted Fortress
Tullamore, County Offaly, Ireland
Even in a land steeped in mystery and
superstition, Charleville Castle stands
out as one of the most haunting places in
all of Ireland. Paranormal teams from
around the world, including television
crews from Scariest Places on Earth and
Most Haunted, have investigated the
goings-on at the castle and come away
with reports that the place is indeed visited
by denizens of the spirit world. Perhaps
they saw the ghost of Harriet Bury,
the 8-year-old girl who fell to her death
while sliding down the banister of the castle’s
ornate stairwell. Or maybe it was the
glowing orbs of light that many local residents
claim to have seen in the castle and

on the grounds. Whatever the circumstances,
Charleville Castle remains an
eerily beautiful place and a must-see for
visitors interested in things that go bump
in the night.

Built in 1798 by Charles William Bury,
Earl of Charleville, the Gothic-style castle is
located about 97km (60 miles) west of
Dublin in one of the oldest forests left in
the British Isles, filled with the immense
oaks revered by ancient druid priests. The
castle, in fact, is reportedly built on the
site of a prehistoric druid ceremonial circle,
which may explain some of the supernatural
energy that surrounds the place.
One of the oldest and most massive oak


Spirits haunt the halls of Charleville Castle.

399


SPOOKS, SCARES & RIDES

trees on the property, the King Oak, has an
ominous legend attached to it: When one
of its branches falls, a resident of the castle
will die. Foolish superstition? In 1963,
the tree was struck by lightning and a
large branch broke off. Two weeks later,
Colonel Charles Bury, the last of the Bury
family to own the castle, suddenly died.

Even without its otherworldly reputation,
Charleville Castle would be well worth
a visit. Its exquisite limestone exterior is
marked by lofty, crenellated towers and
battlements. Hand-carved stairways, stunning
plasterwork, and a dining room
designed by William Morris, a founder of
the Arts and Crafts movement, are among
the highlights of the guided tour. And, of
course, what haunted castle would be

Spooks & Scares 474
Haunted New Orleans
Boo, Y’all!
New Orleans, Louisiana, U.S.A.
complete without a dungeon? Charleville
Castle has that, too, along with all the flickering
chandeliers and secret passageways
your fluttering heart could desire. —ML

Charleville Castle (& 0506/41581;
www.charlevillecastle.com).
WHEN TO GO: Most travelers prefer to
visit Ireland between Apr and Oct; expect
more crowds and higher prices in July and
Aug.


Dublin (97km/60 miles).
$$$ Bridge House Hotel and Leisure
Club, Tullamore (& 57/325600;
www.bridgehouse.com). $$ Days Hotel
Tullamore, Main St., Tullamore (& 63/
91136; www.dayshoteltullamore.com).


If any city can lay claim to being America’s
most haunted city, New Orleans would
have to be the one, where the dead are
buried aboveground and moss hangs
heavy in the live oak trees. Two Civil War
soldiers appear in a mansion’s upstairs
window, singing an old drinking tune.
Heavy footsteps echo in the hallway from
a man who was buried alive in the courtyard
of his crumbling villa. The sound of a
piano plays from a room where there is no
piano. A young girl appears in a mirror of a
hotel room—but she’s not in the room.
Visitors to this fabled city can see the sites
of these and other supernatural occurrences
on tours of haunted New Orleans.

There are a number of tour operators in
the Crescent City; some tours specialize in
haunted hotels and bars, other tours focus
on cemeteries, while still others traverse
the gloomy mansions and villas of the
French Quarter and the Garden District.

Tours can last from 1 hour to an entire
day, and group tours for wedding parties,
conventions, and school events can be
arranged. Most of the ghost and vampire
tours operate in the evening; cemetery
and voodoo tours are more likely to occur
during the day (cemeteries are usually
closed at night—to the living). Reservations
are often required, and it’s recommended
to call ahead to ask about
schedules, group sizes, and other specifics.
While some tour operators offer great
storytelling and historical information,
others emphasize the campier, more theatrical
side of ghouls and ghosts.

With almost 300 years of colorful history,
New Orleans is one of America’s
most unique cities, though much of her
history has been dark, turbulent, and
bloody. It was a wealthy port for most of
its early years, and much of that wealth
was derived from the slave trade. It was

400


STAR FLYER AT TIVOLI GARDENS

also the site of numerous deadly epidemics
and several devastating hurricanes and
floods. All of these contribute to the
town’s rich store of macabre tales. From
voodoo queens and mansion murder
scenes to haunted cemeteries and slave
quarters, New Orleans and her ghosts are
ready to meet you. —ML

New Orleans Metropolitan Convention
and Visitors Bureau (& 800/6726124
or 504/566-5011; www.neworleans
cvb.com).
Rides475
Star Flyer at Tivoli Gardens
Make Me a Star
Copenhagen, Denmark
TOURS: Magic Tours, LLC, 714 N. Rampart
(& 504/588-9693; www.magictours
nola.com). Haunted History Tours, 97
Fontainebleau Dr. (& 888/6-GHOSTS
[446787] or 504/861-2727; www.haunted
historytours.com).

WHEN TO GO: Year-round.
New Orleans.
$$$ Hotel Monteleone, 214 Royal
St. (& 800/535-9595 or 504/523-3341;
www.hotelmonteleone.com). $$ Le Pavillon
Hotel, 833 Poydras St. (& 800/5359095
or 504/581-3111; www.lepavillon.com).


In the middle of Copenhagen’s charming
(if schmaltzy) Tivoli Gardens is a ride that
has thrill-seekers clamoring for more: The
Star Flyer sends riders streaking through
the air at speeds up to 72kmph (45 mph)
while dangling 78m (260 ft.) above the
ground. It’s guaranteed to get the adrenaline
pumping in even the most jaded
amusement park tourist.

Tivoli Gardens is located in the center of
Copenhagen and is among its most cherished
institutions. Since opening in 1843,
millions of visitors have embraced the
park’s artfully manicured flower gardens,
Chinese tower, and musicians. When electricity
became available, Tivoli Gardens
outfitted itself with millions of light bulbs,
making it an enchanting nighttime attraction.
The wooden roller coaster—still in
operation—debuted in 1914, and The
Daemonen, the biggest roller coaster in
Denmark, joined it in 2004. The newest
ride in Tivoli Gardens is Vertigo, a flight
simulator that launches passengers
through the air at 97kmph (60 mph).


The Star Flyer is sure to please even the most
jaded amusement park tourist.

The Star Flyer is the world’s tallest
carousel tower; riders board one of 12
passenger seats that are attached to a
central star-shaped car. As the car
ascends, it rotates on its axis, causing the
12 seats to lift into the air and spin around

401


SPOOKS, SCARES & RIDES

10
1010
Haunted Houses of the American South

Perhaps no other region of America conjures up visions of ghostly apparitions like
the South. Stately old antebellum mansions, often abandoned to the ravages of time,
loom from behind moss-draped trees. The specter of Confederate soldiers, still fighting
a lost cause, adds to the gothic atmosphere. Many of these houses are now
hotels or B&Bs, making your visit easier—but no less chilling. —ML


LaLaurie Mansion, New Orleans, Louisiana: Dark goings-on at this French
Quarter mansion have been a part of New Orleans legend for years. Delphine LaLaurie,
the wealthy socialite behind these stories, was reputedly a sadist who mercilessly
beat and tortured her slaves. During a dinner party in 1834, a fire started in the
kitchen, reportedly by the slaves who were chained to the stove. That night, after
guests witnessed the sight of chained and beaten slaves, the LaLauries fled the city
in disgrace. The discovery of graves, reportedly hidden in the foundation of the
home, has done nothing to dispel the grim reputation of this most haunted house.
www.hauntedamericatours.com.


Menger Hotel, San Antonio, Texas: Teddy Roosevelt, who recruited cowboys
fresh off the Chisholm Trail to join his Rough Riders, reportedly still frequents
the bar at this ornate 1859 palace, looking for new recruits. Located next to the
Alamo, some of the soldiers who died in that famous battle still come by, wearing
their buckskins and boots. Most famously, a hotel chambermaid named Sallie White,
who was murdered by her husband at the hotel, still performs occasional duties,
delivering fresh towels to hotel guests. Now that’s service. www.mengerhotel.com.
Magnolia Manor, Bolivar, Tennessee: This elegant manor home from 1849,
owned by the same family until the 1970s, is now a B&B. Guests have reported seeing
the same apparitions. An elderly woman sits in a rocking chair in the corner,
quietly humming a tune. She also walks the hallways, carrying a lit candle. Whitey, a
white cat owned by a previous resident, slinks along hallways at night. Doors open
and close on their own, and lights switch on and off. www.magnoliamanorbolivartn.com.
Hammock House, Beaufort, North Carolina: The infamous pirate Black
Beard (also known as Edward Teach) supposedly kept a young woman against her
will in this 18th-century house, whom he hung from an oak tree in the backyard—her
screams still haunt the night air. Other incidents have darkened the reputation of this
old house. Richard Russell, who owned the home in the 1740s, tried to punish one of
his slaves, but the slave pushed him down the stairs, breaking Russell’s neck. He
occasionally returns, looking for the rebellious slave. When the Union Army occupied
Beaufort during the Civil War, three officers visiting the home disappeared, though
they can be heard stomping around the hallways. Their bones were discovered near
the back porch in 1915. www.beaufort-nc.com.
Kehoe House, Savannah, Georgia: It’s the twins that most visitors to this
charming hotel tell of seeing. The two children were playing in the chimney when

 10 HAUNTED HOUSES OF THE AMERICAN SOUTH

they were accidentally killed. Guests staying in Rooms 201 and 203 report hearing
children’s laughter and the patter of small feet running. Other guests and employees
of this 1892 inn, listed on the National Register of Historic Places, have had to contend
with doors opening and closing on their own, and the vision of a woman
dressed in white. www.kehoehouse.com.


The St. James Hotel, Selma, Alabama: There are no pets allowed in this
elegantly restored hotel, but guests keep hearing the sound of a barking dog in the
interior courtyard. Some say he’s the pet of Jesse James, the outlaw who frequented
the hotel in the 1800s, and is sometimes seen—especially in Rooms 214, 314, and
315, or at his favorite corner table. Maybe Jesse comes back looking for his other
pet, the beautiful, raven-haired Lucinda, who can still be seen strolling the hallways,
the scent of her lavender perfume wafting after her. 1222 Water Ave. &334/872-7055.
Peavey Melody Music, Meridian, Mississippi: This nondescript building
was the original home of Peavey Electronics. Shortly after it was built in 1906, a tornado
struck Meridian, killing scores of people; the victims’ bodies were stacked on
the second floor of this building, which was a funeral parlor at the time. Many of the
injured were children who died here while waiting for medical assistance. Employees
have heard running and the laughter of children on the
second floor late in the evening. www.visitmeridian.com.
Cedar Grove Inn, Vicksburg, Mississippi: The
wealthy Southern gentleman John Klein gave this
stately Greek Revival mansion to his bride Elizabeth as a
wedding gift in 1840. Guests to the inn describe smelling
the smoke from his pipe at odd intervals. After several
family graves were moved in 1919, visitors started
seeing a young girl whose grave was among those
moved. www.cedargroveinn.com.
Eliza Thompson House, Savannah, Georgia: If
you’re a light sleeper, avoid Room 132 in this lovingly
restored B&B. Guests there report hearing the gleeful laughter of children all night
long—sometimes even being pushed out of bed to join in the play. Eliza’s son James,
a confederate soldier, was killed by a horse right in front of the property, and his visage
is sometimes seen looking out the window. www.elizathompsonhouse.com.
Sturdivant Hall, Selma, Alabama: Wealthy banker John Parkman, president
of the First National Bank of Selma, owned this elegant home during the Reconstruction
period until he was arrested for cotton speculation. While trying to escape from
prison, he was killed. He still wanders the grounds of his former home, opening
doors with strong breezes on otherwise windless days, and leaving imprints on
freshly made beds. www.sturdivanthall.com.
The charming Eliza Thompson
House hosts a variety of ghosts.


403


SPOOKS, SCARES & RIDES

the tower. Not only is this a thrilling ride,
but it’s also a great way to sight-see as the
city of Copenhagen reveals itself below.
There’s more to see on the ground, too:
Live concerts featuring world-class musicians
such as Sting, the Pet Shop Boys,
and Smashing Pumpkins occur during
summer months. The amusement park’s
Concert Hall and Pantomime Theater also
host performances, plays, and classical
concerts, and there are dozens of places

Rides 486
Zero Gravity Thrill Amusement Park
One-Stop Adrenaline Shopping
Dallas, Texas, U.S.A.
to eat, drink, and relax after all your thrill
rides are over. —ML

Tivoli Gardens (& 33/75-03-38;
www.tivoli.dk).
WHEN TO GO: May–Sept.
Copenhagen.
$$$ First Hotel Vesterbro, Vesterbrogade
23–29 (& 33/78-80-00; www.
firsthotels.com). $$ Hotel Fox, Jarmer
Plads 3 (&33/13-30-00; www.hotelfox.dk).

If you’re looking for one-stop adrenaline
shopping that’s kid friendly, the Zero Gravity
Thrill Amusement Park in Dallas is the
place for you. This adventure playland promises
fun for the whole family—assuming, of
course, you have a pretty daring family.

Start off by bungee jumping from the
park’s seven-story Air Boingo tower. Next,
try the Skycoaster, which simulates hang
gliding 110 feet (34m) above the ground and
reaches speeds up to 60 mph (96kmph).
When you’re all strapped in and ready to fly,
you can pull your own ripcord and off you
go. If you’d rather not go alone, that’s fine
too. Thanks to ultra-strong steel cables and
professional hang-gliding harnesses, up to
three people can fly together at a time.

After you come down from these
heights, check out the Texas Blastoff,
which rockets you and a friend (or family
member) up into the air for 150 feet (46m).
Using four strong bungee cords attached
to two steel towers, this ride launches you
in a seat-like harness made from racing
seats. With your whole body, including
your feet, strapped in, you’ll race up
toward the sky, going from zero to 70 mph
(112kmph) in 1.2 seconds! Expect to flip,
twist, and turn along the way.

With adrenaline coursing through your
veins, you should feel free to call it a day.
But if you’re ready for one more thrill ride,
it’s time to attempt a freefall from Nothin’
but Net. You’re lifted almost 16 stories
high, just below the top of the tower, and
then dropped 100 feet (30m) into two
safety nets below. There’s no bungee cord,
no parachute, no harness—it’s just you
soaring through the air. A patented release
system ensures that you’ll fall straight on
your back, even if you try to twist or turn,
guaranteeing a smooth landing—a welcome
end to your fast-moving day. —JS

Zero Gravity Thrill Amusement
Park, 11131 Malibu Dr. (&972/484-8359;
www.gojump.com).
WHEN TO GO: Sept–May.
Dallas Fort Worth International Airport
(15 miles/24km).
$$–$$$ Hotel Palomar Dallas, 5300


E. Mockingbird Lane (& 888/253-9030;
www.hotelpalomar-dallas.com). $$ Omni
Dallas Hotel at Park West, 1590 LBJ
Fwy. (&972/869-4300; www.omnihotels.
com).
404


INTERACTIVE FLIGHT SIMULATORS

Rides487
Interactive Flight Simulators
Fly to the Space Station
Washington, D.C., U.S.A.
Would you rather test your skills at air-toair
combat in an F-4 Phantom II jet fighter,
or launch into space on a shuttle? Lucky
you—you don’t have to choose. You can
do both at the Smithsonian National Air
and Space Museum on the National Mall
in Washington, D.C. The simulation rides
are designed to fool your senses, and they
do without subjecting you to g-forces.
These rides grew out of simulations for
military applications.

If you want to fly a jet with a pal, choose
the two-person F-18 Super Hornet Experience.
After a fast training session, the
“pilot” takes off from an aircraft carrier
using a throttle to control the speed and a
joy stick to control whether the plane goes
up, down, or does 360° barrel roles.
(Empty change from your pockets before
taking this ride!) The second person on the
flight is the gunner, who releases virtual
radar-guided and heat-seeking missiles at
approaching targets.

If you’d rather be a passenger, choose
the Space Walk or Wings. On the Space
Walk you’ll be sitting in an astronaut’s
chair inside a shuttle during the launch.
You’ll get the sensation of floating gravityfree
as you fly through space until you
reach the Space Station. Once there, you’ll
get a personal tour of the inside of the station,
then suit up for an outside stroll.
Watching Wings, you’ll sit in the pilot’s
seat for a fast-paced tour of the history of
aviation by flying various planes ranging
from the Sopwith Camel of World War I, to
early bi-planes all the way through to the
F-5 Tiger jet.

If after the flight and space-flight simulators
you’re still in need of more excitement,
there are roller coaster rides, like
the Cosmic Coaster, which takes you
on a white-knuckle journey through the

cosmos. Be prepared to rock and roll, and
even scream as you “fly” through a futuristic
image of space.

Entry to the museum is free, but there is
a charge (under $10) for the simulator
rides, which are located in the West Wing
Gallery 103. After paying, you enter a
queue for the ride you’ve chosen. Most of
the rides take about 5 to 6 minutes.

You can also take these simulator rides
at the Smithsonian National Air and Space
Museum satellite at the Steven F. Udvar-
Hazy Center. This companion facility near
Washington Dulles International Airport
houses the space shuttle Enterprise, the
Lockheed SR-71 Blackbird, and other
large planes. At this facility, you can also
see the Space Walk in 3D (using 3D
glasses), which increases the sense of
being out in space. —LF

Smithsonian National Air and
Space Museum, National Mall Building,
Independence Ave. at Sixth St. SW
(& 202/633-1000; www.nasm.si.edu/
museum). Steven F. Udvar-Hazy Center,
14390 Air and Space Museum Pkwy., Chantilly,
VA (www.nasm.si.edu/UdvarHazy).
WHEN TO GO: Year-round. Closed Christmas
Day.
Ronald Reagan Washington National
(5 miles/8km). Dulles International (26
miles/42km). Baltimore-Washington International
(30 miles/48km).
$$ Embassy Suites Hotel Downtown,
1250 22nd St. NW (& 800/
EMBASSY [362-2779] or 202/8573388;
www.embassysuitesdcmetro.com).
$$$ Hilton Washington, 1919 Connecticut
Ave. NW (&800/HILTONS [445-8667]
or 202/483-3000; www.washinton.hilton.
com).

405


SPOOKS, SCARES & RIDES

Rides 488
Gilley’s Dallas
Riding El Toro
Dallas, Texas, U.S.A.
Rockin’ and rollin’ takes on new meaning
as you desperately try to hang on to the
mechanical bull that is jerking forward and
backward, and side to side. It looked like
fun when you and your friends dared each
other to try it, but now that you’re being
shaken around you’re not so sure. Whoa!
You fly off on to the blow-up mat designed
to cushion your fall. Tip from one rider:
Never try it as a twosome.

Bull riders traditionally train on mechanical
bulls, but riding these critters in bars
became a craze after the 1980 movie hit
Urban Cowboy. The original Gilley’s was a
honky-tonk bar opened by country singer
Michael Gilley and Sherwood Cryer in Pasadena,
Texas, in 1971. People flocked to
Gilley’s to ride the mechanical bull and

hang around this Texas-size western bar,
with its tin ceiling, just like characters did
in this movie’s tale of young love.

The original bar closed in the 1980s, but
in 2003 Gilley’s Dallas opened just south of
downtown. Today, brown and white
Titian, a mechanical bull with massive
horns, awaits riders who have come to
Gilley’s Showroom for the country music
performances on Friday and Saturday evenings.
Come before the shows start on a
Saturday and you may be able to get free
country dance lessons. While there’s no
food in the Showroom, the Studio Bar and
Grill is just a few steps away.

Gilley’s Dallas is a large entertainment
complex near the convention center, with
a variety of rooms and entertainment


Try your luck on the mechanical bull at the famed Gilley’s honky-tonk bar.

406


THE SLINGSHOT AT RATANGA JUNCTION

areas designed for parties and corporate
events. During private events your guests
can ride a mechanical horse and rope a
mechanical calf, participate in an armadillo
race, or ride Titian.

You’ll be on the bull for only a few minutes
(or perhaps just seconds), but Dallas
has plenty of attractions to keep visitors
busy, including a few adrenaline-inducing
ones. See


and . In addition, history
junkies will likely get a thrill from the Sixth
Floor Museum in Dealey Plaza, which
focuses on the life, death, and legacy of
President John F. Kennedy. If you’ve got
children with you, visit the Dallas World
Aquarium and Zoo (www.dwazoo.com)
Rides489
The Slingshot at Ratanga Junction
Now I’m Free, Freefallin’
Cape Town, South Africa
It even looks scary: A few slender steel
supports that rise hundreds of feet high
are the only things holding you up. You’re
then strapped into a body harness that
keeps you in a prone position while being
hoisted 10 stories above the ground. If
you’re still with us, you then pull on a rip
cord and plunge 30m (100 ft.) toward the
ground at speeds exceeding a mile a minute
and then—oh yes, there’s more—you
begin your high-speed ascent to the clear
blue skies above. And then you begin your
descent at the same breakneck speed.

The Slingshot is getting rave reviews as
one of the scariest rides at Ratanga Junction—
or anywhere. It’s one of the latest
additions to the full panoply of whiteknuckle
rides at this theme park. Located
in the Century City area of Cape Town, the
park is located just a few minutes from
downtown. Visitors should be aware that
the Slingshot is the only ride that isn’t
included in the theme park entry tickets—
an extra fee is charged.


or the Speed Zone (www.speedzone.
com/dallas), where racing go-carts, dragsters,
and more offer hair-raising excitement.
—LF

Gilley’s Dallas, 1135 S. Lamar St.
(&214/421-2021; www.gilleysdallas.com).
WHEN TO GO: Year-round.
Dallas Fort Worth International Airport
(21miles/34km).
$$–$$$ Magnolia Hotel, 1401 Commerce
St. (& 214/915-6500; www.
magnoliahoteldallas.com). $$–$$$ Sheraton
Dallas, 400 N. Olive St. (& 214/7425678;
www.sheratondallashotel.com).

The Slingshot at Ratanga Junction.

407


SPOOKS, SCARES & RIDES

11
1111
Roller Coasters

The first roller coaster must have been invented by an adrenaline junkie—who else
would design a machine that straps you into a metal cage and throws you off the
equivalent of a tall building at speeds that turn your lips blue? —ML


Steel Dragon 2000, Nagashima Spa Land Amusement Park, Mie Prefecture,
Japan: Costing over $50 million and with the longest track length of any
coaster in the world at over 2,440m (8,133 ft.), the Steel Dragon enters the elite class
of roller coasters known as “gigacoasters.” It’s also the tallest chain-lift roller coaster,
towering over the Spa Land Amusement Park at 95m (318 ft.), and its top speed is an
ear-bleeding 153kmph (95 mph). www.nagashima-onsen.co.jp.
Kingda Ka, Six Flags Great Adventure & Wild Safari, Jackson, New
Jersey, U.S.A.: At 456 feet (137m) above the ground and a top speed of 128 mph
(206kmph), Kingda Ka is a double world-record holder—for height as well as
speed—and a force to be reckoned with. The acceleration on this beast is from zero
to 128 mph (206kmph) in just 3.5 seconds. The duration of this ride, however, at only
50 seconds, may leave some visitors feeling short-changed. www.sixflags.com.
Dueling Dragons, Universal Studios, Orlando, Florida, U.S.A.: This
unique ride features two competing coasters, one themed Fire, the other Ice. At
three points during the ride, passengers come within inches of each other. Don’t
plan on staying right-side up, either. Fire, for example, has five inversions, including
two corkscrews, a vertical loop, and a couple of white-knuckle Immelmanns (a halfloop
followed by a half-twist). www.universalorlando.com.
Extremis: Drop Ride to Doom!, London, England, U.K.: You have been
tried, sentenced, and must now face the consequences for your crimes. A hangman
in a black hood awaits to administer your final punishment at this theme ride. A
noose drops in front of you, the trap door opens, and suddenly you’re freefalling
4.5m (15 ft.) in the dark. www.thedungeons.com.
The Roller Coaster at New York-New York Casino, Las Vegas, Nevada,
U.S.A.: This roller coaster takes riders (in fiberglass imitations of New York yellow
cabs) in and among the casino’s now-familiar replicas of New York City. With a drop of
144 feet (43m) and a top speed of 67 mph (107kmph), it’s not breaking any records—
except perhaps for ticket prices ($14 per rider). Some folks have complained that the
restraints are poorly designed and cause neck pain—something you might not want to
gamble on. New York–New York Hotel & Casino, 3400 Las Vegas Blvd. S. (& 702/740-6969;
www.nynyhotelcasino.com).
Vild-Svinet, BonBon-Land, Denmark: The Vild-Svinet (which translates as
“wild boar”) takes passengers on a freaky 97-degree ascent up, then tosses them
down to the ground with a steeply banked curve, a loop, a helix, and a hump that lets
riders experience zero gravity. The ride is about 1 minute long. www.bonbonland.dk.

 11 ROLLER COASTERS


Balder, Liseberg, Gothenburg, Sweden: This is a prefabricated wooden

coaster, which runs as silky-smooth as a steel coaster. It’s not an especially tall or
fast ride, clocking in with a respectable top speed of 90kmph (56 mph) and an altitude
of 35m (118 ft.). Nonetheless, fans rave about this 2-minute ride for its impressive
zero-gravity feature; riders experience the thrill of catching air 10 times during
the 1,053m-long (3,510-ft.) ride. As a result, it has twice been voted Best Wooden
Tracked Roller Coaster in the World. www.liseberg.com.


The Cyclone, Coney Island, New York, U.S.A.: This is the classic old woodie

that makes true roller coaster fans get misty-eyed. Debuting in 1927 to much fanfare,
it’s been delighting riders ever since; it’s even listed as a National Historic Landmark.
With a top speed of 60 mph (97kmph) and a height of 85 feet (26m), it’s a terrific ride.
It’s a bit aggressive, and is not afraid to knock heads during hairpin 180-degree turns.
It’s also a long, 2,640 feet (792m) of track, giving riders enough time to experience
every bit of its uneven, rough-and-tumble wooden ride. www.coneyislandcyclone.com.


Millennium Force, Cedar Point, Sandusky, Ohio, U.S.A.: This Midwestern

monster takes no prisoners, and broke 10 international roller coaster records when it
opened in 2000. Millennium Force takes riders up a 310-foot (93m) hill, then drops
them at speeds of up to 92 mph (148kmph). There’s airtime galore, and at 6,595 feet
(1,979m), it’s a sweet, long ride. The ride was also the first to use a magnetic braking
system, and first in the U.S. with a cable lift system. www.cedarpoint.com.


Katun, Mirabilandia, Ravenna, Italy: This 49m-tall (164-ft.) inverted steel

roller coaster thrills riders with a vertical loop, a cobra roll, a zero-gravity roll, and a
pair of corkscrews. Six inversions total mean you’re
upside down almost as long as right-side up; add to that
a ride of almost 1,200m (4,000 ft.), and you’ll know the
reasons the Mayan-themed Katun is considered one of
Europe’s best rides. www.mirabilandia.it.


The Legend, Holiday World, Santa Claus,
Indiana, U.S.A.: This record-breaking wood-and-steel
hybrid roller coaster has won several awards. It has the
most air-time of any wooden coaster (a total of 24.2
secs.) and, with three wicked 90-degree turns, it’s a
chiropractor’s dream. It has eight dives into dark, cool
underground tunnels (another world record), making
this dark-light-dark-light experience a thrill for everyone.
Its impressive track length (6,422 ft./1,927m) and a
top speed of 67 mph (109kmph) keep speed junkies
coming back for more. The park is open from early May

The Legend is a rough ride, but

to mid–October. www.holidayworld.com.

wooden-coaster enthusiasts
swear by it.

409


SPOOKS, SCARES & RIDES

If you’re a hard-core adrenaline junkie
and need more, the park has plenty to
offer. Some visitors say the Cobra is even
more terrifying than the Slingshot: It’s a
roller coaster that drops you at four times
the force of gravity. The Tarantula has two
giant arms that lift riders almost five stories
high before dropping them in a downward
spiral to the ground. For your
cool-down rides, you might want to chill
out on watery Monkey Falls, an immense
log flume ride, or Crocodile Gorge, where
just about everyone is guaranteed to get
soaked. Add to this the park’s numerous

restaurants and live entertainment, and
you have a full day of fun. —ML

Ratanga Junction (&0861/200-300;
www.ratanga.co.za).
WHEN TO GO: Check website for park
schedule.


Cape Town.
$$$ Kensington Place, 38 Kensington
Crescent, Cape Town (& 021/424-4744;
www.kensingtonplace.co.za). $$ De Waterkant
Village, 1 Loader St., Cape Town
(&021/409-2500; www.dewaterkant.com).


.


Asia


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Los Angeles Fullerton
San Diego
Joshua Tree
National Park
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Angels Camp
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C A N
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(see inset below)
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Africa


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Lake Victoria
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S
T
R
A
L
I
A
NEW ZEALANDTASMANIA
GreatAustralianBight
INDIANOCEAN
BassStrait
TASMAN
SEA
GreatBarrierReef
SOUTHERNOCEAN
CORALSEA
GREATDIVIDINGRANGE
HawkesBay
Melbourne
SydneyKatoomba
BellsBeach
Warrnambool
Perth
DarwinAlice Springs
Birdsville
WhitsundayIslands
Bellarat
Milford Sound
QueenstownMotuekaTaihape
RotoruaAucklandWaihekeIsland
500 mi00
500 km

418
40
40
0 1000 mi
0 1000 km
N
C a r i b b e a n S e a
A T L A N T I C
O C E A N
P A C I F I C
O C E A N
S c o t i a
S e a
G u l f
o f Me x i c o
Virgin
Islands
Turks &
Caicos Islands
Bahama
Islands
Cayman
Islands
Bermuda
Galapagos Is.
Mexico City
Guanajuato
Acapulco
Easter Is.
Isla Navarino
Buenos Aires
Rio de
Janeiro
Paraty
Ceara
Atacama Desert
Panama
City
Bonaire Is.
Malpelo Is.
ARGENTINA
URUGUAY
FALKLAND/MALVINAS
ISLANDS
SOUTH GEORGIA
CHILE PARAGUAY
BOLIVIA
PERU
BRAZIL
ECUADOR
COLOMBIA
VENEZUELA
GUYANA FRENCH
GUIANA
SURINAM
TRINIDAD
& TOBAGO
PANAMA
COSTA
RICA
BELIZE
CUBA
HONDURAS
JAMAICA
HAITI
DOMINICAN
REPUBLIC
PUERTO
RICO
NICARAGUA
GUATEMALA
MEXICO
UNITED STATES
OF AMERICA
OCEAN
OCEAN
M e EL SALVADOR
Leon
San Jose
Monteverde
Cloud Forest
Otavalo
Iquitos
Cuzco
LaPaz
Santa Cruz
Portillo
Mendoza
South America

Canada


U.S.A.
GREENLAND
CANADAUSABanffCanmoreWhistlerSquamishNanaimoCalgaryLac la BicheJasperNationalParkTorontoQuebec CityOttawa RiverLakeMichigan
H
u
ds
onBa
y
Gulf ofSt. Lawrenc
LakeSuperior
Lake
Ontario
Lake
Erie
LakeHuron
LakeWinnipeg
LakeAthabasca
Great SlaveLake
Great BearLake
YUKONBRITISHCOLUMBIA
ALBERTASASKATCHEWAN
MANITOBAONTARIO
QUEBEC
NEWBRUNSWICK
NOVASCOTI
NEWFOUNAND
LABRPRINCI
NANAVUTNORTHWEST
TERRITORIES
U.S.A.
GREENLAND
C
A
N
A
D
A
U
S
A
BanffCanmore
WhistlerSquamishNanaimo
CalgaryLac la Biche
JasperNationalPark
TorontoQuebec CityOttawa River
LakeMichiganHudsonBay
Labrador
SeaATLANTICOCEAN
Gulf
ofSt.
Lawrence
LakeSuperior
LakeOntario
LakeErie
LakeHuron
LakeWinnipeg
LakeAthabascaGreat
SlaveLake
Great
BearLake
YUKONBRITISHCOLUMBIA
ALBERTA
SASKATCHEWAN
MANITOBA
ONTARIO
QUEBEC
NEW
BRUNSWICK
NOVASCOTIANEWFOUNDLANDAND LABRADORPRINCE EDWARD
ISLAND
NANAVUTNORTHWEST TERRITORIES
500 mi00
500 km
N
CanadianRockiesCanadianRockies

Indexes



Geographical Index


Africa
The Banger Rally, 295–296
Zambezi River canoe trips, 347–348

Alabama
St. James Hotel, 403
Sturdivant Hall, 403

Alaska
Arctic National Wildlife Refuge,
354–355
bear watching in Katmai National Park,

355–356
canopy tours (ziplining), 35
heli-skiing, 138–139
Iditarod, 256–257
kayaking, 80


Antarctica
emperor penguins, 360–361
sailing to, 72–73
ski touring, 144–145
Ultra Race, 257–258

Argentina
canopy tours (ziplining), 35
dancing tango, 318–319
Earthwatch trips, 217
football (soccer) match, 317–318
hiking Perito Moreno glacier, 109
horseback riding, 209–210
motorcycling on Route 40, 229–230
sailing to Antarctica, 72–73

Arizona
cliff jumping, 55
covert ops training camp, 237
hot-air ballooning, 14
Wayne Gretzky Hockey Fantasy Camp,

251–252
whitewater rafting, 84


Australia
Birdsville races, 291–292
camel racing, 363–364
canyoning in the Blue Mountains,

164–165

Emirates Melbourne Cup, 288
gold panning, 368
The Great Ocean Road, 224–226
jet boating, 77
Maria Island, 352–353
sailing, 75–76
scuba diving and snorkeling, 39–40
surfing, 105
swimming with crocodiles, 325–326
Sydney Harbour BridgeClimb, 301–302

Austria
cliff diving and cliff jumping, 54
snowboarding, 147

The Bahamas
diving with sharks, 330
mini-subs, 44–45

Bali
bungee jumping, 27
Belgium
Ypres Battlefields, 398

Belize
caving, 165–166
snorkeling, 326–327

Bermuda
wreck diving, 48–49
Bhutan
trekking, 210–211
Bolivia
biking, 173–174
Bonaire
night diving, 50–51
Botswana
horseback safari, 221–222

Brazil
Bloco da Lama Mud Carnival, 278
Earthwatch trips, 217
hang gliding, 32–33
kiteboarding, 96

British Virgin Islands
sailing, 65–66


GEOGRAPHICAL INDEX

California
Alcatraz Challenge, 266–267
Bay to Breakers race, 273–274
biking the Golden Gate Bridge,

177–178
biplane flights, 5–6
catamaran sailing, 59–60
Channel Islands National Marine


Sanctuary, 217
cliff diving, 55
Congo Camp, 240
Death Ride, 260–261
Gyoza Eating Championship, 299
hot-air ballooning, 15
Jim Gibson’s Motocross Training Camp,

243
Moaning Cavern, 150–151
mountain biking, 181
rock climbing, 159–161, 246
skimboarding, 92–93
skydiving, 20
snowboarding, 146
surfing, 104
whitewater rafting, 85
Winchester Mystery House, 396–397
World Deep-Fried Asparagus Eating

Championship, 299
The X Games, 280–281


Cambodia
Botum Sakor National Park, 216
Choeung Ek, 395
eating fried spiders, 386

Canada
Aurora Borealis, 188
Auyuittuq National Park, 130–131
bungee jumping, 26
canopy tours (ziplining), 34
CN Tower, 310
heli-hiking to a via ferrata, 125–126
heli-skiing, 138
ice climbing in Canmore, 156–157
ice climbing Maligne Canyon, 153–154
kayaking with orcas, 361–362
MacKenzie River ice road, 227–228
Millennium Skate Park, 307–308
Nanaimo World Championship Bathtub

Race, 274
Niagara Falls, 81
Squamish Days Logger Sports Festival,

279
tobogganing Les Glissades de la
Terrace, 133–134
Winter Speed Festival, 285–286


Canary Islands
mountain biking, 180
The Cayman Islands
Stingray City scuba dive, 332–333
Chile
Easter Island archaeological expedi


tion, 183–184
Isla Navarino, 123–124
snowboarding, 147
Valle de la Luna, 208–209


China
biking Sichuan Province, 178–179
bull penis, 387
Cheung Chau Bun Climbing Festival,

279
Shanghai World Financial Center, 311
Victoria Peak, 310
Water Splashing Festival, 271–272

Colombia
Gorgona island, 339–340
scuba diving, 52–53

Colorado
alligator wrestling lessons, 236
backcountry skiing, 136–137
cattle ranch, 191–192
cliff jumping, 55
climbing, 157–158
Dig This, 372–373
diving in Denver Aquarium, 335–336
four-wheel drives, 231–232
Frozen Dead Guy Days Festival,

373–374
Great Divide Race, 258–259
hang gliding, 30–31
heli-skiing, 139
mountain biking, 181
Red Rocks Amphitheatre, 310
riverboarding, 95
snowboarding, 146–147
TransRockies Run, 265–266
whitewater rafting, 85
Woodward at Copper, 246–247
The X Games, 280–281


Costa Rica
bungee jumping, 27
canopy tours (ziplining), 34
canyoning, 163–164
Carara Rainforest, 217
night hiking, 124–125
surfing, 105
volunteer travel, 216–217
whitewater rafting, 85


INDEX

Crete
hiking Samaria Gorge, 117–118

Croatia
Veliki Tabor, 395
whitewater rafting, 84

Cuba
deep sea fishing, 100
rock climbing, 161

Czech Republic
Kostnice “Bone Church,” 395

Denmark
roller coaster, 408
Star Flyer at Tivoli Gardens, 401, 404

Dominican Republic
kiteboarding, 96
swimming with humpback whales,

328–329

Ecuador
bull running, 379–380
mountain biking on the Galapagos

Islands, 180
snorkeling with sea lions, 333–334

Egypt
desert sailing, 202–203
hot-air ballooning, 15

El Salvador
biking and watersports, 179

England
The Banger Rally, 295–296
Bottle Kicking Festival, 277
Devon Barrel Burning, 378–379
Gloucestershire cheese rolling race,

366
Great Knaresborough Bed Race,


380–381
horse races, 288
London Eye, 309
Motocross Grand Prix, 281–282
Rat Race, 289
roller coaster, 408
Tough Guy Race, 290–291
waveskiing, 86–87
White Air Extreme Sports Festival,

292–293

Faroe Islands
birding and deep-sea fishing, 223–224

Fiji
snorkeling and diving, 42–43
surfing, 105

Finland
Air Guitar World Championship, 370–371
Arctic icebreaker, 74–75
The World Wife Carrying Champion


ship, 270

Florida
Jungala at Busch Gardens, 336–337
roller coaster, 408
skydiving, 17–18
space shuttle lift-off, 192–193
swimming with manatees, 327–328

France
biking, 174
bungee jumping, 27
cable car rides, 28–29
The Eiffel Tower, 311
Icarus Cup, 284
ice climbing in the Alps, 155
Les Catacombes de Paris, 394
Prix de L’Arc de Triomphe, 288
sandboarding, 199
snowboarding, 147

French Polynesia
riding the riptide, 103

Galapagos Islands
mountain biking, 180
snorkeling with sea lions, 333–334

Georgia
Eliza Thompson House, 403
Kehoe House, 402–403

Germany
Wasserschlacts street food fight,
383–384
Ghana
canopy tours (ziplining), 33, 36
Greece
yacht sailing, 61–62

Greenland
dog-sledding, 358
heli-skiing, 139

Guam
skydiving, 21
submarine tours, 43–44

Hawaii
biking, 176–177
canopy tours (ziplining), 34–35
Congo Camp, 240
helicopter tours, 9–11
hiking Waimea Canyon, 112–114
kiteboarding, 97
Molokai Mule Ride, 185–186


GEOGRAPHICAL INDEX

mountain tubing, 197
night diving with manta rays, 324–325
outrigger canoes, 73–74
skydiving, 20
surfing, 104, 105
Zodiac boats, 79–80

Hong Kong
Victoria Peak, 310

Iceland
boating and hiking, 69–70
eating hakarl, 386
exploring the coast, 213–214

Idaho
Great Divide Race, 258–259
snowkiting, 137, 140

Illinois
International Museum of Surgical
Science, 393, 396
Jalapeno Eating Contest, 298

India
canopy tours (ziplining), 34
Crocodile Conservation Center, 216
Hindu Festival of Color (Holi), 377–378
Rickshaw Run, 293–294
tiger safaris, 346

Indiana
roller coaster, 409

Ireland
Charleville Castle, 399–400
Cliffs of Moher, 186–188
coal mines, 182
St. Michan’s Church, 395
surfing, 105

Israel
hiking Masada National Park, 119–120
parasailing, 87–88

Italy
Amalfi Drive, 226–227
Candle Race, 376–377
The Catacombs (Rome), 394
Catacombs of St. John (Syracuse), 395
Catacombs of the Capuchins

(Palermo), 394
Ivrea Orange Battle, 375
mountain biking, 180
Palio horse race, 286–287
roller coaster, 409
snowboarding, 147
via ferrate in the Dolomites, 152–153

Jackson Hole
heli-skiing, 139

Jamaica
bobsledding through the rainforest,
198

Japan
climbing Mount Fuji, 110–111
fugu eating, 386
hot-air ballooning, 15
roller coaster, 408
snowboarding, 147

Kentucky
horse races, 288
Mammoth Cave Wild Cave Tour,

166–167

Kenya
scuba diving, 49–50
wildebeest migration, 218–219

Louisiana
haunted New Orleans, 400–401
LaLaurie Mansion, 402
Mardi Gras and Jazz, 306–307
roller girls running of the bulls, 381–382
World Grits Eating Championship, 299

Macau
bungee jumping, 27
Macau Tower Convention and Enter


tainment Center, 311
Maine
kayaking, 66–67

Malaysia
durian, 386–387
Petrona Towers, 311
trekking the Taman Negara rainforest,

212–213
The Maldives
watersports, 88–89
Mali
trekking in the Dogon Country,
211–212
Maryland
Preakness, 288
Massachusetts
Greasy Pole Competition, 279
Maui
cliff jumping, 55
Mexico
Baja California off-road adventures,

190
cenote and cave diving, 53, 56
cliff diving and cliff jumping, 54
diving with giant squid, 331



INDEX

Mexico (cont.)
drinking pulque, 386
kayaking, 56–57
monarch butterflies, 334–335
motorcycle adventures, 228–229
Museo de las Momias, 392–393
spearfishing, 102
sportfishing, 101
tacos de sesos, 387
wrestling matches, 304–305

Michigan
kiteboarding, 97
snowmobiling and mountain sledding,

232–233
Micronesia
wreck diving, 47–48
Minnesota
snowmobiling and bicycling, 233–234

Mississippi
Cedar Grove Inn, 403
HALO parachuting, 22–23
Peavey Melody Music, 403

Monaco
casino, 320
Mongolia
camel trekking, 359–360

Montana
Great Divide Race, 258–259
heli-skiing, 139
skydiving, 21
snowboarding, 146

Morocco
Atlas Mountains, 207–208
Marathon of the Sands, 259–260
Marrakech markets, 314–315
surfing, 105

Myanmar (Burma)
hot-air ballooning, 15

Namibia
Earthwatch trips, 217

Nepal
heli-cycling, 7–8
heli-skiing, 138
Mount Everest helicopter tours, 11
Rickshaw Run, 293–294
swinging (bungee jumping), 24
trekking to Mt. Everest Base Camp,

111–112

The Netherlands
dyke jumping, 200
mud flat hiking, 203–204

Nevada
Best in the West Nugget World Rib Eat


ing Championship, 299
heli-skiing, 138
high-stakes gambling, 303–304
indoor skydiving, 18–19
kayaking, 60–61
Michael Jordan Flight School, 242
roller coaster, 408
StuntWorld Action Camp, 248
Thunderdome Cage Battle, 272–273

New Guinea
wreck diving, 45–47

New Hampshire
cross-country skiing, 135–136
the White Mountains, 128–130

New Jersey
roller coaster, 408

New Mexico
cowgirl camp, 238
Great Divide Race, 258–259
horseback riding, 340–341
Virgin Galactic, 3–4

New York City
Coney Island Polar Bear Club, 305–306
Empire State Building Run Up, 255–256
game show contestant, 319–320
Nathan’s Hot Dog Eating Contest, 298
roller coaster, 409
swimming around Manhattan, 91–92
Top of the Rock, 311
Trapeze School, 313–314

New York State
Idiotarod, 269
Niagara Falls, 81–82
rock climbing, 158–159
skeleton and bobsledding, 134–135
skydiving, 21
Survival Skills Weekend, 248–249

New Zealand
bungee jumping, 26
canopy tours (ziplining), 35
helicopter flight-seeing, 8–9
heli-skiing, 138
jet boating, 78–79
parachuting, 20
Shotover Canyon Swing, 16–17
skiing the Tasman Glacier, 132–133
SkyWalk, 25, 28
white water sledging, 98
zorbing, 200–201


Nicaragua
surfing, 106–107
volcano surfing, 196

North Carolina
canopy tours (ziplining), 35
Hammock House, 402
hang gliding, 29–30
kiteboarding, 97
snowtubing, 143–144

North Dakota
biking the Maah Daah Hey Trail,
175–176
Norway
killer whale safari, 342–343

Ohio
roller coaster, 409
Oman
touring Musandam Peninsula by dhow,
71

Oregon
cliff jumping, 55
climbing Mount St. Helens, 118–119
hiking and backpacking, 127–128
kiteboarding, 97
Oregon Dunes National Recreation

Area., 201–202
skydiving, 21
windsurfing the Columbia River Gorge,

94–95

Panama
birding, 222–223

Papua New Guinea
eating sago worms, 387
wreck diving, 45–47

Pennsylvania
Civil War reenactment, 384–385
Eastern State Penitentiary, 391–392
the Wing Bowl, 298

Peru
cuy (guinea pig), 387
giant condors, 350–352
hot-air ballooning, 14
Inca Trail to Machu Picchu, 122–123
river boating along the Amazon, 215,

218
whitewater rafting, 84
The Philippines
snorkeling, 38–39
Portugal
kayaking, 82–83

GEOGRAPHICAL INDEX

Puerto Rico
kayaking, 68–69

Romania
Dracula tours of Transylvania, 390–391
volunteer trips, 217

Russia
climbing Mount Elbrus, 149–150
ice diving, 41
MiG flights, 2–3
Wrangel Island, 353–354

Rwanda
gorilla safaris, 343–344

Scotland
Auld Reekie Terror Tour, 389
kayaking, 62–63
Rat Race, 289
whale-watching, 348–349

Serbia
The Skull Tower, 394

South Africa
abseiling, 145, 148–149
bungee jumping, 26
diving with sharks, 323
kayaking, 58–59
ostrich racing, 362–363
Seal Island, 349–350
The Slingshot at Ratanga Junction,

407, 410
surfing, 104
Table Mountain, 310
Thunder City fighter flights, 4–5
Tsitsikamma Coastal National Park, 99
windsurfing, 93–94


South Dakota
Mammoth Site, 184–185
Primal Quest, 264–265

Spain
Baby Jumping Festival, 371–372
caving, 169–170
Haro Wine Battle, 369
kiteboarding, 96
Running of the Bulls, 302–303
skydiving, 21
tomato food fight, 367

St Lucia
kiteboarding, 96–97

Sweden
heli-skiing, 139
reindeer migration, 219–220
roller coaster, 409


INDEX

Switzerland
bungee jumping, 26
cliff diving and cliff jumping, 54
The Eiger, 13, 16
hang gliding, 31–32
hot-air ballooning, 14
ice climbing, 151–152
parachuting, 20
skydiving, 20–21

Tanzania
climbing Mount Kilimanjaro, 121
hot-air ballooning, 14
Roadmonkey trips, 216

Tennessee
cave tours, 170–171
Krystal Square Off, 299
Magnolia Manor, 402

Texas
adventure races, 268–269
canopy tours (ziplining), 35
Frio bat cave, 167–168
Gilley’s Dallas, 406–407
grape stomping, 204–205
Jalapeno Eating Contest, 298
Marfa lights, 189
Menger Hotel, 402
mountain biking, 181
The Texas King, 298
Zero Gravity Thrill Amusement Park, 404

Thailand
canopy tours (ziplining), 34
kayaking, 63–64
rats, 387

Tunisia
camel trekking in the Sahara, 220–221

Turkey
hot-air ballooning, 14
Kirkinpar wrestling festival, 283–284
mountain biking, 180

Uganda
gorillas, 216
whitewater rafting, 84

United States. See also specific states
bull riding, 250–251
Doug Foley’s Drag Racing School, 239
fire dancing boot camp, 240–241
motorcycle adventures, 228–229
music festivals, 282–283
overnights at museums, 316–317
Richard Petty Driving Experience, 244
Sierra Club outings, 217

state fairs, 298–299
tornado chasing, 249–250
Zero-G Experience, 12–13


Utah
canyoneering in Grand Staircase/

Escalante, 162–163
cliff jumping, 55
Comet bobsledding, 142–143
heli-skiing, 139
hiking Bryce Canyon, 114–115
mountain biking, 180
Park City, 131–132


Venezuela
piranha fishing, 337–338

Vermont
cliff diving, 54–55
Death Race, 294–295
free-sledding, 141
jazz camp, 252

Vietnam
kiteboarding, 96
motorbike tours, 230–231
mountain biking, 181

Virginia
grass-skiing, 194

Wales
coasteering, 89–90
Man versus Horse Marathon, 261–263
mountain biking, 181
Race the Train, 263–264
World Bog Snorkeling Championships,

276
Washington, D.C.
interactive flight simulators, 405

Washington state
bungee jumping, 27
hiking Mount Rainier, 115–116
windsurfing the Columbia River Gorge,

94–95

West Virginia
BASE jumping, 19, 22
Irish road bowling, 382–383
whitewater rafting, 85

Worldwide
AcroYoga, 190–191
Dinner in the Sky, 312
Global Scavenger Hunt, 296–297
kiteboarding, 97
mountainboarding, 194
parkour, 253
Rock ‘n’ Roll Fantasy Camp, 244–245
SwimTrek, 90–91


ALPHABETICAL INDEX

Wyoming Zambia
Great Divide Race, 258–259 whitewater rafting, 85
hot-air ballooning, 15 Zimbabwe
snowboarding, 146 bungee jumping, 26
whitewater rafting, 84 lion safaris, 344–345
wolves in Yellowstone, 357 whitewater rafting, 85
working ranch, 216


Alphabetical Index


Abel Tasman National
Park, 20

Abseiling, Table Mountain,
145, 148–149

Acadia National Park,
66–67

AcroYoga, 190–191

Actun Tunichil Muknal,
165–166

Adventure Cat Sailing
Charters, 60

Adventure races, 268–269

Adventures Network International
(ANI), 145

Air Guitar World Championship,
370–371

Airtime Above, 31

Air tours. See Helicopter
tours

Akshayuk Pass, 131

Alcatraz Challenge,
266–267

Alligator wrestling
lessons, 236

All Points West Music and
Arts Festival, 282

All Tomorrow’s Parties,

The Alps (Switzerland), 14
hang gliding, 31–32
ice climbing in, 155

Amalfi Drive, 226–227

Amazon River, boating on
the, 215, 217

American Museum of
Natural History, 316
Andaman Sea, kayaking
in, 63–64
Antarctica, sailing from
Argentina to, 72–73
Antarctica Ultra Race,

257–258
Ape Cave, 119
Appalachian Mountain

Club, 135–136
Apurimac River, 84
Aquariums, diving in,

335–336
Archaeological expedition,

Easter Island, 183–184
Arctic icebreaker, 74–75
Arctic National Wildlife

Refuge, 354–355
Arctic wildlife, 353–355
Arigna Mines, 182
Arkansas River, 95
Asgard, Mount, 130
Aspen, riverboarding, 95
Atacama Desert, 208–209
Auld Reekie Terror Tour,

389
Aurora Borealis, 188
Auyuittuq National Park,

130–131
Avoriaz, 147
Azau, 149–150

Baby jumping festival,
371–372
Backcountry skiing,

136–137
Bacuit Bay, 38
Baffin Island, 130–131
Bagan, 15
Baja California

diving with giant squid,

331
kayaking, 56–57
off-road adventures,

190
spearfishing, 102
Bandhavgarh National

Park, 346
Banff, 125–126
The Banger Rally, 295–296
Bareboating, 65–66
Barrel burning, 378–379
BASE jumping, 19, 22
Basketball, Michael Jordan

Flight School, 242
Bat cave, Frio, 167–168
Bathtub race, 274–275
Battleship New Jersey,

316–317
Bay to Breakers race,

273–274
Bear watching, 355–356
Beaver Brook Trail, 128
Bed Race, Great Knares


borough, 380–381
Bells Beach, 105


INDEX

Berlin, Wasserschlacts
street food fight,
383–384

Best in the West Nugget
World Rib Eating Championship,
299

Betty’s Bay, 58
Bhote Kosi River, 24
Big Sky, 146
Biking and mountain

biking, 173–181
Bass Lake, California,


181
Cappadocia, Turkey, 180
Dalat Highlands, 181
El Salvador, 179
Galapagos Islands, 180
Golden Gate Bridge,

177–178
La Palma, Canary
Islands, 180
La Paz to Coroico,
173–174
L’Etape du Tour de
France, 174
Maah Daah Hey Trail,

175–176
Oahu, 176–177
Paul Bunyan Trail,


233–234
Pearl Pass in Colorado,

181
Piemonte, Italy, 180
Sichuan Province,

178–179
Texas Hill Country, 181
Utah, 180
Wales, 181
The X Games, 280–281

Biplane flights, 5–6

Birding
condors, 350–352
Mykines, 223–224
Panama, 222–223

Birdsville races, 291–292
Bloco da Lama Mud

Carnival, 278
Bloukrans Bridge, 26
The Blue Mountains

(Australia), 164–165

Boating (boat rentals).
See also Canoeing; Jetboating
and jet-boat
tours; Kayaking; Sailing;
White-water rafting

Amazon River, 215, 217
bareboating in Tortola,
65–66
Zodiac boats, 79–80

Boat tours and cruises.
See also Jet-boating and
jet-boat tours

Alaskan glaciers, 80–81
Niagara Falls, 81–82
Bobsledding, 134–135,
142–143, 198
Bonaire National Marine

Park, 51
BonBon-Land, 408
Bonnaroo, 282
Botum Sakor National

Park, 216
Boulder’s Beach, 58
Brainerd, 233–234
Bridge Day, 19, 22
British Columbia, 138
Bryce Canyon National

Park, 114–115
Bryce Resort, 194
Buenos Aires

dancing tango in,
318–319
football (soccer) match

in, 317–318
Bull penis, eating, 387
Bull riding, 250–251
Bull running

Ecuador, 379–380
roller girls, 381
Spain, 302–303


Bun Climbing Festival, 279
Burning Man festival,
272–273
Busch Gardens, Jungala at,
336–337

Cabarete, 96
Cable car rides, 28–29
Cabo San Lucas, sportfish


ing off, 101
Calamianes Group of
Islands, 38

Calaveras Big Trees State
Park, 151
California Death Ride,

260–261
Camel racing, 363–364
Camel trekking in Mongo


lia, 359–360
Camel trekking in the
Sahara, 220–221
Camps and schools,
236–253
alligator wrestling

lessons, 236
bull riding, 250–251
Congo Camp, 240
covert ops training

camp, 237
Cowgirl Camp, 238
Doug Foley’s Drag

Racing School, 239
fire dancing boot camp,

240–241
Jazz Vermont, 252
Jim Gibson’s Motocross

Training Camp, 243
Michael Jordan Flight

School, 242
parkour, 253
Richard Petty Driving

Experience, 244
rock climbing camp,
246
Rock ‘n’ Roll Fantasy
Camp, 244–245
StuntWorld Action
Camp, 248
Survival Skills Weekend,
248–249
tornado chasing,
249–250
Woodward at Copper,
246–247
Canadian Rockies, 138,

156
Candle Race, 376–377
Canoeing

with hippos, 347–348
outrigger canoeing in
Hawaii, 73–74

Canopy tours (zip-line
tours), 33–36, 99, 213,
215, 222

Park City, 142


ALPHABETICAL INDEX

Canyoning (canyoneering)
the Blue Mountains,

164–165
Costa Rica, 163–164
Grand Staircase/

Escalante National

Monument, 162–163
Canyon swings, 16–17, 24
Cape Otway Centre for

Conservation Ecology,
225
Cape Point, kayaking to,
58–59

Cape Town
abseiling, 145, 148–149
The Slingshot at

Ratanga Junction, 407,

410
views, 310
windsurfing, 93–94

Cappadocia, 14, 180
Carara Rainforest, 217
Carnaval de Quebec, 134
Casinos

Las Vegas, 303–304

Monte Carlo, 320–321
Catacombes de Paris, 394
Catacombs, 394–395
The Catacombs (Rome),

394
Catacombs of S(ain}t.
Callixtus, 394
Catacombs of S(ain}t.
Domitilla, 394
Catacombs of S(ain}t.
John, 395
Catacombs of S(ain}t.
Sebastian, 394
Catacombs of the

Capuchins, 394
Catamaran sailing, 59–60
Caves and caving

Cayo District, 165–166
diving, 169–170
Frio bat cave, 167–168
Mallorca (Majorca),

169–170
Mammoth Cave,
166–167


Tennessee, 170
Ceara, 96
Cerro Negro, volcano surf


ing, 196

Chamonix, 155
Channel Islands National

Marine Sanctuary, 217
Charleville Castle, 399
Chattanooga, 170–171
Cheetah Conservation

Fund, 217
Cheung Chau Bun Climb


ing Festival, 279
Choeung Ek, 395
Chomolhari, 210
Chugach Mountains,

138–139
Civil War reenactment,
384–385
Cliff diving and jumping,

54–55
Cliffs of Moher, 186–188
Clifton Beach, 58
Climbing and rappelling,

145–161
Colorado 14ers,


157–158
Cuba, 161
ice climbing, 151–157
Jbel Toubkal, 207–208
Joshua Tree National

Park, 159–161
Moaning Caverns,


150–151
Mount Elbrus, 149–150
Mount Fuji, 110–111
Mount Kilimanjaro, 121
Mount S(ain}t. Helens,

118–119
Shawangunk Ridge (the

Gunks), 158–159
CN Tower, 310
Coal mines of Arigna, 182
Coasteering, 89–90
Cod Hole, 40
Colorado Cattle Company,

191–192
Columbia River Gorge
hiking and backpacking,
127–128
windsurfing, 94–95
Comet bobsledding,

142–143
Condors, 350–352
Coney Island

The Cyclone, 409

Nathan’s Hot Dog Eating
Contest, 298
Polar Bear Club,

305–306
Congo Camp, 240
Copenhagen, Tivoli

Gardens, 401, 404
Coral Beach Nature

Reserve, 88
Cornwall, 86–87
Coron Bay, 38
Coronet Peak Skifield, 78
Covert ops training camp,

237
Cowgirl Camp, 238
Crested Butte, 146
Crested Butte Mountain

Resort, 136–137
Cristobal Colon (wreck
dive), 49

Crocodile Conservation
Center (Chennai, India),
216

Crocodiles, swimming

with, 325–326
Crocosaurus Cove, 325
Cross-country skiing,

White Mountains,

135–136
Crystal River, 327
Crystal River National

Wildlife Refuge, 327–328
Cueva de Arta, 169
Cuevas del Drach, 169
Cuevas dels Hams, 169
Cuy (guinea pig), 387
The Cyclone, 409
Cypress Valley, 35

Dallas
Gilley’s Dallas, 406–407
Zero Gravity Thrill

Amusement Park, 404
Darwin, Australia,

325–326
The Death Race, 294–295
Deep-sea fishing. See

Fishing
Denver Aquarium, scuba

diving in, 335–336
Desert sailing, 202–203
Devon barrel burning, 378


INDEX

Dhows, Musandam Peninsula,
71

Dig This, 372–373

Dinner in the Sky, 312

Discovery (catamaran), 97

Discovery Voyages, 80–81

Diving. See also Scuba
diving
cliff, 54–55

Dogon country, 211–212

Dog-sledding, 358

The Dolomites, 152–153

Donegal Bay, 105

Double Six Club, 27

Doug Foley’s Drag Racing
School, 239

Dracula tours of Transylvania,
390–391

Dublin, S(ain}t. Michan’s
Church, 395

Dueling Dragons, 408

Durian, 386–387

Dyke jumping, 200–201

Earthwatch Institute,
183–185, 217

Easter Island archaeological
expedition, 183

Eastern State Penitentiary,
391–392

Eating
exotic, 386–387
extreme contests,
298–299

Edinburgh, Auld Reekie
Terror Tour, 389

Eiffel Tower, 311

The Eiger, 13, 16

Eilat, 87–88

El Imposible National Park,
179

Eliza Thompson House,
403

Emirates Melbourne Cup,
288

Emperor penguins,
360–361

Empire State Building Run
Up, 255–256

The Essence Music Festival,
283

Everest, Mount
Base Camp, 111–112
helicopter tours, 11

Extremis: Drop Ride to
Doom!, 408

Falling Water Trail, 129
Farm holidays, Iceland,
214
F-18 Super Hornet Experi


ence, 405
Festa de Ceri, 376–377
Field Museum, 316
Fire dancing boot camp,

240–241

Fishing
Baja California, 102
Cabo San Lucas, 101
Cuba, 100
Mykines, 223–224
piranha, 337–338

Flightseeing. See Helicop


ter tours
Flight simulators, 405
Flying Fox Neemrana, 34
Football (soccer), Buenos

Aires, 317–318
Four-wheeling, 231–232
Franconia Notch State

Park, 129
Free-sledding, 141
Free-sledding Lincoln Gap

Road, 141
Frozen Dead Guy Days

Festival, 373–374
Fugu (pufferfish), 386
Fuji, Mount, 110–111

Gambling, 303–304
Game show contestant,
319–320
Gangkhar Puensum,

210–211
Gardiner, 21
Gauley River, 85
Gettysburg, Pennsylvania,

384–385
Ghosts and haunted
houses
American South,
402–403
Charleville Castle,
399–400
Edinburgh, 389

New Orleans, 400–402
Winchester Mystery

House, 396–397
Gilley’s Dallas, 406–407
Glaciers, cruising among,

80–81
Global Scavenger Hunt,

296–297
GlobeAware, 217
Gloucestershire cheese

rolling race, 366
Gold panning, 368
Gorgona island, 339–340
Gorillas, 216

safaris, 343–344
Grand Canyon, 84
Grand Canyon of the

Pacific (Waimea Canyon),
112–114
Grand National steeplechase,
288

Grand Staircase/Escalante
National Monument,
162–163

Grape stomping, 204–205
Grass-skiing, 194
Greasy Pole competition,

279
Great Barrier Reef, 39–40,
75, 76
Great Bottle Kicking
Festival, 277
Great Divide Race,
258–259
Great Knaresborough Bed
Race, 380–381
Great Ocean Road,
224–226
Great white sharks, diving
with, 323
Gretzky, Wayne, Hockey

Fantasy Camp, 251–252
Gruyere, Switzerland, 20
Guinea pig (cuy), 387
Gunung Tahan, 213
Gyoza Eating Champion


ship, 299

Habliyan Beach, 71
Hakarl, 386
Haleakala, 34–35, 73–74
Haleakala Skyline Adven


ture, 34–35


ALPHABETICAL INDEX

HALO parachuting, 22–23
Hammock House, 402
Hanalei Bay, 105
Hang gliding, 30–33
Haro Wine Battle, 369
Haunted houses and

ghosts
American South,
402–403
Charleville Castle,


399–400
Edinburgh, 389
New Orleans, 400–402
Winchester Mystery

House, 396–397
Hawaiian Sailing Canoe
Adventures, 73–74
Hawaii Volcanoes National

Park, 9–11
Hebrides Islands, 62–63
Helicopter tours, 8–9

Mount Everest, 11

Niagara Falls, 82
Heli-cycling, 7–8
Heli-hiking to a via ferrata,

125–126
Heli-skiing, 138–139
Hermes (wreck dive), 49
High Atlas Mountains,

207–208
Hiking and trekking,
109–130
Auyuittuq National

Park, 130–131
Bhutan, 210–211
Bryce Canyon National

Park, 114–115
Costa Rica, 124–125
Dogon country,

211–212

heli-hiking to a via
ferrata, 125–126
Inca Trail to Machu

Picchu, 122–123
Isla Navarino, 123–124
Masada National Park,

119–120
Mount Everest Base

Camp, 111–112
Mount Fuji, 110–111
Mount Rainier, 115–116
Oregon, 127–128

Perito Moreno Glacier,
109
Samaria Gorge,
117–118
Taman Negara rainforest,
212–213
Waimea Canyon,
112–114
White Mountains,
128–129

The Himalayas
Bhutan, 210–211
heli-skiing, 138

Hindu Festival of Color
(Holi), 377–378
Hippos, canoeing with,
347–348
History Museum of
Brasov, 217
Hol Chan Marine Reserve,

326–327
Holiday World, 409
Holi Festival of Color,

377–378
Homosassa Springs Wild


life State Park, 327
Hoodoos, 114–115
Hood River, 94–95, 97
Hoover Dam, kayaking,

60–61
Hornstrandir Nature
Reserve, 69–70

Horseback riding
Argentina, 209–210
New Mexico, 340–341
safaris, 221–222

Horse races, 288
Hot-air ballooning, 14–15
Humpback whales, swim


ming with, 328–329

Icarus Cup, 284–285
Icebreaker, Arctic, 74–75
Ice climbing, 151–157
Ice diving, 41
Ice Fishing Competition,

234
Icy Straight Point, 35
Idiotarod, 269
Iditarod, 256–257
Iguazu Forest, 35
Inca Trail, 122–123

Indian Ocean, parasailing
and other watersports,
88–89

Inside Passage, 361–362
Interlaken, 16, 20–21,
31–32
International Museum of

Surgical Science, 393, 396
Inuvik, 228
Irish road bowling,

382–383
Isla Carmen, 57
Isla Danzante, 57
Isla Navarino, 123–124
Isle of Mull, 348–349
I-to-i, 216–217
Ivrea Orange Battle, 375

Jackson Hole, 15, 84, 146
Jardines de la Reina, 100
Jasper National Park,

153–154

Jazz Fest (New Orleans
Jazz & Heritage Festival),
307

Jazz Vermont, 252
Jbel Toubkal, 207–208
Jean-Michel Cousteau Fiji

Islands Resort, 42–43
Jeffreys Bay, 104
Jellyfish Lake, 48
Jet-boating and jet-boat

tours
Niagara Falls, 82
Shotover Gorge, 78–79
Swan River, 77
Tsitsikamma Coastal

National Park, 99, 101
Jim Gibson’s Motocross

Training Camp, 243
Jordan, Michael, 242
Joshua Tree, 159–161
Jungala at Busch Gardens,

336–337
Jupiter Peak, 131

Kakum National Park,
33, 36
Kalaupapa National His


toric Park, 185–186
Karelia Republic, 41
Katmai National Park and

Preserve, 355–356


INDEX

Katoomba, 164–165
Katun, 409
Kauai, 79–80, 105,

112–114, 197
Kawarau Bridge, 26
Kayaking

Andaman Sea, 63–64
Cape Point, 58–59
Hebrides Islands, 62–63
Hoover Dam, 60–61
Iceland, 69–70
Maine coast, 66–67
Mosquito Bay, 68
New Hampshire, 129
with orcas, 361–362
Portugal, 82–83
Sea of Cortez, 56–57

Kehoe House, 402–403
Kennedy Space Center,

192–193
Kentucky Derby, 288
The Killing Fields, 395
Kingda Ka, 408
Kirkinpar wrestling

festival, 283–284
Kirkwood, 146
Kiteboarding, 96–97
Kite-flying, 29–30
Kitty Hawk Kites, 29–30
Kona, 324–325
Kostnice “Bone Church”

Kutna Hora, 395
Krabi, 63–64
Krystal Square Off, 299
Kuala Lumpur, 311
Kumzar, 71

Lac La Biche, 285–286
Lady Elliot Island, 39–40
Laguna Beach, skimboard


ing, 92–93
Lake Placid, 134–135
LaLaurie Mansion, 402
Langebaan Lagoon, 93
La Palma, 180
La Paz, biking to Coroico

from, 173–174
La Quebrada Cliffs, 54
The Last Resort, 24
Las Vegas

gambling, 303–304
indoor skydiving, 18–19

Michael Jordan Flight
School, 242

Roller Coaster at New
York-New York Casino,
408

StuntWorld Action

Camp, 248
Lava Canyon #184, 119
Lee County Manatee Park,

328
The Legend, 409
Les Catacombes de Paris,

394
L’Etape du Tour de France,

174
Lincoln Gap, 141
Lion safaris, 344–345
Liseberg, 409
Livigno, 147
Lofoten Islands, 342–343
Lollapalooza, 282
London

Extremis: Drop Ride to
Doom!, 408

parkour, 253
London Eye, 309
Lonesome Lake Hut, 136
Loreto Bay National

Marine Park, 57
Los Angeles
game show contestant,
319–320
Gyoza Eating Championship,
299
The X Games, 280–281
Los Glaciares National
Park, 109
Luxor, 15

Maah Daah Hey Trail,
175–176
Macau Tower, bungee
jumping, 27

Macau Tower Convention
and Entertainment
Center, 311

Machu Picchu, 122–123
MacKenzie River ice road,

227–228
Magnolia Manor, 402
Maine Coast, kayaking,

66–67
Makau Beach, 79

Maligne Canyon, 153–154
Malindi Marine Reserve
Park, 50
Mallorca (Majorca), caving,

169–170
Malpelo, 52–53
Mammoth, 146
Mammoth Cave, 166–167
Mammoth Site, 184–185
Manatees, swimming with,

327–328
Manhattan Island Marathon
Swim, 91–92
Manta rays, night diving
with, 324–325
Man versus Horse Marathon,
261–263
Marathon Des Sables,
259–260
Mardi Gras, New Orleans,

306–307
Marfa lights, 189
Maria Island, 352–353
Marion, 21
Marrakech markets,

314–315
Marsa Alam, 202–203
Mary Celestina (wreck

dive), 49
Masada National Park,
119–120
Masai Mara National

Reserve, 218–219
Maui, 73–74, 97
Mayrhofen, 147
Medora, 175–176
Mendoza, 209–210
Menger Hotel, 402
Metropolitan National

Park, 222–223
Michael Jordan Flight

School, 242
Micronesia, 47–48
MiG flights, 2–3
Millennium Force, 409
Millennium Skate Park,

307–308
Mini-subs, 44–45
Mirabilandia, 409
Mirror Lake, 116
Missouri, USS, 316
Moab, 180
Mokai Gravity Canyon, 35


ALPHABETICAL INDEX

Molokai mule ride,

185–186
Mombasa, 49–50
Monarch butterflies,

334–335
Montalla, 21
Mont Blanc, 28–29
Monte Carlo, 320–321
Monteverde Cloud

Forest, 34
Mosquito Bay, 68–69
Motocross Grand Prix,

281–282
Motocross training camp,

243
Motorbike racing, 286
Motorcycling, 228–231
Motueka, New Zealand, 20
Mountain Adventure

Seminars, 246
Mountain and road biking,
173–181
Bass Lake, California,
181
Cappadocia, Turkey,

180
Dalat Highlands, 181
El Salvador, 179
Galapagos Islands, 180
Golden Gate Bridge,

177–178
La Palma, Canary
Islands, 180
La Paz to Coroico,
173–174
L’Etape du Tour de
France, 174
Maah Daah Hey Trail,

175–176
Oahu, 176–177
Paul Bunyan Trail,


233–234
Pearl Pass in Colorado,

181
Piemonte, Italy, 180
Sichuan Province,

178–179
Texas Hill Country, 181
Utah, 180
Wales, 181
The X Games, 280–281

Mountainboarding,
194–195

Mountain tubing, 197
M(oun)t. Everest Base
Camp, 111–112
Mount Hood Punch Bowl,
55
Mount Rainier National

Park, 115–116
Mud flat hiking, 203–204
Mui Ne, 96
Mule rides, Molokai,

185–186
Musandam Peninsula, 71
Musee de la Civilisation,

134
Museo de las Momias,
392–393
Museums, overnights at,

316–317
Music festivals, 282–283
Mykines, 223–224
Mystic Mountain, 198

Nagashima Spa Land

Amusement Park, 408
Napa Valley, 15
Napo River, 215
Nathan’s Hot Dog Eating

Contest, 298
National Air and Space
Museum, 405
New Jersey, Battleship,
316–317

New Orleans
haunted, 400–401
Jazz & Heritage Festival

(Jazz Fest), 307
LaLaurie Mansion, 402
Mardi Gras, 306–307
roller girls bull running,

381–382
Newport Folk Festival, 283
Newport Jazz Festival, 283
New River, 85
New River Gorge Bridge,

19, 22

New York-New York
Casino, Roller Coaster
at, 408

Niagara Falls, 81–82
Night diving, 50–51
with manta rays,
324–325

Night hiking, Costa Rica,
124–125
Night kayaking, Mosquito

Bay, 68–69
Niseko, 147
Nis Skull Tower, 394
Northwest Territories,

188, 227–228
Nothin’ but Net, 404

Oahu, 20, 104, 176–177
Ocho Rios, 198
Okavango Delta, 221
Old Colorado River, 27
Orcas, 342–343

kayaking with, 361–362

Oregon Dunes National
Recreation Area, 128,
201–202

Orlando, Florida, skydiving

in, 17–18
Ostrich racing, 362–363
Ottawa River, 26
Ouray, 151–152
Ouray Ice Festival, 151
Outer Banks (North

Carolina), 97
Outrigger canoes, 73–74
Outside Lands, 283
Overnights at museums,

316–317

Pacific Northwest Bridge,

27
Pacuare River, 85
Palau, 48
Palawan Island, 38
Palermo, Catacombs of

the Capuchins, 394
Palio horse race, 286–287
Pamplona, Running of the

Bulls, 302–303
Pansea Ksar Ghilane, 220
Parachuting (skydiving),

17–23

HALO, 22–23
Parasailing, 87–89
Paris, Les Catacombes de

Paris, 394
Park City, 131–132, 142
Parkour, 253
Patriot Hills, 257–258


INDEX

Paul Bunyan Trail,

233–234
Peavey Melody Music, 403
Pembrokeshire Coast,

coasteering, 89–90
Penguins, emperor,

360–361
Perito Moreno Glacier, 109
Perth, 77
Petrona Towers, 311
Philadelphia

Eastern State Peniten


tiary, 391–392
The Wing Bowl, 298
Zoo sleepovers, 317

Pictured Rocks National

Lakeshore, 233
Pipeline Road, 222
Piranha fishing, 337–338
Pitchfork Music Festival,

282
Polar Bear Club, 305–306
Ponte Brolla, 54
Portillo, 147
Portland, Oregon, 128
Positano, 226–227
Powell, Lake, 55
The Preakness, 288
Primal Quest, 264–265
Prince William Sound, 80
Prix de L’Arc de Triomphe,

288
Projects Abroad, 217
Pulque, 386
Pyla-sur-Mer, 199

Quetzal, 222–223

Race the Train, 263–264
Rafting. See White-water
rafting
Rainforest Bobsled
Jamaica, 198

Rainforests
bobsledding, 198
Costa Rica, 217
Taman Negara,

212–213
Ranch work in Wyoming,
216
Rangiroa, riding the
riptide, 103

Rapa Nui (Easter Island),
archaeological expedition,
183

Rappelling and climbing,
145–161
Colorado 14ers,

157–158
Cuba, 161
ice climbing, 151–157
Jbel Toubkal, 207–208
Joshua Tree National

Park, 159–161
Moaning Caverns,


150–151
Mount Elbrus, 149–150
Mount Fuji, 110–111
Mount Kilimanjaro, 121
Mount S(ain}t. Helens,

118–119
Shawangunk Ridge (the

Gunks), 158–159
The Rat Race, 289
Rats, eating, 387
Red Rocks Amphitheatre,

310
Red Rocks Park, 54–55
Red Sea, parasailing on

the, 87–88
Reindeer migration,

219–220
Reykjavik, 213–214
Rhone, HMS, 65
Richard Petty Driving

Experience, 244
Rickshaw Run, 293–294
Rio de Janeiro, hang

gliding, 32–33
Rip Curl Pro Surf & Music

Festival, 105
Riptide riding, 103
Riverboarding, 95
River rafting. See White


water rafting
River sledging (river

boarding), 98
Riviera Maya, 53, 56
Roadmonkey Adventure

Philanthropy, 216

Road trips, 224–234
Amalfi Drive, 226–227
MacKenzie River ice

road, 227–228

Torquay to Warrnambool
(Australia),
224–226

Roaring Fork River, 95

Rock climbing
Cuba, 161
Mt. Washington Valley,

129
Rock climbing camp, 246
Rock ‘n’ Roll Fantasy

Camp, 244–245

Roller Coaster at New
York-New York Casino,
408

Roller coasters, 408–409
Roller Girls Running of the
Bulls, 381–382
Rome, The Catacombs,

394
Rotorua, 200–201
Royal Gorge, 85
Ruby Falls Lantern Tour,

170–171
Ruby Mountains, 138
Running of the bulls

Ecuador, 379–380
roller girls, 381–382
Spain, 302–303

S(ain}t. George’s Castle, 36
S(ain}t. Helens, Mount,
118–119
The S(ain}t. James Hotel,
403
S(ain}t. Michan’s Church,
395
Sacred Valley of the Incas,
14

Safaris, 342–348
canoe, 347–348
gorilla, 343–344
killer whale, 342–343
lion, 344–345
tiger, 346

Saga City, 15
Saga International Balloon

Fiesta, 15
Sago worms, 387
Saguaro Lake, 55
Sahara Desert, 259–260
Sailing (yachting)

from Argentina to
Antarctica, 72–73



ALPHABETICAL INDEX

catamaran, 59–60
desert, 202–203
in the Greek Isles,


61–62
tall ships, 75–76


Saint-Hilaire du Touvet’s
Coupe d’Icare (Icarus
Cup), 284–285

Saint Mary’s Glacier, “The

Lake” at, 55
Samaria Gorge, 117–118
Sampo (Arctic icebreaker),

74–75
Sandboarding, the Dune
of Pyla, 199
Sand dunes, 199,

201–202, 208, 291
San Diego, 20, 104
San Francisco

biking the Golden Gate
Bridge, 177–178
catamaran sailing,

59–60
Santa Cruz, 104
Scavenger hunt, 296–297
Scenic drives. See Road

trips
Schiermonnikoog,
203–204
Schools and camps,
236–253
alligator wrestling

lessons, 236
bull riding, 250–251
Congo Camp, 240
covert ops training

camp, 237
Cowgirl Camp, 238
Doug Foley’s Drag

Racing School, 239
fire dancing boot camp,

240–241
Jazz Vermont, 252
Jim Gibson’s Motocross

Training Camp, 243
Michael Jordan Flight

School, 242
parkour, 253
Richard Petty Driving

Experience, 244
rock climbing camp,
246

Rock ‘n’ Roll Fantasy
Camp, 244–245
StuntWorld Action
Camp, 248
Survival Skills Weekend,
248–249
tornado chasing,
249–250
Woodward at Copper,
246–247

Scuba diving
in aquariums, 335–336
Bermuda wreck diving,

48–49
cenote and cave diving,

53, 56
Colombia, 52
Fiji, 42–43
with giant squid, 331
ice diving, 41
Kenya, 49–50
Lady Elliot Island, 39–40
with manta rays,

324–325
night diving in the


Caribbean, 50–51
with sharks, 323, 330
Storms River and the

Indian Ocean, 99
Western Pacific wreck
diving, 47–48
World War II wreck
diving, 45–47
wreck diving, 45–49

Sea kayaking
Andaman Sea, 63–64
Cape Point, 58–59
Hebrides Islands, 62–63
Hoover Dam, 60–61
Iceland, 69–70
Maine coast, 66–67
Mosquito Bay, 68
New Hampshire, 129
with orcas, 361–362
Portugal, 82–83
Sea of Cortez, 56–57

Sea lions, snorkeling with,

333–334
Seal Island, 349–350
Sea of Cortez, kayaking,

56–57
Sedona (Arizona), 14

Serengeti National Park,

14
Seville, 21
Shanghai World Financial

Center, 311
Shark Ray Alley, 326–327
Sharks

diving with, 52–53, 323,
330
snorkeling with,
326–327
Shawangunk Ridge (the
Gunks), 158–159
Shaw Millennium Skate
Park, 307–308
Shotover Canyon Swing,
16–17
Shotover Gorge, jet boating
in, 78–79
Sichuan Province, biking,
178–179
Siena, Palio horse race,

286–287
Sierra Club outings, 217
Silver Bank, 329
Simon’s Town, 58
Six Flags Great Adventure

& Wild Safari (Jackson,
New Jersey), 408
Skateboarding Millennium

Skate Park, 307–308
Skeleton sleds, 134–135
Skiing

backcountry, 136–137
extreme ski touring,

144–145
grass, 194
heli-skiing, 138–139
Park City Mountain

Resort, 131–132

White Mountains, 129
Skimboarding, 92–93
The Skull Tower, 394
Skydiving (parachuting),

17–23
HALO, 22–23
indoor, in Las Vegas,


18–19
SkyWalk (Auckland), 25, 28
Slickrock, 180
The Slingshot at Ratanga

Junction, 407, 410


INDEX

Smithsonian National Air
and Space Museum, 405

Snorkeling, 38–53
with sea lions, 333–334
Shark Ray Alley,

326–327
Storms River and the

Indian Ocean, 99
Snowboarding, 146–147
Snow Hill Island, 360–361
Snowkiting, 137, 140
Snowmobile drag race,

285–286
Snowmobiling, 232–234
Snowshoeing, 129, 135,

137, 141
Snowtubing, 143–144
Soccer (football), Buenos

Aires, 317–318
Sorrento to Salerno
(Amalfi Drive), 226
The Southern Alps (New
Zealand), 8–9
South Pole ski expeditions,
144–145
Space shuttle lift-off,

192–193
Space Walk, 405
Spiders, fried, 386
Squamish Days Logger

Sports Festival, 279
Squid, diving with, 331
Star Flyer, 401, 404
State fairs, 298–299
Steamboat Springs,

372–373

riverboarding, 95
Steel Dragon 2000, 408
Steven F. Udvar-Hazy

Center, 405
Stingray City scuba dive,
332–333
Stingrays, snorkeling with,

326–327
Storms River, 99
Stuart Cove’s Dive

Bahamas, 44–45
StuntWorld Action Camp,
248
Sturdivant Hall, 403

Submarine dives
Guam, 43–44
Stuart Cove’s Dive

Bahamas, 44–45
Surfing, 104–107
Survival Skills Weekend,

248–249
Swan River, jet boating
on, 77
Swimming
with crocodiles,
325–326
with humpback whales,

328–329
with manatees, 327
SwimTreks, 90–91

SwimTreks, 90–91
Sydney Harbour Bridge-
Climb, 301–302
Syracuse, Catacombs of
S(ain}t. John, 395

Table Mountain, 145,
148–149, 310
Table Mountain Aerial

Cableway, 148–149
Tacos de sesos, 387
Taghazout, 105
Tahquamenon Falls, 233
Taman Negara rainforest,

212–213
Tamarindo, 105
Tango, dancing, 318–319
Taos Pueblo, 340–341
Tar Creek Falls, 55
Tarifa, 96
Tasman Glacier, 132–133
Tavarua Island, 105
Telegraph Island, 71
Telluride, 139, 231–232
Terra Firma Promotions,

268–269
Terror Behind the Walls,

392
Texas Blastoff, 404
The Texas King, 298
Thor, Mount, 130
Thunder City fighter

flights, 4–5
Thunderdome cage battle,
272–273

Tigers
playing tug-of-war with,
336–337

safaris, 346
Tivoli Gardens, 401, 404
Tobogganing, Les Glis


sades de la Terrasse,

133–134
Tomato food fight, 367
Tombs, 394–395
Top of the Rock, 311
Tornado chasing, 249–250
Torquay to Warrnambool,

224–226
Tortola, bareboating,

65–66
Torture Museum, 389
Tough Guy Race, 290–291
Tour de France, 174
TransRockies Run,

265–266
Transylvania, Dracula

tours of, 390–391
Trapeze School, 313–314
Traverse City, 97
Tree climbing, 279
Trekking. See Hiking and

trekking

Tropical Wildlife Conservation
& Adventure Project
(Cambodia), 216

Truk, 47–48
Tsitsikamma Coastal

National Park, 99
Tubing, mountain, 197
Tuolumne River, 85
Turkish oil wrestling,

283–284
TYF Adventures, 89–90

Universal Studios,
Orlando, 408
USS Missouri, 316

Valeira Gorge, 83
Valle de la Luna, 208–209
Vampires, 390–391
Veliki Tabor, 395
Verzasca Dam, 26
Viaduc de la Souleuvre, 27


ALPHABETICAL INDEX

Via ferrate, 125–126,
152–153
Victoria Falls, 26, 85,

344–345
Victoria Peak, 310
Victoria Skimboards World

Championships, 92–93
Vieques, 68–69
Vild-Svinet, 408
Virgin Galactic, 3–4
Virginia Merchant, (wreck

dive), 49
Viuex Fort, 96–97
Volcano surfing,

Nicaragua, 196
Volunteer travel, 216–217

Waianapanapa Park, 55

Waimea Canyon (Grand
Canyon of the Pacific),
112–114

Wasatch Range, 139
Washington, Mount, 129
Wasserschlacts street

food fight, 383–384
Watamu Marine National

Park, 50
Watergate Bay, 87
Water splashing festival,

271–272
Watersports. See specific
sports

Waveskiing, 86–87
Wayne Gretzky Hockey
Fantasy Camp, 251–252
West Coast National Park,
93
Western Australia Maritime
Museum, 77
Whales and whale


watching
Isle of Mull, 348–349
orcas, 342–343, 361
swimming with,


328–329

White Air Extreme Sports
Festival, 292–293
White Mountains,

128–130, 135–136
White Nile, 84
White Sea, ice diving in, 41
White-water rafting, 84–85
White water sledging, 98
Whitsunday Islands, 75–76
Wildebeest migration,

218–219

Wildlife and wildlife viewing,
218–224. See also
Birding; Safaris; Whales
and whale-watching; And
specific wildlife

the Arctic, 353–355
Costa Rica, 125
Maria Island, 352–353
reindeer migration,

219–220
up close and personal
with, 323–341
wildebeest migration,

218–219
Willow Creek Trail, 181
Winchester Mystery

House, 396–397

Windsurfing
Cape Town, 93–94
Columbia River Gorge,

94–95
The Wing Bowl, 298
Wings (Smithsonian

National Air and Space
Museum), 405
Winter Speed Festival,
285–286
Winter sports, 131–145.

See also specific sports

free-sledding Lincoln
Gap Road, 141
skeleton and bobsled
runs, 134–135
Tasman Glacier, 132

Wolfgangsee, 54
Wolves, 357
Wonderland Trail, 116
World Bog Snorkeling

Championships, 276

World Deep-Fried Asparagus
Eating Championship,
299

World Grits Eating Championship,
299
World War II wreck diving,
45–49
The World Wife Carrying

Championship, 270–271
Wrangel Island, 353–354
Wreck diving, 45–49

Western Pacific, 47–48
Wrestling matches,
304–305

The X Games, 280–281

Yachting (sailing)
from Argentina to

Antarctica, 72–73
catamaran, 59–60
desert , 202–203
in the Greek Isles,


61–62
tall ships, 75–76
Yellowstone National Park,
139, 216, 357
Ypres battlefields, 398

Zambezi River, 85
Zero-G Experience, 12–13
Zero Gravity Thrill Amuse


ment Park, 404

Zip-line tours (canopy
tours), 33–36, 213, 215,
222

Ziptrek Ecotours, 34
Zodiac boats, 79–80
Zorbing, 200–201


INDEX


Photo Credits


p ii, top: Courtesy Cypress Valley Canopy Tours; p ii, 2nd from top: Courtesy Echo Canyon
River Expeditions; p ii, 3rd from top: Courtesy of CMH Heli-Hiking; p ii, bottom: Courtesy of
Yosemite Bicycle and Sport, in California, Photo by Rick Garner; p iii, top: Courtesy Vietnam
Motorbike Tours; p iii, 2nd from top: Courtesy of Woodward at Copper Mountain, Photo by
Dave Lehl; p iii, 3rd from top: Courtesy of West World Images; p iii, bottom: The London Eye
Company Limited; p 1: Courtesy Cypress Valley Canopy Tours; p 2: Courtesy Incredible
Adventures; p 6: Courtesy of SkyThrills!; p 7: Courtesy of Black Tomato; p 10: National Park
Service; p 12: Courtesy of Zero Gravity Corporation; p 15: Courtesy of Balloons Over Bagan;
p 17: Courtesy of Shotover Canyon Swing; p 23: Courtesy of Incredible Adventures; p 24:
Courtesy The Last Resort, photo by David Allerdice; p 25: Courtesy of Skywalk; p 30: Courtesy
Kitty Hawk Kites; p 33: Courtesy of Just Fly Rio, photo by Paulo Celani; p 37: Courtesy Echo
Canyon River Expeditions; p 39: Courtesy of Lady Elliot Island Eco Resort; p 42: Courtesy Jean-
Michel Cousteau Fiji Islands Resort, Photo by Chris McLennan; p 45: Courtesy Stuart Cove’s
Dive Bahamas, Photo by William Cline; p 46: Courtesy Papua New Guinea Tourism Promotion
Authority, Photo by Franco Banfi; p 52: Aviatur – Fundacion Malpelo; p 53: Courtesy Hidden
Worlds Cenotes Park; p 57: Courtesy of Sea Kayak Adventures, Photo by Terry Prichard; p 58:
Courtesy Paddlers Kayak Shop; p 59: Courtesy of Adventure Cat Sailing Charters, Photo by
Charlie Bergstedt; p 64: Courtesy of Sea Canoe Thailand; p 67: Maine Department of Tourism;
p 68: Rachel Falk; p 70: www.photo.is; p 73: Courtesy Hawaiian Sailing Canoe Adventures,
Photo by Bob Raimo; p 76: Courtesy Tourism Whitsundays; p 78: Courtesy Shotover Jet; p 81:
Courtesy Whirlpool Jet Boat Tours; p 83: Courtesy of Eventos Douro / Portuguese National
Tourist Office; p 86: Courtesy of Tourism Newquay; p 88: Courtesy of Israel Ministry of Tourism;
p 90: Courtesy TYF Adventure; p 104: Courtesy Ohau Visitor Bureau, Photo by Jan Cook;
p 106: Courtesy of The Surf Sanctuary; p 108: Courtesy of CMH Heli-Hiking; p 110: JNTO;
p 111: Courtesy of Crystal Mountain Treks, Photo by Jenny Gurung; p 113: Hawaii Tourism
Authority (HTA) / Tor Johnson; p 114: National Park Service; p 116: National Park Service;
p 120: Courtesy of Israel Ministry of Tourism; p 122: Mike Spring; p 126: Courtesy of CMH
Heli-Hiking; p 127: Courtesy Oregon Peak Adventures, Photo by Joe Whittington; p 129: White
Mountain National Forest/Ken Allen; p 130: Courtesy Black Feather Adventures; p 131: Park
City Mountain Resort; p 136: Courtesy Appalachian Mountain Club; p 140: Courtesy Snowkite
Soldier; p 142: Courtesy Utah Olympic Park; p 143: Courtesy Hawksnest Ski Resort; p 148:
Courtesy Abseil Africa; p 149: Todd Burleson / Alpine Ascents International; p 152: Courtesy
Ouray Chalet Inn, Photo by Lora Slawitschka; p 156: Yamnuska Mountain Adventures, Photo
by Bryce Jardine; p 159: Eva Lesiak; p 160: Courtesy Uprising Adventure Guides, Inc.; p 162:
Courtesy Excursions Of Escalante, photo by Lisa Jennica Sara; p 163: Courtesy of Costa Rica
Canyoning; p 168: Courtesy Hill Country Adventures, photos by LeAnn Sharp; p 171: Courtesy
Raccoon Mountain Caverns, photo by Jerry Wallace; p 172: Courtesy of Yosemite Bicycle
and Sport, in California, Photo by Rick Garner; p 173: Courtesy Vertigo Biking Bolivia, Photo
by Jules Guerin; p 175: Jeremy Wade Shockley/Fedora Photo; p 176: Courtesy of Bike Hawaii;
p 178: Courtesy of Blazing Saddles; p 181: Courtesy Phat Tire Ventures; p 183: Jack Brink;
p 184: Courtesy of The Mammoth Site; p 186: Photo by Richard Rader; p 187: © Michael
McLaughlin; p 192: Courtesy Colorado Cattle Company & Guest Ranch; p 193: Kennedy Space
Center; p 195: Courtesy of Surfin Dirt Mountain Boarding, Photo by Garry Harper; p 205:
Courtesy of Bluegreen Communities; p 206: Courtesy Vietnam Motorbike Tours; p 207: Courtesy
Kasbah Du Toubkal, photo by Alan Keohane; p 211: Courtesy of Artisans of Leisure,
Photo by Marc Lesser; p 214: Erlendur .or Magnusson for Arctic Adventures; p 215: Courtesy
Amazon Explorama Lodges; p 217: Courtesy Earthwatch, Photo by Laurie Marker; p 225:
Tourism Australia; p 226: Jack Brink; p 234: Syzygy Productions; p 235: Courtesy Double E
Ranch; p 241: Courtesy of Temple of Poi, Photo by David Yu; p 243: Courtesy of Jim Gibson


PHOTO CREDITS

Motorcross Training; p 245: Courtesy of Rock ‘n’ Roll Fantasy Camp; p 247: Courtesy of
Woodward at Copper Mountain, Photo by Dave Lehl; p 251: Photos by Ed Arnold of Capturing
Life Photography, and Sankey Rodeo School; p 254: Courtesy of Mark Silverstone/West World
Images; p 255: Courtesy New York Road Runners; p 262: Courtesy of Man V. Horse, Phots by
Chris Prichard; p 264: Courtesy of Race The Train; p 267: Courtesy Alcatraz Challenge
Aquathlon and Swim, Photo by Gary Emich; p 270: Courtesy of Sonkajarven Eukonkanto Oy -
Wife Carrying Ltd; p 273: Courtesy ING Bay to Breakers, Photo by Cindy Chew; p 275: Courtesy
Loyal Nanaimo Bathtub Society; p 282: Courtesy Lollapalooza, Photo by Dave Mead; p

285: Courtesy La Coupe Icare; p 288: www.kentuckytourism.com; p 290: Courtesy Tough Guy
Ltd; p 292: Courtesy of White Air Extreme Sports & Music Festival; p 294: Courtesy of The
Adventurists; p 296: Courtesy the Plymouth-Dakar Challenge; p 297: Courtesy The Global
Scavenger Hunt, Photo by William D. Chalmers; p 298: Courtesy of The Big Texan Steak
Ranch; p 300: The London Eye Company Limited; p 301: Courtesy of Bridge Climb; p 305:
Courtesy Coney Island Polar Bear Club, Photo by Tom “Iceman” McGann; p 308: Courtesy The
City of Calgary; p 311: Courtesy Top of the Rock; p 312: Courtesy Dinner In The Sky; p 313:
Courtesy Trapeze School New York; p 315: Jack Brink; p 316: Courtesy The Field Museum;
p 323: Courtesy of Rwanada Tourism; p 324: Courtesy of Jack’s Diving Locker; p 326: Courtesy
Belize Tourism Board, Photo by Tony Rath; p 329: Courtesy Conscious Breath Adventures,
Photo by Capt. Gene Flipse; p 332: Cayman Islands Department of Tourism; p 333: Jack
Brink; p 335: Courtesy of Mex Mich Guides; p 337: Courtesy Busch Gardens Tampa Bay;
p 339: Aviatur; p 341: Courtesy Town of Taos; p 343: Courtesy Rwanada Tourism; p 347:
Courtesy Chiawa Camp; p 351: Courtesy Orient-Express; p 356: Courtesy Katmai Coastal Bear
Tours, Photo by Brad Josephs; p 359: Jennifer Swetzoff; p 365: Courtesy Dig This, Photo by
Kim Keith; p 370: Courtesy Air Guitar World Championships, Photo by Joonas Kerttula; p 374:
Courtesy Frozen Dead Guy Days; p 381: Courtesy Bill Easy Rollergirls, Photo by Sally Asher;
p 382: Courtesy West Virginia Irish Road Bowling Association; p 388: Courtesy of Bonbon
Land; p 390: Mike Spring; p 391: Courtesy Eastern State Penitentuary, Photo by Andrew Garn;
p 396: Courtesy of International Museum of Surgical Science; p 397: Courtesy Winchester
Mystery House; p 399: Courtesy Charleville Castle; p 401: Courtesy Tivoli Gardens; p 403:
Courtesy HLC Hotels / Eliza Thompson House; p 406: Courtesy of Gilley’s Dallas, Photo by
Jamie Walzel; p 407: Courtsy Ratanga Junction, Photo by Juan Espy; p 409: Courtesy Holiday
World & Splashin’ Safari

Notes


440


IRELAND
PORTUGAL
ICELAND
NORWAY
SWEDEN DENMARK
FRANCE
SWITZ.
GREECE
TUNISIA
ALGERIA
MOROCCO
WESTERN SAHARA
MAURITANIA MALI
IVORY
COAST
GHANA
BURKINA
FASO NIGERIA
DEMOCRATIC
REPUBLIC
OF CONGO GABON
TOGO
BENINCAMEROON
ANGOLA
ZAMBIAMALAWI
TANZANIA
RWANDA
BURUNDI
SOMALIA KENYA
UGANDA
ETHIOPIA
YEMEN
OMAN
PAKISTAN NEPAL BHUTAN
BURMA
BANGLADESH
LAOS
TAIWAN
NORTH
KOREA
SOUTH
KOREA
JAPAN
VIETNAM
PHILIPPINES
NEW CALEDONIA
NEW ZEALAND Tasmania
FIJI
VANUATU
SOLOMON
ISLANDS
PAPUA
NEW GUINEA
A U S T R A L I A
I N D O N E S I A
CAMBODIA
THAILAND
BRUNEI
MALAYSIA
C H I N A AFGHANISTAN
KYRGYZSTAN
MO N G O L I A
R U S S I A
A F R I C A
TAJIKISTAN
UZBEKISTAN
TURKMENISTAN
KAZAKHSTAN
ARMENIA
SRI
LANKA
I N D I A
QATAR
EMIRATES
ERITREA
CENTRAL
AFRICAN
REPUBLIC
MOZAMBIQUE
NAMIBIA
SOUTH AFRICA
LESOTHO
SWAZILAND
REUNION
MAURITIUSMADAGASCAR ZIMBABWE
BOTSWANA
CHAD
SUDAN
NIGER
EGYPT
JORDAN
SAUDI
ARABIA
IRAQ IRAN
SYRIA
LEBANON
ISRAEL
CYPRUS
LIBYA
MACEDONIA
BULGARIA
YUGOSLAVIA
BELGIUM
LUX.
LATVIA
ESTONIA
LITHUANIA
TURKEY
GEORGIA
BELARUS
UKRAINE
MOLDOVA
POLAND
SLOVAKIA
GERMANY
NETHERLANDS
AUSTRIA
HUNGARY
ROMANIA
ALBANIA
BOZNIA-HERZEGOVINA
CROATIA
ITALY
ENGLAND
SPAIN
FINLAND
SENEGALSENEGAL
GUINEAGUINEA
GAMBIA SENEGAL
GUINEA
SIERRA LEONE
GUINEA-BISSAUGUINEA-BISSAU
LIBERIA
AUSTRALIA
INDONESIA
CHINA MONGOLIA
RUSSIA
AFRICA
INDIA
UNITED
ARAB
SERBIA
SLOVENIA
Aleutian Islands
Canary
Islands
North Island
Norwegian Sea
North Sea
Red Sea
Black Sea
Gulf of
Guinea
Gulf of Aden
Aral
Sea
Bay of
Bengal South
China
Sea
East China
Sea
Sea of
Japan
Sea of
Okhotsk
Bering Sea
Celebes
Sea
Coral
Sea
Tasman Sea
PACIFIC
OCEAN
SOUTH
ATLANTIC
OCEAN
INDIAN
OCEAN
NORTH
ATLANTIC
OCEAN
Caspian Sea
Baltic Sea
M e d i t e r r a n e an Se a
Dublin
London
Paris
Berlin
Oslo
Moscow Kazan
Tashkent
Yakutsk
Khabarovsk
Shenyang Sapporo
Tokyo
Osaka
Seoul
Pusan
Shanghai Wuhan
Tianjin
Beijing
T’ai-pei
Hong Kong
Manila
Hanoi
Bangkok
Ho Chi Minh
Kuala Lumpur
Singapore
Perth
Brisbane
Adelaide Sydney
Canberra Melbourne Auckland
Bangalore
Karachi
Delhi
Lahore
Colombo
Hyderabad
Omak
Novosibirsk
Irkutsk
Ulaanbaatar
St. Peterburg
Tripoli
Cairo
Addis Ababa
Nairobi
Dar es Salaam
Harare
Kinshasa
Lisbon
Copenhagen
Stockholm
Helsinki
KolkataKolkataKolkata
MumbaiMumbaiMumbai
ChennaiChennaiChennai
Volograd
Rostov
Istanbul Rome
Jeddah
Khartoum
Lagos
Luanda
Durban
Cape Town
Johannesburg
Kuwait
Tehran Baghdad
Alexandria
Tunis Algiers Rabat
Madrid Cassablanca

500 Incredible Ways to Get
an Adrenaline Rush



This guidebook takes you on an action-packed
tour of some of the world’s most exciting
adrenaline-pumping adventures. From daredevil
sports (bungee jumping, whitewater
rafting, sand-boarding) to hair-raising exploits
(haunted houses, roller coasters, catacombs) to
wacky and obscure festivals and races (tomato
food fi ghting, extreme eating), it’s packed with
high-octane experiences you don’t want to miss.

The book includes contact information and details
on accommodations and services to make
trip-planning easy. A geographical index helps
you fi nd destinations quickly.

Experience the Thrill of a Lifetime

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• Caving in the Mayan Underworld (Belize)
• Climbing Mt. Fuji (Japan)
• Dracula Tours in Transylvania (Romania)
• Flying a MIG over Moscow (Russia)
• Ostrich Racing (South Africa)
• Tobogganing in Quebec (Canada)
• World Bog Snorkeling Championship (United
Kingdom)
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