Guide to Australia(4)

ORIENTATION

Arriving

BY PLANE Qantas (&13 13 13 in Australia; www.qantas.com.au)
and discount airline Virgin Blue (&13 67 89 in Australia; www.virgin
blue.com.au) both fly to Melbourne from all state capitals and some
regional centers. Qantas’s discount arm, Jetstar (& 13 15 38 in Australia,
or 03/8341 4901; www.jetstar.com.au) flies to and from Darwin,
Perth, Cairns, Townsville, Hamilton Island, the Sunshine Coast and
Gold Coast, and Hobart and Launceston. Jetstar also flies between Avalon
Airport, about a 50-minute drive outside Melbourne’s city center,


Greater Melbourne


MELBOURNE
Orientation
RoyalParkPrincesParkWestGateParkAlbert
ParkRoyalBotanicGardensCarltonGardensFitzroyGardensYarraBendParkFlemingtonRacecourse
ShowGroundsGrand Prix
SiteMelbourneCricket GroundTo SydneyPrinces
PierStation
PierSpirit ofTasmaniaFerryTerminalSt. Kilda
BeachSt. KildaPierSt. Kilda
MarinaUniversity ofMelbourneMelbourneZooThe RiverDistrictSOUTHYARRAFITZROYCARLTONCITY
CENTERST. KILDADandenong Rd.
High St.
PrincessHwyToorak Rd.
Chapel
St.
Bridge Rd.
Victoria St.
Church St.
Punt Rd.
SouthEasternFreewaySwan St.
West GateFreewayBay St.
BeaconsfieldParadeCityRd.
Footscray Rd.
St. Kilda Rd.
KingsWayQueens Rd.
Fitzroy St.
Acland St.
HeidelbergHoddle St.Brunswick St.Victoria St. ParadeAlexandra PdeElizabethFlemingtonRacecourse Rd.
Ballarat Rd.Geelong Rd.
Western Hwy
Georges Rd.
St.
arineFwyRd.
St.
Rd.
EasternFreewayRoyal HumeParade HwyLygon St.
Yarra River
Port Philip
Bay
ToToAirportAirportCAULFIELDCAULFIELDRICHMONDRICHMONDPRAHRANPRAHRANNORTHNORTHMELBOURNEMELBOURNESOUTHSOUTHMELBOURNEMELBOURNEPORTPRTMELBOURNEMELBOURNEWILLIAMSTOWNWILLIAMSTOWNSOUTH
YARRA
RICHMOND
FITZROY
CARLTON
CITY
CENTER
ST. KILDA
CAULFIELD
PRAHRAN
NORTH
MELBOURNE
SOUTH
MELBOURNEPORT
MELBOURNE
WILLIAMSTOWN
RoyalPark
Princes
Park
West
Gate
Park
Albert
Park
Royal
Botanic
Gardens
Carlton
Gardens
Fitzroy
Gardens
YarraBendPark
FlemingtonRacecourse
Show
Grounds
Grand Prix
Site
Melbourne
Cricket Ground
To SydneyToAirport
Princes
Pier
Station
Pier
Spirit of
Tasmania
FerryTerminal
St. Kilda
Beach
St. Kilda
Pier
St. Kilda
Marina
University ofMelbourne
MelbourneZoo
The River
District
Dandenong Rd.
High St.
PrincessHwy
Toorak Rd.
Chapel
St.
Bridge Rd.
Victoria St.
Church St.
Punt Rd.
SouthEastern Freeway
Swan St.
West Gate Freeway
Bay St.
BeaconsfieldParade
CityRd.
Footscray Rd.
St. Kilda Rd.
KingsWay
Queens Rd.
Fitzroy St.
Acland St.
Heidelberg
Hoddle St.Brunswick St.Victoria St. Parade
Alexandra Pde
Elizabeth
FlemingtonRacecourse Rd.
Ballarat Rd.Geelong Rd.
Western Hwy
Georges Rd.
St.
arine
Fwy
Rd.
St.
Rd.
EasternFreeway
Royal HumeParade Hwy
Lygon St.
Balaclava Rd.BrightonRd.
Yarra River
Port Philip
Bay
Hobsons Bay
Golf
Train Line
N
5 mi0
0 5 km
AUSTRALIAA U S T R A L I AAUSTRALIA
CanberraCanberraPerthPerthDarwinDarwinSydneySydneyCanberra
Perth
Darwin
Sydney
BrisbaneBrisbaneBrisbane
MelbourneMelbourneMelbourne
13
and Sydney and Brisbane. Low-cost carrier Tiger Airways (&03/9335 3033; www.
tigerairways.com.au) has its hub in Melbourne, and from there flies to Brisbane,
Adelaide, Alice Springs, Canberra, Perth, Hobart and Launceston in Tasmania,
Mackay, Rockhampton, and the Gold and Sunshine Coasts in Queensland. The
skies are highly competitive, and, with rapidly expanding networks, more flights are
likely to have been added by both Jetstar and Tiger before you arrive in Australia.

Melbourne Airport’s international and domestic terminals (www.melair.com.au)
are all under one roof at Tullamarine, 22km (14 miles) northwest of the city center
(often referred to as Tullamarine Airport). Tiger Airways has a separate terminal next
door, distinguished by the tiger-striped water-tower landmark outside it. A travelers’
information desk is on the ground floor of the international terminal and is open from
6am until the last flight. The international terminal has snack bars, a restaurant, currency-
exchange facilities, and duty-free shops. ATMs are available at both terminals.
Showers are on the first floor of the international area. Baggage carts are free in the
international baggage claim hall but cost A$4 in the parking lot, departure lounge, or
domestic terminal. Baggage storage is available in the international terminal and costs

603


MELBOURNE

Orientation

from A$10 to A$20 per day, depending on size. The storage desk is open from 5am to
12:30am daily, and you need photo ID. The Hilton Melbourne Airport (&03/8336
2000) and Holiday Inn Melbourne Airport (& 1300/724 944 in Australia, or
03/9933 5111) are both within 5 minutes’ walk of the terminals.

Avis (&13 63 33 in Australia, or 03/9338 1800), Budget (&1300/362 848
in Australia, or 03/9353 9399), Europcar (& 1300/131 390 in Australia, or 03/
9241 6800), Hertz (& 13 30 39 in Australia, or 03/9338 4044), and Thrifty
(& 1300/367 227 in Australia, or 03/9241 6100) have airport rental desks. The
Tullamarine freeway to and from the airport joins with the CityLink, an electronic
toll-way system. Drivers need a CityLink pass. A 24-hour pass costs A$11. Check

13 with your car-rental company.
The distinctive red Skybus (&03/9335 3066 for recorded information; www.sky
bus.com.au) runs between the airport and Melbourne’s Southern Cross station in Spencer
Street every 10 to 15 minutes throughout the day and every 30 to 60 minutes
overnight, 24 hours a day, every day. Buy tickets from Skybus desks outside the baggage
claim areas or at the information desk in the international terminal. A free Skybus hotel
shuttle will pick you up at your hotel to connect with the larger airport-bound bus at
Southern Cross, but you must book this. It operates from 6am to 10pm weekdays and
7:30am to 5:30pm weekends. One-way tickets cost A$16 for adults, and A$26 gets you
a two-way journey. Kids aged 4 to 14 cost A$6 each way. A family ticket for up to six
people costs A$36 one-way or A$56 round-trip. The trip takes about 20 minutes from
the airport to Southern Cross station, but allow longer for your return journey.
Sita Coaches (&03/9689 7999; www.sitacoaches.com.au) operates a transfer
service to Avalon Airport for Jetstar flights. One-way fares from Avalon Airport are
A$20 adults and half-price for children 4 to 14 to Southern Cross station, more to
other CBD locations and other suburbs.
A taxi to the city center takes about 30 minutes and costs around A$45.

BY TRAIN Interstate trains arrive at Southern Cross Railway Station, Spencer
and Little Collins streets (5 blocks from Swanston St., in the city center). After
a multimillion-dollar face-lift completed in 2006, the station was renamed Southern
Cross, but you will still hear locals refer to it as Spencer Street Station. Taxis and
buses connect with the city.

The Sydney–Melbourne XPT travels between Australia’s two largest cities
daily; trip time is 11 hours. The adult fare is A$91 for economy class or A$128 first
class. A first-class sleeper costs A$216. For more information, contact Countrylink
(&13 22 32 in Australia; www.countrylink.info).

The Overland train provides daylight service between Melbourne and Adelaide
(trip time: just under 11 hr.) three times a week. The adult one-way fare is A$134 in
first class and A$90 in economy. For more information, contact Great Southern
Railways (&13 21 47 in Australia; www.gsr.com.au).

V/Line services also connect Melbourne with Adelaide. This trip is by train from
Melbourne to either Ballarat or Bendigo and by bus for the rest of the trip to Adelaide.
Total trip time is around 10 to 12 hours, and the fare is A$45 for adults (children
under 16 travel free with parents on off-peak times). The Canberra Link
connects to Melbourne; it’s a 1-hour train journey from Melbourne to Seymour, and
then a 7-hour bus trip to Canberra. The journey costs A$45 for adults, free for an
accompanied child under 16 off-peak. For reservations, contact V/Line (& 13 61
96 in Australia or 03/9697 2076; www.vline.com.au).


BY BUS Several bus companies connect Melbourne with other capitals and
regional areas of Victoria. Among the biggest are Greyhound Australia (&1300/
473 946 in Australia, or 07/3868 0937; www.greyhound.com.au). Coaches serve
Melbourne’s Transit Centre, 58 Franklin St., 2 blocks north of the Southern Cross
Railway station on Spencer Street. Trams and taxis serve the station; V/Line buses
(&13 61 96 in Australia; www.vline.com.au), which travel all over Victoria, depart
from the Spencer Street Coach Terminal.

BY CAR You can drive from Sydney to Melbourne along the Hume Highway (a
straight trip of about 91.2 hr.), via Goulburn in NSW (good for supplies), and Wangaratta
in Victoria (where you can detour into the Victorian Alps if you wish).
Another route is along the coastal Princes Highway, for which you will need a minimum
of 2 days, with stops. For information on all aspects of road travel in Victoria,
contact the Royal Automotive Club of Victoria (& 13 13 29 in Australia, or
03/9790 2211; www.racv.com.au).

Visitor Information

The first stop on any visitor’s itinerary should be the Melbourne Visitor Centre,
Federation Square, Swanston and Flinders streets (& 03/9658 9658; www.thats
melbourne.com.au). The center serves as a one-stop shop for tourism information,
accommodations and tour bookings, event ticketing, public transport information,
and ticket sales. Also here are an ATM, Internet terminals, and interactive multimedia
providing information on Melbourne and Victoria. The center is open daily from
9am to 6pm (except Christmas and Good Friday). The Melbourne Greeter Service
also operates from the Melbourne Visitor Centre. This service connects visitors
to enthusiastic local volunteers, who offer free one-on-one, half-day orientation tours
of the city at 9:30am daily. Book at least 2 days in advance (&03/9658 9658). The
Melbourne Visitor Centre also operates a staffed information booth in Bourke Street
Mall, between Swanston and Elizabeth streets. You’ll find some information services
at Information Victoria, 505 Little Collins St. (&1300/366 356 in Australia or
07/9603 9900). It’s open 8:30am to 5pm weekdays. In the central city area, also look
for Melbourne’s City Ambassadors—people, usually volunteers, who give tourist
information and directions. They’ll be wearing bright red shirts and caps.

Good websites about the city include CitySearch Melbourne, http://melbourne.
citysearch.com.au; as well as the official City of Melbourne site, www.melbourne.
vic.gov.au; and the official tourism site for the city, www.visitmelbourne.com.
Also worth a look is the locally run site www.onlymelbourne.com.au.

City Layout

Melbourne is on the Yarra River and stretches inland from Port Philip Bay, which lies
to its south. On a map, you’ll see a distinct central oblong area surrounded by
Flinders Street to the south, Latrobe Street to the north, Spring Street to the east,
and Spencer Street to the west. Cutting north-to-south through its center are the
two main shopping thoroughfares, Swanston Street and Elizabeth Street. Cross
streets between these major thoroughfares include Bourke Street Mall, a pedestrianonly
shopping promenade. If you continue south along Swanston Street and over the
river, it turns into St. Kilda Road, which runs to the coast. Melbourne’s various urban
“villages,” including South Yarra, Richmond, Carlton, and Fitzroy, surround the city

13
MELBOURNE

Orientation

605


center. The seaside suburb of St. Kilda is known for its diverse restaurants. If you’ve
visited Sydney, you’ll find Melbourne’s city center smaller and far less congested
with people and cars.

Neighborhoods in Brief

At more than 6,110 sq. km (2,383 sq. miles), Melbourne is one of the biggest cities in the
world by area. Below are the neighborhoods of most interest to visitors.

MELBOURNE

Neighborhoods in Brief

City Center Made up of a grid of streets
north of the Yarra River, the city center is
bordered by Flinders, Latrobe, Spring, and

13
Spencer streets. There’s good shopping
and charming cafes, and in recent years an
active nightlife has sprung up with the
opening of a swath of funky bars and restaurants
playing live and recorded music to
suit all ages. The gateway to the city is the
Flinders Street Station, with its dome and
clock tower, flanked by the Federation
Square precinct.

Chinatown This colorful section centers
on Little Bourke Street between Swanston
and Exhibition streets. The area marks Australia’s
oldest permanent Chinese settlement,
dating from the 1850s, when a few
boardinghouses catered to Chinese prospectors
lured by gold rushes. Plenty of
cheap restaurants crowd its alleyways.
Tram: Any to the city.

Carlton North of the center, Carlton is a
rambling suburb famous for Italian restaurants
along Lygon Street with outdoor
seating—though the quality of the food
varies. It’s the home of the University, so
there’s a healthy student scene. From
Bourke Street Mall, it’s a 15-minute walk to
the restaurants. Tram: 1 or 22 from Swanston
Street.

Fitzroy A ruggedly bohemian place 2km
(11.4 miles) north of the city center, Fitzroy is
raw and funky, filled with students and artists
and popular for people-watching. Fitzroy
revolves around Brunswick Street, with
its cheap restaurants, busy cafes, late-night
bookshops, art galleries, and pubs. Around
the corner, on Johnston Street, is a growing
Spanish quarter with tapas bars, flamenco
restaurants, and Spanish clubs. Tram: 11
from Collins Street.

Richmond One of Melbourne’s earliest
settlements is a multicultural quarter noted
for its historic streets and back lanes. Victoria
Street is reminiscent of Ho Chi Minh City,
with Vietnamese sights, sounds, aromas,
and restaurants everywhere. Bridge Road is
a discount-fashion precinct. Tram: 48 or 75
from Flinders Street to Bridge Road; 70
from Batman Avenue at Princes Bridge to
Swan Street; 109 from Bourke Street to
Victoria Street.

Southgate & Southbank This flashy
entertainment district on the banks of the
Yarra River opposite Flinders Street station
(linked by pedestrian bridges) is home to
the Crown Casino, Australia’s largest gaming
venue. Southbank has a myriad of restaurants,
bars, cafes, nightclubs, cinemas,
and designer shops. On the city side of the
river is the Melbourne Aquarium. All are a
10-minute stroll from Flinders Street Station.
Tram: 8 from Swanston Street.

Docklands Near the city center, at the
rear of the Spencer Street station, this
industrial area has become the biggest
development in Melbourne. NewQuay on
the waterfront has a diverse range of restaurants,
shops, and cinemas. This is also
where you’ll find Melbourne’s celebration of
the dominance of Australian Rules football,
the 52,000-seat stadium, currently called
Etihad Stadium (but also known as “the
Dome”). Docklands is accessible by the free
City Circle Tram or by river cruise boats.

St. Kilda Hip and bohemian in a shabbychic
sort of way, this bayside suburb
(6km/33.4 miles south of the city center) has
Melbourne’s highest concentration of restaurants,
ranging from glitzy to cheap, as
well as some superb cake shops and delis.
Historically it was Melbourne’s red-light


district. The Esplanade hugs a beach with a
historic pier and is the scene of a lively artsand-
crafts market on Sundays. Acland
Street houses many restaurants. Check out
Luna Park, one of the world’s oldest fun
parks, built in 1912, and ride the wooden
roller coaster. Tram: 10 or 12 from Collins
Street; 15 or 16 from Swanston Street; 96
from Bourke Street.

South Yarra/Prahan This posh part of
town abounds with boutiques, cinemas,
nightclubs, and galleries. Chapel Street is
famous for its upscale eateries and designerfashion
houses, while Commercial Road is
popular with the gay and lesbian community.
Off Chapel Street in Prahan is Greville
Street, a bohemian enclave of retro boutiques
and music outlets. Every Sunday
from noon to 5pm, the Greville Street Market
offers arts, crafts, old clothes, and jewelry.
Tram: 8 or 72 from Swanston Street.

South Melbourne One of the city’s oldest
working-class districts, South Melbourne is

known for its historic buildings, old-fashioned
pubs and hotels, and markets. Tram:
12 from Collins Street; 1 from Swanston Street.

The River District The muddy-looking
Yarra River runs southeast past the Royal
Botanic Gardens and near other attractions
such as the Arts Centre, the National Gallery
of Victoria, the Sidney Myer Music
Bowl, and the Melbourne Cricket Ground,
all described later in this chapter. Birrarung
Marr is the first new major parkland in Melbourne
in over 100 years. It is accessible by
the free City Circle Tram.

Williamstown A lack of extensive development
has left this outer waterfront suburb
with a rich architectural heritage. It
centers on Ferguson Street and Nelson
Place—both reminiscent of old England. On
the Strand overlooking the sea is a line of
bistros and restaurants, and a World War II
warship museum. Ferry: From Southgate,
the World Trade Center, or St. Kilda Pier.

13
MELBOURNE

Getting

GETTING AROUND

By Public Transportation

Trams, trains, and buses are operated by several private companies, including the
National Bus Company, Yarra Trams, and Connex, to name a few. Generally, both
tourists and locals travel around the city and inner suburbs by tram.

BY TRAM


Melbourne has the oldest tram network in the world. Trams are an
essential part of the city, a major cultural icon, and a great non-smoggy way of getting
around. Several hundred trams run over 325km (202 miles) of track.
Melbourne is progressively moving to a new ticketing system called myki (a
fraught process which has been slow in happening). However, while it is, there are
two types of ticketing on trains, trams, and buses, and you will be able to use either
a myki or a Metcard if you are travelling in Zones 1 and 2. At press time for this
book, myki tickets were in use on trains but not yet on all buses or any trams.

The cheapest tram travel within the city center is with a City Saver ticket, which
costs A$2.80 for adults, A$1.60 for children for a single journey. Or you can buy a
2-hour Metcard, good for unlimited transport on buses or trams for up to 2 hours
to all the attractions and suburbs listed in this book, for A$3.70 for adults and
A$2.30 for children. If you plan to pack in the sightseeing, try the Zone 1 Metcard
Daily ticket, which allows travel on all transport (trams and trains) within the city
and close surrounding suburbs mentioned in this chapter from 5:30am to midnight
(when transportation stops). It costs A$6.80 for adults and A$3.70 for children.

607


Buy single-trip and 2-hour tram tickets at ticket machines on trams, special ticket
offices, at most newsdealers, and at Metcard vending machines at many railway stations.
A Metcard needs to be validated by the Metcard validation machine on the
tram, on the station platform, or on the bus before each journey; the only exception
to this is the Metcard purchased from a vending machine on a tram, which is automatically
validated for that journey only. Vending machines on trams only accept
coins—but give change—whereas larger vending machines at train stations accept
coins and paper money and give change up to A$10.

You can pick up a free route map from the Melbourne Visitor Centre, Federation
Square, or the MetShop, Melbourne Town Hall building, corner of Swanston

13 Street and Little Collins Street (&13 16 38 in Australia; www.metlinkmelbourne.
com.au), which is open Monday through Friday from 9am to 5:30pm, and Saturday
from 9am to 1pm.
Trams stop at numbered tram-stop signs, sometimes in the middle of the road (so
beware of oncoming traffic!). To get off the tram, press the button near the handrails
or pull the cord above your head.
The City Circle Tram is the best way to get around the center of Melbourne—
and it’s free. The burgundy-and-cream trams travel a circular route between all the
major central attractions, and past shopping malls and arcades. The trams run, in
both directions, every 12 minutes between 10am and 6pm (and until 9pm Thurs–
Sat), except on Good Friday and December 25. The trams run along all the major
thoroughfares including Flinders and Spencer streets. Burgundy signs mark City
Circle Tram stops.

BY BUS The free Melbourne City Tourist Shuttle operates buses that pick up
and drop off at 13 stops around the city, including the Melbourne Museum, Queen
Victoria Market, Immigration Museum, Southbank Arts Precinct, the Shrine of
Remembrance and Botanic Gardens, Chinatown, and Flinders Lane, and many
other attractions. You can hop on and off during the day. The entire loop takes about
90 minutes nonstop, and there’s a commentary. The bus runs every 30 minutes from
9:30am until 4:30pm daily (except Christmas and some public holidays).

By Boat

Melbourne River Cruises (& 03/8610 2600; www.melbcruises.com.au) offers
a range of boat trips up and down the Yarra River, taking about 1 hour and 15 minutes.
It’s a really interesting way to get a feel for the city, and the tours include commentaries.
Tours cost A$23 adults, A$11 for kids, or A$50 for a family of four. Or
you can combine both up- and downriver tours for A$29 adults, A$16 kids, or A$75
families. Call ahead to confirm cruise departure times, as they change, and pick up
tickets from the blue Melbourne River Cruises kiosks at the Federation Square riverfront
(opposite Flinders St. Station).

By Taxi

Cabs are plentiful in the city, but it may be difficult to hail one in the city center late
on Friday and Saturday night. From 10pm to 5am, anywhere in Victoria, you must
pre-pay your fare. The driver will estimate the fare at the start of the journey, give
you a receipt and then adjust it according to the meter reading plus any fees such as
road tolls, at the end of your trip. Taxi companies include Silver Top (&13 10 08

MELBOURNE

Getting Around


in Australia), Embassy (& 13 17 55 in Australia), and Yellow Cabs (& 13 22
27 in Australia). A large, illuminated rooftop light indicates that a cab is available
for hire.

By Car

Driving in Melbourne can be challenging. Roads can be confusing, there are trams
everywhere, and there is a rule about turning right from the left lane at major intersections
in the downtown center and in South Melbourne (which leaves the left-hand lane
free for trams and through traffic). Here, you must wait for the lights to turn amber
before turning. Also, you must always stop behind a tram if it stops, because passengers
usually step directly into the road. Add to this the general lack of parking and expensive
hotel valet parking, and you’ll know why it’s better to get on a tram instead. For road
rules, pick up a copy of the Victorian Road Traffic handbook from bookshops or from a
Vic Roads office (&13 11 71 in Australia for the nearest office).

Major car-rental companies, all with offices at Tullamarine Airport, include Avis,
Shop 2, 8 Franklin St. (&03/9663 6366); Budget, Shop 3, 8 Franklin St. (&03/
9203 4844); Hertz, 10 Dorcas St., South Melbourne (&13 30 39 in Australia,
or 03/9698 2444); and Thrifty, 390 Elizabeth St. (& 1300/367 227 in Australia
or 03/8661 6000).


MELBOURNE

American Express
The main office is at 233
Collins St. (& 1300/139
060 in Australia, or 03/
9633 6333). It’s open Monday
through Friday from
9am to 5pm, and Saturday
from 10am to 1pm.

Business Hours In
general, stores are open
Monday through Wednesday
and Saturday from 9am
to 5:30pm, Thursday from
9am to 6pm, Friday from
9am to 9pm, and Sunday
from 10am to 5pm. The
larger department stores
stay open on Thursday until
6pm and Friday until 9pm.
Banks are open Monday
through Thursday from
9:30am to 4pm, and Friday
from 9:30am to 5pm.

Camera Repair

Vintech Camera Service
Centre, Fifth Floor, 358

Lonsdale St. (& 03/9602

1820), is well regarded.
Consulates The following
English-speaking countries
have consulates in
Melbourne: United States,
Level 6, 553 St. Kilda Rd.

(& 03/9526 5900);

United Kingdom, Level 17,
90 Collins St. (& 03/9652
1600); New Zealand, Level
10, 454 Collins St. (& 03/
9642 1279); and Canada,
Level 27, 101 Collins St.

(& 03/9653 9674).
Dentists Call the Dental
Emergency Service (&03/

9341 1040) for emergency
referral to a local dentist.
Doctors The “casualty”

department at the Royal
Melbourne Hospital, Grattan
Street, Parkville (&03/
9342 7000), responds to
emergencies. The Traveller’s
Medical & Vaccination

Centre, Second Floor, 393
Little Bourke St. (& 03/
9935 8100), offers full
vaccination and travel
medical services.

Emergencies In an
emergency, call & 000 for
police, ambulance, or the
fire department.

Internet Access There
are many Internet cafes
along Elizabeth Street,
between Flinders and
Latrobe streets, and
around Flinders Lane and
Little Bourke Street in Chinatown.
Most are open
from early until well into
the night.

Lost Property Contact
the nearest police station
or visit the Melbourne
Town Hall, Swanston Street
(& 03/9658 9779). If you
lose something on a tram,
call & 1800/800 166

13
MELBOURNE

Fast Facts: Melbourne

609


between 6am and 10pm. If
you lose something on a
train, call & 03/9610 7512
between 9am and 5pm
weekdays (including public
holidays).

Pharmacies (Chemist
Shops) The Mulqueeny
Pharmacy is on the corner
of Swanston and Collins
streets (& 03/9654

13

8569). It’s open Monday
through Friday from 8am
to 8pm, Saturday from
9am to 6pm, and Sunday
11am to 6pm.

MELBOURNE

Where to
Stay

Post Office The General
Post Office (GPO) at
250 Elizabeth St. (& 13 13
18 in Australia) is open
Monday through Friday
8:30am to 5:30pm, and on
Saturday 9am to 5pm.

Safety St. Kilda might
be coming up in the world,
but walking there alone at
night still isn’t wise. Parks
and gardens can also be
risky at night, as can the
area around the King
Street nightclubs.

Taxes Sales tax, where
it exists, is included in the
price, as is the 10% Goods
and Services Tax (GST).
There is no hotel tax in
Melbourne.

Telephones For
directory assistance, call
& 1223; for international
directory assistance, call

& 1225.
Weather Call & 1196
for recorded weather
information.

WHERE TO STAY

Getting a room is easy enough on weekends, when business travelers are back home.
You need to book well in advance, however, during the city’s hallmark events (say,
the weekend before the Melbourne Cup, and during the Grand Prix and the Australian
Open). Hostels in the St. Kilda area tend to fill up quickly in December and
January.

You’ll feel right in the heart of the action if you stay in the city center, which seems
to buzz all day (and night). The city center has been rejuvenated in recent years, and
you’ll be certain to find plenty to do. Otherwise, the inner city suburbs are all exciting
satellites, with good street life, restaurants, and pubs—and just a quick tram ride
from the city center. Transportation from the airport to the suburbs is a little more
expensive and complicated than to the city center, however.

The Best of Victoria booking service, Federation Square (&1300/780 045 in
Australia, or 03/9928 0000; www.bestof.com.au), open daily 9am to 6pm, can help
you book accommodations after you arrive in the city.

In the City Center

VERY EXPENSIVE
Adelphi Hotel It may be worth staying in this designer boutique hotel, a minute’s
walk from the city center, just for the experience of taking a dip in its top-floor 25m
(82-ft.) lap pool, which juts out from the end of the building and overhangs the
streets below. The pool has a glass bottom, so you can watch pedestrians below as
you float. One of the sexiest bars in Melbourne is adorned with the owner’s eclectic
private art collection, as is the whole hotel. The rooms are similarly modern, with
colorful leather seating and lots of burnished metal but have no views. Deluxe rooms
differ from the Premier rooms in that they come with a bathtub. I liked small
touches like the wind-proof umbrella (essential sometimes in Melbourne!) and the
clock that reflects the time on your bedroom ceiling. There are robes, slippers, and
coffee in the rooms.

187 Flinders Lane, Melbourne, VIC 3000. &03/8080 8888. Fax 03/8080 8800. www.adelphi.com.au.
34 units, most with shower only. A$500 Premier king room; A$600 deluxe double; A$1,200 executive


Where to Stay in Central Melbourne


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13
MELBOURNE

Where to
Stay

611


MELBOURNE

Where to
Stay

suite. Rates include breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking A$16. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; babysitting;
bikes; concierge; executive rooms; health club; heated outdoor pool; sauna; spa. In room: A/C, TV, DVD,
CD player, hair dryer, Internet (A$15 for 24 hr.; A$20 unlimited), minibar.

Crown Towers


One of Melbourne’s grandest and most impressive hotels,
Crown Towers is part of the Crown Casino complex, on the banks of the Yarra River.
Entry to the hotel is through a glittering lobby paved in black marble. The complex
has an enormous collection of gambling machines (called “pokies” in Australia), as
well as gaming tables. Upstairs in the hotel, standard guest rooms are cozy and all
have been recently refurbished. Superior guest rooms occupy floors 5 to 15, and
those above the 10th floor have spectacular city views. Deluxe rooms, which run up
13
to the 28th floor, are similar, and all have great views. Rooms above the 28th floor
are part of Crown’s Crystal Club, which offers club lounge services. From the 32nd
floor upward are the luxury villas. The hotel is a 10-minute walk from the main shopping
streets; trams stop right outside. Crown Casino offers 24-hour gambling.

8 Whiteman St., Southbank, Melbourne, VIC 3006. &1800/811 653 in Australia, or 03/9292 6868. Fax
03/9292 6299. www.crowntowers.com.au. 482 units. A$355–A$465 double; A$530–A$665 double
suite; A$1,380 2-bedroom suite; from A$900 villas. Extra person A$60. Children 12 and under stay free
in parent’s room. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking A$27. Amenities: 3 restaurants; babysitting; concierge; executive
rooms; health club; Olympic-size indoor pool; room service; spa. In room: A/C, TV w/pay movies,
hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (A$25 for 24 hr.).

Hotel Lindrum


If you like your hotels stylish and contemporary, then the
Hotel Lindrum is for you. It’s quite typical of the new wave of modern hotels that
emphasize trendy interior design. Standard rooms, if you can call them that, have
queen-size beds or two singles, lots of hardwood, soft lighting, and forest-green
tones. Superior rooms have king-size beds and lovely polished wood floorboards, and
deluxe rooms have wonderful views across to the Botanic Gardens through large bay
windows. The hotel boasts a smart restaurant, a billiard room, and a bar with an
open fire.

26 Flinders St., Melbourne, VIC 3000. &03/9668 1111. Fax: 03/9668 1199. www.hotellindrum.com.au.
59 units. A$245 standard double; A$275 superior room; A$315 deluxe room; A$340 suite. AE, DC, MC,

V. Parking off-site A$15. Amenities: Restaurant; bar. In room: A/C, TV w/free movies, DVD player w/
movie library, CD player w/CD library, free Internet.
EXPENSIVE
Grand Hotel Melbourne



This majestic heritage-listed building, which was
originally home to the Victorian railway administration, is striking for its remarkable
scale and imposing Italianate facade. Building started on the six-story site in 1887,
and additions were still being made in 1958. It became a hotel in 1997. Suites have
plush red Pullman carpets and full kitchens with dishwashers; one-bedroom loft
suites have European-style espresso machines, a second TV in the bedroom, and
great views over the new Docklands area beyond—though rooms are whisper quiet.
All rooms are similar but vary in size; some have balconies. Many of the suites are
split-level, with bedrooms on the second floor.
33 Spencer St., Melbourne, VIC 3000. &1300/361 455 in Australia, or 03/9611 4567. Fax 03/9611 4655.
www.mgallery.com. 103 units. A$229–A$259 studio suite; A$265–A$518 1-bedroom suite; A$355–
A$638 2-bedroom suite; A$800 3-bedroom suite. Extra person A$75. Children 11 and under stay free in
parent’s room. Ask about weekend and seasonal packages. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking A$15. Tram: 48 or 75
from Flinders St. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; babysitting; concierge; golf course nearby; exercise room;
Jacuzzi; heated indoor swimming pool (with retractable roof); room service; sauna. In room: A/C, TV/


MELBOURNE
Where to
Stay
Melbourne’s Deague family has com-
bined a passion for the arts and a
desire to join the global boutique hotel
trend by dedicating a series of new
hotels—six in all—to well-known Aus-
tralian artists. The flagship of the Art
Series Hotel Group is The Olsen, at
Chapel Street and Toorak Road, South
Yarra (&03/9040 1222), with 229
rooms. The A$60-million hotel is
named for the man regarded as Austra-
lia’s greatest living painter, John Olsen,
and claims to have the world’s largest
glass bottomed swimming pool, hang-
ing over the street. Rates start from
A$239 double per night for a studio
suite. The Cullen, an A$30-million 115-
room boutique hotel and entertainment
precinct at 164 Commercial Rd., Prah-
ran (&03/9098 1555) is named after
controversial artist Adam Cullen, and
has a rooftop cocktail bar and two
restaurants. Each hotel features a major
artwork commissioned especially for
the hotel foyer by the naming artist,
including one from Adam Cullen’s Ned
Kelly series and Olsen’s 6m (19-ft.)
mural, The Yellow Sun and Yarra, set in
the spectacular glass lobby of The
Olsen. Prints and a photographic his-
tory of the artist’s life adorn walls of
rooms and public spaces of the hotel
while the architecture, interior design,
linen, and stationery also reflect each
artist’s style. Still to open at press time
for this book were The Blackman,
named for Sydney artist John Blackman
and housed within the heritage-listed
Airlie House (backed by a modern
high-rise annex) on St. Kilda Road, as
well as The Larwill, The Knight, and The
Whitely. For updates, visit www.art
serieshotels.com.au.
Melbourne’s Art Hotels Melbourne’s Art Hotels
13
DVD w/pay movies, CD player, hair dryer, Internet (on 4th and 5th floors; A$27 for 24 hr.), kitchen,
minibar, Wi-Fi (on 6th floor; A$27 for 24 hr.).

The Windsor


The Windsor opened in 1883 (as “The Grand”) and since then
this upper-crust establishment has oozed sophistication. It holds a special place in
Australia’s history as the setting for the drafting of the country’s Constitution in
1898. But controversy has dogged plans for an A$260 million redevelopment plan
for Australia’s only surviving authentic “grand” hotel for several years now. At press
time for this book, the issues surrounding the plans seemed no closer to a resolution—
though by the time you visit, restoration may be underway. The plans for the
extensive face-lift and the possible addition of a modern town behind the existing
building would add an extra 152 rooms, bringing total accommodation to 332 rooms.
But some things won’t change: The renowned “high tea” will continue to be served
each afternoon, as it has been for more than 100 years. And the staff remains
friendly and efficient. The current standard rooms are comfortable, with high ceilings
and good-size bathrooms. Deluxe rooms are twice as big, and many have striking
views of Parliament House and the Melbourne Cathedral. Rates may also change
after the refurbishment is completed.
103 Spring St., Melbourne, VIC 3000. &1800/033 100 in Australia, or 03/9633 6000. Fax 03/9633
6001. www.thewindsor.com.au. 332 units. A$190–A$280 double; A$330–A$520 double suite. Extra
person from A$55. AE, DC, MC, V. Valet parking A$35 per night. Amenities: Restaurant; 2 bars; babysitting;
concierge; health club; room service. In room: A/C, TV w/pay movies, hair dryer, Internet (A$25 for
24 hr.), minibar.

613


MELBOURNE

Where to
Stay

MODERATE
Hotel Ibis Melbourne



A good deal, the Ibis is next door to the bus station
and a short walk from the central shopping areas. Rooms in the AAA-rated three-star
hotel are spacious, immaculate, and bright, and have attached showers. Apartments
have kitchenettes and tubs. Guests can make use of the swimming pool, sauna, and
Jacuzzi up the road at the historic Melbourne City Baths.

15–21 Therry St., Melbourne, VIC 3000. &1300/656 565 in Australia, 800/221-4542 in the U.S. and
Canada, 0800/444 422 in New Zealand, or 03/9666 0000. Fax 03/9666 0052. www.ibishotels.com.au.
250 units, some with shower only. A$119–A$139 double; A$149 1-bedroom apt; A$239 2-bedroom apt.
Extra person A$36. Children 11 and under stay free in parent’s room. Ask about packages. AE, DC, MC,

V. Parking A$11. Amenities: Restaurant; bar. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, Internet (all floors; A55. per
13

minute or A$27 for 24 hr.), Wi-Fi (on 9th and 11th floors; A55. per minute or A$27 for 24 hr.).

Robinsons in the City


Artfully created in what was once Melbourne’s first
commercial bakery, this lovely boutique hotel is tastefully elegant as well as being
casual and comfortable, with lots of personal touches. Built around 1850, the building
retains some original features, including the brick ovens that are now a feature
of the breakfast room. All rooms have either queen- or king-size beds and each guest
room has its own private bathroom just across the hallway. There’s a guest lounge
with an extensive library, and a “butler’s pantry” with a bar that operates on an honor
system. Owner Paul Humphreys is passionate about Melbourne and happy to help
you with your travel plans.

405 Spencer St. (at Batman St.), Melbourne, VIC 3003. &03/9329 2552. Fax 03/9329 3747. www.
robinsonsinthecity.com.au. 6 units, some with shower only. A$258–A$342 double. Rates include full
“farmhouse” breakfast. Ask about discount rates. AE, DC, MC, V. Limited free off-street parking, which
must be prebooked. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, free Wi-Fi.

INEXPENSIVE
All Seasons Kingsgate Hotel A 10-minute walk from the city, this interesting
hotel resembles a terrace building from the outside, but inside it’s a maze of corridors
and rooms. It has a real B&B feel to it, and the staff is very friendly. The least
expensive economy rooms have two single beds, a wardrobe, and a hand basin;
there’s barely enough room to swing a backpack, and the bathroom is down the
hallway. Standard rooms are light and spacious, with double or twin beds as well as
en-suite bathrooms. The 15 or so family rooms have double beds and two singles.
There is a 24-hour reception desk, free luggage-storage facilities, and free use of the
safety deposit boxes. Check the hotel’s website for really good deals.

131 King St., Melbourne, VIC 3000. &1300/734 171 in Australia, or 03/9629 4171. Fax 03/9629 7110. www.
kingsgatehotel.com.au. 225 units, 104 with bathroom. A$99–A$209 double; A$245–A$265 quad. AE, DC,
MC, V. Parking at Crown Casino, a 7-min. walk away. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar. In room: A/C, TV.

In East Melbourne

Albert Heights Serviced Apartments


For good, moderately priced accommodations
with cooking facilities (so you can cut down on meal costs), try the Albert
Heights. It’s in a nice area of Melbourne, about a 10-minute walk from the city
center. There are parks at each end of the street. Each self-contained unit in the
brick building is large and attractive. If you want your own space or are traveling with
your family, you can use the sofa bed in the living room. Superior apartments come
with a double bed; deluxe one-bedroom apartments with a queen-size bed; and
deluxe two-bedroom apartments with a queen-size and two large singles. Premier

apartments have a queen-size bed in the master bedroom, with a separate lounge
room with a single divan and single trundle bed. Each unit comes with a full kitchen
with a microwave (no conventional oven), dining area, and large bathroom. Check
the website for major discounts.

83 Albert St., East Melbourne, VIC 3002. &1800/800 117 in Australia, or 03/9419 0955. Fax 03/9419
9517. www.albertheights.com.au. 34 units. A$245 superior apt; A$260 premier apt; A$275 deluxe 1-bedroom
apt; A$310 deluxe 2-bedroom apt. Extra adult A$25; extra child A$20. Ask about special deals.
AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. Tram: 42 or 109. Amenities: Babysitting; Jacuzzi. In room: A/C, TV, hair
dryer, kitchen, free Wi-Fi.

Georgian Court Guest House The appearance of the comfortable Georgian
Court, set on a beautiful tree-lined street, hasn’t changed much since it was built in
1910. The sitting and dining rooms have high ceilings and offer old-world atmosphere.
The guest rooms are simply furnished, and some are in need of a refurbishment;
others have already had one. Some have en-suite bathrooms; others have
private bathrooms in the hallway. One room comes with a queen-size bed and a
Jacuzzi. The Georgian Court is a 15-minute stroll through the Fitzroy and Treasury
Gardens from the city center and is also close to the fashion shops of Bridge Road.

21 George St., East Melbourne, VIC 3002. &03/9419 6353. Fax 03/9416 0895. www.georgiancourt.
com.au. 31 units, 21 with bathroom. A$139 double without bathroom; A$159 double with bathroom;
A$179 family room with bathroom; A$170 queen spa room. Extra adult A$20, extra child A$12. Rates
include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. Tram: 75 from Flinders St., or 48 from Spencer
St. Amenities: Access to nearby health club. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (A$8 for 1 hr.; A$20
for 24 hr.).

In Fitzroy

The Nunnery


This former convent offers smart budget accommodations—
and something a little more upmarket—a short tram ride from the city center,
close to the restaurant and nightlife of Brunswick and Lygon streets in nearby
Carlton. The informal, friendly 1860s main building has high ceilings, handmade
light fittings, polished floorboards, marble fireplaces, and a hand-turned staircase.
There’s also a clever and rather irreverent play on its past in the decor. It’s well suited
to couples and families. The Guesthouse next door, built in the early 1900s, is also
comfy, stylish, and decorated with tasteful furnishings and artwork. All rooms share
bathrooms. The Nunnery, former home of the Daughters of Charity, also houses
dorm rooms that have four, eight, or twelve beds. Warning: There are no
elevators.
112–120 Nicholson St., Fitzroy, Melbourne, VIC 3065. &1800/032 635 in Australia, or 03/9419 8637. Fax
03/9417 7736. www.nunnery.com.au. 30 units, none with bathroom. Guesthouse A$130 double, A$145
double family room, plus A$30 per extra adult or A$15 per extra child 5–12 years; Budget section A$30–
A$34 per person bunk rooms, A$90–A$115 double, A$75 single private rooms. MC, V. Free parking
(reservation required). Tram: 96. Amenities: Kitchen. In room: TV, Wi-Fi (A$4 per hr.; A$15 per day).

In St. Kilda

Fountain Terrace


Built in 1880, Fountain Terrace has been lovingly
restored to its former glory by Penny and Heikki Minkkinen. This boutique guesthouse
has real character and is a wonderful alternative to traditional city hotels. It’s
on a tree-lined street just a few minutes’ walk from the sea and to the many restaurants
on Fitzroy and Acland streets. It’s very classy inside, with comfortable

13
MELBOURNE

Where to
Stay

615


MELBOURNE

Where to
Stay

communal areas that include a sunny drawing room where breakfast is served at an
antique refectory table. The rooms, which are named after famous Australian writers,
artists, and pioneers, have all those classic old-fashioned hallmarks of a historic
house, including nice prints on the walls and old fireplaces. Each one is a real individual,
so it’s well worth while checking out the pictures on the website. Guests also
have free access to the St. Kilda Sea Baths and the gymnasium, a 5-minute walk
away. If you want a little bit more space and privacy, the owners also have two smart
apartments around the corner on Fitzroy Street.

28 Mary St. (parallel to Fitzroy St.), St. Kilda West, Melbourne, VIC 3182. &03/9593 8123. Fax 03/9593
8696. www.fountainterrace.com.au. 7 units. A$175–A$245 double. Rates include breakfast. AE, DC, MC,

V. Free parking. Tram: 96, 16, or 112. Amenities: Access to St. Kilda Sea Baths pool and gym. In room:
13

A/C, TV, hair dryer.

Hotel Tolarno


The quirky Hotel Tolarno is in the middle of St. Kilda’s cafe and
restaurant strip, and a short stroll from the beach. Rich red carpets bedeck the corridors
throughout the 1950s and 1960s retro-style building. In an earlier life, the building
was owned by Melbourne artist Mirka Mora (after whom the hotel’s new restaurant
has been named), and the tradition continues today, with the walls hung with work by
Melbourne artists. Rooms vary, but all are modern and colorful. The most popular, the
deluxe doubles, are in the front of the building and have balconies overlooking the
main street. They are larger than the standard rooms. Superior doubles come with a
microwave and two have Japanese baths. Suites come with a separate kitchen and
lounge. Suites don’t have balconies, though some have Jacuzzis.
42 Fitzroy St., St. Kilda, Melbourne, VIC 3182. &1800/620 363 in Australia, or 03/9537 0200. Fax 03/
9534 7800. www.hoteltolarno.com.au. 36 units. A$145–A$180 double; A$200–A$275 suite; A$385
2-bedroom suite (sleeps 4). AE, DC, MC, V. Free on-street parking. Tram: 16 from Swanston St. or 96
from Flinders St. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; babysitting; bikes; concierge; room service; 4 lit tennis
courts. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, kitchenette, Wi-Fi (A$10 per hr.).

Olembia Guesthouse This sprawling Edwardian house, built in 1922, is set
back from a busy street behind a leafy courtyard. It’s popular with backpackers, tourists,
business travelers, and young families. The rooms are simply furnished, with
little more than a double bed or two singles, a desk, a hand basin, and a wardrobe.
Dorm rooms have between three and six beds (there are mixed and girls-only dorms).
Guests share six bathrooms. There’s a comfortable sitting room, a communal kitchen
and a coin-operated laundry. The Olembia is near St. Kilda beach and the restaurants
lining Acland Street.

96 Barkly St., St. Kilda, Melbourne, VIC 3182. &03/9537 1412. Fax 03/9537 1600. www.olembia.com.
au. 23 units, none with bathroom. A$85 double; A$100 triple; A$30 dorm room; A$60 single room. AE,
MC, V. Free parking. Tram: 96 from Bourke St. or 16 from Swanston St. Amenities: Bikes; kitchen.
In room: No phone.

In South Yarra & Toorak

The Como Melbourne


The Como deservedly basks in its reputation for
excellent service and terrific accommodations, which include studio rooms (some
with shower only), open-plan suites (all with spa tubs, some with private offices and/
or wet bars), one- or two-bedroom suites (all with kitchen, some with an office), and
luxurious penthouse and executive suites (split-level, with oversize spa tubs). Most
rooms are at least 40 sq. m (431 sq. ft.), and the bathrooms have a bathing menu
(and a rubber duck for you to take home). Some suites have a private Japanese


Where to Stay & Dine in St. Kilda


MELBOURNE
Where to
Stay
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DINING
Chinta Blues 6
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ACCOMMODATIONS
Fountain Terrace 1
Hotel Tolarno 2
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Canberra
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13
garden, and the Como Suite has a grand piano. The hotel is right in the heart of
South Yarra, Melbourne’s renowned restaurant, shopping, and cafe district, and is
popular with the fashion and entertainment set. The health club is painted in vibrant
energizing colors and the pool has a wonderful retractable roof.

630 Chapel St., South Yarra, VIC 3141. &1800/033 400 in Australia or 03/9825 2222. Fax 03/9824
1263. www.mirvachotels.com.au. 107 units. A$255 studio; A$295 open-plan suite; A$335 1-bedroom
suite; A$590 2-bedroom suite; A$950 penthouse suite; A$1,150 Como suite. Extra person A$40. Ask
about weekend packages. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking A$28. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; airport limousine
transfers (A$85); babysitting; bikes; concierge; health club; Jacuzzi; indoor pool; room service; sauna;
spa. In room: A/C, TV w/pay movies, DVD player (on request), CD player w/CD library, hair dryer, Internet
(A$10 per hr.; A$29 for 24 hr.), kitchen, minibar.

Cotterville


You will love the courtyard gardens as much as the art and music
that surround you in this beautifully restored terrace house and will likely go home
fast friends with your hosts and their two schnauzers. Owners Howard Neil and
Jeremy Vincent are extremely knowledgeable about the city’s arts scene—Jeremy
works at the Arts Centre and Howard is a former theater and television director. You
617


MELBOURNE

Where to Dine

can join them for “happy hour” drinks at 5pm, and, for an extra A$50 per person (and
advance notice), Howard will whip up a three-course gourmet dinner.

204 Williams Rd., Toorak, Melbourne, VIC 3142. &03/9826 9105 or 0409/900 807 mobile. www.
cotterville.com. 2 units with shared bathroom. A$130 single; A$160 double. Weekly rates available.
Rates include breakfast. MC, V. Free on-street parking. Train: Hawkesburn. In room: TV/DVD.

The Hatton


This striking Italianate mansion was built as a hotel in 1902. Its
latest incarnation came 5 years ago, when it was meticulously restored and stylishly
updated to become a sophisticated and contemporary boutique hotel. Many of the
original features—rosettes, cornices, stained-glass windows, wide verandas, and
high ceilings—have been retained, and the guest rooms have been fashioned from
13

the original structure, making each an individual space. Clever combinations of old
and new—antiques alongside specially commissioned modern art pieces—give it an
unusual but welcoming atmosphere. A massive kauri pine counter dominates the
front lounge, where you can read the papers or use the guest computer.

65 Park St., South Yarra, VIC 3141. &03/9868 4800. Fax 03/9868 4899. www.hatton.com.au. 20 units.
A$215–A$240 double; A$350 suite. Extra person A$50. Crib A$30. Rates include continental breakfast.
AE, DC, MC, V. Free off-street parking. Tram: No. 8 from Swanston St. In room: A/C, TV, CD player, hair
dryer, kitchenette, minibar, free Wi-Fi.

Hotel Claremont The high ceilings and the mosaic tiles in the lobby welcome
visitors into this old-world hotel. It’s an attractive place, though sparsely furnished.
The AAA-rated three-star rooms are comfortable enough; each comes with a single,
double, or queen-sized bed. Some rooms have a double bed and a single. There is
no elevator in this three-story building with 72 stairs, so it could be a bad choice for
travelers with disabilities.

189 Toorak Rd., South Yarra, Melbourne, VIC 3141. &1300/301 630 in Australia, or 03/9826 8000. Fax
03/9827 8652. www.hotelclaremont.com. 77 units, none with bathroom. A$79 twin bunk room; A$89–
A$125 double; A$119 triple; A$159 family room; A$42 dorm (6 beds). Extra person A$30. Rates include
continental breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Off-street parking A$14 per day. Tram: 8 from Swanston St.
In room: TV, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (A$8 for 1 hr.; A$20 for 24 hr.).

WHERE TO DINE

Melbourne’s ethnically diverse population ensures a healthy selection of international
cuisines. Chinatown, in the city center, is a fabulous hunting ground for Chinese,
Malaysian, Thai, Indonesian, Japanese, and Vietnamese fare, often at bargain prices.
Carlton has plenty of Italian cuisine, but the outdoor restaurants on Lygon Street aim
at unsuspecting tourists and can be overpriced and disappointing; avoid them. Richmond
is crammed with Greek and Vietnamese restaurants, and Fitzroy has cheap
Asian, Turkish, Mediterranean, and vegetarian food. To see and be seen, head to Chapel
Street or Toorak Road in South Yarra, or to St. Kilda, where you can join the throng
of Melbournians dining out along Fitzroy and Acland streets. Most of the cheaper
places in Melbourne are strictly BYO (bring your own wine or beer). Smoking is
banned by law in cafes and restaurants, so don’t even think about lighting up.

In the City Center

EXPENSIVE
Flower Drum



CANTONESE Praise pours in from all quarters for this
upscale restaurant just off Little Bourke Street, Chinatown’s main drag. Take a slow


Where to Dine in Central Melbourne


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13
MELBOURNE

Where to Dine

619


MELBOURNE

Where to Dine

elevator up to the restaurant, which has widely spaced tables (perfect for politicians
and businesspeople to clinch their deals). Take note of the specials—the chefs are
extremely creative and use the best ingredients they find in the markets each day.
The best idea is to put your menu selections into the hands of the waiter. The signature
dish is Peking duck. King crab dumplings in soup is a great starter, and you
can also order more unusual dishes, such as abalone (at a price: A$135 per 100
grams). The atmosphere is clubby and a bit old-fashioned, but the service is beyond
reproach. But be prepared to pay for the privilege.

17 Market Lane. &03/9662 3655. www.flower-drum.com. Reservations required. Main courses A$37–
A$50. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Sat noon–3pm and 6–11pm; Sun 6–10:30pm.

13

Grossi Florentino


ITALIAN Under the management of the Grossi family, this
is probably the best Italian restaurant in Melbourne. It has a casual bistro downstairs,
next to the Cellar Bar (where you can pick up a bowl of pasta for less than A$20);
upstairs is the fine-dining restaurant, with its chandeliers and murals reflecting the
Florentine way of life. The food is traditional Italian, with such dishes as rabbit “in
porchetta” (boned and rolled, with spices, fennel, and orange and black cabbage); or
grass-fed veal filet, with a herb crust, lentils, porcini, and bone marrow. On the menu,
too, are risotto, seafood, and steak dishes. Save room for dessert: perhaps the chocolate
souffle with malt ice cream and chocolate syrup? Or you could try the eight-course
tasting menu, for A$195 per person, or A$265 per person with matching wines.
80 Bourke St. &03/9662 1811. Fax 03/9662 2518. www.grossiflorentino.com. Reservations recommended.
Main courses A$39–A$55. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri noon–3pm; Mon–Sat 6–11pm.

Koko


JAPANESE Though you’ll find plenty of Japanese sushi and noodle
bars around Chinatown, there’s nothing quite like raw fish with a bit of panache. A
visit to Crown Casino Entertainment Complex can be a memorable experience in
itself, but stop off here and you’ll wish you could remember these tastes forever. The
restaurant has contemporary-traditional decor, with a goldfish pond in the center of
the main dining room and wonderful views over the city. There are separate teppanyaki
grills and screened tatami rooms where you sit on the matted floor. There’s a
vast and changing seasonal menu that includes lots of seafood dishes, including panfried
Patagonian tooth-fish and tempura baby lobster, or you can opt for a set menu
to take the agony out of choosing. A large selection of different sakes helps digestion.
Level 3, Crown Towers, Southbank. & 03/9292 6886. www.kokoatcrown.com.au. Reservations
required. Main courses A$36–A$49. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily noon–2:30pm and 6–10:30pm.

maze Melbourne


FRENCH/AUSTRALIAN There was much hype surrounding
the opening of British celebrity chef Gordon Ramsay’s first Melbourne restaurant
in mid-2010—and much discussion about whether it lived up to the hype. The
opening was just weeks before press time for this book; on my one visit, I found the
service impeccable, the food delicious and well-priced. The menu has quite a few dishes
not often found in Australian restaurants, including a seared leg of rabbit and slowcooked
pigeon breast, but there are plenty of more mainstream options, such as barramundi,
salmon, and steaks. A chef’s menu offers seven courses for A$95 per person. At
night, the restaurant is candlelit, and if you want a more casual option, there’s maze Grill.
Level 1, Crown Metropole, Whiteman St. (at Clarendon St.), Southbank. &03/9292 8300.
www.gordonramsay.com/mazemelbourne. Reservations recommended. Main courses
A$19–A$33. AE, MC, V. Daily 6:.30–10:30am, noon–2:30pm, and 6–11pm.


MODERATE
Bamboo House


CHINESE/CANTONESE If Flower Drum (see above) is
full or breaks your budget, try this place, esteemed by both the Chinese community
and local business big shots. The service is a pleasure, and the food is worth writing
home about. The waiters will help you construct a feast from the myriad Cantonese
and northern Chinese dishes. It’s worth ordering ahead to get a taste of the signature
dish, Szechuan crispy fragrant duck. Other popular dishes include pan-fried beef
dumplings and spring onion pancakes. The set menus for two to four people start at
A$48 per person, for which you’ll get eight or nine dishes.
47 Little Bourke St. &03/9662 1565. www.bamboohouse.com.au. Reservations recommended.
Main courses A$25–A$32. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri noon–3pm; Mon–Sat 5:30–
11pm; Sun 5:30–10pm.

Becco


MODERN ITALIAN Tucked away on a quiet lane, this favorite of
Melbournians has not disappointed in 7 years of winning awards and accolades.
Here you find stylish service and stylish customers, all without pretension. The
cuisine mixes Italian favors with Australian flair. Try the roast duck with muscatel
and grappa sauce, one of the tasty pasta dishes, or the specials, which your waiter
will fill you in on. If you prefer something lighter, there’s a bar menu of equally
tempting dishes from A$6.50 to A$22. On the upstairs level is the ultracool latenight
bar, Bellavista Social Club (p. 639).
11–25 Crossley St., near Bourke St. &03/9663 3000. www.becco.com.au. Main courses A$38–A$49.
AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Sat noon–3pm and 6–11pm; Sun 5:30–10pm.

Chocolate Buddha


NOODLES This place offers mostly organic produce,
including some organic wines. Based generally on Japanese-inspired noodle, ramen,
and soba dishes to which the kitchen adds meat, chicken, or seafood, it’s casual yet
particularly satisfying dining. The food is creative, and the view across the square to
the Yarra River and Southbank is a delight at dusk.
Federation Sq., corner of Flinders and Swanson sts. &03/9654 5688. www.chocolatebuddha.com.au.
Main courses A$20–A$32. AE, MC, V. Daily noon–10:30pm.

Il Bacaro


ITALIAN Walk into Il Bacaro and you’ll feel as if you’ve been transported
to Venice. Dominated by a horseshoe-shaped bar, it’s jam-packed with small tables
and weaving waiters carrying such dishes as organic baby chicken filled with pumpkin and
ricotta and wrapped in prosciutto, served on an oyster mushroom ragout. The pasta dishes
and the risotto of the day always go down well, as do the salad side dishes. It’s often
crowded at lunch with businesspeople digging into the excellent wine list.
168–170 Little Collins St. &03/9654 6778. www.ilbacaro.com.au. Reservations recommended. Main
courses A$26–A$42. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Sat noon–3pm and 6–11pm.

Il Solito Posto NORTHERN ITALIAN This below-ground restaurant consists
of two parts. The casual bistro has a blackboard menu offering good pastas, soups,
and salads. Then there’s the sharper and more upmarket trattoria, with its a la carte
menu offering the likes of steak, fish, and veal dishes such as osso buco or twicecooked
duck breast filet, served on polenta, with baby vegetables and a blood orange
and blueberry jus. The coffee is excellent, too.

113 Collins St., basement (enter through George Parade). &03/9654 4466. www.ilsolitoposto.com.au.
Reservations recommended. Main courses A$25–A$33 in bistro, A$22–A$44 in trattoria. AE, DC, MC, V.
Mon–Fri 7:30am–1am; Sat 9am–1am. Closed late Dec to early Jan.

13
MELBOURNE

Where to Dine

621


MoVida


SPANISH MoVida chef and co-owner Frank Camorra was born in
Barcelona and spent his first 5 years in his parents’ hometown of Cordoba in Andalucia
before coming to Australia. His restaurant reflects the spirit of Spain, relaxed
and fun, with seriously good food and good wine. Melbournians flock here, and it’s
truly one of those places I was tempted to keep a secret (if that’s possible due to the
fact that everyone talks about how great it is). MoVida offers a choice of tapas (small
individual dishes) or raciones (plates to share among two or more people, or a larger
dish for one). Specials are available every night to keep the regulars happy. And if
you have a large group, or want to dine outdoors, there is now MoVida Aqui, at
level 1, 500 Bourke St. (entry off Little Bourke St.), which has a huge casual dining

13 area and a terrace, and serves the same great food.

1 Hosier Lane. &03/9663 3038 (for all restaurants). www.movida.com.au. Reservations
recommended (maximum group is 6). Tapa A$3.50–A$8; racion (main courses) A$9–
A$20. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily noon–late.

Nudel Bar NOODLES A favorite with city slickers, the Nudel Bar serves a variety
of noodle dishes to diners at the crowded tables and bar. Examples include cold,
spicy green-tea noodles and mie goreng (a noodle dish with peanuts and, here, often
chicken). The signature dish is macaroni and cheese; and sticky rice pudding is a
favorite for dessert.

76 Bourke St. &03/9662 9100. Reservations recommended Fri–Sat night. Main courses A$13–A$24.
AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 11am–10pm (closes at 3pm Mon in winter).

Tjanabi @ Fed Square INDIGENOUS AUSTRALIAN If you want to get a
taste of what indigenous Australians have been eating for thousands of years, stop in
at Aboriginal elder Carolyn Briggs’ Tjanabi (it means “to celebrate”) restaurant at
Federation Square. Native produce, including plants, fruits, and berries (such as
native pepper, lemon myrtle, roasted wattleseed, and saltbush leaves), matched with
quality Australian game (kangaroo, emu, barramundi) and fresh steaks from regional
Victoria are on the menu. Service can be slow, even when they are not busy—but
the food is very good. A good option, especially at lunch, is a “taster plate” offering
a selection of four, six, or eight dishes from a special menu. The walls are adorned
with contemporary Aboriginal artworks.

Federation Sq. & 03/9662 2155. www.tjanabi.com.au. Reservations recommended. Taster plates
A$20, A$28, or A$35. Main courses A$24–A$38. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11am–11pm.

INEXPENSIVE
Cafe Segovia



CAFE This is one of my favorites. Cafe Segovia is always
friendly, always busy, and in an atmospheric laneway. It has an intimate interior, and
there’s also seating outside in the arcade, but you’ll have to come early at lunchtime
to nab a chair. It serves typical cafe food, such as focaccias, cakes, and light meals
(but the servings are generous). There’s live music Thursday and Friday.

33 Block Place. &03/9650 2373. Main courses A$16–A$27. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 8am–11pm; Sun
9am–5pm.

Hopetoun Tearooms


CAFE The first cup of coffee served in this Melbourne
institution left the pot in 1892. It’s very civilized, with green-and-white Regency
wallpaper and marble tables, but fine china has gone by the wayside in favor of
rather chunky railway-style cups, and the sugar is in paper packets. The cakes are
MELBOURNE

Where to Dine


very good. Scones, croissants, and grilled food are also available. The clientele is a
mix of old ladies and students, with the odd tourist or businessman. A minimum
charge of A$5 per person applies from noon to 2pm.

Shops 1 and 2, Block Arcade, 280–282 Collins St. &/fax 03/9650 2777. Main courses A$12–A$15; sandwiches
A$6.50–A$9.50. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 8:30am–5pm; Fri 8:30am–6pm; Sat 10am–3:30pm.

Sheni’s Curries SRI LANKAN This tiny (it seats 30), basic, very busy place
offers a range of excellent-value authentic Sri Lankan curries. You can dine here or
take your lunch special to go. Choose from three vegetable dishes and a selection of
meat and seafood options. All meals come with rice, three types of chutney, and a
pappadum. You can also buy extra items such as samosas and roti.

Shop 16, 161 Collins St. (corner of Flinders Lane and Russell St., opposite the entrance to the Grand
Hyatt). &03/9654 3535. Main courses A$5.50–A$15. No credit cards. Mon–Fri 8am–9pm.

Supper Inn CANTONESE Head here if you get the Chinese-food munchies late
at night. It’s a friendly place with a mixed crowd of locals and tourists chowing down
on such dishes as steaming bowls of congee (rice-based porridge), barbecued suckling
pig, mud crab, or stuffed scallops. Everything here is the real thing.

15 Celestial Ave. &/fax 03/9663 4759. Reservations recommended. Main courses A$14–A$25. AE, DC,
MC, V. Daily 5:30pm–2:30am.

In Carlton

Brunetti


ITALIAN Don’t be daunted by the crowds around the cake counters—
and there will be crowds. This is a real Italian experience. If you can get past
the mouthwatering array of excellent cakes, have lunch in the a la carte restaurant
section for authentic Italian cuisine, done very well. Or pop in for breakfast, coffee
and cake, or a gelato. If you can’t get to Carlton, there’s the cafe-style Brunetti City
Square at Swanston Street and Flinders Lane in the city.
194–204 Faraday St., Carlton. &03/9347 2801. www.brunetti.com.au. Main courses A$14–A$19. AE, DC,
MC, V. Sun–Thurs 6am–11pm, Fri–Sat 6am–midnight. Tram: 1, 15, 21, or 22 traveling north on Swanston St.

Shakahari VEGETARIAN Good vegetarian food isn’t just a meal without meat;
it’s a creation in its own right. Shakahari assures you of a creative meal that’s not at
all bland. The large restaurant is quite low-key, but the service can be a bit inconsistent.
The “Satay Legend”—skewered, lightly fried vegetables and tofu pieces with a
mild but spicy peanut sauce—is a perennial favorite. Also available are curries, croquettes,
tempura avocado, and a fragrant laksa. Wine is available by the glass.

201–203 Faraday St., Carlton. &03/9347 3848. www.shakahari.com.au. Main courses A$20–A$21. AE,
DC, MC, V. Mon–Sat noon–3pm; Sun–Thurs 6–9:30pm; Fri–Sat 6–10pm. Tram: 1, 15, 21, or 22 traveling
north along Swanston St.

In Fitzroy

Mario’s ITALIAN This place has ambience, groovy ’60s decor, great coffee, and
impeccable service. Offerings include a range of pastas and cakes. Breakfast is
served all day. The art on the wall of the cafe, all by local artists, is always interesting—
and for sale.

303 Brunswick St., Fitzroy. &03/9417 3343. Reservations not accepted. Main courses A$11–A$21. No
credit cards. Daily 7am–11pm.

13
MELBOURNE

Where to Dine

623


The Staff of Life
The aroma of fresh bread will attract
you to Babka Bakery, a Russian-style
cafe-bakery that is nearly always
packed. Come for breakfast or a light
lunch of eggs on fresh sourdough, or
any of the quiches, tarts, and brioches.
Or perhaps try the homemade borscht.
It’s at 358 Brunswick St., in Fitzroy
(&03/9416 0091), and is open Tuesday
to Sunday 7am to 7pm.

13 Seaside Dining in St. Kilda


MELBOURNE

Where to Dine

Chinta Blues MALAYSIAN Head to this very popular eatery if you’re looking for
simple, satisfying food with a healthy touch of spice. The big sellers are laksa, mie
goreng, chicken curry, sambal spinach, and a chicken dish called “Ayam Blues.” Lots
of noodles, too. It’s very busy, but usually there’s not more than a 30-minute wait for
a table. They do takeout as well.

6 Acland St., St. Kilda. &03/9534 9233. www.chintablues.com.au. Reservations not accepted at dinner.
Main courses A$13–A$25. AE, MC, V. Daily noon–2:30pm (4:30pm on Sun); Mon–Thurs 6–10:15pm;
Fri–Sat 6–11pm; Sun 5:30–10pm. Tram: 16 from Swanston St. or 96 from Bourke St.

Cicciolina


CONTEMPORARY It’s difficult enough to get a table at this
wonderful place, which doesn’t take bookings, without encouraging more people to
line up. But I’d be depriving you of a terrific night out if I kept quiet. So let’s just say
that if you’re looking for somewhere that’s intimate, crowded, well-run, and has
superb but simple food, you should look no further. You may have to wait for an hour
or so for your seat (have a drink in the back bar, and they’ll call you), but it will be
worth it for delights such as yellowfin tuna carpaccio soused in lime-infused olive
oil, beef carpaccio crusted with mustard and coriander seeds, or—my favorite—spaghettini
tossed with spinach, chili, and oil.
130 Acland St., St. Kilda. &03/9525 3333. www.cicciolinastkilda.com.au. Main courses A$19–A$40. AE,
DC, MC, V. Daily noon–11pm (10pm on Sun). Tram: 16 from Swanston St., or 94 or 96 from Bourke St.

Donovans


CONTEMPORARY A glass in hand while the sun goes down
over St. Kilda beach, watched from the veranda at Donovans, is a perfect way to end
the day. Gail and Kevin Donovan have transformed a 1920s bathing pavilion into a
welcoming restaurant that’s designed so you feel you’re in their home (or at least
their beach house). Lots of cushions, a log fire, coffee-table books, and the sound of
jazz and breakers on the beach complete the picture. If that’s not enough, the menu
includes a mind-boggling array of dishes, many big enough for two, and a children’s
menu. Chef Robert Castellani’s trademarks include steamed mussels, linguine with
seafood, and stuffed squid.
40 Jacka Blvd., St. Kilda. &03/9534 8221. www.donovanshouse.com.au. Reservations recommended.
Main courses A$25–A$48. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily noon–10:30pm. Tram: 12 from Collins St., 16 from Swanston
St., or 94 or 96 from Bourke St.

In Docklands

Mecca Bah


MIDDLE EASTERN Overlooking the Yarra River in the
up-and-coming waterside precinct of Docklands, and a short trip from the city


With a novel approach that’s not sur-
prisingly become a hit, vegetarian res-
taurant Lentil as Anything has a menu
without prices. Here, you eat—then pay
whatever you feel the meal and service
was worth. The food is organic, with lots
of noodles and vegetables and such
things as tofu, curries, and stir-fries.
Before you leave, you put your money in
a box. There are two restaurants. The
original is at 41 Blessington St., St.
Kilda (&03/9534 5833), open noon
to 9pm daily, and you can BYO liquor
here. A second outlet is at the Abbots-
ford Convent, 1 Saint Heliers St.,
Abbotsford (&03/9419 6444), open
daily from 9am to 9pm (but not serving
breakfast on Mondays, just drinks).
They take cash only. Check the website
www.lentilasanything.com.
Pay What You Think Pay What You Think
center, is this highly recommended and excellent Middle Eastern restaurant. You
could go for a main course, such as a lamb or chicken tagine, but the best way to eat
is to order several of the meze plates—little dishes of delicacies. Expect the likes of
pastry filled with Middle Eastern cheeses; chickpea battered mussels; or spicy lamb
and pine nut boureks (meat-filled pastries)—whatever you choose, you’ll be really
impressed. There’s also an interesting range of Turkish pizzas, too. The wine list is
good and not too expensive. You could cruise up the river to get here with Melbourne
River Cruises (see “Getting Around,” earlier in this chapter).

55 Newquay Promenade, Docklands. & 03/9642 1300. www.meccabah.com. Reservations not
accepted. Main courses A$19–A$23; meze plates A$6–A$14. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11am–11pm. Tram: 30
or 48 from Latrobe or Swanston sts.

SEEING THE SIGHTS

Melbourne’s attractions may not have quite the fame as some of Sydney’s, but visitors
come here to experience the contrasts of old-world architecture and the exciting
feel of a truly multicultural city.

The Top Attractions

Eureka Skydeck 88 The vertigo-challenging Eureka Skydeck 88 is the highest
public vantage point in the Southern Hemisphere. On the 88th floor of the Eureka
Tower, a viewing deck gives a 360-degree panorama of the city from 285m (935 ft.)
above the ground. But there’s more adrenaline-pumping action than just the view: A
huge glass cube called the Edge is actually a 6-ton horizontal elevator, which
emerges from inside the walls of Skydeck 88 carrying 12 passengers out over the
tower’s east side. As the opaque glass cube reaches its full extension, the reinforced,
45-millimeter-thick (13.4-in.) glass becomes clear, giving passengers uninterrupted
views below, above, and to three sides. All this accompanied by recorded sounds of
creaking chains and breaking glass—just to scare you more! Actually, it’s not as scary
as it sounds and the ride is only 4 minutes long.

Eureka Tower, Riverside Quay, South Bank. &03/9693 8888. www.eurekaskydeck.com.au. Admission
A$17 adults, A$9 children 4–16, A$39 family of 4; A$12 adults, A$8 children, A$29 families extra for the
Edge. Daily 10am–10pm (last entry 9:30pm). Closed Dec 25–26 and Good Friday.

13
MELBOURNE

Seeing the

625


Federation Square


You have to get into Federation Square, physically, to
appreciate it. The controversial design—Melbournians either love it or hate it (I fall
into the former category)—has given the city a gathering place, and you only have to
visit on the weekends to see that it works. A conglomerate of attractions are centered
on a large open piazza-style area cobbled with misshapen paving. Here you’ll find the
Ian Potter Centre (see below), Champions—The Australian Racing Museum
& Hall of Fame, and the Australian Centre for the Moving Image (ACMI),
which has two state-of-the-art cinemas and large areas where visitors can view movies,
videos, and digital media. A one-stop visitor center (see “Visitor Information,”
earlier in this chapter) operates, and there are many cafes and coffee shops through13
out the precinct. It’s worth visiting “Fed Square” just to see the architecture, made
up of strange geometrical designs, and the glassed atrium. Lots of events happen in
the square’s 450-seat amphitheater, including theatrical performances and free concerts.
Other events take place on the plaza and along the banks of the Yarra River.
Every Saturday from 11am to 5pm in the Atrium, you’ll find Melbourne’s biggest
book market, with 5,000 titles, new and second-hand.

Flinders St. (at St. Kilda Rd.). www.fedsquare.com. Free admission; charges for some special events and
exhibitions. Outdoor spaces open 24 hr. Tram: City Circle.

The Ian Potter Centre


This fascinating gallery, featuring 20 rooms dedicated
to Australian art, opened in 2002 in the heart of Federation Square. Part of the
National Gallery of Victoria (NGV), it contains the largest collection of Australian
art in the country, including works by Sidney Nolan, Russell Drysdale, and Tom
Roberts, as well as Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islanders. Some 20,000 objects are
stored here, but only about 800 are on display at any one time. Aboriginal art and
colonial art collections are the centerpieces of the gallery, but you will find modern
paintings here, too. Temporary exhibitions include anything from ceramics to shoes.
Federation Sq. (corner of Flinders St. and St. Kilda Rd.). &03/8660 2222. www.ngv.vic.gov.au. Free
admission. Tues–Sun 10am–5pm. Closed Mon (except public holidays), Good Friday, Dec 25, and until
1pm on Apr 25. Tram: City Circle. Bus: City Explorer.

IMAX Theatre


This eight-story movie screen rivals the world’s largest screen,
at Sydney’s Darling Harbour. Recent subjects have been surfing in Tahiti, dinosaurs,
the deep oceans, and African safaris. As part of the Melbourne Museum precinct,
your movie ticket also gets you free admission to the museum.
Melbourne Museum Complex, Rathdowne St., Carlton. &03/9663 5454. www.imaxmelbourne.com.
au. Admission from A$18 adults, A$13 children 3–15, A$50 family of 4. Daily 10am–10pm. Closed Dec 25.
Tram: City Circle.

Melbourne Aquarium


The Melbourne Aquarium has undergone a
A$28-million expansion, opening its prize exhibit in late 2008—an Antarctica display
featuring King and Gentoo penguins playing in the pool (with underwater viewing)
and sliding across the snow-covered ice. The 18 beguiling birds are Australia’s
only collection of sub-Antarctic penguins. The aquarium also features a reef exhibit,
some interesting jellyfish displays, and a 2.2-million-liter (581,000-gallon) Oceanarium
walk-through tank with larger fish, sharks, and rays. There are dive-feeding
demonstrations at 10:30am and 2pm. You can also take a glass-bottom-boat ride over
the Oceanarium and a “behind the scenes” tour with divers and marine biologists.
The 45-minute tour costs A$14 adults and A$7.50 children 4 to 15, and leaves daily

MELBOURNE

Seeing the Sights


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13
MELBOURNE

Seeing the

627


at 10:45am, 12:15pm, 1:15pm, and 2:15pm. You can also arrange to dive with the
sharks for A$242 for qualified divers or A$349 for nondivers. Booking are essential
for this; call &03/9510 9081.

Corner of Flinders and Kings St. &03/9923 5999 info line or 03/9923 5925. www.melbourneaquarium.
com.au. Admission A$33 adults, A$19 children 3–15, A$62–A$88 families, extra child A$14. Daily
9:30am–6pm (until 9pm Jan 1–26). Tram: City Circle.

Melbourne Museum


This museum opposite the 19th-century Royal Exhibition
Buildings is Australia’s largest and one of the most interesting. For me, the
highlight is Bunjikata, the award-winning Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander Centre.
Others include a real blue whale skeleton, an indoor rainforest, and a truly bril


13

liant insect and butterfly collection with lots of real-life exhibits, including
cockroaches, ant colonies, and huge spiders. Apart from that, there are interactive
exhibits and science displays, and bits and pieces of social history, including a
stuffed racehorse called Phar Lap. Check out the brightly colored Children’s
Museum, which will bring hours of enjoyment to the little ones. Allow 2 hours.

Melbourne Museum, 11 Nicholson St., Carlton. &13 11 02 in Victoria, 1300/130 152 in Australia or 03/
8341 7777. http://museumvictoria.com.au. Admission A$8 adults, free for children 15 and under. Daily
10am–5pm. Closed Good Friday and Dec 25. Tram: 86 or 96 to the Museum and Royal Exhibition Building
tram stop at the corner of Nicholson and Gertrude sts., or the free City Circle Tram to Carlton Gardens.

Melbourne Zoo


Built in 1862, this is the oldest zoo in the world and
makes a great day out with kids. There are some 3,000 animals here, including
kangaroos, wallabies, echidnas, koalas, wombats, and platypuses. Rather than being
locked in cages, most animals are in almost natural surroundings or well-tended
gardens. Don’t miss the butterfly house, with its thousands of colorful occupants
flying around; the free-flight aviary; the lowland gorilla exhibit; and the treetop
orangutan exhibit. Allow at least 90 minutes if you just want to see the Australian
natives, and around 4 hours for the entire zoo.

Elliott Ave., Parkville. &03/9285 9300. www.zoo.org.au. Admission A$24 adults, A$12 children 4–15,
A$55–A$77 families. Daily 9am–5pm. Free parking. Tram: 55 going north on William St. to stop 25; 19 from
Elizabeth St. to stop 16 (then a short walk to your left, following signposts). Train: Royal Park Station.

National Gallery of Victoria International The NGV International is a showcase
for Australia’s finest collections of international art. There are four Gainsboroughs
and four Constables here, as well as paintings by the likes of Bonnard, Delacroix, Van
Dyck, El Greco, Monet, Manet, Magritte, and Rembrandt. Architecturally, the building
is a masterpiece, with high ceilings, fabulous lighting, and great open spaces.

180 St. Kilda Rd. &03/8620 2222. www.ngv.vic.gov.au. Free admission to general collection; fees for
some temporary exhibitions. Wed–Mon 10am–5pm. Closed Good Friday, Dec 25, and until 1pm on Apr
25 (Anzac Day). Tram: 1, 3, 5, 6, 8, 16, 22, 25, 64, 67, or 72 from Swanston St. to Victorian Arts Centre
stop (ask driver).

National Sports Museum In a nation of sporting enthusiasts, it seems fitting
finally to have a National Sports Museum. This outstanding museum, opened in
March 2008 within the Melbourne Cricket Ground (p. 633), tells Australia’s sporting
story from its early beginnings to the present, celebrating Australian sporting
heroes, memorable moments, and achievements. It covers a range of sports, including
Australian football, basketball, boxing, cricket (it includes the Australian Cricket
Hall of Fame), cycling, golf, hockey, netball, Olympic and Paralympic Games, rugby

MELBOURNE

Seeing the Sights


union, rugby league, soccer, and tennis. It also tells the Melbourne Cricket Ground
(MCG) story, features the Sport Australia Hall of Fame, and includes a large interactive
area. The extensive collection includes Australia’s first ever Olympic gold medal,
Ian Thorpe’s swimsuit, and the Malvern Star bicycle that Hubert Opperman rode in
his record-breaking 24-hour cycling marathon in Sydney in 1940. Allow 1 hour
(more if you are a real sports fan).

During MCG major event days, including the AFL Grand Final, Day 1 of the
Boxing Day Test, and Anzac Day football, access to the National Sports Museum (at
half-price) is restricted to patrons holding an event day ticket. Opening hours on
weekends when events are being held within the MCG arena will vary. Check the
website for details.

Melbourne Cricket Ground, Brunton Ave., Richmond. &03/9657 8879. www.nsm.org.au. Admission
A$15 adults, A$8 children 5–15, or A$50 families of 6 for museum only; A$30 adults, A$12 children, or
A$60 families for museum and MCG tour. Daily 10am–5pm (last admission 4:30pm). Closed Good Friday
and Christmas Day. Bus: Melbourne City Tourist Shuttle. Tram: 75 or 70 from the city center. Train:
Jolimont. Entry is through Gate 3 at the MCG.

Old Melbourne Gaol


This is one of my favorite Melbourne attractions.
Maybe I’m mad to enjoy being locked up in a cell, but the Old Melbourne Gaol’s
Crime & Justice Experience is an interesting way to spend a few hours. Start off at
the historic old prison, with its tiny cells and spooky collection of death masks and
artifacts of 19th-century prison life. Some 135 hangings took place here, including that
of notorious bushranger (and Australian folk hero) Ned Kelly, in 1880. The scaffold
where he was hanged still stands, and his gun, as well as a suit of armor used by a
member of his gang, is on display. The jail closed in 1929. Profiles of former prisoners
give a fascinating perspective of what it was like to be locked up here. Each Saturday,
free performances of “The Real Ned Kelly Story—Such a Life” are held at 12:30 and
2pm. (Be warned: When we attended, a small girl burst into tears.) Then move next
door for a guided tour of the former City Watch House to find out first-hand what it
might have been like to spend time here. The lockup, which operated from 1908 to
1994, is just across the road from the scene of one of Melbourne’s most notorious
crimes, the 1986 bombing of the Russell Street police station. There’s role-playing
involved for everyone, and it can be quite confronting for children. During holiday
times, you can also visit the adjacent former Magistrate’s Court and take part in a
reenactment of a real life court case, the trial of Elizabeth Scott, the first woman
hanged in Victoria. Chilling night tours run every Monday, Wednesday, Friday, and
Saturday, where you can experience the jail by candlelight with a “hangman,” who will
recount stories of the jail, its inmates, and his infamous art—not for the fainthearted
or children under 12. Tickets, available from Ticketek (&13 28 49 or www.ticketek.
com.au), cost A$30 for adults, A$23 for children under 15.

Russell St. &03/9663 7228. www.oldmelbournegaol.com.au. Admission A$21 adults, A$11 children,
A$49 families of 6. Daily 9:30am–5pm. Closed Good Friday and Dec 25. Tram: City Circle to corner of
Russell and Latrobe sts.

Parliament House Victoria Now the home of the Victorian Parliament, this
monument to Victorian (as in Queen Victoria) architecture at the top of a run of
sandstone steps was built in 1856. During the Australian Federation (1900–27), it
was used as the national parliament. When the state government is in session—generally
on Tuesday afternoon and all day Wednesday and Thursday between March

13
MELBOURNE

Seeing the

629


and July, and again between August and November (there’s a break btw. sessions)—
you can view the proceedings from the public gallery. However, you should ring
ahead or check the website, as sitting times do vary. During nonsitting times, both
the opulent Upper House and the less ornate Lower House chambers are open to
the public. Allow 30 minutes.

Spring St. &03/9651 8568. www.parliament.vic.gov.au. Mon–Fri 9am–5pm. Free guided tours Mon–
Fri at 9:30, 10:30, 11:30am, 1:30, 2:30, and 3:45pm when Parliament is not in session. Bookings are not
necessary.

Queen Victoria Market This Melbourne institution covers several blocks.
Ignore the hundreds of stalls selling everything from live rabbits to bargain clothes.

13

There’s a lot of junk here and the crowds can be awful. The best part of the markets
are the indoor food section, particularly the interesting delicatessen section. The
2-hour Foodies Dream Tour


of the market explores its food and heritage and is
well worth doing. It departs Tuesday, Thursday, Friday, and Saturday at 10am and
costs A$35 per person, including generous tastings. Bookings (& 03/9320 5822)
are essential. Night markets are held every Wednesday from 5:30 to 10pm in summer
(from late Nov to late Mar, except the last week of Dec).
Btw. Peel, Victoria, Elizabeth, and Therry sts. on the northern edge of the city center. &03/9320 5822.
www.qvm.com.au. Tues and Thurs 6am–2pm; Fri 6am–5pm; Sat 6am–3pm; Sun 9am–4pm. Closed
public holidays. Tram: Any tram traveling north along William St. or Elizabeth St.

Rippon Lea Estate This grand Victorian house, 8km (5 miles) from the city
center, is worth a visit to get a feel for old-money Melbourne. Socialite Sir Frederick
Thomas Sargood built Rippon Lea House between 1868 and 1903; a pool and ballroom
were added in the 1930s. Though the Romanesque architecture is interesting
(note the stained glass and polychrome brickwork), the downside is that entry to the
house is by guided tour only. (I prefer to wander at my own pace.) The real attraction
is the 5.3 hectares (13 acres) of landscaped gardens, which include a conservatory,
lake, and lookout tower. The tearoom is open on weekends, public holidays, and
during school vacations, from 11am to 4pm. Allow 2 hours.

192 Hotham St., Elsternwick. & 03/9523 6095. Admission A$12 adults, A$6.50 children under 16,
A$30 families of 6; garden only A$7 adults, A$3 children, A$17 families. Daily 10am–5pm (last entry at
4:30pm). Daily guided tours of house every half-hour 10:30am–3:30pm. Closed Good Friday and Dec

25. Tram: 67 to stop 42; then walk up Hotham St. Bus: 216/219 from Bourke and Queen sts. in the city
to stop 4. Train: Sandringham line from Flinders St. station to Rippon Lea station.
St. Patrick’s Cathedral Though lacking the intricacy of design of St. Paul’s (see
below), Roman Catholic St. Patrick’s is another interesting Gothic Revival construction
with exceptional stained-glass windows. Built between 1858 and 1940 (consecrated
in 1897), St. Patrick’s was closely associated with immigrants from Ireland
escaping the mid-19th-century potato famine. In the courtyard out front is a statue
of the Irish patriot Daniel O’Connell.

Corner Gisborne St. and Cathedral Place, East Melbourne. &03/9662 2233. www.stpatrickscathedral.
org.au. Free admission. Mon–Fri 6:30am–6pm; Sat–Sun 7:30am–7:30pm; public holidays 9am–noon.

St. Paul’s Cathedral Built from 1880 to 1892 from the designs of William Butterfield,
a famous English Gothic Revival architect, St. Paul’s Cathedral is noteworthy
for its decorative interior and the English organ built by T. S. Lewis. Step in to see
mosaics on the walls, Victorian tessellated tiles on the floors, woodcarvings, and

MELBOURNE

Seeing the Sights


stained-glass windows. The cathedral sports the second-highest spire (98m/321 ft.) in
the Anglican Communion. A boys’ choir sings at 5:10pm Tuesday through Friday during
school times, and at Sunday services. Outside is a statue of Matthew Flinders, the
first sailor to navigate the Australian mainland between 1801 and 1803.

Flinders and Swanston sts. &03/9650 3791. www.stpaulscathedral.org.au. Sun–Fri 8am–6pm; Sat
9am–5pm. Services Sun 8, 9, and 10:30am; Evensong 6pm. Eucharist Mon–Fri 7:45am, 12:15pm, 5:10pm;
Sat 12:15pm. Cathedral shop daily 9:45am–3:45pm.

Parks & Gardens

Birrarung Marr, along the Yarra River east of Federation Square on Batman Avenue
(& 03/9658 9658; www.melbourne.vic.gov.au/parks), is Melbourne’s first new
major parkland in more than 100 years. Birrarung means “river of mists” in the Woiwurrung
language of the Wurundjeri people who originally inhabited the area; marr
equates with the side of the river. Wide-open spaces and large, sculptured terraces
were designed to host some of Melbourne’s best events and festivals throughout the
year, and the terraces give way to spectacular views of the city, Southbank, King’s
Domain, and the Yarra River.

The Royal Botanic Gardens , 2km (11.4 miles) south of the city on Birdwood
Avenue, off St. Kilda Road (& 03/9252 2429; www.rbg.vic.gov.au), are the
best gardens in Australia and well worth a few hours of wandering. More than 40
hectares (99 acres) are lush and blooming with more than 12,000 plant species from
all over the world. Don’t miss a visit to the oldest part of the garden, the Tennyson
Lawn, with its 120-year-old English elm trees. Other special corners include a fern
gully, camellia gardens, an herb garden, rainforests packed with fruit bats, and ponds
full of ducks and black swans. Take time to do a guided Aboriginal Heritage Walk
through the ancestral lands of the Boonerwrung and Woiwurrung people. The
90-minute walk costs A$25 adults, A$10 children 6 to 17. It will make you look at
the gardens in a different light. Bookings essential on &03/9252 2429. The gardens
are open daily from 7:30am to sunset. Admission is free. To get there, catch the
no. 8 tram traveling south and get off at stop 21. Allow 2 to 4 hours.

Nearby, in King’s Domain, take a look at Victoria’s first Government House,
Latrobe’s Cottage (&03/9656 9800). It was built in England and transported to
Australia brick by brick in 1836. The cottage is open as part of the Government
House tours (bookings essential: &03/9656 9800) on Mondays and Wednesdays.
On the other side of Birdwood Avenue is the Shrine of Remembrance, a memorial
to the servicemen lost in Australia’s wars. It’s designed so that at 11am on
Remembrance Day (Nov 11), a beam of sunlight hits the Stone of Remembrance in
the Inner Shrine. Note the eternal flame in the forecourt. King’s Domain is stop 12
on the no. 15 tram traveling south along St. Kilda Road.

In Fitzroy Gardens, off Wellington Parade, is Cooks’ Cottage (& 03/9419
4677), which was moved to Melbourne from Great Ayton, in Yorkshire, England, in
1934 to mark Victoria’s centenary. The cottage was built by the parents of Captain
Cook, and today it provides the opportunity to learn about his voyages of discovery
around the world. Inside, it’s spartan and cramped, not unlike a ship’s cabin. Admission
is A$4.50 for adults, A$2.20 for children 5 to 15, and A$12 for families. It’s
open daily from 9am to 5pm (except Dec 25). Also east of the central business district
are the Treasury Gardens. Look for the memorial to John F. Kennedy near
the lake. To reach Treasury Gardens and Fitzroy Gardens, take tram no. 48 or 75 (or

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MELBOURNE

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631


the City Circle) traveling east along Flinders Street. Get off at stop 14 for Treasury
Gardens, stop 14A for Fitzroy Gardens.

ENJOYING THE GREAT
OUTDOORS


Outdoor Activities

BALLOONING Balloon Sunrise (& 1800/468 247 in Australia, or 03/9730
2422; fax 03/9730 2433; www.hotairballooning.com.au), offers flights over the city

13
plus a champagne breakfast at the Langham Hotel afterward. Dawn flights cost
A$345 for adults, and A$240 for children ages 6 to 12. Hotel pickup (but not dropoff)
is included. Reservations are essential.

BIKING Extensive bicycle paths wind through the city and suburbs. For details on
popular routes, pick up a copy of Bike Rides Around Melbourne, by Julia Blunden
(Open Spaces Publishing), which has 37 great rides with good directions and clear
maps. Bike Paths Victoria also has some good maps of rides around Melbourne and
Victoria. You can also buy books and maps from Bicycle Victoria, Level 10, 446 Collins
St., Melbourne (&1800/639 634 in Australia, or 03/9636 8888; www.bv.com.
au); it is also worth checking out their website, which is a font of information. Bicycle
Victoria runs several major cycling tours throughout the state every year.

Real Melbourne Bike Tours (&0417/339 203 mobile phone; www.rentabike.
net.au/biketours) can help you find your bearings and discover some of hidden Melbourne
. . . the back streets and bluestone lanes, markets, cafes, arcades, and bike
paths. Run by journalist Murray Johnson, the tours are fun and interesting. The cost
is A$99 adults and A$79 children ages 12 to 18, including bike hire, helmet, guided
tour, and coffee and cake and lunch along the way. There’s even an option to ride an
electric bike if you don’t want to work up a sweat! Tours leave at 10am (or other
times by arrangement) from Rentabike at Federation Square and return around 2pm.
Tours can be customized to suit your needs. Bookings are essential.

GOLF One of the best public golf courses in Australia is Yarra Bend, Yarra Bend
Road, Fairfield (& 03/9481 3729). Greens fees A$24 Monday to Friday, A$25
Saturday and Sunday; juniors pay A$11. Club rental is an extra A$25 for a full set
and A$15 for a half set.

The exclusive Royal Melbourne Golf Club (& 03/9598 6755; www.royal
melbourne.com.au), in the suburb of Black Rock, 24km (15 miles) from the city
center, is rated as one of the world’s 10 best golf courses. If you have a letter of
introduction from your golf club at home, a handicap of under 26 for men and 45
for women, and don’t mind the greens fees—A$200 for Australian visitors, A$300
for overseas visitors—you might be able to get a round. Club hire is A$55. For more
information on golf in Victoria, contact the Victorian Golf Association, 15 Bardolph
St., Burwood (&03/9889 6731; www.golfvic.org.au).

TENNIS The venue for the Australian Open, the Melbourne Park National
Tennis Centre, on Batman Avenue (& 1300/836 647 in Australia, or 03/9286
1244; www.mopt.com.au), is a great place to play. When tournaments are not scheduled,
its 22 outdoor courts (including the show courts) and seven indoor courts are
open to the public. You can rent courts Monday through Friday from 7am to 11pm,

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Enjoying the Great Outdoors


Saturday and Sunday from 9am to 6pm. Charges range from A$26 to A$40 per hour,
depending on the court and time (outdoor courts are cheapest). Show courts 1, 2,
and 3 are for rent at the same prices. Rackets are available for hire.

Spectator Sports

CAR RACING The annual Australian Formula One Grand Prix takes place
in March at Albert Park, about 3km (2 miles) from central Melbourne. Call Ticketek
(& 13 28 49 in Australia) or check out the Grand Prix’s website at www.
grandprix.com.au for information on tickets, accommodations, and airfares.

CRICKET From October through March, cricket’s the name of the game in Melbourne.
The Melbourne Cricket Ground (MCG), Brunton Avenue, Yarra Park,
Jolimont, is perhaps Australia’s most hallowed cricket field. The facility (the main
stadium for the 1956 Melbourne Olympic games) can accommodate 97,500 people.
For the uninitiated, “one-day” games are the ones to look out for; “Test” games take
several days to complete. Buy tickets at the gate or in advance from Ticketmaster
(&13 61 00 in Australia; www.ticketmaster.com).

Tours of the MCG (& 03/9657 8864; www.mcg.org.au) start every half-hour
daily from 10am to 3pm. Tours take about an hour and cost A$30 for adults, A$15
for children 5 to 15, or A$60 for a family of six, including admission to the new
National Sports Museum, which is also at the MCG (see p. 628). Tours leave from
Gate 3 in the Olympic Stand on nonevent days only.

FOOTBALL Melbourne’s number-one sport is Australian Rules football—or
simply “the footy”—a skillful, fast, and sometimes violent game the likes of which
you’ve never seen (unless you have ESPN). Melbourne is home to 10 of the 16
Australian Football League (AFL) teams, with the others coming from Adelaide,
Perth, Sydney, and Brisbane. The season starts on the third weekend in March and
ends with the Grand Final on the last Saturday in September. The most accessible
fields are at the Melbourne Cricket Ground (take tram no. 75 along Wellington
Parade), Etihad Stadium (behind Southern Cross station on Spencer St.), and the
Optus Oval at Carlton (take tram no. 19 from Elizabeth St.). The cheapest tickets
cost around A$25 per person, or A$60 for families of four. For game information, call
AFL Headquarters (& 03/8663 3000; www.afl.com.au). Buy tickets through
Ticketmaster (&1300/136 122 in Australia; www.ticketmaster.com.au).

Melbourne’s newest stadium, with capacity for 30,000 spectators, opened in May
2010 as the home of three other forms of football—soccer, rugby league, and
rugby union. The “Rectangular Stadium” is officially known as AAMI Park (an
insurance company holds naming rights). It is located on Olympic Boulevard, in the
Melbourne and Olympic Parks complex (www.mopt.com.au).

HORSE RACING The Melbourne Cup, on the first Tuesday in November, has
been contested by the best of Australia’s thoroughbreds (and a few from overseas)
since 1861. Melbourne society puts on a show, dressing up for the occasion, and the
entire nation stops in its tracks to at least tune in on TV.

The city has four racetracks: Flemington (which holds the Melbourne Cup), 400
Epsom Rd., Flemington (& 1300/727 575 in Australia, or 03/8378 0888; www.
vrc.net.au); Moonee Valley, McPherson Street, Mooney Ponds (& 03/9373
2222; www.mvrc.net.au); Caulfield, Station Street, Caulfield (&03/9257 7200;
www.melbourneracingclub.net.au); and Sandown, Racecourse Drive, Springvale

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MELBOURNE

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633


MELBOURNE

Shopping

(&03/9518 1300). If you’re staying in the city center, Flemington and Moonee Valley
are the easiest to get to. Take tram no. 57 from Flinders Street to reach the Flemington
racetrack, and catch tram no. 59 from Elizabeth Street to Moonee Valley.

TENNIS The Australian Open , one of the four Grand Slam events, is played
during the last 2 weeks of January every year at the Melbourne Park National
Tennis Centre, Batman Avenue (& 03/9286 1244). Tickets go on sale in mid-
October and are available through Ticketek (&13 28 49; www.ticketek.com.au)
and on the Open’s website, www.australianopen.com. To get there, take a train
from the Flinders Street station at the bottom of Swanston Street to Richmond Station,
and catch the special Tennis Centre tram from there.

13

SHOPPING

Ask almost any Melbournian to help you plan your time in the city, and he or she
will advise you to shop until you drop. All Australia regards Melbourne as a shopping
capital—it has everything from fashion houses to major department stores and
unusual souvenir shops. So even if you’re also visiting Sydney, save your money until
you get to Melbourne, and then indulge!

Start at the magnificent city arcades, such as the Block Arcade (btw. Collins and
Little Collins sts.), which has more than 30 shops, including the historic Hopetoun
Tearooms (p. 622), and the Royal Arcade (stretching from Little Collins St. to the
Bourke St. Mall). Then hit the courts and lanes around Swanston Street and the huge
Melbourne Central shopping complex between Latrobe and Lonsdale streets.

Next, fan out across the city, taking in Chapel Street in South Yarra, for its
Australian fashions, and the Jam Factory, 500 Chapel St., South Yarra, which is a
series of buildings with a range of shops and food outlets, including a large branch
of Borders bookshop, as well as 16 cinema screens. Get there on tram no. 8 or 72
from Swanston Street.

There’s also Toorak Road in Toorak, for Gucci and other high-priced, highfashion
names; Bridge Road in Richmond, for budget fashions; Lygon Street in
Carlton, for Italian fashion, footwear, and accessories; and Brunswick Street in
Fitzroy, for a more alternative scene.

Serious shoppers might like to contact Shopping Spree Tours (& 03/9596
6600; www.shoppingspree.com.au), a company that takes you on a day tour of 8 to
10 factories and warehouses for bargains you might not find by yourself. Tours
depart Monday through Saturday (except public holidays) at 8:20am and cost A$110
for adults and A$55 for children under 11, including lunch. They will pick you up
at one of six hotel locations in the city center.

Melbourne Shopping From A to Z

ABORIGINAL ART & CRAFTWORK
Aboriginal Galleries of Australia This private gallery stocks an extensive range
of paintings by some of Australia’s most famous indigenous artists, including Emily
Kame Kngwarreye, Minnie Pwerle, Clifford Possum, and Kathleen Petyarre. 35 Spring
St. &03/9654 2516. www.agamelbourne.com.

Gallery Gabrielle Pizzi One of Melbourne’s most respected dealers in Aboriginal
art. You will find paintings by artists from the communities of Papunya, Utopia,


Haasts Bluff, and the Tiwi Islands, among others. This gallery also showcases urban
indigenous artists working in contemporary media. Closed Saturday mornings, Sundays,
and Mondays. Level 3, 75-77 Flinders Lane. &03/9654 2944. www.gabriellepizzi.com.au.

Original & Authentic Aboriginal Art Stop here for original artworks and traditional
bark paintings from the Central Western Desert, the Kimberley, and Arnhemland.
They also sell boomerangs, didgeridoos, clap sticks, and Aboriginal glass
art. 90 Bourke St. &03/9663 5133. www.authaboriginalart.com.au.

CRAFTS

A good arts-and-crafts market is held on the Esplanade in St. Kilda on Sundays
from 9am to 4pm. Take tram no. 16 from Swanston Street or no. 96 from Bourke
Street. Another is at the Arts Centre on St. Kilda Road, near Princes Bridge.

The Australian Geographic Shop Head here for high-quality Australiana,
including crafts, books, and various gadgets. Shop 253, Melbourne Central, La Trobe St.
and Elizabeth St. &03/8616 6726; and Galleria Shopping Plaza, Elizabeth St. at Little Collins
St. &03/8616 6735.

Counter Run by Craft Victoria, this basement shop and gallery features handmade
pieces—including lovely scarves and shoes—by local craftsmen. This is the
place to find one-off originals. 31 Flinders Lane. &03/9650 7775. www.craftvic.asn.au.

DEPARTMENT STORES
David Jones Like Myer (see below), its direct competition, David Jones—or
DJ’s, as it’s affectionately known—spans 2 blocks, separated into men’s and women’s
stores, and offers similar goods. Don’t miss the food hall. 310 Bourke St. Mall. &03/
9643 2222. www.davidjones.com.au.

Myer This is the grand dame of Melbourne’s department stores and is in hot
competition with David Jones. It has household goods, perfume, jewelry, and fashions,
as well as a food section. The clothes here are usually more modern and stylish
than those at David Jones. 295 Lonsdale St. Mall. &03/9661 1111. www.myer.com.au.

FASHION

High-fashion boutiques line the eastern stretch of Collins Street, between the Grand
Hyatt and the Hotel Sofitel, and Chapel Street in South Yarra. In addition, thousands
of retail shops and factory outlets are around the city, many of them on Bridge Road
near Punt Road and Swan Street near Church Street in Richmond. You’ll find
designer clothes, many just last season’s fashions, at a fraction of the original price.

In the city, the hottest new fashion center is the QV building, which takes up a
whole block, bordered by Swanston, Russell, Lonsdale, and Little Lonsdale streets.
Despite its size, it has a nice feel to it. This is where you will find, tucked into QV’s
laneways, top Australian and international designers. The premium fashion alley is
Albert Coates Lane, where you’ll find the likes of Christensen Copenhagen, Cactus
Jam, and Wayne Cooper.

Collins Street features most international labels, as well as shoe heaven Miss Louise,
205 Collins St. (&03/9654 7730). Nearby Flinders Lane has earned style status
with the likes of Christine, 181 Flinders Lane (&03/9654 2011), where women are
reputed to sometimes faint over the accessories. Down the road is Little Collins
Street, another fashion-rat run. Look for local labels Bettina Liano (& 03/9654
1912), Scanlan & Theodore (& 03/9650 6195), and Verve (& 03/9639 5886).

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635


Alice Euphemia, in Cathedral Arcade, 37 Swanston St. (& 03/9650 4300), also
stocks upcoming Australian and New Zealand designers.

Country Road Country Road is one of Australia’s best-known names for men’s
and women’s fashion. The cool, classic looks don’t come cheap, but the quality is
worth it. County Road also sells designer cooking equipment and housewares. 260
Collins St. and Melbourne Central on Lonsdale St., and other locations, including Toorak Rd.,
South Yarra. &1800/801 911 in Australia, or 03/9650 5288. www.countryroad.com.au.

Ozmosis In addition to surfboards, boogie boards, and sunglasses, this store
stocks a wide range of hip and happening beachwear at reasonable prices. All the big
names in Australian surf wear are here, including Ripcurl, Quicksilver, and Billa


13

bong. 2 Melbourne Central, Lonsdale St. &03/9662 3815. www.ozmosis.com.au.

Saba Australian designer Joseph Saba has several in-vogue, very expensive boutiques
for men and women in Melbourne, including one in the Melbourne Central
complex. 234 Collins St. &03/9654 3524. www.saba.com.au.

Sam Bear Sam Bear is a good bet for Outback-style fashions: Driza-bone coats,
Akubra bush hats, R. M. Williams boots and clothing, and Blundstone boots. It also
sells a solid range of camping equipment. 225 Russell St. &03/9663 2191. www.sam
bear.com.au.

Vegan Wares Instead of leather, Vegan Wares uses microfiber to create tough,
stylish shoes, bags, and belts. It’s not just for vegetarians; carnivores enjoy it, too! 78
Smith St., Collingwood. &03/9417 0230. www.veganwares.com.

FOOD
Haigh’s Chocolates Indulge in some 50 types of Australia’s best chocolate, from
milk to dark to fruit-flavored. Try the Sparkling Shiraz truffle if you need a serious
treat. 26 Collins St. &03/9650 2114; Shop 6, 191 Swanston Walk &03/9662 2262; and
Shop 7–8, Block Arcade, 282 Collins St. &03/9654 7673. www.haighschocolates.com.

JEWELRY
Altmann & Cherny Even if you’re not in the market to buy, it’s worth coming here
to check out “Olympic Australis,” the largest precious-gem opal in the world. It was
found in Coober Pedy in South Australia in 1956 and is valued at A$2.5 million. The
store offers tax-free shopping for tourists armed with both a passport and an international
airline ticket. 128 Exhibition St. &03/9650 9685. www.almanncherny.com.au.

Dinosaur Designs Dinosaur Designs is taking the jewelry design world by storm
with its range of artistic pieces made out of resin. The shop has modern housewares
as well. None of it’s cheap, but the odd item won’t break the bank. 562 Chapel St.,
South Yarra. &03/9827 2600. www.dinosaurdesigns.com.au.

e.g.etal Shop here for fresh, innovative jewelry by 50 or so of Australia’s leading and
emerging designers. Basement, 167 Flinders Lane. &03/9639 5111. www.egetal.com.au.

MELBOURNE AFTER DARK

Melbourne can be an exciting place once the sun has set. The pubs and bars are far
better than those in Sydney. Friday and Saturday nights will see most pubs (of both
the trendy and the down-to-earth variety) packed to the rafters, and at lunchtime

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Melbourne After Dark


those that serve food are popular, too. To find out what’s happening, check the Friday
entertainment guide in The Age, Melbourne’s daily broadsheet.

The Performing Arts

Melbourne is the most dynamic performing-arts city in Australia. Its theaters offer
the gamut, from offbeat independent productions to large-scale Broadway-style
musicals. The city is also the home of the most prestigious festivals, with the annual
Melbourne Fringe Festival (3 weeks in late Sept/early Oct; www.melbourne
fringe.com.au) and the annual Melbourne International Comedy Festival (Mar
30–Apr 24, 2011; www.comedyfestival.com.au), attracting top Australian and international
talent.

Venues all over the city participate in the Melbourne International Comedy Festival,
and the Fringe Festival sees the streets, pubs, theaters, and restaurants playing
host to everyone from jugglers and fire-eaters to musicians and independent productions
covering all art forms. Try to get tickets if you’re in town during either festival,
but keep in mind that hotels fill up fast at these times. Another good time to plan
your visit is during the annual Melbourne International Film Festival (late July
through early Aug; www.melbournefilmfestival.com.au), when new releases, shorts,
and avant-garde movies play at venues around the city. In 2011, the festival will
celebrate 60 years.

The official government entertainment information site, www.thatsmelbourne.
com.au/whatson, shows “What’s On” in the theater world for up to a month in
advance, as well as what’s happening in dance, film, comedy, music, exhibitions,
sports, and tours.

The best place to buy tickets for everything from theater to major sporting events,
and to obtain details on schedules, is Ticketmaster (& 13 61 00 in Australia;
www.ticketmaster.com.au).

The Heart of Melbourne’s Cultural Life

The Arts Centre


The spire atop the Theatres Building of the Arts Centre,
on the banks of the Yarra River, crowns the city’s leading performing arts complex.
Beneath it, the State Theatre, the Playhouse, and the Fairfax Studio present performances
that are the focal point of culture in Melbourne.
The State Theatre, seating 2,085 on three levels, can accommodate elaborate
stagings of opera, ballet, musicals, and more. The Playhouse is a smaller venue that
often books the Melbourne Theatre Company. The Fairfax is more intimate still
and is often used for experimental theater or cabaret. Adjacent to the Theatres
Building is Hamer Hall, home of the Melbourne Symphony Orchestra and often
host to visiting orchestras. Many international stars have graced this stage, which is
known for its excellent acoustics. Hamer Hall is currently undergoing a major
revamp as part of an a$128.5 million redevelopment of the Southbank Cultural
Precinct, expected to be completed sometime in 2012. Until it reopens, the Melbourne
Symphony Orchestra will hold most of its concerts in the Melbourne Town Hall.

Guided tours of the Arts Centre are run at 11am Monday to Saturday, and backstage
tours on Sundays at 12:15pm. Tours cost A$15 adults and A$30 for a family of
two adults and two or more children. On Sundays, they cost A$20 per person (no
children under 12). Buy tickets from the concierge in the foyer of the Theatres
Building.

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637


Half-Price Tickets
Buy tickets for entertainment events,
including opera, dance, and drama, on
the day of the performance from the
Half-Tix Desk (www.halftixmelbourne.
com) in the Melbourne Town Hall on
Swanston Street. The booth is open
Monday from 10am to 2pm, Tuesday
through Thursday 11am to 6pm, Friday
11am to 6:30pm, and Saturday 10am to
4pm (also selling for Sun shows). Tickets
must be purchased in person and in
cash. Available shows are displayed on
the booth door and on the website.

13

100 St. Kilda Rd. &1300/136 166 for tickets (plus a A$7.15 booking fee), or 03/9281 8000. Fax 03/9281
8282. www.theartscentre.net.au. Ticket prices vary depending on the event. Box office 9am–9pm Mon–
Sat in the Theatres Building.

Additional Venues & Theaters

Check The Age to see what productions are scheduled during your visit. Odds are
that the leading shows will take place in one of the following venues.

The Comedy Club The Comedy Club is a Melbourne institution. Come here to
see local and international comedy acts, musicals, and special shows. It offers a dinner
and show Friday and Saturday for A$48 and A$52. Discount ticket offers can
bring the show-only prices down to as low as A$8 sometimes, so ask what’s on offer.

Athenaeum Theatre, 188 Collins St. &03/9650 6668. www.thecomedyclub.com.au.

The Comedy Theatre The Comedy Theatre, with its ornate Spanish rococo
interior, feels intimate even though it seats more than 1,000 people. Plays and musicals
usually fill the bill, but dance companies and comedians also appear. 240 Exhibition
St. (at Lonsdale St.). &03/9299 4950. www.marrinertheatres.com.au.

The Forum Theatre The Forum books well-known bands and international
comedians. Tables and chairs are in cabaret-style booths, from which you can order
drinks and meals. 154 Flinders St. &03/9299 9700. www.marrinertheatres.com.au.

Her Majesty’s Theatre A fire destroyed the original theater here, but the current
structure, revamped in 2002, retains the original facade and the Art Deco interior
added during a 1936 renovation. Musicals, such as Mamma Mia!, Billy Elliot, and
Mary Poppins, frequent the boards. 219 Exhibition St. All bookings through Ticketek.
&1300/792 012. www.hmt.com.au.

The Princess Theatre This huge facility hosts extravaganza productions such as
The Producers and Jersey Boys. The theater opened its doors in 1886, and it still has
a dramatic marble staircase and ornate plaster ceilings. 163 Spring St. & 03/9299
9800. www.marrinertheatres.com.au.

The Regent Theatre Built in 1929, the Regent fell into disrepair, and its stage
was dark for 25 years. Now, after a A$35-million renovation, it’s been restored to its
former glory. The theater offers a range of dining packages and has recently been home
to the production of West Side Story. 191 Collins St. &03/9299 9500. www.marriner
theatres.com.au.

Sidney Myer Music Bowl This huge outdoor entertainment center, run under
the auspices of the Arts Centre, is the venue for major concerts, opera, jazz, and

MELBOURNE

Melbourne After Dark


ballet in the warmer months. It is the venue for Carols by Candlelight and the Melbourne
Symphony Orchestra’s free summer concert series. It seats 2,000 people,
with room for another 11,000 on the lawns. King’s Domain, Linlithgow Ave. Bookings
through Ticketmaster. &1300/136 166.

Cinemas

Most of the city cinemas are within 2 blocks of the intersection of Bourke and Russell
streets. Tickets usually cost around A$15 for adults. Among the independent
cinemas, the one that stands out is the Astor, 1 Chapel St. (at Dandenong Rd.),
East St. Kilda (&03/9510 1414). Housed in a superb Art Nouveau building, the
Astor shows a mix of classic movies and interesting recent releases.

The Bar & Music Scene

Melbourne’s nightclub scene used to center on King Street, and while that area is
still popular with large disco-style venues, the city is now awash in unique, hidden
bars and clubs. It’s best just to follow the crowds—or in some cases, that couple
slipping down a side lane and disappearing into a dimly lit entrance. Otherwise, the
options below are more enduring in their appeal.

Bellavista Social Club Owned by the team at Becco (see “Where to Dine,”
earlier in this chapter), BVSC is upstairs from the popular restaurant, in a converted
diamond-cutting workshop. Ultramodern in a microsuede way, this place jumps with
a late-night crowd of many splendid hues—arty young things mingling with the
suits, all watching the goings-on in the laneway below on a large-screen hookup.
Open Wednesday to Saturday 6pm to 3am. 11–25 Crossley St. &03/9663 3000. www.
becco.com.au.

Bennetts Lane Jazz Club


Often exceptional and always varied, this venue has
a reputation as the best jazz club in Australia and is sought out by the best international
players. The back-lane location may be a little hard to find, but that doesn’t stop it being
packed out most nights. Get there early if you want a table, otherwise it’s standing room
only or a perch on the steps at the back. Open every night from 8:30pm (music starts at
9:30pm). 25 Bennetts Lane. & 03/9663 2856. www.bennettslane.com. Entry prices vary
depending on the performer, but start at around A$20.
Chaise Lounge Any semblance of barroom normality breaks down at this chic
boudoir-style place featuring lipstick-colored walls, a bust of a Roman god, diamante-
strung curtains, lounges, and glitter balls. It’s open from 4:30pm to 3am
Friday and 9pm to 3am Saturday. Basement, 105 Queen St. & 03/9670 6120. www.
chaiselounge.com.au.

Cicciolina Back Bar This softly lit, alluring hideaway offers plush leather booths
and a fine range of cocktails. Add an attentive staff, and you’ve got one of the best
little bars in the greater St. Kilda region. Open Monday to Saturday 4:30pm to 1am,
Sunday 3:30 to 11pm. 130 Acland St. (enter from arcade), St. Kilda. &03/9525 3333.
www.cicciolinastkilda.com.au.

Cookie This unlikely combination of good-value Thai eatery, beer hall, and smart
cocktail bar, complete with plastic doilies and murals gets packed after work is done
for the day. It’s open from noon to 3am daily. 252 Swanston St. &03/9663 7660. www.
cookie.net.au.

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The Croft Institute This laneway (at the end of an alley) bar is a small, lurid,
bottle-green establishment, which is notably famous for its powerful cocktails and
the city’s largest private collection of laboratory apparatus. For the young only. Open
Monday to Thursday 5pm to 1am, Friday 5pm to 3am, and Saturday 8pm to 3am.

21–25 Croft Alley. &03/9671 4399. www.thecroftinstitute.net.

Double Happiness This tiny but hugely atmospheric bar is detail at its best. The
retro-Asian theme would make Chairman Mao proud. Mix with the hip crowd from
the business world, and try the “Gang of Four” cocktail (mango, vodka, Cointreau,
and lemon). Open Monday to Wednesday 5pm to 1am, Thursday 5pm to 3am, Friday
4:30pm to 3am, Saturday 6pm to 3am, Sunday 6pm to 1am. 21 Liverpool St. (off

13 Bourke St.). &03/9650 4488. www.double-happiness.org.

1806 Did you know this was the year the word cocktail was first used in print?
Neither did I, until I slipped inside the discreet red door of this seductive bar, sank
into a leather wing chair, and opened up the drinks menu. One of Melbourne’s best
bars, this is a sophisticated, comfortable, and smooth place to hang out. The staff are
attentive and smart, the crowd mixed, and the cocktails range from inventive to classic.
It’s open Monday to Thursday 5pm to 3am, Friday 4pm to 5am, Saturday 6pm to 5am,
and Sunday 7pm to 3am. 169 Exhibition St. &03/9663 7722. www.1806.com.au.

Hi-Fi Bar & Ballroom Featuring lots of live music—mostly of the hard rock and
contemporary persuasion—and patronized by the younger set, this cavernous underground
venue features many visiting acts. Ticket prices vary but can be anywhere
between A$15 and A$75. 125 Swanson St. (opposite Melbourne Town Hall). &1300/843
4434. www.thehifi.com.au.

Jimmy Watson’s Wine Bar Jimmy’s is something of an institution. One of Melbourne’s
oldest wine bars, it’s a cozy affair where all types of people chat while sampling
a vast range of wines. In the attached dining area, excellent food is expertly
teamed with the perfect wine. Come to talk or simply read the paper. Open daily noon
to 3pm, Tuesday to Saturday 6pm till late. 333 Lygon St., Carlton. &03/9347 3985.

KingPin Why not combine your love for bowling and drinking? Experience the
purple lounge, which really mixes it up, with cool DJs and great cocktails. This
venue in the Crown Casino complex is open until 2am, so happy days really are here
again. Bowling costs A$14 for the first game and A$10 for extra games until 6pm
every day; A$18 for the first game and A$16 after 6pm on Friday and Saturday; or
A$16 and A$12 after 6pm Sunday to Thursday. Shoe hire is included. 8 Whiteman
St., Southbank. &13 26 95 in Australia, or 03/8646 4100. www.kingpinbowling.com.au.

Melbourne Supper Club Upstairs from an ever-popular European cafe/restaurant,
the Melbourne Supper Club is a perfect post-theater venue. Deep leather
lounges and a giant circular window that looks onto the beautifully lit Parliament
House buildings make this bar a place to idle, smoke a cigar, or dwell over a bottle
of your favorite wine. It’s open Sunday and Monday 7pm to 4am, Tuesday to Thursday
5pm to 4am, Friday 5pm to 6am, and Saturday 8pm to 6am. 161 Spring St.

&03/9654 6300.

Misty Funk meets Barbarella in this ultrahip and arty venue, one of the quintessential
Melbourne bars. Here, down a cobbled lane (and then upstairs), smooth

MELBOURNE

Melbourne After Dark


cocktails mix with live combos or soulful DJs. Open Tuesday to Thursday 5pm to 1am,
Friday 5pm to 3am, and Saturday 6pm to 3am. 3–5 Hosier Lane. &03/9663 9202.

Paris Cat This is an intimate jazz bar that doesn’t take itself too seriously. Head
down the stairs into an inviting space with warm brick walls, cozy tables, lounges,
bar stools, and jazz-themed art on the walls. You might hear local musicians with
original music, or top international acts. A very cool place, with a great atmosphere.
Open Tuesday to Saturday from 8pm. The cover varies from free to around A$20. 6
Goldie Place. &03/9642 4711. www.pariscat.com.au.

Tony Starr’s Kitten Club Don’t be put off by the name—this is one great place.
A restaurant-bar on the lower level serves an array of excellent tapas and more exotic
fare. But the action is at the upstairs Galaxy Space, where most nights you’ll find
entertainment ranging from the peculiar to the animated to the just plain bizarre.
Don’t forget to visit the Love Lounge, with its floor-to-ceiling red fabric, heartshaped
lounges, and secluded booths. Opens at 4pm daily until 1am Monday to
Thursday, 3am Friday and Saturday, and midnight on Sundays. Cover is usually A$5.

267 Little Collins St. &03/9650 2448. www.kittenclub.com.au.

Troika Here you’ll find industrial chic with heart. Behind a heavy metal sliding
door, with a cool concrete-floor interior livened with spots of color, this stylish bar is
frequented by the arts and design crowd. The drink prices are great value for an
inner-city bar, and there’s a covered courtyard out the back for smokers. Open Tuesday
and Wednesday 4pm to midnight, Thursday and Friday 4pm to 2am, Saturday
5pm to 3am. 106 Little Lonsdale St. &03/9663 0221.

Where to Share a Pint

Pubs generally stay open from midmorning until at least midnight most nights.
Many remain open until 2 or 3am on Friday and Saturday nights, and you can always
find a few open 24 hours.

Belgian Beer Cafe Bluestone Pretend that you’re in Brussels in this atmospheric
cafe featuring Belgian beer culture in all its forms. Full-bodied Belgian
brews dominate. While downing your pint, try the traditional steamed mussels. In
warmer weather, sitting in the parklike garden is a delight. There’s live music on
Sundays from 4 to 7pm. It’s open daily 11am till late. 557 St. Kilda Rd. & 03/9529
2899. www.belgianbeercafemelbourne.com.

Prince of Wales Hotel This pub is a legend among the locals. Though the
accommodation at the back has been gentrified in a big way, the pub itself retains
its original rough-at-the-edges appearance. A huge blackboard at the front lets you
know which bands, some of them big names, will be playing, and you can buy tickets
for the gigs at the bar. Open every day except New Year’s Day until 2 or 3am. 29
Fitzroy St. (at Acland St.), St. Kilda. &03/9536 1111. www.princebars.com.au.

Windsor Castle Do elephants fly? They do at the Windsor Castle—and they’re
pink! Head up Chapel Street and through Prahran to Windsor and its best-kept
secret, the Windsor Castle Hotel, a perfect weekend meeting place for good pub
food, which you can enjoy in the sunny courtyard or in the plush interior. You’ll find
DJs and barbecue on weekends. Look for the giant pink elephants on the roof. 89
Albert St. (at Upton St.), Windsor. &03/9525 0239.

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Pick a Card . . . for a Unique Pub-Crawl
All the rage in Melbourne (and developed
by clever Melbourne girl Michelle
Matthews) is a pack of 52 playing cards
called Bar Secrets Melbourne. The
cards have pictures of and information
(including maps) on the hippest and
most unusual pubs and cocktail bars in
town. Locals pick out a few at random,
and the night’s planned. The cards cost
A$9.95 at bookshops and newsdealers,
or you can buy them online at www.
bar-secrets.com. They are well worth
seeking out. You will find yourself
weaving up dark alleyways, climbing
into lofts and down into basements,
and always faced with something
unique.

MELBOURNE

Side Trips from Melbourne

Young & Jackson Melbourne’s oldest and most famous pub is a great place to
stop in for a drink, or a meal in the stylish upstairs restaurant or bistro areas. Head
upstairs to see the nude Chloe, a famous painting brought to Melbourne for the
Great Exhibition in 1880. The pub, which was built in 1853 and started selling beer
in 1861, has a few years on Chloe, which was painted in Paris in 1875. The painting
has a special place in the hearts of customers and Melbournians. The pub opens at
10am daily (9am on weekends) and closes at midnight every day except Friday and
Saturday, when it is open until 3am. At the corner of Flinders and Swanston sts.
&03/9650 3884. www.youngandjacksons.com.au.

The Casino

Crown Casino Australia’s largest casino is a plush affair that’s open 24 hours. You’ll
find all the usual roulette and blackjack tables and so on, as well as an array of gaming
machines. This is also a major venue for international headline acts, and there are
around 25 restaurants and 11 bars on the premises, with more in the extended Southgate
complex. See p. 612 for a review of the casino’s attached hotel, the Crown Towers.
Clarendon St., Southbank. &03/9292 6868. www.crowncasino.com.au.

SIDE TRIPS FROM MELBOURNE

Dandenong Ranges

40km (25 miles) E of Melbourne

Melbournians traditionally do a “day in the Dandenongs” from time to time, topping off
their getaway with Devonshire tea, scones, and jam at one of the many cafes en route.
Up in the cool, high country, you’ll find native bush, famous gardens, the Dandenong
Ranges National Park, historic attractions such as the Puffing Billy—a vintage steam
train—and plenty of restaurants and cozy B&Bs. The Dandenong Ranges National Park
is one of the state’s oldest, set aside in 1882 to protect its mountain ash forests and lush
tree-fern gullies. Parts of the Dandenongs were affected by the 2009 summer bushfires,
but by the time you visit the process of regeneration will be well underway.

ESSENTIALS
GETTING THERE To get to the area, take the Burwood Highway from Melbourne,
and then the Mount Dandenong Tourist Road, which starts at Upper Ferntree


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Gully and winds through the villages of Sassafras, Olinda, Mount Dandenong, and
Kalorama to Montrose. If you take a turnoff to Sherbrook, or extend your journey
into a loop taking in Seville, Woori Yallock, Emerald, and Belgrave, you’ll see a fair
slice of the local scenery. A really good tour operator is A Tour with a Difference
(&1300/36 27 36 in Australia, or 03/9754 1699; www.atwad.com.au). They pick
up from Melbourne hotels in a 10-person bus and do lots of great things in the
Dandenongs, including a ride on the Puffing Billy. The tour costs A$165 and
includes morning tea, lunch, and all entry fees.

VISITOR INFORMATION The Dandenong Ranges & Knox Visitor Information
Centre, 1211 Burwood Hwy., Upper Ferntree Gully, VIC 3156 (&1800/13 645 505 in Australia, or 03/9758 7522; fax 03/9758 7533; www.dandenongranges
tourism.com.au), is open daily (except Good Friday and Dec 25) from 9am to 5pm.

NATURE WALKS

Most people come here to get out of the city for a pleasant bushwalk, and in that
way it’s the equivalent of Sydney’s Blue Mountains. Some of the better walks include
the easy 2.5km (1.5-mile) stroll from the Sherbrook Picnic Ground through the
forest, and the Thousand Steps and the Kokoda Track Memorial Walk, a challenging
rainforest track from the Fern Tree Gully Picnic Ground up to One Tree
Hill. Along the way are plaques commemorating Australian troops who fought and
died in Papua New Guinea in World War II.

FOR GARDENING BUFFS
National Rhododendron Gardens From September through November, thousands
of rhododendrons and azaleas burst into bloom in these magnificent gardens.
There are 42 hectares (104 acres) in all, with a 3km (1.8-mile) walking path leading
past flowering exotics and native trees as well as vistas over the Yarra Valley. In
spring, the Garden Explorer people-mover helps get you around. Visitors flock here
in summer for the walks, and in autumn when the leaves are turning.

The Georgian Rd., Olinda. &13 19 63 or 03/8627 4699. www.parkweb.vic.gov.au. Admission Sept–Nov
A$11 adults, A$5.60 children 15–17, A$28 families; Dec–Aug A$7.10 adults, A$3.20 children, A$17 families.
Children 14 and under free. Daily 10am–5pm. Closed Dec 25. Train to Croydon; then bus no. 688 to the
gardens, or train to Belgrave and bus no. 694.

Tesselaar’s Bulbs and Flowers Tens of thousands of flowers are on display at
this gardening center, putting on a flamboyantly colorful show in the spring (mid-Sept
to mid-Oct). Expect to see a dazzling variety of tulips, daffodils, rhododendrons, azaleas,
fuchsias, and ranunculi. Bulbs are on sale at discount prices at other times.

357 Monbulk Rd., Silvan. &1300/428 527 in Australia or 03/9737 7701. www.tesselaar.net.au. Admission
during Tulip Festival (mid-Sept to mid-Oct) A$16 adults, free for children 15 and under accompanied
by an adult; free for everyone rest of the year. During tulip festival daily 10am–5pm; rest of year
Mon–Fri 8:30am–4:30pm, Sat–Sun 1–5pm. Free parking. Train: Lilydale; then bus no. 679.

William Ricketts Sanctuary


This interesting garden, in a forest of mountain
ash, features almost 100 clay figures representing the Aboriginal Dreamtime. The
sculptures were created over the lifetime of sculptor William Ricketts, who died in
1993 at the age of 94. The garden encompasses fern gullies and waterfalls spread
out over 13 hectares (32 acres), with the sculptures occupying a little less than a
hectare (2 acres).
MELBOURNE

Side Trips from Melbourne


Mt. Dandenong Tourist Rd., Mt. Dandenong. &13 19 63 or 03/9751 1300. www.parkweb.vic.gov.au.
Admission A$7.10 adults, A$3.20 children 15–17, A$17 families of 5. Children 14 and under free. Daily
10am–4:30pm. Closed Dec 25 and days of total fire ban. Train to Croydon; then bus no. 688.

FOR TRAIN BUFFS
Puffing Billy Railway


For almost a century, Puffing Billy steam railway has
chugged over a 13km (8-mile) track from Belgrave to Emerald and Lakeside. Passengers
ride on open carriages—often dangling their legs from the “windows”—and enjoy
lovely views as the train passes through forests and fern gullies and over a National
Trust–classified wooden trestle bridge. Trips take around an hour each way, and there’s
time to walk around the lake before the return journey. Timetables can be complicated
and change, so check the website to ensure you have the right information. Special
“Steam and Cuisine” fares (A$95 adults; A$86 children) including a three-course
lunch in a “first class” enclosed carriage with white tablecloths and wine, are also available
daily, and on Friday and Saturday nights you can take the train to dinner at a
historic packing shed for A$84. Trains do not run on days of total fire ban.
Belgrave Station, Belgrave. &03/9757 0700 or 1900/937 069 (recorded information). www.puffing
billy.com.au. Round-trip fares A$21–A$35 adults, A$11–A$24 children 4–16, A$71–A$97 families of 6.
Closed Dec 25. Train from Flinders St. station in Melbourne to Belgrave; Puffing Billy station is a short
walk away.

WHERE TO DINE
Wild Oak CONTEMPORARY Chef Ben Higgs has turned this former cafe into
the best restaurant in the Dandenongs. The food includes the likes of lemon-myrtle
roasted baby barramundi fillet served with root vegetables and lime aioli; red curry
of roasted pumpkin, chickpeas, and baby spinach with coconut rice; or the signature
slow-cooked confit duck leg, served with carrot and pinenut gratin, minted pea
puree, and red currant jus. There are daily specials, steaks, and imaginative vegetarian
selections. They open for breakfast on Sundays, and there’s live jazz on the last
Friday night of each month. In winter, there’s a log fire.

232 Ridge Rd., Olinda. &03/9751 2033. www.wildoak.com.au. Main courses A$24–A$39. AE, DC, MC,

V. Wed–Sat noon–4pm and 6–11pm; Sun 9am–11pm.
Yarra Valley


61km (38 miles) E of Melbourne

Large tracts of the Yarra Valley, one of Melbourne’s best wine-growing regions, have
been affected by bushfires during the past two summers, and you will still see evidence
of this when you visit. But the main attractions remain untouched and visitors
are welcomed warmly in the villages, historic houses, gardens, crafts shops, antiques
centers, and restaurants that dot the region.


ESSENTIALS
GETTING THERE McKenzie’s Bus Lines (&03/5962 5088; www.mckenzies.
com.au) operates bus service from Lilydale Railway Station to Healesville. (Catch a
train from Melbourne’s Spencer St. station to Lilydale; the trip takes about an hour.)
Buses connect with trains frequently throughout the day (less often on weekends);
check exact connection times.


If you’re driving, pick up a map of the area from the Royal Automotive Club of
Victoria (&13 72 28 in Australia) in Melbourne. Maps are free if you’re a member

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of an auto club in your home country, but remember to bring your membership card.
Alternatively, you can pick up a map at the tourist office. Take the Maroondah Highway
from Melbourne to Lilydale and on to Healesville. The trip takes around 1 hour
and 15 minutes.

VISITOR INFORMATION Pick up details on attractions and lodging at the
Yarra Valley Visitor Information Centre, Old Court House, Harker Street,
Healesville (&03/5962 2600; fax 03/5962 2040; www.visityarravalley.com.au). It’s
open daily (except Dec 25) from 9am to 5pm.

EXPLORING THE VALLEY

There are three principal roads in the valley: Melba Highway, Maroondah Highway,

13

and Myers Creek Road, which form a triangle. Within the triangle are three smaller
roads, Healesville–Yarra Glen Road, Old Healesville Road, and Chum Creek Road,
which all lead to wineries. Most people start their tour of the Yarra Valley from Lilydale
and take in several cellar-door tastings at vineyards along the route.

Healesville Sanctuary This sanctuary played a major role in saving and rehabilitating
the hundreds of animals injured or displaced by the 2009 bushfires. You
can visit the Wildlife Health Centre (an animal rescue hospital) to see veterinarians
caring for (and operating on) injured or orphaned wildlife. This sanctuary is a great
place to spot native animals in almost-natural surroundings. You can see wedgetailed
eagles, dingoes, koalas, wombats, reptiles, and more, all while strolling
through the peppermint-scented gum forest, which rings with the chiming of bellbirds.
Sir Colin McKenzie started the sanctuary in 1921 as a center to preserve
endangered species and educate the public. There’s a gift shop, a cafe serving light
meals, and picnic grounds.

Badger Creek Rd., Healesville. &03/5957 2800. Fax 03/5957 2870. www.zoo.org.au. Admission A$24
adults, A$12 children ages 4–15, A$56–A$77 families. Daily 9am–5pm. Train from Flinders St. station to
Lilydale; then bus no. 685 to Healesville and bus no. 686 toward Badger Creek, which will stop at the
sanctuary.

WHERE TO STAY & DINE
Healesville Hotel



This lovely old hotel is great for either a leisurely lunch
in the beer garden or an elegant dinner and an overnight stay. There are only seven
rooms, with three bathrooms down the hallway. Each has a queen-size bed, high
pressed-metal ceilings, and small personal touches like handmade soaps. The oldworld
dining room is candlelit, with a log fire in winter; in summer you can dine in
the lamp-lit courtyard.
256 Maroondah Hwy., Healesville, VIC 3777. & 03/5962 4002. Fax 03/5962 1037. www.healesville
hotel.com.au. 7 units, none with bathroom. Mon–Thurs A$100 double; Fri and Sun A$130 double; Sat
A$315 double, including 3-course dinner; long weekends or public holidays A$160 double. AE, DC, MC,

V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar. In room: TV.
Melba Lodge


These modern accommodations are in Yarra Glen, in the heart
of the Yarra Valley wine region. Of the luxurious guest rooms, four have queen-size
beds, and two have king-size beds and a Jacuzzi; all have private bathrooms. There’s
a comfortable lounge with an open fire, and a billiard room. If you prefer, there’s also
a self-contained cottage. The lodge is only a few minutes’ walk from historic Yarra
Glen, which has antiques shops and a crafts market. There are plenty of restaurants
and wineries around, too. It’s a short drive to Healesville Sanctuary.
MELBOURNE

Side Trips from Melbourne


939 Melba Hwy., Yarra Glen, VIC 3775. &03/9730 1511. Fax 03/9730 1566. www.melbalodge.com.au.
8 units. A$140–A$175 queen room; A$170–A$205 king room, penthouse, or cottage. Extra person A$20.
Ask about weekend, golf, or dinner packages. Rates include cooked breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities:
Bar; Jacuzzi. In room: A/C, TV.

Sanctuary House Resort Motel This place is very handy for visiting Healesville
Sanctuary, as it is just 400m (1,312 ft.) away (and guests here get discounted entry).
Set in some 4 hectares (10 acres) of gardens, it is also a good choice if you just want
to relax and sample some good Yarra Valley wine. The rooms are typical motel-style.
Also available are two units with kitchens and amenities to assist travelers with disabilities.
A cedar cottage has two suites, each with a queen-size bed. There is a giant
adventure playground for kids.

Badger Creek Rd. (P.O. Box 162), Healesville, VIC 3777. &03/5962 5148. Fax 03/5962 5392. www.
sanctuaryhouse.com.au. 22 units, all with shower. A$99–A$190 double; A$120–A$150 family room
(sleeps 5); A$120–A$165 self-contained units (sleep 4–6); A$110–A$120 cottage (sleeps 4). MC, V. Train
from Flinders St. station to Lilydale; then bus no. 685 or 686. Amenities: Restaurant; 2 bars; babysitting;
exercise room; Jacuzzi; small outdoor solar-heated pool; sauna. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, kitchenette
(self-contained units only).

Phillip Island: Penguins on Parade


139km (86 miles) S of Melbourne

Phillip Island’s penguin parade, which happens every evening at dusk, is one of Australia’s
most popular animal attractions. There are other, less crowded places in Australia
where watching homecoming penguins feels less staged (such as Kangaroo Island in
South Australia), but at least the guides and boardwalks protect the little ones and their
nesting holes from the throngs. Nevertheless, the commercialism of the penguin parade
puts a lot of people off—busloads of tourists squashed into a sort of amphitheater hardly
feels like being one with nature. Phillip Island also offers nice beaches, good bushwalking,
fishing, and Seal Rocks. If you have the time, you could spend at least 2 days here.

ESSENTIALS
GETTING THERE Most visitors come to Phillip Island on a day trip from Melbourne
and arrive in time for the penguin parade and dinner. Several tour companies
run day trips. Among them are Gray Line (& 1300/858 687 in Australia or 03/
9663 4455; www.grayline.com or www.grayline.com.au), which operates a number
of different tours, including the daily “penguin express” trips for those who are short
of time. The express tour departs Melbourne at 3pm and returns at around 9pm.
Tours cost A$120 for adults and A$60 for children, and can be booked online in U.S.
dollars before arrival. Upgrades to premium seating at the penguin parade and various
other options are available.

If you’re driving yourself, Phillip Island is an easy 2-hour trip from Melbourne
along the South Gippsland Highway and then the Bass Highway. A bridge connects
the island to the mainland.

V/Line (& 13 61 96 in Australia) runs a bus from Melbourne to Cowes, but
does not take you to any of the attractions on Phillip Island. Once on the island, you
need to hire a car, take a tour, or hire a push bike to get around. The parade is 15km
(91.2 miles) from the center of Cowes.

VISITOR INFORMATION There are two information centers on the island.
The Phillip Island Information Centre (& 03/5956 7447) is at 895 Phillip

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EXPLORING werribee

MELBOURNE
Side Trips from Melbourne
This small country town, 32km (20
miles) southwest of Melbourne—just a
30-minute drive along the Princes Free-
way—has a cluster of great attractions
that combine for a great day (or two)
out. The Mansion at Werribee Park ,
K Road, Werribee (&03/8734 5100;
www.werribeepark.com.au), is always on
my list of places to take visitors. The
60-room Italianate mansion, dubbed
“the palace in the paddock,” was built in
1877 and is surrounded by 132 hectares
(326 acres) of magnificent formal gar-
dens and bushland. You can tour the
house, which has wonderful antique fur-
niture, and there is also an interesting
contemporary sculpture garden to wan-
der in. There’s a cafe, too. Admission is
free to the park and picnic grounds;
admission to the mansion is A$14 adults,
A$8 children 4 to 15, and A$33 families
of four. It’s open daily 10am to 5pm,
until 4pm on weekdays from May
through Oct, and closed December 25.
A guided tour of the tower is run at
1:30pm daily and costs A$4 per person.
Adjacent to the mansion is Werribee
Open Range Zoo (&03/9731 9600;
www.zoo.org.au). Getting around the
open range part of the zoo, where you
will see giraffes, hippos, rhinoceros,
zebras, and more, is strictly by guided
tour on a safari bus. The tour takes
about an hour. On busy days, it might
pay to spend the extra to take a small
group tour in an open-sided jeep, as
you’ll get a better view and better photo
opportunities. The zoo also has a walk-
through section featuring African cats,
including cheetahs, and monkeys. If
you’ve been to Africa, you may find little
to excite you, but kids love it and it’s
crowded with families. Admission is A$24
adults, A$12 children ages 4 to 15, and
A$56 to A$77 families. It’s open daily
9am to 5pm (entrance gate closes at
3:30pm). Safari tours run hourly from
10:30am to 3:40pm. Trains run from Mel-
bourne to Werribee station; a taxi from
the station to the zoo costs around A$5.
A joint ticket to the mansion and the zoo
costs A$35 adults, A$18 children ages 4
to 15, or A$80 to A$99 for families. It can
be purchased at either attraction.
On the other side of the mansion is
the Victoria State Rose Garden, which
has 5,000 bushes in themed gardens.
Entry is free, and the best time to view
the roses in bloom is November to April.
If you want to stay longer in Wer-
ribee, the magnificently modern Sofitel
Werribee Park Mansion Hotel & Spa
(&03/9731 4000; www.mansionhotel.
com.au) is attached to the back of the
original mansion. Room rates start at
A$249 double per night. Also on the
property is the boutique winery Shad-
owfax (&03/9731 4420; www.shadow
fax.com.au), open daily from 11am-5pm.
Stay for lunch; they have delicious anti-
pasto platters and wood-fired pizzas.
Island Tourist Rd., Newhaven, just a few kilometers onto the island, and the Cowes
Visitor Information Centre is at Thompson Avenue, Cowes (& 03/5951 3396).
Both are open daily from 9am to 5pm (except Christmas Day), and share the toll-free
number &1300/366 422 in Australia and the website www.visitphillipisland.com.

EXPLORING THE AREA

Visitors approach the island from the east, passing through the town of Newhaven.
The main town on the island, Cowes (pop. 2,400), is on the north coast. A stroll
along its Esplanade is worthwhile. The penguin parade is on the far southwest coast.


The trip to the west coast of Phillip Island’s Summerland Peninsula ends in an
interesting rock formation called the Nobbies. This strange-looking outcropping
can be reached at low tide by a basalt causeway. You’ll get some spectacular views of
the coastline and two offshore islands from here. On the farthest of these islands is
a population of up to 12,000 Australian fur seals, the largest colony in Australia.
(Bring your binoculars.) This area is also home to thousands of nesting silver gulls.
The Nobbies Centre (&03/5951 2883; www.penguins.org.au) is a marine interpretive
center with information about the wildlife, binoculars for better viewing, and
a cafe. Entry is free from 10am daily (11am in winter) until sunset, when the area
is closed to the public to protect the wildlife.

On the north coast of the island, you can explore Rhyll Inlet, an intertidal mangrove
wetland inhabited by wading birds such as spoonbills, oystercatchers, herons,
egrets, cormorants, and the rare bar-tailed godwit and whimbrel. Birders will also
love Swan Lake, another breeding habitat for wetland birds.

Elsewhere, walking trails lead through heath and pink granite to Cape Woolamai,
the island’s highest point, where there are fabulous coastal views. From September
through April, the cape is home to thousands of short-tailed shearwaters
(also known as mutton birds).

A ThreeParks Pass gives discounted entry to the Koala Conservation Centre,
the penguin parade, and the island’s other major attraction, Churchill Island
Heritage Farm (& 03/5956 7214; www.churchillisland.org.au). The pass costs
A$36 adults, A$18 children ages 4 to 15, and A$90 for families of four; it can be
purchased online (www.penguins.org.au) or at any of the attractions.

PHILLIP ISLAND ATTRACTIONS
Koala Conservation Centre Koalas were introduced to Phillip Island in the
1880s, and at first they thrived in the predator-free environment. However, overpopulation,
the introduction of foxes and dogs, and the clearing of land for farmland
and roads have taken their toll. Though you can still see a few koalas in the wild, the
best place to find them is at this sanctuary, set up for research and breeding purposes.
Visitors can get quite close to them, especially on the elevated boardwalk,
which lets you peek into their treetop homes. At around 4pm, the ordinarily sleepy
koalas are on the move—but this is also the time when a lot of tour buses converge
on the place, so it can get crowded.

Fiveways, Phillip Island Tourist Rd., Cowes. &03/5952 1610. www.penguins.org.au. Admission A$10
adults, A$5 children 4–15, A$26 families of 4. Daily 10am–5pm.

National Vietnam Veterans Museum This might seem an oddly out-of-theway
place for a national museum, but it’s first-class. The collection includes about
6,000 artifacts, including the marbles used in Australia’s conscription lottery, uniforms,
vehicles, and weapons. The big-ticket item is a Bell AH-IG HueyCobra
helicopter gunship, one of only three in Australia. A moving audio-visual exhibit and
dioramas on aspects of Australia’s involvement in the war from 1962 to 1972 are
complemented by a photo gallery and a display about the Australian-Vietnamese
community. The museum is also restoring a Canberra bomber, the only surviving
example of its kind in the world. You can have a coffee in the Nui Dat Cafe, and
there’s a shop selling books and memorabilia.

25 Veterans Dr., Newhaven. &03/5956 6400. www.vietnamvetsmuseum.org. Admission A$9 adults,
A$4 children 14 and under, A$20 families of 4. Daily 10am–5pm. Closed Good Friday and Christmas Day.

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Phillip Island Penguin Reserve


The penguin parade takes place every
night at dusk, when hundreds of Little Penguins appear at the water’s edge, gather in
the shallows, and waddle up the beach toward their burrows in the dunes. They’re the
smallest of the world’s 17 species of penguins, standing just 33 centimeters (13 in.)
high, and they’re the only penguins that breed on the Australian mainland. Photography
is banned, because it scares the penguins, as are smoking and touching the
penguins. Wear a sweater or jacket, because it gets chilly after the sun goes down. A
kiosk selling food opens an hour before the penguins turn up. Reservations for the
parade are essential during busy holiday periods such as Easter and in summer.

For a better experience, there are more exclusive small group tours which allow

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you a better view of the penguins. Penguins Plus allows you to watch the parade
from an exclusive boardwalk in the company of rangers, while the Penguin Sky
Box is an adults-only elevated viewing tower staffed by a ranger. The Ultimate
Penguin Tour for groups of only 10 people (no children under 16) takes you to a
secluded beach away from the main viewing area to see penguins coming ashore.
Another option is a ranger-guided tour, a few hours before the penguins appear, to
see behind-the-scenes research.

Summerland Beach, Phillip Island Tourist Rd., Cowes. &03/5951 2820. www.penguins.org.au. Admission
A$21 adults, A$11 children 4–15, A$53 families of 4. Penguins Plus A$40 adult, A$20 child, A$100
families; Penguin Sky Box A$60; Private Penguin Parade Experience (no children 11 and under) A$69;
Ultimate Penguin Tour A$75; ranger guided tour A$10 adult, A$5 child, A$25 family, in addition to visitor
center entry. Visitor center summer daily 9am–6pm; winter daily 9am–5pm.

WHERE TO STAY
Abaleigh on Lovers Walk



The beach is right on the doorstep of these gorgeous
town-house suites. The studios are designed for couples, and a beachfront
apartment sleeps up to six. All come with log fires, double showers, and water views.
The kitchen is stocked with breakfast items for your arrival, and the best place to
enjoy it is either in the private courtyard or on the veranda. You also get free fishing
gear, beach chairs and umbrellas, magazines and books, and fresh flowers. Lovers
Walk, a romantic floodlit path along the foreshore, is a 5-minute walk from the
center of Cowes, with its cafes, restaurants, and shops.
6 Roy Court, Cowes, Phillip Island, VIC 3922. &03/5952 5649. Fax 03/5952 2549. www.abaleigh.com.
3 units. A$175–A$200 double. Extra person A$50. Rates include breakfast. AE, MC, V. Children not
accepted. Amenities: Golf course nearby. In room: A/C, TV/VCR, CD player, hair dryer, Jacuzzi, kitchen.

Glen Isla House


This is one of the best places to stay in Phillip Island. Set
in lovely heritage gardens, the house was built around 1870 and is one of the oldest
homes on the island, offering old-world charm and elegance. It’s beachside location
is perfect for visiting the penguins. There are five guest rooms in the house, as well
as the Anderson Suite Cottage, which features a king-size four-poster bed and a
Jacuzzi, and the Gate Cottage, which has two bedrooms. No children under 12.
230 Church St., Cowes, Phillip Island, VIC 3922. &03/5952 1882. Fax 03/5952 5028. www.glenisla.
com. 7 units. A$285 double; A$425 double Anderson Suite Cottage; A$325 double Gate Cottage, extra
person A$35. Rates include breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Secure off-street parking. No children 11 and under.
Amenities: Restaurant; bar. In room: A/C, TV/DVD (cottages only), hair dryer, free Wi-Fi.

Holmwood Guesthouse


This charming 1934 guesthouse is set in lovely cottage
gardens, just a short walk from the beach and the center of Cowes. You can
choose between three rooms, all with private bathrooms, in the main house, two
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stylish cottages built alongside, or a three-bedroom budget studio apartment, each
with their own courtyard garden. Guesthouse rooms have a slightly old-fashioned
feel (one is called the Jane Austen Room), but the cottages are modern—one’s
theme is seaside or nautical, the other Asian. The studio has one double and two
single bedrooms and is self-catering. Breakfasts are hearty, and you can stay in for
dinner if you choose. The guest lounge has a fireplace.

37 Chapel St., Cowes, Phillip Island, VIC 3922. &03/5952 3082 or 0421/444 810 mobile phone. Fax
03/5952 3083. www.holmwoodguesthouse.com.au. 6 units. A$195–A$220 double B&B; A$215–A$250
double cottage; A$150 double studio, extra person A$20. Rates include breakfast. Ask about packages.
2-night minimum or longer on Sat–Sun or holiday periods. AE, DC, MC, V. Free off-street parking. Amenities:
Restaurant; bar; bikes; room service. In room: A/C, TV, CD player, hair dryer, free Internet.

The Bellarine Peninsula

75km (47 miles) SW of Melbourne

The seaside villages of the Bellarine Peninsula are a gentle reminder of how the pace of
life can still be. With lots of attractions and increasingly good options for dining and
accommodation, these villages nevertheless remain slow-moving and unspoiled. In summer,
crowds of holiday-makers flock to the beaches along the peninsula coast, but outside
the hectic high season, there’s a serenity about this region that’s hard to beat. The
region starts at Geelong, Victoria’s second largest city, and takes in the seaside hamlets
of Queenscliff, Port Arlington, Point Lonsdale, Barwon Heads, and Ocean Grove.

ESSENTIALS
GETTING THERE The city of Geelong, at the start of the Bellarine Peninsula,
is about an hour’s drive from Melbourne on the Princes Highway. From there, take
the Bellarine Highway to Queenscliff, Portarlington, Point Lonsdale, Barwon Heads,
and Ocean Grove. V Line (& 13 61 96 in Australia) runs a train service from
Melbourne’s Southern Cross Station to Geelong. A vehicle and passenger ferry operates
between Queenscliff and Sorrento on the Mornington Peninsula (p. 654).

VISITOR INFORMATION The Geelong Visitor Information Centre, 26
Moorabool St., Geelong, VIC 3220 (& 1800/620 888 in Australia or 03/5222
2900; www.visitgreatoceanroad.org.au) is open daily (except Christmas Day) from
9am to 5pm. The Queenscliff Visitor Information Centre, 55 Hesse St., Queenscliff,
VIC 3225 (& 1300/884 843 in Australia or 03/5258 4843; fax 03/5258
3726; www.queenscliff.org) is open daily 9am to 5pm (except Christmas Day) and
until 6pm from December 26 to January 31.

EXPLORING THE AREA

Geelong is a waterfront city, set on a north-facing bay with lots of restaurants, cafes,
landscaped gardens, and walking paths set against the backdrop of Corio Bay. The
foreshore is dotted with colorful sculptured bollards representing characters from
the city’s past and present—1930s lifesavers, fishermen, a town band, young ladies
in neck-to-knee bathing costumes, and of course, a Geelong footballer. Nearby
Eastern Beach has an Art Deco–style pool and a restored bathing pavilion that is
now a cafe. The city also has about 100 heritage-listed colonial buildings.

Queenscliff started as a fishing village, then became a fashionable holiday destination
for Melbourne’s elite. It has remained trendy in recent years, and there’s a
plethora of art galleries, shops, and restaurants, but you can get away from it all on
the beach or the tree-lined foreshore. Fort Queenscliff, on King Street

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(&03/5258 0730), is Australia’s largest and best-preserved military fortress. You can
tour the complex on weekends and public holidays (call for times), with its historic
buildings, including gun positions and ammunition vaults. There is a large collection
of war memorabilia in the museum, as well as World War I and World War II guns.

From Barwon Heads, cross Victoria’s longest wooden bridge, built in 1927, to
reach Ocean Grove. From the heads at nearby Point Lonsdale, unbroken sands
stretch to the mouth of the Barwon River, providing one of Victoria’s most popular
ocean beaches.

BELLARINE ATTRACTIONS
The Blues Train Sway to the rhythm of the steam train and the music aboard this

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locomotive as it makes its way from Queenscliff to Drysdale and back again, with
the scenery of the Bellarine passing by outside. This is dinner and a show, with different
acts in four carriages, each seating 50 people. Drinks to take on the journey
are available on the platforms at each of the four stops along the way. At each stop,
passengers swap carriages to find a new band tuning up for them. One carriage only
has seating running along each wall, leaving room for a bit of a dance floor! The train
runs from August to May.

Queenscliff Railway Station. &03/5258 4829. www.bluestrain.com.au. Tickets A$80. Book through
Ticketek: &13 28 49. Sat Aug–May 6:30–11pm.

National Wool Museum For much of its colonial history, Australia was said to
“ride on the sheep’s back,” so important was the wool industry to the nation. Times
have changed, but this interesting museum, housed in a restored 1872 bluestone wool
store, tells the story of wool from the birth of the industry in the 1840s to the present
day. The museum has two permanent galleries. “The Wool Harvest” looks at sheep
farming and wool production and follows the path of a fleece through shearing, classing,
wool pressing, and dispatch. There’s a re-created shearing shed and a film about
shearing, and if you visit during school holiday times, you may see a shearing demonstration.
Another area of the museum looks at the processing of wool into fabric, and
you can see a 1910 carpet loom in operation, producing the museum’s own “Manor
House Rug.”

26 Moorabool St., Geelong, VIC 3220. & 03/5272 4701. www.nwm.vic.gov.au. Admission A$7.30
adults, A$3.65 children, A$20 family of 6. Mon–Fri 9:30am–5pm; Sat–Sun 1–5pm. Closed Good Friday
and Dec 25–26.

WHERE TO STAY
Athelstane House



Built in 1860, Athelstane House is Queenscliff’s oldest
operating guesthouse. A renovation in 1999 added modern conveniences and luxury
touches to its rooms. As well as guest rooms, four of which have verandas, there is
a self-contained ground floor apartment. Choose the King balcony room, which has a
fireplace for cozy winter nights, or the apartment if you want a bit of space. There’s
a communal sitting room downstairs, with a fireplace, dining table, and library. A day
spa is next door.

4 Hobson St., Queenscliff. &03/5258 1024. www.athelstane.com.au. 9 units. A$170–A$200 double
standard room midweek, A$195–A$235 weekends; A$200–A$230 double balcony room midweek,
A$235–A$260 weekends; A$230 double apartment midweek, A$260 weekends. 2 night minimum stay
on weekends. Ask about dinner, golf, and spa packages. Rates include breakfast. AE, V. Amenities:
Restaurant; bar; access to nearby golf course. In room: A/C, TV, Jacuzzi.

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WHERE TO DINE
Athelstane House


CONTEMPORARY Relaxed and unpretentious, but still
with plenty to say for itself, this is a popular venue with locals, so make sure you book
ahead. The menu is innovative: Try the free-range lamb rump, or the yellowtail kingfish
with a scallop omelette, peas, rice noodles, and dashi broth. Vegetarians won’t get
past the cumin potato roesti, roasted beetroot, and chargrilled zucchini and asparagus,
with hazlenut cream and hung yogurt. At lunch, there are set-price menus—two
courses for A$35 or three for A$45, with a glass of wine and tea or coffee.
4 Hobson St., Queenscliff. & 03/5258 1024. www.athelstane.com.au. Reservations recommended.
Main courses A$32–A$41. AE, V. Daily for breakfast and dinner; Sat–Sun for lunch.

At the Heads CONTEMPORARY This open, casual restaurant, with huge windows
overlooking the water and a view of the old wooden bridge, juts out over the
water on the southern side of the Barwon River mouth. It’s a great spot for lunch on
a sunny day. The menu includes fish and chips, as well as a range of pastas, seafood
dishes, and steaks. You find things like whole baby snapper roasted with leeks and
lemongrass; or perhaps a King Island eye fillet with hash browns, baby fennel, mushrooms,
and green peppercorn jus—and it’s all consistently good. A seafood platter
comes in two sizes, for A$50 or A$90. The wine list is almost exclusively Australian,
with a good selection of local wines.

Jetty Rd., Barwon Heads. &03/5254 1277. www.attheheads.com.au. Main courses A$21–A$36. AE,
DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 10am–late; Sat–Sun 8am–late.

The Mornington Peninsula

80km (50 miles) S of Melbourne

The Mornington Peninsula, a scenic 40km (25-mile) stretch of windswept coastline and
hinterland, is one of Melbourne’s favorite day-trip and weekend-getaway destinations.
The coast is lined with good beaches and thick bush. The Cape Shanck Coastal Park
stretches along the peninsula’s Bass Strait foreshore from Portsea to Cape Shanck. It’s
home to gray kangaroos, southern brown bandicoots, echidnas, native rats, mice, reptiles,
bats, and many forest and ocean birds. The park has numerous interconnecting
walking tracks providing access to some remote beaches. You can get more information
on this and all the other Victorian National Parks by calling &13 19 63.

The Mornington Peninsula is a popular wine-producing region. The peninsula’s
fertile soil, temperate climate, and rolling hills produce excellent wine, particularly
pinot noir, Shiraz, and chardonnay. Many wineries offer cellar-door tastings, others
have excellent restaurants.

Along the route to the south, stop at the Mornington Peninsula Regional Gallery,
Dunns Road, Mornington (&03/5975 4395; http://mprg.mornpen.vic.gov.au),
to check out the work of well-known Australian artists (Tues–Sun 10am–5pm), or visit
the summit at Arthurs Seat State Park for glorious views of the coastline. At Sorrento,
take time out to spot pelicans on the jetty or visit the town’s many galleries.

If you are traveling with kids, stop in at Australia’s oldest maze, Ashcombe Maze
& Water Gardens, Red Hill Road, Shoreham (&03/5989 8387; www.ashcombe
maze.com.au). Mine loved it. As well as the big maze, there are extensive water and
woodland gardens, and even a rose maze made out of 1,300 rose bushes. There’s also
a pleasant cafe with indoor and outdoor dining. The park is open daily from 10am

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to 5pm, except Christmas Day; admission is A$16 for adults, A$9 for children 4 to
16, and A$40 for families of four.

For fabulous wildlife viewing, take a night tour of Moonlit Sanctuary , 550
Tyabb Tooradin Rd., Pearcedale (&03/5978 7935; www.moonlit-sanctuary.com),
at the northern end of the peninsula. The sanctuary is open daily from 11am but the
best way to see Australia’s nocturnal animals is on a guided evening tour, from
8:30pm October to March (8pm Apr–Sept). The bushland tour will enable you to
see animals such as the eastern quoll, the red-bellied pademelon, and the southern
bettong, all of which are extinct in the wild on Australia’s mainland. Day admission
is A$12 adults, A$7.50 children, and A$36 families. Night-time admission and

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guided tour is A$25 adults, A$14 children, or A$85 for a family of five. With transfers
from Melbourne city hotels, the cost is A$109 adults or A$99 children.

ESSENTIALS
GETTING THERE From Melbourne, take the Mornington Peninsula Freeway to
Rosebud, and then the Point Nepean Road. If you want to cross Port Phillip Bay
from Sorrento to Queenscliff, take the Sea Road Ferry (&03/5258 3244; www.
searoad.com.au), which operates daily every hour on the hour between 7am and
6pm in both directions. The one-way fare is around A$56 for a car and driver, and
about A$7 per extra passenger, but changes slightly depending on the season. Footpassenger
fares (one-way) are A$10 for adults, A$9 for students 16 and over, A$8 for
children 5 to 15, and A$1 for children under 5. The crossing takes 35 to 40 minutes.

VISITOR INFORMATION The Peninsula Visitor Information Centre,
Point Nepean Road, Dromana (& 1800/804 009 in Australia, or 03/5987 3078;
www.visitmorningtonpeninsula.org), has plenty of maps and information on the area
and can also help book accommodations. It’s open daily from 9am to 5pm, except
December 25 and Good Friday.

WHERE TO STAY & DINE
The Portsea Hotel The motel-style rooms in this Tudor-style pub motel on the
seafront are smartly done up, and the recently refurbished Executive Suite has a
romantic look without being chintzy, as well as a fireplace, sofas, and a big-screen
TV. The standard twin rooms are basic; all share bathrooms. Doubles have double
beds and attached bathrooms with showers. Units with bathrooms also have TVs
and refrigerators. The large restaurant is very popular and the outdoor beer garden
overlooking the sea is hard to beat on a sunny day.

3746 Point Nepean Rd., Portsea, VIC 3944. &03/5984 2213. www.portseahotel.com.au. 26 units, 6 with
bathroom. A$110–A$155 double without bathroom; A$160–A$190 double with bathroom; A$190–A$225
bayview suite; A$275 executive suite (minimum 2-night stay, no children allowed). Extra adult A$45 or
A$75 in the executive suite, extra child ages 5–12 A$30. More expensive prices are for Sat–Sun. AE, DC,
MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; 3 bars; golf course nearby. In room: A/C, TV (except standard rooms).

The Macedon Ranges

Some of Victoria’s finest gardens dot the hills and valleys of the Macedon Ranges,
just an hour from Melbourne. In bygone times, the wealthy swapped the city’s summer
heat for the cooler climes of Macedon. Their legacy of “hill station” private
gardens and impressive mansions, along with the region’s 40 cool-climate wineries
and gourmet foods, are enough reason to visit. The best times to visit the Macedon
Ranges for the gardens are April (autumn) and November (spring). These are Open

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Garden months (www.opengarden.org.au), when private gardens can be viewed by
the public. Some homestead gardens are open year-round, including Duneira
(& 03/5426 1490; www.duneira.com.au) and Tieve Tara (& 0418/337 813
mobile phone; www.gardensoftievetara.com) at Mount Macedon; Bringalbit, near
Kyneton (&03/5423 7223; www.bringalbit.com.au); and the Edna Walling garden
at Campaspe Country House, Woodend (& 03/5427 2273; www.campese
house.com.au). It pays to call ahead to check times and access. Entry fees apply.

At Hanging Rock Reserve , South Rock Road, Woodend (& 1800/244
711; www.hangingrock.info), the ghost of Miranda, the fictional schoolgirl who vanished
at Hanging Rock in author Joan Lindsay’s 1967 novel Picnic at Hanging Rock, is
never far away. Peter Weir’s 1975 film of the novel cemented its fame, but the natural
beauty of the area overshadows its slightly spooky reputation. You can climb the rock,
walk the tracks, and explore caves like the Black Hole of Calcutta and the Cathedral.
The Hanging Rock Discovery Centre explains the geology and history of the area, and
revisits the book and movie. There are guided tours, including night tours during summer,
and lots of wildlife including koalas, kangaroos, sugar gliders, echidnas, and wallabies.
Picnic races have been run every Australia Day (Jan 26), New Year’s Day, and
Labour Day for the past 80-plus years and are hugely popular. The reserve is open daily
8am to 6pm. Admission is A$10 per car or A$4 per pedestrian.

After the gold rush of the 1850s, Woodend became a resort town with guesthouses,
private gardens, a racecourse, a golf club, and hotels. Reminders of those
days can be found in the historical buildings and clock tower on High Street. Cafes,
provedores, boutiques, and galleries abound. For example, stop in for a beer at the
family-run Holgate Brewhouse, in the historic Keatings Hotel on High Street
(& 03/5427 2510; www.holgatebrewhouse.com). The brewery produces a range
of draught beers and you can buy “tastings” until you decide on your favorite. The
beer is brewed using just four ingredients—malt, hops, yeast, and pure Macedon
Ranges water. It’s open daily noon till late (from 2pm on Mon).

The hamlet of Malmsbury has two main things worth stopping for on the Calder
Highway. First, the Malmsbury Botanic Gardens, next to the Town Hall, were
designed to take advantage of the Coliban River valley and a billabong that was
transformed into a group of ornamental lakes. The 5-hectare (12-acre) gardens have
a superb collection of mature trees; it’s also a popular spot for barbecues, and at
Apple Hole you’ll find kids leaping into the river from a rope swing. At quiet times,
you may even spot a platypus. But Malmsbury’s most famous landmark may be the
bluestone railway viaduct built by 4,000 men in 1859. At 25m (82 ft.) high, with five
18m (59-ft.) spans, it is one of Australia’s longest stone bridges and is best viewed
from the gardens. I also like to pop in to Tin Shed Arts (& 03/5423 2144), a
spacious gallery on the highway that always has something interesting and unexpected.
It hangs contemporary and traditional art from both local artists and wellknown
names from around Australia. You’ll find paintings, mixed media, sculpture,
and craftwork. Open Thursday to Monday 10am to 5pm.

In Kyneton, turn down Piper Street


for antiques, homewares, cafes, a heritage
pub, and much more. The Kyneton Farmers’ Market is held at Saint Paul’s
Park in Piper Street on the second Saturday of the month from 8am to 1pm.
With more than 40 vineyards and 20 cellar doors in the region, wine buffs who
want to sample the product should consider a tour. Victoria Winery Tours
(& 1300/946 386; www.winetours.com.au) runs small-group (minimum of two

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people) day tours from Melbourne, visiting four or five wineries. Pick up in Melbourne
is at 9am, returning by about 5:30pm. The cost is A$150 per person, including
morning tea and lunch.

ESSENTIALS
GETTING THERE & GETTING AROUND The Macedon Ranges are less than
an hour’s drive from Melbourne along the Calder Freeway, which is a continuation
of the Tullamarine Freeway. Follow the signs towards Bendigo until you reach Gisborne,
and then move off the freeway. V/Line (&13 61 96 in Australia) trains from
Melbourne to Bendigo pass through the Macedon Ranges, stopping at stations
including Macedon, Woodend, Kyneton, and Malmsbury. Fares range from A$15

13

round-trip to Macedon to A$25 round-trip to Malmsbury.

Plan your own discovery of the region with personalized tours in a Jaguar with
local Lyn Currie. Jag Tours Kyneton (&03/5422 6738 or 0428 312 798 mobile
phone; www.jagtourskyneton.com) will customize a tour for up to four people and
take you anywhere for as long as you want, for about A$70 an hour.

VISITOR INFORMATION There are two visitor information centers in the
region: the Woodend Visitor Centre, 711 High St., Woodend, and the Kyneton
Visitor Information Centre, 127 High St., Kyneton. Both share the same telephone
information line (& 1800/244 711) and are open daily 9am to 5pm. The
website www.visitmacedonranges.com is also a good source of information.

WHERE TO STAY
Apartment 61A This self-contained apartment on two levels has a lounge room
upstairs overlooking Piper Street, and two fresh, modern bedrooms. Downstairs is a
kitchen and all supplies are provided for breakfast, including organic juice, bacon
and eggs, cereal, organic muesli, and yogurt. The real drawback, especially at night,
is that the bathroom is also downstairs. Take a flashlight for negotiating the staircase
in the dark.

61A Piper St., Kyneton, VIC 3444. & 03/5422-1211. www.macedonrangesinteriors.com.au. 2 units.
A$180 double. A$30 per extra person. In room: TV, hair dryer.

Campaspe Country House


If playing lord and lady of the manor is your
thing, this 1920s English-style country house with Art Deco touches will be just the
place to stay. There are two guest rooms upstairs in the grand old manor house (with
private bathrooms down the hall), as well as a more modern extension across the
lawn with 16 rooms, and a private two-bedroom cottage. Campaspe House also
boasts one of the Macedon Ranges’ best restaurants, and if you overindulge (and
you may well), you can walk it off in the lovely gardens.
29 Goldies Lane, Woodend. &03/5427 2273. Fax 03/5427 1049. www.campaspehouse.com.au. 19
units. A$280 double for all room types. Rates include breakfast. Ask about packages. AE, V. Amenities:
Restaurant; bar; pool; tennis court; croquet courts. In room: TV, DVD, CD player, free Wi-Fi.

WHERE TO DINE
Pizza Verde



PIZZA If you like your pizza thin and crisp, made from organic
or gluten-free flour and adorned with tasty organic toppings, then this 1950s-style
diner is the place for you. Owner-chef Damien Sandercock succeeds with such
unlikely combinations as the “green” pizza—topped with zucchini, ricotta, mint,
garlic, and lemon (with optional chili)—or the potato-topped pizza with caramelized
MELBOURNE

Side Trips from Melbourne


onions. Some have the traditional tomato base, others an olive oil base. There’s also
meatballs or a vegetable pasta for those who don’t want pizza. BYO wine (corkage
A$5 per bottle), or you can try the house wine made by Damien’s brother-in-law,
Luke. There’s beer too.

62 Piper St., Kyneton. &03/5422 7400. www.pizzaverde.com. Main courses A$15–A$18. V. Thurs–Mon
5pm–late; Sun noon–late.

Star Anise Bistro


CONTEMPORARY The tiny dining room in this cottage
on Kyneton’s trendy Piper Street is proof that you don’t have to be in a city to get seriously
good food. Chef Emma Chapple, with husband Chris at the front of house,
serves up some sensational and innovative dishes. Start with a few of the tasting plates,
move on to main courses—the signature dish is spiced duck with pickled cherries,
roasted baby beetroot, and braised red cabbage—but make sure you leave room for
dessert. Desserts are color-coded—“Mr. Pink” is Turkish delight, fairy floss, raspberry
semifredo, and rose and strawberry jelly. There’s also Mr. Brown, Mr. White, and Mr.
Yellow, and their friend Carmen Miranda. I’ll leave you to ponder what each might be.
29 Piper St., Kyneton. &03/5422 2777. www.staranisebistro.com. Reservations recommended. Main
courses A$25–A$34. AE, V. Thurs–Sun noon–3pm; Thurs–Sat 6:30–9:30pm.

Daylesford

108km (67 miles) NW of Melbourne

Daylesford can be a terrific day trip from Melbourne, or can also easily be combined
with a trip to the Macedon Ranges (see above). Part of “spa country,” this village is
a bit of a trendy getaway for Melbournians. Along the main street, you’ll find small
galleries, homewares shops, and some smart foodie outlets.

Australians have been heading to Hepburn Springs, neighboring Daylesford, to “take
the waters” since 1895, and there are now about a dozen or so day spas in the region.
The original, and most famous, is Hepburn Bathhouse & Spa (&03/5321 6000;
www.hepburnbathhouse.com). Not everyone likes the slick, modern, and rather cold
new extension that has replaced the elegant old wooden building, but sink into the hot
pools and it’s easy to forget what the exterior looks like. There’s traditional communal
bathing in the Bathhouse and the Sanctuary, or you can book in to the Spa (in the
original bathhouse building; reservations essential) for the usual range of therapies and
treatments. The complex includes an aroma steam room, salt therapy pool, relaxation
pool, and “spa couches” submerged in mineral water (which I didn’t find very comfortable).
The complex is on Mineral Springs Reserve Road and is open daily 9am to
6:30pm. Entry to the Bathhouse costs A$23 per person or A$73 for a family of four
Tuesday to Friday, A$30 per person or A$98 families Saturday to Monday and on public
holidays (towel hire is A$3.50). Entry to the Sanctuary is A$55 Tuesday to Friday,
A$75 Saturday to Monday and public holidays (including towel and robe). Both are for
a 2-hour period. A 30-minute private mineral bath at The Spa costs A$65.

On the hill behind Daylesford’s main street is the Convent (&03/5348 3211;
www.theconvent.com.au), a three-level historic 19th-century mansion, complete
with twisting staircases. It is comprised of a restaurant, a gallery, gardens, a chapel,
and shops, as well as a small museum that speaks to its origins as a private home,
which later became the Holy Cross Convent and Boarding School for Girls. After
years of dereliction, it reopened as a gallery in 1991, but the nuns’ infirmary and one
of the “cells,” or bedrooms, were left unrestored. You’ll find it on the corner of Hill

13
MELBOURNE

Side Trips from Melbourne

657


and Daly streets. It’s open daily 10am to 4pm, and admission is A$5 per person. A
self-contained luxury “penthouse” on the second level can be yours from A$295 per
night, with breakfast. Take time to wander through the lovely gardens, with their
sculptures and bench seats.

Just outside Daylesford is Lavandula (& 03/5476 4393; www.lavandula.com.
au), a Swiss-Italian lavender farm that features a rustic trattoria-style cafe and a
cobblestone courtyard with a cluster of farmhouse buildings. Swiss immigrants ran
a dairy farm here in the 1860s, but today you can see the process of lavender farming
and buy all manner of lavender products. The restored stone farmhouse is a
picturesque backdrop to gardens where you can picnic, play boules (like bocce), or

13
just relax and admire the scenery. The lavender is in full bloom in December, with
harvesting in January. Lavandula is at 350 Hepburn-Newstead Rd., Shepherds Flat,
about 10 minutes’ drive north of Daylesford. It is open daily from 10:30am to
5:30pm September to May (except Dec 24 and 25), and on weekends, public holidays,
and school holidays only in June, July, and August. The cafe is closed during
August. Admission is A$3.50 adults, A$1 school-age children. There’s also a modern
three-bedroom house on the property which can be rented, starting from A$280 for
one room for 1 night.

ESSENTIALS
GETTING THERE From Melbourne, take the Citylink toll-road (the M2) north
towards Melbourne Airport. Take the Calder Highway turnoff towards Bendigo
(M79), and continue until you see the turnoff to Daylesford (C792); then follow the
signs. The road will take you through Woodend, Tylden, and Trentham. At Trentham
take the C317 to Daylesford. When you arrive in Daylesford, turn right at the roundabout
as signposted to get to Hepburn Springs.

VISITOR INFORMATION The Daylesford Regional Visitor Information
Centre, 98 Vincent St. (&03/5321 6123; www.visitdaylesford.com), features an
interpretive display about the area’s mineral waters. It’s open daily from 9am to 5pm,
except December 25.

WHERE TO STAY & DINE

The Lake House


The Lake House is set on the edge Lake Daylesford, on

2.4 hectares (6 acres) of beautiful gardens. Walking tracks circle the lake and also
lead into Wombat State Forest. Lodge rooms have private courtyards and are clustered
around a common lounge room, which has a roaring log fire in winter. Waterfront
rooms have balconies and king-size beds, and the suites have double Jacuzzis.
Throughout the property, the walls are adorned with vibrant art works. The Lake
House restaurant is renowned for its commitment to local and seasonal produce
and is widely regarded as one of the best restaurants in Australia.
King St., Daylesford, VIC 3460. &03/5348 3329. www.lakehouse.com.au. 33 units. A$500 double
lodge room; A$600 double waterfront room; A$740 double waterfront suite. Rates include breakfast.
AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; spa; tennis court. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, free Wi-Fi.

MELBOURNE

Side Trips from Melbourne


VICTORIA


by Lee Mylne


M
M
ost visitors to Victoria start out exploring Melbourne’s
cosmopolitan streets before taking a few
day trips to the wineries or the gold fields around
the historic city of Ballarat. But that’s only a fraction of
what Victoria has to offer—this wonderfully diverse area is
worth a closer look.

The Murray River, which separates Victoria from New South Wales, has
been the lifeblood of the region, providing irrigation for vast tracts of
semidesert land. In recent years, as Australia’s drought has worsened, the
state of the once-mighty Murray has been a focus of environmental concerns;
you’re likely to still hear talk of this when you visit.

While devastating bushfires ravaged parts of Victoria in early 2009,
making headlines around the world, most of Victoria’s major tourist destinations
escaped the worst of the disaster. Parts of the High Country and
Gippsland may still be recovering when you visit, and this will give you a
first-hand look at the wonder of the Australian bush regenerating. And
the bush here is vast: Australia’s southernmost mainland state has 35
national parks, encompassing every possible terrain, from rainforest and
mountain ranges to sun-baked Outback desert and a coast where waves
crash dramatically onto rugged sandstone outcroppings.

This chapter covers the bulk of Victoria, but for more information on
the Dandenong Ranges, Yarra Valley, Phillip Island, Macedon Ranges,
Daylesford, and the Mornington Peninsula, see “Side Trips from Melbourne,”
in chapter 13.

BALLARAT: GOLD-RUSH
CITY


113km (70 miles) W of Melbourne

History buffs will love Ballarat. Victoria’s largest inland city (pop. 90,000)
is synonymous with two major events of Australia’s past: the gold rush of
the 1850s and the birth of Australian democracy in the early 20th century.
It all started with gold; in 1851 two prospectors found gold nuggets
scattered on the ground at a place known as, ironically, Poverty Point.
Within a year, 20,000 people had drifted into the area, and Australia’s El
Dorado gold rush had begun.

14



In 1858, the second-largest chunk of gold discovered in Australia (the Welcome
Nugget) was found, but by the early 1860s, most of the easily obtainable yellow
metal was gone. Larger operators continued digging until 1918, and by then Ballarat
had developed enough industry to survive without mining. Today, you can still see
the gold rush’s effects in the impressive buildings, built from the miners’ fortunes,
lining Ballarat’s streets.

Essentials

GETTING THERE From Melbourne, Ballarat is a 11.2-hour drive on the Great
Western Highway. V/Line (& 13 61 96 in Victoria, or 03/8608 5011; www.vline.
com.au) runs trains between the cities every day; the trip takes about 90 minutes.
The return fare is A$30 for adults and A$15 for children. Ask about off-peak and
family-saver fares.

Several companies offer day trips from Melbourne. They include AAT Kings

(& 1300/556 100 in Australia, or 03/9663 3377; www.aatkings.com). A full-day

tour costs A$146 for adults and A$73 for children.

14
VISITOR INFORMATION The Ballarat Visitor Information Centre is
located near the Prisoner-of-War Memorial at the Ballarat Botanic Gardens, near
Lake Wendoree (& 1800/446 633 in Australia, or 03/5320 5758; www.visit
ballarat.com.au). There is also an information center at the Ballarat Fine Art Gallery,
40 Lydiard St. N. Both are open daily from 9am to 5pm except Christmas Day.

Seeing the Sights

Art Gallery of Ballarat The highlight of a visit to this gallery—especially after
you’ve learned the story of the Eureka Uprising (see “A Eureka Moment,” p. 662)
is the sight of the original Eureka flag, made from petticoat fabric by the women of the
uprising and now enshrined here. This excellent gallery, founded in 1884, is Australia’s
oldest regional gallery and houses a fine collection of Australian art, including paintings
from the Heidelberg School and a stunning collection of 20th-century modernists.
It also hosts interesting contemporary exhibitions on popular themes.

40 Lydiard St. N. &03/5320 5858. www.balgal.com. Free admission. Daily 9am–5pm. Closed Dec 25.
Guided tours at 2pm Wed–Sun.

Ballarat Botanical Gardens These delightful gardens are suffering in Australia’s
drought conditions but still well worthwhile visiting. The gold-rich citizens of
Ballarat bestowed magnificent gifts on the gardens from its early days, including the
collection of 12 marble statues that now stand in the conservatory, the elegant
Statuary Pavilion and its contents—including the wonderful Flight from Pompeii—
and a statue of William Wallace near the gardens’ entrance. Other highlights include
Prime Ministers Avenue, lined with bronze busts of Australia’s 25 PMs, and the
striking Australian Ex-Prisoners of War Memorial at the southwestern end of the
gardens. One of the greatest attractions is an avenue of 70 giant redwoods, planted
about 130 years ago. The gardens’ cafe overlooks Lake Wendouree.

Wendouree Parade. & 03/5320 5135. www.ballarat.vic.gov.au. Free admission. Conservatory daily
9am–5pm. Bus: 16.

Blood on the Southern Cross


This breathtaking sound-and-light show
re-creates the Eureka Uprising, one of the most important events in Australia’s history.

VICTORIA

Ballarat: Gold-Rush City


Victoria


VICTORIA
Ballarat: Gold-1
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14
661


A eureka MOMENT


The story that is central to Ballarat’s his-and built a stockade over which they
tory, and many of its attractions, is that raised a flag. Troops arrived at the
of the Eureka Uprising in 1854. The “Eureka Stockade” the next month, but
story goes like this: After gold was dis-only 150 miners remained. The stockade
covered, the government introduced was attacked at dawn, with 24 miners
gold licenses, charging miners even if killed and 30 wounded. The uprising
they came up empty-handed. The min-forced the government to act: The
ers had to buy a license every month, licenses were replaced with “miners’
and corrupt gold-field police (many of rights” and cheaper fees, and the vote
whom were former convicts) instituted a was introduced to Victoria. It was a
vicious campaign to extract the money. definitive moment in Australia’s history
When license checks intensified in 1854, and the Eureka flag is still a potent (and
resentment flared. Prospectors began often controversial) symbol of nationaldemanding
political reforms, such as the ism. The original flag is on display at the
right to vote, parliamentary elections, Art Gallery of Ballarat (see below). The
and secret ballots. The situation Eureka Centre, a major attraction comexploded
when the Eureka Hotel’s memorating the event, is closed for an
owner murdered a miner but was set A$11-million redevelopment during 2011,
free by the government. The hotel was but visitors can still visit the original site
burned down in revenge, and more than of the uprising on Eureka Street—
20,000 prospectors joined together, though there’s not much to see there.
burned their licenses in a huge bonfire,

VICTORIA

Ballarat: Gold-Rush City

You will be outdoors, so bring something warm to wear, because it can get chilly at
night. It’s stirring stuff, and the reenactment does the story justice. The show runs
90 minutes and is full of surprises.

Sovereign Hill, Bradshaw St. & 03/5337 1199. www.sovereignhill.com.au. Reservations required.
Admission A$50 adults, A$27 children 5–15, A$134 families of 4. Package with daytime entry to Sovereign
Hill (see below) A$90 adults, A$45 children, A$238 families. Package with buffet dinner and stay
at Sovereign Hill Lodge (see below) A$190 adults, A$80 children, A$499 families. Call ahead for information
about other packages. 2 shows nightly (times vary seasonally).

The Gold Museum This surprisingly interesting museum houses a large collection
of gold nuggets found at Ballarat, as well as alluvial deposits, gold ornaments,
and coins. It also holds gallery displays relating to the history of gold mining in the
area. One hour should be enough to take in the museum.

Bradshaw St. (opposite Sovereign Hill). &03/5337 1107. Admission A$10 adults, A$5.20 children. See
Gold Pass (below). Daily 9:30am–5:20pm.

Sovereign Hill


Ballarat’s history all comes to life in the Colonial-era recreation
on Sovereign Hill. Australia’s best outdoor museum transports you back to
the 1850s and the heady days of the gold rush. More than 40 stone-and-wood reproduction
buildings, including shops and businesses on Main Street, sit on the
25-hectare (62-acre) former gold-mining site. There are also tent camps around the
diggings on the lowest part of the site, which would have been the outskirts of town.
There is a lot to see and do, so expect to spend at least 4 hours. The township


bustles with actors in period costumes going about their daily business. In addition
to seeing how miners and their families lived, visitors can pan for real gold, ride in
horse-drawn carriages, and watch potters, blacksmiths, and tanners make their
wares. Don’t miss the gold pour at the smelting works, or the redcoats as they parade
through the streets. On top of Sovereign Hill are the mine shafts and pithead equipment.
The guided tour of a typical underground gold mine takes around 45 minutes.
The Voyage to Discovery museum has artifacts from the gold rush, dioramas of
mining scenes, and interactive computer displays. A restaurant and several cafes,
coffee shops, and souvenir stores are around the site.

Bradshaw St. &03/5331 1944. www.sovereignhill.com.au. Admission (including mine tour and Gold
Museum) A$41 adults, A$19 children 5–15, A$75–A$104 families. Daily 10am–5pm. Closed Dec 25. Bus:
9 from Curtis St. or the railway station. A free bus meets the daily 9:08am (9:28am on Sun) train (the
“Goldrush Special” from Melbourne’s Southern Cross railway station) when it arrives at Ballarat Station,
and takes visitors direct to Sovereign Hill. Return service connects with the 4pm (4:10pm on Sat) train
back to Melbourne.

Where to Stay

Abena’s


This stylish cottage has three bedrooms, one with a romantic queensize
four-poster bed. The other rooms have a double bed and two singles respectively.
There’s a small garden at the back and plenty of space for a family. Gregarious
owner Sandy Guy provides the makings for a gourmet breakfast and is a font of
information about the city. If you don’t feel like cooking dinner, cross the road to the
Grapes Hotel, one of Ballarat’s great old pubs. If you do, there’s a full kitchen with
dishwasher, fridge, and microwave.
210 Grant St., Ballarat, VIC 3350. &03/5338 7397 or 0412/308 390 mobile phone. www.ballarat.com/
abenas. 3 units. A$160 double. A$20 extra person, A$15 children 2–12. Minimum 2-night stay. AE, DC,
MC, V. Free secure parking. In room: A/C, TV/DVD, CD player, hair dryer, kitchen.

Craig’s Royal Hotel Built in 1853, this lovely old landmark has been slowly
restored over the past 6 years or so. Each room is different in size and shape and has
been given an individual look of its own—ranging from the utterly romantic to the
fabulously ornate. Among the most special are the Anglo-Japanese suite and the
bedroom furnished with an antique Chinese wedding bed. While still a pub at heart,
the hotel offers some of Ballarat’s finest accommodation, with wonderful attention
to detail and a true sense of history.

10 Lydiard St. S, Ballarat, VIC 3350. &03/5331 1377. Fax 03/5331 7103. www.craigsroyal.com.au. 41
units. A$230–A$500 double. Ask about packages. Rates include breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking.
Amenities: 2 restaurants; 2 bars. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, free Internet.

Kingsley Place


If you’d enjoy staying in a historic house, you might want
to try this grand gentleman’s residence built in the gold-rush days. The house has
three bedrooms and two bathrooms (one with a Jacuzzi). Two rooms have queen-size
beds and the third has a double. The house also has an open fireplace (don’t worry,
there’s central heating, too, if you prefer), and full laundry facilities. A continental
breakfast is provided for your first morning. The owners also have a similar heritage
cottage available in Creswick, about 15km (9 miles) outside Ballarat.

85 Victoria St., Ballarat, VIC 3350. &03/5332 8296. Fax 03/5331 3358. www.heritagehomestay.com.
A$350 double weekdays, A$450 double weekends. 2-night minimum. Extra adult A$30; extra child 17
and under A$15. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Kitchen, TV lounge. In room: TV/VCR, CD player, hair dryer.

14
VICTORIA

Ballarat: Gold-

663


Sovereign Hill Lodge The colonial-style wooden buildings adjacent to Sovereign
Hill were built to resemble an 1850s government camp that was used to control
(and tax) the minefields. The Residence building has rooms with queen-size beds
and a set of single bunks, and the Offices building has heritage rooms with fourposter
beds and Baltic pine furnishings, some with Jacuzzis. There are eight double
rooms in the Superintendent’s house; the Barracks houses dorm rooms that sleep up
to 10 people, with shared bathroom facilities. There’s a bar, 24-hour reception, and
a game room. Guests get a 10% discount off entry to Sovereign Hill. Steinfeld’s is
a new accommodation complex at the top of Sovereign Hill’s Main Street, so visitors
can stay in the heart of the recreated goldfields town. The building, formerly a furniture
warehouse, has been transformed to create four guest rooms across the front
of the building; the large lounge room has views down Main Street. Steinfeld’s is
booked through Sovereign Hill Lodge.

Magpie St., Ballarat, VIC 3350. &03/5333 3409. Fax 03/5333 5861. www.sovereignhill.com.au. 37
units. A$135–A$175 double; A$68 double for Barracks. Ask about the many packages. AE, DC, MC, V.
Free parking. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; babysitting. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer.

14

Where to Dine

Eclectic Tastes CAFE You might find it hard to concentrate on your breakfast,
lunch, or coffee and snack, as your eyes will be on the surroundings, which live up
to the cafe’s name—it’s five rooms packed to the rafters with colorful trash and
treasure! Your menu is pasted inside the cardboard covers of a Little Golden Book
(think The Shy Little Kitten and other titles from your childhood) and might include
a great Thai chicken curry, a seafood laksa, or something more simple, like a sandwich.
You’ll find it opposite the Ballarat Cemetery (also worth a wander through)
near the shores of Lake Wendouree.

2 Burbank St., Ballarat. &03/5339 9252. Main courses A$7–A$18. MC, V. Daily 9am–4pm; Wed–Sun 6–9pm.

Oscar’s CONTEMPORARY This cafe and bar inside one of Ballarat’s historic old
pubs is in the heart of the town, walking distance from shopping, the art gallery, and
many other attractions. The former gold rush–era hotel was redeveloped in 2003,
and now has an appealing open-plan restaurant, with a courtyard and bar. It’s open
for breakfast, lunch, and dinner and you can get snacks all day. Meals include Asian,
pizzas, pasta, steaks, and gluten-free dishes.

18 Doveton St. S., Ballarat. &03/5331 1451. Reservations recommended. Main courses A$19–A$32. AE,
DC, MC, V. Daily 7am–10pm.

THE GREAT OCEAN ROAD


Geelong: 75km (47 miles) SW of Melbourne; Torquay: 94km (58 miles) SW of Melbourne; Port Campbell
National Park: 285km (177 miles) SW of Melbourne; Peterborough: 200km (124 miles) SW of Melbourne;
Warrnambool: 263km (163 miles) SW of Melbourne

The Great Ocean Road—which hugs the coast from Torquay through Anglesea,
Lorne, Apollo Bay, Port Campbell, and Peterborough, until it ends at Warrnambool—
is one of Australia’s most spectacular drives. The scenery along the 106km
(66-mile) route includes huge cliffs, ocean vistas, beaches, rainforests, and some
incredible rock formations. The most spectacular section is the 27km (17-mile)
stretch between Princeton (the start of Port Campbell National Park) and

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The Great Ocean Road


Peterborough. The settlements along the highway are small, but they offer a number
of accommodations.

The main attractions are in the coastal Port Campbell National Park, so don’t be
surprised if you’re not overly impressed until you get there. If you are traveling on to
Adelaide, you could stop off for a night along the Great Ocean Road and spend
another night in the Coorong in South Australia (see p. 600).

Essentials

ORGANIZED TOURS Even on an organized tour, when you are not doing the
driving, I’d be reluctant to try this in 1 day unless absolutely pressed for time. All the
tours which operate to the Great Ocean Road take around 12 hours (sometimes
more), which makes for a big day out. The large coach operator AAT Kings
(& 03/9663 3377; www.aatkings.com) runs daily trips which cost A$159 for
adults, and A$90 for children. Gray Line Sightseeing Tours (&1300/858 687
in Australia, or 03/9663 4455; www.grayline.com) also has day trips for a similar
price and duration. A better option would be Gray Line’s 2-day Great Ocean Road
tour, which overnights in Lorne. It costs A$373 adults double (single rate is A$455)
and A$142 for children.

Wild-Life Tours (& 1300/661 730 in Australia, or 03/9396 1938; www.wild
lifetours.com.au) offers several well-priced multiday backpacker-style tours that take
in the Great Ocean Road tour from Melbourne. A 1-day tour costs A$95, and a 2-day
tour which overnights at Hall’s Gap and also takes in the Grampians (p. 680) costs
A$169. Hostel-style accommodations are extra: A$23 for a dorm bed or A$60 for a
twin or double room.

Autopia Tours (&1800/000 507 in Australia, or 03/9419 8878; www.autopia
tours.com.au) offers a 1-day tour from Melbourne that takes in all the sights and
includes lunch and a bushwalk in the fabulous Otway National Park. It costs A$125.
The company also does a more relaxed 3-day tour, including the Grampians (see

p. 680). This costs upwards from A$445, with dorm accommodations both nights,
but you can upgrade to double or single rooms.
VISITOR INFORMATION Most places along the route have their own information
centers. If you’re coming from Melbourne, stop at the Geelong & Great
Ocean Road Visitors Centre, Princess Highway, Little River, VIC 3214 (&1800/
620 888 in Australia, or 03/5283 1735; www.visitgreatoceanroad.org.au). You can
book accommodations here, which you should do in advance, especially in summer.
The website gives you plenty of tour options. There’s also a visitor center at the
National Wool Museum, 26 Moorabool St. (at Brougham St.), Geelong (&1800/
620 888 in Australia, or 03/5222 2900).

Along the route, the Twelve Apostles Visitor Information Centre, 26 Morris
St., Port Campbell (& 1300/137 255 in Australia or 03/5598 6089; www.visit12
apostles.com.au), is a good place to pick up brochures. It has some interesting displays
and an audiovisual show, and also acts as a hotel-booking service for the area. All these
information centers are open from 9am to 5pm daily, except Christmas Day.

Exploring the Coastal Road

Along the route you might want to stop off at Torquay, a township dedicated to
surfing. The main surf beach is much nicer than the one farther down the coast in

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665


Lorne. Check out Surfworld Museum, Surfcity Plaza, Beach Road, West Torquay
(& 03/5261 4606; www.surfworld.org.au), which has exhibits dealing with surfboard
design and surfing history, and video of the world’s best surfers. Admission is
A$10 for adults, A$6 for children, and A$20 for families of five. It’s open 9am to
5pm daily, except December 25. Bells Beach, just down the road, is world famous
in surfing circles for its perfect waves.

Lorne has some nice boutiques and is a good place to stop for lunch or stay the
night. The stretch from Lorne to Apollo Bay is one of the most spectacular sections
of the route; the road narrows and twists and turns along a cliff edge with the ocean
on the other side. Apollo Bay is a pleasant town that was once a whaling station. It
has good sandy beaches and is more low-key than Lorne.

Next you come to the Angahook-Lorne State Park, which protects most of the
coastal section of the Otway Ranges from Aireys Inlet, south of Anglesea, to Kennett
River. It has many well-marked rainforest walks and picnic areas at Shelly Beach,
Elliot River, and Blanket Bay. There’s plenty of wildlife around.

About 13km (8 miles) past Apollo Bay, just off the main road, you can stroll on

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the Maits Rest Rainforest Boardwalk. A little farther along the main road, an
unpaved road leads north past Hopetoun Falls and Beauchamp Falls to the settlement
of Beech Forest. Seven kilometers (41. miles) farther along the main road,

3

another unpaved road heads south for 15km (91.3 miles) to a windswept headland
and the Cape Otway Lightstation (& 03/5237 9240; www.lightstation.com),
one of several along the coast. Built by convicts in 1848, the 100m-tall (328-ft.)
lighthouse is open to tourists. Admission is A$17 for adults, A$7.50 for children
under 18, and A$42 for families of 6, including a guided tour of the lighthouse. It’s
open daily from 9am to 5pm. The lighthouse is manned by a guide, who will greet
you at the top of the tower to recount stories of the Cape’s traditional owners, shipwrecks,
the colorful lighthouse keepers, and much more, including one of Australia’s
most famous UFO mysteries. The Lightkeeper’s Shipwreck Discovery Tour, which
runs twice a day from 10am to noon or 2 to 4pm, takes you away from the Lightstation
to nearby related sites including Parker River inlet and Blanket Bay, and you will
see the remains of shipwrecks lost in the treacherous Bass Strait and Southern
Ocean. Morning or afternoon tea is included at the Lightkeeper’s Cafe and the tour
continues in the Lightstation grounds. The cost is A$36 adults and A$21 children.

Back on the main road, your route heads inland through an area known as Horden
Vale before running to the sea at Glenaire—there’s good surfing and camping
at Johanna, 6km (33.4 miles) north of here. Then the Great Ocean Road heads north
again to Lavers Hill, a former timber town. Five kilometers (3 miles) southwest of
Lavers Hill is small Melba Gully State Park, where you can spot glowworms at
night and walk along routes of rainforest ferns. Keep an eye out for one of the last
giant gum trees that escaped the loggers—it’s some 27m (88 ft.) in circumference
and is estimated to be more than 300 years old.

The next place of note is Moonlight Head, which marks the start of the Shipwreck
Coast—a 120km (74-mile) stretch running to Port Fairy that claimed more
than 80 ships in only 40 years at the end of the 19th century and the beginning of
the 20th.

Just past Princetown starts the biggest attraction of the trip, Port Campbell

National Park . With its sheer cliffs and coastal rock sculptures, it’s one of the

most immediately recognizable images of natural Australia. You can’t miss the

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The Great Ocean Road


Getting out of your car and walking at
least a part of Victoria’s spectacular
west coast is well worth the effort. The
Great Ocean Walk stretches 91km (56
miles) from Apollo Bay to Glenample
Homestead (near the Twelve Apostles),
passing through National Parks and
overlooking the Marine National Park
and Sanctuary. The trail has been
designed so walkers can “step on” or
“step off” at a number of places, com-
pleting short walks of around 2 hours,
up to day or overnight hikes. If you are
planning to stay overnight, you must
register with Parks Victoria (&13 19
63; www.greatoceanwalk.com.au) at
least 2 weeks ahead. Camping fees are
A$22 per tent site per night. The walk
winds through beautiful and remote
areas such as Station Beach and Moon-
light Head, which were previously diffi-
cult to access. It also reveals wet fern
and rainforest gullies, which have huge
specimens of the world’s tallest flower-
ing tree, the mountain ash; crosses
coastal heathlands; and goes in and out
of the sheltered coastal estuaries of the
Aire and Gellibrand rivers. Check the
website for detailed information on all
aspects of the walk, including guided
walks, assisted overnight walks with
tour operators, camping and walking
equipment hire, and food provision.
The Great Ocean Walk The Great Ocean Walk
Twelve Apostles, a series of rock pillars (actually, there are eight left standing) in
the foam just offshore. Other attractions are the Blowhole, which throws up huge
sprays of water; the Grotto, a rock formation intricately carved by the waves; London
Bridge, which looked quite like the real thing until the center crashed into the
sea in 1990 (leaving a bunch of tourists stranded on the wrong end); and the Loch
Ard Gorge. Port Fairy, a lovely fishing town once called Belfast by Irish immigrants
who settled here to escape the potato famine, is also on the Shipwreck Coast.

Not far past the town of Peterborough, the Great Ocean Road heads inland to
Warrnambool. It eventually joins the Princes Highway heading toward Adelaide.

Where to Stay Along the Way

The Great Ocean Road Accommodation Centre, 136 Mountjoy Parade, Lorne,
VIC 3232 (& 03/5289 4233; www.gorac.com.au), rents cottages and units along
the route.

IN LORNE

Lorne is a good option for a night’s rest. The beach is nothing special, but it’s a great
place to learn to surf. There are plenty of restaurants and lots of boutiques.

Cumberland Lorne Conference & Leisure Resort


This large resort
sticks out conspicuously between the sea and the foothills of the Otway Ranges.
Still, I highly recommend it—it’s a good deal, and quite luxurious. Every apartment
has a queen-size bed and a sofa bed, a kitchen, a laundry, a Jacuzzi, a balcony, Internet
access, free in-house movies, and a CD player. All units have large bathrooms
with tub/shower combinations. More than half of the rooms have panoramic ocean
views; the rest overlook gardens. Two-bedroom apartments have two extra single
beds, and split-level penthouses have two Jacuzzis and two balconies.

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667


150–178 Mountjoy Parade, Lorne, VIC 3232. &1800/037 010 in Australia, or 03/5289 2400. Fax 03/
5289 2256. www.cumberland.com.au. 99 units. A$270–A$330 1-bedroom apt, A$355–A$415 2-bedroom
apt, A$480–A$510 penthouse. Rates are higher in peak season (Easter and summer), when 2-
and 3-night minimum stays apply. Stays must include a Fri and Sat night on weekends. Ask about
packages. AE, DC, MC, V. Free covered parking. Amenities: Restaurant; babysitting; bikes; children’s
center; concierge; exercise room; Jacuzzi; heated indoor pool and toddlers’ pool; room service; sauna;
spa; 2 lit tennis courts. In room: A/C, TV w/pay movies, hair dryer, kitchenette, Wi-Fi (A$13 for 2 hr.).

Great Ocean Road Cottages


This complex has it all, although with so many
people (and quite a few children) around, it can be a little noisy in summer. The
self-contained cottages, set away from one another in a quiet patch of bushland, lie
about a 5-minute walk from the town center. Each cottage is a two-story wooden hut
with a double bed, two twin beds, and a pullout mattress. There’s also a bathroom
and a full kitchen and free laundry facilities. Also on the property is Great Ocean
Road Backpackers (& 03/5289 1809; www.yha.com.au), which offers dormstyle
accommodations. It has 30 dorm beds, three double rooms and one twin room,
and two family rooms (each with a queen-size bed and two singles). Dorms for YHA
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members are A$20 and A$24 for nonmembers; doubles and twin rooms are A$55
and A$65; family rooms are A$75 to A$90.

10 Erskine Ave. (P.O. Box 60), Lorne, VIC 3232. &03/5289 1070. Fax 03/5289 2508. www.greatocean
roadcottages.com. 10 cottages. A$150 double weekdays; A$170 double Sat–Sun. Extra adult A$25,
extra child A$10. Minimum 7-night stay in high season (Dec 26–Jan 26). AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities:
Bikes; Jacuzzi. In room: A/C, TV/VCR, hair dryer, kitchenette.

IN APOLLO BAY
Chris’s Beacon Point Villas Perched high in the Otways, above the Great
Ocean Road, these villas have wonderful views of the coast. Host Chris Talihmanidis
is well known as a local restaurateur, with a passion for the food of southern
Europe. There are two studios and six self-contained, stylishly furnished two-bedroom
villas, all with the same panoramic views. Villas have a queen-size bed and a
double or two singles, while studios sleep two in a king-size bed. Don’t miss the
chance to eat at Chris’s award-winning restaurant.

280 Skenes Creek Rd., Apollo Bay, VIC 3233. &03/5237 6411. Fax 03/5237 6930. www.chriss.com.au.
8 units. A$290–A$320 double studio; A$265–A$320 villa (sleeps 4). Rates include breakfast. AE, DC,
MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; babysitting. In room: TV/VCR w/pay movies, kitchen, free Wi-Fi.

IN PORT CAMPBELL
Macka’s Farm Lodge



If you have kids, this working farm inland from
the Twelve Apostles may be just the place for a break from touring. The units all
have kitchens, so you can cook your own feast. Otherwise, you can order meals by
prior arrangement outside peak season, or visit one of the nearby restaurants. There
are four self-contained lodges and a farmhouse. The lodges form the “homestead”
complex and have wonderful views across the farm, bush, and to the ocean. Two of
them sleep three people. The third lodge has three bedrooms, with a queen-size bed,
a king-size bed (interchangeable to two singles), and a bedroom with singles and
bunks. The fourth lodge has two bedrooms, each with a queen-size bed. The farmhouse
has four bedrooms, three with queen-size beds, one with four singles. All have
a TV, DVD, and CD player—but you may not even turn them on, when there are
lots of piglets, calves, ducks, and chickens running around to entertain the kids.
Overall, it’s a great farm experience.

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RSD 2305 Princetown Rd., Princetown, VIC 3269. &03/5598 8261. Fax 03/5598 8201. www.mackas
farm.com.au. 5 units. A$150–A$320, depending on the house, the number in your group, and the season
(check the website because there are dozens of different price categories). MC, V. From the Twelve
Apostles, go 2km (11.4 miles), turn at the sign for Macka’s Farm, and go 4km (21.2 miles) inland. In room:
TV, DVD, CD player, hair dryer, kitchen.

Where to Dine

Marks Restaurant


CONTEMPORARY Seaside chic, friendly staff, and great
food are a winning recipe for this favorite with locals and travelers. Marks is a stylish,
simple, and smart bistro, with an emphasis on seafood and local produce. The menu
changes every day, depending on what’s freshly available, but some things are constants:
oysters, mussels, local whitebait, Atlantic salmon, usually some game such as
duck or kangaroo, and there’s also—a relative rarity in restaurants—always an offal
dish. Vegetarians are also well catered for. The signature dessert is chocolate
mousse. There’s a good wine list, or you can BYO (corkage charge A$7 per bottle).
124 Mount Joy Parade, Lorne. &03/5289 2787. www.marksrestaurant.com.au. Main courses A$17–
A$16. AE, MC, V. Daily 6–10pm. Closed Aug and Sept. Check first, because opening days do change.

The Victoria Hotel


CONTEMPORARY Built in 1874, this historic bluestone
pub in Port Fairy is a great place to recharge your batteries while driving the Great
Ocean Road. By day, you can eat in the casual cafe overlooking the courtyard; by
night it is transformed into an a la carte restaurant. As well as traditional pub favorites
like fish and chips, you’re likely to find the menu includes dishes such as lamb
curry, Scotch fillet, fresh fish—changing daily—and delicious pasta. There’s often
live music in the courtyard on Friday or Saturday nights.
42 Bank St., Port Fairy. &03/5568 2891. www.thevichotelportfairy.com.au. Main courses A$11–A$18
at lunch, A$16–A$28 at dinner. AE, DC, MC, V. Tues–Sun noon–2pm and 6pm–late.

THE MURRAY RIVER


Mildura: 544km (337 miles) NW of Melbourne; Albury-Wodonga: 305km (189 miles) NE of Melbourne;
Echuca: 210km (130 miles) N of Melbourne

Though it’s a rushing torrent of white water at its source in the Snowy Mountains,
the Murray River becomes slow and muddy brown by the time it forms the meandering
border between Victoria and New South Wales. The Darling River, which starts
in Queensland, feeds the Murray; together they make Australia’s longest river.
Drought has made the fate of the Murray one of Australia’s greatest environmental
concerns in recent years, and by the time you get here, it may well be a trickle of its
former self. That said, its importance is unlikely to diminish, one way or another—it
is a river close to Australians’ hearts.

Aborigines once used the Murray as a source of food and transportation, and later
the water carried paddle steamers, laden with wool and crops from the land it helped
irrigate. In 1842, the Murray was “discovered” by explorers Hamilton Hume and
William Howell on the first overland trek from Sydney to Port Phillip, near Melbourne.
You can still see Hume’s carved initials on a tree standing by the riverbank
in Albury, on the border between the two states.

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669


Essentials

GETTING THERE Most visitors cross the river during an overland drive between
cities. There are two ways to the Murray from Melbourne: the 21.2-hour route down
the Midland Highway to Echuca, and the Calder Highway to Mildura, a 6-hour
drive. Traveling from Melbourne to Mildura is practical only if you’re continuing to
Broken Hill, which is 297km (184 miles) north of Mildura. Those in a hurry to get
to and from Sydney can travel via the river-straddling twin towns of Albury-Wodonga
on the Hume Highway (about a 12-hr. trip with short stops).

Virgin Blue (& 13 67 89 in Australia; www.virginblue.com.au) and Qantas

(&13 13 13 in Australia; www.qantas.com.au) both operate daily flights to Mildura

from Melbourne.

V/Line (&13 61 96; www.vline.com.au) runs regular train service to Mildura,
Echuca, and Albury–Wodonga.

VISITOR INFORMATION The Echuca-Moama Visitor Information Centre,
2 Heygarth St., Echuca, VIC 3564 (&1800/804 446 in Australia, or 03/5480

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7555; fax 03/5482 6413; www.echucamoama.com), has plenty of maps and information
about accommodations and river cruises. It’s open daily from 9am to 5pm
(closed Dec 25). The Mildura Visitor Information & Booking Centre, 180–190
Deakin Ave., Mildura, VIC 3502 (&1800/039 043 in Australia or 03/5018 8380;
fax 03/5021 1836; www.visitmildura.com.au), offers similar services. It’s open Monday
through Friday from 9am to 5:30pm and weekends and public holidays from
9am to 5pm (closed Dec 25). If you’re passing through Albury–Wodonga, contact
the Gateway Visitor Information Centre, Lincoln Causeway, Wodonga, VIC
3690 (& 1300/796 222 or 02/6051 3750; www.destinationalburywodonga.com.
au). It’s open daily from 9am to 5pm (closed Dec 25).

River Cruises

IN MILDURA Mildura is one of Australia’s most important fruit-growing areas,
but it also has the reputation as a hot spot for food and wine and the arts. There was
a time, however, when this was semi-arid red-dust country. The area bloomed
because of a little ingenuity and, of course, the Murray. The original irrigation system
consisted of two English water pumps and the manual labor of hundreds of
immigrants, who worked clearing scrub and digging channels through the new
fields. Today, the hungry land soaks up water and everyone prays for rain.

Several paddle steamers leave from Mildura wharf to cruise the Murray. One of
the nicest boats is the PS Melbourne (& 03/5023 2200 or mobile phone
0409/502 322; www.murrayriver.com.au), which was built in 1912 and is still powered
by steam. It offers 2-hour trips leaving at 10:50am and 1:50pm daily (check
times in advance as they do change). The fare is A$25 for adults and A$15 for children
14 to 17 or A$10 for children 5 to 13, free for children under 5.

The Melbourne’s sister ship, the Rothbury, was built in 1881; a conventional
engine has replaced its steam engine. It offers a winery cruise every Thursday from
10:30am to 3:30pm, stopping at a winery for tastings and a barbecue lunch. The trip
costs A$60 for adults, A$48 for children 14 to 17, and A$28 for children 5 to 13.
The Rothbury has evening dinner cruises Thursday from 7 to 10pm for A$58 for
adults, A$46 children 14 to 17, and A$26 for children 5 to 13. From September to
April (excluding February and public holidays), it runs a Tuesday lunch cruise which

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The Murray River


costs A$26 adults, A$16 children 14 to 17, and A$10 children 5 to 13. It leaves at
11:30am and returns at 3pm. You buy your own lunch at the historic Gol Gol Hotel,
with special rates for Rothbury passengers.

IN ECHUCA The paddle steamer Emmylou (& 03/5480 2237; fax 03/5480
2927; www.emmylou.com.au) operates out of Echuca. The Emmylou offers short trips
costing A$25 for adults and A$11 for kids ages 1 to 15, or A$65 for a family of four for
1 hour, leaving at 10am and 3pm; and 90-minute lunch cruises costing A$29 for adults,
A$14 for kids, or A$75 for families, leaving at 11:15am and 1pm. Three-hour dinner
cruises cost A$98 adults and A$50 children. Emmylou also has an overnight cruise,
leaving at 6pm and returning at 9:30am the next day (check sailings beforehand). It
costs A$195 to A$250 per person, including breakfast and dinner. A 2-day, 2-night
cruise leaves Wednesday at 6pm and returns at noon on Friday. The cruise includes
(depending on river levels) a visit to the Barmah, an area famous for its wetlands and
the largest red gum trees in the world, or a stop at Perricoota Station. The trip costs
A$400 to A$500 per person, including meals. Three-night cruises are also available.

The Port of Echuca (&03/5482 4248; www.portofechuca.org.au) is definitely
worth a look. The three-level red-gum wharf was built in 1865 and is still in use by
paddle steamers. The Port owns the PS Adelaide, the oldest operating woodenhulled
paddle steamer in the world (1866), the PS Pevensey (1911), and the PS
Alexander Arbuthnot (1923). One-hour cruises, including a port tour, run daily at

10:15 and 11:30am, and 1:15 and 2:30pm, with an extra tour at 3:45pm on weekends
and public and school holidays. They cost A$20 for adults, A$9 for children 4
to 14, and A$52 for families. You can look around the wharf on a guided tour, priced
at A$12 for adults and A$8 for children, and A$35 for a family. A combined cruise/
tour ticket makes it cheaper. Outside the Port, the Echuca Port Precinct offers various
things to do, including carriage rides and old penny arcade machines in Sharpes
Magic Movies, in an old riverboat warehouse.
A TRIP INTO THE OUTBACK Mungo National Park


is a unique arid
region 110km (68 miles) northeast of Mildura, off the Sturt Highway, in New South
Wales. The park is famous for its red dunes and shifting sands (so it’s best to have a
four-wheel-drive vehicle to get around it). The most famous feature of the park is
the Walls of China, a moonscape of weathered red sand. The walls edge Lake
Mungo, once a huge freshwater lake during the last Ice Age, now dry. A 60km (37mile)
driving tour starting at the visitor center at the park’s entrance takes you across
the lake bed to the Walls of China. You must pay an A$7 per car entry fee at the
visitors center at the park entrance. Several short walks also begin here. Just outside
the park, the newly renovated Mungo Lodge (&03/5029 7297; fax 03/5029 7296;
www.mungolodge.com.au) offers 17 air-conditioned, contemporary cabins with luxury
touches such as bathrobes and slippers. Each has a small deck to sit out on.
Rates are A$500 double, A$630 double family cabin (sleeps four), or A$780 double
for a self-contained cabin (sleeps four). Extra person A$65. The lodge has a good
restaurant and a smart lounge area with a bar and two fireplaces. For visitors on a
budget, the Shearers Quarters (&03/5021 8900 for bookings), near the visitors
center, has five rooms with combinations of double, twin, and bunk beds, sleeping
up to 26 people, but you will need your own bedding (sleeping bags and so on). Only
four rooms have air-conditioning. There is a fully equipped communal kitchen/dining
room, and barbecues, as well as a toilet block and hot showers. Rates are A$30
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ned kelly COUNTRY


The bushranger Ned Kelly is an Australian
icon. His story is a legend, and Kelly
is a folk hero to many people. Opinion
can be divided, but there’s no question
that his tale still resonates 125 years
after the events that made him famous.
Now, the area of Victoria in which he
lived is called “Kelly Country,” and in
2005, to mark the anniversary of his
death, the government created the Ned
Kelly Touring Route (www.nedkelly
touringroute.com.au), linking important
sites in the story.

Ned Kelly was the eldest of eight
children born to Irish parents in Victoria
in 1854. When Ned was 12, his father
died and the family moved to be near
relatives at Greta, 240km (150 miles)
northeast of Melbourne. Like many poor
families, the Kellys took up the government’s
offer of cheap land and battled
to clear the bushland, build a house, and
plant crops. More often than not, the
land parcels were too small and the soil
too poor for them to make a living.

At 16, Ned was convicted of horserustling
and sentenced to 3 years in jail.

A few years later, his mother was imprisoned
for attacking a police officer
named Fitzpatrick, who was accused of
attacking Ned’s sister first. During the
scuffle, Ned shot Fitzpatrick through the
wrist. Ned escaped—with a bounty on
his head.

On October 26, 1878, together with
friends Joe Byrne and Steve Hart, Ned
and his brother Dan came across police
camped at Stringy Bark Creek. Ned
believed the police intended to kill him,
so he called on them to surrender. Three
officers resisted, and in the fight that
followed Ned Kelly shot them dead.

In the years that followed, the Kelly
Gang avoided capture with the help of
sympathetic locals. They robbed two
banks, and during each robbery Ned
gave his hostages a letter, explaining to
the government how he’d been persecuted
by police.

In June 1880, police surrounded the
Kelly Gang at the Glenrowan Hotel. Prepared
for the fight, the four bushrangers
put on homemade suits of armor. It was
no use—Ned’s body took 28 bullets, and

per adult per night (16 years and over), A$10 per child per night (5–15 years); children
under 5 years free. Minimum charge of A$50 per night. Contact the National
Parks & Wildlife Service NSW (& 1300/361 967 in Australia; www.national
parks.nsw.gov.au) for more information.

Where to Stay

IN MILDURA
Quality Hotel Mildura Grand


This 19th-century hotel is right in the
center of Mildura, overlooking the Murray River. Double rooms are comfortable, and
many have been refurbished. Suites are bigger, and some have balconies and garden
views. State suites are plush and come with a king-size bed. The Presidential Suite
(the most expensive) is Art Deco inspired, with a large marble bathroom and Jacuzzi.
This place is famous for the multi-award-winning Stefano’s , one of several
dining spots run by celeb chef Stefano de Pieri. There is no menu, just a fixed price
of A$95 for a five-course Italian meal.

Seventh St., Mildura, VIC 3500. &1800/034 228 in Australia, or 03/5023 0511. Fax 03/5022 1801. www.
qualityhotelmilduragrand.com.au. 102 units. A$100–A$200 double; A$230–A$400 suite. Rates include


the others were all killed. Ned was
hanged in Old Melbourne Gaol (see

p. 629 in chapter 13) on November 11,
1880. He was 25 years old.
Historic Beechworth, one of Victoria’s
best-preserved gold-rush towns, is a
good base for exploring this region.
There are more than 30 buildings listed
by the National Trust here, from pubs,
churches, and government offices to
miners’ cottages and the jail where Ned
Kelly was imprisoned. For stylish selfcontained
accommodations, the charming
Stone Cottage, 6 Taswell St. (&03/
57 282857 or 0411/324 797 mobile
phone; fax 03/5728 2857), is ideal for
two people. The cottage has a roomy
attic bedroom with a queen-size bed
and windows overlooking the garden.
Downstairs is a cozy sitting room (with
a roaring log fire on those chilly nights),
a dining area, and a kitchen. It costs
A$160 double. For a little pampering,
check out the Spa at Beechworth
(&03/5728 3033; www.thespaat
beechworth.com.au), a day spa located

in the gorgeous Birches Building on
Albert Road, which was once a lunatic
asylum. (They don’t mince words in
these parts.)

You can also visit Glenrowan, a quiet
little town surrounded by wineries and
orchards. Here you’ll find a 6m-high
(20-ft.) outdoor statue of Ned Kelly clad
in his homemade armor and helmet,
with rifle in hand, as well as a couple of
small museums full of Kelly memorabilia—
and much more besides.

Other towns on the route include
Avenel, Benalla, Mansfield, and Jerilderie
in southern New South Wales. You can
pick up a touring route brochure from
the Old Melbourne Gaol before setting
out, or from the Beechworth Visitor
Information Centre, in the town hall,
Ford Street (&1300/366 321 in Australia,
or 03/5728 8065; www.beechworth
online.com.au). Other information centers
will also have them.

14
VICTORIA

The Murray River

breakfast. Extra person A$30. Children 11 and under stay free in parent’s room. Ask about packages. AE,
DC, MC, V. Limited undercover parking. Amenities: 5 restaurants; 4 bars; babysitting; concierge; executive
rooms; golf course nearby; gymnasium; Jacuzzi; large heated outdoor pool; room service; sauna.
In room: A/C, TV w/free movies, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (A$3.30 for 30 min. to A$28 for 24 hr.).

IN ECHUCA
Echuca Gardens B&B and YHA Accommodations here are all self-contained,
but you have a choice of style. There are the reproduction gypsy wagons, suitable for
couples, the guesthouse for up to four people (in part of the owner’s home, but with
its own entrance), or the restored 140-year-old cottage which sleeps up to 10. All are
set in landscaped water gardens and just a short walk from the river or a state forest.
The cottage has three bedrooms—two with bunk beds—and is a good option for
families or groups. It has a full kitchen and two bathrooms, and a private backyard
with a barbecue.

103 Mitchell St., Echuca, VIC 3564. &03/5480 6522 or 0419 881 054 mobile. Fax 03/5482 6951. www.
echucagardens.com. A$80–A$160 gypsy wagon; A$110–A$220 guesthouse; A$140–A$280 cottage,
depending on the season. Minimum 2-night stay, 3 nights in peak seasons. No children in the gypsy
wagons. MC, V. Amenities: Bikes; Jacuzzi; sauna. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer.

673


Bright

310km (193 miles) NE of Melbourne; 700km (435 miles) SW of Sydney; 74km (46 miles) E of Wangaratta

Set in a valley and surrounded by pine forests, Bright offers good access to the surrounding
High Country and ski fields. The town is famous for the colors of its
European trees in fall. There are nice walks around here, especially along the pretty
Ovens River, while another option is to hire bicycles and take off through the countryside
down a former railway track. Cycling at least part of the Rail Trail


(www.
railtrail.com.au) will give you a nice feel for the area, with its surrounding mountains,
farms, and river. The track stretches 94km (58 miles) from Bright to Wangaratta.
Rent bikes (and skis, if you’re off to the snowfields) in Bright.
ESSENTIALS
GETTING THERE V/Line trains (www.vline.com.au) run between Melbourne
and Bright, via Wangaratta or Seymour, daily. Return fares cost A$54 and the trip
takes about 41.2 hours, with a bus between Wangaratta or Seymour and Bright. How


14 ever, it’s difficult to get around the area without your own transport.

VISITOR INFORMATION Stop by the Alpine Visitors Centre, 119 Gavan
St., Bright (& 1800/111 885 in Australia or 03/5750 1233; www.brightvictoria.
com.au), open 9am to 5pm daily (except Christmas Day and Good Friday). Another
useful website is www.visitalpinevictoria.com.au.

WHERE TO STAY & DINE

The website www.alpinelink.com.au offers a comprehensive list of places to stay
in Bright. The best place to eat is Simone’s of Bright, 98 Gavan St. (&03/5755
2266; www.simonesrestaurant.com.au). It serves great Italian food in a refined
atmosphere, with main courses around A$35. It is open Tuesday to Saturday for
dinner only. Otherwise, Bright has plenty of family-friendly cafes, restaurants, and
pizza joints.

Alinga–Longa Holiday Units The large two-bedroom units here are spacious,
clean, and comfortable. They are nothing special, but fine for a couple of days,
especially if you’re traveling with kids. The full kitchen means you never have to eat
out, and there’s also a barbecue area.

12 Gavan St. (Great Alpine Rd.), Bright, VIC 3741. &03/5755 1073. www.alingalongaholidays.com.au.
6 units. A$100–A$180 double. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Bikes; small outdoor pool. In room: A/C, TV/
VCR, kitchen, free Wi-Fi.

Villa Gusto This luxury Italian-style villa caters to only 18 guests. Built at the foot
of Mount Buffalo, with dramatic views, it is furnished with antiques and leather
sofas, and is set on a little less than a hectare (2 acres) of Tuscan gardens. The
central focus is the Great Room, with a log fire, and there is also an in-house cinema.
The Grande Suite and three deluxe suites have Jacuzzis, and all have private
terraces. There are also such luxury touches as bathrobes, Bulgari toiletries, and fine
linens. A five-course Italian degustation menu is available from the restaurant for
A$70 per person, but bookings are essential. The villa is about 6km (33.4 miles) from
Bright.

630 Buckland Valley Rd., Buckland, VIC 3740. & 03/5756 2000. www.villagusto.com.au. 9 units.
A$245 double standard room; A$285–A$325 suite. Rates include breakfast. MC, V. No children 9 and
under. Amenities: Restaurant (Wed–Sun nights only). In room: A/C, TV, minibar.

VICTORIA

The Murray River


THE HIGH COUNTRY


Victoria’s High Country consists of the hills and mountains of the Great Dividing
Range, which runs from Queensland, through New South Wales, to just before Ballarat,
where it drops away and reappears in the mountains of the Grampians, in the
western part of Victoria. The range separates inland Australia from the greener coastal
belt. The main attractions of the High Country are its natural features, which include
moorland and mountainous alpine scenery. It’s also popular for outdoor activities,
including hiking, canoeing, white-water rafting, mountain-bike riding, and rock climbing.
The High Country is also the home of the Victorian ski fields, based around
Mount Buller, Mount Stirling, Falls Creek, Mount Buffalo, and Mount Hotham. If
you plan to go walking here, make sure you have plenty of water and sunscreen, as well
as a tent and a good-quality sleeping bag. As in any alpine region, temperatures can
plummet dramatically. In summer, days can be very hot and nights very cold.

Snowy River National Park


390km (242 miles) NE of Melbourne

The Snowy River National Park, with its lovely river scenery and magnificent gorges,
protects Victoria’s largest forest wilderness areas. The Snowy River was once a torrent
worthy of Banjo Paterson’s famous poem, but since Snowy Mountain Hydro-
Electric erected a series of dams, it’s become a mere trickle of its former self.

GETTING THERE & GETTING AROUND There is no public transit in this
area. The two main access roads are the Gelantipy Road from Buchan and the
Bonang Freeway from the logging township of Orbost. MacKillop’s Road (also
known as Deddick River Rd.) runs across the park’s northern border from Bonang to
a little south of Wulgulmerang. The area around MacKillop’s Bridge, along MacKillop’s
Road, has spectacular scenery and the park’s best campgrounds, set beside
some nice swimming holes and sandy river beaches. The Barry Way leads through
the main township of Buchan, where you’ll find some of Australia’s best caves.

VISITOR INFORMATION The main place to get information on the Snowy
River National Park and Alpine National Park is the Buchan Caves Information
Centre, in the Buchan Caves complex. It’s open daily from 9am to 4pm (closed Dec
25). Or call Parks Victoria (&13 19 63 in Australia).

EXPLORING THE BUCHAN CAVES

The Buchan Caves


(& 13 19 63) are in a scenic valley that is particularly
beautiful in autumn, when all the European trees are losing their leaves. Tourists
can visit the Royal and Fairy caves (which are quite similar), with their fabulous
stalactites and stalagmites. There are several tours daily; from the end of Easter to
September they’re at 11am and 1 and 3pm, and from October to Easter they’re at
10 and 11:15am and 1, 2:15, and 3:30pm. Entry to one cave costs A$14 for adults,
A$8 for children 5 to 16, and A$39 for families of four.
To reach the caves from the Princes Highway, turn off at Nowa Nowa. (It’s well
signposted.) If you’re coming south from Jindabyne in New South Wales (see chapter
6), follow the Barry Way, which runs alongside the Snowy River.

14
VICTORIA

The High

675


The Great Alpine Road
This 308km (191-mile) drive, one of
Australia’s great touring routes, winds
through stunning landscapes and character-
filled small towns between Wangaratta
in Victoria’s northeast and
Bairnsdale, near the coast. You could
do it without stopping in about 41.2
hours, but that would be a shame. The
joy of the journey is in the stops. Break
it up with stops at Bright (p. 674) and
Omeo or anywhere else that takes your
fancy. Stay at the Art Deco Golden Age
Hotel Motel (&03/5159 1344; www.
goldenageomeo.com.au), which is a
great country pub, or for a touch of
luxury, stay at Payne’s Hut (&03/5159
7255; www.payneshut.com) in Shannon
Vale.

VICTORIA

The High Country

Alpine National Park


333km (206 miles) NE of Melbourne; 670km (415 miles) SW of Sydney

14
Victoria’s largest national park, at 646,000 hectares (1.6 million acres), the Alpine
National Park connects the High Country areas of New South Wales and the Australian
Capital Territory. The park’s scenery is spectacular, encompassing most of the
state’s highest mountains, wild rivers, impressive escarpments, forests, and high
plains. Some parts of the park have been devastated by horrific bushfires, but it is
slowly recovering. It’s green, but evidence of the fire lingers; you’ll still see swathes
of blackened tree trunks. The flora is diverse; in all, some 1,100 plant species have
been recorded within the park’s boundaries, including 12 not found anywhere else.
Walking here is particularly good in spring and summer, when a carpet of wildflowers
covers the Bogong High Plains. The best known of the numerous walking trails
is the Alpine Walking Track, which bisects the park for 400km (248 miles) from
Walhalla to the township of Tom Groggin, on the New South Wales border. There
are plenty of access roads into the park, some of which close in winter.
Horseback-riding treks are another option for seeing the area. Watson’s Mountain
Country Trail Rides (& 03/5777 3552; www.watsonstrailrides.com.au) are just
outside Mansfield and offer short rides daily year-round. Rides run for between 1 hour
and all day (A$35 to A$150 per person, depending on the length of ride and if lunch
or dinner is included). McCormack’s Mountain Valley Trail Rides (&03/5775
2886) offers a day ride to Craig’s Hut, the set for the movie The Man from Snowy
River, for A$180 per person including lunch; an extension of this ride over 2 days, with
camping in the lovely King Valley, costs around A$400. Longer rides are also available,
generally including camping, food, and just about everything else, though you should
check whether you’ll need a sleeping bag. It’s a little out of the way, but worth the
detour, to go riding with Packer High Country Horse Riding (&03/5159 7241;
www.horsetreks.com), whose trail rides start near Anglers Rest. Other horseback-riding
operators include Falls Creek Trail Rides (& 0419/244 773 mobile phone),
Bogong Horseback Adventures (& 03/5754 4849; www.bogonghorse.com.au),
and Lovick Country Adventure (&03/5777 5715).
Angling Expeditions (&03/5754 1466 or 0409/241 762 mobile phone; www.
anglingvic.com.au) is the best option for fly-fishing for trout in the alpine area during
spring, summer, and fall. Trips last from 3 hours to all day and are suitable for everyone
from beginners to experts. Overnight trips are also available.


Walhalla: The Valley of the Gods
Tucked in a lush valley in the Victorian
Alps, the village of Walhalla is
home to only 11 people. A century ago,
it was one of the world’s richest goldmining
towns, and what remains of it is
faithfully preserved, but without a suggestion
of theme-park fakery. The gold
ran out in 1914 and Walhalla was simply
abandoned; today it has the fabulous
Star Hotel (&03/5165 6262; fax 03/
5165 6261; www.starhotel.com.au),
rebuilt in 1999 just after electricity was
connected to the town, and a surprising
number of things to do. You can take
an interesting guided tour of the old
gold mine, ride a steam train through
lovely bushland, explore the historic
cemetery, potter in the small shops and
museums, or take a walk along some
of the many tracks. Star Hotel owner
Michael Leaney will point you in all the
right directions. Or you can just hole up
in his comfortable, stylish hotel for the
weekend. Walhalla is at the end of the
Australian Alps Walking Track (which
runs 650km/403 miles from Canberra),
but the best option for visitors is the
2-day guided 40km (25-mile) walk
developed last year by the Star Hotel
and nearby Mt. Baw Baw Alpine Resort
(www.greatwalhallaalpinetrail.com).
Walhalla is also a good stopover point
to break the Sydney-Melbourne coastal
drive. It is about 180km (112 miles) from
Melbourne and is a popular day trip
and weekend destination. Walhalla’s
Star Hotel has 12 air-conditioned guest
rooms, all of a good size, some with
verandas overlooking the street. There
is also a restaurant and bar with wood
fires for those chilly nights, a cozy
guest lounge with tea- and coffeemaking
facilities, a small library (with
books and CDs), and a guest computer.
Next door, the GreyHorse Cafe sells
snacks and drinks. Rates are A$219
double, including breakfast. No children
under 12.

14
VICTORIA

The High

GETTING THERE Routes from Melbourne include the Great Alpine Road
(B500), the Kiewa Valley Highway (C531), and the Lincoln Road from Heyfield.
The Bluff is accessible from Mansfield along the Maroondah Highway.

Hitting the Slopes: The High
Country Ski Resorts

Most of Victoria’s ski areas are in, or on the edge of, the Alpine National Park (see
above). Victoria’s main snowfields are Mount Buller, Mount Hotham, and Falls
Creek, all of which have a wide range of on-mountain accommodations. Closer to
Melbourne, Mount Baw Baw offers gentle slopes for beginners, while Lake
Mountain and Mount Stirling are for cross-country skiing. The ski season in the
Victorian High Country is June through October, with July and August the most
popular months.

MOUNT HOTHAM

373km (231 miles) NE of Melbourne

Hotham Snow Resort (1,750m/5,740 ft.) is the only resort in Australia with its own
airport and summit-top village. Just 10km (61.4 miles) from the ski slopes of Mount
Hotham lies the alpine hamlet of Dinner Plain. There are 14 lifts (including those
at Dinner Plain) servicing 320 hectares (791 acres) of terrain ranging from beginner

677


to advanced. A shuttle bus service runs between Dinner Plain and Hotham Village.
Ski lift tickets are available from Hotham Skiing Company (& 1800/468 426
in Australia, or 03/5759 4444; www.hotham.com.au). Full-day lift tickets cost
A$102 for adults and A$51 for children ages 6 to 14, or A$166 adults and A$95
children with gear hire. The resort also offers some good cross-country skiing,
including a route across the Bogong High Plains to Falls Creek. Resort entry costs
A$35 per car for a day, payable at the entry gates or at the Mount Hotham Alpine
Resort Management office (see “Visitor Information,” below). If you are traveling by
bus the entry fee is A$12 adults, half price for kids.

GETTING THERE From Melbourne, take the Hume Highway via Harrietville,
or the Princes Highway via Omeo. The trip takes around 51. hours. (The Hume

2

Hwy. is slightly quicker.) Qantaslink (& 13 13 13 in Australia) flies to Mount
Hotham Airport from Sydney during the snow season.
Snowball Express (& 1300/656 546; www.snowballexpress.com.au) runs
buses to Hotham daily from mid-June to mid-September. They depart Melbourne’s

14
Southern Cross Station on Spencer Street at 9am. The trip takes 6 hours and costs
A$105 one-way or A$160 return for adults, and A$72 one-way and A$105 return for
children under 15, or A$425 return for a family of four. There are also coaches from
Bright to Hotham. Bookings are essential.

VISITOR INFORMATION Mount Hotham Alpine Resort Management,
Great Alpine Road, Mount Hotham (&03/5759 3550), is as close as you’ll come
to an information office. It has plenty of brochures. It’s open daily from 8am to 5pm
during ski season, and Monday through Friday from 9am to 5pm at other times. The
general Mount Hotham website is www.mthotham.com.au.

WHERE TO STAY Hotham Holidays (&1800/468 426 in Australia; www.
hotham.com.au) has more than 180 properties for you to choose from, ranging
from motel-style rooms to luxury chalets. They can book rooms and advise you on
special deals, including flights. Another option is the Mount Hotham Accommodation
Service (& 1800/032 061 in Australia, or 03/5759 3636; www.
mthothamaccommodation.com.au). During the ski season, most places will want
you to book for a week. Prices are significantly lower outside the ski season.

FALLS CREEK


375km (233 miles) NE of Melbourne

One of Victoria’s best ski resorts, Falls Creek is on the edge of the Bogong High
Plains overlooking the Kiewa Valley. This compact alpine village is the only one in
Australia where you can ski from your lodge to the lifts and back again from the ski
slopes. The nightlife is also very good in the ski season, with plenty of party options
as well as a range of walk-in lodge restaurants.

The ski slopes are in two parts, the Village Bowl and Sun Valley, with 17 lifts
covering more than 90 trails. There are plenty of intermediate and advanced runs,
as well as a sprinkling for beginners. You’ll also find some of Australia’s best crosscountry
skiing; Australia’s major cross-country skiing event, the Kangaroo Hoppet,
takes place here on the last Saturday in August every year. Entry to the resort costs
A$32 per car per day. If you are arriving by bus, the fee is A$11 per adult and A$5.25
per child, per day. Full-day lift tickets cost A$102 for adults, A$69 for teens 15 to
18, and A$41 for children 6 to 14. For a combined lift and ski-rental ticket, the cost

VICTORIA

The High Country


is A$162 per adult, A$147 per teen, and A$96 per child. Call Falls Creek Ski Lifts
(&03/5758 1000) for details.

GETTING THERE Falls Creek Coach Service (& 03/5754 4024; www.
fallscreekcoachservice.com.au) runs buses to the ski resort from Melbourne every
day during the ski season (mid-June to late Sept), departing Melbourne at 9am and
arriving at Falls Creek at 3pm. The round-trip fare is A$161 for adults and A$121
for school-age children and includes the resort entrance fee. The company also runs
shuttle buses to and from Albury (A$90 round-trip for adults and A$76 for kids), just
over the border in New South Wales and accessible by train or air from Sydney, and
between Mount Beauty and Falls Creek. Reservations are essential.

If you’re driving from Melbourne, take the Hume Highway to Wangaratta, and
then through Myrtleford and Mount Beauty to Falls Creek. The trip takes around
41.2 hours. From Sydney, take the Hume Highway to Albury-Wodonga and follow the
signs to Mount Beauty and the snowfields (about 8 hr.). If you’re driving yourself to
Falls Creek, you are legally obliged to carry a pair of snow chains. These can be hired
for a small charge from either of Mount Beauty’s service stations and several ski
rental stores. There is no petrol at Falls Creek, so make sure you fill up before setting
out. If you arrive in the ski season, a resort worker will direct you to a car park and
bring you back in a little buggy to the resort entrance, where you can take a caterpillar-
tracked Oversnow taxi to your hotel. It costs A$19 one-way and A$34 roundtrip
for adults; A$13 one-way and A$23 round-trip for children 5 to 15. Or you could
attempt the short but (probably) slippery walk yourself.

VISITOR INFORMATION The Mount Beauty Visitor Information Centre,
31 Bogong High Plains Rd., Mount Beauty (& 1800/111 885 in Australia, or
03/5754 1962; www.visitalpinevictoria.com.au), has all the information you need
about activities and also an accommodations service. It is open daily 9am to 5pm
(except Good Friday and Dec 25–26). The Falls Creek Resort Management
office, Slalom Street (at Bogong High Plains Rd.), Falls Creek (&03/5758 1200;
www.fallscreek.com.au), also offers loads of information and is open daily 8am to
5pm during the ski season, weekdays 9am to 5pm other times.

Where to Stay & Dine

Falls Creek is a year-round resort with a good range of accommodations. It tends to fill
up fast during the ski season. As you might expect, room rates are much higher during
the ski season. Falls Creek Central Reservations (&1800/033 079 in Australia, or
03/5758 3733; www.fallscreek.com.au) or Falls Creek Reservations Centre (&1800/
453 525 in Australia or 03/5758 1050) can tell you what deals are available.

If you fancy a self-contained apartment or free-standing chalet, try the Frueauf
Village complex (& 1300/300 709 in Australia; www.fvfalls.com.au). These 28
properties were built in 2002. The smallest unit, basically a nice studio, costs A$528
per couple for a 2-night stay in the earliest and latest part of the ski season and
jumps to A$1,154 for 2 nights at peak times.

Summit Ridge Alpine Lodge


Summit Ridge is an AAA-rated four-and-ahalf-
star property made from local rock and timber. All rooms are quite nice, if a
little stark. Standard rooms come with a set of bunk beds and a couple of useless
little desks. Queen suites have a queen-size bed and a couch, plus beautiful mountain
views. The mezzanine suites are split-level with the bedroom upstairs; they have
king-size beds and an attached bathroom with tub. There’s a lounge and dining room
14
VICTORIA

The High

679


on the ground floor and a library on the second. If the mist holds off, there are some
fine valley views. The hosts pay a lot of attention to detail, and the homemade bread
is worth waking early for. The owner can also take you on early morning ski runs.
The most expensive rates in the ranges below apply in August.

8 Schuss St., Falls Creek, VIC 3699. &03/5758 3800. Fax 03/5758 3833. www.summitridge.com.au.
A$155–A$240 per person standard bunk room; A$330–A$520 queen double; A$370–A$580 mezzanine
suite. Children 5–14 pay 25% off adult rate. Rates include breakfast and dinner. AE, DC, MC, V.
Closed Oct to mid-June. Children 4 and under not accepted. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; babysitting;
exercise room; Jacuzzi; sauna. In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar.

THE NORTHWEST: GRAMPIANS
NATIONAL PARK

260km (161 miles) NW of Melbourne

One of Victoria’s most popular attractions, the rugged Grampians National Park

14 rises some 1,000m (3,280 ft.) from the plains, appearing from the distance like some
kind of monumental island. The park, which is an ecological meeting place of Victoria’s
western volcanic plains and the forested Great Dividing Range, contains a
third of all the wildflowers native to Victoria and most of the surviving Aboriginal
rock art in southeastern Australia. The wildlife is rich and varied, and kangaroos,
koalas, emus, gliders, and echidnas are easy to spot.
In early 2009, parts of the Grampians were ravaged by bushfires, and you will still
see some of the effects on the landscape when you visit, including the fabulous
process of nature regenerating the bush.
The main town is Halls Gap, in a valley between the southern tip of the Mount
Difficult Range and the northern tip of the Mount William Range. It’s a good place to
stock up on supplies. The Wonderland Range, with its stunning scenery, is close to
Halls Gap, too. There are plenty of short strolls, and longer bushwalks are available.
A must-do stop is the Brambuk Aboriginal Cultural Centre


(& 03/5361
4000; www.brambuk.com.au), adjacent to the National Park and Cultural Centre
(see below). It offers an excellent introduction to the area’s Aboriginal history and
seven accessible rock-art sites. The Gariwerd Dreaming Theatre there shows two
short movies depicting the creation story of the Grampians and an account of the
area’s Aboriginal and European history, geology, flora, and fauna; presentations are
hourly. Entrance to the center is free, and it’s open daily from 9am to 5pm. Guided
tours, which include rock painting sites, run on weekdays at 9:30am and cost from
A$20 adults and A$15 children for a 2-hour tour, including entry to the Gariwerd
Dreaming Theatre. Allow 2 to 3 hours.
Essentials

GETTING THERE By car, the park is accessible from the Western Highway at
Ararat, Stawell (pronounced Storl), and Horsham. Alternatively, you can reach the
southern entrance from the Glenelg Highway at Dunkeld. The western areas of the
park are off the Henty Highway (A200).

V/Line (& 13 61 96 in Victoria; www.vline.com.au) has daily train and bus
service to Halls Gap from Melbourne. (The train goes to Ballarat, and a bus continues
to Halls Gap via Ararat and Stawell.) The trip takes around 41.2 hours, and there
is a half-hour wait at Ballarat.

VICTORIA

The Northwest: Grampians National Park


GETTING AROUND Paved roads include the Grampians Tourist Road,
which cuts through the park from Dunkeld to Halls Gap; the Mount Victory
Road, from Halls Gap to Wartook; and the Roses Gap Road, which runs from
Wartook across to Dadswells Bridge on the Western Highway. Many other roads in
the park are unpaved, but most are passable with a two-wheel-drive car.

Autopia Tours (&1800/000 507 in Australia, or 03/9419 8878; www.autopia
tours.com.au) offers all-day tours of the park and surroundings from Melbourne on
Mondays, Wednesdays, and Saturdays (call for departure times and pickup points).
The tour includes a stop at Brambuk, as well as Aboriginal rock-painting sites, waterfalls,
and lookouts. There’s a bit of walking involved, so you need to be reasonably
fit, but you’re almost certain to see native wildlife. The tour includes morning tea
and National Park entry fees and costs A$120.

VISITOR INFORMATION The Bambruk National Park and Cultural
Centre (& 03/5361 4000), 2.5km (11. miles) south of Halls Gap, is open daily

2from 9am to 5pm. It has plenty of maps and brochures, and the rangers can advise
you on walking trails and camping spots. Check out www.bambruk.com.au. Other
good websites are www.visitgrampians.com.au and www.visithallsgap.com.au.

Where to Stay

Boroka Downs


Sleep in five-star luxury and then wake up to breaking
light over rolling farmland and kangaroos outside your floor-length windows. Boroka
Downs has five private contemporary Australian style self-contained residences,
about 7km (41.3 miles) from Hall’s Gap. Each has stunning views from your choice
of the circular spa, the king-size bed, or the fireside. You’ll be dazzled by the quality
of the place, from the state-of-the-art sound system to the espresso coffee machine
(fresh beans and grinder provided) and gourmet kitchen. Service here is “on
demand,” to ensure guests have their own desired level of privacy. There are lots of
extras provided, such as backpacks and binoculars for walking, and bathrobes for
lounging around. Breakfast and supper packs can be provided for A$30 to A$50
extra. It’s private, elegant, and you probably won’t want to leave. It’s not suitable for
children. Check out time is wonderfully late, at 6pm.

51 Birdswing Rd., Hall’s Gap, VIC 3381. &03/5356 6243. Fax 03/5356 6343. www.borokadowns.com.
au. 5 units. A$595 double midweek; A$645 double Sat–Sun. Rates include breakfast hamper and are
reduced the more nights you stay. Ask about packages. AE, MC, V. In room: A/C, TV/VCR/DVD, hair
dryer, free Internet, kitchen, MP3 docking station.

Royal Mail Hotel & Bluestone Cottages


You have a choice of lodgings at
this renovated historic hotel located between the Great Ocean Road and the Grampians
National Park. There are motel-style rooms with either garden or mountain
views, or eight private one- and two-bedroom bluestone cottages on a working sheep
farm at Mount Sturgeon, about 5km (3 miles) from the hotel, and these are my pick.
Built by Chinese workers in the 1870s, they are a peaceful retreat, with huge comfortably
worn brown-leather armchairs, an open fireplace, a CD player, and patchwork
quilts on the beds. Equally appealing are the rustic table and chairs outside,
where you can watch the changing light on Mount Sturgeon. The water tank against
the back wall cunningly conceals your bathroom. There’s a kitchen with a microwave
and a gas barbecue outside. A continental breakfast for your first morning is
included and can be picked up when you check in (at the Royal Mail). There’s no
television, no phone, and no mobile phone reception.
14
VICTORIA

The Northwest: Grampians

681


98 Parker St., Dunkeld, VIC 3294. &03/5577 2241. Fax 03/5577 2577. www.royalmail.com.au. 33 units.
A$160–A$240 double motel room with breakfast; A$310–A$350 double 1-bedroom apt including
breakfast; A$290–A$320 2-bedroom apt (sleeps 4) including breakfast; A$200–A$320 bluestone cottages.
Extra person A$45. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; pool; room service (hotel only).
In room: A/C, TV (except cottages), CD player, kitchen (cottages and apts only).

GIPPSLAND & WILSONS
PROMONTORY


200km (124 miles) SE of Melbourne

Victoria’s major touring routes will take you through Gippsland, taking in some wonderful
coastal and alpine scenery. The Great Alpine Road tours through forests and
national parks that are popular destinations for skiing in winter and bushwalking,
fishing, and cycling in the warmer months. The Sydney to Melbourne Coastal Drive
is a great way to tour the coastline and countryside. This drive will take you to—or

14 near enough to divert for a visit—some of Victoria’s best-loved holiday spots, including
several of the state’s most beautiful national parks. It’s worth the time to explore
these places, even briefly.
Beyond Phillip Island (see “Side Trips from Melbourne,” p. 647), the Bass Coast
Highway follows the coast to the towns of Wonthaggi and Inverloch. Inverloch has
inviting sandy beaches (patrolled in summer), as well as plenty of small galleries, markets,
and antiques stores. The road to Wilson’s Promontory will take you through many
small villages; one of the cutest is Fish Creek, where everything “fishy” will greet you,
from the giant mullet atop the Fishy Pub (Promontory Gate Hotel) to the fish-shaped
seats and the roof of the local church. Take time to stop off at the Celia Rosser Gallery
(&03/5683 2628; www.celiarossergallery.com.au), home to one of Australia’s foremost
botanical artists famed for her banksia drawings, which are even owned by the Queen.
Wilsons Promontory is affectionately known as “the Prom” by Victorians who
have flocked here for generations for holidays. The southernmost point of the Australian
mainland, the Prom is famous for abundant flora and fauna, wild beaches,
rugged landscapes, and coastal beauty. The 50,000-hectare (123,000-acre) national
park has a 30km (19-mile) coastline and features a host of winding walking tracks
and plenty to do. The park contains the largest coastal wilderness area in Victoria.
From the entrance at Yanakie, it is 30km (19 miles) to the Tidal River settlement,
which has car parking, camping, caravan sites and cabins to rent (bookings essential),
a cafe, and a lovely sandy beach at Norman Bay. Other major attractions are
Squeaky Beach (yes, it does), and Mount Oberon for one of Victoria’s best views. A
guide to good walks—short and long—is Discovering the Prom, available from the
park’s information center at Tidal River. Wilsons Promontory is a 3-hour drive from
Melbourne on the South Gippsland Highway via Meeniyan or Foster.
Other highlights along the coast include Cape Conran Coastal Park, Point Hicks,
and Croajingolong National Park. Cape Conran Coastal Park is located near
Marlo, 396km (246 miles) from Melbourne. The park covers 11,700 hectares
(29,000 acres) and has 60km (38 miles) of beach facing south over Bass Strait. The
park also has banksia woodlands brimming with birdlife.
One of Australia’s most spectacular parks, Croajingolong is so extraordinary that
UNESCO made it a World Biosphere Reserve. From white sandy beaches to rocky

VICTORIA

Gippsland & Wilsons Promontory


coastal headlands and granite peaks, to rambling heaths, rainforests, and towering
eucalypt forests, it supports more than 1,000 native plant species and 300 bird species.
If that all sounds too fragile, don’t worry—it is a great spot for hiking, surfing,
swimming, diving, snorkelling and sea kayaking, and touring by four-wheel drive or
mountain bike. Take the short walk to West Beach via Sledge Track or try the longer
Dunes Walk, starting from Thurra Campground.

Within Croajingolong National Park, you will find mainland Australia’s tallest
lighthouse, Point Hicks Light Station. Unless you are staying at the lighthouse
cottages, you will have to walk the 2km (1.2 miles) or so from the padlocked entry
gate—but it’s worth the hike! Built in 1890, the lighthouse marks Captain Cook’s
first sighting of Australia’s east coast in 1770. Point Hicks was named for Lieutenant
Zachary Hicks, who first sighted the headland from aboard Endeavour. Wander out
to the monument to Cook and Hicks on the headland beyond the light station and
then tackle the 162 steps of the spiral staircase to the top of the lighthouse—easier
than it sounds—for great views of the coastline. Lighthouse tours cost A$20 per
cottage or A$7 adults and A$4 children and run at 1pm Friday to Sunday and daily
during Easter and Christmas school holidays (except Christmas Day and New Year’s
Day). Point Hicks lighthouse cottages (& 03/5158 4268 [10am–3pm weekdays
only]; www.pointhicks.com.au) cost A$330 per night and sleep up to six.

Back on the Princes, the road leads to Mallacoota, an unspoiled seaside village
with the distinction of recording Victoria’s warmest winter temperatures.

Essentials

GETTING THERE The best way to get to Gippsland from Melbourne is by car.
Take the Monash Freeway southeast and then take the M1 (Princes Freeway) through
many of central Gippsland’s cities and townships, including Warragul, Traralgon, and
Sale, and on to Bairnsdale, Lakes Entrance, Orbost, and Cann River. An alternate
route is the South Gippsland Highway, which runs closer to the coast through Korumburra,
Leongatha, and Foster before joining the Princes Highway at Sale.

V/Line (& 13 61 96 in Victoria; www.vline.com.au) has daily train service to
Bairnsdale from Melbourne. There is a connection bus service to Lakes Entrance. A
round-trip adult fare to Bairnsdale costs A$52.

VISITOR INFORMATION The Bairnsdale Visitor Information Centre
(&1800/637 060 in Australia or 03/5151 3444; www.discovereastgippsland.com.
au) is at 240 Main St., Bairnsdale. The Lakes Entrance Visitor Information Centre
(& 1800/637 060 in Australia or 03/5155 1966; www.discovereastgippsland.
com.au) is on the corner of Marine Parade and Princes Highway. Prom Country
Visitor Information Centre (& 1800/630 704 in Australia or 03/5655 2233;
www.visitpromcountry.com.au) is on the South Gippsland Highway at Korumburra.
The Wonthaggi Visitor Information Centre (&1300/854 334 in Australia, or
03/5671 2444; www.visitbasscoast.com) is at 37 Watt St., Wonthaggi. All are open
9am to 5pm daily (except Christmas Day).

Where to Stay & Dine

Karbeethong Lodge


This charming, historic guesthouse has views over
Mallacoota Inlet and Croajingolong National Park, especially lovely from the wide
verandah at sunset. Built in 1903, the lodge is comfortable, unpretentious, and stylish.
14
VICTORIA

Gippsland Promontory

683


Some rooms open out onto the front verandah, the lawns, and the rose gardens running
down to the water’s edge. Others have bush views or open onto an internal
courtyard. All are individually decorated in a relaxed seaside or country style, and
guests share the lodge’s large well-equipped kitchen and comfortable living and dining
rooms. The lodge is self-catering, with a big communal table and barbecues outside.

16 Schnapper Point Dr., Mallacoota, VIC 3892. &03/5158 0411. Fax 03/5158 0081. www.karbeethong
lodge.com.au. 11 units. A$75–A$220 double. Rates include breakfast. Ask about packages. MC, V.
In room: A/C, hair dryer.

RACV Inverloch Resort


All budgets will find somewhere to stay here, from
those seeking luxury style to caravanners. Owned and operated by Victoria’s state
motoring association, the Royal Automobile Club of Victoria, this resort opened in
November 2007. Perched on 32 hectares (79 acres) on a hillside above the rugged
sweep of the Bass Coast, it has 26 rooms in the main lodge with ocean views and
private decks, 20 private villas, and 32 caravan sites (12 with private en-suite bathrooms).
Some villas have no sea view but are spacious and light-filled, smart and
14
functional, if a bit bland. Top of the range are the eight premium ocean-view rooms
with 180-degree uninterrupted views of the coastline. The resort is 5km (3 miles)
from Inverloch. Midweek, you’ll find it filled with mostly retired couples or smallgroup
conference delegates, but at weekends and on holidays, families and caravanners
move in. Friendly staff, log fires in the bar, and electric blankets on the beds for
those chilly Victorian winter nights give a level of warmth to staying here.

70 Cape Paterson-Inverloch Rd., Inverloch, VIC 3996. &03/5674 0000. Fax 03/5571 1000. www.racv.
com.au. 46 units, 32 caravan sites. A$210–A$300 ocean-view rooms; A$255–A$415 2-bedroom villas
(sleep 4); A$295–A$440 double 3-bedroom villas (sleep 5); A$40–A$60 double caravan sites ($10
extra for en-suite bathroom). Lower rates apply for RACV members. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar;
exercise room; golf course nearby; Jacuzzi; heated indoor pool; sauna; 2 outdoor lit tennis courts.
In room: A/C, TV, CD player, hair dryer, kitchen, Wi-Fi (A$10 for 1 hr.).

Wilderness Retreats


Parks Victoria offers a camping experience with all
creature comforts—this is really “glamping.” There are four Wilderness Retreats at
Tidal River in Wilsons Promontory National Park and five at Cape Conran National
Park. In each retreat, you stay in large permanent tents with hardwood floors, raised
from the ground and furnished with local handmade mahogany furniture—a queensized
bed, two roll-out single beds, a table, and chairs. They are comfortable, weatherproof,
and have a lockable canvas door. At Wilsons Prom, the tents have their own
built-in (and plumbed) bathrooms; at Cape Conran you are a short walk from the
showers and toilets. Communal kitchens are well equipped, but you need to take all
food and supplies with you. The locations are superb. If you want to get back to
nature in style, this is the way to go. There are also Wilderness Retreats at Buchan
Caves (see p. 675).
32nd Ave., Tidal River, VIC 3960, or Cape Conran Road (19km/12 miles E of Marlo). &13 19 63. www.
parkweb.vic.gov.au or www.conran.net.au. 9 units. A$250 double at Wilsons Prom, extra person A$20;
A$150 double at Cape Conran and Buchan Caves, extra person A$18. Minimum 2-night stay. Bookings
essential. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Kitchen. In room: Fridge.

VICTORIA

Gippsland & Wilsons Promontory


CANBERRA


by Lee Atkinson


L
L
overs of symmetry, symbolism, and architecture will
love Canberra (pronounced Can-bra, with the accent
on the “Can,” not Can-behr-a). Unlike most other

Australian cities that grew up organically around pioneer

settlements, there is nothing haphazard about the nation’s

capital. Not only is it Australia’s only completely planned

city, even its location, rising unexpectedly from the sur


rounding high grass plains, shimmering and heat-parched

in summer and often dusted with snow in winter, was by

careful design. It is a city surrounded by bush and farmland,

earning it the nickname the “Bush Capital,” although that

may hint more at its relative remoteness (every other major

city in the country is on the coast) than at the wild and

rugged peaks of the snowy mountain wilderness on its

doorstep.

15


Prior to Federation in 1901, Canberra was just a large sheep station
called Canberry. Post-Federation debates on possible locations for the
new seat of government raged for a number of years—both Sydney and
Melbourne believed they were the natural seat of power—so in a magnificent
compromise, the new Commonwealth Parliament decided to put
an end to the bitter rivalry in 1908 by simply choosing a point between
the two cities, declaring the sheep station they found there to be the new
national capital. Thankfully, they decided to call it Canberra (from the
local Aboriginal word for “meeting place”) rather than “Sydmelperadbrisho”
or the equally silly “Meladneyperbane,” both dreadful amalgamations
of the names of each of the other capital cities.

In 1911, an international competition to design the new city was held.
More than 130 entries were received from around the world, and the
winning entry was submitted by Chicago architect Walter Burley Griffin
and his partner, Marion Mahony Griffin, a design based on a series of
geometrically precise circles and axes. The Australian Capital Territory
(ACT) was declared on January 1, 1911. It became a self-governing territory
in 1989.


Fast-forward almost 100 years and the city remains true to the Griffin’s original
“garden city” vision, with streets lined with large trees and buildings set in expanses of
grassed parkland. The streets radiate out in a wheel-and-spoke design from Capital
Hill, rather than following the grid design of most other cities. Trouble is, unless you
live there, the endless circular roads can be confusing, and almost every Australian you
meet that has been to Canberra will tell you how easy it is to get lost there.

Most of the 340,000 people who live here are civil servants of some type. And
most visitors come simply to see Canberra’s amazing range of museums, including
the National Museum of Australia, the Questacon science museum, and the
National Gallery of Australia. But dig a little deeper and you’ll find many more
aspects to Canberra, such as a thriving festival and arts scene and an emerging food
and wine culture, with 30 of the country’s best cool-climate wineries less than 30
minutes drive from the center of the city.

ORIENTATION

Getting There

BY PLANE Qantas (& 13 13 13 in Australia; www.qantas.com.au) runs frequent
daily service to Canberra from all state capitals. Virgin Blue (&13 67 89 in
Australia; www.virginblue.com.au) offers discount daily flights to Canberra from Mel


15 bourne, Brisbane, the Gold Coast, Adelaide, Hobart, Townsville, and Sydney. Tiger
Airways (&03/9335 3033; www.tigerairways.com) also has daily flights from Melbourne
and Adelaide and Brindabella Airlines (&1300/668 824; www.brindabella
airlines.com.au) has weekday flights from the regional centers of Newcastle and
Albury. The Canberra Airport is about 10 minutes from the city center. It has carrental
desks, a currency exchange, a bar, a bistro, and a mailbox for cards and letters
(but no post office). The newsdealer sells stamps. There are no lockers or showers.
The Airliner Bus (&02/6299 3722; www.airliner.com.au) operates a 20-minute
shuttle between the central business district and the airport Monday to Friday,
leaving every half-hour on weekdays and hourly on weekends. The one-way fare is
A$9 and a round-trip costs A$15.

BY TRAIN Countrylink (&13 22 32 in Australia; www.countrylink.info) runs
two Canberra Xplorer trains daily between Sydney and Canberra. The 41.4-hour trip
costs around A$80 in first class and A$57 in economy during peak season (school
and public holidays), but seasonal discounts apply so check when booking; children
pay half-price, and a round-trip costs double. Many people book Countrylink
transport-hotel packages (call Countrylink Holidays, & 13 28 29), which can
save you quite a bit. Countrylink has an office at Central Railway station in Sydney.

From Melbourne, the Canberra Link, run by V/Line (&13 61 96 in Australia;
www.vlinepassenger.com.au), involves a 31.2-hour train trip and a 4-hour bus trip. It
costs A$45 for adults and A$35 for children and students.

Canberra Railway Station (& 02/6239 6707) is on Wentworth Avenue,
Kingston, about 5km (3 miles) southeast of the city center. Coaches connect the
railway station to the center.

BY BUS Greyhound (&1300/473 946 in Australia; www.greyhound.com.au)
does nine runs a day from Sydney to Canberra; the trip takes around 4 hours. Tickets
cost around A$37 for adults, A$34 for students with an ISAC (International

CANBERRA

Orientation


Canberra


Northbourne
Childers St.
Corander
rr
k St.
Euree St.
Wentworth
Giles St.
Lonsdale St.
Lake Burley
Griffin
AUSTRALIAN
AUSTRALIANAUSTRALIAN
NATIONAL
NATIONALNATIONAL
BOTANIC
BOTANICBOTANIC
GARDENS
GARDENSGARDENS
GREVILLEA
GREVILLEAGREVILLEA
PARK
PARKPARK
TELOPEA PARK
TELOPEA PARKTELOPEA PARK
COMMONWEALTH
COMMONWEALTHCOMMONWEALTH
PARK
PARKPARK
KINGS
KINGSKINGS
PARK
PARKPARK
STIRLING PARK
STIRLING PARKSTIRLING PARK
COLLINS
COLLINSCOLLINS
PARK
PARKPARK
MANUKA
MANUKAMANUKA
PARK
PARKPARK
Black
BlackBlack
Mountain
MountainMountain
Commonwealth
Ave. Bridge
Australian National
Australian NationalAustralian National
University
UniversityUniversity
Mount Ainslie
Mount AinslieMount AinslieMount Ainslie
United States
United StatesUnited States
Embassy
EmbassyEmbassy
Canberra
CanberraCanberra
Railway
RailwayRailway
Station
StationStation
General Post
General PostGeneral Post
Office
OfficeOffice
Kings Ave.
Bridge
Northbourne
Avenue
AvenueAvenue
London
LondonLondon
Cooyong St.
Cooyong St.Cooyong St.Cooyong St.
Alinga
AlingaAlinga
St.
St.St.
Akuna St.
Akuna St.
Petrie St.
Petrie St.
Ballumbir St.
Ballumbir St.Ballumbir St.
Binara
BinaraBinara
St.
St.St.
Canberra
CanberraCanberra
Ave.
Ave.Ave.
King
KingKing
TerraceGeorge
GeorgeGeorgeTerraceTerrace
Black Mountain Dr.
Black Mountain Dr.Black Mountain Dr.
Circuit
CircuitCircuit
Avenue
Kings
KingsKingsKings
Avenue
AvenueAvenue
Anzac Parade
Anzac ParadeAnzac Parade
Limestone Ave.
Limestone Ave.Limestone Ave.
Vernon
VernonVernon
Circle
CircleCircle
Commonwealth Avenue
Commonwealth Avenue
N
NN
a
aa
t
tt
i
ii
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oo
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nn
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ll
C
CC
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ii
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Parkes
ParkesParkes
Brisbane Ave.
Brisbane Ave.Brisbane Ave.
Way
WayWay
Constitution
ConstitutionConstitution
Ave.
Ave.Ave.
ChildersSt.
CoranderrkSt.
EureeSt.
Wentworth
GilesSt.
S
SS
t
tt
a
aa
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tt
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CC
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rr
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CC
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Ainslie Ave.
Ainslie Ave.Ainslie Ave.
D
DD
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oo
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mm
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nn
C
CC
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Adelaide Ave.
Adelaide Ave.Adelaide Ave.
E
EE
m
mm
p
pp
i
ii
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rr
e
ee
C
CC
i
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Melbourne
MelbourneMelbourne
Ave.
Ave.Ave.
Lonsdale St.
Lonsdale St.Lonsdale St.
GRIFFITH
GRIFFITHGRIFFITH
PARKES
PARKES
ACTON
ACTONACTON
CIVIC
CIVICCIVIC
CAPITAL HILL
CAPITAL HILLCAPITAL HILL
FORREST
FORRESTFORREST
REID
REIDREID
BRADDON
BRADDONBRADDON
KINGSTON
KINGSTONKINGSTON
RUSSELL
RUSSELLRUSSELL
DEAKIN
DEAKINDEAKINDEAKIN
8
7
23
9
34
12
10
3
30
29
21
33
5
17
18
16
21
14
22
24
19
13
28
26
25
20
26
1
6
4
11
15
27
31
32
35
36
Information
Post Office
N
1/4 mi0
0 1/4 km
A U S T R A L I AAUSTRALIA
AUSTRALIAAUSTRALIA
Canberra
CanberraCanberraCanberra
Perth
PerthPerthPerth
Brisbane
BrisbaneBrisbaneBrisbane
Darwin
DarwinDarwinDarwin
Sydney
SydneySydneySydney
Melbourne
MelbourneMelbourneMelbourne
ATTRACTIONS
Australian Institute of Sport 17
Australian National
Botanic Gardens 2
Australian War Memorial 13
Black Mountain Tower 1
Canberra Glassworks 31
Canberra Museum and Gallery 11
Casino Canberra 14
Museum of Democracy 26
National Archives of Australia 27
National Capital Exhibition 19
National Film and Sound Archive 16
National Gallery of Australia 25
National Library of Australia 20
National Museum of Australia 18
(Attractions cont.)
National Portrait Gallery 24
Old Bus Depot Markets 32
Parliament House 28
Questacon–The National Science
and Technology Centre 22
Royal Australian Mint 36
ACCOMMODATIONS
The Brassey of Canberra 30
Crowne Plaza Canberra 12
Diamant Hotel 15
Hotel Realm 29
Hyatt Hotel Canberra 21
Medina Executive James Court 5
Quality Suites Clifton on Northbourne 3
(Accommodations cont.)
Victor Lodge 33
Waldorf Apartment
Hotel 10
DINING
Abell’s Kopi Tiam 35
Alto 1
Chairman and Yip 9
Cream Cafe 6
Debacle 4
The Ginger Room 26
Milk and Honey 8
Portia's Place 34
Sammy’s Kitchen 7
Water's Edge 23

15
CANBERRA

Orientation

687


Student Activity Card), and A$32 for children 3 to 14, although you can often pick
up fares for as low as A$20 online.

From Melbourne, tickets to Canberra cost A$75 for adults, A$66 for students,

and A$65 for children, although once again, check for specials online before you

book.

Murrays Australia (&13 22 51 in Australia; www.murrays.com.au) runs from
Sydney to Canberra six times a day for A$36 for adults and A$30 for students and
children. Book over the Internet for discounts of up to half price. Sydney-based
sightseeing company Australian Pacific Touring (&1300/655 965 in Australia;
www.aptouring.com.au) offers day trips to Canberra.

Interstate buses arrive at Jolimont Tourist Centre, at the corner of Northbourne
Avenue and Alinga Street, Canberra City.

BY CAR The ACT is surrounded by New South Wales. Sydney is 280km (174
miles) northeast, and Melbourne is 651km (404 miles) southwest of Canberra.
From Sydney, you can use an extension to the M5 motorway that links with the
Eastern Distributor highway near Sydney Airport. Veer left before you reach the
airport, follow signs heading toward Canberra, and veer left onto the M5. The drive
takes between 3 and 31.2 hours. From Melbourne, take the Hume Highway to Yass
and switch to the Barton Highway; the trip will take about 8 hours.

Visitor Information

15

The Canberra Visitors’ Centre, 330 Northbourne Ave., Dickson (& 1300/554
114), dispenses information and books accommodations. The office is open Monday
through Friday from 9am to 5pm, and Saturday and Sunday from 9am to 4pm. The
official government website, www.visitcanberra.com.au, is worth checking out.

SPECIAL EVENTS A host of free events—from concerts to competitions—is
part of the annual Canberra National Multicultural Festival held over 10 days
each February. The city also celebrates its founding with more free events on Canberra
Day, which is a local public holiday, on the second Monday in March. There
are many other major events scattered throughout the year, the biggest of which is
the annual free spring flower show Floriade, when Commonwealth Park erupts in
a blaze of color with more than 1.5 million bulbs and annuals in bloom. The Summernats
street machine car festival in January, the Easter National Folk Festival,
and the Australian Science Festival in August also draw big crowds. Check dates
at www.visitcanberra.com.au.

City Layout

Canberra’s focal point is the pondlike Lake Burley Griffin, an artificial lake with
the Captain Cook Memorial Jet (a spire of water that reaches 147m/482 ft. into
the air) at its center. Most of the country’s more culturally and politically significant
buildings—Australia’s most expensive building, Parliament House, the much
smaller (in comparison) Old Parliament House, the National Archives, the
National Library, the National Gallery and National Portrait Gallery, the
High Court of Australia, and Questacon, the National Science and Technology
Centre—are clustered around it, making it easy for visitors to go from one attraction

CANBERRA

Orientation


to the next. Officially, the area is called Parkes (after Sir Henry Parkes, the “father
of Federation”), but it is more commonly referred to as the Parliamentary Triangle,
which is bounded by Commonwealth, Kings, and Constitution avenues. Capital Hill
is at the apex of the triangle, while City Hall, in the city center, and the headquarters
of the Australian Defense Force, in the suburb of Russell, are at the other two
points.

Most of the embassies and consulates are in the suburb of Yarralumla, east of
Capital Hill; Canberra’s main shopping district, Civic, is on the other side of the
lake, centered on Northbourne Avenue, one of the city’s main thoroughfares. Compared
to other capital cities, the Central Business District (CBD) there is quite
small. The inner suburbs of Manuka and Kingston are the places to go for boutique
shopping and the best restaurants and cafes. On the outskirts of the city you’ll
find the National Zoo and Aquarium, and just a few minutes drive away is Black
Mountain, crowned with its 195m-high (640-ft.) communications tower with a
viewing platform, revolving restaurant, and exhibition hall.

Getting Around

BY CAR Avis (&13 63 33), Budget (&1300/362 848), Europcar (&1300/131
390), Hertz (& 13 30 39), and Thrifty (& 1300/367 227) all have desks at the
airport.

If you rent your own wheels, you might follow one or more of the six tourist drives
marked with signs; pick up details from the Canberra Visitors’ Centre.

BY TAXI Canberra has three taxi companies that can be accessed by phone bookings
or from designated ranks (stands) that are clearly signposted throughout the
city. For taxi bookings call Canberra Cabs (&13 22 27), Cabxpress (&02/6260
6011), or Silver Service (& 13 31 00), which has seven-seater vans as well as
sedans. An average taxi fare to the city center is around A$25.

BY BUS ACTION (&13 17 10 in Australia, or 02/6207 7611; www.action.act.gov.
au) coordinates Canberra’s bus system. The central bus terminal is on Alinga Street,
in Civic. Single tickets cost A$3.80 for adults and A$1.90 for children 5 to 15. Daily
tickets cost A$7.40 for adults and A$3.70 for kids, and weekly tickets cost A$27 for
adults and A$14 for kids. Purchase single tickets on the bus and daily and weekly
tickets from most newsdealers and ACTION interchanges (transfer points).

For schedules, check its website, or you can pick up bus route maps at bus interchanges,
newsdealers, and the Canberra Visitors’ Centre.

Canberra Day Tours (& 0418/455 099; www.canberradaytours.com.au)
offers a hop-on and hop-off day tour by bus, including stops at Old Parliament
House, the Australian War Memorial, Parliament House, the Embassy region, Telstra
Tower, and Lake Burley Griffin. It costs A$35 for adults and A$15 for kids under

16. The first bus leaves at 9:30am from the Canberra Visitors’ Centre.
BY BICYCLE Canberra is unique in Australia for its extensive system of cycle
tracks—some 120km (74 miles) of them—which makes sightseeing on two wheels
a pleasure. See “Outdoor Pursuits,” later in this chapter, for details on bike rental.

15
CANBERRA

Orientation

689


CANBERRA


American Express
The office at 185 City Walk
(at the corner of Petrie
Plaza, inside the Westpac
Bank), Civic, is open during
normal business hours
(see below). In an emergency,
dial & 1300/132
639 in Australia.

Business Hours Banks
are generally open Monday
through Thursday from
9:30am to 4pm and Friday
from 9:30am to 5pm.
Stores and offices are
open Monday through Friday
from 9am to 5:30pm.
Many shops, particularly in

15
the large malls, are open
on weekends and until
9pm Fridays.

Climate The best time
to visit Canberra is in
spring (Sept–Nov) or
autumn (Mar–May). Summers
are hot and winters
are cool and crisp.

Currency Exchange
Cash traveler’s checks
at banks; at American
Express (see above); or at
Travelex, in the Harvey
World Travel office at the
Petrie Plaza entrance of
the Canberra Centre
(& 02/6247 9984), open
Monday through Friday
from 9am to 5pm and Saturday
from 9am to 1pm.

Doctors Canberra after
hours locum medical service
(CALMS; & 1300/422
567, appointment necessary)
is in Building 2 at
the Canberra Hospital
(enter through the

CANBERRA

Fast Facts: Canberra

Emergency Department
entrance). The Travellers’
Medical & Vaccination
Centre, Level 5, 8–10
Hobart Place (at the corner
of Marcus Clarke St.),
Civic (& 02/6222 2300),
offers vaccinations and
travel medicines. Standard
20-minute consultations
cost A$80 and up.

Embassies &
Consulates The British
High Commission (consular
section) is on Commonwealth
Avenue, Yarralumla
(& 02/6270 6666); the
Canadian High Commission
is also on Commonwealth
Avenue, Yarralumla
(& 02/6270 4000); the

U.S. Embassy is at Moonah
Place, Yarralumla (& 02/
6214 5600); and the New
Zealand High Commission
is at Commonwealth Avenue,
Yarralumla (& 02/
6270 4211).

Emergencies Call
& 000 for an ambulance,
the police, or the fire
department.

Eyeglasses For repairs,
glasses, and contact
lenses, try OPSM Express,
on the Lower Ground
Floor, Canberra Centre,
Civic (& 02/6249 7344).
It’s open 9am to 5:30pm
Monday through Thursday,
9am to 9pm Friday, and
9am to 4pm Saturday.

Hospitals For medical
attention, go to the Canberra
Hospital, Yamba
Drive, Garran (& 02/6244

2222), or call the Accident
& Emergency Department

(& 02/6244 2324).
Hot Lines For information
and counseling, call
the Rape Crisis Centre
(& 02/6247 2525; 24 hr.);
the Drug/Alcohol Crisis
Line (& 02/6207 9977; 24
hr.); Lifeline Crisis Counselling
(& 13 11 14; www.
lifeline.org.au); the Salvation
Army Counselling
Service (& 1300/363 622);
the Poison Information
Centre (& 13 11 26); and
the National Roads &
Motorists Association

(& 13 11 11).
Internet Access The
National Library, Parkes
Place, Parkes (& 02/6262
1111), has e-mail facilities
available Monday through
Thursday 9am to 9pm, Friday
and Saturday 9am to
5pm, Sunday 1:30pm to
5pm. Internet access is
readily available around
town at other libraries and
in Internet cafes. The Canberra
Visitors’ Centre can
provide you with a full list.

Pharmacies (Chemist
Shops) There are three
pharmacies in the Canberra
Centre, Civic, open
during general shopping
hours. A number of afterhours
pharmacies are
listed in the Canberra
Yellow Pages.

Photographic Needs
Ted’s Camera House has
stores at 9 Petrie Plaza
(& 02/6247 8711) and in


the Canberra Centre Post Office The Cangeneral
delivery (poste res(&
 02/6249 7364), and berra GPO, 53–73 Alinga tante) address is c/o Canboth
are good places to St., Civic (& 02/6209 berra GPO, ACT 2601.
buy camera gear and film 1680), is open Monday Restrooms Public restand
to have photos through Friday from rooms can be found near
printed. 8:30am to 5:30pm. The the city bus exchange, City
Hall, and London Circuit.

WHERE TO STAY

Generally, accommodations are much cheaper in Canberra than in most other state
capitals. Many people travel to Canberra during the week, so many hotels offer
cheaper weekend rates and you should always ask about special deals. The Canberra
Visitors’ Centre (& 1300/554 114) can provide information about other
accommodation options.

Very Expensive

Hyatt Hotel Canberra For a very long time, the Hyatt Hotel was the only
five-star hotel in the city, which made it a favorite with visiting heads of state and
celebrities and the Art Deco masterpiece is still the place to see and been seen in
the capital. It has a great location—a 2-minute drive from the city center—in the
shadow of Parliament House and between Lake Burley Griffin and the Parliamentary
Triangle. Standard rooms have a king-size bed and marble bathrooms. Children
under 12 stay free in parent’s room and you’ll get 50% discount if you book a second
room for children under 12.

Commonwealth Ave., Yarralumla, ACT 2600. &800/633-7313 in the U.S. and Canada, or 02/6270 1234.
Fax 02/6281 5998. http://canberra.park.hyatt.com. 248 units. A$365–A$475 standard double; suites from
A$600 and up. Extra person A$80. Ask about weekend packages and special rates. AE, DC, MC, V. Free
parking. Bus: 2, 3, 6, 934, or 935. Amenities: Restaurant; cafe; bike rental; concierge; health club and spa;
indoor pool; room service; lit tennis court. In room: A/C, TV w/pay movies, fridge, hair dryer, minibar, MP3
docking station (in deluxe rooms and suites), Wi-Fi (A$1.65 for 3 min. up to A$29 for 24 hr.).

Expensive

Crowne Plaza Canberra This hotel is next door to the National Convention
Centre and Casino Canberra. Its car-oriented approach makes it a little inconvenient
for pedestrians, but the gardens (Glebe Park) at the back are good for early
morning strolls. Rooms face onto internal balconies that look down to the restaurants
below. Standard rooms are user friendly and comfortable; most come with one
queen-size bed or two doubles. Parkview doubles overlook the gardens. Weekend
rates drop dramatically, so it’s worth checking the website.

1 Binara St., Canberra, ACT 2601. &1800/007 697 in Australia, or 02/6247 8999. Fax 02/6257 4903.
www.crowneplaza.com. 295 units. A$162–A$414 standard double. Extra person A$65. Weekend discounts
available. Children 18 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking A$15; A$25
for valet parking. Bus: 4, 5, 30, or 80. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; concierge; medium-size indoor pool;
room service; day spa; Wi-Fi (free in lobby). In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, minibar.

Diamant Hotel This new luxury boutique hotel, with its eclectic art collection
and dark moody color schemes, has more personality than most of Canberra’s
businesslike hotels. The rooms are a bit on the small side (so opt for a deluxe or

15
CANBERRA

Where to
Stay

691


premier room rather than the standard), but it’s in a good location close to Lake
Burley Griffin and a 5-minute walk from the city center.

15 Edinburgh Ave., Canberra, ACT 2601. &02/6175 2222. Fax 02/6175 2233. www.diamant.com.au. 80
units. A$185–A$320 double; A$300 and up suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking A$25. Bus: 3, 81, 981, or 984.
Amenities: 2 restaurants; 2 bars; health club; room service; Wi-Fi (free in lobby). In room: A/C, TV, DVD/
CD player, fridge, hair dryer, Internet (A$7 for 1 hr.; A$20 for 24 hr.), minibar, MP3 docking station.

Hotel Realm


Canberra’s other five-star hotel (there are only two) is not
nearly as stuffy as the Hyatt (see above) and is another good choice for those that like a
bit of design rather than pure function in their hotel rooms. Located a stone’s throw away
from Parliament House and within walking distances of the restaurants and bars of
Manuka and Kingston, all rooms are light, bright, and airy. Suites have spacious balconies
and kitchens. The Mudd Spa has a range of (expensive) pampering treatments.

18 National Circuit, Barton, ACT 2600. &02/6163 1800. Fax 02/6163 1801. www.hotelrealm.com.au.
158 units. A$225–A$340 double; A$285 and up for suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking A$10; A$15 for valet
parking. Bus: 6, 28, or 935. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; gymnasium (fee); health club and spa; heated
pool. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, Internet (A$9.95 1 hr.; A$30 24 hr.), minibar, Wi-Fi (suites only,
A$9.95 1 hr.; A$30 24 hr.).

Medina Executive James Court


Medina hotel apartments always offer
great value. As with others scattered around the country, the Medina Executive
James Court is modern, spankingly clean, centrally located, and has a fully equipped
15
kitchen and laundry. The one- and two-bedroom apartments have a TV in the living
room and another in the bedroom, and all apartments come with a balcony and
corner spa in the en-suite bathroom. A sister property, the Medina Classic, at 11
Giles St., Kingston (&02/6239 8100; fax 02/6239 7226), is just 4km (21.2 miles)
from the city center in fashionable Kingston. It has both an indoor and outdoor pool
and also offers one- and two-bedroom apartments. Rates for this property are A$200
for a one-bedroom apartment and A$246 for a two-bedroom apartment.

74 Northbourne Ave., Canberra, ACT 2601. &1300/300 232 in Australia, or 02/6240 1234. Fax 02/
6240 1235. www.medinaapartments.com.au. 150 units. A$235 1-bedroom apt; A$290 2-bedroom apt.
A$50 extra person. AE, MC, V. Parking A$8. Bus: 30, 31, 58, 56, 958, 956, 980, or 982. Amenities: Restaurant;
bar; concierge; health club/sauna; outdoor pool; room service. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer,
Internet (A$11 1 hr.; A$22 24 hr.), kitchen, laundry, minibar.

Waldorf Apartment Hotel


An easy walk to the Canberra Convention Centre
and many government and corporate offices, this is a great option for business travelers.
There’s a range of bright and cheerful rooms, from functional studios to onebedroom
(some with a separate office) and two-bedroom serviced apartments. All
come with a fully equipped kitchen and laundry and private in-room fax. The rooftop
barbecue area is popular with families. Ask about weekly rates.
2 Akuna St., Canberra, ACT 2601. &1800/188 388 in Australia, or 02/6229 1234. Fax 02/6229 1235.
www.waldorfcanberra.com.au. 80 units. A$155–A$235 studio apt; A$175–A$255 1-bedroom apt; A$255–
A$335 2-bedroom apt. A$15 extra person. AE, DC, MC, V. Undercover parking A$15. Bus: 4, 5, 30, or 80.
Amenities: Restaurant; bar; gymnasium; indoor heated lap pool; sauna; half-size tennis court. In room:
A/C, TV, fax, hair dryer, kitchen, minibar, Wi-Fi (A$5 1 hr.; A$15 24 hr.).

Moderate

The Brassey of Canberra Rooms in this 1927 heritage-listed building, formerly
a boarding house for visiting government officials, are large, quiet, and somewhat
plush. The garden bar and piano lounge are popular. Other good points include its

CANBERRA

Where to
Stay


proximity to Parliament House and other major attractions, and the hearty breakfasts.
The hotel underwent extensive renovations a few years ago, which included
the remodeling of many of the doubles into larger heritage rooms.

Belmore Gardens, Barton, ACT 2600. &1800/659 191 in Australia, or 02/6273 3766. Fax 02/6273 2791.
www.brassey.net.au. 81 units. A$177 double; A$197 heritage double; A$240 heritage family room. Rates
include buffet breakfast. Check for specials. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. Bus: 4, 5, 80, 938, or 980.
Amenities: Restaurant; bar. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, minibar.

Quality Suites Clifton on Northbourne Canberra’s newest government-rated
four-and-a-half-star apartment hotel is just minutes from the heart of the shopping,
dining, and entertainment district. The apartments can be a little soulless, but if you
are after lots of room to move, you’ll appreciate their generous size. All of the one-
and two-bedroom apartments have private balconies, fully equipped kitchens, cable
TV, and laundry facilities. A complimentary airport shuttle is available on request
Monday to Friday. It’s primarily a business hotel, which means you can often get a
great weekend rate.

100 Northbourne Ave., Canberra City, ACT 2601. &02/6262 6266. Fax 02/6203 8444. www.clifton
suites.com.au. 153 units. A$170–A$390 1-bedroom apt; A$245–A$490 2-bedroom apt. A$45 extra
person. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. Bus: 30, 31, 58, 56, 958, 956, 980, or 982. Amenities: Restaurant;
gymnasium; 25m (82-ft.) pool. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, kitchen, Wi-Fi (A$4 per hr.).

Inexpensive

Victor Lodge

Backpackers and budget travelers frequent this friendly place,
next to Kingston’s shops and about a 10-minute drive from the city center and a
short walk from the train station. Rooms vary, from dorms with four or five beds to
modern, simple doubles. Each has a wash basin. There are communal showers and
toilets and a courtyard.
Next door is the reasonable Best Western Motel Monaro, at 27 Dawes St.
(&02/6295 2111; http://motelmonaro.bestwestern.com.au). It charges A$145 for
a double. Apparently, parents often park their teenage kids at the lodge and live it up
at the motel.

29 Dawes St., Kingston, ACT 2604. &02/6295 7777. Fax 02/6295 2466. www.victorlodge.com.au. 29
units, none with bathroom. A$96 double; A$38 dorm bed. Rates include continental breakfast. MC, V. Free
parking. Bus: 4, 5, 80, 938, or 980. Amenities: Dining room; bike rental. In room: A/C, Wi-Fi (A$10 24 hr.).

WHERE TO DINE

Expensive

Alto


MODERN AUSTRALIAN At the top of Black Mountain Tower, Alto
has a revolving floor that does a full circuit in just under 90 minutes. The decor is
modern and bright, but it’s pretty hard to drag your eyes away from the view, and
unlike most revolving restaurants atop tourist attractions, the food here (modern
Australian with a European twist and lots of fresh seasonal produce) is actually quite
good. Try the Wagyu carpaccio with shaved black Perigold truffle, white asparagus,
and a fine leaf salad (in season), followed by crispy skinned red snapper with a white
bean puree and zucchini ribbons.
Black Mountain Dr., Acton. & 02/6247 5518. www.altotower.com.au. Reservations required. Main
courses A$36–A$41. AE, MC, V. Daily 6–11pm; Thurs–Fri and Sun noon–3pm.

15
CANBERRA

Where to Dine

693


The Poachers Way
The Poachers Way, a recommended
self-drive route through the ACT’s wine
country, is a great way to explore Canberra’s
surrounding regions of Hall,
Murrumbateman, Gundaroo, and Yass
while indulging in some of the area’s
best wine and food along the way. The
cool climate wines of the Canberra district
are coming of age, with more than
140 vineyards and 30 cellar doors open
to the public, and eateries such as the
Poachers Pantry are redefining the capital’s
culinary landscape. Try some gourmet
smoked meats and taste the wines
at the Pantry’s Smokehouse Cafe, 431
Nanima Rd., Hall (&02/6230 2487;
daily 10am–5pm), and enjoy a long
lunch at the Royal Hotel’s Grazing restaurant
in Gundaroo, at the corner of
Cork and Harp streets (&02/6236
8777; Fri–Sun and most public holidays
for lunch, Thurs–Sat for dinner). The
menu at the Royal is uniquely focused
on the Canberra district, showcasing
the best local fresh farm produce and
probably the world’s largest Canberra
district wine list. Download a map of
the trail and cellar-door opening times
at www.thepoachersway.com.au.

CANBERRA

Where to Dine

The Chairman and Yip


ASIAN/AUSTRALIAN One of Canberra’s best

15
restaurants: Upbeat and popular with political bigwigs, it has a reputation of being
the place to see and be seen. Chinese classics are given an East-meets-West twist,
and the result is delicious. I love the decor, especially the Mao-style pop art decorating
the walls. The signature dishes are the roasted duck and shiitake pancakes, and
the peppered beef and scallop hot pot, but everything on the menu is good.

108 Bunda St., Civic. & 02/6248 7109. www.thechairmanandyip.com. Reservations required. Main
courses A$28–A$34. AE, DC, MC, V. Tues–Fri noon–2:30pm; Mon–Sat 6–10:30pm.

The Ginger Room


FRENCH/VIETNAMESE/AUSTRALIAN If only
the walls could talk, what secrets they could tell. The private members’ dining room
in Old Parliament House has been transformed into a fine dining experience. Chef
Janet Jeffs serves up a mouthwatering array of very clever Indochine meals with
quirky Australian overtones: Rare roasted kangaroo rice paper rolls with beetroot and
watercress salad are just one of the delights on offer when we last visited. All menus
have set prices, and you can choose two, three, four, or five courses; each is really
quite a good value. Whatever you do, don’t leave without trying the chef’s signature
dish, the eastern king prawn egg net with nu cham dressing. Sublime.

Old Parliament House (back entrance, upper level), Queen Victoria Terrace, Parkes. &02/6270 8262.
www.gingercatering.com.au. Reservations required. Fixed-course menus: 2 courses A$59; 3 courses
A$69; 4 courses A$79; 7 courses A$89. AE, DC, MC, V. Tues–Sat 6–11pm.

Waters Edge


EUROPEAN This restaurant, with sweeping views across
Lake Burley Griffin to the Australian War Memorial, is the perfect place for a long,
languid lunch. Dinner’s just as good, but of course the views are hard to see in the
dark. It’s an eclectic European menu that changes with the seasons, but the dishes
from southern France are what the chef seems to excel at, and the duck, however it
is prepared, has never been disappointing. Leave room for dessert.

40 Parkes Place, Parkes. &02/6273 5066. www.courgette.com.au/watersedge. Reservations required.
Main courses A$36. AE, DC, MC, V. Wed–Sun noon–3pm; Tues–Sun 6:30–10pm.


Moderate

Cream Cafe


CAFE/MODERN AUSTRALIAN You’ll find a mixed crowd in
this little corner eatery at the heart of the Canberra center restaurant and bar strip,
whatever the time of day or night. There’s a range of eating areas, with a bar, a dining
room, and outside space, and dishes have a fair amount of Asian, European, and
Mediterranean influences. It’s open all day serving coffees, breakfast, and light
lunches; after dinner, the space morphs into a nice cocktail bar with tapas-style
snacks.
Bunda and Genge sts., Canberra City. & 02/6162 1448. www.creamcafebar.com.au. Main courses
A$21–A$33. AE, MC, V. Mon 11:30am–late; Tues–Fri 7:30am–late; Sat 9am–late; Sun 9am–4pm.

Milk and Honey CAFE/MODERN AUSTRALIAN There’s a happy buzz in this
bright retro-styled cafe that offers everything from light snacks, smoothies, and
milkshakes to full meals. There’s also a great choice of alcoholic drinks from the bar,
including cocktails, and freshly squeezed fruit juices. Milk and Honey also does
pasta well, and its generous risotto stacked with seafood is recommended. It can get
crowded though and seating is cramped.

Centre Cinema Building, 29 Garema Place, Civic. &02/6247 7722. www.milkandhoney.net.au. Reservations
recommended. Main courses A$18–A$28. AE, MC, V. Mon–Fri 7:30am–late; Sat 8am–late; Sun
9am–6pm.

Podfood


FRESH/AUSTRALIAN It’s not the cheapest cafe in town, but
it’s pretty hard to beat this place if you’re looking for somewhere to linger over a lazy
late-morning breakfast (although they also serve lunch here). Set on the grounds of
Pialligo Plant Farm just near the airport, Podfood serves sophisticated, contemporary
food in a renovated 1930s cottage, and seating spills out onto a lovely outdoor area.
The field mushrooms with Persian feta mousse are sublime. The chef also runs
regular cooking classes.

Pialligo Plant Farm, 12 Beltana Rd., Pialligo. &02/6257 3388. www.podfood.com.au. Breakfast A$17–
A$19; main lunch courses A$25–A$32. AE, DC, MC, V. Tues–Sat 10am–4pm.

Portia’s Place ASIAN A small restaurant serving excellent home-style cookery,
Portia’s Place often fills up early and does a roaring lunchtime trade. The best things
on the menu are lamb ribs in shang tung sauce, King Island steak in pepper sauce,
flaming pork (brought to your table wrapped in foil and, yes, flaming), and
Queensland trout stir-fried with snow peas, although the steamed dumplings—
home-style gow-tse filled with pork and freshly chopped chives served in a bamboo
basket—are hard to pass up.

11 Kennedy St., Kingston. &02/6239 7970. Reservations recommended. Main courses A$20–A$33.
AE, DC, MC, V. Sun–Fri 11:30am–2:30pm; daily 5–10:30pm.

Inexpensive

Abell’s Kopi Tiam INDONESIAN/MALAYSIAN Bright, cheap, and cheerful—
what this little place lacks in decor it makes up for in flavor. The menu is a mix of
southeast Asian cooking, with a strong Nonya (fusion of Malay and Chinese) influence.
It gets busy, but service is brisk and the food is always good.

7 Furneaux St., Manuka. &02/6239 4199. Main courses A$14–A$25. AE, MC, V. Tues–Sun 11:30am–
2:30pm; Tues–Sat 5:30–10pm; Sun 5:30–9pm.

15
CANBERRA

Where to Dine

695


Market Mania
Every Sunday, the old bus depot in
Kingston is home to the Old Bus Depot
Markets, 21 Wentworth Ave. (& 02/
6292 8391; www.obdm.com.au; Sun
10am–4pm), where you can pick up
some great handmade souvenirs—arts,
crafts, clothes, soaps, jewelry, just
about anything really. The quality is
generally excellent, and it’s also a
great place to stock up on fresh fruit,
cheeses, and produce if planning a picnic.
There’s a range of food stalls serving
inexpensive lunches and good
coffee and always a mix of buskers to
entertain the crowd.

Debacle MODERN AUSTRALIAN/TAPAS It’s hard to say whether you’d call this
place a pub or a restaurant, but really, who cares? Casual and always busy, there are more
than 120 beers to choose from, almost as many wines, and a great menu of tapas-size
dishes as well as hearty fare like risotto, pasta, some killer gourmet burgers, and really
good pizzas. The food’s fresh—the management likes to boast that they don’t even own
a freezer! There’s two-for-one pizza on Mondays and Tuesdays.

30 Lonsdale St., Braddon. &02/6247 1314. Reservations recommended. Main courses A$12–A$20.
AE, MC, V. Daily 8:30am–midnight.

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Sammy’s Kitchen CHINESE/MALAYSIAN Sammy’s is a bit of Canberra institution,
with a perennially buzzing atmosphere. It’s always busy, even though it has
room for 100 diners. Food is great, but the brisk service can be a bit hit and miss at
times. It’s the place to go for the best laksa in Canberra.

North Quarter, Canberra Centre, Bunda St., Canberra City. &02/6247 1464. Main courses A$12–A$20.
AE, MC, V. Daily 11:30am–2:30pm; Mon–Thurs 5–10:30pm; Fri–Sat 5–11:30pm; Sun 5:30–10pm.

SEEING THE SIGHTS

Australian Institute of Sport (AIS)


Sports nuts and champions in the making
love the AIS, where Australian sporting superstars are made. Go behind the
scenes on a guided tour and learn the secrets of what it takes win a gold medal,
watch gymnasts in action or the country’s top swimmers doing their laps.
Leverrier Cres, Bruce (about 7km/4 miles from the city center). &02/6214 1010. www.ausport.gov.au.
Guided tours A$16 adults, A$9 children, A$44 family (2 adults and up to 3 children). Tours depart daily
at 10, 11:30am, 1, and 2:30pm. Bus: 7 or 980.

Australian War Memorial


More than just a monument to Australian
troops who gave their lives for their country, the relics, artifacts, and displays tell the
story of Australia’s conflicts abroad, but unlike many military museums, the displays
do not glorify war. The main focus of the memorial is the Hall of Memory, where the
body of an unknown soldier brought back from a World War I battlefield lies entombed
among beautiful mosaics and stained-glass windows. I love coming here for the art
collection alone. Kids will gravitate toward the Discovery Zone where you can dodge
sniper fire in a WWI trench, take control of an Iroquois helicopter, and peer through
the periscope of a Cold War submarine. New is the “Conflicts 1945 to Today” gallery,
which looks at Asian conflicts and peacekeeping operations since 1947.

CANBERRA

Seeing the Sights


At the head of Anzac Parade on Limestone Ave. &02/6243 4211. www.awm.gov.au. Free admission.
Daily 10am–5pm (when the Last Post is played). Closed Dec 25. Free guided 90-min. tours every halfhour
10–11am and 1–2pm. Bus: 10, 930, or 931.

Black Mountain Tower The 195m (640-ft.) tower on the summit of Black
Mountain is both landmark and must-see attraction for every first time visitor to
Canberra. From the top, the open-air and enclosed viewing galleries provide magnificent
360-degree views over the city and the surrounding countryside. The tower
also provides telecommunications facilities for the city and most people still refer to
it by its former name, Telstra Tower.

Black Mountain Dr. &02/6219 6111. Admission A$7.50 adults, A$3 children. Daily 9am–10pm. Bus
81 or 981.

Canberra Deep Space Communication Complex


This information
center, which stands beside huge tracking dishes, is a must for anyone interested in
space. There are plenty of models, audiovisual recordings, and displays, including a
space suit, space food, and archival film footage of the Apollo moon landings. The
complex is still active, tracking and recording results from the Mars Pathfinder,
Voyager 1 and 2, and the Cassini, Soho, Galileo, and Ulysses space exploration projects,
as well as providing a link with NASA spacecraft. This is a great stop on the
way back from the Tidbinbilla Nature Reserve (p. 700). There’s no public bus
service, but several tour companies offer programs that include the complex.

421 Discovery Dr., Tidbinbilla, 39km (24 miles) southwest of Civic. &02/6201 7880. www.cdscc.nasa.
gov. Free admission. Daily 9am–5pm.

Canberra Museum and Gallery A small museum and art gallery focusing just
on the Canberra district, the highlight here is the Nolan collection, which includes
some of the famous Ned Kelly series. It’s a good gallery to visit on a rainy day, but
not at the expense of the National Gallery, Portrait Gallery, or National Museum of
Australia.

Corner London Circuit and Civic Square, Canberra City. &02/6207 3968. Admission free. Tues–Fri
10am–5pm (4pm in winter), Sat–Sun noon–5pm (4pm in winter).

Museum of Australian Democracy at Old Parliament House


It was
only ever meant to be temporary until the “proper” house was built on Capital Hill,
but the Old Parliament House was the seat of government from 1927 to 1988—
despite the objections of city architect Walter Burley Griffin (who likened the placement
of the Old Parliament to “filling the front yard with outhouses”). If you need a
refresher course as to precisely how democracy is meant to work (as opposed to how
it really works), you’ll find the Museum of Australian Democracy inside. Exhibitions
focus on the history of democracy and some of the key Australian figures in the
political past. It’s interesting but primarily aimed at school kids, although political
junkies will love walking through the old rooms, including the Prime Minister’s
office, that have been pretty much left exactly as they were when the politicians
moved out to the new Parliament House on the hill. The free guided tours (there are
12 throughout the day focusing on various aspects of the house) bring the history of
the house alive and are highly recommended. Outside on the lawn is the Aboriginal
Tent Embassy, which was set up in 1972 in a bid to persuade the authorities to
recognize the land ownership claims of Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander people.

15
CANBERRA

Seeing the

697


It was the first place the red, black, and yellow Aboriginal flag was flown. The Australian
Heritage Commission now recognizes the campsite as a place of special
cultural significance.

On King George Terrace, midway btw. the new Parliament House (see below) and the lake. &02/6270
8222. www.moadoph.gov.au. Admission A$2 adults, A$1 children, A$5 families. Daily 9am–5pm. Bus: 3,
934, or 935.

National Archives of Australia


The National Archives holds the records of
all Australian Government activities since Federation in 1901, as well as a huge
amount of documents from the 19th century. Sounds boring, but they put together
some great exhibitions that are anything but—most are well worth seeing. Expect to
see letters, photos, books, bowls, guns, clothes, and suitcases, among other things.
Queen Victoria Terrace, Parkes. &02/6212 3600. www.naa.gov.au. Free admission. Daily 9am–5pm.
Bus: 2, 3, 6.

National Capital Exhibition


This little information center beside the lake is
a great way to come to grips with the original vision of Walter Burley Griffin and
Marion Mahony Griffin, the architects behind the city’s unique design.
On the lakeshore at Regatta Point in Commonwealth Park. &02/6257 1068. Free admission. Mon–Fri
9am–5pm; Sat–Sun 10am–4pm. Closed public holidays except Australia Day (Jan 26) and Canberra Day
(second Mon in Mar).

15 National Film and Sound Archive The National Film and Sound
Archive holds 100 years of Australian film, radio, and television history in a gorgeous
Art Deco building that used to be the Institute of Anatomy (and is reputedly the
most haunted building in Canberra). There are a range of changing exhibitions, but
the best reason to come here is for one of the regular movie screenings, where you
can catch some of the Australia’s best classics and international cult films on the big
screen. Check out the website for programs.


McCoy Circuit, Acton. &02/6248 2000. www.nfsa.afc.gov.au. Free admission (movies extra). Free shows
weekends 11am and 3pm. Mon–Fri 9am–5pm; Sat–Sun and public holidays 10am–5pm. Bus: 3 or 934.

National Gallery of Australia


Home to more than 100,000 works of art,
the National Gallery showcases Australian and international art in 11 galleries,
including a permanent one and traveling blockbuster exhibitions from international
collections. The free 1-hour guided tours are brilliant and depart daily at 11:30am
and 2:30pm; an Australian art tour departs daily at 11am and 2pm. On Tuesdays,
Thursdays, and Sundays, a free tour focuses on Aboriginal art at 12:30pm. A sculpture
garden surrounding the gallery is always open to the public.

Parkes Place. &02/6240 6501. www.nga.gov.au. Free admission (except for major touring exhibitions).
Daily 10am–5pm. Closed Dec 25. Bus: 2, 3, 6, 934, or 935.

National Museum of Australia


If you visit only one museum in
Australia, make it this one. Using state-of-the-art technology and hands-on exhibits
that rely more on images, soundscapes, and personal stories than dusty old objects,
the museum profiles 50,000 years of indigenous heritage, settlement since 1788,
and key events including Federation and the 2000 Sydney Olympics. The collection
has everything from a carcass of the extinct Tasmanian tiger to Australia’s largest
collection of bark paintings, racehorse Phar Lap’s heart, and the No. 1 Holden Prototype
car. A new gallery called “Australian Journeys” features more than 750 objects

CANBERRA

Seeing the Sights


Glass Act
Canberra Glassworks, 11 Wentworth
Ave., Kingston (&02/6260 7005;
www.canberraglassworks.com), one of
the city’s best contemporary glass art
galleries and studio spaces, offers “off
the street” glass-making classes on
weekends. Blow your own paperweight,
make a fused glass tile, or create some
beautiful glass beads. Each class is 20
minutes and no experience is necessary,
although bookings are. Your finished
artwork is mailed home to you
after it has been fired or cooled.
Admission is free; classes are A$30 to
A$70. It’s open Wednesday to Sunday
10am to 4pm; classes on weekends
only.

related to trade, exploration, travel, and migration. Highlights include a rich collection
of Captain Cook artifacts and convict tokens. I love this museum, but it is
designed with an Australian audience in mind and overseas visitors may find locals’
affection for some of the displays baffling. Guided tours (daily 9:30am, noon,
1:30pm, and 3pm; First Australian tour focusing on Aboriginal and Torres Strait
Islander history and culture daily at 11am) may help make things a little more clear.

Acton Peninsula (about 5km/3 miles from the city center). &1800/026 132 in Australia or 02/6208
5000. www.nma.gov.au. Free admission (fees for special exhibitions). Guided tours A$7.50 adults, A$5
children, A$20 family (2 adults and up to 3 children). Daily 9am–5pm. Bus: 3, 934, or 981.

National Portrait Gallery


Don’t come to this gallery expecting to see lots
of gold-framed figures in suits and robes because you’ll be disappointed, although
there are a few if you look really hard. The National Portrait Gallery tends to focus
instead on more modern faces. It’s all about the people who have shaped Australia
and portrays them in a range of styles, from digital media and sculpture, textiles and
photography, even cartoons. It’s well worth a look.

King Edward Terrace, Parkes. &02/6102 7000. www.portrait.gov.au. Free admission (fees for special
exhibitions). Daily 10am–5pm. Bus: 2, 3, or 934.

National Zoo and Aquarium


Private zoos tend to be rundown, dinky
affairs that seldom offer good value for money or humane animal enclosures. This
one, though, looks after 28 endangered species in a nice bushland setting and has
Australia’s largest collection of big cats, including even a couple of ligers—or are
they tigons? It’s not cheap (A$95 on weekdays and A$125 on weekends and public
holidays), but the 2-hour ZooVenture Tour is a great way to get up close and personal
to tigers, lions, and bears. There’s a safety fence between you and the big cats, but
that doesn’t feel like much protection when you’re looking a 110-kilogram (243-lb.)
Sumatran tiger in the eye as he takes a piece of meat from your hand. There is also
a “Meet a Cheetah” program that takes you inside the cheetah’s enclosure.

Scrivener Dam, Lady Denman Dr., Yarralumla. &02/6287 8400. www.nationalzoo.com.au. Admission
A$30 adults, A$19 kids 4–15, A$90 families. Daily 10am–5pm. Bus: 81 or 981.

Parliament House


Conceived by American architect Walter Burley Griffin
in 1912, but not built until 1988, Canberra’s focal point was designed to blend
organically into its setting at the top of Capital Hill; only a national flag supported
by a giant four-footed flagpole rises above the peak of the hill. Inside are more than
15
CANBERRA

Seeing the

699


INTO THE bush CAPITAL


The Australian National Botanic
Gardens, Clunies Ross Street, Acton
(&02/6250 9540), are a must-see for
anyone with a passing interest in Australian
native plants. The 51-hectare
(126-acre) gardens on the lower slopes
of Black Mountain contain more than
600 species of eucalyptus, a rainforest,
a Tasmanian alpine garden, and walking
trails. Free guided tours depart from the
visitor center at 11am and 2pm each day.
The gardens are open daily from 8:30am
to 5pm (extended in Jan to 6pm weekdays
and 8pm weekends). The visitor
center is open daily from 9am to
4:30pm.

Namadgi is the Aboriginal word for

the rugged mountains southwest of

Canberra, and Namadgi National Park,

15
at 105,900 hectares (261,684 acres),
makes up more than half of the Australian
Capital Territory. Bimberi Peak
(1,911m/6,270 ft.) is the park’s highest
feature and is only 318m (1,043 ft.)
lower than Mount Kosciuszko, Australia’s
highest mountain. There is a network of
public roads within the park that pass
through the majestic mountain country,
but the unsealed roads are narrow and
can be slippery when wet or frosty.
(Watch out for kangaroos, too.) Much of
Namadgi’s beauty, however, lies beyond
its main roads and picnic areas. There
are 170km (106 miles) of marked walking
trails in the park, but you will need
to be well prepared if you are going to

CANBERRA

Seeing the Sights

walk into the more remote areas. Before
you depart, make sure you sign one of
the bushwalking registers located at the
visitor center and elsewhere in the park.
The Namadgi Visitors Centre, on the
Nass/Boboyan Road, 3km (13.4 miles)
south of the township of Tharwa
(&02/6207 2900), has maps and
information on walking trails.

Another great place to see some
Australian wildlife is at the Tidbinbilla
Nature Reserve, a 40-minute drive from
the city center along Tourist Drive 5.
There are walking trails, ranger-guided
activities, great picnic facilities, and prolific
wildlife, including koalas and the
endangered brush-tailed rock wallaby.
The surrounding mountains are of huge
cultural significance to Aboriginal people;
Tidbinbilla is derived from the
Aboriginal word jedbinbilla, a place
where “boys were made men.” There are
lots of Aboriginal sites in the reserve,
including the 21,000-year-old Birrigai
Rock Shelter. The new elevated boardwalk
across the wetlands is well worth
taking, especially if you like bird-watching.
Bush-bird feeding time is 2:30pm
daily.

Go Bush Tours (& 02/6231 3023)
runs tours to the reserve as well as the
neighboring Canberra Deep Space
Communication Complex from A$130,
including morning tea and lunch. Or,
for the same price, you can go on a
tour of Namadgi National Park.

3,000 works of Australian arts and crafts, and extensive areas of the building are
open to the general public. Just outside the main entrance, look for a mosaic by
Michael Tjakamarra Nelson, Meeting Place, which represents a gathering of Aboriginal
tribes. There’s also a 20m-long (66-ft.) tapestry of an Arthur Boyd painting in
the Great Hall on the first floor and one of the four known versions of the Magna
Carta in the Great Hall beneath the flagpole. Parliament is usually in session Monday
through Thursday between mid-February and late June and from mid-August to
mid-December (check www.aph.gov.au for scheduled sittings). Both the Lower


House (the House of Representatives, where the prime minister sits) and the Upper
House (the Senate) have public viewing galleries. The best time to see the action is during
Question Time, which starts at 2pm in the Lower House. Make reservations for
gallery tickets through the sergeant-at-arms (& 02/6277 4889) at least a day in
advance. Free 45-minute tours of the building start every 30 minutes beginning at 9am.

Capital Hill. &02/6277 2727. Free admission. Daily 9am–5pm. Closed Dec 25. Bus: 3 or 934.

Questacon—The National Science and Technology Centre


Finally, a museum that makes science fun. Questacon has more than 200 hands-on
exhibits that can keep you (and your kids) entertained for hours. Exhibits cluster in
seven galleries, each representing a different aspect of science. The full-motion
roller-coaster simulator and artificial earthquake are usually big hits.

King Edward Terrace, Parkes. &02/6270 2800. www.questacon.edu.au Admission A$18 adults, A$12
children, A$49 families. Daily 9am–5pm. Closed Dec 25. Bus: 3, 934, or 935.

Royal Australian Mint


If you’re interested in making money, you’ll love the
Mint. The cascading coins being made on the factory floor are mesmerizing, and you
can learn about the history of Australian currency, view rare coins, and watch the big
robots at work. Or hand over A$3 to mint your very own A$1 coin—at those prices,
you’d think they have a license to print money. But then again, I guess they do!
Denison St, Deakin. &02/6202 6853. www.ramint.gov.au Admission free. Mon–Fri 9am–4pm; weekends
and public holidays 10am–4pm. Closed Good Friday and Dec 25. Bus: 2 or 932.

OUTDOOR PURSUITS

BIKING With 120km (74 miles) of bike paths, Canberra is made for exploring on
two wheels. Rent a bike from Mr. Spoke’s Bike Hire, Barrine Drive, near the boat
hire on the Acton side of the lake (& 02/6257 1188). Bikes for adults cost A$15
for an hour, A$25 for a half-day, and A$35 for a day.

BOATING Burley Griffin Boat Hire, Barrine Drive, Acton (&02/6249 6861),
rents paddle boats for A$28 per hour, kayaks for A$15, and two-person canoes for
A$20 per hour. It’s open daily from September until May.

SWIMMING Swim in the wake of Ian Thorpe and other famous Australian superswimmers.
The indoor heated pool at the Australian Institute of Sport (& 02/
6214 1281; see p. 696) is open to the public at certain times during the day (call
ahead to check schedules). Adults pay A$4.70 to swim, children A$3.20.

TENNIS The National Sports Club, Mouat St, Lyneham (&02/6248 0929),
has tennis, squash, and indoor sports facilities. Call for court bookings and prices.

CANBERRA AFTER DARK

Most of Canberra’s best cocktail bars, clubs, and pubs can be found around Garema
Place and nearby City Walk, and in the Sydney and Melbourne Buildings, or head
farther afield to Kingston and Manuka.

For grown-up drinks, the Julep Lounge, 8 Franklin St. in Manuka (&02/6239
5060), has a sophisticated 1920s Parisian style and a huge cocktail list. In the city,
the Muddle Bar on West Row (&02/6262 7898) also does great cocktails.

15
CANBERRA

Canberra After Dark

701


Weird Canberra
If you’re looking for something different
to do on a Friday night, try the
Weird Canberra Ghost and History Tour.
Led by “cryptonaturalist” Tim the
Yowie Man (yes, that’s his real name; he
changed it after spotting an unidentified
big black hairy creature in Canberra’s
Brindabella Mountains in 1994), the
3-hour tour visits around 20 weird and/
or spooky sites, including a funeral parlor
that was once a hot bed of espionage
activity, a haunted pioneer’s
house, the hotel room where one of
Australia’s prime ministers died, and a
very spooky air-disaster memorial that
had us all shrieking in terror when
weird orbs appeared in our photographs.
Tours depart on selected Friday
evenings at 8pm and cost A$69. Tours
are very popular, so book in advance.
To check dates, visit www.destinytours.
com.au/canberra.htm or call &02/
9487 2895.

Of the pubs in town, the best in the city center are the British-style Wig & Pen,
on the corner of Limestone and Alinga streets (&02/6248 0171), which brews its
own beers; the popular Moosehead’s Pub, 105 London Circuit, in the south of the
city (& 02/6257 6496); the Phoenix, 21 East Row (& 02/6247 1606); and

15 P. J. O’Reileys, on the corner of Moore and Alinga streets (& 02/6230 4752).
King O’Malleys, 131 City Walk (&02/6257 0111), is another popular Irish pub
in the city, despite (or perhaps because of) being named after the man responsible
for ensuring that alcohol was illegal in the ACT from 1910 until 1928. When Federal
Parliament moved to Canberra in 1927, one of the first pieces of legislation passed
in the new Parliament House was the repeal of O’Malley’s prohibition laws.
If you’re looking to roll some dice, the Casino Canberra, 21 Binara St., Civic,
in Glebe Park (& 02/6257 7074), is a small, older-style casino offering all the
usual casino games daily from noon to 6am. Dress regulations prohibit leisurewear,
running shoes, and denim, but overall it’s a good place to lose some money.
For details on what’s happening on the Canberra party scene check out www.
outincanberra.com.au.

CANBERRA

Canberra After Dark


TASMANIA 16


by Lee Mylne


T
T
asmania is a place of wild beauty colored by a tragic
past. Separated from the rest of Australia by Bass
Strait, this island state has forged its own, not always
smooth, path. Its isolation has preserved much of its
wilderness, despite the worst efforts of man to spoil it
at times.

Some of the environmental issues Tasmanians (and the rest of Australia)
are grappling with right now include the possible extinction of Tasmanian
devils due to a spreading facial-tumor disease, reports of introduced
foxes, and a proposed pulp mill that will pump vast quantities of effluent
into Bass Strait. You will also not, despite local legend, run into any Tasmanian
tigers here.

Tasmania’s history is rocky as well. Tasmania made its mark as a dumping
ground for British convicts, who were often transported for petty
crimes. The brutal system of control, still evident in the ruins at Port
Arthur and elsewhere, spilled over into persecution of the native population.
The last full-blooded Tasmanian Aborigine died in 1876, 15 years
after the last convict transportation.

Despite its history, Tasmania is a tranquil and largely unspoiled place
to visit—more than 20% of it has been declared a World Heritage area,
and nearly a third of the island is protected by national parks. The locals
are friendly and hospitable—and they have a reputation for producing
some of Australia’s best food. Remains of the Aboriginal people who lived
here for thousands of years are evident in rock paintings, engravings,
stories, and the aura of spirituality that still holds in places that modern
civilization has not yet reached.

EXPLORING TASMANIA

VISITOR INFORMATION Tourism Tasmania (&1300/827 743
in Australia, or 03/6230 8235; www.discovertasmania.com.au) is the
official tourism body and operates visitor centers in more than 20 towns
throughout the state. The Tasmanian Travel and Information Centre,
20 Davey St. (at Elizabeth St.), Hobart (&1800/990 440 in Australia,
or 03/6230 8233; www.hobarttravelcentre.com.au) can arrange
travel passes, ferry and bus tickets, car rentals, cruises, and accommodations.
It is open weekdays 8:30am to 5:30pm, and 9am to 5pm weekends
and public holidays (closed Christmas Day).


TASMANIA

Exploring Tasmania

16 WHEN TO GO The best time to visit Tasmania is between October and April,
when the weather is at its best. By May, nights are getting cold, days are getting
shorter, and the deciduous trees are starting to turn golden. Winters (June–Aug),
especially in the high country, can be quite harsh—though that’s the best time to
curl up in front of a blazing fire. The east coast is generally milder than the west
coast, which is buffeted by the “Roaring 40s”—the winds that blow across the ocean
and the 40-degree meridian from as far away as Argentina.
The busy season for tourism runs December through February, as well as during
public- and school-holiday periods. Unlike the rest of Australia, Tasmanian schools
have three terms. Term dates are from the second week in February to the last week
in May, the third week in June to the first week in September, and the fourth week
in September to the first or second week in December.

GETTING THERE The quickest way to get to Tasmania is by air. Qantas (&13
13 13 in Australia; www.qantas.com) flies from Sydney and Melbourne to Hobart
and Launceston. Virgin Blue (& 13 67 89 in Australia; www.virginblue.com.au)
flies from Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane, Canberra and Adelaide to Hobart and from
Melbourne, Brisbane, and Sydney to Launceston. Jetstar (&13 15 38 in Australia;
www.jetstar.com.au) flies to Hobart from Sydney and Melbourne, and to Launceston
from Brisbane, Melbourne and Sydney. Tiger Airways (& 03/9335 3033; www.
tigerairways.com.au) flies to Launceston and Hobart from Melbourne and to Hobart
from Adelaide. Regional Express (&13 17 13 in Australia or 02/6393 5550; www.
regionalexpress.com.au) flies from Melbourne to Burnie in the state’s north.

Two high-speed ferry services connect Melbourne and Tasmania. The Spirit of
Tasmania I and II can each carry 1,400 passengers as well as cars. They make the
crossing from Melbourne’s Station Pier to Tasmania’s Devonport (on the north
coast) in around 10 hours. The ferries leave both Melbourne and Devonport at
7:30pm and arrive at around 6am. During peak times, there’s also day service leaving
both ports at 9am and arriving at 6pm. Prices are based on “off-peak” and “peak”
times: Off-peak season is from mid-April to mid-December and again from around
January 24 to mid-April; peak season is roughly mid-December to around January
23, and from mid-April to mid-May (seasons change slightly each year). A one-way
day seat costs A$95 to A$175 for adults and A$38 to A$105 for children aged 3 to

18. Reclining seats for the overnight crossing cost A$110 to A$194 adults and A$44
to A$116 for kids. Twin cabins cost A$179 to A$299 for adults and A$71 to A$179
for children. Deluxe cabins cost A$280 to A$440 for adults and kids. Four-berth
cabins cost from A$148 to A$249 for adults and A$59 to A$155 for kids depending
Tasmania’s Tricky Roads
Driving in Tasmania can be dangerous;
there are more accidents involving
tourists on Tasmania’s roads than anywhere
else in Australia. Many roads are
narrow, and bends can be tight, especially
in the mountainous inland
regions, where you may also come
across black ice early in the morning or
at anytime in winter. Marsupials are
also common around dusk, and swerving
to avoid them has caused countless
crashes. In fact, you may be shocked by
the amount of roadkill you will see
here.


Tasmania


16
1
1
1
B a s s S t r a i t
INDIAN
OCEAN
Tasman Sea
SOUTH WEST
SOUTH WESTSOUTH WESTSOUTH WEST
NATIONAL PARK
NATIONAL PARKNATIONAL PARKNATIONAL PARK
CRADLE MOUNTAIN/LAKE
CRADLE MOUNTAIN/LAKECRADLE MOUNTAIN/LAKECRADLE MOUNTAIN/LAKE
ST. CLAIR NATIONAL PARK
ST. CLAIR NATIONAL PARKST. CLAIR NATIONAL PARKST. CLAIR NATIONAL PARK
FRANKLIN AND GORDON WILD
FRANKLIN AND GORDON WILDFRANKLIN AND GORDON WILDFRANKLIN AND GORDON WILD
RIVERS NATIONAL PARK
RIVERS NATIONAL PARKRIVERS NATIONAL PARKRIVERS NATIONAL PARK
MT. FIELD
MT. FIELDMT. FIELDMT. FIELD
NATIONAL PARK
NATIONAL PARKNATIONAL PARKNATIONAL PARK
ROCKY CAPE
ROCKY CAPEROCKY CAPEROCKY CAPE
NATIONAL PARK
NATIONAL PARKNATIONAL PARKNATIONAL PARK
NARAWNTAPU
NARAWNTAPUNARAWNTAPUNARAWNTAPU
NATIONAL PARK
NATIONAL PARKNATIONAL PARKNATIONAL PARK
MOUNT WILLIAM
MOUNT WILLIAMMOUNT WILLIAMMOUNT WILLIAM
NATIONAL PARK
NATIONAL PARKNATIONAL PARKNATIONAL PARK
To Melbourne
To MelbourneTo MelbourneTo Melbourne
Hobart
HobartHobartHobart
Launceston
LauncestonLauncestonLaunceston
Zeehan
ZeehanZeehanZeehan
Strahan
StrahanStrahanStrahan
Queenstown
QueenstownQueenstownQueenstown
Port Arthur
Port ArthurPort ArthurPort Arthur
Huonville
HuonvilleHuonvilleHuonville
George Town
George TownGeorge TownGeorge Town
St. Helens
St. HelensSt. HelensSt. Helens
Marrawah
MarrawahMarrawahMarrawah
Smithton
SmithtonSmithtonSmithton
Stanley
StanleyStanleyStanley
Somerset
SomersetSomersetSomerset
Burnie
BurnieBurnieBurnieBurnieBurnie
Ulverstone
UlverstoneUlverstoneUlverstone
Latrobe
LatrobeLatrobeLatrobe
Bridport
BridportBridportBridport
Scottsdale
ScottsdaleScottsdaleScottsdale
St. Marys
St. MarysSt. MarysSt. Marys
Perth
PerthPerthPerth
Swansea
SwanseaSwanseaSwansea
Campbell
CampbellCampbellCampbell
Town
TownTownTown
Sorell
SorellSorellSorell
New Norfolk
New NorfolkNew NorfolkNew Norfolk
Kingston
KingstonKingstonKingston
Southport
SouthportSouthportSouthport
Bronte
BronteBronteBronte
Tullah
TullahTullahTullah
Savage
SavageSavageSavage
River
RiverRiverRiver
Devonport
DevonportDevonportDevonport
Ross
RossRossRoss
Coles
ColesColesColes
Bay
BayBayBay
Bothwell
BothwellBothwellBothwell
Oatlands
OatlandsOatlandsOatlands
Bicheno
BichenoBichenoBicheno
Deloraine
DeloraineDeloraineDeloraine
Hunter
HunterHunterHunter
I.
I.I.I.
Three Hummock I.
Three Hummock I.Three Hummock I.Three Hummock I.
Robbins I.
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Bonorong Wildlife Park 4
Cataract Gorge 1
Freycinet National Park 3
Royal Tasmanian Botanical Gardens 5
Tasmanian Devil Conservation Park 6
Trowunna Wildlife Park 2
A U S T R A L I AAUSTRALIA
AUSTRALIAAUSTRALIA
Canberra
CanberraCanberraCanberra
Perth
PerthPerthPerth
Brisbane
BrisbaneBrisbaneBrisbane
Darwin
DarwinDarwinDarwin
Sydney
SydneySydneySydney
TASMANIA
TASMANIATASMANIATASMANIA


TASMANIA

Exploring

705


TASMANIA
Exploring Tasmania A Tassie Holiday Pass costs A$60 and
allows entry for a car and up to 8 pas-
sengers to Tasmania’s national parks
for 8 weeks. Pedestrians, cyclists,
motorcyclists, and coach passengers
pay A$30 for 8 weeks. Occasional users
can buy a 24-hour pass for A$24 per
car; walkers, cyclists, motorcyclists, and
coach passengers pay A$12 per day.
Passes are available at all major parks
and Tasmanian visitor centers. For more
information, contact the Parks and
Wildlife Service (&03/6233 2621;
www.parks.tas.gov.au).
National Park Entry Fees National Park Entry Fees
on the season and whether you have a porthole. Transporting a standard car costs
A$79 to A$89, depending on size, year-round.

Make reservations for any of the ferries through TT-Line (&1800/634 906 in
Australia, or 03/6421 7209; www.spiritoftasmania.com.au). Special offers are regularly
available. Tasmanian Redline Coaches (see below) connect with each ferry
and transfer passengers to Launceston and Hobart.

GETTING AROUND The regional airline Tasair (& 03/6427 9777; www.
tasair.com.au) flies between Hobart and Devonport and Burnie (Wynyard Airport)
and operates services to King Island from Burnie and Devonport. It also operates a
range of aerial sightseeing tours, as does Par Avion (&1800/144 460 in Australia
or 03/6248 5390; www.paravion.com.au), which concentrates on the southwest
World Heritage areas of the state.

Tasmanian Redline Coaches (& 1300/360 000 in Australia, or 03/6336
1446; www.redlinecoaches.com.au) and Tassielink (& 1300/300 520 in Australia,
or 03/6230 8900; www.tigerline.com.au) operate coach service statewide and
offer a series of coach tours to major places of interest. Metro Tas (& 13 22 01
in Australia or 03/6233 4232; www.metrotas.com.au) runs bus services in and
around Hobart, Launceston, and Burnie.

The cheapest way to get around by coach is to buy a travel pass. The Tassielink
Explorer Pass, which covers all Tassielink routes, comes in four categories: A 7-day
pass good for travel within 10 days is A$208; a 10-day pass for travel in 15 days is
A$248; a 14-day pass for travel in 20 days is A$286; a 21-day pass for travel in 30
days is A$329. Kids’ passes are half-price. Redline Coaches has a Tassie Pass which
allows unlimited travel on main route services for A$135 for 7 days, A$160 for 10
days, A$185 for 14 days or A$219 for 21 days.

Driving a car from Devonport on the north coast to Hobart on the south coast
takes less than 4 hours. From Hobart to Strahan on the west coast also takes around
4 hours, while the journey from Launceston to Hobart takes about 2 hours. The
Royal Automobile Club of Tasmania, Murray and Patrick streets, Hobart (&13
27 22 in Australia or 03/6232 6300), can supply maps.

TOUR OPERATORS Dozens of operators run organized hiking, horse-trekking,
sailing, caving, fishing, bushwalking, diving, cycling, rafting, climbing, kayaking, and
canoeing trips.

One of the best operators is Tasmania Adventure Tours (&1300/654 604 in
Australia, or 08/8132 8230; www.adventuretours.com.au). It offers a 3-day East
Coast Explorer tour from Devonport, taking in Launceston, Freycinet National Park,


and Port Arthur, before finishing in Hobart. The tour costs A$470 to A$770 depend-16

ing on accommodations. Other tours are available.

Peregrine Adventures (& 1300/791 485 in Australia; www.peregrine
adventures.com) runs several trips in Tasmania, including a 5-day Franklin River
rafting adventure and others that include kayaking and hiking. Another good operator
is the Roaring 40s Wilderness Tours (& 03/6267 5000; www.roaring40skayaking.
com.au), which offers kayaking expeditions for 3 or 7 days, as well as other
tours. Tasmanian Expeditions, in Launceston (&1300/666 856 in Australia, or
03/6339 3999; www.tasmanianexpeditions.com.au), runs a range of cycling, trekking,
rafting, rock-climbing, and sea-kayaking trips around the island, departing from
either Hobart or Launceston.

HOBART

198km (123 miles) S of Launceston

Tasmania’s capital (pop. 120,000), set on the Derwent River, is worth visiting for a
couple of days. Hobart’s main features are its wonderful harbor (the city’s focal
point) and the colonial cottages that line the narrow lanes of Battery Point. At the
waterfront, picturesque Salamanca Place bursts with galleries, pubs, cafes, and an
excellent market on Saturdays. Europeans settled in Hobart in 1804, a year after
Tasmania’s first colony was set up at Risdon (10km/61.4 miles up the Derwent River),
making it Australia’s second oldest city after Sydney. Hobart is the southernmost
Australian state capital and is closer to the Antarctic coast than it is to Perth in
Western Australia; navigators, whalers, and explorers have long regarded it as the
gateway to the south.

Essentials

GETTING THERE The trip from the airport to the city center takes about 20
minutes and costs about A$40 by taxi. The Airporter Shuttle Bus (&1300/385
511 in Australia) meets planes and delivers passengers to hotels in the city and
farther afield for A$15 one-way or A$25 round-trip to the city center for adults and
A$7.50 each way for kids. Bookings

TASMANIA

Hobart

It’s relatively hard to find public Web
access in Hobart. One of the few Inter-
net cafes is Drifters Internet Cafe, in
Salamanca Galleria, Shop 9/33, Sala-
manca Place (&03/6224 6286). They
charge A$1 for 10 minutes or A$5 per
half-hour.
Staying Connected
are essential, and if you are departing
Hobart on an early flight (6, 6:30, or
7:25am), you need to make a booking
by 8pm the previous evening.

Car- and camper-rental offices at
the airport include Avis (&03/6248
5424), Budget (& 1300/362 848
in Australia, or 03/6248 5333),
Europcar (& 1800/030 118 in
Australia or 03/6248 5849), and

Thrifty (& 1300/367 227 in Australia
or 03/6248 5678). Cars cost around A$55 for 1 day, A$50 per day for 2 days,
A$45 per day for 4 days, and A$40 per day for a week or more. You might find even
better bargains in town, with lower-priced rental companies such as Lo-Cost Auto
Rent (&03/6231 0550) and Rent-a-Bug (&03/6231 0300).


TASMANIA
HobartThe Sydney-to-Hobart Yacht Race,
starting in Sydney on December 26, fills
the Constitution Dock Marina and har-
bor area close to overflowing with
spectators and partygoers when the
yachts turn up in Tasmania. The race
takes anywhere from 2 to 4 days, and
the sailors and fans stay on to celebrate
New Year’s Eve. Food and wine lovers
indulge themselves after the race dur-
ing the Hobart Summer Festival, which
starts on December 28.
Hello, Sailor! Hello, Sailor!
VISITOR INFORMATION Information is available from the Tasmanian
Travel and Information Centre, 20 Davey St. at Elizabeth Street (& 03/6230
8233; www.hobarttravelcentre.com.au). It’s open Monday through Friday from
8:30am to 5:30pm, weekends and public holidays from 9am to 5pm (closed Christmas
Day). You can pick up information on the state’s national parks at the Parks &
Wildlife Service, 134 Macquarie St. (&1300/135 513).

CITY LAYOUT Hobart straddles the Derwent River on the south coast of Tasmania.
Salamanca Place and nearby Battery Point abut Sullivan’s Cove, home to
hundreds of yachts. The row of sandstone warehouses that dominate Salamanca
Place date to the city’s heyday as a whaling base in the 1830s. Behind Princes Wharf,
Battery Point is the city’s historic district, which in colonial times was the home of
sailors, fishermen, whalers, coopers, merchants, shipwrights, and master mariners.
The open ocean is about 50km (31 miles) down the river, though the Derwent empties
into Storm Bay, just 20km (12 miles) downstream. The central business district
is on the west side of the water, with the main thoroughfares—Campbell, Argyle,
Elizabeth, Murray, and Harrington streets—sloping down to the busy harbor.
The Tasman Bridge and regular passenger ferries cross the Derwent River. Set back
from and overlooking the city is 1,270m-tall (4,166-ft.) Mount Wellington.

GETTING AROUND Central Hobart is very small, and most of the attractions
are in easy walking distance. Metro Tasmania (& 03/6233 4232 or 13 22 01;
www.metrotas.com.au) operates public buses throughout the city and suburban
areas. The buses operate on an electronic Green Card system, or you can just buy a
ticket on board. Single tickets cost from A$2.40. Day Rover tickets are good after
9am daily and cost A$4.50.

Exploring the City & Environs

Simply strolling around the harbor and popping into the shops at Salamanca Place
can keep you nicely occupied, but don’t miss the lovely colonial stone cottages of
Battery Point. This area got its name from a battery of guns set up on the promontory
in 1818 to defend the town against potential invaders (particularly the French).
Today, there are tearooms, antiques shops, restaurants, and atmospheric pubs interspersed
between grand dwellings. One of the houses worth looking into is Narryna
Heritage Museum, 103 Hampden Rd. (&03/6234 2791), which depicts the life
of upper-class pioneers. It’s open Tuesday through Friday from 10:30am to 5pm and
Saturday and Sunday from 2 to 5pm (closed Anzac Day, Good Friday, Christmas Day,
and all of July). Admission is A$6 for adults and A$3 for children, or A$12 for a family.
Also in this area is the Maritime Museum of Tasmania , 16 Argyle St. at Davey


Hobart


16
TASMANIA
Hobart
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Royal
Argyle St.
Campbell St.
Elizabeth St.
Melville St.
Liverpool St.
Collins St.
Macquarie St.
Davey St.
Evans St.Hunter St.
Market Pl.
Mall
Murray St.
Harrington St.
Despard St.
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ATTRACTIONS
Maritime Museum
of T asmania 18
Narryna Heritage
Museum 17
T asmanian Museum and
Art G allery 4
T asmanian School of Arts 8
(Accommodations cont.)
W r es t Point Casino 9
Z er o Da v e y 5
DINING
Cumquat on Crit erion 3
Drunk en A dmir al
R es taur ant 6
T he Point R e v olving
R es taur ant 9
Smolt 15
5
10
13
14
9
9
6
3
17
18
2
12
4
8
11
7
ACCOMMODATIONS
A delphi C ourt YHA Hot el 1
C entr al City Backpack ers 11
Cus t oms House Hot el 12
Henry Jones Art Hot el 7
T he Islingt on 16
T he L odge on Elizabeth 2
Mac quarie Manor 13
Mont gomery's Priv at e
Hot el & YHA 10
Salamanca Inn 14
1
16
15
N
1/8 mi0
0 1/8 km
AUSTRALIAA U S T R A L I AAUSTRALIA
CanberraCanberraPerthPerthBrisbaneBrisbaneDarwinDarwinSydneySydneyCanberra
Perth
Brisbane
Darwin
Sydney
MelbourneMelbourneMelbourne
HobartHobartHobart
709


16 Street (& 03/6234 1427; www.maritimetas.org), one of the best museums of its

TASMANIA

Hobart

type in Australia. It’s open daily (except Good Friday and Christmas Day) from 9am
to 5pm; admission is A$7 for adults, A$4 for children 13 to 18, free for children 12
and under, or A$16 for families. Guided tours cost A$12; bookings are essential.

Hobart Historic Tours (&03/6230 8233 or 03/6278 3338; www.hobarthistoric
tours.com.au) runs a fascinating 90-minute walking tour of Hobart. It departs at
9:30am from outside the Tasmanian Travel and Information Centre (see above) on
Tuesdays, Thursdays, Saturdays, and Sundays. A Historic Pub Tour (not recommended
for children), departing at 5pm from St David’s Cathedral (Murray St.) on
Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays, takes you to two waterfront pubs and will enthrall
you with stories of alcohol-fueled shenanigans. You even get to meet some shady actorcharacters.
The company also runs a Battery Point Walk past small artisans’ cottages
and grand houses. It departs at 11:30am on Saturdays from Kelly’s Steps in Salamanca
Place. All tours run between October 1 and April 30, and cost A$30 for adults, A$14
for kids ages 8 to 16, A$70 families of four. Kids under 8 are free.

Grayline (& 1300/858 687 in Australia; www.grayline.com.au) offers a range
of sightseeing tours of Hobart and Mount Wellington by coach. A 3-hour tour costs
A$40 for adults and A$20 for kids.

For magnificent views over Hobart and across a fair-size chunk of Tasmania, drive
to the Pinnacle on top of Mount Wellington, about 40 minutes from the city center.
Take a warm coat; the wind in this alpine area can bite. An extensive network of
walking trails offers good hiking. You can order a copy of the Wellington Park Recreation
Map and Notes and other day walk maps for A$10 or less online from Tasmap
(www.tasmap.tas.gov.au). The website also has other free maps for download,
including street maps of Hobart and Launceston.

THE TOP ATTRACTIONS
Bonorong Wildlife Park


Tasmanian devils and wallabies are the
main attractions at Bonorong (it means “native companion”). Most of the animals
have been rescued after injury, and owner Greg Irons is passionate about saving and
conserving indigenous creatures. You’ll also find snakes, koalas, echidnas, and wombats
at this park, which has been running since 1981 but is undergoing a revamp.
Koala cuddling isn’t allowed in Tasmania, but it’s possible to stroke one. Tour times
are 11:30am and 2pm daily. Exclusive night tours (min 2 people) to see the animals
when they are most active are run by Greg on demand, and are highly recommended.
Allow 2 hours.

593 Briggs Rd., Brighton. &03/6268 1184. www.bonorong.com.au. Admission A$16 adults, A$9 children
14 and under, A$45 family of 4. Daily 9am–5pm. Closed Dec 25. Bus to Glenorchy from the central
bus terminal in Hobart (about 10 min.); then take bus no. 125 or 126 to the park. Drive north on Rte. 1 to
Brighton; it’s about 25 min. north of Hobart and is well signposted.

Cascade Brewery Tours Cascade Premium is one of Australia’s most popular
beers. To see how this heady amber nectar is produced, head to Australia’s oldest
brewery and tag along on a 2-hour tour, which includes a stroll through the grand
old Woodstock Gardens behind the factory. The tour has lots of stairs, and there are
some dress regulations to meet (no shorts or skirts; covered flat shoes must be worn).

Cascade Rd., South Hobart. &03/6224 1117. Tours (which include tastings) A$20 adults, A$10 children
5–18, A$45 families of 4. No children 4 and under. Tours daily at 11am and 1pm. Closed public holidays.
Reservations required. Bus: 44, 46, or 49 (stop 18).


16
The Female Factory Historic Site Unless you are really into convict history,
you may wish to save yourself for Port Arthur. All that is left here are the stone walls
of this prison, a memorial garden, and little in the way of interpretation for those not
on a tour, despite its important history. The “factory” prison, where women worked
at spinning, washing, and sewing, operated from 1828 to 1856, housing up to 1,200
women and children. After it ceased operation as a female factory, the institution
continued as a jail until 1877. Again, make sure you time your visit to take a guided
tour or you won’t get much from your visit. Another option besides a tour is “Morning
Tea with the Matron,” which you must book 24 hours in advance, on Monday,
Wednesday, and Friday at 10:30am for A$12 per person.

16 Degraves St., South Hobart. &03/6223 1559. Fax 03/6223 1556. www.femalefactory.com.au. Tours
A$12 adults, A$5 children, A$28 families of 4. Mon–Fri 9am–5pm. Tours Dec–Apr Mon–Fri 9:30am and
2pm; May–Nov Mon–Fri 9:30am only. Closed public holidays. Bookings essential. Bus: 44, 46, 47, or 49
from Franklin Square in the city to South Hobart and Cascade Rd. (stop 14 or 16).

MONA at Moorilla


It’s hard to put a label on MONA, which consists of
a winery, a microbrewery, a restaurant (The Source; see p. 717), and stunning
accommodations (the MONA Pavilions; see p. 714). But the best part of MONA at
Moorilla may be the opening (scheduled for January 2011) of its namesake: the
Museum of Old and New Art, Australia’s largest privately owned art gallery. Owner
David Walsh promises to “shock and offend,” so daring and provocative will it be.
But the museum also aims to challenge, inform, and entertain with a collection that
ranges from antiquities from Egypt, Greece, Italy, Africa, and Mesoamerica to contemporary
art, including Australian modernism and contemporary Australian, British,
European, and American art.

Moorilla Estate, 655 Main Rd., Berriedale. &03/6277 9900. Fax 03/6275 0588. www.mona.net.au.
Free entry to the permanent collection.

Royal Tasmanian Botanical Gardens


Established in 1818, these gardens
are known for English-style plant and tree layouts—including a great conifer collection—
a superb Japanese garden, and seasonal blooming plants. A busy road nearby
can disturb the peaceful atmosphere. One-hour guided tours by volunteers are run
regularly and cost A$5. A restaurant provides lunch and teas. To walk here from the
city center, partly along a pleasant country lane known as Soldier’s Walk, takes
around 40 minutes, or you can use the cycle track or arrive by ferry. There are maps
of the gardens at each entrance, or visitor guides and self-guided tour brochures are
available at the Visitor Centre, which is near the entrance on Lower Domain Road.
Queens Domain, near Government House. &03/6236 3076. www.rtbg.tas.gov.au. Free admission.
Oct–Mar daily 8am–6:30pm; May–Aug daily 8am–5pm; Apr and Sept daily 8am–5:30pm. Bus: 17 from
the GPO.

Tahune Airwalk A 2-hour drive from Hobart, the Airwalk is a lofted treetop
walkway situated in the Tahune Forest Reserve, overlooking the Huon and Picton
rivers. You can take the stairs to the start of the walk, or wait for a shuttle bus that
runs by every hour. Once on the elevated cantilevered steel walkway—which
extends 500m (1,640 ft.) out over the forest—you are 48m (158 ft.) above the river.
The whole thing allows a close-up view of rare species, some found only in Tasmania,
such as King Billy and Celery Top pines, myrtle, beech, blackwood, and sassafras.
Other attractions in the forest include the Huon Pine Walk and a couple of

TASMANIA

Hobart

711


16 swinging bridges over the Picton River. As the forest and facilities are run by Forestry

TASMANIA

Hobart

Tasmania (a private enterprise), your tour is likely to involve some subtle propaganda.
There’s a good cafe here before you head off again.

Arve Rd. Geeveston (29km/18 miles west of the town). &03/6295 7177. www.forestrytas.com.au.
Admission A$26. Daily 10am–5pm.

Tasmanian Museum and Art Gallery


Come here to find out more about
Tasmania’s Aboriginal heritage, its history since settlement, and the island’s wildlife.
Traveling exhibitions are mounted from time to time, but always on display are
colonial-era paintings, including an impressive collection of works by Tom Roberts
and several convict artists. The pride of the collection is the historically significant
The Conciliation, by Benjamin Duttereau. You can also find out about the fate of the
Tasmanian tiger and see archival film of this lost treasure. Free 50-minute guided
tours are run Wednesday to Sunday at 2:30pm (for bookings, call & 03/6211
4189).
40 Macquarie St. &03/6211 4177 or 03/6211 4114 for recorded information. www.tmag.tas.gov.au. Free
admission. Daily 10am–5pm. Closed Good Friday, Anzac Day, and Christmas Day.

CRUISES

Navigators, Murray Street Pier (&03/6223 1914; www.navigators.net.au), offers
cruises of the Upper Harbour and River Derwent daily for visitors wanting to take
the scenic route to the MONA and Moorilla estate (see p. 711). Check the website
for up-to-date details. The company also runs cruises to Port Arthur.

The Bruny Wildlife Adventure cruise (& 1300/137 919 in Australia; www.
brunywildlifeadventure.com.au) leaves Brooke Street Pier at 8:30am, returning at
4:30pm. A 45-minute cruise takes you to Bruny Island, where you then take a bus
to Adventure Bay and transfer to a smaller, faster expedition boat for 48 people.
Then the “adventure” part of the day starts, with a 3-hour spin along the coastline to
a seal colony and a memorable (but sometimes wet; warm shower-proof coats are
provided) foray into the wild Southern Ocean. On returning to the bus, you are
delivered to a scenic setting for an elegantly boxed lunch (with Tassie wine), before
being picked up by the cruise boat to return to Hobart. It’s a pleasant day out, but
for the hours spent, serious wildlife fans might be disappointed. The trip costs
A$185 adults, A$110 children 4 to 14. It runs daily from December to March; Fridays,
Sundays, and Mondays only in May and Oct; Mondays, Wednesdays, Fridays,
Saturdays, and Sundays only in April and November; and Sundays only from June to
September.

THE SHOPPING SCENE

If you are in Hobart on a Saturday, don’t miss the Salamanca Market , in Salamanca
Place—it’s one of the best markets in Australia. Some 200 stalls offer everything
from fruit and vegetables to crafts made from pottery, glass, and native woods.
The market is open from 8:30am to 3pm.

Salamanca Place has plenty of crafts shops that are worth exploring, though the
prices sometimes reflect the fashionable area. Pop into the Tasmania Shop & Gallery,
65 Salamanca Place (& 03/6223 5022; www.tasmaniashopgallery.com.au).
This is a cut above your normal souvenir shop, offering innovative and interesting
mementos and artworks by Tasmanian artists and designers, including glassware,
textiles, jewelry, and sculptures.


16
TASMANIA
Hobart
The best bookshop in town is a beauty;
it sells a large range of new and sec-
ondhand books, many relating to Tas-
mania. Find the Hobart Bookshop at 22
Salamanca Sq. (&03/6223 1803). For
some good reading on Tasmania,
among my favorites is In Tasmania, by
Nicholas Shakespeare, a blend of Tas-
mania’s history and future and the
author’s discovery of his own convict
heritage. For a different take on convict
history, Closing Hell’s Gates: The Death
of a Convict Station, by Tasmanian
writer Hamish Maxwell-Stewart gives an
insight into life on the notorious Sarah
Island in Macquarie Harbour. Ronnie,
Tasmanian Songman, by Aboriginal
elder Ronnie Summers, tells the story
of growing up on Cape Barren Island
and a life sharing the traditions of Cape
Barren music (it comes with a music
CD). For those interested in nature,
Where to See Wildlife in Tasmania by
Dave Watts and Cathie Plowman is an
easy to use full-color guide to spotting
Tasmania’s unique fauna.
Book Ends
There are plenty of other interesting shops and small galleries here and in the
surrounding streets. On Hunter Street, on the other side of the marina from Salamanca
Place and next to the Henry Jones Art Hotel, you will find Art Mob
(&03/6236 9200; www.artmob.com.au), where you can buy Aboriginal fine art at
reasonable prices. Director Euan Hills will happily give advice on what you are looking
at, without pressure to buy, and will also impart other tips for your stay in Hobart.
The gallery specializes in works by Tasmanian Aboriginal artists, including paintings,
prints, jewelry, and baskets.

Hours for most stores are Monday through Thursday from 9am to 6pm, Friday
from 9am to 9pm, and Saturday from 9am to noon (though some are open all day).

Where to Stay

VERY EXPENSIVE
The Henry Jones Art Hotel


One of Australia’s most unique and interesting
hotels, the Henry Jones takes its name from one of Hobart’s most successful
pioneering entrepreneurs. Henry Jones’s name, and that of his IXL brand of jam, is
still on the factory building that became Australia’s first dedicated art hotel. The
walls of this five-star hotel are hung with more than 250 works, in changing exhibitions,
often by young emerging Tasmanian artists, many from the Tasmanian School
of Arts (next door). Guest rooms are also works of art in themselves, reflecting Australia’s
early trade with China and India in an eclectic mix of modern and historic.
Sandstone walls abut ultramodern glass and stainless steel bathrooms. (All but standard
rooms have double spa tubs.) Every room has a view, either of the harbor or the
hotel’s magnificent glass atrium. I’ve stayed here several times, and so far my favorite
is the spacious Art Installation Suite, which has a small balcony.
22 Hunter St., Hobart, TAS 7000. &1300/665 581 in Australia or 03/6210 7700. Fax 03/6331 6393.
www.thehenryjones.com. 50 units. A$240–A$385 double; A$330–A$405 double deluxe spa room;
A$510–A$950 double suites. Extra person or crib A$55. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: Restaurant;
bar; concierge; access to nearby health club; room service. In room: A/C, TV/DVD, CD player,
hair dryer, Internet (A$7.50 per 30 min. to A$17 per day), kitchen (some suites only), minibar.

713


16 The Islington


This luxury boutique hotel, just 10 minutes’ walk from the

TASMANIA

Hobart

city center, may make you feel as if you are staying in someone’s home. Someone
wealthy. The Islington is lavishly but tastefully decorated with fine artworks and
antiques, its contemporary extension (with soaring glass walls and ceilings, and
views of Mount Wellington) blending beautifully with the original 1847 Regencystyle
building (one of the first in Hobart’s “dress circle” area). At the end of a busy
day’s sightseeing there’s nothing better than a long soak in the generous bathtub, and
sinking into an “Islington Angel,” a king-size bed custom-made in Tasmania, for a
fabulous night’s sleep.

321 Davey St., Hobart, TAS 7000. &1800/703 006 in Australia, or 03/6220 2123. Fax 03/6220 2124.
www.islingtonhotel.com. 11 units. A$300–A$550 double including breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking.
No children 15 and under. Amenities: Restaurant (dining on request); bar (honor system); airport
transfers; Wi-Fi (free). In room: A/C, TV/DVD w/pay movies and movie library, CD player w/CD library,
hair dryer, Internet (free), minibar.

The MONA Pavilions


Four new pavilions opened here in late 2009, each
with state-of-the-art electronics (wireless touch panels control temperature, audiovisual
components, lighting, blinds, and more) and interesting artworks. The new
pavilions are named for noted architects, with the four original pavilions named after
Australian modernist painters. All sit high above the banks of the Derwent Estuary,
with large balconies overlooking the water. Antiquities and artworks from owner
David Walsh’s private collection are included in the decor of each pavilion. Each of
the one- or two-bedroom pavilions has a private cellar stocked with Moorilla wines
and Moo Brew beer from the estate. You can arrive by private boat or on the fast
catamaran from Hobart. MONA is about 15 minutes’ drive from the city center, but
the river is a more appealing way to travel.
655 Main Rd., Berriedale. &03/6277 9900. Fax 03/6275 0588. www.mona.net.au. 8 units. A$490–
A$950 double including breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; gym; pool;
room service; sauna. In room: A/C, TV, CD player, hair dryer, kitchen, Wi-Fi (free).

EXPENSIVE
Macquarie Manor


As soon as you walk into this classic colonial-style
manor, you’ll know you want to stay. Macquarie Manor was built in 1875 as a surgeon’s
operating office and residence. Extra rooms were added in 1950. Thick carpets
and double-glazed windows keep the place very quiet, even though it’s on the
main road, 2 blocks from the central bus terminal. Rooms, which vary enormously
and include single rooms, are comfortable and elegantly furnished. One room is
suitable for people with disabilities. Check out the delightful dining room and the
drawing room complete with old couches and a grand piano. Smoking is not
permitted.
172 Macquarie St., Hobart, TAS 7000. &03/6224 4999. Fax 03/6224 4333. www.macmanor.com.au.
18 units, most with shower only. A$160 single; A$200 double; A$275 Heritage Suite; A$300 Macquarie
Suite. Extra person A$50. Rates include full breakfast. Sat–Sun room-only rate of A$170 available. AE,
DC, MC, V. Free parking. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, Internet (free), minibar.

Salamanca Inn Conveniently located on the edge of the central business district
and toward the waterfront near Battery Point, Salamanca Inn features modern and
pleasant suites and apartments. They have queen- or king-size beds, leather
couches, Tasmanian oak furniture, galley-style kitchens, and spacious living areas.
The more expensive suites are a bit plusher. There’s a rooftop indoor pool.


16
10 Gladstone St., Hobart, TAS 7000. &1800/030 944 in Australia or 03/6223 3300. Fax 03/6223 7167.
www.salamancainn.com.au. 68 units. A$185–A$280 double. Ask about packages. AE, DC, MC, V. Free
parking. Bus: 54B. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; babysitting; Jacuzzi; indoor pool; room service. In room:
TV w/free in-house movies, hair dryer, kitchenette, minibar, Wi-Fi (A$5.50 per hr.).

Wrest Point


This Hobart icon, built in 1973, launched Australia’s annual A$2billion
casino industry. Beside the Derwent River, 3km (almost 2 miles) from the city
center, the casino-hotel complex looks out across the harbor and the city and up to
Mount Wellington. All rooms feature Tasmanian oak furniture and plush carpets,
and more expensive units have exceptional views. While it may be a little out of the
city center (though it’s certainly walkable), the views make it a worthwhile choice.
The hotel’s signature restaurant, the Point Revolving Restaurant, is another icon.
It’s open for dinner from 6:30pm every night, and for lunch on Fridays from noon.
410 Sandy Bay Rd., Sandy Bay, TAS 7005. &1800/420 155 in Australia, or 03/6225 7016. www.pure
tasmania.com.au. 197 units. A$105-A$204 double; A$220–A$264 suite. Extra adult A$35. Children 4
and under stay free in parent’s room using existing bedding. Free crib. AE, DC, MC, V. Free valet parking.
Bus: Busy Bee route 54 or 55 from Franklin Sq., Macquarie St., to stop 15. Amenities: 4 restaurants; 7
bars; free airport transfers; babysitting; concierge; 9-hole putting course; health club; large indoor pool;
room service; 2 lit tennis courts; Wi-Fi (in lobby, A$10 per hr.). In room: A/C, TV w/free movies, hair
dryer, Internet (free), minibar.

Zero Davey


Opened in 2004, Zero Davey has gone for a time-warp decor
(think Austin Powers) that will appeal to some but not to others—if the word funkadelic
puts you off, don’t book the penthouse! (You could perhaps cope with one of
the studio, two-, or three-bedroom serviced apartments, but definitely not the penthouse.)
The three-bedroom Zero Penthouse, with its psychedelic pink, orange, and
red decor, will fulfill those rock-star fantasies; the Hunter Penthouse is a bit more
restrained and has harbor views, a grand piano, and a 12-seat theater. However, you
can’t fault the hotel’s waterfront location, and the apartments are fresh, contemporary,
and functional. Some studios have balconies and Jacuzzis. It’s all fun and, yes, funky.
15 Hunter St., Hobart, TAS 7000. &1300/733 422 in Australia, or 03/6270 1444. Fax 03/6270 1400.
www.escapesresorts.com.au. 34 units. A$280–A$340 studio double; A$450–A$600 apt. MC, V. Free
parking. Amenities: Exercise room; sauna. In room: A/C, TV/VCR, hair dryer, kitchen, minibar, Wi-Fi
(A10. per min. or A$12 per day).

MODERATE
Customs House Hotel


You won’t find a better value than the rooms above
this historic sandstone pub overlooking the waterfront. Built in 1846, the property
offers large, colonial-style rooms, seven of which look across at the water. Some of
the other rooms look across Parliament House and its gardens, and the rest are
toward the back of the hotel with no views to speak of. Downstairs, the restaurant
and public bar overlook the water. Live music is on hand downstairs between
Wednesday and Saturday nights and during the summer period, when the Sydney–
Hobart Yacht Race comes to town, it can be noisy but is central to all the action.

1 Murray St., Hobart, TAS 7000. &03/6234 6645. Fax 03/6223 8750. www.customshousehotel.com.
22 units. A$135–A$155 double; A$240 family room (sleeps 5). Extra person A$40. Rates include hot
breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking about 5 min. walk away. Amenities: Restaurant; bar. In room: A/C
(some rooms only), TV, Internet (free).

The Lodge on Elizabeth


The convict-built Lodge on Elizabeth is among the
oldest buildings in Tasmania, completed in 1829 and now listed by the National Trust.
Originally a gentleman’s residence (including, at one time, a Tasmanian premier),
TASMANIA

Hobart

715


TASMANIA
HobartThere are seven YHA hostels in Tasma-
nia. In Hobart, the best is Montgom-
ery’s Private Hotel & YHA Backpackers,
9 Argyle St. (&03/6231 2660), right in
the heart of the city, which has bunk
rooms for A$29 to A$32 and double
rooms from A$106 to A$118. Adelphi
Court YHA (&03/6228 4829) is in
North Hobart. The state YHA office is at
9 Argyle St., Hobart (&03/6234 9617;
www.yha.com.au).
Budget Sleeps Budget Sleeps
it later became the first private boys’ school in Tasmania. It’s well situated just a
12-minute walk from Salamanca Place and is surrounded by restaurants. All rooms
are decorated with antiques; many are quite romantic, with four-poster beds and
some with Jacuzzis. Complimentary drinks are served in the communal living room
in the evening. The Convict’s Cottage is a cute self-contained spa cottage, just for
two, on the grounds.

249 Elizabeth St., Hobart, TAS 7000. &03/6231 3830. Fax 03/6234 2566. www.thelodge.com.au. 13
units, some with shower only. A$120–A$170 double; A$160–A$195 convict cottage (minimum 2-night
stay). Extra person A$30. Rates include breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. No children 13 and under.
In room: TV, hair dryer.

INEXPENSIVE
Central City Backpackers


Fresh paintwork, new computers, and new beds
and mattresses have raised standards at this typical backpacker accommodation. It’s
cheap and cheerful, right in the heart of Hobart, in a classic 1870s building that
started life as the Imperial Hotel and became a backpacker hostel in 1992. You can
use your own sleeping bag or hire linen and towels for A$2 per stay. The central
shopping district is outside the door; it’s only a short walk to the harbor and a 2-minute
walk to the central bus terminal.

138 Collins St., Hobart, TAS 7000. &1800/811 507 in Australia, or 03/6224 2404. Fax 03/6224 2316.
www.centralcityhobart.com. 80 units (none with private bathroom). A$55 single room; A$69 double;
A$23–A$27 dorm bed. MC, V. Amenities: Bar (summer only); Internet (A$3 for 15 min. to A$12 for 2 hr.).
In room: No phone.

Where to Dine

Tasmania is known for its fresh seafood, including oysters, crab, crayfish, salmon,
and trout. Once cheap, in recent years prices have crept up to match or even surpass
those on the mainland. Generally, the food is of very good quality.

EXPENSIVE
Smolt


CONTEMPORARY This chic new addition to Hobart’s dining
scene is a great spot for people watching, with windows opening onto busy Salamanca
Square. Great for breakfast, a caffeine hit, lunch, or dinner, it offers modern
cuisine with Italian (pizza, risotto) and Spanish (tapas) influences. The food is
simple but imaginative, delicious and presented with flair. There’s also a good wine
list featuring selections from around Australia (heavily weighted toward Tassie) and
a couple of options from New Zealand, Spain, and Italy.

2 Salamanca Square, Hobart. &03/6224 2554. www.smolt.com.au. Reservations recommended. Main
courses A$25–A$35. AE, MC, V. Daily 9am–10pm.


16
The Source


TASMANIAN/AUSTRALIAN As you climb the stairs to this
amazing restaurant, your eyes will be drawn to the painting from which it takes its
name: The Source, by Australian artist John Olsen, is a stunning 6m (20-ft.) work set
into the ceiling directly above the central staircase. It will take your breath away. So
too will the entire experience of dining here, which promises to be delivered “with a
MONA twist” (the restaurant is part of the Museum of Old and New Art; see p. 711).
And you will be assured that seasonal and local produce (with an eye to “food miles”)
is very important here. Huge windows allow stunning views of the Derwent River.
Moorilla Estate, 655 Main Rd., Berriedale. &03/6277 9900. www.moorilla.com.au. Reservations recommended.
Main courses A$26–A$38. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily noon–2:30pm; Fri–Sat 6:30pm–late.

MODERATE
Drunken Admiral Restaurant


SEAFOOD The Drunken Admiral, on the
waterfront, is an extremely popular spot with tourists and can get raucous on busy
evenings. The main attraction to start the meal is the famous seafood chowder,
swimming with anything that was on sale at the docks that morning. The large Seafood
Platter for two (A$106) is a full plate of squid, oysters, fish, mussels, and
prawns, but there are plenty of simpler dishes on the menu, too. Try the crunchy
fried prawns or the salt-and-pepper squid.
17–19 Hunter St. &03/6234 1903. www.drunkenadmiral.com.au. Reservations required. Main courses
A$17–A$35. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 6–10:30pm.

Flathead Fish Cafe


SEAFOOD This small, unpretentious cafe is just a
short walk from the grand Islington Hotel in South Hobart. The fish is fresh (you
can buy it to cook yourself if you wish) and the staple is fish and chips, but they also
do a range of chargrilled and pan-fried fish dishes as well as vegetarian, and glutenfree
dishes. Start with Thai fish cakes; they’re delicious. Flathead is licensed and has
a great wine list featuring Tasmanian wines and local beers (including a gluten-free
beer). If you choose, you can BYO (wine only) as well.

4 Cascade Rd., South Hobart. & 03/6224 3194. Reservations recommended. Main courses A$16–
A$26. AE, DC, MC, V. Tues–Sat 10am–10:30pm; Mon 4–10:30pm. Closed Sun.

Peppermint Bay


CONTEMPORARY You’d be hard pressed to find a more
lovely setting for lunch, even in Tasmania. From Peppermint Bay’s Dining Room
restaurant, soaring cathedral ceilings and full-length windows frame water’s-edge
views of Bruny Island and the D’Entrecasteaux Channel. The menu includes fresh
Tasmanian crayfish, Bruny Island oysters, Huon ocean trout, locally grazed beef, and
more. You won’t be disappointed. The relaxed Terrace Bar (with the same views) is
another option with a more casual menu. The Providore sells fine Tasmanian fare
(think olive oil, smoked salmon, or ripe cheeses) and housewares, or you can browse
the art and craft gallery next door. Outside, a 150-year-old oak tree dominates the
gardens. Hobart Cruises (&1300/137 919 in Australia) runs 90-minute scenic
cruises to Peppermint Bay.
Channel Hwy., Woodbridge (35km from Hobart). & 03/6267 4088. www.peppermintbay.com.au.
Reservations recommended. Main courses A$16–A$30 in the Terrace Bar; A$33–A$35 in the Dining
Room. MC, V. Terrace Bar daily from noon to 3pm; Thu–Sat 5:30–8:30pm; Dining Room daily noon–3pm.

INEXPENSIVE
Cumquat on Criterion


ASIAN/AUSTRALIAN Well-known for its great
coffee, this cafe is also an excellent breakfast venue, offering everything from egg on

TASMANIA

Hobart

717


DISCOVERING bothwell

TASMANIA
HobartBothwell is a charming little town an
hour’s drive north of Hobart, with sev-
eral claims to fame. Set on the pictur-
esque Clyde River at the foothills of the
central Tasmanian highlands, the town
was settled by Scottish colonists in 1822,
with convict labour building many of the
sandstone establishments still lining the
streets today. Bothwell’s major claim to
fame is as the home of Ratho, Austra-
lia’s oldest golf course, established the
same year (&0409/595 702 mobile
phone; www.rathogolf.com). Ratho is a
public course and green fees are only
A$15.
After a round, drop into the Austral-
asian Golf Museum (&03/6259 4033)
and the local information center on Mar-
ket Place. While you’re there, pick up a
brochure that gives you a self-guided
tour of Bothwell’s many historic buildings.
And then there’s the lure of a whisky
distillery at nearby Nant Estate
(&03/6259 5790; www.nantdistillery.
option to buy a 100-liter barrel of
whisky with bespoke bottling and label-
com.au), built in 1821. Today, it offers
whisky tours, tastings, dinners, and the
is priced from A$400 to A$500 per
ing. Tours (A$20) run daily between
10am and 4pm.
For accommodations befitting such
an historic town, head straight for The
Priory Country Lodge, 2 Wentworth St.
(&03/6259 4012; www.thepriorycountry
lodge.com.au) on the edge of town.
Owner Greg Peacock has transformed
this lovely stone Tudor-style country
house (circa 1848) into a manor that’s
both stylish and comfortable. It has only
four guest rooms, but plenty of living
spaces to choose from, including a
library, hunting room, parlor, and draw-
ing room. Bedrooms are up a narrow
staircase opening into a wide central sit-
ting area, and are of similar decor, with
marble bathrooms, underfloor heating—
and a teddy bear. For those who prefer
more privacy, there are two contempo-
rary timber pavilions (one with a private
sauna) overlooking the lake. The Priory
room, including breakfast and dinner.
toast to porridge with brown sugar. On the menu for lunch and dinner you could find
Thai beef curry, laksa, a daily risotto, and chermoula-marinated fish. The desserts
can be great. Vegetarians, vegans, and those on a gluten-free diet are very well
catered to, as are carnivores.

10 Criterion St. & 03/6234 5858. Reservations recommended. Main courses A$8–A$15. No credit
cards. Mon–Fri 8am–6pm.

Hobart After Dark

Built in 1837, the 747-seat Theatre Royal, 29 Campbell St. (&03/6233 2299;
www.theatreroyal.com.au), is the oldest live theater in the country. It’s known for its
excellent acoustics and its classical Victorian decor. It is Hobart’s major stage venue.
Ticket prices vary depending on the performance.

Opened in 1829 as a tavern and a brothel frequented by whalers, Knopwood’s
Retreat, 39 Salamanca Place (&03/6223 5808), is still a raucous place to be on
Friday and Saturday evenings, when crowds cram the historic interior and spill out
onto the streets. Light lunches are popular throughout the week, and occasionally
you’ll find jazz or blues on the menu.


16
A popular drinking hole in Hobart is Irish Murphy’s, 21 Salamanca Place
(& 03/6223 1119), an atmospheric pub with stone walls and lots of dark wood.
Local bands play Sunday to Thursday nights.

If you want to tempt Lady Luck, head to the Wrest Point Casino, in the Wrest
Point Hotel, 410 Sandy Bay Rd. (&03/6225 0112), Australia’s first legal gambling
club. Smart, casual attire is required (collared shirts for men).

A Day Trip to Mount Field National Park

80km (50 miles) NW of Hobart

Mount Field National Park is one of the prettiest in Tasmania. It was proclaimed
a national park in 1916 to protect a plateau dominated by dolerite-capped mountains
(Mount Field West is the highest point at 1,417m/4,647 ft.) and dramatic glaciated
valleys (some of the lakes and tarns were formed 30,000 years ago). The most
mountainous regions support alpine moorlands of cushion plants, pineapple and
sword grass, waratahs, and giant pandani. You can get a look at these changing environments
on a 16km (10-mile) drive from the park entrance to Lake Dobson along
an unpaved and often badly rutted road, which is not suitable for conventional
vehicles in winter or after heavy rains. Wallabies, wombats, bandicoots, Tasmanian
devils, and quolls are prolific, as is the birdlife. You may see black cockatoos, green
rosellas, honeyeaters, currawongs, wedge-tailed eagles, and lyrebirds. There are
many walking trails, including one to the spectacular 45m (148-ft.) Russell Falls,
near the park’s entrance. The walk to the falls along a paved, wheelchair-accessible
track takes 15 minutes and passes ferns and forests, with some of Tasmania’s tallest
trees, swamp gums up to 85m (279 ft.) high.

GETTING THERE Mount Field National Park is just over an hour’s drive from
Hobart via New Norfolk. From Hobart, take the Brooker Highway (A10) northwest
to New Norfolk. After New Norfolk you can follow the road on either side of the
Derwent River (the A10 or B62) until you reach Westerway. From there, it is a short
drive to the clearly marked entrance to Mount Field National Park. There is an
entrance fee of A$12 per person or A$24 per car (up to eight people). Grayline
(& 1300/858 687 in Australia; www.grayline.com.au) offers a day tour from
Hobart on Sundays and Wednesdays, costing A$106 for adults and A$55 for kids
ages 4 to 14, including entrance fees to the national park and a local salmon farm.

VISITOR INFORMATION The park’s visitor center (& 03/6288 1149; www.
parks.tas.gov.au) on Lake Dobson Road has a cafe and information on walks. It’s open
daily from 8:30am to 5pm between November and April and 9am to 4pm in winter.

PORT ARTHUR


102km (63 miles) SE of Hobart

Port Arthur, on the Tasman Peninsula, is an incredibly picturesque yet haunting
place. Set on one of Australia’s prettiest harbors, it shelters the remains of Tasmania’s
largest penal colony. It’s the state’s number-one tourist destination, and you
really should plan to spend at least a day here.

From 1830 to 1877, Port Arthur was one of the harshest institutions of its type
anywhere in the world. It was built to house the most notorious prisoners, many of
whom had escaped from lesser institutions. Nearly 13,000 convicts found their way

TASMANIA

Port Arthur

719


WALKING maria island



TASMANIA

Port Arthur

Within minutes of arriving on Maria
Island, you’ll be charmed by the local
wildlife. Wombats, to be precise. When
they waddle into view, you’ll let out a
chorus of wows—a word that you will
surely overwork if you choose to visit
this lovely spot. Maria Island is about 50
minutes by ferry across Mercury Passage
from Triabunna on Tasmania’s east coast,
north of Hobart. You can take a day trip
to Darlington, the island’s only settlement,
or stay overnight in bunkhouse
accommodations in former penitentiary
cells. I recommend you take the time to
do a 4-day guided Maria Island Walk,
which takes you beyond Darlington, to
discover the true beauty of this place.

Once home to the Tyreddeme
Aboriginal people of the Oyster Bay
area, Maria Island was also a penal settlement
for up to 150 convicts from 1825
to 1832, until it was abandoned in favor
of Port Arthur. More than 600 convicts
were returned to the island from 1842 to

1850. The Darlington precinct, one of
Tasmania’s most significant historic sites,
is listed on the National Heritage Register.
The commissariat store is now an
information center.

The rest of the island is Maria Island
National Park—11,550 hectares (28,540
acres), including 1,878 hectares (4,640
acres) of marine reserve and the
7.4-hectare (18-acre) Ile des Phoques
island. The entire place is largely
untouched sandy beaches, forests,
mountains, and rugged coastline, including
the Painted Cliffs and the Fossil Cliffs
near Darlington. Wildlife is abundant—
you are almost guaranteed to see kangaroos,
wallabies, wombats, echidnas, and
rare Cape Barren Geese at close quarters.
There are no shops, private vehicles,
or houses, and the only vehicles are used
by two park rangers. Those who venture
farther afield can climb the 709m
(2,326-ft.) summit of Mount Maria or the
more achievable—if you have a head for

here, and nearly 2,000 died while incarcerated. A strip of land called Eaglehawk
Neck connects Port Arthur to the rest of Tasmania. Guards and dogs kept watch over
this narrow path, while the authorities circulated rumors that the waters around the
peninsula were shark-infested. Only a few convicts ever managed to escape, and
most of them either perished in the bush or were tracked down and hanged. Look
out for the blowhole and other coastal formations, including Tasman’s Arch, Devil’s
Kitchen, and the Tessellated Pavement, as you pass through Eaglehawk Neck.

Essentials

GETTING THERE Port Arthur is a 11.2-hour drive from Hobart on the Lyell and
Arthur highways. This scenic drive forms part of the Convict Trail Touring Route
and takes in breathtaking seascapes, rolling farmlands and villages, vineyards, and artists’
studios. On the way to Port Arthur, you might want to stop off at the historic village
of Richmond and at the Tasmanian Devil Conservation Park (see p. 722). Richmond
is 26km (16 miles) northeast of Hobart and is the site of the country’s oldest bridge
(1823), the best-preserved convict jail in Australia (1825), and several old churches,
including St. John’s Church (1836), the oldest Catholic church in the country.

Grayline (&1300/858 687 in Australia; www.grayline.com.au) offers day tours
to Port Arthur from Hobart daily (except Saturdays). The tours cost A$145 for adults


16
heights—Bishop and Clerk, with its
coastline views north to the Freycinet
Peninsula, from 599m (1,965 ft.) up.

 The guided Maria Island Walk
(&03/6234 2999; www.mariaisland
walk.com.au), leaves Hobart three times
a week from October to April. You carry
your own 7- to 10-kilogram (15–22-lb.)
pack, but other supplies are carried by
your two guides, who then whip up
amazing food and wine at the end of
the day. You will walk an easy 10 to
12km (6.25–7.5 miles) per day. Accommodation
is in comfortable beachfront
camps (tents with beds and wooden
floors), except for the final night, which
is spent in the luxury of the colonial
home of pioneer Diego Bernacchi. Dinner
there is served around the 1850s
dining table, and the house is warmed
by roaring fires. Walks cost A$2,100 per
person including all gear and meals.

To book the penitentiary, contact the
Parks and Wildlife Service on Maria

Island (&03/6257 1420; www.parks.tas.
gov.au). Bookings are not necessary to
camp, but you must pay a fee of about
A$13 per double. The ferry to Maria
Island leaves Triabunna (about 90 min.
drive from Hobart) at 9:30am and 4pm
October to mid-April, and 10:30am and
3pm mid-April to September. The ferry
departs Maria Island at 10:30am and
5pm for the return trip (11:30am and
4pm Apr–Sept). You should arrive at the
jetty 20 minutes prior to departure. The
ferry runs daily from mid-December to
mid-April, and on Monday, Wednesday,
Friday, and Sunday the rest of the
year. The ferry service is provided by

Maria Island Ferry & Eco Cruises
(&0419/746 668 mobile phone; www.
mariaislandferry.com.au). The fare is
A$50 adults, A$37 children 6 to 16, and
A$25 children ages 2 to 5 round-trip.
You can take a bike on the ferry for
A$10. You must also pay a park entry
fee of A$12 per person.

TASMANIA

Port Arthur

and A$73 for kids ages 4 to 14 and include admission fees, guided tours of Port
Arthur and the Isle of the Dead, lunch, an audio guide and a harbor cruise.

Take a cruise with Navigators (& 03/6223 1914; www.navigators.net.au), and
you will follow the sea route of convicts transported from Hobart to Port Arthur. The
all-day journey includes a 21.2-hour cruise along the coastline to Port Arthur, entrance to
the historic site, and a return by bus to Hobart. In 2010, it cost A$229 for adults, A$183
for kids, and A$700 for a family of four. The cruise runs on Sundays, departing at 8am.

Exploring the Site

The Port Arthur Historic Site


(& 1800/659 101 in Australia or 03/6251
2310; www.portarthur.org.au) is large and scattered, with around 30 19th-century
buildings. (Most of the main ones were damaged during bushfires in 1877, shortly
after the property ceased to be a penal institution.) You can tour the remains of the
church, the guard tower, a prison, and several other buildings. Don’t miss the fascinating
museum in the old lunatic asylum, which has a scale model of the prison
complex, as well as leg irons and chains.
Port Arthur’s tragic history did not finish at the end of the convict era. In 1996,
the Port Arthur Historic Site became the scene of one of Australia’s worst mass
murders, when a lone gunman killed 35 people and injured dozens more, including
tourists and staff. The devastating events of that day led to new gun-control laws for

721


16 Australia that are among the strictest in the world. The gunman was sentenced to

TASMANIA

Port Arthur

life imprisonment with no eligibility for parole. Many of the staff at Port Arthur lost
friends, colleagues, and family members, and still find it difficult and painful to talk
about. Visitors are requested not to question their guide about these events, but to
instead read the plaque at the Memorial Garden.

The site is open daily from 8:30am to dusk; admission is A$28 for adults, A$14
for children 4 to 17, and A$62 for families of two adults and up to six children. The
admission price includes a guided walking tour and a boat cruise around the harbor,
which leaves eight times daily in summer. Passes for overnight or 2 full days are also
available. Twice a day, you can get off the harbor cruise for a 45-minute guided walk
on the Isle of the Dead, where 1,769 convicts and 180 free settlers were buried,
mostly in mass graves with no headstones. The tour costs an extra A$12 for adults,
A$8 for kids, and A$34 for families. Lantern-lit Historic Ghost Tours of Port
Arthur leave nightly at 9pm (8:30pm during winter months) and cost A$20 for adults
and A$12 for children. Reservations are essential; call &1800/659 101 in Australia
or 03/6251 2310. Tours run for about 90 minutes.

The main feature of the visitor center is an interesting Interpretive Gallery,
which takes visitors through the process of sentencing in England to transportation
to Van Diemen’s Land. The gallery contains a courtroom, a section of a transport
ship’s hull, a blacksmith’s shop, a lunatic asylum, and more.

Where to Stay & Dine

Stewarts Bay Lodge


Just 1km (2.3 mile) from the Port Arthur Historic Site,
this collection of 20-year-old log cabins and 2-year-old deluxe “spa” cabins makes a
great place to stay for those who want to self-cater or have a bit more space. There are
one-, two-, or three-bedroom cabins to choose from. All have private decks overlooking


Tasmanian Devil Disaster
Tasmania’s unique carnivorous mammal,
the handsomely sleek Tasmanian
Devil, is in real trouble. Since 1996, the
Devils have been afflicted by a cancer
known as Devil Facial Tumour Disease
(DFTD). It has decimated the wild population—
in some areas by an estimated
90%—and the disease is spreading rapidly.
It’s believed that around half the
state’s 150,000 Tasmanian devils have
died, and some scientists fear it may
wipe out the wild population entirely.
Healthy specimens are being captured
and relocated to try and preserve the
species from extinction. There are several
places where you can see captive
Devils and learn more. About 80km (50
miles) from Hobart, on the Port Arthur
Highway, Taranna, is the Tasmanian
Devil Conservation Park (&03/6250
3230; www.tasmaniandevilpark.com),
which is breeding devils with genes
that could make them resistant to the
disease. The park is open daily from
9am to 5pm. Another great place to
see Devils near Hobart is Bonorong
Park Wildlife Centre (see p. 710). In the
north, Trowunna Wildlife Park at Mole
Creek, near Deloraine (&03/
6363 6162; www.trowunna.com.au), is a
rehabilitation and conservation center
with a population of 40 Devils, as well
as other native wildlife. For more information
on Devil conservation efforts,
visit www.tassiedevil.com.au.


16
the water, and there is a lovely 20-minute walk along a bush track beside the water to
the Port Arthur Historic Site (see above). You are quite likely to spot wildlife (take the
supplied flashlight when you go out at night). The restaurant isn’t open for breakfast,
but if you don’t want to make your own there are a couple of good cafes nearby.

6955 Arthur Hwy., Port Arthur, TAS 7182. &03/6250 2888. Fax 03/6250 2999. www.stewartsbay
lodge.com.au. 40 units. A$232–A$340 1-bedroom cabin; A288–A$390 2-bedroom cabin; A$427 3-bedroom
cabin. Crib A$6.60. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; Internet kiosk (A$5
for 30 min.); tennis court. In room: A/C (deluxe cabins only), TV w/free in-house movies, DVD, CD
player, hair dryer, kitchen, no phone.

FREYCINET NATIONAL PARK


206km (128 miles) NE of Hobart; 214km (133 miles) SW of Launceston

The Freycinet Peninsula hangs down off the eastern coast of Tasmania. It’s a place
of craggy pink-granite peaks, spectacular white beaches, wetlands, heathland,
coastal dunes, and dry eucalyptus forests. You may spot sea eagles, wallabies, seals,
pods of dolphins, and humpback and southern right whales during their migration
to and from the warmer waters of northern New South Wales from May through
August. The town of Coles Bay is the main staging post, and there are many bushwalks
in the area. The Moulting Lagoon Game Reserve—an important breeding
ground for black swans and wild ducks—is signposted along the highway into Coles
Bay from Bicheno. Some 10,000 black swans inhabit the lake. Six kilometers (33.4
miles) outside town, and inside the national park, is the Cape Tourville Lighthouse,
which allows extensive views along the coast and across the Tasman Sea. Wineglass
Bay


is simply spectacular and has made it onto lists of the world’s top beaches.
Essentials

GETTING THERE Tassielink (& 1300/300 520 in Australia or 03/6230
8900; www.tigerline.com.au) runs a bus from Hobart to Bicheno on Wednesdays
and Fridays at 8:50am and on Sundays at 11am. The trip takes nearly 3 hours.
Bicheno Coaches (& 0419/570 923 mobile phone) provides the 15-minute
transfer from Bicheno to the National Park. The fare is A$36 one-way.

VISITOR INFORMATION The Visitor Information Centre (& 03/6375
1333; fax 03/6375 1533) on the Tasman Highway at Bicheno can arrange tour
bookings. Otherwise, the Tasmanian Travel and Information Centre in Hobart
(&03/6230 8383) can supply you with maps and details. Daily entry to the park
costs A$24 per vehicle. The National Parks office (& 03/6256 7000) can also
provide information.

Exploring the Park

Head out from Freycinet Lodge on a 30-minute uphill hike past beautiful pinkgranite
outcrops to Wineglass Bay Lookout for breathtaking views. You can then
head down to Wineglass Bay itself and back up again. The walk takes around 21.2
hours. A longer route takes you along the length of Hazards Beach, where you’ll
find plenty of shell middens—seashell refuse heaps—left behind by the Aborigines
who once lived here. This walk takes 6 hours.

Tasmanian Expeditions (& 1300/666 856 in Australia, or 03/6339 3999;
www.tas-ex.com) offers a 3-day trip from Launceston and back that includes 2

TASMANIA

Freycinet National

723


THE heritage HIGHWAY

By the 1820s, several garrison towns had
been built between Launceston and
Hobart, and by the middle of the 19th
century, convict labor had produced
what was considered to be the finest
highway of its time in Australia. Today,
many of the towns along the Heritage
Highway harbor magnificent examples
of Georgian and Victorian architecture.
It takes about 2 hours to drive between
Launceston and Hobart on this route
(also known as the A1, or the Midland
Hwy.), but you could easily spend a couple
of days exploring. Picturesque Ross
(121km/75 miles north of Hobart or
78km/48 miles south of Launceston) is
one of Tasmania’s best-preserved historic
villages. Ross was established as a
garrison town in 1812 on a strategically
important crossing point on the Macquarie
River. Ross Bridge, the third oldest
in Australia, was built in 1836. The
bridge is decorated with Celtic symbols,
animals, and faces of notable people of

TASMANIA

Freycinet National Park

the time. It is lit up at night, and there
are good views of it from the river’s
north bank.

 The town’s main crossroads is the
site of four historic buildings, humorously
known as “Temptation” (the
Man-o’-Ross Hotel), “Salvation” (the
Catholic church), “Recreation” (the
town hall), and “Damnation” (the old
jail). The Tasmanian Wool Centre, 48
Church St., details the growth of the
region and the wool industry since settlement.
It also houses the Ross Visitor
Information Centre (& 03/6381 5466;
www.visitross.com.au), and both are
open daily from 9am to 5pm. If you
are so charmed you want to stay overnight,
try the historic Colonial Cottages
of Ross (& 03/6381 5354; www.
cottagesofthecolony.com.au) or the
Ross Bakery Inn (& 03/6381 5246;
www.rossbakery.com.au), an 1832
convict-built coaching inn. Both are
on Church Street.

nights in cabins at Coles Bay. The trip includes walks to Wineglass Bay and Mount
Amor. It costs A$850 and departs on Wednesdays from October to June.

Not to be missed is a trip aboard Freycinet Sea Charter’s vessel Schouten Passage
(& 03/6257 0355; www.freycinetseacruises.com), which offers whale-watching
between June and September, bay and game fishing, dolphin-watching, diving, scenic
and marine wildlife cruises, and sunset cruises. Half-day cruises to Wineglass
Bay cost A$120 per person.

Where to Stay & Dine

Camping is available in the park for A$13 for two people or A$16 family of five.
Bookings are necessary for most sites and a ballot system applies from December 18
to February 10 and for Easter. For inquiries, call the Parks and Wildlife Service
(&03/6256 7000; www.parks.tas.gov.au).

Freycinet Lodge


This ecofriendly lodge offers comfortable one- and tworoom
cabins spread unobtrusively through the bush, connected by raised walking
tracks. Each has a balcony, and the more expensive ones have huge Jacuzzis. The
deluxe cabins were refurbished in 2008, and some have water views. Twenty cabins
have their own kitchens. The main part of the lodge houses a lounge room and an
excellent restaurant that sweeps out onto a veranda overlooking the green waters of


Great Oyster Bay. The lodge is right next to the white sands of Hazards Beach, and 16

from here it’s an easy stroll to the start of the Wineglass Bay walk.

Freycinet National Park, Coles Bay, TAS 7215. &1800/420 155 or 03/6225 7000. www.puretasmania.
com.au. 60 units. A$228–A$312 double. Extra person A$59. Children 4 and under stay free in parent’s
room. Free crib. Rates include breakfast. Ask about packages. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants;
bar; bikes; tennis court; Wi-Fi (A$2 for 15 min.). In room: A/C, CD player, hair dryer, minibar, no phone.

LAUNCESTON


198km (123 miles) N of Hobart

Tasmania’s second-largest city is Australia’s third oldest, after Sydney and Hobart.
Situated at the head of the Tamar River, 50km (31 miles) inland from the state’s north
coast, and surrounded by delightful undulating farmland, Launceston is crammed
with elegant Victorian and Georgian architecture and plenty of remnants of convict
days. Launceston (pop. 104,000) is one of Australia’s most beautiful cities and has
delightful parks and churches. It’s also the gateway to the wineries of the Tamar Valley,
the highlands and alpine lakes of the north, and the stunning beaches to the east.

Essentials

GETTING THERE Qantas (& 13 13 13 in Australia; www.qantas.com) and
discount carrier Tiger Airways (& 03/9335 3033; www.tigerairways.com.au)
both fly to Launceston from Melbourne. Virgin Blue (& 13 67 89 in Australia;
www.virginblue.com.au) and Jetstar (& 13 15 38 in Australia; www.jetstar.com.
au) both fly from Melbourne, Brisbane, and Sydney. The Airporter Shuttle
(&03/6343 6677) runs between city hotels and the airport from 8:45am to 5pm
daily for A$14 one-way or A$24 round-trip.

Tasmania’s Redline Coaches (& 1300/360 000 in Australia; www.redline
coaches.com.au) departs Hobart for Launceston several times daily (trip time:
around 21.2 hr.). The one-way fare is A$39. If you plan to take a ferry from Melbourne
to Devonport, Launceston is 11.2 hours from Devonport and the bus ride will cost
A$24. Driving from Hobart to Launceston takes just over 2 hours on Highway 1.

VISITOR INFORMATION The Launceston Visitor Information Centre,
Cornwall Square, 12-16 St. John St. (&03/6336 3133; fax 03/6336 3118), is open
Monday through Friday from 9am to 5pm, Saturday from 9am to 3pm, and Sunday
and holidays from 9am to noon.

CITY LAYOUT The main pedestrian shopping mall, Brisbane Street, along
with St. John and Charles streets on either side, forms the heart of the central area.
The Victorian-Italianate Town Hall is 2 blocks north on Civic Square, opposite the
red-brick post-office building dating from 1889. The Tamar River slips quietly past
the city’s northern edge and is crossed at two points by Charles Bridge and Tamar
Street. City Park, to the northeast of the central business district, is a nice place
for a stroll.

Exploring the City & Environs

Launceston is easy to explore on foot. A must for any visitor is a stroll with Launceston
Historic Walks


(&03/6331 2213), which leaves from the “1842” building
on the corner of St. John and Cimitiere streets at 4pm on Mondays and 10am
Tuesday to Saturday. The 1-hour walk gives a fascinating insight into Launceston’s
TASMANIA

Launceston


16 history and costs A$15. Grayline (& 1300/858 687 in Australia; www.grayline.

TASMANIA

Launceston

com.au) operates a 21.2 hr. coach tour of the city. It costs A$40 for adults and A$20
for children.

A must-see is Cataract Gorge , the result of violent earthquakes that rattled
Tasmania some 40 million years ago. It’s a wonderfully scenic area, and you can walk
there along the river bank from the city in about 15 minutes. The South Esk River
flows through the gorge and collects in a small lake called the Basin, traversed by a
striking suspension bridge and the longest single-span chairlift in the world
(308m/1,010 ft.). The chairlift (&03/6331 5915; www.launcestoncataractgorge.
com.au) is open daily from 9am to 4:30pm and costs A$15 for adults and A$10 for
children under 16, round-trip. The hike to the Duck Reach Power Station, now
an interpretive center, takes about 45 minutes. Other walks in the area are shorter
and easier. The Gorge Restaurant (&03/6331 3330; closed Mon) and the kiosk
next door serve meals with glorious views from the outdoor tables.

Tamar River Cruises (& 03/6334 9900; www.tamarrivercruises.com.au)
offers regular 50-minute cruises to Cataract Gorge up the Tamar River from Home
Point Wharf in Launceston. The cost is A$22 adults, A$12 children 5 to 17, and
A$56 for families of four.

OTHER ATTRACTIONS
Design Centre Tasmania


Inspiring and innovative contemporary design is
the focus here, from the building itself—a light-filled structure added on to a heritage-
listed church hall—to its contents. The permanent display is the Tasmanian
Wood Design Collection, but you will also find changing exhibitions of ceramics,
textiles, works on paper, and mixed media. There is a new exhibition every month,
from the industrial to the aesthetic. There’s a shop as well.
City Park, Brisbane St. (at Tamar St.). &03/6331 5506. www.designcentre.com.au. Free admission.
Mon–Sat 9:30am–5:30pm; Sun 10am–4pm.

The Old Umbrella Shop Built in the 1860s, this unique shop is the last genuine
period store in Tasmania and has been operated by the same family since the turn
of the 20th century. Umbrellas spanning the last 100 years are on display, and modern
“brollies” and souvenirs are for sale. The shop is listed by the National Trust.

60 George St. &03/6331 9248. Free admission. Mon–Fri 9am–5pm; Sat 9am–noon.

The Queen Victoria Museum & Art Gallery This museum, opened in honor
of Queen Victoria’s Golden Jubilee in 1891, is in two parts: one on Wellington
Street, Royal Park, in the heart of Launceston, and the other in the inner suburb of
Inveresk. The Inveresk complex, a smart redevelopment of old railyards, is home to
the Launceston Planetarium and focuses on science, which kids will find fun. The
Royal Park museum, devoted largely to fine and decorative arts, was scheduled to
reopen in late 2010 after a major redevelopment.

2 Invermay Rd., Inveresk, and 2 Wellington St., Royal Park. &03/6323 3777. www.qvmag.tas.gov.au.
Free admission. Daily 10am–5pm. Closed Good Friday and Dec 25.

Woolmers Estate


The pioneering Archer family, once the most powerful
family in Tasmania’s north, settled at this homestead near Longford, about 25km (16
miles) from Launceston, in 1817. The six generations who lived here until 1994 have
left an unrivaled legacy in the almost-untouched Woolmers Estate. There are 20 buildings,
from the grand mansion to the servants’ quarters, shearing sheds, a blacksmith’s


Launceston


16
TASMANIA
Launceston
Prince s
Square
Arbour
Park
Brickfields
Reserve
King s
Park
Royal
Park
City Park
Windmill Hill
Reserve
St. George s
Square
York Park
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Dry St.
EsplanadeBolandSt.
WilliamSt.
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St.
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Paterson
St.
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St.
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St.
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Canning
St.
Balfour
St.
Balfour St.
CanningSt.
Elizabeth
St.
York
St.
BrisbaneSt.
Willis St.
Tamar
St.George
St.
St .
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St.
Charles
St.
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BathurstSt.
Margaret
St.
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St.
Charles
St.
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St.Frederick
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Park
Royal
Park
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Reserve
St. George's
Square
York Park
Albert Hall
Nat'l Automobile
Museum
Quadrant Mall
Old Sea Port
Brisbane
Street Mall
Lindsay St.
Dry St.
Esplanade
Boland St.
William
St.
Cimitiere
St.
Cimitiere St.
Cameron St.
Paterson
St.
Brisbane
St.
York
St.
Elizabeth
St.
Frederick
St.
Canning
St.
Balfour
St.
Balfour
St.
Canning St.
Elizabeth
St.
York
St.
Brisbane
St.
Willis St.
Tamar
St.George
St.
St .
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St.
Charles
St.
G o d e r i c h
S t .
Bathurst
St.
Margaret
St.
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UpperYork St.
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St.
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St.
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St.
Wellington
St.
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St.
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LAUNCESTON
WEST
LAUNCESTON
INVERESK
Tamar
River
North Esk
South
Esk
5
8
1
9
3
11
12
6
10
2
7
4
DINING
Croplines Coffee Bar 6
Stillwater River Cafe 10
ATTRACTIONS
Design Centre Tasmania 3
The Old Umbrella Shop 2
The Queen Victoria Museum
& Art Gallery 7
ACCOMMODATIONS
Alice's Cottages &
Spa Hideaways 12
Colonial Launceston 8
Hillview House 11
Hotel Tasmania 9
Peppers Seaport Hotel 1
Waratah on York 4
York Mansions 5
N
1/4 km0
0 1/4 mile
AUSTRALIAA U S T R A L I AAUSTRALIA
CanberraCanberraPerthPerthBrisbaneBrisbaneDarwinDarwinSydneySydneyCanberra
Perth
Brisbane
Darwin
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LauncestonLauncestonLaunceston
727


16 shop, and seven free settler’s cottages. (You can stay in them.) Entry to the homestead

TASMANIA

Launceston

is by guided tour only, or you can take a self-guided tour of the gardens and outbuildings.
There’s also a restaurant serving Devonshire teas, lunches, and snacks. Take time
to smell the roses next door at the National Rose Garden of Australia (free entry),
where more than 2 hectares (5 acres) are planted with around 4,000 bushes.

Woolmers Lane, Longford. &03/6391 2230. www.woolmers.com.au. A$18 adults, A$5 children 15 and
under. Daily 10am–4:30pm. Closed Christmas Day. Guided house tours 10 and 11am, and 12:30, 2, and
3:30pm. Cottages A$178 double, A$35 extra adult, A$30 extra child 15 and under, including breakfast
and free house tour.

Where to Stay

EXPENSIVE
Peppers Seaport Hotel


Built in 2004 on the site of an old dry dock and
designed in the shape of a ship, this hotel is part of a major redevelopment of the
Seaport Dock area—just 5 minutes by car from downtown—which also includes
new restaurants, entertainment venues, and shopping facilities. The decor is smart
contemporary nautical in style, using soft, light colors, natural timbers, and chromes.
Rooms are spacious, and most have balconies either looking out over the Tamar
River and marina or over the town center to the mountains beyond. Each has a good
kitchenette and an extra fold-out sofa bed.
28 Seaport Blvd., Launceston, TAS 7250. &03/6345 3333. Fax 03/6345 3300. www.peppers.com.au.
60 units. A$210–A$271 double; A$282–A$393 suite. Extra person 13 and over A$66. AE, DC, MC, V.
Amenities: Restaurant; bar; babysitting; concierge; room service; spa. In room: A/C, TV, DVD (suites
only), hair dryer, kitchenette, minibar, Wi-Fi (from A$5.25 for 30 min.).

Quamby Estate


This historic house, built in 1848, is about a 20-minute
drive from Launceston and is the starting point for those undertaking walks of the
Overland Track given by Cradle Mountain Huts (see p. 731). Rooms are large, with
massive bathtubs (just the thing for when you return from the track!), and beautifully
appointed. Each room is different from the others; room 12 is all forest greens
and creams, while room 1 has a sleeker feel, with doors opening onto the wraparound
verandah. Some of the layout is a little odd, but that adds to the historic feel.
The kitchen is open to guests to help themselves to tea or coffee (or the bar, run on
an honesty system).

1145 Westwood Rd., Hagley, TAS 7292. &03/6392 2211. Fax 03/6392 2277. www.quambyestate.com.
9 units. A$300–A$590 double; A$60–A$80 children 12 and under sharing room with parents. Rates
include breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: Restaurant; babysitting; CD, DVD, and book
library; golf course; tennis court. In room: A/C, TV, DVD player, docking station, hair dryer, minibar.

Waratah on York


This carefully renovated Victorian mansion was built in
1862 for Alexander Webster, an ironmonger who was mayor of Launceston in the
1860s and 1870s. Some original features—pressed brass ceiling roses and a staircase
with a cast-iron balustrade—remain, while others have been faithfully re-created.
Six rooms come with a Jacuzzi, one with a balcony, and another with a sunroom. All
have high ceilings and ornate (but nonfunctional) fireplaces. The executive rooms
have four-poster beds and sweeping views of the Tamar River. A three-bedroom
apartment, in what was once the ballroom, is also available.
12 York St., Launceston, TAS 7250. &03/6331 2081. Fax 03/6331 9200. www.waratahonyork.com.au.
10 units. A$202–A$288 double; A$300 apt. Rates include breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. No
children 7 and under. Amenities: Bar. In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (A$5 per day).


16
York Mansions


Within the walls of the National Trust–classified York
Mansions, built in 1840, are five spacious two-bedroom apartments, each with a
distinct character. The Lodge apartment is fashioned after a gentleman’s drawing
room, complete with rich leather sofa, antiques, and an extensive collection of historical
books. The light and airy Duchess of York and Countess apartments are more
feminine. Each apartment has its own kitchen, dining room, living room, bedrooms,
bathroom, and laundry. There’s also a delightful cottage garden with a massive heritage-
listed Oak tree—just the spot for sundowners.

9–11 York St., Launceston, TAS 7250. &03/6334 2933. Fax 03/6334 2870. www.yorkmansions.com.au.
5 units. A$220–A$248 double. Extra person A$47. Breakfast provisions A$12. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking.
In room: TV/VCR, CD player w/CD library, hair dryer, kitchen, minibar, free Wi-Fi.

MODERATE
Alice’s Cottages & Spa Hideaways


Tucked down a romantic lane and
known collectively as the Shambles, these themed cottages are designed to bring out
the romantic in you. Four of the six cottages, which sleep only two, are named for
the places the “colonials” came from: England, Wales, Ireland, and Scotland. The
other two are the Camelot and Boudoir “spa hideaways.” Four-poster beds, soft
drapes, roaring log fires . . . you get the picture.

129 Balfour St., Launceston, TAS 7250. &03/6334 2231. Fax 03/6334 2696. www.alicescottages.com.au.
6 units. A$170–A$206 double including breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. In room: A/C, TV, kitchen.

Colonial Launceston


Those who desire tried-and-true above-standard motel
lodging will feel at home at the recently refurbished Colonial, a place that combines
old-world ambience with modern facilities. The large rooms have attractive furnishings.
They’re fairly standard and attract a large corporate clientele. Beautiful gardens
surround this property.
31 Elizabeth St., Launceston, TAS 7250. &1800/060 955 in Australia, or 03/6331 6588. Fax 03/6334
2765. www.colonialinn.com.au. 66 units. A$150–A$300 double. Children 2 and under stay free in parent’s
room. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: Restaurant; exercise room; room service. In room:
A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (A$10 per day).

Country Club Resort & Villas


Wallabies grazed outside my window when I
stayed at this resort-style hotel located between Launceston city and the airport.
This is a place that will appeal to those who want space, entertainment, and activities.
There is an 18-hole golf course, a small casino, and lots of things to do, from
fly-fishing on the private lake to horse riding and more. All rooms have everything
you’d expect—as well as a toaster—and Manor suites have a separate bedroom,
lounge, private balcony, and spa tub. There are also one-, two-, and three-bedroom
villas with full kitchens and car parking right outside. Villas are set apart from the
main complex, but there is a free shuttle bus to take you there.
Country Club Ave., Prospect Vale, TAS 7250. & 1800/030 211 in Australia, or 03/6225 7092. Fax
03/6331 7347. www.countryclubtasmania.com.au. 182 units. A$169–A$179 double; A$198–A$333 suite;
A$133–A$186 villa. Extra person A$35. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: 5 restaurants, 4 bars;
babysitting; concierge; golf course; exercise room; Jacuzzi; indoor heated pool; room service; sauna; 2
lit tennis courts. In room: A/C, TV w/pay movies, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (A$15 per day).

INEXPENSIVE
Hillview House The rooms at this restored farmhouse are cozy and quite comfortable.
Each comes with a double bed and a shower. The family room has an extra
single bed; it’s the nicest unit and has the best views. The hotel overlooks the city,

TASMANIA

Launceston

729


16 and the large veranda and colonial dining room have extensive views over the city

TASMANIA

Cradle Mountain & Lake St. Clair

and the Tamar River.

193 George St., Launceston, TAS 7250. &03/6331 7388. Fax 03/6331 7388. www.hillviewhouse.net.au.
9 units. A$105–A$120 double; A$120–A$130 family room for 3. Rates include full breakfast. MC, V. Free
parking. In room: TV.

Where to Dine

EXPENSIVE
Stillwater River Cafe


MODERN AUSTRALIAN This fabulous eatery is
located inside an old mill beside the Tamar River. Come here for a good breakfast,
a casual lunch at one of the tables outside overlooking the river, or an atmospheric
dinner. The dinner menu is fascinating, with all sorts of delicacies on the menu. Try
the seared scallops or the crispy twice-cooked duck with caramelized rhubarb. The
wine cellar brings up a good selection of Tasmanian wines. It’s a good idea to go for
the six-course tasting menu, which comes in at a respectable A$105, or A$144
including matching wines. A vegetarian menu is available on request.
Ritchies Mill (bottom of Paterson St.). &03/6331 4153. www.stillwater.net.au. Reservations recommended.
Lunch A$20–A$30; dinner A$70 2 courses, A$85 3 courses. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 8am–10pm.

INEXPENSIVE
Croplines Coffee Bar


CAFE If you crave good coffee, bypass every other
place in Launceston and head here. It’s a bit hard to find, and you may have to ask
for directions, but basically it’s behind the old Brisbane Arcade. The owners are
dedicated to coffee, grinding their beans on the premises daily. If coffee’s not your
cup of tea, then try the excellent hot chocolate.

Brisbane Court, off Brisbane St. &03/6331 4023. Coffees and teas A$1.80–A$2.60. Cakes under A$4.
AE, MC, V. Mon–Fri 7:30am–5:30pm; Sat 8:30am–12:30pm.

CRADLE MOUNTAIN &
LAKE ST. CLAIR


85km (53 miles) S of Devonport; 175km (109 miles) NW of Hobart

The national park and World Heritage area that encompasses both Cradle Mountain
and Lake St. Clair is one of the most spectacular regions in Australia and, after
Hobart and Port Arthur, the most visited place in Tasmania. The 1,545m (5,068-ft.)
mountain dominates the north part of the island, and the long, deep lake is to its
south. Between them lie steep slopes, button grass plains, majestic alpine forests,
dozens of lakes filled with trout, and several rivers. Mount Ossa, in the center of
the park, is Tasmania’s highest point at 1,617m (5,304 ft.). The Overland Track
(see “Hiking the Overland Track,” below), links Cradle Mountain with Lake St. Clair
and is the best known of Australia’s walking trails.

Essentials

GETTING THERE Tassielink (& 1300/300 520 in Australia, or 03/6230
8900; www.tigerline.com.au) runs buses to Cradle Mountain from Hobart, Launceston,
and Devonport. Its summer Overland Track service drops off passengers at the
beginning of the walk (Cradle Mountain) and picks them up at Lake St. Clair. It
costs A$99 starting from Launceston and returning to Hobart; A$131 starting at and


HIKING THE overland track



16
The best-known hiking trail in Australia You may only walk in one direction: Crais
the Overland Track, a 65km (40-mile) dle Mountain to Lake St. Clair.
route between Cradle Mountain and Cradle Mountain Huts (& 03/6331
Lake St. Clair. The trek takes 6 to 10 2006; www.cradlehuts.com.au) runs 3-,
days and can be tough going in some 4-, and 6-day guided walks. The full
parts, but is an excellent way to see the 6-day hike costs between A$2,550 and
beauty of Tasmania’s pristine wilderness. A$2,750, depending on the season;
You will pass through high alpine pla-rates are all-inclusive and include
teaus, button grass plains, heathland, transfers to and from Launceston. You
and rainforests, all studded with glacial stay in a fully equipped and heated
lakes, ice-carved crags, and waterfalls. private hut with twin-share bunkrooms,
There are many rewarding side trips, showers, a lounge, a full kitchen, and a
including the ascent (weather permit-drying room. A three-course meal is
ting) of Mount Ossa (1,617m/5,304 ft.), prepared each night by your guides.
Tasmania’s highest peak. Groups are limited to 10, with no chil-

During the peak season (Nov 1–Apr dren under 12. You must carry your
30), you must pay a National Parks fee own backpack (about 10kg/22 lbs.)—
of A$160 adults or A$128 children 5 to but if the weather is good and you
17, as well as the normal park entry fee. have chosen one of the shorter treks,
Only 60 people per day are allowed on you may soon be wishing you’d gone
the track (34 bookings are reserved for for the full 6 days! Tasmanian Expediindependent
walkers), and you must tions (& 1300/666 856 in Australia,
book at www.overlandtrack.com.au. or 03/6339 3999; www.tas-ex.com)
Simple public huts (first-come, first-offers a 7-day trek departing from
served) and camping areas are available Launceston.
along the track for independent walkers.

TASMANIA

Cradle Mountain St. Clair

returning to Hobart; A$129 starting at and returning to Launceston; and A$133
Devonport to Devonport.

Maxwells Cradle Mountain–Lake St. Clair Charter Bus and Taxi Service
(&03/6492 1431) runs buses from Devonport and Launceston to Cradle Mountain.
The fare starts at A$35. The buses also travel to other areas nearby, such as
Lake St. Clair. Buses also run from the Cradle Mountain campground to the start of
the Overland Track.

VISITOR INFORMATION The park headquarters, the Cradle Mountain
Visitor Centre (&03/6492 1100; www.parks.tas.gov.au), on the northern edge of
the park outside Cradle Mountain Lodge, offers the best information on walks and
treks. It’s open daily 8am to 5pm (6pm in summer).

Exploring the Park

Cradle Mountain Lodge (see “Where to Stay & Dine,” below) runs a daily program
of guided walks, abseiling (rappelling), rock-climbing, and trout-fishing for
lodge guests. The park has plenty of trails that can be attempted by people equipped
with directions from the staff at the park headquarters (see “Visitor Information,”
above). Be warned, though, that the weather changes quickly in the high country; go

731


16 prepared with wet-weather gear and always tell someone where you are headed. Of

TASMANIA

The West Coast

the shorter walks, the stroll to Pencil Pines and the 5km (3-mile) walk to Dove Lake
are the most pleasant.

Where to Stay & Dine

Cradle Mountain Lodge


If you like luxury with your rainforests, then this
award-winning lodge is the place for you. Just minutes from your bed are giant buttresses
of 1,500-year-old trees, moss forests, mountain ridges, limpid pools and
lakes, and scampering marsupials. The cabins are comfortable, the food excellent,
the staff friendly, and the open fireplaces well worth cuddling up in front of for a
couple of days. Each modern wood cabin has either a fire or gas heater for chilly
evenings. There are no TVs in the rooms—but there is a TV lounge in the casual,
comfortable main lodge. For a bit of pampering after all your outdoor activity, head
to the Waldheim Alpine Spa for massage and other treatments.
4038 Cradle Mountain Rd., Cradle Mountain, TAS 7306. &1300/806 192 in Australia, or 03/6492 2103.
www.cradlemountainlodge.com.au. 86 units. A$310 Pencil Pine cabin double; A$386 spa cabin double;
A$474–A$760 suite. Children 11 and under stay free in parent’s room. Rates include breakfast. Ask about
packages. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: 2 restaurants; 2 bars; Internet kiosk (A$2 for 15 min.);
spa. In room: CD player (except Pencil Pine cabins), hair dryer, minibar.

Waldheim Cabins For a real wilderness experience, head to these cabins run by
the Parks and Wildlife Service, located 5km (3 miles) from Cradle Mountain Lodge.
Nestled between button grass plains and temperate rainforest, they are simple and
affordable and offer good access to plenty of walking tracks. Each heated cabin has
single bunk beds, basic cooking utensils, crockery, cutlery, and a gas stove. Each
accommodates four or eight people, but if your party is smaller you have exclusive use.
Two outbuildings with composting toilets and showers serve all the cabins. Generated
power is provided for lighting between 6 and 11pm only. Stores and fuel can be bought
at Cradle Mountain Lodge. Bring your own bed linen or hire it. Guests can pick up
keys from the National Park Visitor Centre between 8:30am and 4:30pm daily.

Cradle Mountain Visitor Centre, P.O. Box 20, Sheffield, TAS 7306. &03/6492 1110. Fax 03/6492 1120.
www.parks.tas.gov.au. 8 cabins. Cabins A$95–A$185. Linen A$7.50 per person. MC, V. In room: No phone.

THE WEST COAST

296km (184 miles) NW of Hobart; 245km (152 miles) SW of Devonport

Tasmania’s west coast is wild and mountainous, with a scattering of mining and logging
towns and plenty of wilderness. The pristine Franklin and Gordon rivers tumble
through World Heritage areas once contested by loggers, politicians, and environmentalists,
whereas the bare, poisoned hills that make up the eerily beautiful “moonscape”
of Queenstown show the results of mining and industrial activity. Strahan
(pronounced Strawn), the only town of any size in the area, is the starting point for
cruises up the Gordon River and tours into the rainforest. You need at least 3 days
here to do and see everything.

Essentials

GETTING THERE Tassielink (& 1300/300 520 in Australia, or 03/6230
8900; www.tigerline.com.au) runs coaches between Strahan and Launceston,
Devonport, and Cradle Mountain and to Hobart. The trip from Launceston takes


16
more than 8 hours. The drive from Hobart to Strahan takes about 41.2 hours without
stops. From Devonport, allow 31.2 hours. Although the roads are good, they twist and
turn and are particularly hazardous at night, when nocturnal animals come out to
feed. The cheapest way to travel between these places is by bus with a Tassielink
Explorer Pass.

VISITOR INFORMATION The West Coast Visitor Information Centre, on
the Esplanade at Strahan (&03/6472 6800; www.tasmaniaswestcoast.com.au), is
open daily from 10am to 6pm in autumn and winter and to 7pm in spring and summer.
Closed Christmas Day and Good Friday.

Cruising the Rivers

Gordon River Cruises (& 1800/084 620 in Australia, or 03/6225 7075; www.
puretasmania.com.au) offers a 6-hour trip daily at 8:30am, returning at 2:15pm. In
peak season, a second cruise leaves at 2:45pm and returns at 8:30pm. Cruises take
passengers across Macquarie Harbour and up the Gordon River past historic Sarah
Island, where convicts—working in horrendous conditions—once logged valuable
Huon pine. The trip includes an entertaining guided tour through the ruins on Sarah
Island with actor/historian Richard Davey. Cruises depart from the Main Wharf on
the Esplanade, in the town center. The fare, including lunch, is A$85 adults and
A$40 children 3 to 14 for internal seats; A$110 adults and A$60 kids for window
seats; and A$189 for all seats upstairs with the captain.

World Heritage Cruises (& 1800/611 796 in Australia or 03/6471 7174;
www.worldheritagecruises.com.au) offers morning and afternoon cruises, leaving
Strahan Wharf at 9am and returning at 2:45pm and again at 3pm and returning at
8:30pm. The company’s 35m (115-ft.) catamaran Eagle stops at Sarah Island, Heritage
Landing, and at a salmon farm. The cruises cost A$90 to A$115 for adults,
A$48 to A$63 for children 5 to 16 (free for children under 5), and A$247 to A$310
for families of five, including a buffet lunch or dinner.

West Coast Yacht Charters (& 03/6471 7422 or mobile phone 0419/300
994) runs overnight sailing cruises (including Sarah Island) for A$320 per person,
all-inclusive. The company also offers other cruises.

Other Adventures

Bonnet Island Experience


Little Penguins come ashore on this tiny island
at the mouth of Macquarie Harbour each night during summer to burrow and breed.
Join an evening cruise from Strahan to view them and learn about the history of this
islet and its lighthouse. After a twilight dawdle—the island can be walked in just a few
minutes—it’s back to the boat for wine and cheese, and then another shore visit after
dark, using infrared torches to see the penguins. When you step ashore, mind your
feet—the penguins are unafraid and may almost trip you up! Tour time is 90 minutes.
Cruise departs from Strahan harbor. &1800/084 620. www.puretasmania.com.au. A$85 adults, A$40
children (minimum age 5 years), A$200 family of 4. Daily at twilight.

Piners & Miners


This day tour will tell you everything you need to know
about the history of the West Coast—and bring alive some of the fascinating characters
who shaped it. Start off in a unique four-wheel-drive vehicle that runs on the old
rail tracks while you listen to the story of the miners who sought riches here (and who
also poisoned the King and Queen Rivers, today considered “dead” rivers). Then you’ll
TASMANIA

The West Coast

733


16 take a 2-hour walk through lush rainforest to a rendezvous with a gourmet barbecue

TASMANIA

The West Coast

lunch whipped up by a waiting chef in the shadow of the ghost town of East Pillinger.
From there, it’s a boat ride back to Strahan. A big day out, but highly recommended.

Departs The Esplanade, Strahan. & 1800/084 620. www.puretasmania.com.au. A$365 per person
(not suitable for children under 10). Daily 7:30am–4:30pm.

West Coast Wilderness Railway You can take this historic train ride in either
of two directions, from Queenstown to Strahan (my preferred option) or vice versa.
A bus provides the return trip. Choose from the all-inclusive Premier Carriage, with
a personal valet serving gourmet goodies (almost constantly!), or “tourist” class,
which looks perfectly comfortable. Along the way there is an extensive commentary
and the chance to get off the train at each stop for a look around. Those who have
already done the Piners & Miners tour (see above) will find themselves covering the
same ground. The whole trip takes around 6 hours.

Driffield Street, Queenstown. &1800/628 288 in Australia or 03/6225 7075. www.puretasmania.com.
au. Premier Carriage A$210 per person; tourist carriage A$111 adults, A$20 children 3–14, A$262 family
of 4, plus A$18 adults and A$10 children for bus transfer. Daily (except Christmas Day); times change
seasonally so check when booking.

Where to Stay & Dine

Gordon Gateway Chalets These modern self-contained units are on a hill with
good views of the harbor and Strahan township, and range from studio units to
luxury penthouses. Each has cooking facilities, so you can save on meal costs. The
two-bedroom suites have bathtubs, the studios just showers. Breakfast is provided
on request. Guests have the use of a barbecue area. One unit has facilities for travelers
with disabilities.

Grining St., Strahan, TAS 7468. &1300/134 425 in Australia, or 03/6471 7165. Fax 03/6471 7588. www.
gordongateway.com.au. 19 units. A$55–A$350 double. Winter discounts available. MC, V. Amenities:
Babysitting. In room: TV, CD player (executive suites only), hair dryer, kitchenette, minibar.

Ormiston House


Ormiston House is a gem. Built in 1899 for the family
that gave it its name, under the present owners it has become a sort of shrine to their
predecessors. Each room is styled to represent one of the original family members.
They are all intricately furnished, wallpapered in busy designs, and come with a
good-size bathroom. There’s a morning room and a restaurant serving good food. The
owners are friendly and have plenty of time for their guests. No children under 12.
1 The Esplanade, Strahan, TAS 7468. &03/6471 7077. www.ormistonhouse.com.au. 5 units, 1 with
shower only. A$210–A$260 double. Rates include breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. No children 11 and under.
Amenities: Restaurant; bar; concierge. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (free).

Strahan Village This complex is mostly based on the hill overlooking the harbor
and town. The rooms in the hilltop accommodation are large, many of them with
fantastic views, but are otherwise fairly standard. More luxurious are the Waterfront
Executive rooms, and there are also rooms in terrace houses opposite the harbor.
The 11 reproduction “colonial” cottages along the main street that are available for
rent look cute, but their white picket fences and manicured gardens might make you
feel you’ve stepped onto the set of The Truman Show.

The Esplanade, Strahan, TAS 7468. &1300/134 425 in Australia, or 03/6471 4200. Fax 03/6471 43989.
www.puretasmania.com.au. 141 units. A$100–A$165 double (higher in peak times). MC, V. Amenities:
Restaurant; bar; Wi-Fi (A$10 per hr.). In room: TV, DVD player (some units only), hair dryer, minibar.


FAST FACTS


FAST FACTS: AUSTRALIA

Area Codes Each state has a different area code: 02 for New South
Wales and the ACT; 07 for Queensland; 03 for Victoria and Tasmania; and
08 for South Australia, the Northern Territory, and Western Australia. You
must dial the appropriate code if calling outside the state you are in; however,
you also need to use the code if you are calling outside the city you
are in. For example if you are in Sydney, where the code is 02 and you
want to call another New South Wales town, you still dial 02 before the
number. See “Staying Connected,” p. 72.

Business Hours Banks are open Monday through Thursday from
9:30am to 4pm, Friday 9:30am to 5pm. General business hours are Monday
through Friday from 8:30am to 5:30pm. Shopping hours are usually
8:30am to 5:30pm weekdays and 9am to 4pm or 5pm on Saturday. Many
shops close on Sunday, although major department stores and shops in
tourist precincts are open 7 days.

Cellphones (Mobile Phones) See “Staying Connected,” p. 71.
Drinking Laws Hours vary from pub to pub, but most are open daily
from around 10am or noon to 10pm or midnight. The minimum drinking
age is 18. Random breath tests to catch drunk drivers are common, and
drunk-driving laws are strictly enforced. Getting caught drunk behind the
wheel will mean a court appearance, not just a fine. The maximum permit


ted blood-alcohol level is .05%. Alcohol is sold in liquor stores, in the “bottle
shops” attached to every pub, and in some states in supermarkets.
Driving Rules See “Getting There and Getting Around,” p. 49.
Electricity The current is 240 volts AC, 50 hertz. Sockets take two or

three flat, not rounded, prongs. Bring a connection kit of the right power
and phone adapters, a spare phone cord, and a spare Ethernet network
cable—or find out whether your hotel supplies them to guests. North
Americans and Europeans will need to buy a converter before they leave
home. (Don’t wait until you get to Australia, because Australian stores are
likely to stock only converters for Aussie appliances to fit American and
European outlets.) Some large hotels have 110V outlets for electric shavers
(or dual voltage), and some will lend converters, but don’t count on it in
smaller, less expensive hotels, motels, or B&Bs. Power does not start automatically
when you plug in an appliance; you need to flick the switch
beside the socket to the “on” position.

Embassies & Consulates Embassies or consulates with posts in state
capitals are listed in “Fast Facts” in the relevant state chapters of this
book. But most diplomatic posts are in Canberra:

Canada: High Commission of Canada, Commonwealth Avenue, Yarralumla,

ACT 2600 (& 02/6270 4000).
Ireland: Embassy of Ireland, 20 Arkana St., Yarralumla, ACT 2600


(& 02/6273 3022).

17



FAST
FACTS

Emergencies


New Zealand: New Zealand High Commission, Commonwealth Avenue, Canberra, ACT

2601 (& 02/6270 4211).
The United Kingdom: British High Commission, Commonwealth Avenue, Canberra, ACT


2601 (& 02/6270 6666).

The United States: United States Embassy, 21 Moonah Place, Yarralumla, ACT 2600

17
(& 02/6214 5600).
Emergencies Dial & 000 anywhere in Australia for police, ambulance, or the fire
department. This is a free call from public and private telephones and needs no coins.
The TTY emergency number is & 106.
Gasoline (Petrol) Gasoline (petrol) prices tend to fluctuate, but at press time
were around A$1.32 a liter for unleaded petrol in Sydney, and A$1.47 a liter or more in
the Outback. One U.S. gallon equals 3.78 liters or .85 imperial gallons. Most rental cars
take unleaded gas, and motor homes run on diesel, which at press time was averaging
around the same price as unleaded gas. Taxes are already included in the printed
price. Fill-up locations are known as petrol or service stations.

Holidays Major public holidays—where almost everything shuts down—are New Year’s
Day, Good Friday, Easter Sunday and Easter Monday, Christmas Day, and Boxing Day
(Dec 26). If December 26 falls on a weekend, the following Monday is a holiday. On
Anzac Day (Apr 25), a war veterans’ commemorative day, most shops and all government
departments are closed, but some tourist attractions reopen at around 1pm. Australia Day
is a national public holiday on January 26.

In addition to the period from late December to the end of January, when Aussies take
their summer vacations, the 4 days at Easter (from Good Friday to Easter Monday) and
all school holidays are very busy, so book ahead. The school year in Australia is broken
into four semesters, with 2-week holidays around Easter, the last week of June and the
first week of July (or first 2 weeks of July), and the last week of September and the first
week of October. Some states break at slightly different dates. There’s a 6-week summer
(Christmas) vacation from mid-December to the end of January.

Other major state public holidays are: Labour Day (second Mon in Mar, WA and
VIC; first Mon in May, QLD; first Mon in Oct, NSW and SA); Eight Hours Day (first Mon
in Mar, TAS); Canberra Day (third Mon in Mar, ACT); May Day (first Mon in May, NT);
Adelaide Cup (third Mon in May, SA); Foundation Day (first Mon in June, WA); Queen’s
Birthday (Mon in late Sept/early Oct, WA; second Mon in June, all except WA); Royal
National Show Day (second or third Wed in Aug, QLD); and Melbourne Cup Day (first
Tues in Nov, in Melbourne only). For more information on holidays, see “Australia Calendar
of Events,” on p. 39.

Insurance Standard medical and travel insurance is advisable for travel to Australia,
especially if you are planning to travel to remote areas in the Outback. Divers should
also ensure they have the appropriate insurance. For information on traveler’s insurance,
trip cancelation insurance, and medical insurance while traveling, please visit
www.frommers.com/tips.

Internet Access See “Staying Connected,” p. 72.
Legal Aid If you find yourself in trouble with the long arm of the law while visiting
Australia, the first thing you should do is contact your country’s embassy or nearest
consulate in Australia. See contact details for Canberra diplomatic posts under
“Embassies & Consulates” above. Embassies or consulates with posts in state capitals
are listed in “Fast Facts,” in the relevant state chapters of this book. The U.S. Embassy
considers an “emergency” to be either your arrest or the loss of your passport. If


arrested in Australia, you will have to go through the Australian legal process for
being charged, prosecuted, possibly convicted and sentenced, and for any appeals
process. However, U.S. consular officers (and those of other countries) provide a wide
variety of services to their citizens arrested abroad and their families. These may
include providing a list of local attorneys to help you get legal representation, providing
information about judicial procedures, and notifying your family and/or friends, if
you wish. However, they cannot demand your release, represent you at your trial, give
you legal advice, or pay your fees or fines.


Mail A postcard costs A$1.40 to send anywhere in the world. A card will take 4-6
working days to reach the U.S.


Newspapers & Magazines See “Staying Connected,” p. 72.
Passports See “Embassies & Consulates,” above, for whom to contact if you lose
your passport while traveling in Australia. For other information, contact the following
agencies:


For Residents of Australia Contact the Australian Passport Information Service at

& 131-232, or visit www.passports.gov.au.
For Residents of Canada Contact the central Passport Office, Department of Foreign
Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (& 800/567-6868; www.ppt.
gc.ca).


For Residents of Ireland Contact the Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth


Street, Dublin 2 (& 01/671-1633; www.foreignaffairs.gov.ie).
For Residents of New Zealand Contact the Passports Office, Department of Internal
Affairs, 47 Boulcott Street, Wellington, 6011 (& 0800/225-050 in New Zealand or
04/474-8100; www.passports.govt.nz).


For Residents of the United Kingdom Visit your nearest passport office, major post
office, or travel agency or contact the Identity and Passport Service (IPS), 89
Eccleston Square, London, SW1V 1PN (& 0300/222-0000; www.ips.gov.uk).


For Residents of the United States To find your regional passport office, check the


U.S. State Department website (travel.state.gov/passport) or call the National Passport
Information Center (& 877/487-2778) for automated information.
Police Dial & 000 anywhere in Australia. This is a free call from public and private
telephones and requires no coins.


Smoking Smoking in most public areas, such as museums, cinemas, and theaters, is
restricted or banned. Smoking in restaurants may be limited—Western Australia and
New South Wales ban it altogether, and in many other states, restaurants have smoking
and nonsmoking sections. Pubs and clubs, for a long time the last bastion for
smokers, now have total bans across the country. Australian aircraft on all routes are
completely nonsmoking, as are all airport buildings.


Taxes Australia applies a 10% Goods and Services Tax (GST) on most products and
services. Your international airline tickets to Australia are not taxed, nor are domestic airline
tickets for travel within Australia if you bought them outside Australia. If you buy Australian
airline tickets once you arrive in Australia, you will pay GST on them.


 Through the Tourist Refund Scheme (TRS), Australians and international visitors can
claim a refund of the GST (and of a 14.5% wine tax called the Wine Equalisation Tax, or
WET) paid on a purchase of more than A$300 from a single outlet, within the last 30
days before you leave. More than one item may be included in that A$300. For example,
you can claim the GST you paid on 10 T-shirts, each worth A$30, as long as they were
bought from a single store. Do this as you leave by presenting your receipt or “tax

17
FAST
FACTS

Taxes


737



FAST
FACTS

Telephones


invoice” to the Australian Customs Service’s TRS booths, in the International Terminal
departure areas at most airports. If you buy several things on different days from one
store that together add up to A$300 or more, you must ask the store to total all purchases
on one tax invoice (or receipt)—now there’s a nice piece of bureaucracy to
remember Australia by! Pack the items in your carry-on baggage, because you must
show them to Customs. You can use the goods before you leave Australia and still claim
the refund, but you cannot claim a refund on things you have consumed (film you use,
say, or food). You cannot claim a refund on alcohol other than wine. Allow an extra 15
minutes to stand in line at the airport and get your refund.

You can also claim a refund if you leave Australia as a cruise passenger from Circular

Quay or Darling Harbour in Sydney, Brisbane, Cairns, Darwin, Hobart, or Fremantle

(Perth). If your cruise departs from elsewhere in Australia, or if you are flying out from an

airport other than Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane, Adelaide, Cairns, Perth, Darwin, or the

Gold Coast, telephone the Australian Customs Service (&1300/363 263 in Australia, or

02/6275 6666) to see if you can still claim the refund.

Items bought in duty-free stores will not be charged GST. Nor will items you export—such

as an Aboriginal painting that you buy in a gallery in Alice Springs and have shipped

straight to your home outside Australia.

Basic groceries are not GST-taxed, but restaurant meals are.

Other taxes include a departure tax of A$38 for every passenger 12 years and over,

included in the price of your airline ticket when you buy it in your home country; landing

and departure taxes at some airports, also included in the price of your ticket; and a “reef

tax,” officially dubbed the Environmental Management Charge, of A$5 for every person

over the age of 4 every time he or she enters the Great Barrier Reef Marine Park. (This

charge goes toward park upkeep.)

Most airlines and an increasing number of tour operators, such as cruise companies

and long distance trains also impose a “fuel surcharge” to help them combat rising

fuel costs. This is usually added to the price of your ticket.

Telephones See “Staying Connected,” p. 72.
Time Australian Eastern Standard Time (EST, sometimes also written as AEST) covers
Queensland, New South Wales, the Australian Capital Territory, Victoria, and Tasmania.
Central Standard Time (CST) is used in the Northern Territory and South
Australia, and Western Standard Time (WST) is the standard in Western Australia.
When it’s noon in New South Wales, the ACT, Victoria, Queensland, and Tasmania, it’s
11:30am in South Australia and the Northern Territory, and 10am in Western Australia.
All states except Queensland, the Northern Territory, and Western Australia observe
daylight saving time, usually from the first Sunday in October to the first Sunday in
April. However, not all states switch over to daylight saving on the same day or in the
same week. The east coast of Australia is GMT (Greenwich Mean Time) plus 10 hours.
When it is noon on the east coast, it is 2am in London that morning, and 6pm in Los
Angeles and 9pm in New York the previous night. These times are based on standard
time, so allow for daylight saving in the Australian summer, or in the country you are

calling. New Zealand is 2 hours ahead of the east coast of Australia, except during
daylight saving, when it is 3 hours ahead of Queensland.
Tipping Tipping is not expected in Australia. It is usual to tip around 10% or round

up to the nearest A$10 for a substantial meal in a family restaurant. Some passengers
round up to the nearest dollar in a cab, but it’s okay to insist on every bit of change
back. Tipping bellboys and porters is sometimes done, but no one tips bar staff, barbers,
or hairdressers.


Toilets Public toilets are easy to find—and free—in most Australian cities and towns.
If you are driving, most towns have “restrooms” on the main street (although the
cleanliness may vary wildly). In some remote areas, toilets are “composting,” meaning
there is no flush, just a drop into a pit beneath you.


Visas Along with a current passport valid for the duration of your stay, the Australian
government requires a visa from visitors of every nation, except New Zealand, to
be issued before you arrive. See p. 41 for more information on obtaining a visa.


Visitor Information Tourism Australia is the best source of information on traveling
Down Under. Its website, www.australia.com, has more than 10,000 pages of listings
of tour operators, hotels, car-rental companies, special travel outfitters, holidays,
maps, distance charts, suggested itineraries, and much more. The site provides information
tailored to travelers from your country of origin, including packages and deals.
By signing up for the free e-newsletter, you will receive updates on hot deals, events,
and the like on a regular basis. You can also order brochures online. Tourism Australia
operates a website only, no telephone lines. Other good sources are the websites of
Australia’s state tourism marketing offices. They are:


W
Australian Capital Tourism: www.visitcanberra.com.au.
W
Northern Territory Tourist Commission: www.travelnt.com.
W
South Australian Tourism Commission: www.southaustralia.com.
W
Tourism New South Wales: www.visitnsw.com.au or www.sydneyaustralia.com.
W
Tourism Queensland: www.queenslandholidays.com.au.
W
Tourism Tasmania: www.discovertasmania.com.
W
Tourism Victoria: www.visitvictoria.com.
W
Western Australian Tourism Commission: www.westernaustralia.com.
Water Water is fine to drink everywhere. In the Outback, the taps may carry warm


brackish water from underground, called “bore water,” for showers and laundry, while
drinking water is collected in rainwater tanks.
Wi-Fi See “Staying Connected,” p. 72.


17
FAST
FACTS

Wi-Fi


739



GENERAL INDEX

Index


See also Accommodations and
Restaurant indexes, below.

General Index

A

AAT Kings, 389, 406, 410, 420,

660, 665
Abbey's Bookshop (Sydney), 171
Abercrombie Caves, 195
Aboriginal Art & Culture Centre

(Alice Springs), 393

Aboriginal Australia Art &
Culture Centre (Alice Springs),
397

Aboriginal Fine Arts Gallery
(Darwin), 427
Aboriginal people and culture,
62–63

Alice Springs, 393, 397
in the beginning, 22–23
best places for, 12–13
the Blue Mountains, 186
Brambuk Aboriginal Cultural

Centre (Grampians

National Park), 680
Darwin, 427
Dreamtime stories, 26
Fire-Works Gallery

(Brisbane), 258
foods, 36
Guluyambi Cultural Cruise

(East Alligator River),

439–440
Kakadu National Park, 439–441
Katherine area, 447
The Kimberley, 534
KuKu-Yalanji Dreamtime, 305
Legend of the Three Sisters,

187
Melbourne, 631


shopping, 634
music, 34
Mutawintji National Park, 232
New Norcia, 492
Perth, 475, 482, 483
rock art
"stolen generations" of, 26–27
Sydney, 151, 170–171
Tjapukai Aboriginal Cultural

Park, 286–287
tours, 64
Uluru-Kata Tjuta National

Park tours, 410
Umbarra Aboriginal Cultural
Centre (Wallaga Lake), 224

Wardan Aboriginal Cultural
Centre (Yallingup), 501
William Ricketts Sanctuary


(Mt. Dandenong), 644–645
Yididi Aboriginal Guided
Tours, 384

Above and Beyond Tours, 59
Abseiling (rappelling), 68, 256
Accommodations, 73–75. See

also Accommodations Index

best, 15–19

Active vacations, 66–71
Adelaide, 549–567

accommodations, 557–560
business hours, 556
currency exchange, 556
doctors and dentists,

556–557
emergencies, 557
getting around, 555–556
hospitals, 557
layout of, 555
nightlife, 566
pharmacies, 557
post office, 557
restaurants, 560–562
restrooms, 557
safety, 557
shopping, 565–566
sights and attractions,

561–564
spectator sports, 565
traveling to, 552, 554–555
visitor information, 555

Adelaide Festival, 554, 559
Adelaide Festival Centre, 566
Adelaide Hills, 567–570
Adelaide's Top Food and Wine

Tours, 64
Aerial tours. See Flightseeing
Age of Fishes Museum

(Canowindra), 195
Agincourt reefs, 277
Airlie Beach, 335–336
Airport Link (Sydney), 94
Air travel, 43–46
Akira Isagawa (Sydney), 172
Albany, 505–509
Albany Wind Farm, 507
Albion Street Centre (Sydney),

59
Albury, 219
Alice Springs, 389–402

accommodations, 398–400
active pursuits, 396–397
getting around, 392
layout of, 392
organized tours, 395–397
restaurants, 400–402
road trips from, 402–407
shopping, 397
special events, 392
traveling to, 390, 392
visitor information, 392

Alice Springs Desert Park, 393
Alice Springs Holidays, 389, 395
Alice Springs Reptile Centre, 393
Alice Springs Telegraph Station

Historical Reserve, 393–394
Alice Wanderer (Alice Springs),

395, 404
All Australian Pass, 54
Alpine National Park, 676

Altman & Cherny (Sydney), 174
Altmann & Cherny (Melbourne),
636
American Express, 55

Adelaide, 556
Brisbane, 242
Canberra, 690
Melbourne, 609
Perth, 460
Sydney, 109
traveler's checks, 56


Amigo's Castle (Lightning

Ridge), 234
Anangu Tours, 410
Ancient Empire, 511
Ando's Outback Tours, 213, 234
Andrew (Boy) Charlton

Swimming Pool (Sydney), 168
Angahook-Lorne State Park, 666
Animal-rights issues, 63
Anna Bay, 204
Antiques

Sydney, 170

Anzac Day, 39–40, 473
Anzac Memorial (Sydney), 162
ANZ (Sydney), 154
Apartment rentals, 74

the Gold Coast, 370

Apollo Bay, 666
Apple Isle Wine Tours, 64
Aquarium of Western Australia

(AQWA; Perth), 471
Aquariums and marine-life
attractions

Marineland Melanesia (Green
Island), 288
Melbourne Aquarium,
626, 628
National Zoo and Aquarium
(Canberra), 699
Oceanworld Manly

(Sydney), 156
Sydney Aquarium, 153
Underwater World

(Mooloolaba), 357

Aqua + Tower Pass (Sydney), 144
AQWA (Aquarium of Western
Australia; Perth), 471
Araluen Arts Centre (Alice

Springs), 394
Araluen Cultural Precinct, 394
Archibald Fountain (Sydney),

162
The Archway, 195
Area codes, 735
Argyle, Lake, 535
Arq (Sydney), 176
Artesian Bore Baths (near

Lightning Ridge), 234
Art Gallery of Ballarat, 660
Art Gallery of New South Wales

(Sydney), 159, 161
Art Gallery of South Australia
(Adelaide), 562
Art Gallery of Western Australia
(Perth), 471


The Arts Centre (Melbourne),
637

Ashbrook (Willyabrup), 497

Ashcombe Maze & Water
Gardens (Shoreham), 653–654

ATMs (automated-teller
machines), 55

Aussie AirPass, 45–46

Aussie Explorer pass, 54

Aussie Highlights pass, 54

Australasian Golf Museum
(Bothwell), 718

Australia Day, 39, 474

Australian Aviation Heritage
Centre (Darwin), 426

Australian Ballet (Sydney), 175

Australian Butterfly Sanctuary
(Kuranda), 292

Australian Chamber Orchestra
(Sydney), 175

Australian Cinematheque
(Brisbane), 253

Australian Formula One Grand
Prix (Melbourne), 39

The Australian Geographic Shop
(Melbourne), 635

Australian Geographic (Sydney),
173

Australian Golf Tours, 70

Australian Institute of Sport
(AIS; Canberra), 696

Australian Koala Foundation, 63

Australian Museum (Sydney), 159

Australian National Botanic
Gardens (Acton), 700

Australian National Maritime
Museum (Sydney), 152

The Australian (newspaper), 72

Australian Opal Cutters
(Sydney), 174

Australian Outback Spectacular
(Oxenford), 365, 366

Australian Pearling Exhibition
(Darwin), 426

Australian Pinnacle Tours,
452–453

Australian Prospectors & Miners
Hall of Fame (Kalgoorlie-
Boulder), 518

Australian Reptile Park (Sydney),
155

Australian School of
Mountaineering (Katoomba),
186

Australian Stockman's Hall of
Fame & Outback Heritage
Centre (Longreach), 378–379

Australian Surf Life Saving
Championships (Kurrawa
Beach), 39

Australian War Memorial
(Canberra), 696–697

Australia Zoo (Beerwah),
357–358

Auswalk, 70

Auto clubs, 50

Automobile Association of the
Northern Territory (Darwin),
388–389

Ayers Rock, 412

Ayers Rock Observatory, 415

Ayers Rock Resort Visitor Centre,
408

B

Backtracker pass, 53

Bait Reef, 279, 280

Bali Hai Island, 279

Ballarat, 659–664

Ballarat Botanical Gardens, 660

Balloon Aloft (Cessnock), 200

Balmain Market (Sydney), 173

Balmain (Sydney), 101

Balmoral (Sydney), 159

The Barossa, 570–574

Barossa Farmers Markets, 573

Barracuda Pass, 277

Barrier Reef Dive, Cruise &
Travel, 319

Barrington Tops National Park, 212

Barron Falls, 290

Barron River, 293

Bartholomew's Meadery
(Denmark), 511

The Basement (Sydney), 177

The Basin (Sydney), 163

Batemans Bay, 223

Bathurst, 194–195

Beaches. See also specific
beaches
best, 9

Beagle Bay, 546

Beaver Cay, 278

Beck's Music Box (Perth), 484

Bed & breakfasts (B&Bs), 74–75.
See also Accommodations
Index

Beech Forest, 666

Beechworth, 673

Beer, 36

Beerenberg Strawberry Farm
(Hahndorf), 569

Belinda (Sydney), 172

Bellarine Peninsula, 651–653

Bellavista Social Club
(Melbourne), 639

Bells Beach, 666

Belongil Beach (Byron Bay), 214

Belvoir Street Theatre (Sydney),
175

Ben Boyd National Park, 225

Bennetts Lane Jazz Club
(Melbourne), 639

Berry Farm, 499

Bert Bolle Barometer (Denmark),
510

Bevan's Black Opal & Cactus
Nursery (Lightning Ridge),
234–235

Bibbulmun Track, 505, 510

Bicentennial Park (Sydney), 162

Big Banana Theme Park (Coffs
Harbour), 208
Big Cat Green Island Reef
Cruises, 289
Big Pineapple (near Nambour),
357
Biking and mountain biking

Adelaide, 564
Alice Springs, 396
Brisbane, 256–257
Canberra, 701
Encounter Bikeway, 576
Melbourne, 632
Mudgee, 196
Perth, 460, 480–481
Pokolbin and Hunter Valley,
198
Rail Trail (Bright), 674
Rottnest Island, 486
Sydney, 167
tours, 68

The Billabong Koala and Wildlife
Park (Port Macquarie), 207
Billabong Sanctuary (near
Townsville), 321
Billich (Sydney), 170
Billy tea and damper, 395
Bimberi Peak, 700
Birds and bird-watching, 29,
68–69

Alice Springs Desert Park,
393
Broome, 544
Fogg Dam Conservation
Reserve, 438–439
Kuranda, 292
Mutton Bird Island, 209

Birdwood, 568
Birdworld (Kuranda), 292
Birrarung Marr (Melbourne), 631
Birrigai Rock Shelter, 700
Blackall Ranges, 358
Black and Knuckle Reefs, 279
Blackheath, 192–193
Black Mountain Tower
(Canberra), 697
Black Queen (Lightning Ridge),
235
Black Swan State Theatre
Company (Perth), 483
Blood on the Southern Cross
(Ballarat), 660, 662
Blue bottles (stingers), 31, 157
The Blue Mountains, 182–196
Blue Mountains Adventure
Company (Katoomba), 186
Blue Mountains Walkabout, 186
Blue Pearl Bay, 279
The Blues Train (Queenscliff),
652
Blue Wren Wines (Mudgee), 196
Boat tours, rentals and charters,

44. See also specific
destinations


Adelaide River, 439
Albany, 507–508
Ballarat, 670–671


GENERAL


GENERAL INDEX

Boat tours, rentals and charters

(cont.)

Batemans Bay, 223
Brisbane, 255
Brisbane River, 252
Canberra, 701
Darwin, 426
Eyre Peninsula, 591
Great Barrier Reef, 276
Katherine Gorge, 446
Kimberley Coast, 547–548
Kuranda Riverboat Tours, 292
Narooma, 224
St. Helena Island, 266
Shark Bay, 525
the Sunshine Coast, 356
Sydney, 164, 165–166
Thomson River, 379
The West Coast (Tasmania),

732–734
the Whitsunday Coast and
islands, 330

BOCS (Perth), 483
Bondi & the Southern Beaches
(Sydney), 100

accommodations, 125
beach, 157
restaurants, 142–143

Bondi Explorer buses (Sydney),

104, 106
Bondi Hotel (Sydney), 178
Bondi Icebergs Club (Sydney),

168
Bondi Markets (Sydney), 173
Bonnet Island Experience, 733
Bonorong Wildlife Park (Hobart),

710
Booderee National Park, 220
Boodjamulla (Lawn Hill) National

Park, 384
Books, recommended, 34–35
Bootleg Brewery (Wilyabrup),

504
Boranup Drive, 499
Border Trail, 375
Botanic Gardens (Adelaide), 562
Botany Bay National Park, 212
Bothwell, 718
Bottle House (Lightning Ridge),

235
Bottom of the Harbour Antiques

(Sydney), 170
Boulder Town Hall, 519–520
Bournda National Park, 225
The Bowery (Brisbane), 262
Brambuk Aboriginal Cultural

Centre (Grampians National

Park), 680
Brass Monkey (Perth), 484
Breakfast Creek Hotel, pub at

(Brisbane), 261
Bridal Veil Falls, 192
Bridge Climb

Brisbane, 257
Sydney, 149


Bright, 674

Brisbane, 236–267

accommodations, 243–248
arriving in, 237–238
business hours, 242
consulates, 242–243
currency exchange, 242
emergencies, 243
exploring, 251–256
"Five in One" card, 253
getting around, 241–242
hospitals, 243
Internet access, 243
layout of, 238–239
neighborhoods in brief, 240
nightlife, 259–262
pharmacies, 243
police, 243
restaurants, 249–251
safety, 243
shopping, 258–259
street maps, 240
time zone, 243
visitor information, 238
weather forecast, 243

Brisbane Arcade, 258
Brisbane Botanic Gardens at

Mount Coot-tha, 251–252
Brisbane City Walk, 255
Brisbane Jazz Club, 262
Brisbane Powerhouse Arts

(Brisbane), 260
Britz Campervans (Sydney), 108
Broadway on the Mall

(Brisbane), 258
Broken Heads Nature Reserve, 214
Broken Hill, 230–233
Broken Hill Regional Art Gallery,

231
Bronte (Sydney), 157
Broome, 539–545
Broome Bird Observatory, 544
Broome Crocodile Park

(Broome), 543
Bruny Wildlife Adventure

(Hobart), 712
BTS Tours, 304
Buchan Caves, 675
Buley Rockhole, 434
Bundaberg, 279, 346–348
Bundeena (Sydney), 163–164
Bungee jumping

Kuranda, 293

Bungle Bungle (Bungle Bungle;

Purnululu) National Park, 539
Bunker Group, 279
Burswood/East Perth, 458
Burswood International Resort

Casino (Perth), 485
Bush Mail Run (Broken Hill), 232
Bushrangers Cave, 195
Bushwalking. See Hiking
Business hours, 735
Bus passes, 54
Busselton Jetty, 497
Bus travel, 54
Byron Bay, 211, 213–216
Byron Bay Eco Tours, 214

C

Cable Beach, 540, 542
Cadmans Cottage (Sydney), 163
Cairns, 281–300

day trips to the Reef from,

284–286
diving the Reef from, 280
exploring the islands near,

288–289
getting around, 284
layout of, 284
nightlife, 300
restaurants, 299–300
sights and attractions,

286–288
traveling to, 282–284
visitor information, 284

Cairns Night Zoo tours, 287
Cairns Tropical Zoo, 287
Cairns Wildlife Dome, 287
Calendar of events, 39–40
Calgardup Cave, 498
Camel Cup (Alice Springs), 392
Camel safaris and rides, 68, 396,

412, 542
Canberra, 685–702

accommodations, 691–693
business hours, 690
currency exchange, 690
embassies and consulates,

690
emergencies, 690
getting around, 689
hospitals, 690
Internet access, 690
layout of, 688–689
nightlife, 701–702
outdoor pursuits, 701–702
pharmacies, 690
post office, 691
restaurants, 693–696
sights and attractions, 696
traveling to, 686, 688
visitor information, 688

Canberra Deep Space

Communication Complex, 697
Canberra Glassworks, 699
Canberra Museum and Gallery,

697
The Cancer Council (Sydney),

174
Canoeing, 69, 164, 446
Cape Byron Lighthouse, 214
Cape Conran Coastal Park, 682
Cape du Couedic, 584
Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse, 498
Cape Naturaliste Lighthouse,

497–498
Cape Otway Lightstation, 666
Cape Range National Park, 527
Cape Shanck Coastal Park, 653
Cape Tribulation, 303, 304
Cape Woolamai, 649
Capital Theatre (Sydney),

175–176
Capricorn Caves, 341


The Capricorn Coast, 340–349
Captain Cook Cruises

Perth, 480
Sydney, 165


Carbonfund, 63
Cargo Bar & Lounge (Sydney), 178
Carnarvon National Park, 23
Car racing

Melbourne, 633

Car rentals, 47–48

eco-friendly, 62

Car travel, 46–52
Cascade Brewery Tours (Hobart),
710
Casinos

Adelaide, 567
Brisbane, 261–262
Cairns, 300
Canberra, 702
Darwin, 433
the Gold Coast, 372
Melbourne, 642
Perth, 485
Star City (Pyrmont), 180

The Cassowary Coast, 311–318
Castle Hill, 321
Castle Rock (dive site), 277
Cataract Gorge, 726
The Cathedrals (dive site), 277
The Cathedrals (Fraser Island),

352
Caversham Wildlife Park,

489–490
Caves Beach, 221
CaveWorks, 498
Caving, 69
The Cedars (Hahndorf), 570
Cellphones, 71, 735
Centennial Park (Sydney), 162
Central Australian Aviation

Museum (Alice Springs), 394
Central Craft (Alice Springs),

394
Central Markets (Adelaide), 565
Central Station (Sydney), 96,

99–100

restaurant near, 137

Central Tilba, 224, 226
Centrepoint Tower (Sydney

Tower), 154
Chaise Lounge (Melbourne), 639
Champagne Pools (Fraser

Island), 352
Charters Towers, 322
Chinatown, 540, 541
Chinese Garden (Sydney), 152
Churchill Island Heritage Farm

(Phillip Island), 649
Cicciolina Back Bar (Melbourne),

639
Cinemas. See Movies
Circular Quay (Sydney), 98

accommodations, 115–118
restaurants near, 127–132

City Hopper (Sydney), 104
City Host information kiosks
(Sydney), 97

CityRail (Sydney), 106–107
Civic (Sydney), 177
Clare Valley, 574
Cleland Wildlife Park, 570
Climate, 28, 38
Climate Action Certification

Program, 61
Clovelly (Sydney), 158
Coastal Adventure Tours,

528, 530
Cobblers Beach (Sydney), 158
Cochrane artificial reef, 279
The Cockle Train, 575–576
Cod Hole (dive site), 276
Coffin Bay, 588
Coffin Bay Explorer, 589–590
Coffin Bay National Park, 590
Coffs Harbour, 208–211
Cohunu Koala Park (Perth),

471–472
Coles Bay, 723
Coles (Sydney), 173
Collect (Sydney), 171
Collette Dinnigan (Sydney), 172
Columbian Hotel (Sydney), 177
Combo Waterhole Conservation

Park (Winton), 380–381
Connections Safaris, 389
Conrad Jupiters Casino

(Broadbeach), 372
Contiki, 66
The Convent (Daylesford),

657–658
Coober Pedy, 598–600
Coogee (Sydney), 158
Cook and Phillip Park (Sydney),

168
Cookie (Melbourne), 639
Cooks' Cottage (Melbourne), 631
Cool Climate, 63
Coolgardie, 517, 520
The Coorong, 600–601
Coorong National Park, 600
Coot-tha, Mount, 250–252
Coral Bay, 527
The Coral Coast, 522–531
Coral Sea, 276–277
Coral Sea Kayaking, 314, 315
Corio Bay, 651
Corroboree Rock, 405
Cosmic Skydome (Brisbane),

254
Cottesloe Beach, 458, 475
Counter (Melbourne), 635
Countrylink, 52
Countrylink trains (Sydney), 107
Cowell, 588
Cowell Jade, 590
Cowes, 648
Cradle Mountain, 730–732
Craigmoor (Mudgee), 196
Creative Jewellers (Darwin), 427
Creative Native (Perth), 482
Credit cards, 55–56
Cricket, 169, 565, 633
Crime and safety, 58
Croajingolong, 682–683

Crocodiles, 30, 288, 438,
439, 543
Crocodylus Park & Zoo (Darwin),

425
Crocosaurus Cove (Darwin), 427
Croft Institute (Melbourne), 640
Cronulla (Sydney), 164
Crown Casino (Melbourne), 642
Cruise Whitsundays, 330
Cullen Wines (Cowaramup), 497
Currency and currency

exchange, 55
Currency Creek, 575
Currumbin Wildlife Sanctuary,

368
Customs regulations, 42–43
Cyclones, 57

D

D'Aguilar National Park
(formerly Brisbane Forest
Park), 257

Daintree Discovery Centre, 303
Daintree National Park, 303–305
Daintree Rainforest, 289
Daintree River, 304
Dampier Peninsula, 546
Dandenong Ranges, 642–645
Dan Irby's Mangrove Adventures,

304–305
Darling Harbour (Sydney), 98

accommodations, 121
restaurants, 138
sights and attractions, 152

Darlinghurst (Sydney), 99

restaurants, 139–140

Darrell Lea Chocolates (Sydney),
173
Darwin, 421–435

accommodations, 428–431
exploring, 424–427
getting around, 424
layout of, 422, 424
nightlife, 433–434
restaurants, 431–433
shopping, 427–428
tours, 424
traveling to, 422
visitor information, 422

Darwin Military Museum,

425–426
Darwin Sailing Club, 433
David Fleay Wildlife Park (West

Burleigh), 368–369
David Jones, 171, 172, 635
Davis, Merrick, 356
Daylesford, 657–658
Deckchair Cinema (Darwin), 433
Deep Sea Divers Den (Cairns),

281
Deerubbun (Sydney), 151
Denham, 523
Denmark, 505, 509–513
Diamonds, 536–537
Di Croco (Darwin), 427–428
Didgeridoo, 34

GENERAL


GENERAL INDEX

Dilkes-Hoffman Ceramics (near
Margaret River), 500
Dingoes, 29

Fraser Island, 352

Dinosaur Designs (Melbourne),
636
Dinosaurs, 381

Broome, 542

Disabilities, travelers with, 59
Discovery Climb (Sydney), 149
Discovery Ecotours, 389, 395,

410, 411, 415
Dive Musgrave, 346
Dive Queensland, 67
The Divers Alert Network, 67
Diversion Dive Travel, 67
Dolphin Discovery Centre

(Bunbury), 494
Dolphin Eco Cruises, 494
Dolphins, 267, 494
Dolphin-watching, 205, 221,

524–525
Done Art and Design (Sydney),

171
Dorrigo National Park, 210
Dorrigo Rainforest Centre, 210
Double Happiness (Melbourne),

640
Dragon's teeth, 453
Drayton Family Wines

(Pokolbin), 199
Dreamtime Cultural Centre (near

Rockhampton), 341–342
Dreamtime stories, 26
Dreamworld (Coomera),

366–367
Driving rules, 49
Dromedary, Mount (Gulaga),

224, 226
Drought since 1992, 29
Dunk Island, 311, 315–316
Dynamite Pass (dive site), 276

E

Eagle Street Pier Art & Craft

Markets (Brisbane), 259
Earthwatch, 65
East Alligator River, 439–440
East Coast Blues & Roots

Festival (Byron), 213
East Coast Discovery rail pass, 53
Eastern Beach, 651
East MacDonnell Ranges,

405–407
Eating and drinking, 35–36
Echidna Chasm, 540
Echo Point Road, 187
Echuca, 671, 673
Eco Certification logo, 61
Eco Directory, 61
Ecotourism Australia, 61
Ecotours

the Whitsunday Coast and
islands, 334

Eden, 225
Eden Killer Whale Museum, 225

The Edge Cinema (Katoomba),

188
E.g.etal (Melbourne), 636–637
Elderhostel, 60
Electricity, 735
Eli Creek, 352
Elizabeth Bay House (Sydney),

159
Ellery Creek Big Hole, 403
Ellington Jazz Club (Perth), 485
Elliston's Great Ocean Drive, 590
El Questro Wilderness Park, 535,

537
Embassies and consulates,

735–736
Emergencies, 736
Emergency breakdown

assistance, 52
Emily Gap, 405
Encounter Coast Discovery

Centre and Old Customs and
Station Masters House (Victor
Harbor), 576

Entry requirements, 41–43
The environment, threats to,
31–32
Escorted general interest tours,

66
The Esplanade (Darwin), 424
The Establishment (Sydney), 178
Eumundi Markets, 358
Eureka Skydeck 88 (Melbourne),

625
Eureka Uprising (Ballarat), 662
Exmouth, 527
Exploritas, 60
Express Climb (Sydney), 149
Extreme weather exposure, 57
Eyre Peninsula, 587–594

F

Falls Creek, 678–680
Falls Reserve, 191
Families with children, 59–60

suggested itinerary, 83–85

Family Funday Sunday (Sydney),

104
Fannie Bay, 425
Fantasea Cruises, 330, 332, 333
Farm Gate Guide, 64
Farmstays, 75
Far Out Adventures, 420, 446,

447
Fatigue, 50
Featherdale Wildlife Park

(Sydney), 155
Federation Square (Melbourne),
626
The Female Factory Historic Site
(Hobart), 711
Finders Keepers Prospecting
Adventures (Boulder), 520
Finders Keepers Super Pit Tours
(Kalgoorlie-Boulder), 519
Fine Feather Tours, 69, 305

Finke Gorge National Park,
404–405
Fire-Works Gallery (Brisbane),

258
Fish, 30
Fishing, 69

Albany, 514
Alpine National Park, 676
Broome, 543–544
Darwin, 426–427
Exmouth area, 529–530
Kakadu National Park,

441–442
Kuranda, 293
Rottnest, 486–487
the Whitsunday Coast and

islands, 333–334

Fitzroy Gardens (Melbourne),

631
Fitzroy Island, 277, 289
Fitzroy River, 547
Fleurieu Peninsula, 575–579
Flightseeing (airplane and

helicopter tours)

Dorrigo Rainforest Centre,

210
Kakadu National Park, 441
Katherine Gorge, 447
Kings Canyon, 406
Perth, 480
Sydney, 166
Uluru-Kata Tjuta National

Park, 412
Western Australia, 453
the Whitsunday Coast and

islands, 333

Flinders Chase National Park,
584
Flinders Discovery Centre

(Hughenden), 381
The Flinders Ranges, 595–598
Flinders Reef, 278
Floods, 51
Florence Falls, 434
Floriade (Canberra), 40
Flour Cask Bay Sanctuary, 586
Fogg Dam Conservation

Reserve, 438–439
Food and wine trips, 64–65
Football (Australian Rules)

Adelaide, 565
Melbourne, 633


Football (rugby league)

Sydney, 169

Fort Denison (Sydney), 145, 162
Fort Queenscliff, 651–652
The Forts (Magnetic Island), 324
Forty-Mile Beach, 357
Four Mile Beach, 306
Four Park Pass, 288
Four-wheel-driving and tours, 52
Fox Galleries (Karridale), 500
Foxglove Spires (Tilba Tilba),

226
Francois Peron National Park,
523, 526
Frankland Islands, 277


Fraser Island, 349–353
Fraser Island Great Walk, 353
Fremantle Airport Shuttle, 456
Fremantle Arts Centre, 478
Fremantle Markets, 478
Fremantle (Perth), 458, 476–480

accommodations, 465–466

restaurants, 470–471

Fremantle Prison, 479
Fremantle Trams, 478
Freycinet National Park, 723–725
Friday's (Brisbane), 261
The Friend in Hand (Sydney), 178

G

Gallery Gabrielle Pizzi
(Melbourne), 634–635

Gallery Gondwana (Alice
Springs), 397

Garnamarr Campground, 443

Gasoline, 49, 736

Gas stations, 51

Gavala Aboriginal Art & Cultural
Education Centre (Sydney),
170

Gawler Ranges, 588, 590

Gay & Lesbian Counselling and
Community Service of NSW,
59

Gays and lesbians
Sydney, 39, 176–177

Gecko Canoeing, 69, 446

Geelong, 651

Geikie Gorge, 546

Gemopal Pottery (Lightning
Ridge), 235

George Brown Darwin Botanic
Gardens (Darwin), 424–425

George's Gold Mine (near Coffs
Harbour), 210

Geraldton, 524

Ghost Tours
Brisbane, 256
St. Helena Island, 266

Giants Cave, 498

Gibb River Road (Broome),
540, 546

Gilligan's & Ginger's (Sydney),
177

Ginga, 438

Gippsland, 682–684

Gladstone, 344

Glass House Mountains, 359

Glebe (Sydney), 100
accommodations, 124–125
restaurant, 140

Gleebooks Bookshop (Sydney),
171

Glengarry opal fields, 234

Glen Helen Gorge, 403

Glenrowan, 673

Global Gypsies, 453

Gloucester Tree, 513–514

Glow Worm Tunnel, 212

The Gold Coast, 362–377
beaches, 365
getting around, 365

hinterland of, 372–377
orientation, 364
seasons, 365
theme park passes, 366
theme parks, 365–368
traveling to, 362, 364
visitor information, 364
wildlife parks and other
attractions, 368–369

Golden Quest Discovery Trail,
520
The Goldfields, 516–522
Goldfields Exhibition Museum
(Coolgardie), 520
Goldfields Water Supply
Scheme, 516
The Gold Museum (Ballarat), 662
Golf, 69–70

Adelaide, 564
Alice Springs, 397
Broken Hill, 233
Coober Pedy, 600
near Kalgoorlie, 520
Melbourne, 632
Merimbula, 225
Narooma, 224
Perth, 481
Port Douglas, 306
Sydney, 167
the Whitsunday Coast and
islands, 334

Gomboc Gallery and Sculpture
Park (Middle Swan), 490
Gonewalking (Brisbane), 256
Goods and Services Tax (GST),
111
Goolwa, 575
Goulburn, 219
Goulds Book Arcade (Sydney),
171
Government House (Sydney), 161
Grampians National Park,
680–682
Granite Island Nature Park, 576
Grape Escape, 64
Grawin opal fields, 234
Great Adventures, 284–285, 289
Great Barrier Reef, 31, 64

choosing a gateway to the,
274
day trips to, 274–275,
302–303. See also specific
ports of departure

diving, 279–281
exploring, 272–279
health and safety warnings,
274
kinds of reef on, 272–273
major sites, 275–279

Great Barrier Reef Marine Park,
277
Great Keppel Island, 342–344
The Great Ocean Road, 664–669
Great Sandy National Park,
356–357
Great Southern Distilling
Company (Albany), 506–507

Great Southern Rail, 52
Green Directory, 61
Greenhotels, 63
Green Island, 277, 288
Greenpatch, 221
Green Star rating, 62
Green Travel Guide, 61
Greyhound Australia, 54
Grose Valley, 192
Guildford Village Potters, 490
Gulaga (Mount Dromedary), 226
The Gulflander, 383
Gundagai, 219
Gunlom Falls, 442

H

Hahndorf, 569
Haigh's Chocolates (Melbourne),
636
Haigh's Chocolates Visitors
Centre (Adelaide), 563
Half-Tix Desk (Melbourne), 638
Halls Gap, 680
Hamelin Pool Historic Telegraph
Station, 525
Hamilton Island Golf Club, 334
Hanging Rock Reserve
(Woodend), 655
Happs Vineyard and Pottery
(Dunsborough), 500
Harbour Jet (Sydney), 151–152
Harry's Bommie, 277
Hartley's Crocodile Adventures
(near Cairns), 288
Hastings area, 275
Hayden Orpheum Picture Palace
(Sydney), 180
Hazards Beach, 723
The Heads (Sydney), 145
Healesville Sanctuary, 646
Health concerns, 57–58

Great Barrier Reef, 274

Heartbreak Trail, 513
Henley-on-Todd Regatta (Alice
Springs), 40, 392
Hepburn Bathhouse & Spa
(Daylesford), 657
Heritage & Interpretive Tours,
304
Heritage Highway, 724
Heritage Market (Kuranda), 291
Her Majesty's Theatre (Sydney),
176
Hermannsburg Historical
Precinct, 404
Heron Island, 345–347
Hero of Waterloo Hotel
(Sydney), 178
Herveys Range Heritage Tea
Rooms (near Townsville), 325
Heysen Trail, 564
Hi-Fi Bar & Ballroom
(Melbourne), 640
The High Country, 675–680
High 'n' Wild, 185
High season, 38

GENERAL


GENERAL INDEX

Hiking (bushwalking), 67–68

Adelaide, 564
Alice Springs, 396
best places for, 11–12
the Blue Mountains, 185
Brisbane, 257
Fraser Island, 353
Kakadu National Park,

441–442
Katherine, 447
Magnetic Island, 324

His Majesty's Theatre and King
Street (Perth), 472
His Majesty's Theatre (Perth),

483
History of Australia, 22–27
Hobart, 707–719

accommodations, 713–716
cruises, 712
exploring, 708–712
getting around, 708
layout of, 708
nightlife, 718–719
restaurants, 716–718
shopping, 712–713
traveling to, 707–708
visitor information, 708

Holbrook, 219
Hole in the Wall Beach, 220
Holidays, 736
Homebush Bay (Sydney), 101
HomeLink International, 75
Home (Sydney), 176
Horseback riding, 70

Alpine National Park, 676
Blackheath, 192
Dorrigo Rainforest Centre,

210
Port Douglas, 306
the Snowy Mountains, 229

Horse racing

Melbourne, 633–634
Sydney, 169

Hot-air ballooning

Alice Springs, 396
Hunter Valley, 200
Melbourne, 632


Hotham, Mount, 677–678
Houghton Wines (Middle Swan),

489
House-swapping, 75
Howard Park Winery (near

Scotsdale), 510
Hughenden, 381
Hundred Acre Swamp (Valley of

the Mist), 209
Hunter Valley, 197–204
Hunter Valley Cheese Company

(Pokolbin), 198
Hunter Valley Smelly Cheese
Shop (Pokolbin), 198
Hunter Valley Wine Society

(Pokolbin), 198
Hunter Vineyard Tours, 200
Huskisson, 221
Hyams Beach, 220
Hybrid cars, 62

Hyde Park Barracks Museum

(Sydney), 153
Hyde Park (Sydney), 162
Hyundai Hopman Cup

(Perth), 39

I

The Ian Potter Centre

(Melbourne), 626
Ilfracombe, 379–380
IMAX Theatre

Melbourne, 626
Sydney, 152–153


Imperial Cave, 193
Indian Head (Fraser Island), 352
Indigenart (Perth), 482
Injalak Arts and Crafts

(Gunbalanya), 440
In-line skating, 167, 258
"Inside Australia" sculptures,

520
Insurance, 736

car-rental, 47–48

The International Gay and
Lesbian Travel Association
(IGLTA), 59

International Student Identity
Card (ISIC), 60
International Student Travel
Confederation (ISTC), 60
International Youth Travel Card

(IYTC), 61
Internet access, 72
InTouch U.S.A., 71
Irukandji, 30
Itineraries, suggested, 76–92
The Ivy (Sydney), 178–179
IYTC (International Youth Travel

Card), 61

J

Jacobs Creek Visitor Centre
(Rowland Flat), 572
Japanese pearl divers' cemetery

(Broome), 540, 542
Japingka Gallery (Perth), 483
Jazz Fremantle, 485
Jellyfish, 30–31
Jenolan Caves, 193–194
Jervis Bay, 220–221
Jessie Gap, 405
Jet boat tours, Sydney, 151–152
Jet-skiing

Magnetic Island, 324

Jewel Cave, 498
Jim Jim Falls, 442–443
Jimmy Watson's Wine Bar

(Melbourne), 640
Jindabyne, 227
Jock's Place (White Cliffs), 232
John Miller Design (near

Dunsborough), 500
Jonathan Hook Studio
(Denmark), 510
Julian Rocks, 214

K

Kailis Jewellery (Perth), 482
Kakadu National Park, 435–444
Kalgoorlie-Boulder, 516–522
Kalgoorlie Race Round, 519
Kalgoorlie Town Hall, 519
Kangaroo Island, 579–587
Kangaroos, 29

on the road between Shark
Bay and Exmouth, 527
as road hazard, 50–51

Karri Forest Explorer Drive, 513
Kata Tjuta (the Olgas), 412–413
Katherine, 445–453
Katherine Gorge (Nitmiluk

National Park), 446–447
Katherine Hot Springs, 448
Katherine Visitor Information

Centre, 445
Katoomba, 186–191
Kayaking, 69

Brisbane, 258
Dunk Island, 315–316
Mission Beach, 314–315
the Sunshine Coast, 356
Sydney, 164
the Whitsunday Coast and

islands, 334–335

Ken Duncan Gallery (Sydney),
171
Kershaw Gardens

(Rockhampton), 342
Kiama, 219
Kilometre Pass, 54
The Kimberley, 531–539
Kimberley Birdwatching, Wildlife

& Natural History Tours, 69

Kinaba Information Centre
(Great Sandy National Park),
357

Kingfisher Ferry, 350
KingPin (Melbourne), 640
Kings Canyon, 405–407
Kingscote, 587
Kings Creek bed, 406
Kings Cross & the Suburbs

Beyond (Sydney), 98

accommodations, 122–123
restaurants, 139–140

Kings Park & Botanic Garden

(Perth), 452, 472–473
Kirrama Wildlife Tours, 69
Koala Conservation Centre

(Phillip Island), 649
Koala Park Sanctuary (Sydney),
155–156
Koalas, 28, 63

culling, 585
Kuranda Koala Gardens, 292

Koppio Smithy Museum, 590
Kosciuszko National Park, 227,
229

Kronosaurus Korner Marine
Fossil Museum (Richmond),
381

KuKu-Yalanji Dreamtime, 305


Kununurra, 535–539
Kuranda, 289–292

accommodations, 293–299
outdoor activities, 293

Kuranda Arts Co-Operative,

291–292
Kuranda Koala Gardens, 292
Kuranda Original Rainforest

Markets, 291
Kuranda Riverboat Tours, 292
Kuranda Scenic Railway, 290–291
Kuranda Wildlife Experience

pass, 288
Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park
(Sydney), 163
Ku-ring-gai Wildflower Garden
(Sydney), 163
Kurrajong Campsite (Broome),
540
Kyneton, 655

L

La Boite Theatre (Brisbane), 260
Lady Elliot Island, 279, 348–349
Lady Jane Bay (Sydney), 158
Lady Lux (Sydney), 176
Lady Musgrave Island, 279
Lake Cave, 498
Lake House (off Mount

Shadforth), 511
Lamington National Park, 373,

374–375
Langhorne Creek, 575
Langtrees 181 (Kalgoorlie-

Boulder), 519
Larapinta Walking Trail, 396,

402
Lark Quarry, 381
Lathami Conservation Park, 585
Latrobe's Cottage (Melbourne),

631
Launceston, 725–730
Lavandula, 658
Leeuwin Concert Series

(Margaret River), 496
Leeuwin Estate (Margaret River),

497
Legal aid, 736–737
Leliyn (Edith Falls), 447
Leura, 191
Leura Mall, 191
Licuala Fan Palm, 314
Lightning Ridge, 233–235
Light Reef, 277
Lincoln National Park, 591
Lindemans Hunter River Winery

(Pokolbin), 199
Linneys (Perth), 482
Litchfield Park (near Darwin),

434
Literature, 34–35
Living Desert Nature Park (near

Broken Hill), 233
Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary (Fig
Tree Pocket), 252
Longreach, 377–380

Longreach School of Distance

Education, 379
Lord Dudley Hotel (Sydney), 179
Lord Nelson Hotel (Sydney), 179
Lord's Kakadu & Arnhemland

Safaris, 421
Lorne, 666
Lower Hunter, 197
Low Isles, 277–278, 303
Low season, 38
Lucas Cave, 193
Luna Park (Sydney), 148

M

MacDonnell Ranges, 390
The Macedon Ranges, 654–657
McGuigan Brothers Cellars

(Pokolbin), 199
McKenzie, Lake, 351–352
McLaren Vale, 575
McWilliams Mount Pleasant

Winery (Pokolbin), 199
Maggie Beer's Farm Shop

(Tanunda), 574
Magic Cave, 276
Magnetic Island, 318–321,

323–326
Mail, 737
Mail Run (Coober Pedy), 599
Main Beach

Byron, 214
the Gold Coast, 365


Maits Rest Rainforest Boardwalk,
666

Malcolm Douglas Wilderness
Wildlife Park (near Broome),
543

Maleny, 359
Malmsbury, 655
Malmsbury Botanic Gardens, 655
Mammoth Cave, 498
Mamukala wetlands, 442
Mamu Rainforest Canopy

Walkway (Wooronooran
National Park), 314
Manly & the Northern Beaches
(Sydney), 100

accommodations, 126–127
beach, 158
restaurants, 143–144

Manly Fast Ferry (Sydney), 106
Manly to Spit Bridge Scenic
Walkway (Sydney), 162
Manly Visitors Information

Centre (Sydney), 97
Mantaray Bay, 279
Manyallaluk Aboriginal

community, 447
Mapleton-Maleny Road, 359
Maps, 50
Marble Bar (Sydney), 179
Margaret River, 493–504
Margaret River Chocolate

Company

Metricup, 499
West Swan, 489


Margaret River Dairy Company,
499–500
Margaret River Regional Wine

Centre, 498
Margaret River Venison, 499
Maria Island, 720–721
Marineland Melanesia (Green

Island), 288
Maritime Museum of Tasmania

(Hobart), 708, 710
Market City (Sydney), 174
Mary Cairncross Park, 359
MasterCard

traveler's checks, 56

Mataranka Thermal Pools, 448
Matilda Cruises (Sydney), 165
The Maze (dive site), 277
Mbantua Australian Aboriginal

Art Gallery and Cultural
Museum (Alice Springs),
397–398


MCA (Museum of Contemporary
Art; Sydney), 153–154
Medical requirements for

entry, 43
Medina Serviced Apartments, 74
Melba Gully State Park, 666
Melbourne, 602–658

accommodations, 610–618
arriving in, 602–605
business hours, 609
consulates, 609
doctors and dentists, 609
emergencies, 609
getting around, 607–609
Internet access, 609
layout of, 605–606
lost property, 609
neighborhoods, 606–607
nightlife, 639–642
outdoor activities, 632–633
performing arts, 637–639
pharmacies, 610
post office, 610
pubs, 641–642
restaurants, 618–625
safety, 610
shopping, 634–636
side trips from, 642–658
sights and attractions,

625–632
spectator sports, 633
taxes, 610
telephones, 610
visitor information, 605
weather forecasts, 610

Melbourne Aquarium, 626, 628
Melbourne Cup (Flemington), 40
Melbourne International Film

Festival, 637
Melbourne Museum, 628
Melbourne Supper Club

(Melbourne), 640
Melbourne Zoo, 628
The Mercantile (Sydney), 179
Merimbula, 225–227
Merimbula Jazz Festival, 227

GENERAL


GENERAL INDEX

Metro City (Perth), 484

Metropolis (Fremantle), 484

Michaelmas Cay, 277

The Migration Museum
(Adelaide), 563

Mildura, 670–673

Mimosa Rocks National Park,
225

Mindil Beach Sunset Market
(Darwin), 432

Mission Beach, 311–318
day trips to the Reef from,
278, 312

Misty (Melbourne), 640–641

Mitchell Falls, 546–547

Mitchell Plateau, 546

Mobile phones, 71, 735

MONA at Moorilla (Berriedale),
711

Money and costs, 55–57

Monkey Mia, 522

Mon Repos Conservation Park
(near Bundaberg), 347

Mon Repos Turtle Rookery (near
Bundaberg), 347

Montague Island, 224

Montville, 359

Moonlit Sanctuary (Pearcedale),
654

Moreton Bay and islands,
262–267

Moreton Island, 264–265

Mornington Peninsula, 653–654

Mossman Gorge, 304

Moss Wood (Willyabrup), 497

Motels and motor inns, 74

Motorcycle tours
the Blue Mountains, 188
Sydney, 166–167
Uluru-Kata Tjuta National
Park, 412

Motor homes, 48–49

Mount Coot-tha Aboriginal Art
Trail, 257

Mount Field National Park, 719

Mount Isa, 383–385

Mount Isa Rodeo, 383

Mount Lofty, 570

Mount Romance (Albany), 507

Mount Tamborine, 373–374

Mount Tomah Botanic Gardens,
188

Movies, 32–33
Melbourne, 639
Perth, 484
Sydney, 180

Mowanjum Aboriginal
Community, 546

Mrs. Macquarie's Chair (Sydney),
161

Mudgee, 196

Mumbulla Mountain, 224

Mungo National Park, 671

Murphy's Haystacks, 591

Murramarang National Park, 222

Murray Lagoon, 585

Murray River, 669–674

Murwillumbah, 216–219

Museum and Art Gallery of the
Northern Territory (Darwin),
425

Museum of Australian
Democracy at Old Parliament
House (Canberra), 697–698

Museum of Brisbane, 252

Museum of Central Australia
(Alice Springs), 394

Museum of Contemporary Art
(MCA; Sydney), 153–154

Museum of Economic Botany
(Adelaide), 562–563

Museum of Sydney, 159–160

Museum of Tropical Queensland
(Townsville), 320

Museums
best, 14–15

Music, 34
Mutawintji National Park, 232
Mutton Bird Island, 209
Myall Lakes National Park, 212
Mybus ticket (Sydney), 104
Myer

Melbourne, 635

Sydney, 171

Myer Centre

Adelaide, 565

Brisbane, 258

MyFerry ticket (Sydney), 106
MyMulti ticket (Sydney), 101

N

Namadgi National Park, 700

Namarrgon, 440

Nambour-Mapleton Road,
358–359

Nanguluwur, 440

Nant Estate (Bothwell), 718

Narooma, 224–225

Narooma Charters, 224

Narryna Heritage Museum
(Hobart), 708

National Archives of Australia
(Canberra), 698

National Capital Exhibition
(Canberra), 698

National Film and Sound Archive
(Canberra), 698

National Gallery of Australia
(Canberra), 698

National Gallery of Victoria
International (Melbourne), 628

National Information
Communication Awareness
Network, 59

National Motor Museum
(Birdwood), 568

National Museum of Australia
(Canberra), 698–699

National Parks & Wildlife Centre
(Sydney), 97

National Park Shop (Blackheath),
184

National Pass Walk, 191–192

National Portrait Gallery
(Canberra), 699

National Railway Museum
(Adelaide), 563

National Rhododendron Gardens
(Olinda), 644

National Roads and Motorists'
Association (NRMA; Sydney),
108

National Rose Garden of
Australia (Launceston), 728

National Sports Museum
(Melbourne), 628–629

National Trust Gift and
Bookshop (Sydney), 173

National Vietnam Veterans
Museum (Phillip Island), 649

The National Wine Centre of
Australia (Adelaide), 563

National Wool Museum
(Geelong), 652

National Zoo and Aquarium
(Canberra), 699

N'Dhala Gorge Nature Park, 404,
405

Ned Kelly country, 219, 672–673

Nelly Bay-Arcadia trail, 324

Nelson Bay, 204, 206

Net Reef, 279

Newhaven, 648

New Kuranda Markets, 291

New Norcia, 491–493

New South Wales, 181–235
getting around, 182
The Outback, 229–235, 671
visitor information, 181

Newspapers and magazines,
72, 737

Newstead House (Brisbane),
252–253

Newtown (Sydney), 100
accommodations, 124
restaurants, 140–142

New Year's Eve (Sydney), 40

Ngaro Sea Trail, 334

Ngilgi Cave, 499

Nimbin Shuttle, 214

Ningaloo, 522

Ningaloo Marine Park, 527

Ningaloo Safari Tours, 530

Nitmiluk National Park, 445

Nitmiluk Tours, 446

Nitmiluk Visitor Centre (near
Katherine), 445

The Nobbies, 649

Nobbies Centre, 649

Noosa Heads, 353, 354, 356,
360, 361

Noosa National Park, 356

Norman area, 275

Normanby Hotel, pub at
(Brisbane), 261

The north coast (Queensland),
311–327

Northern Territory Fishing Office
(Darwin), 426–427

The North Shore (Sydney), 100


North Stradbroke Island, 262,
264
North Stradbroke Island

Historical Museum, 262, 264
North Sydney, 100
North Sydney Olympic Pool, 168
Nourlangie Rock, 440
Nullarbor Links, 70, 520
Nursery Bommie (dive site), 277

O

OB1 Charters (Batemans Bay),

223
Ocean Free, 285
Ocean Spirit Cruises, 285–286
Oceanworld Manly (Sydney), 156
O'Connor, Charles Yelverton

(C. Y.), 516
Old Bus Depot Markets
(Canberra), 696
Old Ghan Museum & Road
Transport Hall of Fame (Alice
Springs), 395

Old Melbourne Gaol, 629
The Old Umbrella Shop

(Launceston), 726
The Olgas (Kata Tjuta), 412–413
Olio Bello (Cowaramup), 499
Opals

Adelaide, 565
Coober Pedy, 598, 599
Darwin, 427
Lightning Ridge, 233–234
Perth, 482
Sydney, 174

Opera Australia (Sydney), 175
Opera Queensland (Brisbane),

260
Oranje Tractor (Albany), 507
Ord River, 535, 536
Original & Authentic Aboriginal

Art

Melbourne, 635
Sydney, 170


Ormiston Gorge and Pound, 403
Orpheus Island, 326–327
Osprey Reef, 277
Ossa, Mount, 730
Otford (Sydney), 164
Oublier Reef, 279
The Outback, 27

best of, 8
clothing for, Sydney, 172
New South Wales, 229–235,

671
Queensland, 377–385
South Australia, 594–600

Outback@Isa (Mount Isa),
384–385
Outdoor adventures. See also
Active vacations

best, 5–6

Outdoor Heritage (Sydney), 172
Overnight Walker Registration
Scheme (Alice Springs), 396

Oxford Street (Sydney), 98–99

accommodations around,
123–124
shopping, 170

Oz Jet Boat (Sydney), 152

P

Pacific Highway, 206–218
Paddington Bazaar (Sydney), 173
Paddington/Oxford Street

(Sydney), 98–99
Paddington (Sydney)

restaurant, 140

Paddy's Markets (Sydney), 174
Palm Beach (Sydney), 158
Palm Valley, 405
Panorama Guth (Alice Springs),

395
Papunya Tula Artists (Alice
Springs), 397
Parap Markets (near Darwin),

432
Paris Cat (Melbourne), 641
Parliament House (Canberra),

699–701
Parliament House Victoria

(Melbourne), 629–630
Paspaley Pearls (Darwin), 427
Passports, 41
Pearl Luggers (Broome), 542
Pebbly Beach, 222
Pemberton, 505, 513–516
Pemberton Discovery Tour, 514
Pemberton Tram, 514
Penfolds (Nuriootpa), 572
Penguins, 585, 647, 650
Penneshaw Penguin Centre

(Kangaroo Island), 585
Pentland Alpaca Tourist Farm,

510
Peregrine Adventures, 421, 707
Perisher Blue, 228
Perisher Valley, 228
Perth, 449–485

accommodations, 461–466
active pursuits, 480–482
arriving in, 454, 456–457
beaches, 475–476
business hours, 460
consulates, 461
currency exchange, 460
doctors and dentists,

460–461
emergencies, 461
getting around, 458–460
hospitals, 461
layout of, 457
maps, 457
neighborhoods in brief, 458
nightlife, 483–484
pharmacies, 461
police, 461
restaurants, 466–471
safety, 461
shopping, 482–483
side trips from, 485–493

sights and attractions,

471–480
time zone, 461
visitor information, 457
weather forecasts, 461

Perth Concert Hall, 483
Perth International Arts Festival,


39, 483–484
Perth Jazz Society, 485
Perth Mint, 473
Perth Theatre Company, 483
Perth Writers Festival, 39
Perth Zoo, 473–474, 483
Peterson's Champagne House

(Pokolbin), 199
Peterson's Vineyard (Mount

View), 200
Petrol, 49, 736
Phillip Island, 647–651
Phillip Island Penguin Reserve,

650
Piners & Miners, 733–734
Pitt Street Mall (Sydney), 170
Pittwater (Sydney), 158
Platypuses, 28
Playground (dive site), 277
Plough Inn, pub at (Brisbane),

261
The Poachers Way, 694
Point Hicks Light Station, 683
Point Labatt Sea Lion Colony,

591
Pokolbin

accommodations, 201–203
restaurants, 203–204
wineries, 198–200

Police, 737
Population of Australia, 27–28
Port Arthur, 719–723
Port Arthur Historic Site, 721–722
Port Campbell National Park,

666–667
Port Douglas, 300–310

accommodations, 306–310
day trips to the Reef from,

277–278
diving the Reef from, 280
exploring the Reef and the

rainforest, 302–305
getting around, 302
restaurants, 310
traveling to, 302
visitor information, 302

Port Fairy, 667
Port Lincoln, 588
Port Macquarie, 207–208
Port Stephens, 204–206
Possums, 29
Powerhouse Farmers Markets

(Brisbane), 259
Powerhouse Museum (Sydney),
153
Princes Highway, south of

Sydney, 218–227
Princess Royal Fortress, 507
Pubs, 75

GENERAL


GENERAL INDEX

Puffing Billy Railway (Belgrave),
645
Purnululu (Bungle Bungle)
National Park, 539
Pylon Lookout (Sydney),
148–149
Pyndan Camel Tracks (Alice
Springs), 396

Q

Qantas Founders Museum

(Longreach), 379
Q Bar (Sydney), 176
Q1 Observation Deck (Surfers

Paradise), 369
Quay Deli (Sydney), 131
Queensland, 268–385

exploring the coast, 269, 272
north coast of, 311–327
the Outback, 377–385

Queensland Art Gallery
(Brisbane), 253
Queensland Cultural Centre

(Brisbane), 253
Queensland Explorer pass, 54
Queensland Gallery of Modern

Art (Brisbane), 253
Queensland Museum (Brisbane),
253–254

Queensland Performing Arts
Centre (QPAC; Brisbane),
253, 260

Queensland Symphony
Orchestra (Brisbane), 260
Queensland Theatre Company

(Brisbane), 260
Queensland Travel Centre, 269
Queen Victoria Building (QVB;

Sydney), 169–170
Queen Victoria Market
(Melbourne), 630

The Queen Victoria Museum &
Art Gallery (Launceston), 726

Questacon-The National Science
and Technology Centre
(Canberra), 701

Quest Serviced Apartments, 74
Quick Cat Cruises, 312, 315
Quicksilver Cruises, 286
Quicksilver Wavepiercer (Port

Douglas), 285, 302
Quilpie Opals (Perth), 482

R

Raging Thunder Adventures,

289, 293
Rail Australia, 53
Rail passes, 53
Rail Trail (Bright), 674
Raine Island, 276
Rainforestation Nature Park

(Kuranda), 292
Rainforest Habitat (near Port
Douglas), 305

Rainforests

Byron Bay, 214
Daintree National Park and

Cape Tribulation, 303–305
Dorrigo National Park, 210
Tamborine Rainforest

Skywalk, 374
Wet Tropics, 289


Raleigh International Raceway,

210
Randwick Racecourse, 169
Rascals in Paradise, 60
Ravenswood, 322
The Red Centre, 386–416
Redline Coaches, 54
R eef Casino (Cairns), 300
Reef HQ (Townsville), 320
Regatta Hotel, pub at (Brisbane),

261
Remote Outback Cycle Tours, 68
Responsible tourism, 61–64
Restaurants. See also Restaurant

Index

best, 19–21

Rhyll Inlet, 649
Ribbon Reefs (Great Barrier

Reef), 272–276
Riesling Trail, 574
Rigby Gallery & Studio (near

Wallcliffe), 500
Rippon Lea Estate (Melbourne),

630
Rivergods, 69
Riverlife Adventure Centre

(Brisbane), 256
Riversleigh Fossil Centre (Mount
Isa), 384, 385
River Walk (Brisbane), 255

R. M. Williams (Sydney), 172
Road conditions and safety,
50–52
RoadPost, 71
Road signs, 50
Road trains, 51
Robby Ingham (Sydney), 172
Rock art, 23

Kakadu National Park, 440
Wollemi National Park, 212


Rockhampton, 340–342
Rockhampton Botanic Gardens,
342
Rockingham Wild Encounters,
494
The Rocks Discovery Museum

(Sydney), 148
The Rocks Market (Sydney), 174
The Rocks Pub Tour (Sydney),

166
The Rocks (Sydney), 98

accommodations around,

115–118
restaurants, 132–136
sights and attractions, 145,

148

The Rocks Walking Tours
(Sydney), 166
Roebuck Bay, 540

Roma Street Parkland
(Brisbane), 254

Ross, 724

Ross Bridge, 724

Rothbury Estate (Pokolbin), 200

Rottnest Island, 485–488

The Roundhouse (Fremantle),
479

Royal Australian Mint (Canberra),
701

Royal Botanic Gardens
(Melbourne), 631

Royal Botanic Gardens (Sydney),
161

Royal Exchange Hotel, pub at
(Brisbane), 261

Royal Flying Doctor Base (Mount
Isa), 385

Royal Flying Doctor Service
Alice Springs, 394
Broken Hill, 231–232
Kalgoorlie-Boulder, 519

Royal National Park (near
Sydney), 163

Royal Tasmanian Botanical
Gardens (Hobart), 711

Russell Falls, 719

S

Safety, 58

Great Barrier Reef, 274

Sailing (yachting), 70. See also
Boat tours, rentals and
charters
Perth, 481
Sydney, 166
races, 169
the Whitsunday Coast and
islands, 332–333

St. Helena Island, 266

St. James Church (Sydney), 160

St. John's Anglican Cathedral
(Brisbane), 254

St. Mary's Cathedral (Sydney),
160

St. Patrick's Cathedral
(Melbourne), 630

St. Paul's Cathedral (Melbourne),
630–631

Saks (Main Beach), 372

Salitage (Pemberton), 514

Sandalford Wines (Caversham),
489

Sandbar (Sydney), 159

Savannah Guides, 61

Sawtell, 210

Saxon area, 275

Scarborough Beach, 458,
475–476

Scenic Railway (the Blue
Mountains), 187

Scenic World (the Blue
Mountains), 187–188

School of the Air, 231, 394–395,
448

Scotsdale, 510


Scuba diving
best, 9–10
Bundaberg, 346–347
Byron Bay, 214
Coffs Harbour, 209–210
courses, 66–67
courses (Queensland), 281
Exmouth, 529
Great Barrier Reef, 279–281
Perth, 481
Rottnest, 486–487
Sydney, 167

Sculpture by the Sea (Perth),
475

Sea and Vines Festival (McLaren
Vale), 579

Seagulls Rugby League Club
(Tweed Heads), 217–218

Seal Bay Conservation Park, 584

Sea lions, 591, 592

Seasons, 38

Sea turtles, 277, 347, 530

Sea World (Main Beach),
365–367

See Sydney & Beyond card, 144

Senior travel, 60

Seppeltsfield (Seppeltsfield),
572–573

Serpentine Gorge, 403

Serviced apartments, 74

75-Mile Beach (Fraser Island),
352

Shark Bay (Monkey Mia),
523–527

Sharks, 30, 156, 157, 471

Shell Beach, 526

Shelly Beach (Sydney), 158

Shipwreck Coast, 666

Shipwreck Galleries (Fremantle),
479

Shrine of Remembrance
(Melbourne), 631

Side-on cafe (Sydney), 177–178

Silvertip City (dive site), 276

Silverton, 232

Silverton Pub, 232

Simpson's Gap, 403

Sir Thomas Brisbane Planetarium
(Brisbane), 254

Six Foot Track, 185

Skiing
Falls Creek, 678–680
the High Country, 677
Hotham Snow Resort,
677–678
the Snowy Mountains,
227–228

Skycity Darwin Casino, 433

Skyrail Rainforest Cableway
(Kuranda), 290, 291

Skywalk (near Coffs Harbour),
210

Skyway (Jamison Valley), 188

Slip Inn (Sydney), 179

Small Winemakers Centre
(Pokolbin), 198

Smoking, 737

Snakes, 30
Snorkeling

best, 9–10
Exmouth, 529
Great Barrier Reef, 303
Perth, 481
Rottnest, 486–487
the Whitsunday Coast and
islands, 332–333

The Snowy Mountains, 227–229

Snowy River National Park,
675–676

Somerville Auditorium (Perth),
484

South Australia, 549–601
the Outback, 594–600

South Australian Maritime
Museum (Adelaide), 563–564

South Australian Museum
(Adelaide), 564

South Australian Whale Centre,
576

South Bank Lifestyle Market
(Brisbane), 259

South Bank Parklands
(Brisbane), 254–255

The south coast, 504–516

South Coast Wood Works
Gallery (Denmark), 511

South East Queensland Wildlife
Centre (Brisbane), 257

South Head (Sydney), 162

South Stradbroke island, 264

Southwest Australia, 493–504

Sovereign Hill (Ballarat),
662–663

Spa at Beechworth, 673

Space Theatre 3D ride (Sydney),
161

Spiders, 30

Springvale Homestead (near
Katherine), 448

Staircase to the Moon, 542

Standley Chasm, 403

Star City (Pyrmont), 180

State Library of New South
Wales (Sydney), 160

State Theatre (Melbourne), 637

Stathalbyn, 575

Station Township Riverside
Camping (El Questro), 537

STA Travel, 61

Steve's Bommie (dive site), 276

Stingers (blue bottles), 31

Stingrays, 30

The Stonewall Hotel (Sydney),
177

Story Bridge Adventure Climb
(Brisbane), 257

Story Bridge Hotel, pub at
(Brisbane), 261

Strahan, 732

Strand Arcade (Sydney), 170

The Strand (Townsville), 320–321

Stuart Tourist and Caravan Park
(Alice Springs), 398

Student travel, 60–61

Sturt National Park, 212
Subiaco Hotel (Perth), 484
Subiaco (Perth), 458

restaurants, 469

shopping, 482

Sublime Point Lookout, 191

Summer Cloud Bay, 220

Sun exposure, 57

Sun-Herald City to Surf
(Sydney), 40

Sunlover Cruises, 285, 286

Sun Pictures (Broome), 544

The Sunshine Coast, 353–361

SuperGP (Surfers Paradise), 40

Super Pass (Gold Coast theme
parks), 366

Super Pit (Kalgoorlie-Boulder),
517, 519

Surfaris, 213

Surfing, 70
Broome, 542
Byron, 214
Margaret River, 501
Perth, 481–482
Rottnest, 486–487
Sydney, 167–169

Surfworld Gold Coast
(Currumbin), 369

Susannah Place Museum
(Sydney), 148

Sustainable tourism, 61–64

Sustainable Travel International,
63

Swan Bells (Perth), 474

Swan Lake, 649

Swan River (Perth), 474

Swan Valley, 488–491

Sydney, 93–180
accommodations, 111–127
American Express, 109
arriving in, 94–96
beaches, 157–159
business hours, 109
cafes, 141
consulates, 109
currency exchange, 109
dentists, 109
doctors, 109
emergencies, 109
eyeglass repair, 109
getting around, 101, 104–108
harbor cruises, 165
hospitals, 109
hot lines, 109
Internet access, 110
layout of, 97
lost property, 110
luggage storage, 110
main arteries and streets, 97
neighborhoods in brief, 98–101
newspapers, 110
nightlife, 174–180
organized tours, 165–167
pharmacies, 110
post office, 110
restaurants, 127–144
surcharge, 132

GENERAL


GENERAL INDEX

Sydney (cont.)

restrooms, 110
safety, 110–111
shopping, 169
sights and attractions,
144–167
spectator sports, 169
taxes, 111
taxis, 96, 107–108
telephones, 111
transit information, 111
useful telephone numbers, 111
visitor information, 96–97
water taxis, 108
weather forecast, 111

Sydney, HMAS, Memorial, 524
Sydney Airporter, 96
Sydney Aquarium, 153
Sydney Aquatic Centre, 168
Sydney Attractions Pass, 144
Sydney Explorer buses, 104
Sydney Festival, 39, 175
Sydney Film Festival, 40
Sydney Fishmarket, 173
Sydney Gay & Lesbian Mardi
Gras, 39, 58–59
Sydney Harbour

sights and attractions,
145–152

Sydney Harbour Bridge, 148–149
Sydney Harbour Bridge Visitor
Centre, 149
Sydney Harbour National Park,
145, 162
Sydney International Aquatic
Centre, 154
Sydney Jewish Museum, 160
Sydney Observatory, 161
Sydney Olympic Park, 154
Sydney Opera House, 149–150,
174
SydneyPass, 101
Sydney Symphony Orchestra, 175
Sydney to Hobart Yacht Race,
40, 169
Sydney Tours-R-Us, 184
Sydney Tower (Centrepoint
Tower), 154
Sydney Tower Skywalk, 154–155
Sydney Visitor Centre at The
Rocks (Sydney), 96–97

bookings desk, 94

Sydney Visitors Centre

bookings desk, 114

Sydney Visitors Centre Darling
Harbour, 97
Sydney Wildlife World, 156

T

Tahune Airwalk (Hobart), 711–712
Tailormade Tours, 389, 410
Talia Sea Caves, 591
Tamarama (Sydney), 158
Tamborine, Mount, 373–374
Tamborine Rainforest Skywalk,
374

Tamburlaine Winery (Pokolbin),
200

Tamworth Country Music
Festival, 39

Tank (Sydney), 176

Taronga Zoo (Sydney), 156

Tasmania, 703–734
exploring, 703–704, 706
getting around, 706
seasons, 704
tour operators, 706–707

Tasmanian Devil, 29, 722

Tasmanian Expeditions, 71

Tasmanian Museum and Art
Gallery (Hobart), 712

Tassie Holiday Pass, 706

Taxes, 737–738

Taxi Club (Sydney), 177

Taylor's (Middle Swan), 491

Telephones, 72–73

Television, 33

Telstra, 73

Tennis, 168–169, 632–634, 701

TerraPass, 63

Territory Wildlife Park (Darwin),
425

Tesselaar's Bulbs and Flowers
(Silvan), 644

Thomas Cook Boot & Clothing
Company (Sydney), 172

Thomson River
cruises, 379

Thredbo, 229

Thredbo Village, 227, 228

Three Brothers (Blackheath), 192

Three Sisters, 187, 277

Ticks, 30

Tidbinbilla Nature Reserve, 700

Tilba Tilba, 226

Time zones, 738

Tinklers (Pokolbin), 200

Tipping, 738

Tiwi Island, 441

Todd Mall (Alice Springs), 392

Toilets, 739

Toll roads, 50

Tolmer Falls, 434

Tony Starr's Kitten Club
(Melbourne), 641

Topdeck, 66

The Top End, 417–448

Torquay, 665–666

Tourism Tasmania, 64, 703

Tour Tub bus (Darwin), 424

Town Hall (Sydney), 98
restaurants near, 136–137

Townsville, 311, 318–326
day trips to the Reef from,
278, 319–320
diving the Reef from, 280

Trains and railways, 52–54
The Cockle Train, 575–576
Kuranda Scenic Railway,
290–291
National Railway Museum
(Adelaide), 563

Puffing Billy Railway
(Belgrave), 645
Queensland's Outback,
382–383
road trains, 51
Scenic Railway (the Blue
Mountains), 187
West Coast Wilderness
Railway (Tasmania), 734
Zig Zag Railway (Clarence),
191

Transwa, 53

Travel CUTS, 61

Traveler's checks, 56

Traveling to Australia, 43–44

Traveling within Australia, 44–47

Travel North, 434, 446

Traveltrain Holidays, 52

Tread Lightly, 63

Treasury Casino (Brisbane),
261–262

Treasury Gardens (Melbourne),
631–632

Treetop Walk, 505, 511

Trekabout Tours, 200

Trek North Safaris, 304

Trephina Gorge Nature Park, 405

Trigg (Perth), 476

Troika (Melbourne), 641

Tropical Fruit World
(Murwillumbah), 217

Tropical illnesses, 57

Tropic Sail (Townsville), 321

Tully River, 293, 311, 312, 314

Tumby Bay, 588

Tunnel Creek, 546

Turquoise Bay, 529

Turtle Bay, 277

Turtle Bommie, 277

Twin Falls, 442–443

Twin Towns Services Club
(Tweed Heads), 217

Twofold Bay, 225

Tyrell's (Pokolbin), 200

U

Ubirr Rock, 440

Ulladulla, 221–223

Uluru-Kata Tjuta Cultural Centre,
409

Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park,
407–416

Umbarra Aboriginal Cultural
Centre (Wallaga Lake), 224

Umoona Opal Mine and Museum
(Coober Pedy), 599

Underground Books (Coober
Pedy), 599

Underwater World (Mooloolaba),
357

Upolu Cay, 277

Upper Hunter, 197

USIT, 61


V

Valley Markets (Brisbane), 259
Valley of the Giants, 509, 511
Valley of the Mist (Hundred Acre

Swamp), 209
Valley of the Waters, 192
Valley of the Winds, 412
Valley Vineyard Tourist Park

(Hunter Valley), 201
Vaucluse House (Sydney), 161
Victor Harbor, 575
Victoria, 659–684
Victoria State Rose Garden

(Werribee), 648
Victoria Winery Tours, 655–656
Vincentia, 221
Visas, 41–42, 739
Visa traveler's checks, 56
Vodafone, 71
Volunteer and working trips, 65
Voyager Estate (Margaret River),

497

W

Waddy Point, 352
Walhalla, 677
Walpole, 505, 509–513
Waltzing Matilda Centre

(Winton), 382
WA Museum Kalgoorlie-Boulder,

518–519
Wangaratta, 219
Wangi Falls, 434
Wardan Aboriginal Cultural

Centre (Yallingup), 501
Warner Bros. Movie World

(Oxenford), 368
Warning, Mount, 216, 217
Warradjan Aboriginal Cultural

Centre (Cooinda), 440
Watarrka National Park, 405
Wategos Beach, 214
Watson's Bay Hotel (Sydney),

179
Watsons Bay (Sydney), 100
Waves Surf School (Sydney), 168
Wayward Bus, 402, 554, 583
Weather, 38
Weird Canberra Ghost and

History Tour, 702
Wellness trips, 65
Wellshot Hotel (Ilfracombe), 380
Wentworth Falls, 191–192
Werribee, 648
Werribee Open Range Zoo, 648
West Australian Academy of

Performing Arts (WAAPA;
Perth), 484
West Australian Ballet (Perth),
483
West Australian Opera (Perth),
483
West Australian Symphony
Orchestra (Perth), 483

The West Coast (Tasmania),
732–734
West Coast Wilderness Railway
(Tasmania), 734
Western Australia, 449–450

exploring, 450–454

Western Australian Maritime
Museum (Fremantle), 479
Western Australian Museum

(Perth), 474
Western Xposure, 453
West Head (Sydney), 163
West Macdonnell National Park,

402–404
West MacDonnell Ranges,
402–404
Wetlands cruises

Kakadu National Park, 439

Wet 'n' Wild Water World

(Oxenford), 367
Wet Tropics, 289
Whale and Dolphin Conservation

Society, 63
Whales and whale-watching

Albany, 508
Broome, 544
Exmouth, 530
Margaret River, 501
Moreton Bay, 265
Moreton Island, 267
Perth, 480
Port Stephens, 205
South Australian Whale

Centre, 576

Whale sharks, swimming with,
522, 527

Exmouth, 529

Whale World Museum (Albany),
505, 506
Whaling

Twofold Bay, 225

Wharf Theatre (Sydney), 176
Wheelchair accessibility, 59
Wheel of Brisbane, 255
White Cliffs, 232–233
Whitehaven Beach, 333
Whitewater rafting, 70, 293, 312,

314
WhiteWater World by
Dreamworld (Oxenford), 367

The Whitsunday Coast and
islands, 327–340. See also
specific towns and islands

choosing a base, 331–332
day trips to the Reef from,

278–279
diving the Reef from, 280
exploring, 332–335
getting around, 328, 330
seasons, 332
traveling to, 327–328
visitor information, 328

Whitsundays Great Walk, 334
Whyalla, 588
Wi-Fi access, 72
Wildflowers, 452, 472

Wildlife and wildlife attractions,
28–31. See also Zoos and
animal attractions

Alice Springs Desert Park,
393
Alice Springs Reptile Centre,

393
animal-rights issues, 63
Australian Reptile Park

(Sydney), 155
best places to view, 6–8
The Billabong Koala and

Wildlife Park (Port
Macquarie), 207
Billabong Sanctuary (near
Townsville), 321
Bonorong Wildlife Park

(Hobart), 710
Booderee National Park, 220
Bruny Wildlife Adventure

(Hobart), 712
Cairns Wildlife Dome, 287
Caversham Wildlife Park,

489–490
Cleland Wildlife Park, 570
Cohunu Koala Park (Perth),

471–472
Crocodylus Park & Zoo
(Darwin), 425
Crocosaurus Cove (Darwin),
427
Featherdale Wildlife Park

(Sydney), 155
the Gold Coast, 368–369
Healesville Sanctuary, 646
health concerns, 57
Kangaroo Island, 584
Koala Park Sanctuary

(Sydney), 155–156

Malcolm Douglas Wilderness
Wildlife Park (near
Broome), 543

Moonlit Sanctuary

(Pearcedale), 654
passes, 288
Pentland Alpaca Tourist

Farm, 510
Rainforest Habitat (near Port

Douglas), 305
as road hazard, 50–51
Sydney Wildlife World, 156
Territory Wildlife Park

(Darwin), 425
threats to wildlife, 31
Tidbinbilla Nature Reserve,

700

Wildlife + Tower Pass (Sydney),
144
William Ricketts Sanctuary (Mt.
Dandenong), 644–645
Willie Creek Pearl Farm (near

Broome), 543
Willunga, 575
Wilsons Promontory, 682
Windjana Gorge, 546
Wine & Truffle Company

(Pemberton), 514

GENERAL


ACCOMMODATIONS INDEX

Wineglass Bay Lookout, 723
Wineries and vineyards. See also
specific wineries

the Barossa, 572–573
Hunter Valley, 198–200
Margaret River, 496–498
Perth area, 489
Victoria Winery Tours,

655–656

Wines, 36
Wine tours, 64–65
Winton, 380–383
Wolf Blass (Nuriootpa), 573
Wollemi National Park, 212
Wombats, 29
Wonderbus, 184
Wonga Beach Equestrian Centre

(Port Douglas), 306
Woodbridge House (West

Midland), 490
Woodside, 568
Woolmers Estate (Launceston),

726, 728
Woongarra Marine Park

(Bundaberg), 279, 346
Wooronooran National Park, 314
World Expeditions, 65, 71
The World of Opal (Darwin), 427
World Outdoors, 71
World War II oil storage tunnels

(Darwin), 426
World Wildlife Fund (WWF)
Australia, 65
Wyndham, 535

Y

Yalumba (Angaston), 573
Yanchep National Park (Perth),

475
Yarra Valley, 645–647
Yellow Water Billabong, 439
Yellow Water Taxis (Sydney), 165
Yididi Aboriginal Guided Tours,

384
Yongala, SS (wreck dive), 278
Young & Jackson (Melbourne),

642
Youth Challenge Australia, 65

Z

Zenbar (Brisbane), 262
Zig Zag Railway (Clarence), 191
Zimmerman (Sydney), 172
Zoos and animal attractions. See

also Wildlife and wildlife
attractions


Australia Zoo (Beerwah),

357–358
Cairns Tropical Zoo, 287
Melbourne Zoo, 628
National Zoo and Aquarium

(Canberra), 699
Perth Zoo, 473–474, 483
Taronga Zoo (Sydney), 156
Werribee Open Range Zoo, 648

Accommodations

Abaleigh on Lovers Walk (Phillip
Island), 650

Abena's (Ballarat), 663

Adelaide City Park Motel, 559

Adelphi Hotel (Melbourne), 610,
612

Airlie Beach Hotel, 335

Albert Heights Serviced
Apartments (Melbourne),
614–615

Albert Park Motor Inn
(Longreach), 380

Alice on Todd (Alice Springs),
399

Alice Springs Resort, 399

Alinga-Longa Holiday Units
(Bright), 674

Alishan International Guest
House (Sydney), 124

All Seasons Kingsgate Hotel
(Melbourne), 614

All Seasons Mount Isa Verona
Hotel, 385

Annie's Place (Alice Springs),
398

Apartment 61A (Kyneton), 656

Arkaba Station, 596–597

Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary,
597

Arts Factory Lodge (Byron Bay),
214

Athelstane House (Queenscliff),
652

Aurora Alice Springs, 400

Aurora Kakadu (Kakadu National
Park), 443

Aurora Ozone Hotel (Kingscote),
587

Avocado Grove Bed & Breakfast
(Flaxton), 360–361

Ayers Rock Campground
(Yulara), 416

Ayers Rock Resort, 413–414

Aynsley B&B (Brisbane), 248

The Backpacker's Inn at
Radeka's Downunder Motel
(Coober Pedy), 599–600

Balcony Restaurant (Kalgoorlie),
521

Bamurru Plains (Humpty Doo),
443–444

Bayside Villas (Walpole), 512

Bedarra Island, 317–318

Best Western Broken Hill Oasis
Motor Inn, 233

Best Western Elkira Resort Motel
(Alice Springs), 400

Big Brook Retreat (Pemberton),
514

Billabong Gardens (Sydney), 124

Binna Burra Mountain Lodge
(Beechmont), 376

Black Opal Holiday Units
(Lightning Ridge), 235

Blue Monkey Restaurant
(Kalgoorlie), 521

The Boathouse at Birks Harbour
(Goolwa), 578

Bond Springs Outback Retreat
(Alice Springs), 399

Boroka Downs (Hall's Gap), 681

Boulder Opal Motor Inn
(Winton), 382–383

The Brassey of Canberra,
692–693

Brisbane Portal Hotel (Brisbane),
248

Bungalow Bay Koala Village
(Magnetic Island), 325

The Byron at Byron Resort &
Spa, 215

The Byron Bay Waves Motel (The
Waves), 215

Byron Central Apartments
(Byron Bay), 215

Cable Beach Club Resort & Spa
Broome, 544–545

Cairns Plaza Hotel, 295

Campaspe Country House
(Bellarine Peninsula)
(Woodend), 656

Cape Lodge (Yallingup),
501–502

Caribbean Motel (Coffs
Harbour), 211

The Carriages Country House
(Pokolbin), 202

The Carrington Hotel
(Katoomba), 189

Casuarina Estate (Pokolbin), 203

Central City Backpackers
(Hobart), 716

Cessnock Heritage Inn, 201

Chris's Beacon Point Villas
(Apollo Bay), 668

Cladich Pavilions (Aldgate),
567–568

The Cobb & Co Court Boutique
Hotel (Mudgee), 196

Collingrove Homestead
(Angaston), 573

The Como Melbourne, 616–617

Coorong Wilderness Lodge, 601

Coral Sea Resort (Airlie Beach),
335–336

Coral Tree Inn (Cairns), 295–296

Cotterville (Melbourne), 617–618

Couran Cove Island Resort
(South Stradbroke Island), 266

Cradle Mountain Lodge, 732

Craig's Royal Hotel (Ballarat),
663

Creekside Inn B&B (Sawtell), 210

Crowne Plaza Canberra, 691

Crown Towers (Melbourne), 612

Crystal Creek Rainforest Retreat
(Murwillumbah), 217

The Cullen (Melbourne), 613

Cumberland Lorne Conference &
Leisure Resort (Lorne),
667–668


Customs House Hotel (Hobart),

715
Daintree Eco Lodge & Spa, 309
Danny's Restaurant (Kalgoorlie),

522
Daydream Island Resort,

336–337
Dee's Villa (Carrickalinga), 578
The Desert Cave Hotel, 600
Desert Gardens Hotel (Yulara),

414–415
Desert Palms Resort (Alice
Springs), 400
Design Centre Tasmania

(Launceston), 726
DeVere Hotel (Sydney), 122
Diamant Hotel (Canberra),

691–692
Dog Rock Motel (Albany), 508
Dunk Island, 316–317
Echoes Boutique Hotel &

Restaurant, Blue Mountains
(Katoomba), 188
Echo Point Holiday Villas
(Katoomba), 189
Echuca Gardens B&B and YHA,

673
The Elandra (Mission Beach), 316
Ellis Beach Oceanfront

Bungalows (Cairns), 297
El Paso Motor Inn (Port
Macquarie), 208
El Questro Homestead
(Kununurra), 538
Emaroo Cottages (Broken Hill),

233
Emma Gorge Resort, 538
Emporium Hotel (Brisbane), 243,

246
Emu Walk Apartments (Yulara),

415
Esplanade Hotel Fremantle, 465
The Esplanade Motor Inn

(Batemans Bay), 223
Establishment Hotel (Sydney),

118–119
Eton (Brisbane), 247
Fothergills of Fremantle,

465–466
Fountain Terrace (Melbourne),

615–616
Four Seasons Hotel Sydney, 115
Freycinet Lodge, 724–725
Gagudju Crocodile Holiday Inn

(Jabiru), 444
Gagudju Lodge Cooinda (Jim
Jim), 444
Georgian Court Guest House

(Melbourne), 615
Glengarry Hilton, 235
Glen Helen Resort, 403
Glen Isla House (Phillip Island),

650
Goodearth Hotel (Perth), 463
Gordon Gateway Chalets

(Strahan), 734
Grand Hotel Melbourne, 612

Grandis Cottages (Henley
Brook), 490
Great Keppel Island Holiday
Village, 343–344
Great Ocean Road Backpackers
(Ballarat), 668
Great Ocean Road Cottages

(Lorne), 668
Green Gables (Tilba Tilba), 226
Green Island Resort, 298
Hamilton Island, 337–338
The Hatton (Melbourne), 618
Hayman, 338
Healesville Hotel, 646
The Henry Jones Art Hotel

(Hobart), 713
Heritage Trail Lodge (Margaret
River), 502
Hermitage Lodge (Pokolbin),

203
Heron Island Resort, 345–346
Hilton Adelaide, 557–558
Holiday Inn Townsville, 321–322
Holmwood Guesthouse (Phillip

Island), 650–651
Hook Island Wilderness Resort,

339–340
The Hotel Cairns, 295
Hotel Claremont (Melbourne),

618
Hotel George Williams

(Brisbane), 247
Hotel Ibis Brisbane, 247–248
Hotel Ibis Melbourne, 614
Hotel Lindrum (Melbourne), 612
Hotel Realm (Canberra), 692
Hotel Rendezvous Observation

City Perth, 464–465
Hotel Rottnest, 488
Hotel 59 (Sydney), 122
Hotel Tolarno (Melbourne), 616
Hunter Valley Bed & Breakfast

(North Rothbury), 203
Huskisson Beach Tourist Resort

(Jervis Bay), 221
Hyatt Hotel Canberra, 691
Hyatt Regency Coolum (Coolum

Beach), 359–360
InterContinental Adelaide, 558
InterContinental Burswood

Hotel, 464
The Islington (Hobart), 714
Jemby-Rinjah Lodge

(Blackheath), 192–193
Jenolan Cabins, 193
Jenolan Caves House, 194
Jervis Bay Guest House, 221
Kangaroo Island YHA, 586
Karbeethong Lodge

(Mallacoota), 683–684
Karma Chalets (near Denmark),

512
Katoomba YHA Hostel, 190
The Kelso Hotel, 195
Kimberley Grande (Kununurra),

538
Kingfisher Bay Resort, 352–353

Kings Canyon Resort (Watarrka
National Park), 407

Kingsley Place (Ballarat), 663

The Kirketon (Sydney), 122

Knotts Crossing Resort
(Katherine), 448

Kununurra Country Club Resort,
538–539

Lady Elliot Island Eco Resort,
348–349

The Lake House (Daylesford),
658

Larcombe's Bar & Grill
(Kalgoorlie), 522

Lightning Ridge Hotel/Motel,
235

Lilianfels Blue Mountains
(Katoomba), 189

Lilybank Bed & Breakfast
(Cairns), 296

The Limes Hotel (Brisbane), 246

Lizard Island, 298–299
The Lodge on Elizabeth
(Hobart), 715–716

Longitude 131° (Yulara), 414

The Lord Nelson Brewery Hotel
(Sydney), 118

The Lost Camel (Yulara), 415

The Louise (Marananga), 574

McAlpine House (Broome), 545

Macka's Farm Lodge
(Princetown), 668

Mackays (Mission Beach), 316

Macquarie Manor (Hobart), 714

Mangrove Resort Hotel
(Broome), 545

Manly Backpackers Beachside
(Sydney), 126

Manly Paradise Motel and Beach
Plaza Apartments (Sydney),
126

The Manna of Hahndorf, 568

Mantra on the Esplanade
(Darwin), 428

Marae (Shannonvale), 308

Martinique Whitsunday Resort
(Airlie Beach), 336

Medina Executive Barrack Plaza
(Perth), 462

Medina Executive James Court
(Canberra), 692

Medina Grand, Harbourside
(Sydney), 121

Medina Grand Adelaide Treasury
(Adelaide), 558

Medina Grand Darwin
Waterfront, 428

Melba Lodge (Yarra Glen),
646–647

The Mercure Grosvenor Hotel
(Adelaide), 558

Miss Maud Swedish Hotel
(Perth), 463

The MONA Pavilions
(Berriedale), 714

Monkey Mia Dolphin Resort,
526–527

ACCOMMODATIONS INDEX


ACCOMMODATIONS INDEX

Moonshadow Villas (Darwin),
429
Moore's Brecknock Hotel
(Adelaide), 559
Mt. Baw Baw Alpine Resort

(Walhalla), 677
Mungo Lodge, 671
New Norcia Hotel, 492–493
Ningaloo Reef Resort (Coral

Bay), 531
Noah's (Sydney), 125
Noosa Village Motel, 360
Norman House (Albany), 508
North Adelaide Heritage Group,

559–560
Novotel Brisbane, 247
Novotel Cairns Oasis Resort, 294
Novotel Ningaloo Resort

(Exmouth), 530
Novotel Sydney Manly Pacific
Hotel, 126
Novotel Vines Resort (Swan

Valley), 490
The Nunnery (Melbourne), 615
Observatory Hotel (Sydney), 115
Ocean View Motor Inn

(Merimbula), 227
Olembia Guesthouse

(Melbourne), 616
The Olsen (Melbourne), 613
One Thornbury (Brisbane), 248
O'Reilly's Rainforest Retreat

(Lamington National Park),

376–377
Ormiston House (Strahan), 734
Orpheus Island Resort, 326–327
Outback Pioneer Hotel and

Lodge (Yulara), 415–416
Palace Hotel (Kalgoorlie), 521
Palazzo Versace (Main Beach),

369–370
Paradise Bay Eco Escape,
338–339
Paradise Resort Gold Coast

(Surfers Paradise), 370–371
Park Hyatt Sydney, 115–116
Park Regis Sydney, 119–120
Parmelia Hilton Hotel (Perth),

462
Peppers Anchorage Port
Stephens, 205
Peppers Beach Club & Spa
(Cairns), 297
Peppers Blue on Blue (Magnetic
Island), 325–326
Peppers Convent Hunter Valley
(Pokolbin), 201
Peppers Guest House (Pokolbin),

201–202
Peppers Palm Bay, 339
Peppers Seaport Hotel

(Launceston), 728
Periwinkle-Manly Cove

Guesthouse (Sydney), 126–127
Poltalloch, 601
Port Douglas Peninsula Boutique

Hotel, 307

Port Douglas Retreat, 307–308
Port Lincoln Hotel, 592–593
Port O'Call Eco Lodge (Port

Douglas), 308
The Portsea Hotel, 654
Port Stephens Motor Lodge, 206
Prairie Hotel (Parachilna), 597
The Priory Country Lodge

(Bothwell), 718
Pullman Reef Hotel Casino
(Cairns), 294
Q1 Resort & Spa (Surfers

Paradise), 371
Quality Hotel Mildura Grand, 672
Quality Inn City Centre (Coffs

Harbour), 211
Quality Suites Clifton on
Northbourne (Canberra), 693
Quamby Estate (Launceston),

728
Quay Grand Suites Sydney, 116
Quay West Suites Brisbane, 246
RACV Inverloch Resort, 684
Radisson Plaza Hotel Sydney, 119
Railway Square YHA (Sydney),

120
Ravesi's on Bondi Beach
(Sydney), 125
Redgate Beach Escape (near
Margaret River), 502
The Reef Retreat (Cairns),
297–298
Rendezvous Hotel The Rocks

(Sydney), 117
The Richardson (Perth), 461–462
Riverside Cabins (Thredbo), 229
Robinsons in the City

(Melbourne), 614
Rockford Adelaide, 558–559
The Rocks Albany, 508
Rottnest Lodge, 488
Royal Mail Hotel & Bluestone

Cottages, 681–682
The Russell (Sydney), 117
Rydges Capricorn Resort

(Yeppoon), 342
Rydges Esplanade Resort Cairns,

294–295
Rydges Gladstone, 344
Rydges Kalgoorlie, 521
Sails in the Desert (Yulara), 414
Salamanca Inn (Hobart), 714–715
Salamander Shores (Soldiers

Point), 206
Salitage Suites (Pemberton), 515
Sal Salis (Cape Range), 530–531
Saltimbocca Restaurant

(Kalgoorlie), 522
Sanctuary House Resort Motel
(Healesville), 647
Sanctuary Motor Inn Resort
(Coffs Harbour), 211
Seagulls Resort (Belgian

Gardens), 322
By the Sea (Port Douglas), 307
Seashells Resort (Broome), 545

Seashells Resort Yallingup,
502–503
The Sebel Pier One Sydney,
117–118
The Sebel Reef House & Spa
(Cairns), 296–297
The Sebel Residence East Perth,
463
Shangri-La Hotel, The Marina

(Cairns), 294
Shangri-La Hotel Sydney, 116
Shearers Quarters, 671–672
Sheraton Mirage Port Douglas,

306–307
Sheraton Noosa Resort & Spa,
360
Silky Oaks Lodge & Healing
Waters Spa (Mossman), 309
Sir Stamford at Circular Quay

(Sydney), 116–117
Skycity Darwin, 428–429
Sofitel Werribee Park Mansion

Hotel & Spa, 648
Sonja's Bed and Breakfast
(Lightning Ridge), 235
Southern Ocean Lodge
(Kangaroo Island), 586
Sovereign Hill Lodge (Ballarat),

664
Stamford Plaza Brisbane, 246
Stamford Sydney Airport, 127
Star City Hotel (Sydney), 121
Station Township Bungalows,

538
Stewarts Bay Lodge (Port

Arthur), 722–723
Stonebarn (Pemberton), 515
Stone Cottage (Beechworth),

673
Strahan Village, 734
Streaky Bay Hotel Motel, 593
Sullivans Hotel (Perth), 464
Sullivans Hotel (Sydney), 123
Summit Ridge Alpine Lodge

(Falls Creek), 679–680
Sun City Motel (North
Bundaberg), 348
Surfside Backpackers (Sydney),

125
Swiss-Grand Hotel (Sydney), 125
Sydney Central YHA, 120
Sydney Harbour Marriott, 119
Sydney Harbour-The Rocks YHA,

118
Tamborine Mountain Bed &
Breakfast (Eagle Heights), 374
Tangalooma Wild Dolphin Resort
(Moreton Island), 267
Tanonga Luxury Eco-Lodges
(near Port Lincoln), 593
Thala Beach Lodge (near Port

Douglas), 309–310
Thredbo Alpine Apartments, 229
Thredbo Alpine Hotel, 229
Tower Lodge (Pokolbin), 202
Travelodge Hotel Sydney, 120


Travelodge Mirambeena Resort
(Darwin), 429

Tree-Elle Retreat (Denmark), 512

Tricketts Luxury Bed & Breakfast
(Sydney), 124–125

Tumby Bay Hotel Seafront
Apartments, 593

Ulladulla Guest House, 222–223

Underground Motel (White
Cliffs), 233

Value Inn (Darwin), 430–431

Vibe Hotel Darwin Waterfront,
430

Vibe Hotel Rushcutters Bay
(Sydney), 123

Vibe Hotel Sydney, 123

Vibe North Sydney, 123

Victoria Court Sydney, 123

Victor Lodge (Canberra), 693

Villa Gusto (Buckland), 674

Waldheim Cabins (Launceston),
732

Waldorf Apartment Hotel
(Canberra), 692

The Wallangulla Motel (Lightning
Ridge), 235

Waratah on York (Launceston),
728

Wattle Private Hotel (Sydney),
123–124

Westin Sydney, 119

Whale Motor Inn (Narooma), 225

Wilderness Retreats (Tidal
River), 684

Willunga House Bed & Breakfast,
578

Wilpena Pound Resort, 597–598

The Windsor (Melbourne), 613

Wool Brokers Arms (Sydney), 121

Wrest Point (Hobart), 715

Zero Davey (Hobart), 715

Restaurants

Abell's Kopi Tiam (Canberra),
695

Alto (Canberra), 693

Aria (Sydney), 132

Ashiana (Sydney), 143

Athelstane House (Queenscliff),
653

Babka Bakery (Melbourne), 624

Bamboo House (Melbourne), 621

Bar Coluzzi (Sydney), 141

Bar Doppio (Alice Springs), 402

Barra on Todd (Alice Springs),
400–402

Batemans Bay Soldiers' Club,
223

Becco (Melbourne), 621

Beyond India (Adelaide), 562

Bill's (Sydney), 141

Bilsons (Sydney), 136

Bistro C (Noosa Heads), 361

The Blue Duck (Perth), 469

Blue Wren Restaurant (Mudgee),
196
The Boathouse on Blackwattle
Bay (Sydney), 140
Botanic Cafe (Adelaide), 560
Botanic Gardens Restaurant
(Sydney), 130–131
Breakfast Creek Hotel (Albion),
251
Bridgewater Mill (Adelaide), 568
Brunetti (Melbourne), 623
Buena Vista Cafe (Sydney), 137
Buon Ricordo (Sydney), 140
Buzz Cafe (Darwin), 431
Cafe Enzo (Pokolbin), 203–204
Cafe Hernandez (Sydney), 141
Cafe Segovia (Melbourne), 622
Calamari's at Beachside
(Albany), 508–509
Capitan Torres (Sydney), 137
The Capri (Fremantle), 470
C Bar (Townsville), 323
Ceduna Oyster Bar, 593
The Chairman and Yip
(Canberra), 694
Chesters (Henley Brook),
490–491
Chinta Blues (Melbourne), 624
Chinta Ria (Sydney), 138
Chocolate Buddha (Melbourne),
621
Chork Dee Thai Restaurant
(Katoomba), 190
Cicciolina (Melbourne), 624
Cicerello's (Fremantle), 470
City Extra (Sydney), 131
Colonies (Palm Cove), 299–300
Conservation Hut Cafe
(Wentworth Falls), 192
Cream Cafe (Canberra), 695
Croplines Coffee Bar
(Launceston), 730
Crying Tiger (Coffs Harbour), 211
Cullen Wines (Cowaramup), 503
Cumquat on Criterion (Hobart),
717–718
Debacle (Canberra), 696
Denmark Bakery (Denmark), 512
Dish (Byron Bay), 215–216
DOME (Perth), 466
Donovans (Melbourne), 624
Doyles at the Quay (Sydney), 133
Drunken Admiral Restaurant
(Hobart), 717
e'cco bistro (Brisbane), 249
Eclectic Tastes (Ballarat), 664
Elephant Bean (Katoomba), 190
Elephant Rock Cafe (Currumbin),
371–372
est. at Establishment Hotel
(Sydney), 136
The Essex (Fremantle), 470
Far Horizons (Palm Cove), 300
Fast Eddy's Cafe (Perth), 468
Fino (Willunga), 579
Fins (Byron Bay), 216

Fish at the Rocks (Sydney),
133–134

Flathead Fish Cafe (Hobart), 717

Flower Drum (Melbourne), 618,
620

Foreshore's Cafe (Coffs
Harbour), 211

44 King Street, 467

Forty One (Sydney), 127, 130

Fraser's (Perth), 466

Fresh Espresso and Food Bar
(Katoomba), 190

Friends Restaurant (Mission
Beach), 318

G'Day Cafe (Sydney), 135

Gianni's (Brisbane), 249

The Ginger Room (Canberra),
694

Govinda's (Brisbane), 250

Govindas (Sydney), 139–140

Green Papaya (Brisbane), 251

Greenpool Restaurant
(Denmark), 512–513

Grossi Florentino (Melbourne),
620

Guillaume at Bennelong
(Sydney), 130

The Gumnut Teagardens
(Sydney), 135

Hanuman (Darwin), 431

Hard Rock Cafe (Sydney), 139

At the Heads (Bellarine
Peninsula) (Barwon Heads),
653

Hopetoun Tearooms
(Melbourne), 622–623

Icebergs Dining Room & Bar
(Sydney), 142

Il Bacaro (Melbourne), 621

Il Piatto (Darwin), 431

Il Solito Posto (Melbourne), 621

I'm Angus Steakhouse (Sydney),
138

Imperial Peking Harbourside
(Sydney), 134–135

Italian Village (Sydney), 134

Jackson's (Perth), 466–467

Jo Jo's (Brisbane), 250

Jolleys Boathouse Restaurant
(Adelaide), 560

Katoomba Street, 190

Koko (Melbourne), 620

Lamont's East Perth, 467

Lamont Winery Cellar Door, 491

Lavender Cottage (Albany), 509

Le Kilimanjaro (Sydney), 140–141

Lentil as Anything (Melbourne),
625

Lightning Ridge Bowling Club
(Lightning Ridge), 235

Little Creatures (Fremantle),
470–471

The Loose Box (Perth), 471

Love at First Bite Cafe (Tilba
Tilba), 226

The Lowenbrau Keller (Sydney),
135

RESTAURANT


RESTAURANT INDEX

Mangrove Jack's Cafe Bar (Airlie

Beach), 336
Mario's (Melbourne), 623
Marks Restaurant (Lorne), 669
Matsuri (Adelaide), 560–561
maze Melbourne, 620
Mecca Bah (Melbourne),

624–625
Mekong Thai (Adelaide), 561
Mesa Lunga (Adelaide), 561
Mezzaluna (Sydney), 139
Michel's Cafe and Bar

(Townsville), 323
Milk and Honey (Canberra), 695
Miss Maud Swedish Restaurant

(Perth), 467–468
Mocean Cafe (Streaky Bay), 594
MoVida (Melbourne), 622
Must Margaret River, 503
Must Winebar (Perth), 467
Nautilus (Port Douglas), 310
Newtown House (Vasse), 503
Nick's Bar & Grill Bondi Beach

(Sydney), 138
Nick's Bar & Grill (Sydney), 138
Nick's Seafood Restaurant

(Sydney), 138
Nina's Ploy Thai Restaurant
(Sydney), 143
Nobbies Restaurant (Lightning
Ridge), 235
Nornalup Teahouse Restaurant,

513
Nudel Bar (Melbourne), 622
Ochre Restaurant (Cairns), 299
Old Coffee Shop (Sydney), 141
Old Saigon (Sydney), 142
Olivo (Byron Bay), 216
Organic Market (Adelaide), 568
Oscar's (Ballarat), 664
Osman's (Townsville), 323
Otto Ristorante (Sydney), 139
Out of Africa (Sydney), 143–144
The Oysterbeds (Coffin Bay),

594
Paragon Cafe (Katoomba),
190–191
Pee Wee's at The Point (Darwin),

431–432
Peppermint Bay (Hobart), 717
Perrotta's at the Gallery (Cairns),

299
Phillip's Foote (Sydney), 134

Pier Hotel (Port Lincoln), 594
Pizza Verde (Kyneton), 656–657
Podfood (Canberra), 695
Pompei's (Sydney), 143
Portia's Place (Canberra), 695
Port O'Call Bistro (Port Douglas),

310
Quay (Sydney), 132–133
Rae's on Watego's (Byron Bay),

216
Ravesi's (Sydney), 142
Rigoni's Bistro (Adelaide), 561
Ristorante Fellini (Main Beach),

372
Robert's Restaurant (Pokolbin),
204
Rock Lobster Restaurant (Nelson
Bay), 206
Rockpool Bar and Grill (Sydney),

133
Rockpool (Sydney), 133
The Roma Bar (Darwin),

432–433
Romany Restaurant (Perth),

468–469
Rossini (Sydney), 131–132
Russell's (Willunga), 579
Sailors Thai (Sydney), 134
Salopian Inn (Willunga), 579
Salsa Bar & Grill (Port Douglas),

310
Sammy's Kitchen (Canberra),

696
Sarin's (Port Lincoln), 594
Season (Noosa Heads), 361
Shakahari (Melbourne), 623
Shamrock Restaurant

(Pemberton), 515
Shenannigan's (Darwin), 432
Sheni's Curries (Melbourne), 623
Simone's of Bright, 674
Smolt (Hobart), 716
Solitary (Leura), 191
The Source (Hobart), 717
Spirit House (Yandina), 361
Star Anise Bistro (Kyneton), 657
Star Anise (Perth), 469
Stillwater River Cafe

(Launceston), 730
Stockmarket Cafe (Katoomba),

190
Summit (Mount Lofty), 570
The Summit (Mt. Coot-tha),

250–251

Sundeck Cafe (Sydney), 142
Supper Inn (Melbourne), 623
Supreeya's Thai Restaurant

(Ulladulla), 222
Sydney Cove Oyster Bar
(Sydney), 131
Tanglehead Brewing Company

(Albany), 509
Tetsuya's (Sydney), 136–137
Thai Terrific (Sydney), 143
Tim's Surf 'n' Turf (Darwin), 433
Tjanabi @ Fed Square

(Melbourne), 622
Tognini's BistroCafeDeli
(Brisbane), 250
Tom & Mary's Greek Taverna

(Coober Pedy), 600
TrisElies (Katoomba), 190
Ulladulla Guest House

(Ulladulla), 222
Uncle Billy's (Perth), 468
Vasse Felix (Cowaramup),

503–504
Venice Pizza Bar & Restaurant
(Albany), 509
The Victoria Hotel (Ballarat)
(Port Fairy), 669
Vintners Bar & Grill (Angaston),
574
Voyager Estate (Margaret River),
504
Waterfront Restaurant (Sydney),

134–135
Waters Edge (Canberra), 694
Watershed Wines (Margaret

River), 504
Watt Modern Dining (Brisbane),

249–250
Wellington Hotel (Adelaide), 562
Wild Duck (Albany), 509
Wild Harvest Seafood Restaurant

and Cafe (Coffs Harbour), 211
Wild Lime Cafe, 598
Wild Oak (Olinda), 645
The Wine & Truffle Company

(Pemberton), 515–516
Wineglass Bar & Grill (Mudgee),

196
Witch's Cauldron (Perth), 469
Wolfie's Grill (Sydney), 134
Yoshii (Sydney), 133
Zaaffran (Sydney), 138
Zia Pina (Sydney), 135–136


Cape Range Nat'l Park
Kalbarri Nat'l Park
Purnululu
Nat'l Park
Flinders Chase
Nat'l Park
Flinders Ranges
Nullarbor Nat'l Park
Nat'l Park
Kakadu
Nat'l Park
Great Barrier Reef
Tropic of Capricorn Tropic of Capricorn
C. Leeuwin
C. Naturaliste
Dirk Hartog I.
Archipelago of
the Recherche
Melville I. Cobourg Pen.
Gove Pen.
Groote
Eylandt
Fraser I.
Whitsunday I.
Great Palm I.
Great Keppel I.
Lord Howe I.
King I. Flinders I.
Great Ba r ri e r Ree f
Kangaroo
Island
SOUTH
AUSTRALIA
WESTERN
AUSTRALIA
NORTHERN
TERRITORY
VICTORIA
NEW SOUTH WALES
QUEENSLAND
TASMANIA
Gulf of
Carpentaria
Great
Australian
Bight
Tasman Sea
Timor Sea
Coral
Sea
Joseph
Bass
Strait
Spencer
Gulf
L. Eyre
L. Mackay
L. Barlee
Canberra
Brisbane
Coober Pedy
Mt. Gambier
Marree
Port Augusta
Woomera
Launceston
Wodonga
Albury
Geelong
Bendigo
Mildura
Broken Hill Tamworth
Wilcannia
Bourke
Wollongong
Dubbo
Newcastle
Wagga
Wagga
Port Macquarie
Lismore
Mackay
Townsville
Port Douglas
Cairns
Cooktown
Mount
Isa
Katherine
Wyndham
Tennant
Creek
Alice
Springs
Onslow
Newman
Port Hedland
Crossing
Fremantle
GIBSON
DESERT
GREAT
VICTORIA
DESERT
GREAT
SANDY
DESERT
TANAMI
DESERT
SIMPSON
DESERT
Arnhem
Land
Barkly
Tableland
Kimberley
Plateau
Hamersley
Range
Cape
York
Peninsula
Great Dividing R ange
Nullarbor
Plain
Channel
Country
GREAT
BASIN
Darling
Downs
Ayers Rock
(Uluru)
Mt. Olga
(Kata Tjuta)
Mt. Kosciusko
INDIAN
OCEAN
PACIFIC
Marine Park
C. Leveque
C. Wessel C. York
C. Melville
C. Byron
C. Howe
South East Pt.
C. Otway
Buccaneer
Arch.
Bonaparte
Arch.
Bathurst I.
OCEAN
INDIAN
OCEAN
Bonaparte
Gulf
L. Torrens
Peninsula
SYDNEY
MELBOURNE
Adelaide
Perth
Darwin
Hobart
Port Lincoln
Bundaberg
Maryborough
Rockhampton
Birdsville
Broome
Derby
Fitzroy
Exmouth
Denham
Carnarvon
Mount
Magnet
Geraldton
Kalgoorlie
Coolgardie
Margaret River
Albany
Esperance
Thursday
Island
Normanton
Devonport
0 200 km
0 200 mi
National Capital
State Capital
S
N
W E
Australia
1
32
20
87
1
8
66
78
1
1
95
1
94
1
1
66
1
66
71
32
31
54
1
32
39
75
41
71
71
17
1
42
87
1

The Remarkable Rocks are a good jumping off point for your
visit to Flinders Chase National Park. See chapter 12.
The Remarkable Rocks are a good jumping off point for your
visit to Flinders Chase National Park. See chapter 12.
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